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Nice quality video. Lighting, etc. Since you were asking for comments, here’s my .02. After cutting the filter housing, I take it over to a big empty table and after razorblading both sides of the media, I sit down and carefully and slowly pull it out in handfuls using my 4 fingers making sure I contain any possible contaminants, then slowly extend it out on the table in two pieces for inspection. If you pull it out accordion-style you could trampoline any metal captured, especially if it’s dry from draining overnight. One more dumb little habit I have is to do the leak-check out of the sun. Cheers.
I’m not a trained mechanic but do my own oil changes on my own experimental/amateur-built (Canadian rules). In addition to what already has been mentioned, I don’t allow the aircraft to be facing anything close by (your open hangar in this case) in case the plane moves forward (too much fuel, throttle cable or brake failure) on engine start etc. Prop-wash is a concern too but you did good in that regard. What side of the filter media do you think you will find any metal? You should have better lighting all around when working on the engine and when examining the oil filter media. Check that all tools are accounted for before closing up the engine cowlings. Nice tutorial and format. Thank you!
Not an A&P, but you did some things differently than I would (being really nit-picky here): 1. Wipe that quick drain off thoroughly so it doesn't drip oil 2. You called it: you used the torque wrench for loosening when you had another ratchet 3. Personal preference: towel stuffed in the clean side of the adapter is too much FOD risk for me. Just rest the towel on top 4. Pre-cut the safety wire to length: on a Bonanza, measure the wire from the fuselage along the wingspan to the point where the chord changes (the "kink") in the wing 5. Instead of starting the twist with the pliers, use your hands to set the first turns of the wire close to the base. Then use the pliers to run it down. Also wrap the end of the wire loosely around the pliers so it doesn't whip around (AC 43-13) 6. You may have done it: wipe the gasket mating surface to remove any gunk 7. You installed a Tempest Spin-EZ filter which says in giant letters NOT to apply oil or DC-4 to the filter gasket. The gasket is coated with an anti-stick compound already 8. Not a mistake, but I was always told gasket contact plus 3/4 turn. Regardless, you did the right thing by using a torque wrench (but the value is thrown off by the fact that you lubed the gasket) 9. After running the wire through the tab, pull it tight with the pliers: "... safety wire must be tight after installation" (AC 43-13). Then start the twist by hand, then use the pliers 10. After you cut the filter, you start looking at the wrong side of the media! The dirt is on the outside 11. Piling on: doing a run-up without removing the tug seems real bad 12. Not a mistake, but I like to get an inspection mirror under the filter gasket to see if it's weeping after the run-up edit 13. I don't know how your torque wrench works, but didn't you hit 16 ft-lbs on the first green light, and then kept turning it until it went red (over)? Overall though, mostly correct!
I hope you didn't make too many mistakes, because your process is pretty close to the way that I do it on my A36. When putting the oil filter back on, I put it on hand tight, then back it off, then go back to hand tight before doing the quarter turn. This seems to lubricate the surfaces, though after watching this I'm going to need to put a torque wrench on there to confirm. One thing I would not do is do the run-up with the tug still attached. I don't have any experience with that tug, but it seems like a really expensive mistake if the nose wheel were to pop out of the cradle on the tug.
@keltylanham4994 LOL We were waiting for someone to mention that. It's not good practice. We do keep it on the tug a lot because its like a chalk. But we also put a chalk on main gear. The prop is not closer to the tug and it is to the ground when off the tug.
@@e3aviationassociation I think I just have some tug envy. My bigger concern was stress on the tug rather than the prop, it looks like you have plenty of clearance.
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Hope you liked this aviation video. PLEASE... If you found this video helpful or informative, please give it a like, share it with someone who might benefit, and consider subscribing for more content like this. Thanks for being part of our community! You can also get a free E3 Account at www.e3aviationAssociation.com
Nice quality video. Lighting, etc. Since you were asking for comments, here’s my .02. After cutting the filter housing, I take it over to a big empty table and after razorblading both sides of the media, I sit down and carefully and slowly pull it out in handfuls using my 4 fingers making sure I contain any possible contaminants, then slowly extend it out on the table in two pieces for inspection. If you pull it out accordion-style you could trampoline any metal captured, especially if it’s dry from draining overnight. One more dumb little habit I have is to do the leak-check out of the sun. Cheers.
I’m not a trained mechanic but do my own oil changes on my own experimental/amateur-built (Canadian rules). In addition to what already has been mentioned, I don’t allow the aircraft to be facing anything close by (your open hangar in this case) in case the plane moves forward (too much fuel, throttle cable or brake failure) on engine start etc. Prop-wash is a concern too but you did good in that regard.
What side of the filter media do you think you will find any metal?
You should have better lighting all around when working on the engine and when examining the oil filter media.
Check that all tools are accounted for before closing up the engine cowlings.
Nice tutorial and format. Thank you!
Hey @bevant9218 Thanks for sharing. 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Not an A&P, but you did some things differently than I would (being really nit-picky here):
1. Wipe that quick drain off thoroughly so it doesn't drip oil
2. You called it: you used the torque wrench for loosening when you had another ratchet
3. Personal preference: towel stuffed in the clean side of the adapter is too much FOD risk for me. Just rest the towel on top
4. Pre-cut the safety wire to length: on a Bonanza, measure the wire from the fuselage along the wingspan to the point where the chord changes (the "kink") in the wing
5. Instead of starting the twist with the pliers, use your hands to set the first turns of the wire close to the base. Then use the pliers to run it down. Also wrap the end of the wire loosely around the pliers so it doesn't whip around (AC 43-13)
6. You may have done it: wipe the gasket mating surface to remove any gunk
7. You installed a Tempest Spin-EZ filter which says in giant letters NOT to apply oil or DC-4 to the filter gasket. The gasket is coated with an anti-stick compound already
8. Not a mistake, but I was always told gasket contact plus 3/4 turn. Regardless, you did the right thing by using a torque wrench (but the value is thrown off by the fact that you lubed the gasket)
9. After running the wire through the tab, pull it tight with the pliers: "... safety wire must be tight after installation" (AC 43-13). Then start the twist by hand, then use the pliers
10. After you cut the filter, you start looking at the wrong side of the media! The dirt is on the outside
11. Piling on: doing a run-up without removing the tug seems real bad
12. Not a mistake, but I like to get an inspection mirror under the filter gasket to see if it's weeping after the run-up
edit 13. I don't know how your torque wrench works, but didn't you hit 16 ft-lbs on the first green light, and then kept turning it until it went red (over)?
Overall though, mostly correct!
XC oil is missing the Lycoming additives?
I need a cart like that...
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Love that Lemon Pledge!!!! If you know you know 😊
Hey @daflyingfoodieaviationvide1925 Thanks for sharing. 👍👍👍👍👍👍 Yes id does wonders on the windshield.
How many twists on the safety wire are you doing?
8 twists per inch is what we go for. Then 1 inch twisted tail.
I hope you didn't make too many mistakes, because your process is pretty close to the way that I do it on my A36. When putting the oil filter back on, I put it on hand tight, then back it off, then go back to hand tight before doing the quarter turn. This seems to lubricate the surfaces, though after watching this I'm going to need to put a torque wrench on there to confirm.
One thing I would not do is do the run-up with the tug still attached. I don't have any experience with that tug, but it seems like a really expensive mistake if the nose wheel were to pop out of the cradle on the tug.
@keltylanham4994 LOL We were waiting for someone to mention that. It's not good practice. We do keep it on the tug a lot because its like a chalk. But we also put a chalk on main gear. The prop is not closer to the tug and it is to the ground when off the tug.
@@e3aviationassociation I think I just have some tug envy. My bigger concern was stress on the tug rather than the prop, it looks like you have plenty of clearance.
Working with safety wire without safety glasses - setting a bad example.
Yes. Good call. We had a few people pick up on that one. Thanks for the input.
Seems to me the biggest mistake is having the 3rd wheel on the wrong end of the plane 😛
Have some of those as well. Check out our Extra 300 and carbon cub
I’m not smart enough to spot the mistakes, as I’ve never changed oil in our plane…
Does the comment still count?
Sure
No gloves