Just a small note - but the Company fuse enclosure saying 100 amps does not mean that the fuse inside is also 100 amps. It's just that the housing is rated to accept 100 amps. Inside it could be fitted with a lower fuse.
Always contact the DNO. fuse and cut out are nothing to do with the energy supplier. Secondly the fuse might be marked 100amps but doesn't necessarily mean there's a 100amp fuse installed they can take 80 and 60 amp.
When I got my Ioniq, Hyundai paid for a Pod-Point charger, so with the OLEV grant I got it for free. My garage is away from the house so I dug a culvert along the garden path before installation and paid £50 for the extra cable run. My advice is email the installers, send lots of photos of where you want it installing, and do as much preparatory work as you can. On the day, it went like a dream.
Eric Johnson might be a little late but check with your electric company. I’m in GA and Georgia Power offers a $250 rebate if you install a level 2 charger.
@@catscats50 umm a difribulater is to jumpstart a human having a heart attack. Nice try though. At least a nuclear reactor would charge your car super fast. You know before it melts into a puddle on the floor.
If the DNO is limited supply you can either drop the charger rating to 18-22 amps depending on the charger or fit a changeover device if needed, the earth TT all depends on the readings to what is required rod wise, The TT earth makes the install easier as you're not sharing the houses PME, TT or whatever earthing system is used PS. clean your gutters out (by the garage) i think we're in for a bad winter and that damp wall will cause issues
Went for an untethered as the PHEV still uses Type-1. Fitted one of those little plastic sockets (a few quid off flea-bay) and fixed the cable with a padlock. Acts as a tethered, but can swap it when I need to. 👍
Tethered makes sense for outdoor charging. For indoor charging a portable unit makes more sense for me. The evse easily unplugs and goes into the boot of my Honda Clarity for road trips.
For 6 years, I’ve used the charge point (EVSE) that came with my car. Just plug into any outlet. I adapted it to level 2, but found level 1 does fine. Now we have 2 EV’s, and although we have 2 EVSE’s, just 1 trickle charge does the job. The biggest modification I’ve done is to clean out the garage. Keeps the car clean, warm, etc.
Changing the main fuse can be very easy. My installer had me check what capacity main fuse I had (before they started work) - and it was not clear what rating it had. I live in south Wales, so contacted Western Power (my DNO) and they came round promptly to check and upgrade it, no charge.
Great Video! I’m an Installer of EV Charging Points and also make TH-cam Videos. Your content was spot on and very informative. Great channel! Keep up the good work.
Well done! Well I say that my family haven't yet. I think we need to make the transition slowly so we may be going plug-in. But still, welcome to the world of EVs!
Brilliant and really helpful. Just ordered our first EV, and are going through the process of having a charge point installed. I’m no electrician either, but the info you provided has really simplified the process and made it much easier to understand. Thanks
When my charger was fitted the position was limited as they could not install near an outside tap or a gas meter. The earth rod had to be within 5m (?) of the charger but I had gas and water supply under the drive which limited the position. Then when they inserted the rod it did not get an adequate earth so had to be moved another 5m (?) - with extra cable to hide. Ended up repositioning the charger completely. My installation was free as I was an Ovo customer and they did it as a promotion. Check it out . The installation 'engineers' were brilliant.
I used Smart Home Charge after watching this video. Guys who completed the install were great & did a good job. Admin team I would not rate as highly. I have a 60 amp inlet fuse, I tried to flag this up with the via phone and email before the install. The admin team said if needs attention we'll sort it. Then on day of install got told we are de-rating charger, you'll have to contact DNO. Let the know how annoyed I was as I tried to get this sorted 3 weeks ago, if I'd have been aware they didn't deal with DNO I would have done it myself. Generally poor communication from them.
Great guide and you covered the major points. Would have been interested in what was smart about the smart charger. I know some installations say you need a 3g signal for them. Not sure if that's still the case.
EVM I had a Pod-Point 7 kW tethered home charger installed. It was all arranged free of charge by my local Nissan dealership. From application to install I only have to wait two days. Amazing! Pod-Point used a contractor to do the install and he was excellent. My only issue now is that I have a tethered type one connection. But I can’t have the cable swapped out for a type two if needed.
Ovo are doing a trial V to G and with a free charger and if you have solar panels even better. 17p for incoming and 26p for outgoing electric. A 2 year trial.
Just a word of advice regarding the main supply fuse at the cut-out. Don't assume that if it says 100A on there that it is actually a 100A fuse inside as these are generic labels used on thousands of cut-outs and the fuse could be 60A, 80A or 100A. Always contact you local DNO (distribution network operator) to get an engineer out to physically check. Another point I would like to make is since the introduction of recent smart charger, some chargers have something called a fuse saver or grid limit setting. This means they can be programmed so that the total power used in the house does not exceed the rating of the main fuse, for example 60A. This means your main fuse will not need upgrading as in effect the charger 'throttles back' the power if you are getting close to the fuse rating. Regards phil. OLEV approved installer.
At 5:25 the Henley block fuse holder may have a 100 amp LABEL but is it is the experience of myself and many sparks, that the fitted fuse is only a 60 amp. Great video - hadn't realised there are so many dump "Daily mail" stories about EV chargers.
As ususual a very good informative video. I actually went with an untethered cable and use the one that came with my 2nd gen Leaf. One reason was obviously the cost. Mine also has a key so that I can lock the charge point when I am not using it to stop someone else using my electricity for free to charge there car while I am work all day. The other reason I went for the non tethered cable was that should anything go wrong with the charger after the warranty period. I was informed that it would obviously cosy less to replace, and like you said in the video you already have a cable with the car so why go to the expense of paying for an extra one that can only be attached to the house. To be honest the extra 20 seconds it takes me to get out of the car walk round to the boot and pick up that cable is not that much of an inconvenience to be honest. :) Thanks for producing all these great videos they are as I said really informative and have recommended them already to several friends, work colleagues and family.
Pam Hill have just measured the cable for you that came with my 2nd Gen Leaf and it is 6 meters. Longer than I thought to be honest. Hope that helps you make an informed decision Pam.
Pete Lawrance Thanks very much Pete, just to confirm that it’s a type 2 to type 2 cable, did it come with your new car in addition to the “granny” cable? I have ordered a Leaf on a lease deal but we will only get it at the end of September so am using this period to find out more about home charging. We always reverse into our drive so I guess the cable won’t be long enough to reach from the front wall where the charger will be mounted to the front of the car.
Pam Hill It is a type 2 to type 2 the one you need to use for the public charging posts. When I laid it out to measure it went from the front of the car and ¾ of the way back again. So yes it should reach from the front of your car to the wall box if you were to reverse as long as you are not to far away from the wall box. The Nissan Leaf is nearly 4.5 meters long so you should have over 1 meter spare taking in to account ½ the width of the car to get to the charge point 😊
Just an observation, but if your main incoming cable is only protected by a sixty amp breaker (or fuse), you can't just stick a one hundred amp fuse in. The cable could well need uprating too.
I got a leaf 4 years ago and a friend said wait and see if you actually need a dedicated 7 kw charger because the 3 kw "granny" plug was ok for him. However although it comes with a normal 13amp plug you should have a dedicated circuit for the charger not just plug into any old socket. When i got the leaf 2 I got a free 7 watt charger and the price was right. However I also have solar panels and I still use the granny plug because the solar power output is about 2.5 kw so I get more solar power into the battery albeit at half the rate.
thanks for you video, what I'm trying to find out is i have garage at the end of my garden which is on property land but far from the building. can these outlets be installed in the garage and will they installers be able to trace the electrical line to the garage if there is no power in the garage.
I've just ordered my first hybrid SUV ford Kuga 2.5 plugin hybrid so looking to install a charging point, thanks as I know nothing about installing one
Have you considered (if possible) to have a full roof of panels and a storage system? Thus avoiding all the electricity costs and the other costs.. Plus avoiding the government asking for extra tax for EV electricity (not yet but they will, be sure of it)....
It’s amazing how far the fossil fuel and ICE industries will go to slow the adoption of EV’s. The safety concerns you mentioned at the start of the video had to come from somewhere. Individuals that bring these concerns up, got them from misinformation campaigns.
you prolly dont give a damn but does any of you know a trick to log back into an Instagram account..? I stupidly forgot my login password. I love any assistance you can give me.
@Dayton Denver i really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm in the hacking process now. Seems to take quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
I've heard not all charge points these days need the ground rod. I think I'm going to look for a charge point that doesn't need that extra cable and rod.
An earthing rod may not be needed, it depends on the charger design. For example the zappi from myenergi has a self contained circuit breaker complying with the latest standards which makes an earthing rod unnecessary. (Just in case some people don't want to dig a hole in the drive). I'm also surprised that an electrician allowed you to have a power cable in the drain without any protection!
just deciding whether to bother with a charger, we have an outside socket on the front of the house which we use to charge the car... plug it in most nights, charged by morning
I've been charging my smart on a 13 amp socket since purchase in July, but there are draw backs to this, first you can't preheat or cool the car as effectively as with a 7kw charger, then there is the worry of theft of the charger lead (I park on the front of the House and am not allowed by the council to fence the frontage) the reasons I decided to go for a tethered lead.
I've a really challenging install problem, Consumer unit at front of a mid terrace house, parking at rear. Been charging via 3-pin as an OLEV install would be too costly, suffices for my daily driving needs. 2 kW x 4 miles/kWh x E7 = 56 miles. 3-pin is left installed as a 'tethered' supply.
As i understand a smart charger can be turned down by your power supplier in times of hi demand, If you plug in your car and your battery is near to empty and its a high capacity battery you could find your battery is not charged to the level you might have expected the following morning. Is this a good reason to go for a non smart charger
My smart charger ( Kaluza / ChargedEV ) has an override button for instant charge if you need it before the next morning. This will eliminate the problem.
Electric Vehicle Man The one that is running to your outdoor car charger. Over here we have to overdo everything. 😂 I like your way much better. I really like your electrical outlets, big and powerful! I was not criticizing anything, just pointing out the differences between different areas. I find it fascinating when I travel to compare different systems.
@@mitchellbarnow1709 It's steel-wire armoured cable, designed for direct burial. I think our regs do require additional protection where there is a plausible risk of physical damage.
Hi mate. My situation is different bit.I live with my family in a hospital accomodation ( 2 bed flat). I am a male nurse. The residential parking is very close to the our block ( there are are 3 blocks in total). Parking spaces are marked according to flat or room number but we can park wherever we find a free space, currently. I live on the 2nd floor and even though I could use a 25m extension, I am a bit reluctant( even though bills are includes in the rent and its fixed monthlt basis). I have a neighbour on the ground floor with a 330e bmw and I have purchased recently an used Outlander Phev. My daily commute is in general mainly 7 miles to 7 miles from work ( same NHS trust but different hospital). He doesnt uses his since he starts later than me and finished earlier so shuttle bus available beyween sites so basically he uses his car weekends). I do long days and nights ( 12 to 13 hrs shifts) with charging point at work ( Newmotion 20p /kwh). Advice please!!!
I have solar panels with an inverter and a Li Ion battery pack.How does this work with solar dc. The house uses the inverter to ac. I get that but is there another inverter in the car for ac to dc? Is it possible to get solar dc directly to the car? Am I missing something here?
Great guide, just one other point to take into consideration when working out the Charger placement is to make sure you're able to reverse into your driveway (Highway code Rule 201).
Good video, thanks. I don't understand why an Earth rod is needed; surely the supply cable has an Earth conductor in the cable that can go back to the consumer unit which has a good Earth back to the incoming mains supply?
Not all homes are supplied with a separate earth supply cable some use the neutral as the earth return, so in case of a neutral cable fault which leaves you unprotected an earth rod is required maybe even two.
Surprised it needs a local earth. Is your house a TT installation? I'd expect it just to be earthed back to the CU/meter and thus use the same earth as the rest of the house.
My "fuse box" is inside the house, in a small (only slightly bigger than fuse-box-sized) box on the wall of our dining room. When I eventually get my EV, I want my charge point basically on the other side of the wall from the fuse box. The electric meter itself is in a cabinet-thingy on the outside of the same wall, just by where I would want the charger-point. No way would the wife let me have a huge extra box on the wall in the dining room for that additional fuse just for the charge point. Any idea on what other locations or whatever might be possible for that extra charger-fuse? Could it be put *inside* the meter-cabinet that is outside the house for example?
Been having huge difficulty getting charge point installed. Basically, no proper information, or any advice from the company regarding routing of the cabling, and it was only when I had to get an electrician in to sort out another problem and he suggested routing it around the back of my house where it wouldn't be visible, that I realised this would make much more sense (aesthetically). But still arguing with the company I chose, who have now been paid for this work over a month, but still no point installed. The whole process has been very frustrating, and I don't think the industry is doing anything like enough to really help the customer. The car companies just want to flog you an expensive motor, and the chargepoint companies with the huge range of charges, the different sockets, and the differentials in cost, and the fact that they expect the customer to understand exactly what it takes has been hugely frustrating. It's a bit late for me, but hopefully when EVs are more common there might be a bit more standardisation and more help for the customer.
I have a 63A main fuse; installer said (three years ago) the electric company might contact me and swap it for 100A, but they haven't. I do have very little on the electrics though - all gas cooker and hob, gas combi boiler. No electric cooker, no electric shower - the thing that draws the most current in the house is the kettle! I have one of those energy monitor things; most I've ever seen it read is 11kW.
Hi, great vid as always. Could you tell us about the smart part of your new installation, what information does it provide, what the app is like to use. Cheers!
Good vid Be interesting to know if in the newer chargers you can turn thd charger off from an app What's to stop someone charging their car while youre at work?
Another great video. Thanks! As it happens, I had the garage wired up for electricity this year and had a commando socket installed for the welder. It looks like Ohme do a commando to type 2 smart charger for £299 for Octopus customers, so I'll probably go for that. My welder needed an earth point and so I installed an 8 foot ground rod round the back of the garage, so hopefully if I need an earth point then that will do the job, otherwise i guess the mains earth will do. Come to think of it, the commando socket has it's own earth so there should be no need to use the welder earth.
Thank you for this information really helpful, two question how much was your total install, and what was the size of the armoured power cable 4mm or 6mm?
While existing domestic systems vary, it’s worth noting that some consumer units might need replacing, if they are a bit “out of date”, as it were, before connecting to them. A potential installer might advise (for whatever reason) that extra work is required before going ahead. W.r.t. the rating of the main fuse on the feed into one’s meter (and the meter itself), there is a degree of diversity of the potential total load; e.g. in my place (in Amps), the unrestricted unit has circuit breakers rated at 6,16,32,32,& 40 (126), and there is a restricted (7 hours overnight) connection which theoretically can all run at the same time - but it doesn’t, ‘cos the 40 is an electric shower, one of the 32s is a cooker, the other being a ring circuit etc, with the restricted being storage heaters. However, the main fuse is 100A. Normally, they are not all going to be used simultaneously. I guess one needs to do the sums, based on the likely pattern of use of the loads - in my place, it’s quite normal for it to be around 60 - 70 A on cold mornings during “night rate” hours, so if I was looking at EV charging added, I could be on the edge of it; if I wanted it, it would normally be used at “night rate”.
If or when I upgrade to a EV or a hybrid EV i am going to struggle with the charging, I live in a terraced house but with no driveway so my car would be up to 100 yards away if I am lucky enough to be able to park outside the garden. Is there a simply solution to this or am I going to be reliant on public charging, thanks for any ideas or help. Ian
Do I have to live in the same property as the one the charger is to be fitted in? I don't have off road parking myself but see my Mum most weeks, so could have a box fitted to her house and driveway! I realise there is always the ability to get it fitted privately but I would like to save on the cost if I can! It always seems as if EV's are only ever aimed at the middle earners and not meant for the Plebs, like me!
I’ve been thinking about an electric car but I live in a terrace house with no off road parking so how would I charge one as it seems impractical to be reliant on charge points in car parks etc and potentially expensive with some charging up to 64p per kw/h ?
say it is not hard is wrong - my sister is getting a ev and so far pod point which was the company the leasing picked so far has not gone any way to plan 1 - 1st fix day no one came no emails no phone calls took a week before they were forced to contact. 2 - 2nd fix day - phone call 15 min before arriving - once turned up looked at the consumer box and said could not connect to it and said the job was as he had listed all photos and measurements were sent company and fully told about cable run but all this was not as he was told and was completely wrong no waiting for 3rd fix date and if it will cost MORE it seems to be a rip off the photos showed all the info they needed
Very useful video as usual, electric board Ireland just announced 33 cent per kWh charges for the public charge network, roughly 29 pence going down like a lead balloon
Hi. I’m new to the EV thing but i do have a question about home chargers... what’s there to stop someone else plugging in to your home charger when you’re out? I’m guessing the only thing you can do is turn the charger off at the fuse box inside your property?
surprised to see that they did not used a plastic or metal pipe to feed the cable in outside portion of the installation it feel that it would be better protected especially when removing snow.
The OLEV grant will cover 75% of the cost up to a maximum of £500 so for example if the total cost is £660 you would pay the installer £160 and they would claim the £500 grant on your behalf. If the total install was £1500 you would pay £1000 and the installer would claim the £500 from OLEV. If the total cost was £500 you would pay £125 and the installer would claim £375 back.
Even for a 32Amp charge port (7.7kW) or 42Amp (for Teslas) you have to provide more ampacity than that because these loads are continuous and need an extra margin of safety (40A and 60A). These loads are going to overload a load analysis on a 60Amp service and probably even a 100Amp service.
@@garyharris8082 "Ampacity" is the rated capacity of the wiring. There are all different conditions involving heat, heat loss, application, wire size & type, insulation type, etc... that affect how much current can flow safely and efficiently. In this case, because the current can be flowing continuously (over two hours), then you have to derate the rating by 80% (for american NEC rules anyway). It can be very involved and is why you need a trained electrician to install stuff like this that involves serious power levels.
Greg if you’ve got a 100A service you can pull 100A all day long, it would be totally bonkers to fuse a service any differently. You probably want a 40A breaker on a 32A charger as otherwise you’re operating at the rating of the breaker which might not be best for the breaker and you may get annoyed with the nuisance trips.
Ah appologies I didn't realise you were using a US term and the US generally runs on higher current circuits. Regarding myself I am a qualified sparks (just retired) and used to design circuits. In the UK we work off 240v (there abouts) which on a 7.2kw load would be circa 30A so a 32A MCB or RCBO should hold that current continuosly providing other potential factors are covered off such as (but not limited to) a. the cable is overated and the design of the circuit takes into consideratation ambient and other local factors such a circuit grouping, length of circuit (to asccount for volt drop from the source) if not just increase the conductor sizing, b. The main fuse board in the house has the spare capacity to cover this extra load, c. The OP has at least 100A inncomer fuse in this instance unless it is a stand alone distribution ('fuse') box, d. Type of earthing solution to account for potential impeadance issues but this could be overcome with additional earth rods (if required), e. MCB's or RCBO's can cope with any potential surge currents i.e. the correct type of protection device is installed to protect the cable and cope with any short term surge, f. The rest of the house wiring is sound and doesn't have any earth leakage issues which unfortunately cause a lot of nuisance trips. with the above considered a 32A MCB/ RCBO should hold a 30A load all day long during normal operating parameters. If we go back say 15-20 years MCB's would likely trip but the design has got a lot better in the last few years. Note: impact of uprating any fuse solution is you have to up rate the conductor sizing as the condutors should always be able to carry more current than the device protecting it unless you want an electrical fire.
I'm starting my own EV accessories business here in the UK. What do you guys who have purchased EV's, look for in such a business? - instructions for buying chargers? - expert advisers on the other end of the phone? - what do current companies on the market lack? - specific accessories you have bought / are looking at buying? All help is much appreciated. Thanks
Great video! Thanks! I'm currently installing a new kitchen floor, once this is done I loose access to my consumer unit. What type of 'cable' should I run while the floor is up (so I have access for the future)?
Hi - perhaps put a 40mm flexible conduit in place so you can access at both end and then your Electrician can pull through the cable your site requires.
David's World That never happens and I’ve never heard of anyone saying it has. We’re talking £2-£4 of electric. If you want just flick the fuse to turn it off. It’s like worrying that someone is going to steal your water from an outside hose.
Mine was free with the OLEV grant but I had to pay about £300 for some mandatory preparatory work as there wasn't any "bonding". Works very well but was installed before the "smart-enabled" unit was a requirement although not a problem for me at the moment. Made sure I asked for the 7kW version for future-proofing even though my PHEV only charges at about 3.5kW. Half wish I'd gone for the tethered version.
Great informative reviews , have subscribed lol. Its through the review of the new MG ev i found you, which is now at a local garage to us, tempted to take the leap of faith !
because my fuse board was actually in the middle of my house and not on an outside wall we had to lift floorboards so that cable didn't get run along skirting. boards. so carpets needed relaying etc...ball ache
@@davidbowen790 I have a similar choice to make. I'll be digging up my patio so that I don't have a trailing cable between the house and the garden when the car is charging. There are two options way I see it: 1) Install a cable rated for the highest current your supply is rated for (100 Amps?) 2) Install a duct so that you can add a bigger or additional supply in the future. I'm probably going to do both! I want the higher rated cable as I think it's inevitable that I'll end up with 2 EVs. I want the duct so that I can have a separate circuit for lights and power in the garage and possibly a data cable so that I can install a NAS drive for computer back ups and possibly CCTV. Both will add to the cost, but are a hell of a lot cheaper than redoing the job in a couple of years. Even more important for you as you'd have to disturb your new kitchen - I'd just be digging an extra hole outside.
Tough choice between this and the Zappi. Went with Zappi as that’s more likely to be upgraded with intelligent tariffs than Ohme is with solar diversion.
You say that it would be idiotic to have something in the UK that didn't work in the rain. Well, my satellite internet (the version before StarLink) was interfered with regularly by fine, misty rain. Of course, it never rains in Wales, at all. Your point is well-made with regard to charging EVs though.
Can this be used for two different cars. Just seen an Ohme video saying that you have to tell the charger what car you have so it knows how much to charge to.
You’d have to swap it over in the app each time as it bases how much charge it gives on the current state of charge for the car. Get two chargers if possible. Grant works for up to 2.
Hi EVM, sorry if this is a dumb question. Is it better to use deals some manufacturers are offering on supplying a home charger if you buy their EV or go direct to a supplier yourself ? Thanks.
In the UK, a lot of people (landlords particularly) in older houses (pre-1930s) just install cheap electric showers. New builds usually have gas-fired instant water heaters (but, the Government is starting to talk about banning gas in new homes and going all-electric in order to reduce carbon emissions).
@@hobmoor2042 I had the choice when I had my bathroom done and opted for a 10.5 kWh electric shower (now replaced with a 9.5) as they are good enough and more economical of water and power. The cheaper low kWh showers are p-poor though.
anyone know where you can just buy the charger without going through the scheme? because you know these companies are just over charging to get the grant
Excellent vid in an apples for apples eaters manner. As to installation nightmares - not got one yet. But I envisage at least a 41m run. Including through an Edwardian tiled floor into a cellar; through two 460mm stone walls, plus another 680mm stone wall; taking up a paved-concrete garden path and relaying; through a 180mm breeze block wall; and finally the last 9m along the walls of a double garage. On the bright side, the earth rod if needed, won’t be a problem. I can get the cable new at list price, as a relative owns an electrical factors company. I can also complete most of running the cable through the cellar, the walls, the garden, etc. But I’m not sure if an installer would work with a cable supplied by a third party and thus lose money on not supplying said cable. If the installer insisted on all works being carried out by themselves. I suspect the total cost would be prohibitive, compared to having to rely on public chargers only, (The nearest of which is a 12mi/19.2km round trip and has always been ICEd.) Or maybe I should forego the future of the planet and just buy a secondhand dirty diesel... or then again, maybe not.
Hi, I can't speak for other installers but I know our in-house engineers regularly speak to customers who get some preparatory work done before we get involved. It helps to be kept in the loop of course, so there are not any surprises when we do the install. Visit our website or give us a call. We do the site survey online or via video call and costs are provided upfront for everything without needing to commit, so you can decide for yourself how much involvement you'd like. I'm the editor at Smart Home Charge though, so best speaking to one of engineers first! www.smarthomecharge.co.uk
Love to see "WALMART" have about 6+ charge stations near front or side of store. Walmart knows the Customer will have an hour+ to shop during the charge & we will know that if you go to Walmart to shop there will be charge stations too!
Just a small note - but the Company fuse enclosure saying 100 amps does not mean that the fuse inside is also 100 amps. It's just that the housing is rated to accept 100 amps. Inside it could be fitted with a lower fuse.
Always contact the DNO. fuse and cut out are nothing to do with the energy supplier. Secondly the fuse might be marked 100amps but doesn't necessarily mean there's a 100amp fuse installed they can take 80 and 60 amp.
When I got my Ioniq, Hyundai paid for a Pod-Point charger, so with the OLEV grant I got it for free. My garage is away from the house so I dug a culvert along the garden path before installation and paid £50 for the extra cable run. My advice is email the installers, send lots of photos of where you want it installing, and do as much preparatory work as you can. On the day, it went like a dream.
Glad to see UK subsidizing these installs...not so much here in my state in the good ole USA!!! Good job, added a sub. Like your style
Eric Johnson might be a little late but check with your electric company. I’m in GA and Georgia Power offers a $250 rebate if you install a level 2 charger.
When I had the charger fitted at the house my daughters' friend asked her why her dad had fitted a defibrillator.
OMG a NEWKILLER REACTOR!!! That sounds terrible, almost as bad as a nuclear reactor.
@@catscats50 umm a difribulater is to jumpstart a human having a heart attack. Nice try though. At least a nuclear reactor would charge your car super fast. You know before it melts into a puddle on the floor.
Hitstirrer - I think your daughters’ need a new friend.
@@dcvariousvids8082 She's fine. I had to admit that the wall charger does look a bit like one.
Some politicians want to give the vote to them.
If the DNO is limited supply you can either drop the charger rating to 18-22 amps depending on the charger or fit a changeover device if needed, the earth TT all depends on the readings to what is required rod wise, The TT earth makes the install easier as you're not sharing the houses PME, TT or whatever earthing system is used
PS. clean your gutters out (by the garage) i think we're in for a bad winter and that damp wall will cause issues
Went for an untethered as the PHEV still uses Type-1. Fitted one of those little plastic sockets (a few quid off flea-bay) and fixed the cable with a padlock. Acts as a tethered, but can swap it when I need to. 👍
Couldn’t agree more about tethered cables. So much quicker and more enjoyable to use every day.
Tethered makes sense for outdoor charging. For indoor charging a portable unit makes more sense for me. The evse easily unplugs and goes into the boot of my Honda Clarity for road trips.
For 6 years, I’ve used the charge point (EVSE) that came with my car. Just plug into any outlet.
I adapted it to level 2, but found level 1 does fine.
Now we have 2 EV’s, and although we have 2 EVSE’s, just 1 trickle charge does the job.
The biggest modification I’ve done is to clean out the garage. Keeps the car clean, warm, etc.
Changing the main fuse can be very easy. My installer had me check what capacity main fuse I had (before they started work) - and it was not clear what rating it had. I live in south Wales, so contacted Western Power (my DNO) and they came round promptly to check and upgrade it, no charge.
Great Video! I’m an Installer of EV Charging Points and also make TH-cam Videos. Your content was spot on and very informative. Great channel! Keep up the good work.
Did you notice top cable entry into charger and wiska box? Not great! Also earth looks undersized.
I wouldn't trust that Ohme unit to stay waterproof long-term with sunlight exposure. It relies on the sticky label on the front for sealing.
No it doesn’t, I took one apart and it’s got 6 screws.
@@ElectricVehicleMan The front label is the only seal preventing water getting in via the display window.
This came at a perfect time because I've got my first EV on order.
Well done! Well I say that my family haven't yet. I think we need to make the transition slowly so we may be going plug-in. But still, welcome to the world of EVs!
Brilliant and really helpful. Just ordered our first EV, and are going through the process of having a charge point installed. I’m no electrician either, but the info you provided has really simplified the process and made it much easier to understand.
Thanks
When my charger was fitted the position was limited as they could not install near an outside tap or a gas meter. The earth rod had to be within 5m (?) of the charger but I had gas and water supply under the drive which limited the position. Then when they inserted the rod it did not get an adequate earth so had to be moved another 5m (?) - with extra cable to hide. Ended up repositioning the charger completely. My installation was free as I was an Ovo customer and they did it as a promotion. Check it out . The installation 'engineers' were brilliant.
I used Smart Home Charge after watching this video. Guys who completed the install were great & did a good job. Admin team I would not rate as highly. I have a 60 amp inlet fuse, I tried to flag this up with the via phone and email before the install. The admin team said if needs attention we'll sort it. Then on day of install got told we are de-rating charger, you'll have to contact DNO. Let the know how annoyed I was as I tried to get this sorted 3 weeks ago, if I'd have been aware they didn't deal with DNO I would have done it myself. Generally poor communication from them.
Great guide and you covered the major points. Would have been interested in what was smart about the smart charger. I know some installations say you need a 3g signal for them. Not sure if that's still the case.
It’s smart in the same way a smart bulb or thermostat is.
@@ElectricVehicleMan Ah so it has an app :)
As the future of charging types is looking like ccs and type 2 , tethered type 2 is the future at home charging points , my opinion
EVM I had a Pod-Point 7 kW tethered home charger installed. It was all arranged free of charge by my local Nissan dealership. From application to install I only have to wait two days. Amazing! Pod-Point used a contractor to do the install and he was excellent. My only issue now is that I have a tethered type one connection. But I can’t have the cable swapped out for a type two if needed.
Ovo are doing a trial V to G and with a free charger and if you have solar panels even better. 17p for incoming and 26p for outgoing electric. A 2 year trial.
Just a word of advice regarding the main supply fuse at the cut-out. Don't assume that if it says 100A on there that it is actually a 100A fuse inside as these are generic labels used on thousands of cut-outs and the fuse could be 60A, 80A or 100A. Always contact you local DNO (distribution network operator) to get an engineer out to physically check. Another point I would like to make is since the introduction of recent smart charger, some chargers have something called a fuse saver or grid limit setting. This means they can be programmed so that the total power used in the house does not exceed the rating of the main fuse, for example 60A. This means your main fuse will not need upgrading as in effect the charger 'throttles back' the power if you are getting close to the fuse rating. Regards phil. OLEV approved installer.
At 5:25 the Henley block fuse holder may have a 100 amp LABEL but is it is the experience of myself and many sparks, that the fitted fuse is only a 60 amp. Great video - hadn't realised there are so many dump "Daily mail" stories about EV chargers.
My Lucy - Oxford isn't even marked with fuse rating.
I had mine put in the garage, so the car is not exposed to the weather & nor am I when plugging or unplugging the car!!
Excellent Video. Would you need a different charger if you changed from a ID3 to a tesla
As ususual a very good informative video. I actually went with an untethered cable and use the one that came with my 2nd gen Leaf. One reason was obviously the cost. Mine also has a key so that I can lock the charge point when I am not using it to stop someone else using my electricity for free to charge there car while I am work all day. The other reason I went for the non tethered cable was that should anything go wrong with the charger after the warranty period. I was informed that it would obviously cosy less to replace, and like you said in the video you already have a cable with the car so why go to the expense of paying for an extra one that can only be attached to the house. To be honest the extra 20 seconds it takes me to get out of the car walk round to the boot and pick up that cable is not that much of an inconvenience to be honest. :)
Thanks for producing all these great videos they are as I said really informative and have recommended them already to several friends, work colleagues and family.
Pete Lawrance
How long is the cable that came with you car? Many thanks.
Pam Hill I will measure it tomorrow for you, when it is hopefully not raining! 😊
Pam Hill have just measured the cable for you that came with my 2nd Gen Leaf and it is 6 meters. Longer than I thought to be honest. Hope that helps you make an informed decision Pam.
Pete Lawrance Thanks very much Pete, just to confirm that it’s a type 2 to type 2 cable, did it come with your new car in addition to the “granny” cable? I have ordered a Leaf on a lease deal but we will only get it at the end of September so am using this period to find out more about home charging. We always reverse into our drive so I guess the cable won’t be long enough to reach from the front wall where the charger will be mounted to the front of the car.
Pam Hill It is a type 2 to type 2 the one you need to use for the public charging posts. When I laid it out to measure it went from the front of the car and ¾ of the way back again. So yes it should reach from the front of your car to the wall box if you were to reverse as long as you are not to far away from the wall box. The Nissan Leaf is nearly 4.5 meters long so you should have over 1 meter spare taking in to account ½ the width of the car to get to the charge point 😊
I plugged in my V8 did not seem to make a difference
Just an observation, but if your main incoming cable is only protected by a sixty amp breaker (or fuse), you can't just stick a one hundred amp fuse in. The cable could well need uprating too.
David Chapman Thats what the experts who change the main fuse over would assess. No ones allowed to touch it other than them.
I got a leaf 4 years ago and a friend said wait and see if you actually need a dedicated 7 kw charger because the 3 kw "granny" plug was ok for him. However although it comes with a normal 13amp plug you should have a dedicated circuit for the charger not just plug into any old socket.
When i got the leaf 2 I got a free 7 watt charger and the price was right.
However I also have solar panels and I still use the granny plug because the solar power output is about 2.5 kw so I get more solar power into the battery albeit at half the rate.
thanks for you video, what I'm trying to find out is i have garage at the end of my garden which is on property land but far from the building. can these outlets be installed in the garage and will they installers be able to trace the electrical line to the garage if there is no power in the garage.
I've just ordered my first hybrid SUV ford Kuga 2.5 plugin hybrid so looking to install a charging point, thanks as I know nothing about installing one
Have you considered (if possible) to have a full roof of panels and a storage system? Thus avoiding all the electricity costs and the other costs.. Plus avoiding the government asking for extra tax for EV electricity (not yet but they will, be sure of it)....
If you can give me the £13,000 to install it then yes.
It’s amazing how far the fossil fuel and ICE industries will go to slow the adoption of EV’s. The safety concerns you mentioned at the start of the video had to come from somewhere. Individuals that bring these concerns up, got them from misinformation campaigns.
you prolly dont give a damn but does any of you know a trick to log back into an Instagram account..?
I stupidly forgot my login password. I love any assistance you can give me.
@Hugo Carmelo Instablaster ;)
@Dayton Denver i really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm in the hacking process now.
Seems to take quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Dayton Denver It did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D
Thanks so much, you saved my account !
@Hugo Carmelo No problem xD
I've heard not all charge points these days need the ground rod. I think I'm going to look for a charge point that doesn't need that extra cable and rod.
An earthing rod may not be needed, it depends on the charger design. For example the zappi from myenergi has a self contained circuit breaker complying with the latest standards which makes an earthing rod unnecessary. (Just in case some people don't want to dig a hole in the drive). I'm also surprised that an electrician allowed you to have a power cable in the drain without any protection!
It’s an armoured cable.
Thanks for a very useful video. Would be interested in hearing why you chose the Ohme charger and how you rate it and your Octopus tariff.
That video is on its way.
Find out if your house has a shared loop supply, your electricity suppler can tell you this, I did and it had to be changed if I wanted a charger!
just deciding whether to bother with a charger, we have an outside socket on the front of the house which we use to charge the car... plug it in most nights, charged by morning
@@garbon73 Which bit is not designed for constant loading? The Wire, the socket, the charger?
I've been charging my smart on a 13 amp socket since purchase in July, but there are draw backs to this, first you can't preheat or cool the car as effectively as with a 7kw charger, then there is the worry of theft of the charger lead (I park on the front of the House and am not allowed by the council to fence the frontage) the reasons I decided to go for a tethered lead.
I've a really challenging install problem, Consumer unit at front of a mid terrace house, parking at rear. Been charging via 3-pin as an OLEV install would be too costly, suffices for my daily driving needs. 2 kW x 4 miles/kWh x E7 = 56 miles. 3-pin is left installed as a 'tethered' supply.
As i understand a smart charger can be turned down by your power supplier in times of hi demand, If you plug in your car and your battery is near to empty and its a high capacity battery you could find your battery is not charged to the level you might have expected the following morning. Is this a good reason to go for a non smart charger
As most cars are charged at night when there is never high demand it's hardly a problem.
My smart charger ( Kaluza / ChargedEV ) has an override button for instant charge if you need it before the next morning. This will eliminate the problem.
I can’t believe that you don’t have to run your wires inside of a conduit. You have it so easy!
Which cable?
Electric Vehicle Man The one that is running to your outdoor car charger. Over here we have to overdo everything. 😂 I like your way much better. I really like your electrical outlets, big and powerful!
I was not criticizing anything, just pointing out the differences between different areas. I find it fascinating when I travel to compare different systems.
@@mitchellbarnow1709 It's steel-wire armoured cable, designed for direct burial. I think our regs do require additional protection where there is a plausible risk of physical damage.
mikeselectricstuff Thank you so much, Mike
Hi mate. My situation is different bit.I live with my family in a hospital accomodation ( 2 bed flat). I am a male nurse. The residential parking is very close to the our block ( there are are 3 blocks in total). Parking spaces are marked according to flat or room number but we can park wherever we find a free space, currently. I live on the 2nd floor and even though I could use a 25m extension, I am a bit reluctant( even though bills are includes in the rent and its fixed monthlt basis). I have a neighbour on the ground floor with a 330e bmw and I have purchased recently an used Outlander Phev. My daily commute is in general mainly 7 miles to 7 miles from work ( same NHS trust but different hospital). He doesnt uses his since he starts later than me and finished earlier so shuttle bus available beyween sites so basically he uses his car weekends). I do long days and nights ( 12 to 13 hrs shifts) with charging point at work ( Newmotion 20p /kwh). Advice please!!!
Wouldn’t do anything in rented accommodation regards an installation.
How are you finding the Ohme smart charger? Would love to see a video on that.
I thinking you must already have a grondkable installed, can you not use that one?
I have solar panels with an inverter and a Li Ion battery pack.How does this work with solar dc. The house uses the inverter to ac. I get that but is there another inverter in the car for ac to dc? Is it possible to get solar dc directly to the car? Am I missing something here?
Great guide, just one other point to take into consideration when working out the Charger placement is to make sure you're able to reverse into your driveway (Highway code Rule 201).
Have notice that your ohme is now moved to inside of your garage. just want to know any advantages of putting it inside?
So it could reach the Tesla when it was reversed into the garage.
Good video, thanks. I don't understand why an Earth rod is needed; surely the supply cable has an Earth conductor in the cable that can go back to the consumer unit which has a good Earth back to the incoming mains supply?
They changed the rules in July this year but not all need one.
Not all homes are supplied with a separate earth supply cable some use the neutral as the earth return, so in case of a neutral cable fault which leaves you unprotected an earth rod is required maybe even two.
Well explained however what happens if you are renting the property that you live in?
That’s allowed too.
@@ElectricVehicleMan The landlord may agree however if one moves then you have the additional costs thereof which few explain what that would be
Surprised it needs a local earth. Is your house a TT installation? I'd expect it just to be earthed back to the CU/meter and thus use the same earth as the rest of the house.
My "fuse box" is inside the house, in a small (only slightly bigger than fuse-box-sized) box on the wall of our dining room. When I eventually get my EV, I want my charge point basically on the other side of the wall from the fuse box. The electric meter itself is in a cabinet-thingy on the outside of the same wall, just by where I would want the charger-point. No way would the wife let me have a huge extra box on the wall in the dining room for that additional fuse just for the charge point. Any idea on what other locations or whatever might be possible for that extra charger-fuse? Could it be put *inside* the meter-cabinet that is outside the house for example?
Been having huge difficulty getting charge point installed. Basically, no proper information, or any advice from the company regarding routing of the cabling, and it was only when I had to get an electrician in to sort out another problem and he suggested routing it around the back of my house where it wouldn't be visible, that I realised this would make much more sense (aesthetically). But still arguing with the company I chose, who have now been paid for this work over a month, but still no point installed. The whole process has been very frustrating, and I don't think the industry is doing anything like enough to really help the customer. The car companies just want to flog you an expensive motor, and the chargepoint companies with the huge range of charges, the different sockets, and the differentials in cost, and the fact that they expect the customer to understand exactly what it takes has been hugely frustrating. It's a bit late for me, but hopefully when EVs are more common there might be a bit more standardisation and more help for the customer.
Or a converter for the type 2 car?
I have a 63A main fuse; installer said (three years ago) the electric company might contact me and swap it for 100A, but they haven't. I do have very little on the electrics though - all gas cooker and hob, gas combi boiler. No electric cooker, no electric shower - the thing that draws the most current in the house is the kettle! I have one of those energy monitor things; most I've ever seen it read is 11kW.
Correction fwiw - mine's an 80A main fuse. No idea where I got the 63A idea from!
Hi, great vid as always. Could you tell us about the smart part of your new installation, what information does it provide, what the app is like to use. Cheers!
Good vid Be interesting to know if in the newer chargers you can turn thd charger off from an app
What's to stop someone charging their car while youre at work?
The same thing that stops someone borrowing your drive to park onto, or borrowing your water hose. It never happens.
im inshallah buying leaf 2018 can you recommend specific home charger
Go-e charger from Österreich?
Another great video. Thanks! As it happens, I had the garage wired up for electricity this year and had a commando socket installed for the welder. It looks like Ohme do a commando to type 2 smart charger for £299 for Octopus customers, so I'll probably go for that. My welder needed an earth point and so I installed an 8 foot ground rod round the back of the garage, so hopefully if I need an earth point then that will do the job, otherwise i guess the mains earth will do. Come to think of it, the commando socket has it's own earth so there should be no need to use the welder earth.
Thank you for this information really helpful, two question how much was your total install, and what was the size of the armoured power cable 4mm or 6mm?
While existing domestic systems vary, it’s worth noting that some consumer units might need replacing, if they are a bit “out of date”, as it were, before connecting to them. A potential installer might advise (for whatever reason) that extra work is required before going ahead.
W.r.t. the rating of the main fuse on the feed into one’s meter (and the meter itself), there is a degree of diversity of the potential total load; e.g. in my place (in Amps), the unrestricted unit has circuit breakers rated at 6,16,32,32,& 40 (126), and there is a restricted (7 hours overnight) connection which theoretically can all run at the same time - but it doesn’t, ‘cos the 40 is an electric shower, one of the 32s is a cooker, the other being a ring circuit etc, with the restricted being storage heaters. However, the main fuse is 100A. Normally, they are not all going to be used simultaneously.
I guess one needs to do the sums, based on the likely pattern of use of the loads - in my place, it’s quite normal for it to be around 60 - 70 A on cold mornings during “night rate” hours, so if I was looking at EV charging added, I could be on the edge of it; if I wanted it, it would normally be used at “night rate”.
My DNO (SSEN) took 10 weeks to approve mine.
If or when I upgrade to a EV or a hybrid EV i am going to struggle with the charging, I live in a terraced house but with no driveway so my car would be up to 100 yards away if I am lucky enough to be able to park outside the garden.
Is there a simply solution to this or am I going to be reliant on public charging, thanks for any ideas or help.
Ian
I think I will not get a captive cable, I worry about the issues if it gets damaged
Whats the procedure if you move house ? Will they remove and locate to new property?
You can pay an electrician to do anything.
Do I have to live in the same property as the one the charger is to be fitted in? I don't have off road parking myself but see my Mum most weeks, so could have a box fitted to her house and driveway! I realise there is always the ability to get it fitted privately but I would like to save on the cost if I can! It always seems as if EV's are only ever aimed at the middle earners and not meant for the Plebs, like me!
Can you get chargers that will charge 2 ev cars at the same time or is this not possible??
Skymansteve Commercial ones exist, be easier and more flexible to just have two tbh.
Can you get chargers that can charge two cars at the same time?
I’ve been thinking about an electric car but I live in a terrace house with no off road parking so how would I charge one as it seems impractical to be reliant on charge points in car parks etc and potentially expensive with some charging up to 64p per kw/h ?
say it is not hard is wrong - my sister is getting a ev and so far pod point which was the company the leasing picked so far has not gone any way to plan
1 - 1st fix day no one came no emails no phone calls took a week before they were forced to contact.
2 - 2nd fix day - phone call 15 min before arriving - once turned up looked at the consumer box and said could not connect to it and said the job was as he had listed
all photos and measurements were sent company and fully told about cable run but all this was not as he was told and was completely wrong
no waiting for 3rd fix date and if it will cost MORE it seems to be a rip off
the photos showed all the info they needed
David's World That’s the company more than the process. Ask for another.
Thanks for a great video which has helped me start to do some planning!
Does it always rain in Yorkshire or do you just do your videos on rainy days?
Very useful video as usual, electric board Ireland just announced 33 cent per kWh charges for the public charge network, roughly 29 pence going down like a lead balloon
A really useful video. I can't imagine why there are 12 thumbs down votes.
Hi. I’m new to the EV thing but i do have a question about home chargers... what’s there to stop someone else plugging in to your home charger when you’re out? I’m guessing the only thing you can do is turn the charger off at the fuse box inside your property?
Literally never happens anymore than it does with an outside rap or plug socket.
Any thoughts on V2G charge point?
surprised to see that they did not used a plastic or metal pipe to feed the cable in outside portion of the installation it feel that it would be better protected especially when removing snow.
V10PDTDI It’s an armoured cable.
How much did it cost? How much grant did you get to cover the cost?
Depends on the charger you get. Smart Home Charges website gives you pricing.
The OLEV grant will cover 75% of the cost up to a maximum of £500 so for example if the total cost is £660 you would pay the installer £160 and they would claim the £500 grant on your behalf. If the total install was £1500 you would pay £1000 and the installer would claim the £500 from OLEV. If the total cost was £500 you would pay £125 and the installer would claim £375 back.
I'm in a ground floor council flat 30 mtrs from the road, there isn't designated parking, what are my options?
Derek Carroll Public charging or moving I’m afraid.
Even for a 32Amp charge port (7.7kW) or 42Amp (for Teslas) you have to provide more ampacity than that because these loads are continuous and need an extra margin of safety (40A and 60A). These loads are going to overload a load analysis on a 60Amp service and probably even a 100Amp service.
what the heck is ampacity?
@@garyharris8082 "Ampacity" is the rated capacity of the wiring. There are all different conditions involving heat, heat loss, application, wire size & type, insulation type, etc... that affect how much current can flow safely and efficiently. In this case, because the current can be flowing continuously (over two hours), then you have to derate the rating by 80% (for american NEC rules anyway). It can be very involved and is why you need a trained electrician to install stuff like this that involves serious power levels.
Greg if you’ve got a 100A service you can pull 100A all day long, it would be totally bonkers to fuse a service any differently.
You probably want a 40A breaker on a 32A charger as otherwise you’re operating at the rating of the breaker which might not be best for the breaker and you may get annoyed with the nuisance trips.
Ah appologies I didn't realise you were using a US term and the US generally runs on higher current circuits.
Regarding myself I am a qualified sparks (just retired) and used to design circuits. In the UK we work off 240v (there abouts) which on a 7.2kw load would be circa 30A so a 32A MCB or RCBO should hold that current continuosly providing other potential factors are covered off such as (but not limited to)
a. the cable is overated and the design of the circuit takes into consideratation ambient and other local factors such a circuit grouping, length of circuit (to asccount for volt drop from the source) if not just increase the conductor sizing,
b. The main fuse board in the house has the spare capacity to cover this extra load,
c. The OP has at least 100A inncomer fuse in this instance unless it is a stand alone distribution ('fuse') box,
d. Type of earthing solution to account for potential impeadance issues but this could be overcome with additional earth rods (if required),
e. MCB's or RCBO's can cope with any potential surge currents i.e. the correct type of protection device is installed to protect the cable and cope with any short term surge,
f. The rest of the house wiring is sound and doesn't have any earth leakage issues which unfortunately cause a lot of nuisance trips.
with the above considered a 32A MCB/ RCBO should hold a 30A load all day long during normal operating parameters. If we go back say 15-20 years MCB's would likely trip but the design has got a lot better in the last few years. Note: impact of uprating any fuse solution is you have to up rate the conductor sizing as the condutors should always be able to carry more current than the device protecting it unless you want an electrical fire.
A decent firm would have found discrete solutions to getting the cable where you wanted it.
That was 5 years ago and what would you suggest? Saying it doesn't make something happen, especially at the standard price.
I see that you did not mention security of the point of charging and access of others to it.
laith Abdul-Aziz Not a concern, never happens.
I'm starting my own EV accessories business here in the UK.
What do you guys who have purchased EV's, look for in such a business?
- instructions for buying chargers?
- expert advisers on the other end of the phone?
- what do current companies on the market lack?
- specific accessories you have bought / are looking at buying?
All help is much appreciated.
Thanks
Great video! Thanks!
I'm currently installing a new kitchen floor, once this is done I loose access to my consumer unit.
What type of 'cable' should I run while the floor is up (so I have access for the future)?
Hi - perhaps put a 40mm flexible conduit in place so you can access at both end and then your Electrician can pull through the cable your site requires.
how about charge cable lock what stops any person parking there car when away to work all day or on holiday charging there car at your charger
David's World That never happens and I’ve never heard of anyone saying it has. We’re talking £2-£4 of electric. If you want just flick the fuse to turn it off. It’s like worrying that someone is going to steal your water from an outside hose.
Would be interesting to know how much it costs. I’m looking into buying my first electric car and I have no idea about the associated costs.
Look at the website in the description. Got prices there.
Got mine for £150 with the subsidy scheme :-)
Mine was free with the OLEV grant but I had to pay about £300 for some mandatory preparatory work as there wasn't any "bonding". Works very well but was installed before the "smart-enabled" unit was a requirement although not a problem for me at the moment. Made sure I asked for the 7kW version for future-proofing even though my PHEV only charges at about 3.5kW. Half wish I'd gone for the tethered version.
Great informative reviews , have subscribed lol. Its through the review of the new MG ev i found you, which is now at a local garage to us, tempted to take the leap of faith !
because my fuse board was actually in the middle of my house and not on an outside wall we had to lift floorboards so that cable didn't get run along skirting. boards. so carpets needed relaying etc...ball ache
I'm in the same position, I have the floor up for a kitchen project, so want to throw a cable in now... What size did you use?
@@davidbowen790 I have a similar choice to make. I'll be digging up my patio so that I don't have a trailing cable between the house and the garden when the car is charging. There are two options way I see it:
1) Install a cable rated for the highest current your supply is rated for (100 Amps?)
2) Install a duct so that you can add a bigger or additional supply in the future.
I'm probably going to do both! I want the higher rated cable as I think it's inevitable that I'll end up with 2 EVs. I want the duct so that I can have a separate circuit for lights and power in the garage and possibly a data cable so that I can install a NAS drive for computer back ups and possibly CCTV.
Both will add to the cost, but are a hell of a lot cheaper than redoing the job in a couple of years. Even more important for you as you'd have to disturb your new kitchen - I'd just be digging an extra hole outside.
Tough choice between this and the Zappi. Went with Zappi as that’s more likely to be upgraded with intelligent tariffs than Ohme is with solar diversion.
Always wondered, what stops me charging my car at your charge point?
Iso Confused The same thing that stops people borrowing an outside tap, a smack in the face. You can get ones with locks but it never happens.
@@ElectricVehicleMan oh bit disappointed then, that there is no smart link or something... its 2020 :P Guess you can turn off at your board switch.
I have mine listed on a app, so that others can use it. Please feel free anytime you’re in Texas.
Fantastic video, you have explained it really well, next time I see you, you'll have a real L.A. tan. PS - I already a subscriber.👍
Is that the mew OHME Intelligent Wall Charger or the smart cable? I'm really interested in the standalone charger because of its size!
You say that it would be idiotic to have something in the UK that didn't work in the rain. Well, my satellite internet (the version before StarLink) was interfered with regularly by fine, misty rain. Of course, it never rains in Wales, at all. Your point is well-made with regard to charging EVs though.
That doesn’t work well in rain as opposed to ‘is dangerous’ in the rain.
Can this be used for two different cars. Just seen an Ohme video saying that you have to tell the charger what car you have so it knows how much to charge to.
You’d have to swap it over in the app each time as it bases how much charge it gives on the current state of charge for the car.
Get two chargers if possible. Grant works for up to 2.
If the charger is mounted outside of the house. How do you avoid someone you don’t know using your charger and sticking you with their charge bill?
dan simmons How do you know someone doesn’t do the same with an outside water tap? It literally never happens.
Electric Vehicle Man, very true, I was just wondering is there a way to “lock” it so doesn’t happen. Like a smart plug feature.
Hi EVM, sorry if this is a dumb question. Is it better to use deals some manufacturers are offering on supplying a home charger if you buy their EV or go direct to a supplier yourself ? Thanks.
Whichever is cheaper. Get what you pay for though!
Are people in the UK still using those awful instant hot water electric showers? I have some awful memories of these showers....
Yes, becuase old houses and cheap landlords
If you get a 6.5 kWh electric shower it's a bit pathetic a 9.5 kWh shower is fine unless you are a fat fuck who needs to waste more hot water.
In the UK, a lot of people (landlords particularly) in older houses (pre-1930s) just install cheap electric showers. New builds usually have gas-fired instant water heaters (but, the Government is starting to talk about banning gas in new homes and going all-electric in order to reduce carbon emissions).
@@hobmoor2042 I had the choice when I had my bathroom done and opted for a 10.5 kWh electric shower (now replaced with a 9.5) as they are good enough and more economical of water and power. The cheaper low kWh showers are p-poor though.
I have a boiler fed gas one.
anyone know where you can just buy the charger without going through the scheme? because you know these companies are just over charging to get the grant
It’ll cost you more so why bother.
Excellent vid in an apples for apples eaters manner.
As to installation nightmares - not got one yet. But I envisage at least a 41m run. Including through an Edwardian tiled floor into a cellar; through two 460mm stone walls, plus another 680mm stone wall; taking up a paved-concrete garden path and relaying; through a 180mm breeze block wall; and finally the last 9m along the walls of a double garage.
On the bright side, the earth rod if needed, won’t be a problem.
I can get the cable new at list price, as a relative owns an electrical factors company. I can also complete most of running the cable through the cellar, the walls, the garden, etc. But I’m not sure if an installer would work with a cable supplied by a third party and thus lose money on not supplying said cable.
If the installer insisted on all works being carried out by themselves. I suspect the total cost would be prohibitive, compared to having to rely on public chargers only, (The nearest of which is a 12mi/19.2km round trip and has always been ICEd.)
Or maybe I should forego the future of the planet and just buy a secondhand dirty diesel... or then again, maybe not.
Hi, I can't speak for other installers but I know our in-house engineers regularly speak to customers who get some preparatory work done before we get involved.
It helps to be kept in the loop of course, so there are not any surprises when we do the install.
Visit our website or give us a call. We do the site survey online or via video call and costs are provided upfront for everything without needing to commit, so you can decide for yourself how much involvement you'd like.
I'm the editor at Smart Home Charge though, so best speaking to one of engineers first!
www.smarthomecharge.co.uk
Danny Morgan - Thank you for your reply. This I find most encouraging.
If you need your main fuse upgrading it will always be the DNO that will do that, not your energy supplier, as it is their property.
Some DNOs have been asking for the energy company to refer it. Either way it’s gets you to where you need to go.
Love to see "WALMART" have about 6+ charge stations near front or side of store. Walmart knows the Customer will have an hour+ to shop during the charge & we will know that if you go to Walmart to shop there will be charge stations too!
I've been thinking about mass availability of car charging and supermarkets are the obvious choice. Everyone goes there once a week for an hour.
YES~& Supermarkets ~ Hope they pick-up on this.
Maybe best not have your security equipment location in shot :)
Especially if some dodgy installer didn't put a sensor in the garage!