Hi, I ran across almost the same issue on 2008 Hyundai Accent. when engine is cold there is no cylinder #1 misfire no multiple cylinder misfire. However, when engine warms up and it's in closed loop also, engine starts to shake slightly and PCM sets multiple misfire and cylinder #1 misfire plus it shuts off fuel injector #1. I rev the rpm up a little bit above idle, engine runs smoothly with no misfires on all cylinders and no injector shutoff. O2 sensor is reporting lean at idle, LTFT is +4%. I tried to spry water on the intake manifold to locate a leak but there is no change at all. I am going to get me a smoke machine to do the leak detection test and will take it from there. Again, when engine is cold no misfire on all cylinders, when engine revved up no misfire at all. Thank you for the valuable information presented on this video.
👍🏼 Good job and a great video to boot! My 2016 Accent just threw a blinking CEL and I'll be taking her in on Monday. At least now I'll have a better idea of what's what. Thanks man.
Had one of these cars, bought it new. After 40,000 it started to buck and kick and throw a CEL. Got ripped off by a dealer one time. Figured out it was the #3 coil going bad but always the #3 in mine. It died at 128k when I burned up the starter ( damn thing absolutely refused to turn over it just cranked and cranked and cranked.) . When I did get it back it absolutely refused to rev over 4000 rpm. Once it cleared that problem the power steering rack let go, that combined with needing a new exhaust was going to be 1200 bucks. The car was worth 300 bucks so it wasn’t worth trying to fix it
Ouch, sorry to hear that. Certainly seems these cars are hit-or-miss when it comes to reliability. I did later put a steering rack in this car and a few other minor repairs that were just caused by our weather and road salt.
I remember there was a brace or two down to the block I had to remove. Can't recall if I got those bottom manifold bolts from topside or underneath. If the Kia coming in tomorrow is similar I'll reply to let ya know.
Mine Is disturbing right now when you turn it on it steams for a while and cut off current ,when it's cokd you can fire it but when it's hit you cannot fir it it will off ,be doing break and quench,coil and plugs are okay but steaming and firingg when driving are not working properly
I don't remember where it was on this car. You can look up the part on rockauto and maybe the picture will help identify it. It could also be inside the fuel tank so don't get too upset if you don't see it under the hood.
Hi,
I ran across almost the same issue on 2008 Hyundai Accent. when engine is cold there is no cylinder #1 misfire no multiple cylinder misfire. However, when engine warms up and it's in closed loop also, engine starts to shake slightly and PCM sets multiple misfire and cylinder #1 misfire plus it shuts off fuel injector #1. I rev the rpm up a little bit above idle, engine runs smoothly with no misfires on all cylinders and no injector shutoff. O2 sensor is reporting lean at idle, LTFT is +4%. I tried to spry water on the intake manifold to locate a leak but there is no change at all. I am going to get me a smoke machine to do the leak detection test and will take it from there. Again, when engine is cold no misfire on all cylinders, when engine revved up no misfire at all.
Thank you for the valuable information presented on this video.
👍🏼 Good job and a great video to boot! My 2016 Accent just threw a blinking CEL and I'll be taking her in on Monday. At least now I'll have a better idea of what's what. Thanks man.
Thank you very much for your well done & explained video! As it turned out this is exactly what happened to my car, all is well, good job!! 👌👍😊
Good info that the problem from gasket manifold, mine just replace injector, but same problem misfire from selinder no2.., next try gasket manifold
I am having the exact same problem with mine. Thanks
Had one of these cars, bought it new. After 40,000 it started to buck and kick and throw a CEL. Got ripped off by a dealer one time. Figured out it was the #3 coil going bad but always the #3 in mine. It died at 128k when I burned up the starter ( damn thing absolutely refused to turn over it just cranked and cranked and cranked.) . When I did get it back it absolutely refused to rev over 4000 rpm. Once it cleared that problem the power steering rack let go, that combined with needing a new exhaust was going to be 1200 bucks. The car was worth 300 bucks so it wasn’t worth trying to fix it
Ouch, sorry to hear that. Certainly seems these cars are hit-or-miss when it comes to reliability. I did later put a steering rack in this car and a few other minor repairs that were just caused by our weather and road salt.
IS MY CAR ELANTRA 2008 A GHOST OR SOMETHING? 159k MILES AND NEVER A SINGLE ENGINE LIGHT.
Would have like to see the steps on how to unbolt the Air Intake.. How did you access the bottom bolts hidden by the starter??
I remember there was a brace or two down to the block I had to remove. Can't recall if I got those bottom manifold bolts from topside or underneath. If the Kia coming in tomorrow is similar I'll reply to let ya know.
Mine Is disturbing right now when you turn it on it steams for a while and cut off current ,when it's cokd you can fire it but when it's hit you cannot fir it it will off ,be doing break and quench,coil and plugs are okay but steaming and firingg when driving are not working properly
May not have been torqued correctly also would cause shrinkage
Nice
What is the cost of parts and repairs?
Do you know where the fuel pressure regulator is located in the 08 Accent?
I don't remember where it was on this car. You can look up the part on rockauto and maybe the picture will help identify it. It could also be inside the fuel tank so don't get too upset if you don't see it under the hood.
It is located in the fuel pump itself in the fuel pump assembly
return black 2011