I was taught as a kid: You want to stop turning the wrench before it gets easy again. Some of the worst things happen right after you say: "just a little bit more". Watching someone else change the oil is fun. Thanks, Scott.
Scott - I saw a suggestion on ABS about spinning the prop backwards about 30 blades, (10 revolutions on a 3 blade prop) after punching the hole into the oil filter. Your sequence of punching the hole in the oil filter, then open the drain (sure hope you have a quick drain installed) and finally starting the counterclockwise rotation of the three-blade propellor 30 times. You are basically removing the oil from the filter element via the oil pump going in the opposite direction. I suggest putting a shop rag around the bottom of the filter, as there always seems to be a small amount of oil remaining in the filter if you want to finish the job all at once. If you live at the airport, certainly put a hole in the filter, then start draining the sump oil, and let the plane drain overnight is a great way also. Hurrah for the lucky folks whose plane lives right next door. But for the other folks who want to start and finish the job in one sitting, the above technique also works! Some folks are fearful of turning the engine backward and feel it could damage the vacuum (pressure) pump. I have been doing it that way for over 20 years and have not damaged a vacuum (pressure) pump. Thanks for all you do for General Aviation!
When I change my oil, I put 2 holes in the oil filter.. One as close to center as shown in this video, the other as close to the outer ring of the filter.. I don't have the oil mess that he did on this video.. Also, the correct diameter drain hose makes attaching the hose to the oil drain nipple a lot easier. When I safety wire the filter, I like to wrap it halfway around the filter.. And I use a funnel to put the oil in.. Cuts down on the mess of trying to stick the neck of the oil can in to the filler neck. Just a bit different technique.
If you are going to do your own oil change it will probably save you at least a $100 dollars. But Scott forgot to mention a couple other items you will need. One is safety wire .032 is the most common and a pair of safety wire pliers.
You have managed to trigger another road story... Lol - unfortunately, the writing of it is turning into a small novella. Suffice it to say I hideously lost an engine in a new car when an oil filter leaked. It was found with a hole in it, and was thought to be defective. The oil company towed the car a million miles and had a brand new short block installed. Bless them! They flew me to Denver to pick up the car, took me to lunch, Queen Nefertiti at 19 years old. Omg - a couple months later the same problem started to happen again. I discovered it by the grace of the 4 Winds - Cause? An engine heater improperly installed, banged on the filter with every bump, wearing a hole in it!
Toss-up. This video versus a 17 minute Joe Walsh video on how to properly set-up and tune a Gibson Les Paul guitar. Both are informative and make you think. Plus, is anything really more important than an oil change done correctly and in a timely fashion or a proper guitar set-up for the best results when playing out?
Scott, if more people expended the time and energy you do on the basics we would all benefit and it takes people with experience like you to emphasize things like proper and periodic maintenance lessons to less experienced aviators. In the Air Force we always put a strong emphasis on the basics and I know you had to have safety preached constantly through your UPT days in the Air Force.
Thanks Scott, one suggestion would of course be to run the aircraft afterwards to ensure that there are no oil leaks and that clean oil is moved back into the galleries to dilute the oil that always get left behind. Of course doing any job is more fun on a Skywagon ;-)
Graeme- Of course you are right. But it was a rainy day when I filmed this and I was just going to wait until it was clear to do a test run. Skywagon's are much easier to change the oil on!
Great video Scott. I regularly change mine as well and would recommend prior to removing the oil filter you stuff a rag under it. Simple, but it prevents the small amount of oil that drains out of the filter from falling down on your engine components. I would also recommend doing regular oil samples (I use Blackstone Labs) and have them analyzed each oil change. Might be worthwhile to mention to your viewers how to do an engine logbook entry as well. I like your GAMI SPEC engine. :-)
Just done my first oil change on my new (to me) 1978 A36. I cant get to the top on my filter ( heat exchanger pipes, etc)...certainly cant get a socket/ torque wrench in there. So my other tip, developed today! To make sure i do 1/4 turn on top of the hand tight position.....i draw on the filter ( 2 lines Nd an arrow) vs a datum, so 10+ tiny turns later .....i know i have done the job...and not over done it.
From 20 years on active duty working on 18's & 60's, the last thing I would ever even think of doing is tinkering with another a/c or even auto.... I'm completely DONE getting my hands dirty, getting safety wire stuck through my fingers, spending hours standing on my head, with my legs dangling out of a cockpit, while I change a lateral stick transducer on a pitching & rolling flight deck, so much grease & oil under my finger tips you have to use JP5 to even attempt to clean, at the end of each day, my hands being reduced to basically a bloody-pulp..... NO Thank You...! But good for you, you are a better man than I...!
My tip- post oil change, i keep the empty box, and make a point of putting top up oil empties in there.....that way i have a simple visual record of how much oil in between oil changes ....in case this ever gets to increase.
The top, what’s the top and bottom? The ‘bottom’ is actually the top and it holds nearly a quart of oil. So, put a small hole there to relieve the vacuum. I guess you’re not familiar how the filter mounts on the engine.
Scott - enjoyed the video. Why not use a drill to punch a couple of holes on top of the filter instead of the hammer and the screwdriver that may damage the filter housing?
Good question Robert. I want the oil to drain away... and when it has I put a piece of tape over the hole so it doesn't leak out. I don't care because I'm going to cut the filter open anyway. A drill would introduce metal fragments that would confuse findings in the paper filter. Not a good idea.
As a 30 A&P/IA/pilot, please use a torque wrench(required per FAR's). 16-18 ft/lbs really isn't that much. Also before taking off the filter wrap a rag around the base of the filter to catch left over oil. And last item don't lay tools in or on the plane. Have a work stand or place on the floor. I've got a collection of tools I've found in planes because people forget them.
I was really waiting to see if you would mention closing the quick drain before refilling. I have missed that at least twice in the past 50 years, once on a Baron and again on a Bonanza.. Seems obvious, but like a gear-up landing, it happens.
If memory serves me right, don’t Tempest filters clearly state on the side NOT to lube the seal as it is now pre-lubed and therefore is supposed to installed dry and torquing is one of the reasons as their 16 ft-lbs is based on a non-lubed filter seal and if you lube the seal and then torque it, you are essentially now overtorquing it and that will result in it being extremely hard to break loose when you go to remove it at next oil change?
Tempest filters do say dry. I haven’t heard anything about what you suggest is the reason behind it. I didn’t install that filter and can’t confirm your theory. But frankly, it doesn’t make sense to me.
Hi Scott! Do you have a link or exact name for the Snap-on tool that fits to the gill door fasteners? Further, I would like to purchase such an oil filter cutter but do not find it. Regards, Andreas
The tool you are looking for is a Dzus Tool, you can get one on Amazon.... or go to Aircraftspruce.com you can get a filter cutter and a Dzus tool there as well.
@@FlyWirescottperdue I worked a Jiffy Lube a couple of times and it helps when doing oil changes. When I do plumbing work I usually don't wear any gloves then unless I am running the threading machine most of the day. It takes using a lot of threading oil and a descent dye and the adjustment on the dye cutting teeth set properly.
I would use an Awl vs a Phillips and you might want to place a rag under the oil filter prior to removal..It will catch that remaining oil in the filter..Might save you from getting oil on your engine.. I'm not near the mechanic you are, just 70 years of experience talking..lol..
Yeah.... An awl, a nail, or something shape. Some Phillips are a lot sharper than others! I wouldn't use a #3, for sure! Damaging the mounting base for the oil filter by hammering with "dull" screwdriver will cost more that the savings on YEARS of oil changes.
There is a high rate of people contracting pancreatic cancer from handling fossil fuel and oil products. Now days you see mechanics wearing those blue rubber gloves for that reason.
I was taught as a kid: You want to stop turning the wrench before it gets easy again. Some of the worst things happen right after you say: "just a little bit more". Watching someone else change the oil is fun. Thanks, Scott.
Scott - I saw a suggestion on ABS about spinning the prop backwards about 30 blades, (10 revolutions on a 3 blade prop) after punching the hole into the oil filter. Your sequence of punching the hole in the oil filter, then open the drain (sure hope you have a quick drain installed) and finally starting the counterclockwise rotation of the three-blade propellor 30 times. You are basically removing the oil from the filter element via the oil pump going in the opposite direction. I suggest putting a shop rag around the bottom of the filter, as there always seems to be a small amount of oil remaining in the filter if you want to finish the job all at once. If you live at the airport, certainly put a hole in the filter, then start draining the sump oil, and let the plane drain overnight is a great way also. Hurrah for the lucky folks whose plane lives right next door. But for the other folks who want to start and finish the job in one sitting, the above technique also works! Some folks are fearful of turning the engine backward and feel it could damage the vacuum (pressure) pump. I have been doing it that way for over 20 years and have not damaged a vacuum (pressure) pump. Thanks for all you do for General Aviation!
When I change my oil, I put 2 holes in the oil filter.. One as close to center as shown in this video, the other as close to the outer ring of the filter.. I don't have the oil mess that he did on this video.. Also, the correct diameter drain hose makes attaching the hose to the oil drain nipple a lot easier. When I safety wire the filter, I like to wrap it halfway around the filter.. And I use a funnel to put the oil in.. Cuts down on the mess of trying to stick the neck of the oil can in to the filler neck. Just a bit different technique.
I suspect you like the Dzus tool because you used a "Snoopy" on the Eagles.
If you are going to do your own oil change it will probably save you at least a $100 dollars. But Scott forgot to mention a couple other items you will need. One is safety wire .032 is the most common and a pair of safety wire pliers.
I guess I forgot to mention it... but I did show it when I was putting the filter on. Sorry.
You have managed to trigger another road story... Lol - unfortunately, the writing of it is turning into a small novella. Suffice it to say I hideously lost an engine in a new car when an oil filter leaked. It was found with a hole in it, and was thought to be defective. The oil company towed the car a million miles and had a brand new short block installed. Bless them! They flew me to Denver to pick up the car, took me to lunch, Queen Nefertiti at 19 years old. Omg - a couple months later the same problem started to happen again. I discovered it by the grace of the 4 Winds - Cause? An engine heater improperly installed, banged on the filter with every bump, wearing a hole in it!
Thanks Scott, really helpful!
Toss-up. This video versus a 17 minute Joe Walsh video on how to properly set-up and tune a Gibson Les Paul guitar. Both are informative and make you think. Plus, is anything really more important than an oil change done correctly and in a timely fashion or a proper guitar set-up for the best results when playing out?
Joe Walsh is pretty stiff competition!
Scott, if more people expended the time and energy you do on the basics we would all benefit and it takes people with experience like you to emphasize things like proper and periodic maintenance lessons to less experienced aviators. In the Air Force we always put a strong emphasis on the basics and I know you had to have safety preached constantly through your UPT days in the Air Force.
It was integrated into everything you do!
Great video ! Thank you.
Thanks Scott, one suggestion would of course be to run the aircraft afterwards to ensure that there are no oil leaks and that clean oil is moved back into the galleries to dilute the oil that always get left behind. Of course doing any job is more fun on a Skywagon ;-)
Graeme- Of course you are right. But it was a rainy day when I filmed this and I was just going to wait until it was clear to do a test run. Skywagon's are much easier to change the oil on!
Great video Scott. I regularly change mine as well and would recommend prior to removing the oil filter you stuff a rag under it. Simple, but it prevents the small amount of oil that drains out of the filter from falling down on your engine components. I would also recommend doing regular oil samples (I use Blackstone Labs) and have them analyzed each oil change. Might be worthwhile to mention to your viewers how to do an engine logbook entry as well. I like your GAMI SPEC engine. :-)
Jim, thanks a bunch! I appreciate it. You might have a good idea for a video... what a good log entry would entail and how to do one as an owner.
@@FlyWirescottperdue would you do video interview for my TH-cam channel
@@thecoolj45221 Sure, send me an email from flywire.online
@@FlyWirescottperdue you still there please respond here fast
The oil may run out faster with a warm engine. Great video as usual!
Just done my first oil change on my new (to me) 1978 A36. I cant get to the top on my filter ( heat exchanger pipes, etc)...certainly cant get a socket/ torque wrench in there. So my other tip, developed today! To make sure i do 1/4 turn on top of the hand tight position.....i draw on the filter ( 2 lines Nd an arrow) vs a datum, so 10+ tiny turns later .....i know i have done the job...and not over done it.
Good tip!
From 20 years on active duty working on 18's & 60's, the last thing I would ever even think of doing is tinkering with another a/c or even auto.... I'm completely DONE getting my hands dirty, getting safety wire stuck through my fingers, spending hours standing on my head, with my legs dangling out of a cockpit, while I change a lateral stick transducer on a pitching & rolling flight deck,
so much grease & oil under my finger tips you have to use JP5 to even attempt to clean, at the end of each day, my hands being reduced to basically a bloody-pulp.....
NO Thank You...!
But good for you, you are a better man than I...!
Thanks for standing in the door! You did your part!
He means F/A-18 and SH-60.
Scott, thanks for a very informative video! What kind of quick drain valve do you have? Thanks!
My tip- post oil change, i keep the empty box, and make a point of putting top up oil empties in there.....that way i have a simple visual record of how much oil in between oil changes ....in case this ever gets to increase.
Good tip
Scott, by any chance, you would know where to buy a replacement for the dollar (sp) panel? It was lost after the last oil change during the annual
Send a message to Kevin OHallarin on Beechtalk.
May I ask why you made a hole in the bottom of the oil filter rather than the top?
The top, what’s the top and bottom? The ‘bottom’ is actually the top and it holds nearly a quart of oil. So, put a small hole there to relieve the vacuum. I guess you’re not familiar how the filter mounts on the engine.
I love your videos, I have been learning a lot about the A36! Hopefully can find someone with one I can teach out of!
Scott - enjoyed the video. Why not use a drill to punch a couple of holes on top of the filter instead of the hammer and the screwdriver that may damage the filter housing?
Good question Robert. I want the oil to drain away... and when it has I put a piece of tape over the hole so it doesn't leak out. I don't care because I'm going to cut the filter open anyway. A drill would introduce metal fragments that would confuse findings in the paper filter. Not a good idea.
As a 30 A&P/IA/pilot, please use a torque wrench(required per FAR's). 16-18 ft/lbs really isn't that much. Also before taking off the filter wrap a rag around the base of the filter to catch left over oil. And last item don't lay tools in or on the plane. Have a work stand or place on the floor. I've got a collection of tools I've found in planes because people forget them.
Thanks Jason, Do it your way. Make your video. Thanks for watching.
I was really waiting to see if you would mention closing the quick drain before refilling. I have missed that at least twice in the past 50 years, once on a Baron and again on a Bonanza.. Seems obvious, but like a gear-up landing, it happens.
I guess its not obvious, but it is a quick lesson;)
If memory serves me right, don’t Tempest filters clearly state on the side NOT to lube the seal as it is now pre-lubed and therefore is supposed to installed dry and torquing is one of the reasons as their 16 ft-lbs is based on a non-lubed filter seal and if you lube the seal and then torque it, you are essentially now overtorquing it and that will result in it being extremely hard to break loose when you go to remove it at next oil change?
Tempest filters do say dry. I haven’t heard anything about what you suggest is the reason behind it. I didn’t install that filter and can’t confirm your theory. But frankly, it doesn’t make sense to me.
What size I/D (Inside Diameter) rubber tubing mates up with the quick drain nipple?
Kent- I suppose it really depends on the quick drain you have installed. It's easy to measure.
is that synthetic oil?
Scott, do you run your engine prior to an oil change. Andrew N4467A
sometimes, not always
Torque spec was given for the oil filter so why didn't you use a torque wrench? Like your filter cutter. That's a dandy. Regards
I guess I'm old school.
Hi Scott! Do you have a link or exact name for the Snap-on tool that fits to the gill door fasteners? Further, I would like to purchase such an oil filter cutter but do not find it. Regards, Andreas
The tool you are looking for is a Dzus Tool, you can get one on Amazon.... or go to Aircraftspruce.com you can get a filter cutter and a Dzus tool there as well.
@@FlyWirescottperdue Again: Thank you a lot for the advice! Enjoying all your videos!
Let’s see a review of your tug. How will it handle a lip at the hangar door?
Sure, I can do that.
Maybe you get yourself some blue or black nitrile gloves for those messy mechanics jobs, especially while dissecting the filter.
Not much of a glove guy. You should do it though.
@@FlyWirescottperdue I worked a Jiffy Lube a couple of times and it helps when doing oil changes. When I do plumbing work I usually don't wear any gloves then unless I am running the threading machine most of the day. It takes using a lot of threading oil and a descent dye and the adjustment on the dye cutting teeth set properly.
I would use an Awl vs a Phillips and you might want to place a rag under the oil filter prior to removal..It will catch that remaining oil in the filter..Might save you from getting oil on your engine.. I'm not near the mechanic you are, just 70 years of experience talking..lol..
Thanks Harley... I usually wait overnight and there really isn't very much residual oil to catch.
Yeah.... An awl, a nail, or something shape. Some Phillips are a lot sharper than others! I wouldn't use a #3, for sure! Damaging the mounting base for the oil filter by hammering with "dull" screwdriver will cost more that the savings on YEARS of oil changes.
You use the "it feels about right" method of torquing, eh? :-)
YEs, I guess I've done enough of them that I've got the feel;)
It's to bad not many take care of there plane like this.. You have to put money in a plane to stay safe..
There is a high rate of people contracting pancreatic cancer from handling fossil fuel and oil products. Now days you see mechanics wearing those blue rubber gloves for that reason.
Back in the day folks would use Avgas as a solvent and even washed their hands in it.