With a teardown and a full professional rebuild like that that motor should last you all of another 30 years. You definitely should get your moneys worth out of it as long as you keep up the maintenance and changing the oil. You seem like a guy who knows about these particular tractors very well and does this stuff for a living.
What a great tutorial! Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I'll definitely be using it for reference when rebuilding the K341 in my 210 (whenever I find the time to get it done lol), as it's nice to be able to actually watch someone else do it in addition to reading out of the service manual. Nice job, as always!
Thank you for your kind words! I try my best to share as much knowledge as I possibly can. I'm glad to hear you may use this as a reference for your K341 rebuild! Manuals are super helpful for certain specs, but nowadays it sure is neat to watch videos. I hope you find the time to rebuild your engine, because I have a feeling this 16hp Kohler is built really, really well! I prefer this simplistic design over the opposed kohler engine to be fair. If you have any other questions you can always send me an email. Best Regards
Very nice video. The only thing I noticed was the cover for the reed valve for crankcase pressure relief. It’s where your lifters are. You placed it in backwards. The sides are supposed to be away from the spring metal/reed valve so it can allow movement. You compressed the valve so it won’t open.
Good eye! I give you credit for noticing that and I will have to change that right away on my JD300! The bends on the backing plate must be facing forward so the reed valve has enough room to open and close. I try my best to get everything right and share the correct assembly method, but sometimes I oversee details myself. Thank you for pointing this out Allen!! Best regards
I saw the video on the first fire up for your JD. Beautiful tractor! A lot of time and patience went into it. Don’t want to see it ruined. I will be rebuilding a K341 on my wheel horse soon. Will definitely be referring to your video. Thanks again!
@@allen4902 Thank you Allen, I appreciate it! I did put quite a few hours into the rebuild and I wouldn't want that either!! I'm happy to hear that you are into garden tractors and Wheel Horse is a popular brand. I've heard a lot of good facts about them. I hope you can get your engine back together and hopefully it work flawlessly. Thank you and best regards
Hello Tom, I‘m not sure where you are located but you should take a look on Facebook Marketplace. There are always dome good deals there. Search for Kohler 16hp or Kohler K341. I hope this helps. Regards Andreas
I really liked this video, it helped me a lot. My only question for you is on the minute 1.38 in the video, where exactly the supporting bolt the holds the governor gear goes? Inside on the inside? How it holds the governor? On my tractor that bolt it's loose, it's not screwed into the block. Do I need to disassemble the engine to put it back in? I would much appreciate your response.
Hello Rodrigo, I'm glad this video has helped you and thanks for asking a great question! This bolt acts like a guide for the governor gear so it rides in the middle of the camshaft and that is why it's smooth on all surfaces within the engine block. If this bolt is loose or not installed at all, you should be able to thread it in without taking the engine apart. At minute 02:56 you can see me turn the governor shaft by hand to feel the governor gear touch the bolts as I thread it in. You should NOT have to disassemble your engine. I hope this works for you too and that you manage to fix this issue you have. Thanks for tuning in and if you have any other questions, feel free to comment below! Regards Andreas
@@WorkshopRebuild Thank you very much for the response. It helps a lot, I will try to put it back in. I just want to let you know that this tutorial was by far the best. I am gad to support your channel.
This is one of the best all-in-one videos I've seen to date on K series rebuilds. Going to be doing a K321 in the near future, and wondered if the rod cap is supposed to point towards the cam or not. Some rebuild parts places recommend it, some don't. I would imagine it probably does make some difference, but end note is that it serves to splash oil into the rod cap surface, correct? I guess it does matter based on rotation and whether the oil will splash up into that hole to lube the rod.
I appreciate your meaningful comment!! A Kohler K321 is very similar to this engine and if you ever need any instructions or information about that engine check out this link: bitly.ws/wDJe Usually the rod cap arrow faces the flywheel on these Kohler air cooled engines. For the splash lubrication I don't see any reason why you cannot install them the other way around, because the rods are symmetrical and measure the same...except for the little arrow. I just install them according to the manual and haven't had any issues since. I hope this answers your questions and helps you with your K321 rebuild. Cheers
Thank you Jason! It sure is a nice engine to work on. Very simple and the K341 has a fair amount of power too :) I hope you get around to rebuild one in the near future. Best Regards
What are your thoughts on studding the block/head i have a K321, that do to a bad spark plug hole, i had to remove the head and of course snap 2 bolts off promptly on either side of the exhaust! So... I have a K361 (for $50,gotta love fb market place) i picked up and am just going over it and it looks nice, buuuut im a bit nervous and wondering, is there any bad reasons not to??!
I'm not familiar with the K321 and K361, but if the engine blocks are physically the same, then I do not see any issues why you can't do that! If you use studs or bolts it doesn't really matter. You just want to make sure that you have quality bolts (Grade 8 or higher). If you use studs, you want to grab hardened washers and a quality nuts as well. I hope this helps and if yo have any other questions feel free to ask! Cheers -Andreas
nice video i see the you did't ck the gap between connetin rod end crankshaft i ask this because i did try to rebuild my k341 w 3 balancing gear went it run on idler and full throttle was fine bout half throttle was making this wear noises found out the connetin rod was to much play never fix thanks
Correct I did not showcase any measurements of any parts in this video. Before the assembly process I measure everything. What that means is: I take inside micrometers, outside micrometers and dial gauges to check all bores, bearing surfaces and machined surfaces. Once all measurements have been gone through, I compare them with manufacturer standards. In this case I found all measurements from Kohler online and was able to determine that this engine can be rebuilt. If some measurements are too big or too small (excess wear), I must repair this before assembly. In the future I might be able to share a video on how I measure an engine before I take further action. I hope that helps. Best regards
@@WorkshopRebuild thank you! Did you do that? I’m just afraid the silicone will ball up at the tip of the Bolt when I thread it in and cause it to snap. I already had one snap off and don’t want it to happen again.
@@diesel_dude08 I did not, but I wouldn't hurt to add some. If you apply it to the threads of your bolts, it shouldn't push downwards. You do not want to overtighten these bolts as they are quite small! I hope you were able to get the damaged part out without too much hassle.
Hello, I am trying to rebuild a k301 right now. According to the manual the rear main seal is supposed to be pushed In .125”. I had messed with it for hours and hours. I tried getting the block level, I tried using a hammer and a seal driver and I tried using a press and a driver. All had the same result. I could not get it to be .125” all around. Some spots measure .122” and some measure .126” I posted this in a forum and someone said it would be fine, but do you think it would be okay?
Hi there! Most parts are cast externally, and when you measure from a non-machined surface you will have fluctuations. I‘m not sure if it‘s cast on that surface or machined, next to the seal, but I believe you‘re just fine. Most seal lips aren’t very accurate either. Just make sure the spring is in place and that both internal and external surfaces are sealing. I hope this helps👍🏼
Hi Philip, I have a rebuild video for a Kohler K532 which is identical to the K582, despite having smaller cylinder bores. Check it out here: th-cam.com/video/AjbQKRJXOww/w-d-xo.html I hope this will help with your repairs. Regards Andreas
Some parts of the video have audio issues and I am aware of that, unfortunately nothing can be done about this in hindsight. This is a full engine rebuild video and nothing was skipped in the video. Cheers
What is a 'thow'? Is 'thousant(s)' too hard to say? At least you didn't say things like 'where's my wrench [at]. All that's needed is 'Where's my wrench?'. Adding 'at' needlessly identifies the person as ignorant and stupid. I know I'm being nitpicking, but seriously, is correct language all that hard? One more: people announce 'I'll be honest....'. Seriously, if you have to announce when you're being honest, does that mean lies cover all the rest? The correct phrase is 'I'll be candid (share more details).
![[UNCUT]"ทนายตั้ม" แฉยับ! ความลับสวรรค์ ใครคือ "บิ๊กเทวดา" ของบอสพอล l คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ l 15 ต.ค. 67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ru9fpSaUwdA/mqdefault.jpg)
With a teardown and a full professional rebuild like that that motor should last you all of another 30 years. You definitely should get your moneys worth out of it as long as you keep up the maintenance and changing the oil. You seem like a guy who knows about these particular tractors very well and does this stuff for a living.
What a great tutorial! Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I'll definitely be using it for reference when rebuilding the K341 in my 210 (whenever I find the time to get it done lol), as it's nice to be able to actually watch someone else do it in addition to reading out of the service manual. Nice job, as always!
Thank you for your kind words! I try my best to share as much knowledge as I possibly can. I'm glad to hear you may use this as a reference for your K341 rebuild! Manuals are super helpful for certain specs, but nowadays it sure is neat to watch videos. I hope you find the time to rebuild your engine, because I have a feeling this 16hp Kohler is built really, really well! I prefer this simplistic design over the opposed kohler engine to be fair. If you have any other questions you can always send me an email. Best Regards
Very nice video. The only thing I noticed was the cover for the reed valve for crankcase pressure relief. It’s where your lifters are. You placed it in backwards. The sides are supposed to be away from the spring metal/reed valve so it can allow movement. You compressed the valve so it won’t open.
Good eye! I give you credit for noticing that and I will have to change that right away on my JD300! The bends on the backing plate must be facing forward so the reed valve has enough room to open and close. I try my best to get everything right and share the correct assembly method, but sometimes I oversee details myself. Thank you for pointing this out Allen!! Best regards
I saw the video on the first fire up for your JD. Beautiful tractor! A lot of time and patience went into it. Don’t want to see it ruined. I will be rebuilding a K341 on my wheel horse soon. Will definitely be referring to your video. Thanks again!
@@allen4902 Thank you Allen, I appreciate it! I did put quite a few hours into the rebuild and I wouldn't want that either!! I'm happy to hear that you are into garden tractors and Wheel Horse is a popular brand. I've heard a lot of good facts about them. I hope you can get your engine back together and hopefully it work flawlessly. Thank you and best regards
Good job. Your abilities exceed your age. Thanks.
Thank you for your comment, it means a lot to me! I try to soak up as much information as I possibly can and share as much as I can. Regards Andreas
Thanks for the vid, iam currently looking for a 16 hp Kohler for my walker mower. Do you have any leads. Thanks
Hello Tom, I‘m not sure where you are located but you should take a look on Facebook Marketplace. There are always dome good deals there.
Search for Kohler 16hp or Kohler K341. I hope this helps. Regards Andreas
I really liked this video, it helped me a lot. My only question for you is on the minute 1.38 in the video, where exactly the supporting bolt the holds the governor gear goes? Inside on the inside? How it holds the governor? On my tractor that bolt it's loose, it's not screwed into the block. Do I need to disassemble the engine to put it back in? I would much appreciate your response.
Hello Rodrigo, I'm glad this video has helped you and thanks for asking a great question! This bolt acts like a guide for the governor gear so it rides in the middle of the camshaft and that is why it's smooth on all surfaces within the engine block. If this bolt is loose or not installed at all, you should be able to thread it in without taking the engine apart. At minute 02:56 you can see me turn the governor shaft by hand to feel the governor gear touch the bolts as I thread it in. You should NOT have to disassemble your engine. I hope this works for you too and that you manage to fix this issue you have. Thanks for tuning in and if you have any other questions, feel free to comment below! Regards Andreas
@@WorkshopRebuild Thank you very much for the response. It helps a lot, I will try to put it back in. I just want to let you know that this tutorial was by far the best. I am gad to support your channel.
This is one of the best all-in-one videos I've seen to date on K series rebuilds. Going to be doing a K321 in the near future, and wondered if the rod cap is supposed to point towards the cam or not. Some rebuild parts places recommend it, some don't. I would imagine it probably does make some difference, but end note is that it serves to splash oil into the rod cap surface, correct? I guess it does matter based on rotation and whether the oil will splash up into that hole to lube the rod.
I appreciate your meaningful comment!! A Kohler K321 is very similar to this engine and if you ever need any instructions or information about that engine check out this link: bitly.ws/wDJe
Usually the rod cap arrow faces the flywheel on these Kohler air cooled engines. For the splash lubrication I don't see any reason why you cannot install them the other way around, because the rods are symmetrical and measure the same...except for the little arrow. I just install them according to the manual and haven't had any issues since.
I hope this answers your questions and helps you with your K321 rebuild. Cheers
Very well done vedio.Thank you.
Thank you very much! I hope this will help you. Best regards
Nice video! always wanted to work on one of those old k341. very helpful!
Thank you Jason! It sure is a nice engine to work on. Very simple and the K341 has a fair amount of power too :) I hope you get around to rebuild one in the near future. Best Regards
Have a k341 on an old 310 bobcat , awesome engine
How many pounds do you apply to the two bolts that attach the connecting rod to the crankshaft???
What are your thoughts on studding the block/head i have a K321, that do to a bad spark plug hole, i had to remove the head and of course snap 2 bolts off promptly on either side of the exhaust! So... I have a K361 (for $50,gotta love fb market place) i picked up and am just going over it and it looks nice, buuuut im a bit nervous and wondering, is there any bad reasons not to??!
I'm not familiar with the K321 and K361, but if the engine blocks are physically the same, then I do not see any issues why you can't do that! If you use studs or bolts it doesn't really matter. You just want to make sure that you have quality bolts (Grade 8 or higher). If you use studs, you want to grab hardened washers and a quality nuts as well.
I hope this helps and if yo have any other questions feel free to ask! Cheers -Andreas
Great video
I'm glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for sharing your feedback! Regards Andreas
nice video i see the you did't ck the gap between connetin rod end crankshaft i ask this because i did try to rebuild my k341 w 3 balancing gear went it run on idler and full throttle was fine bout half throttle was making this wear noises found out the connetin rod was to much play never fix thanks
Correct I did not showcase any measurements of any parts in this video. Before the assembly process I measure everything. What that means is: I take inside micrometers, outside micrometers and dial gauges to check all bores, bearing surfaces and machined surfaces. Once all measurements have been gone through, I compare them with manufacturer standards. In this case I found all measurements from Kohler online and was able to determine that this engine can be rebuilt. If some measurements are too big or too small (excess wear), I must repair this before assembly. In the future I might be able to share a video on how I measure an engine before I take further action. I hope that helps. Best regards
thanks
@@linozamarripa1708 You're very welcome
Should I put silicone on the bearing plate bolt threads?
IT wouldn't hurt to put some on the bolts, just to ensure it will not leak in the future. Cheers
@@WorkshopRebuild thank you! Did you do that? I’m just afraid the silicone will ball up at the tip of the Bolt when I thread it in and cause it to snap. I already had one snap off and don’t want it to happen again.
@@diesel_dude08 I did not, but I wouldn't hurt to add some.
If you apply it to the threads of your bolts, it shouldn't push downwards. You do not want to overtighten these bolts as they are quite small! I hope you were able to get the damaged part out without too much hassle.
Hello, I am trying to rebuild a k301 right now. According to the manual the rear main seal is supposed to be pushed In .125”. I had messed with it for hours and hours. I tried getting the block level, I tried using a hammer and a seal driver and I tried using a press and a driver. All had the same result. I could not get it to be .125” all around. Some spots measure .122” and some measure .126” I posted this in a forum and someone said it would be fine, but do you think it would be okay?
Hi there! Most parts are cast externally, and when you measure from a non-machined surface you will have fluctuations.
I‘m not sure if it‘s cast on that surface or machined, next to the seal, but I believe you‘re just fine.
Most seal lips aren’t very accurate either. Just make sure the spring is in place and that both internal and external surfaces are sealing.
I hope this helps👍🏼
@@WorkshopRebuildthank you!
All the important steps the camera doesn’t work? You should have redone those portions
Hi Brandon, that was the case as I was using an old iPhone 6 at the time😅 I should have redone those parts of video but never did. Sorry
What is the dia of the output shaft?
If I'm not mistaken it is a 1" shaft
Do I have a rebuild for a Kohler K582?
Hi Philip, I have a rebuild video for a Kohler K532 which is identical to the K582, despite having smaller cylinder bores. Check it out here: th-cam.com/video/AjbQKRJXOww/w-d-xo.html I hope this will help with your repairs. Regards Andreas
Too much noise with the music
Excuse me for the inconvenience! I had issues with the music/audio in the past and this has since been sorted out. Regards Andreas
What are you saying ? Can't hear you because someone has music playing louder than you are speaking . You are skipping past some important things .
Some parts of the video have audio issues and I am aware of that, unfortunately nothing can be done about this in hindsight. This is a full engine rebuild video and nothing was skipped in the video. Cheers
What is a 'thow'? Is 'thousant(s)' too hard to say? At least you didn't say things like 'where's my wrench [at]. All that's needed is 'Where's my wrench?'. Adding 'at' needlessly identifies the person as ignorant and stupid. I know I'm being nitpicking, but seriously, is correct language all that hard?
One more: people announce 'I'll be honest....'. Seriously, if you have to announce when you're being honest, does that mean lies cover all the rest? The correct phrase is 'I'll be candid (share more details).
Друг скажи какой зазор должен быть на кулачках зажигания
Intake Valve: 0.008-0.010" and Exhaust Valve: 0.017-0.019"