The only problem I don't like with red arc is there greenpower priority feature so whenever you are driving if there is solar available it will pick the solar over the alternator to charge your auxiliary battery where is other DC brand battery chargers choose alternator charging first
I had a setup almost identical to yours. LC200, Projecta 25A DCDC, Lead Acid Deep Cycle, 200w solar, all under bonnet with the car not running everyday. Ran for 4 years with no issues runnnig a 80L Fridge Freezer. Ran the battery low a couple of times but always kept the fridge cold. I did measure the output with a shunt though. I dont think the installation is the issue with your setup but it should not run the battery that low. I have changed to a rear mounted Lithium with Victron Orion DCDC and a 2000w inverter which also means there is much less voltage drop than runnning cable from under the bonnet to the rear of the car. I think that DCDC chanrgers can and do work but just not in all situations.
It works and the solar charge is the battery automatically. Everything works as it should other than the software been correct and not inputting the correct charge when required at times like this one. It runs the battery low each day to about 12.2 V on average I am asking a lot from this battery running to fridges but they only total 50 L. I don’t mind that I just want the charger to do what it should do when the car is being driven and charge at over 14 V for hours not one hour is the example given which a lot of people don’t seem to get that that is not good but it will do the job and unless people monitor their systems closely they might not notice that this is what is happening perhaps to some of them perhaps to all of them I don’t know that I just know one experience that is not acceptable Far is DC DC charging goes
I must be the lucky one. 2 years down the track, my DCDC charger the same as yours runs my 47l chest fridge a treat, day in and day out. Can sit from Friday night till Sunday , still going fine. Have yet to have needed to plug my 200w Solar blanket in to support it.
Yes, this battery can do that also and it can do it without a DC DC charger if it was running a 47 L fridge that would be a cf50 I have a fair bit of experience with those. They are not very cold battery lasts for days. 🤣🤣🤣 waeco Swedish for hot beer.
Hi Ant, I run a mid range lithium battery in the back of Prado 150 and a well known brand dc dc charger reliabily for the last 4 years. However recently failed on an extended trip. I bypassed it to connect straight to alternator. No problem, except charging from about 80% to 100% takes a bit longer - so yes you don’t NEED a dcdc charger - but what yours is doing got be a fault, ring Redarc to see if they can do some troubleshooting with you. Cheers
Thanks for the advice, but I won’t bother calling them It works OK sometimes it’s intermittent. It’s just software related people can’t program things to work. Ideally and of course as I made the point in the video it’s just not required and in real world testing using this battery before this charger was installed and then using the fridges, we had just the same or better results as far as charging goes based on How long the battery lasts running the fridges so conclusion waste of mine and it’s not needed because it worked without it that’s why it’s not really hope you get my drift
No I might do videos when I’m on holidays but I don’t call customer service Quality products shouldn’t have problems It’s not my job to spend the time for solutions I’m not the only one that this would happen to me if people monitored , there’s more closely They might say the same thing, and I believe Robot should have media people scanning the Internet for this information Then they can contact me if they were to be organized and care 🤷♂️🤣😉🙏✌️
Mate I have the same problem with the redarc giving to much to solar on low voltage 🤔 and not enough from the alternator just thinking about a switch to turn the solar panels off 🤔
My friend, I just subscribed to your TH-cam channel- their are so many plenty keyboard warriors and clowns that know it all, are just gum nuts only you know how your system is set up. Thanks for showing your set up 👍
Its reasonable to question cable size. Many issues arise with dcdc chargers come from under voltage and manerfacturers often recommend the incorrect size. Unfortunate that ypure having issues with yours.
It might be reasonable if the information was not already available there is extensive information available on the set up in the playlist fridge Battery Solar Did the video not show the engine day and set up in the video the whole time where you could say big fat wires and high quality connections. Yeah I get it some people don’t know that’s how I roll high quality.🤣🤣🤣 Everything is a one You just don’t need a DC DC charger for this set up is the whole point no questions need to be asked to be honest because it’s perfectly set up and works well other than the DC DC software too many variables
Hey Ant, I have been running the dual force battery and just a redarc SBI12 as per your vids for 2 yrs now in my 2022 GXL and run a dometic 47L 24/7 on 2deg C. I'm def not running the size cable you did in your previous vid between SBI12 and dual force battery and haven't had any issues to date. The fridge lasts 4 days without driving or solar. Keep it simple i think!!
Ha ha you’re very good Let me translate it for you and make it a little bit more accurate Zero insecurity Now let’s do the passive, aggressive part I want to be aggressive But I’m trying to be nice Yeah, I guess that that = passive aggressive 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Hi just a quick question on your voltage based battery monitor is it accurate enough to judge the DCDC charger? Sounds like this is a simple cheaper option than a DCDC charger which would be great thank you for your advice. I could be wrong but voltage based monitor I believe only estimates battery capacity? Where a shunt measure all flow of current in and out given a more accurate battery capacity? Look forward to your value response
Voltage gives an awesome indication of what’s going on with battery state of charge. Once you get to know this looking at that data you can tell when the fridges compressors are cutting in cutting out and if it wasn’t good or accurate, we won’t be using it.
However, it has now been proven that that information is not enough for a red Oak, DC DC charger to work to charge the battery accurately that’s the point I guess it’s just not needed. The alternator will charge the battery consistently at about 13.8,13.9 V from my experience that’s how this vehicle was set up before the DC DC went in And it worked fine The advantage this one has is the solar panel on the roof always charging the battery when you’re not driving previous set up didn’t have that battery still got charged from driving and ended up in the same condition in the morning running the same fridges anyway ……
I had a question is your solenoid wired that when the car is on, it bridges by Batteries? If so that could be interfering with the DCDC charger. My thought process is that the DCDC charger works somewhat like a shunt by using your Batteries capacity and amperage to determine how to charge but if your solenoid is connecting both batteries it might be interfering with its readings.
To clarify about a comment i made on last video. I was the one that asked if its possibly related to solar input. Suggesting potential issue of alternator charge input been denied and solar input been used. Im not defending Redarc or making excuses (i use victron) just stating a reason for a potential problem in the algorithm or a problem within the monitoring of system.😂🤷♂️. As you stated the components fitted and installation is correct this should not be the result after spending $$. You are probably beyond caring but this should be raised with redarc tech support and resolved. If in fact the there dc/dc product cannot charge a second battery at correct profile at minimum a full refund and issue would need addressing. Installed many systems seen plenty of garbage. Currently running victron 12-12-30 dc/dc charger with standard Yuasa vehicle battery and a 300 a/h “house battery ” with solar input via MPPT 100/50 and never had an issue in all situations, charge profile on both batteries great. That said i have used redarc products before (not bc-dc products) never an issue, tech is good at answering questions. Enjoy the expert opinions 😂
You are correct it’s not my job to spend hours explaining to them the problem they can watch the videos if they like and they might get it because that’s exactly what’s happening it’s not smart enough. The software is not right to work out. What’s going on without thinking too hard either one of those is correct whether it’s using the solar or not it’s controlling it to be just over 13 V when it should be over 14. It’s quite simple right in front of me and my point of the video was to show people my experiences you just don’t need it and it can be a disadvantage also so why spend the money if you don’t need it and it can be a disadvantage when it doesn’t work right intermittently 😉🙏✌️
OMG don’t tell people they didn’t need to spend all that money 😮. 😂 amuses me. I use the SBI12 and my battery always charges to 12.8v which is 95%. Solar panel and victron MPPT tops it off when required. Simple and effective. Too many butts getting sore in here.
The only problem I don't like with red arc is there greenpower priority feature so whenever you are driving if there is solar available it will pick the solar over the alternator to charge your auxiliary battery where is other DC brand battery chargers choose alternator charging first
I had a setup almost identical to yours. LC200, Projecta 25A DCDC, Lead Acid Deep Cycle, 200w solar, all under bonnet with the car not running everyday. Ran for 4 years with no issues runnnig a 80L Fridge Freezer. Ran the battery low a couple of times but always kept the fridge cold. I did measure the output with a shunt though. I dont think the installation is the issue with your setup but it should not run the battery that low. I have changed to a rear mounted Lithium with Victron Orion DCDC and a 2000w inverter which also means there is much less voltage drop than runnning cable from under the bonnet to the rear of the car. I think that DCDC chanrgers can and do work but just not in all situations.
It works and the solar charge is the battery automatically. Everything works as it should other than the software been correct and not inputting the correct charge when required at times like this one.
It runs the battery low each day to about 12.2 V on average I am asking a lot from this battery running to fridges but they only total 50 L.
I don’t mind that I just want the charger to do what it should do when the car is being driven and charge at over 14 V for hours not one hour is the example given which a lot of people don’t seem to get that that is not good but it will do the job and unless people monitor their systems closely they might not notice that this is what is happening perhaps to some of them perhaps to all of them I don’t know that I just know one experience that is not acceptable Far is DC DC charging goes
I must be the lucky one. 2 years down the track, my DCDC charger the same as yours runs my 47l chest fridge a treat, day in and day out. Can sit from Friday night till Sunday , still going fine. Have yet to have needed to plug my 200w Solar blanket in to support it.
Yes, this battery can do that also and it can do it without a DC DC charger if it was running a 47 L fridge that would be a cf50 I have a fair bit of experience with those. They are not very cold battery lasts for days. 🤣🤣🤣 waeco Swedish for hot beer.
@@fourby4adventures704 sorry Anthony, my My Coolman sits on 3 degrees all day everyday. Perfect beer temperature 🍺🍺
Hi Ant, I run a mid range lithium battery in the back of Prado 150 and a well known brand dc dc charger reliabily for the last 4 years. However recently failed on an extended trip. I bypassed it to connect straight to alternator. No problem, except charging from about 80% to 100% takes a bit longer - so yes you don’t NEED a dcdc charger - but what yours is doing got be a fault, ring Redarc to see if they can do some troubleshooting with you. Cheers
Thanks for the advice, but I won’t bother calling them
It works OK sometimes it’s intermittent. It’s just software related people can’t program things to work. Ideally and of course as I made the point in the video it’s just not required and in real world testing using this battery before this charger was installed and then using the fridges, we had just the same or better results as far as charging goes based on How long the battery lasts running the fridges so conclusion waste of mine and it’s not needed because it worked without it that’s why it’s not really hope you get my drift
Have you asked Redarc? They might have an answer
No
I might do videos when I’m on holidays but I don’t call customer service
Quality products shouldn’t have problems
It’s not my job to spend the time for solutions
I’m not the only one that this would happen to me if people monitored , there’s more closely
They might say the same thing, and I believe Robot should have media people scanning the Internet for this information
Then they can contact me if they were to be organized and care 🤷♂️🤣😉🙏✌️
Mate I have the same problem with the redarc giving to much to solar on low voltage 🤔 and not enough from the alternator just thinking about a switch to turn the solar panels off 🤔
My friend, I just subscribed to your TH-cam channel- their are so many plenty keyboard warriors and clowns that know it all, are just gum nuts only you know how your system is set up. Thanks for showing your set up 👍
Its reasonable to question cable size.
Many issues arise with dcdc chargers come from under voltage and manerfacturers often recommend the incorrect size.
Unfortunate that ypure having issues with yours.
It might be reasonable if the information was not already available there is extensive information available on the set up in the playlist fridge Battery Solar
Did the video not show the engine day and set up in the video the whole time where you could say big fat wires and high quality connections. Yeah I get it some people don’t know that’s how I roll high quality.🤣🤣🤣
Everything is a one
You just don’t need a DC DC charger for this set up is the whole point no questions need to be asked to be honest because it’s perfectly set up and works well other than the DC DC software too many variables
@@fourby4adventures704 everyday is a school day, can always be learning
Hey Ant, I have been running the dual force battery and just a redarc SBI12 as per your vids for 2 yrs now in my 2022 GXL and run a dometic 47L 24/7 on 2deg C. I'm def not running the size cable you did in your previous vid between SBI12 and dual force battery and haven't had any issues to date. The fridge lasts 4 days without driving or solar. Keep it simple i think!!
Passive aggressive with a touch of insecurity 😂
Ha ha you’re very good
Let me translate it for you and make it a little bit more accurate
Zero insecurity
Now let’s do the passive, aggressive part
I want to be aggressive
But I’m trying to be nice
Yeah, I guess that that = passive aggressive
🤣🤣🤣🤣
🤗
Hi just a quick question on your voltage based battery monitor is it accurate enough to judge the DCDC charger?
Sounds like this is a simple cheaper option than a DCDC charger which would be great thank you for your advice.
I could be wrong but voltage based monitor I believe only estimates battery capacity?
Where a shunt measure all flow of current in and out given a more accurate battery capacity?
Look forward to your value response
Voltage gives an awesome indication of what’s going on with battery state of charge. Once you get to know this looking at that data you can tell when the fridges compressors are cutting in cutting out and if it wasn’t good or accurate, we won’t be using it.
However, it has now been proven that that information is not enough for a red Oak, DC DC charger to work to charge the battery accurately that’s the point I guess it’s just not needed. The alternator will charge the battery consistently at about 13.8,13.9 V from my experience that’s how this vehicle was set up before the DC DC went in And it worked fine
The advantage this one has is the solar panel on the roof always charging the battery when you’re not driving previous set up didn’t have that battery still got charged from driving and ended up in the same condition in the morning running the same fridges anyway ……
I had a question is your solenoid wired that when the car is on, it bridges by Batteries? If so that could be interfering with the DCDC charger. My thought process is that the DCDC charger works somewhat like a shunt by using your Batteries capacity and amperage to determine how to charge but if your solenoid is connecting both batteries it might be interfering with its readings.
In other words it bridging input and output of the DCDC charger
No
To clarify about a comment i made on last video. I was the one that asked if its possibly related to solar input. Suggesting potential issue of alternator charge input been denied and solar input been used. Im not defending Redarc or making excuses (i use victron) just stating a reason for a potential problem in the algorithm or a problem within the monitoring of system.😂🤷♂️. As you stated the components fitted and installation is correct this should not be the result after spending $$. You are probably beyond caring but this should be raised with redarc tech support and resolved. If in fact the there dc/dc product cannot charge a second battery at correct profile at minimum a full refund and issue would need addressing. Installed many systems seen plenty of garbage. Currently running victron 12-12-30 dc/dc charger with standard Yuasa vehicle battery and a 300 a/h “house battery ” with solar input via MPPT 100/50 and never had an issue in all situations, charge profile on both batteries great. That said i have used redarc products before (not bc-dc products) never an issue, tech is good at answering questions. Enjoy the expert opinions 😂
You are correct it’s not my job to spend hours explaining to them the problem they can watch the videos if they like and they might get it because that’s exactly what’s happening it’s not smart enough. The software is not right to work out. What’s going on without thinking too hard either one of those is correct whether it’s using the solar or not it’s controlling it to be just over 13 V when it should be over 14. It’s quite simple right in front of me and my point of the video was to show people my experiences you just don’t need it and it can be a disadvantage also so why spend the money if you don’t need it and it can be a disadvantage when it doesn’t work right intermittently 😉🙏✌️
OMG don’t tell people they didn’t need to spend all that money 😮. 😂 amuses me. I use the SBI12 and my battery always charges to 12.8v which is 95%. Solar panel and victron MPPT tops it off when required. Simple and effective. Too many butts getting sore in here.
I recommend some help for you. Sounds like you asking for it….Get a dc to dc charger, different brand. Put bigger wire. Put more solar.
🤣🤣
@@Bilskirnir030 are you serious ??
Internet experts get all their information from 4WD24/7,
Anthony you need to spend $42799.00 to run two fridges. 😁🍺
Bloody Legend 🤣🤣😉😉🙏🙏✌️✌️