I just wanted to say thank you! I have never soldered before in my life, but I tackled this repair as it looked to be fairly straightforward and FAR LESS EXPENSIVE than the OEM Ford replacement display part (over $200). So, for $9 at Wal-Mart for a very basic soldering pencil iron and some solder...my display is working for the first time in nearly 2 years. My repair was in a 2005 Ford Excursion and the overhead console was slightly different, but the tasks were essentially the same and it all worked out great! Thanks, again.
First the starter upgrades on both my 03 7.3, and 04 6.0, now time for the 6.0 console display. Ripping that sumbitch out right now, some flux and my portasol iron. I'll report back in an hour. Weird all your repairs take that long. I did both starters in under an hour, remove, rebuild, reinstall, hookup batts and test. Here we go again! You da MAN man!
Thanks a million for taking the time to post this video. I run a 2002 F350 and when the display went out in the overhead console I was really bummed. I found your video and was able to fix it. My wife didn't think I could but guess she was wrong (again), the hardest part was taking the console down off of the roof. I was afraid I was going to break it, but your instructions saved the day. Thanks again.
An easy fix is to take normal 1/8 watt wire lead type resistors and just solder them in where the flat surface mount ones are. The surface mount units have good sized solder pads which make switching them out with wire lead types pretty easy. There are two that are in parallel (620 and 680 ohms) that make up a 325 ohm equivalent. They can be replaced by 3 1000 ohm 1/8 watt wire lead units in parallel (333 ohms equivalent) and the display will work fine. Also while in there replacing the large surface mount resistors, go over the back and resolder every through board lead for the connector and the voltage regulator due to them occasionally getting dry joint connection issues.
Thanks for the video!!! Just picked up a new (to me) excursion and this was one of the many things not working properly. Really easy fix and the “lie-o-meter” is now working strong!
Great video. I just took mine down, 2003 Ford Excursion, and everything looks great. Perfect even. I used a pick to see if there were any loose and none were that I can tell. Is there a dedicated fuse to this overhead? I want to check that first before i start digging around in the overhead.
Lol Thanks! I had to let you win at something. I mustn't exude perfection in ALL that I do...people would become suspicious. That being said, even when I'm the worst at something, I'm still the best worst.
I fixed mine. You stated a number of times that you had done this fix to your vehicle 'like a hundred times'. That got me thinking when I had my board out. I decided to check how good all of the resistors where attached to the board. I checked each one and all of them popped off with no effort at all. So I glued them back down and soldered them back on. I think the problem is that the board is located above the headliner which is not insulated. I can't begin to imagine how hot that space above the headliner gets during the summer. Thanks for your post!
I was lazy and just used super glue. If I had to do it again I think I would use silicone instead, and let it set up overnight before soldering. Silicone can withstand extreme heat and adheres amazingly well to absolutely everything. On a side note, if you use silicone 1 (not that crappy silicone 2) and bond two dry surfaces together you can immediately put them underwater and it will set up just as well as if it wasn't underwater. Done it a number of times. Silicone is flat out badass! It has become my go to adhesive on most everything.
Dude.... I'm done! Installed, tested for proper operation, tools put away and clean solder joints! HA! Pretty easy peasy. Now it's better than factory! Well under half hour, with time to spare!
As you probably know there are a ton of videos on this subject. YOURS, however, shows exactly the same overhead console as mine. None of the others do that I have found. So I am guessing you have a LARIAT... Mine is an 02' F250 Super Crew Lariat. I tried to pull mine down and stopped because, as you say in the video, it felt like I was going to break it.. Also, I have owned mine since 05', so 13 years now. About 6 years ago I had to replace my sunglasses door also. All in all, I am extremely happy with my truck. The only (out of normal), replacements has been a very recent fuel pump. Yup, she let me down for the first time ever 2 days ago and came home on a rollback. :( The funny, (odd funny), thing is, the overhead readout died within an hour of the fuel pump dying..... So 2 issues. I am waiting now for the third shoe to drop.
Correct, mine is a 2003 F250 Crew Cab Lariat 4x4. Owned it since '04. By far, the best truck I've ever owned. That sucks about your fuel pump. Mine had been replaced a few months before I bought the truck. I've had similar issues with multiple unrelated failures that hit all at once. Crazy. I've kept a detailed record of everything I've ever replaced on my truck over the 220,000+ miles that I've put on it...I should make a video on it. I hope your third shoe doesn't hit too hard. Oh, and mine has been on a roll back once too so don't feel bad...it happens.
A complete list of repairs and when?mileage they died might make for a great video... I pulled my overhead console and removed the control head and I cannot see anything wrong with it. I even put my GOOD GLASSES ON!! I plugged it back in and all works well, but I did not put the console trim back on yet as I feel it will die again. All my solders look great. If/when it does come out again I will get in there with a magnifying glass. I did find a burn spot on the lens!!
Cool. I'll get to work on that. Sometimes just messing with it gets it to work for a while. If it stops working again, just take a toothpick (or anything non conductive), while the key is on, and press on the solder joints of the resistors...then you'll find your smoking gun. Yeah, mine had the burn spot too. I'd wager they all do. It could be from the manufacturing process.
I've had my truck for 22 years and only had to replace the display once. That foam has to be retaining heat on that board, that maybe part of the issue
I'll just order the part after seeing this. Checks Amazon. Nope gonna fix it. Also am I the only one that caught the Hokay reference to the "end of the world" cartoon? Or maybe some people just say ok like that.
True, but I had to use something. Some boards are completely potted in silicone or epoxy so I figured it'd be worth a shot. It already didn't work so how much more damage could I do...
Be careful if the circuit temperatures are not checked , the circuits could melt down and you are looking at over $200 for replacement. you can have it rebuilt properly with a lifetime warranty for $19.00 on eBay WARHL
Get thru-hole resistors the same resistance of the smd resistors on the board. Bend the legs appropriately, wick your joints, clean with alcohol and use flux. The “620” SMD’s are 62 ohm, 680s are 68 ohms. This fix will last the life of the vehicle.
You should be able to find replacements at Digi-Key.com. I believe the problem is that these resistors are the wrong power rating and they dissipate so much power that the soldered ends get hot enough to melt the solder. This should NEVER happen on a properly designed board. This is a design fault from day 1. Fixing mine for the second time now. I may elevate the resistors above the board to allow cooling all around.
This is a hot climate issue. It is caused by significant heat due to the sun baking the roof and the electronics being housed inside the console with zero vents. It gets hotter and hotter..
@@MrTackleberry79 I disagree. I am in New England and this is not a hot climate issue. The only parts coming off the board are those resistors and their job is to control the current going to the display. In doing so, the voltage drop across the resistors and the resulting current dissipate power. The power rating of these resistors is not adequate such that they overheat and melt the solder. This is a design flaw!
@@seekrepair5887 the reason I bring it up I just bought another F250 from my Niehbor it’s a 2000 4 door 7.3 L lariat with 90,000 he bought it new in 2000 he sold it to me for 10g well guess what doesn’t work in it!! Yep I’ll be fixing the resistors!
Beware of Ebay "fixers". I sent mine to an Ebay merchant who had an ad a mile long telling shoppers they were the best, don't send it to other sites, we guarantee a fix etc etc blah blah. I made a trip to post office and sent it to Fl. A few days later I got a message that a certain component had failed and they couldn't fix it. But they said they would sell me one they had fixed for 6 times my original cost to repair mine. Or I could get a refund minus my original shipping I had paid them and they keep my part, or if I wanted my part back I would have to pay another shipping charge.
If any of you have missing resistors you can purchase here www.automotivecircuitsolutions.com/products/new-replacement-resistors-for-ford-toyota-and-honda-overhead-display-and-clocks?variant=12619204460595
I just wanted to say thank you! I have never soldered before in my life, but I tackled this repair as it looked to be fairly straightforward and FAR LESS EXPENSIVE than the OEM Ford replacement display part (over $200). So, for $9 at Wal-Mart for a very basic soldering pencil iron and some solder...my display is working for the first time in nearly 2 years. My repair was in a 2005 Ford Excursion and the overhead console was slightly different, but the tasks were essentially the same and it all worked out great! Thanks, again.
You're welcome! Congrats on your repair!
First the starter upgrades on both my 03 7.3, and 04 6.0, now time for the 6.0 console display. Ripping that sumbitch out right now, some flux and my portasol iron. I'll report back in an hour.
Weird all your repairs take that long. I did both starters in under an hour, remove, rebuild, reinstall, hookup batts and test.
Here we go again! You da MAN man!
Great video, thanks for sharing, I’ve got my F250 console display back up and running:)!
When you resolder the resistors use leaded solder. Lead free is very prone to cracking
GREAT video!! Amazing how simple this can be if you have steady hands;)
Thanks for this video. I just bought a 2000 F250 and the overhead display is out. After seeing this, it looks like an easy fix.
You're welcome. Glad I could help. Good luck with the repair!
Thanks a million for taking the time to post this video. I run a 2002 F350 and when the display went out in the overhead console I was really bummed. I found your video and was able to fix it. My wife didn't think I could but guess she was wrong (again), the hardest part was taking the console down off of the roof. I was afraid I was going to break it, but your instructions saved the day. Thanks again.
That's great! You're welcome. I'm glad that I could help.
An easy fix is to take normal 1/8 watt wire lead type resistors and just solder them in where the flat surface mount ones are. The surface mount units have good sized solder pads which make switching them out with wire lead types pretty easy.
There are two that are in parallel (620 and 680 ohms) that make up a 325 ohm equivalent. They can be replaced by 3 1000 ohm 1/8 watt wire lead units in parallel (333 ohms equivalent) and the display will work fine.
Also while in there replacing the large surface mount resistors, go over the back and resolder every through board lead for the connector and the voltage regulator due to them occasionally getting dry joint connection issues.
That's how you use them tronics smarts.. nothing ille6g was present here..
Thanks for the video!!! Just picked up a new (to me) excursion and this was one of the many things not working properly. Really easy fix and the “lie-o-meter” is now working strong!
Ha! Sweet. I'm glad it helped.
Thanks for sharing, now I know that the console shouldn't break when I pull it off. Great video, wish I found it a year ago.
You're welcome! I'll fire up the Delorean...
Thanks, this video helped me solder the issues.
Sire, you cracked me up with that accent towards the end! Thank you for saving a ton of pounds(£) for fellow DIYers 👍
Dis is ze eart,(ROUN)...
Haha
Great video. I just took mine down, 2003 Ford Excursion, and everything looks great. Perfect even. I used a pick to see if there were any loose and none were that I can tell. Is there a dedicated fuse to this overhead? I want to check that first before i start digging around in the overhead.
Mine just went out. And I'm gonna try this. Thanks!
You're welcome. Good luck!
Wow. Just wow. I really thought I was the world's worst solderer.
*Congrats, man!*
Lol Thanks! I had to let you win at something. I mustn't exude perfection in ALL that I do...people would become suspicious. That being said, even when I'm the worst at something, I'm still the best worst.
Thank you very much I just followed your video and repaired mine as well!!!
You're welcome! Glad it helped!
I fixed mine. You stated a number of times that you had done this fix to your vehicle 'like a hundred times'. That got me thinking when I had my board out. I decided to check how good all of the resistors where attached to the board. I checked each one and all of them popped off with no effort at all. So I glued them back down and soldered them back on. I think the problem is that the board is located above the headliner which is not insulated. I can't begin to imagine how hot that space above the headliner gets during the summer. Thanks for your post!
You're welcome! That's a good idea to glue them down first...I'll probably give that a shot next time I'm back in there.
I was lazy and just used super glue. If I had to do it again I think I would use silicone instead, and let it set up overnight before soldering. Silicone can withstand extreme heat and adheres amazingly well to absolutely everything. On a side note, if you use silicone 1 (not that crappy silicone 2) and bond two dry surfaces together you can immediately put them underwater and it will set up just as well as if it wasn't underwater. Done it a number of times. Silicone is flat out badass! It has become my go to adhesive on most everything.
Awesome video man
Thanks!
Flux & alcohol need to be used for the solder to properly flow & to clean the board after soldering.
Thanks! Greetings from a german Excursion-Driver... ;-)
Greetings and salutations!
thanks, im going to go try and fix my 2000 f 350
thank you this helped me to fix mine.
You're welcome. Glad it helped!
Well done.
The voices are my favorit!!! Lol
Tank you from Germany
Dude.... I'm done! Installed, tested for proper operation, tools put away and clean solder joints!
HA!
Pretty easy peasy. Now it's better than factory!
Well under half hour, with time to spare!
Right on!👍
With your help, mine is working now! Any idea how to calibrate it? I didn’t have time to check the manual
Another one repaired. Just one 680 resistor on one side. A dabba doya.
The roof radiates so much heat on that board too. Its brutal in the Texas sunshine.
As you probably know there are a ton of videos on this subject. YOURS, however, shows exactly the same overhead console as mine. None of the others do that I have found. So I am guessing you have a LARIAT... Mine is an 02' F250 Super Crew Lariat. I tried to pull mine down and stopped because, as you say in the video, it felt like I was going to break it.. Also, I have owned mine since 05', so 13 years now. About 6 years ago I had to replace my sunglasses door also. All in all, I am extremely happy with my truck. The only (out of normal), replacements has been a very recent fuel pump. Yup, she let me down for the first time ever 2 days ago and came home on a rollback. :( The funny, (odd funny), thing is, the overhead readout died within an hour of the fuel pump dying..... So 2 issues. I am waiting now for the third shoe to drop.
Correct, mine is a 2003 F250 Crew Cab Lariat 4x4. Owned it since '04. By far, the best truck I've ever owned. That sucks about your fuel pump. Mine had been replaced a few months before I bought the truck. I've had similar issues with multiple unrelated failures that hit all at once. Crazy. I've kept a detailed record of everything I've ever replaced on my truck over the 220,000+ miles that I've put on it...I should make a video on it. I hope your third shoe doesn't hit too hard.
Oh, and mine has been on a roll back once too so don't feel bad...it happens.
A complete list of repairs and when?mileage they died might make for a great video... I pulled my overhead console and removed the control head and I cannot see anything wrong with it. I even put my GOOD GLASSES ON!! I plugged it back in and all works well, but I did not put the console trim back on yet as I feel it will die again. All my solders look great. If/when it does come out again I will get in there with a magnifying glass. I did find a burn spot on the lens!!
Cool. I'll get to work on that. Sometimes just messing with it gets it to work for a while. If it stops working again, just take a toothpick (or anything non conductive), while the key is on, and press on the solder joints of the resistors...then you'll find your smoking gun. Yeah, mine had the burn spot too. I'd wager they all do. It could be from the manufacturing process.
Same here: I’m working on a 2003 F-250 Lariat Crew Cab and this is the only video that showed my overheard console setup. Very helpful!
Thanks man
You're welcome
I've had my truck for 22 years and only had to replace the display once. That foam has to be retaining heat on that board, that maybe part of the issue
Could be...although I'd wager that it's my kindergarten level soldering ability that is the main issue.
Good video: unfortunately when I opened up my display, one of the resistors must have gotten so hot it melted itself loose, because it was missing.
Thanks that’s a lot better than 250.00 for a new one .
I see a spring hook tool. I restrung many a copier corona wires using one of them. :)
A handy little tool indeed...many uses. Thanks for stopping by!
I'll just order the part after seeing this. Checks Amazon. Nope gonna fix it.
Also am I the only one that caught the Hokay reference to the "end of the world" cartoon? Or maybe some people just say ok like that.
Hahaha....Finally!!! So far, you're the only one that has caught that reference.
FIRE ZE MISSILES!!! Lol
Foam is an insulator that will cause the resistors and other components to get a lot hotter. Doesn't seem like a good idea.
True, but I had to use something. Some boards are completely potted in silicone or epoxy so I figured it'd be worth a shot. It already didn't work so how much more damage could I do...
Don't use foam. Glue a small heat sink to each the resistors.
Very good video.One resister is completely off. How do I buy a new circuit board?
Thanks! I'd try a salvage yard or ebay. OEM from Ford would likely be expensive.
Be careful if the circuit temperatures are not checked , the circuits could melt down and you are looking at over $200 for replacement. you can have it rebuilt properly with a lifetime warranty for $19.00 on eBay WARHL
Blimey! ... thank you for the excellent teaching video ... and even more for the entertaining ridiculous British accent ;-)))
Lol! Thanks! It's nice to be appreciated. :-) Clever name btw...
@@seekrepair5887 Why thank you sir! ... keep up the excellent entertaining work! ;-)
Get thru-hole resistors the same resistance of the smd resistors on the board. Bend the legs appropriately, wick your joints, clean with alcohol and use flux. The “620” SMD’s are 62 ohm, 680s are 68 ohms. This fix will last the life of the vehicle.
Thanks for the tip! I'll try this soon as the display is dead yet again.
My basic model 04 Excursion had no display at all. Can I add one from a more fancy model? Would it be as simple as it seems? Thanks for the video.
That is a good question. I guess it depends on if the wiring harness is present as well as the sensors. Let us know if you figure it out.
I have the same thing....did you do this and did it work ?
What type of soldering iron are you using? I have never seen one quite like it.
It's a small, butane powered, "pen torch". It may have come from Radio Shack back in the day...though I can't be sure.
You should be able to find replacements at Digi-Key.com. I believe the problem is that these resistors are the wrong power rating and they dissipate so much power that the soldered ends get hot enough to melt the solder. This should NEVER happen on a properly designed board. This is a design fault from day 1. Fixing mine for the second time now. I may elevate the resistors above the board to allow cooling all around.
This is a hot climate issue. It is caused by significant heat due to the sun baking the roof and the electronics being housed inside the console with zero vents. It gets hotter and hotter..
@@MrTackleberry79 I disagree. I am in New England and this is not a hot climate issue. The only parts coming off the board are those resistors and their job is to control the current going to the display. In doing so, the voltage drop across the resistors and the resulting current dissipate power. The power rating of these resistors is not adequate such that they overheat and melt the solder. This is a design flaw!
I did a crappy video on this years ago. I wonder if we were to use through hole resisters and drill a hole and clinch them so they don’t come loose???
Ah...A fellow crappy vidoegrapher! haha. Yes, I think that would work. I've seen it mentioned in another comment or two.
@@seekrepair5887 the reason I bring it up I just bought another F250 from my Niehbor it’s a 2000 4 door 7.3 L lariat with 90,000 he bought it new in 2000 he sold it to me for 10g well guess what doesn’t work in it!! Yep I’ll be fixing the resistors!
@@trialnterror Very nice!
Liking in advance. 👍🏽
Where can I buy new resistors? I have one completely missing .
Great question! I have no idea...maybe try googling the numbers off of one of them?
Any luck on finding the resistors?
Beware of Ebay "fixers". I sent mine to an Ebay merchant who had an ad a mile long telling shoppers they were the best, don't send it to other sites, we guarantee a fix etc etc blah blah. I made a trip to post office and sent it to Fl. A few days later I got a message that a certain component had failed and they couldn't fix it. But they said they would sell me one they had fixed for 6 times my original cost to repair mine. Or I could get a refund minus my original shipping I had paid them and they keep my part, or if I wanted my part back I would have to pay another shipping charge.
If any of you have missing resistors you can purchase here www.automotivecircuitsolutions.com/products/new-replacement-resistors-for-ford-toyota-and-honda-overhead-display-and-clocks?variant=12619204460595
Built ford tough.
Check out how I repaired one here th-cam.com/video/i4XiculdvmQ/w-d-xo.html
Great stuff except for Brit alter ego bit.
Lol. Thanks!