Easy A/C Clutch Coil Test A/C Clutch Not Engaging
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ต.ค. 2017
- ac clutch not engaging? ac compressor not engaging?
How to test your A/C clutch and coil using only a paper clip or piece of wire. usually i use a power probe but this is for the average do it your selfer so i used the wire method. very easy to do and works on most vehicle. this process works for testing most anything that runs off a relay like fuel pump and starter. i will be making more videos of testing components this way in the near future.
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That's the easiest access A/C compressor I've seen so far. Moment of silence for us front-wheel drive motor owners.
😂😂😂😂
Gotta love Jeeps
I'm working on a Chevy Silverado 2500 diesel. Looks exactly like this. Beautiful
Clear, simple and no bs. Excellent video! The a/c in my chevy Duramax appeared dead. Jumpered the relay as you directed and found life in the clutch. Added R-134a to the system and got cold air again! Apparently the a/c system is disabled when the refrigerant charge is low. Your video saved me time and money. Thanks!
Great video. Most videos show you how it could go bad and what else to check but nobody was showing how simple it is to check if the ac compressor clutch is engaging.
Hey man thanks for posting this. 2014 Tacoma. AC light on, no clutch engagement. Removed relay, jumped the wires, clutch clicked. Went to Autozone, bought a can of stuff, jumped the wires with full fan and max ac, read 0 psi on the low side. Added enough R134 to get to about 40psi. Reinstalled relay, no engagement. Bought a new relay for $15 and whammo, everything working now. Was quoted $900 to replace my compressor after my "friend" listened to me talk about it and responded in like 2 seconds. Smh. $45 for the can o' stuff. I probably have a leak somewhere.
Thanks again!
For those who don't have the standard pin labels (30, 87...) and instead have (1,2,3,5), you want to place the wire in pins 3 and 5
Hell yes! Thanks man!! was looking everywhere for this comparison
I wired pins 1 and 5 and it worked
Hell yea bro this worked for me. Thanks! I bought a truck that was sitting for 5 years and wasn't sure if the compressor was bad or just needed recharged since the compressor wouldn't kick on while ac was turned on. Jumped the two leads and the clutch engaged
@@littledave232323 why 1 & 5?
Seems like every other video out there is all "replace the compressor", and mine ended up being a ground problem, saved a bunch of money , thanks
Mike White hi. What problems were you facing ??
how did you fix it what did you change/fix?
I think I may have the same problem, where was your ground problem?
What is the ground?
What is the ground?
Thanks for this!!! Gone without a/c for a year in our 2011 Ford fusion and a shop wanted $1,800 to “revamp” the entire HVAC system because it would be “easier” to do. Thought my compressor went bad but using your testing method I found that mine is actually still engages. So which leads me to believe my Evap sensor has gone bad. So thank you! You’ve potentially saved me a lot of time and some money.
This is what I was looking for - explained everything! LR Discovery 2 with original factory air - blowing warm air now after 16 years - was hoping it was just the ac compressor clutch/solenoid (it recently stopped engaging). It's a Denso compressor; will do your check as described here and hopefully it is the clutch/solenoid at fault and I can replace myself without having to have the system degassed and spend bug $$$ on a new compressor! The system is fully charged with R134A gas now. Probably also worth replacing the receiver/drier, but I guess that would mean degassing the system as well.
Thank you!
Thank You this was the exact video I was looking for.
Thanks for the tips, very helpful places to start looking. Btw if ur amp power cable is still loose like that, you’ve gotta loom and secure it around the main engine area, ideally similar to OEM wiring paths, and grommet thru the firewall if u can’t find a punch out. Same goes for all cabling. Clean secure adequately sized grounds to chassis/frame are key! Extra bonus points for extra clean wiring cuz u know it’s solid and very easy to work on if needed later. And u certainly should do a big 3 / 4 upgrade or at least the battery ground wire for best results regardless of draw cuz oem wires are cheap and puny.
Thanks for the tutorial!! In my case, after doing all this I found the large connector behind the clutch to be a bad contact...Check your connections too folks!
Yes very easy to forget about connectors
Thanks I will be investigating the wiring to compressor more closely.
i know im asking randomly but does someone know of a trick to log back into an instagram account?
I was dumb forgot my login password. I would love any tricks you can give me
@Cairo Gus instablaster =)
@Case Leonard thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site on google and im trying it out now.
Seems to take quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
Thank you for posting this video. I was able to get the compressor clutch to engage and charged my AC using your instructions on my Cadillac escalade. Now i have to figure out the right PSI for my system.
That was a great video! I applied this to my 04 Impala LS and the clutch did pull in. I also additionally disconnected the coolant Temp Sensor and started the car to make sure my AC Rad FANS were in working order as the AC fan was not working with the clutch not pulling in. Knowing that the relays and fans were good I went ahead and refilled the refrigerant and BLAMO! Everything is working great! Thanks man! Video helped alot!
Short sweet and to the point whithout bs,, thanks
Very good explanation on how this works, thanks!
Thank you for the tips. Allowed me to successfully correct the hot air blowing from my AC. Apparently my compressor didnt have enough refrigerant to kick in - this bypass allowed it to filled. thanks again
Chris Cotten Yeah I was gonna ask the same thing before finishing the video! How do you fill your ac if the clutch won’t engage???
Derrick Smiley No as soon as I put the ac refill can on the low side and pulled the trigger ( while the car was running) it automatically turned on both ac fans! There’s a leak in my ac system so when it’s low it shuts down the ac compressor! Just have to get a black light to find the dye!
this is whats wrong with mine, blows hot air and clutch does not engage it has gas in so that was not low unless it is in the compressror
@@youtubebitchcenter1463 so if my clutch engages just like shown in video what is the problem
Thank you! I have seen other videos with this info. Yours is the best!!☺☺👍👍
Thanks for the video. It worked perfectly on my 98' GMC truck. Was able to engage the clutch so I could recharge a completely empty system.
Yes pretty common and sometimes cheaply fixed
@@m0bilemechanix same with mine. Not enough R-134A to allow the clutch to engage. Worked awesome, and now my wife has a cool car, at least long enough to get to a garage to have the system looked at.
Why is this such a catch 22? Clutch wont engage with low refrigerant yet cant fill refrigerant unless clutch engages... is this how professional mechanics bypass this catch 22?
So what if this method does not work?
Great Info - thanks for taking the time to pass this info on....I appreciate it
Great video man, I appreciate you taking the time to get this info out there
Just what I needed to lock up my AC clutch- thanks!
Thanks, sir! that is an excellent video!
Well Eric you've done it again saved the day! Improvised tools beating the counter at the parts store once again! If you ever feel like letting me know how to go about replacing the wire that goes to the pressure switch please let me know as it has been discontinued. Thanks your pal Mopar Mike. Since they now own my behind. Lol
Should be able to just splice one in
@@m0bilemechanix you could recommend a place to buy the plug?
@@exiledintheus7251 might not be able to get one but I usually start with AutoZone and then I call the dealership. Tell them you need the pigtail for the pressure switch (witch ever you need high or low) of all else fails some salvage yards will let you cut one off a vehicle
@@m0bilemechanix I know this is old, but I replaced my high pressure switch on my 2007 Saturn Vue thinking it was the reason my AC went out. Before I put the new switch in, I could still hear the compressor turn on but after I replaced the switch the compressor wasn’t making anymore noise. I made sure I had enough refrigerant in the system and no leaks. I’m gonna give this a try later tonight when it “cools down” as it’s already in the triple digits here and I’m dying with no AC. Thanks to TH-cam videos, I never knew a girl like me would be able to learn/do so much work on my own car!
Thanks man! I was able to confirm my clutch and compressor worked using your method.
Nice!
Very helpful video. Straight to the point and informative. Thank you.
Worked for 97 Silverado. It was the 85 and 30 (still diagonal). Thanks.
Nice video on the testing.You can get a compressor for 150.00.
Very Useful Video....thank you for taking the time to make it and explain it well..
I was thinking of a way like that but didn't know exactly how. Will try this on my truck and hope my ac compressor is still good
I tried your method and my AC compressor was good, I recharged the system with UV die to find out if it has a leak. The AC blows cold now and I can't see any leaks yet.
@@jdenha7078 so you just had low Freon probably the low pressure switch kept the Ac from running. I’m having the same issue I checked relay even swapped relays around and still nothing fuse not blown and AC diode checked good. The AC button lights up so I’m sure that’s working but the relays not be commanded on so no powers hitting the Ac clutch. Maybe I’m low on Freon
@@ryans413 I actually found the leak using the UV dye. It was coming from the o rings. So now I am out of AC again I guess it's time to change the O-rings and then recharge the system.
Our van, the cluch engagesn and immediately disengages. I'm guessing the relay is bad or the low pressure is just enough to get it to engage then disengage. Hopefully the compressor is still good :)
@@auggiebendoggy try removing 1 of the shims its likely the "gap" is too large
Good vid man. Thanks for taking the time to do it.
thanks for watching and commenting
@@m0bilemechanix My car i20 engine is running very quiet as usual. However, as soon as AC clutch is engaged, I hear a squeak sounds and not metallic sounds or alike. The squeezing like sounds go away immediately as AC is off. Even with engine revs, same sounds. And with AC off, as I revs the engine, still the engine is quiet. How to find that squeaky like sounds and fix it?
The AC is blowing cold. It seems the AC compressor is ok.
Thanks for making this video very HELPFUL 👍🏼👍🏼
Thank you so much for the video, I now don't need a new compressor!
You definitely got me on the right track on troubleshooting this on my super duty! Thanks Bro!
Master thank you very much and greetings from Algeria
Thank you for the video , that's what I needed to see. Thanks again
Thank you for the kind comment
@@m0bilemechanix ¹
Thanks for saving me money found a broken ground wire on my kw t680
Awesome! Thanks for the info 👍
Great video and an awesome explanation!
Excellent service and it was great appreciate it good job
Very good vidéo, well explained. It worked perfect for me, just cut myself a bit of wire and tried it. Didn't clic that loud for me, but with a video I could see it engaged well. Replaced the relay and solved! Thanks!
Great video. Just tested my compressor on my 06 Silverado and it works. Thanks for the info. Now time to find which sensor/switch is bad. Used my horn relay to test the a/c relay before and nothing happened. So I believe I do have a safety switch gone bad and possibly a leak in the system.
Straight and to the point. Lots of hair on the knuckles; good sign of a seasoned mechanic.
Bloody legend... cheers mate from Oz. 👍👍👍
This video was helpful. Thank you.
Thanks again for the informative video. So I put the ignition key to on and used the jumper wire from pins 87 and 30 and the clutch clicked and I could see the clutch move in or out when using the jumper wire. Also the clutch couldn't be turned when it clicked or was engaged by use of the jumper. Doing this that way the ac clutch mini fuse didn't blow. The outcome to me suggests the possibility that the clutch wiring is ok or operating/ sending power to the clutch when the jumper is used. So I am going to replace the relay in hopes a relay fault is contributing to the 10 amp mini fuse blowing. I know the relay was quite warm when I first removed it.
Seems unlikely. I would suspect an intermittent short in the wiring to the compressor clutch or a bad coil due to high resistance/intermittent short.
@@m0bilemechanix After the old coil was removed and tested further it proved out that here was a short in the coil. When the new clutch assembly including the coil was replaced the clutch operated is it should and no more blown fuses! As well neither the relay nor the clutch diode were bad.
Awesome information thanks man. Looks like all I need is a new fuse after doing your test. 👍👍
So, if it click what you do?
I just replace compressor but still clutch doesn't engage. Doing this wil determine what?
This actually turned out helpful. Having a problem with my ac that keeps burning out the compressor fuse and i'm trying to figure out whether it's the clutch, wires or the relay.
Likely shorted wires or shorted coil
@@m0bilemechanix You helped me A TON. Greatly appreciate it
@@m0bilemechanix do I'm trying to figure out what I need to do..I'm no mechanic but I did exactly what you did in the video and my ac clutch did the same thing yours did it click on!!? So what do I need to do to fix it
very good thank you
That's an awesome engine bay design .. seems like the alternator is also on top. No need to get under the car or remove the tire. My quest sucks with space. Lol
Great video..to the point. Thanks
thank you
Thanks bud! I did this on my Grand Prix like 5 years ago so I forgot how to do it. My brother in law has a Lincoln which he filled with Free-on but the clutch did not engage so I wanted to test it this way to see if that works at all.
Best video made by a werewolf
Now that's funny!
Lol I didn't get it until I saw that arm. 😂
I’m glad somebody said it LOL LOL LOL I was waiting for claws
Thank you for the very nice video. Can you please explain if the clutch doesn't engage and you have no voltage there; what is the next step?
Did you find the answer to this
Great video thanks
There is also a 10 amp mini fuse behind the relay. That was blown in mine. 02 Sierra.
Thanks. I just got a quote for $2500 to replace my a/c so i wanna go through and see if i can fix it on my own and this video is a great place to start
Did you find the problem
God I hope he didn't pay $2,500 to have his ac fixed. Thats highway robbery.
Holy shit my guy
Are you doing this with the ignition key turn to accessory? In other words to run this test!
Yes the relay gets its power from the ignition and is commanded on by the PCM
No the key can be out of the ignition for this specific test. The coil has a constant ground and when you jump 87 and 30 it takes power from the AC clutch fuse and applies it to the other side of the coil. The fuse has power at all times.
Nice video, thanks. I did this test this morning and my clutch and AC works fine. The relay is not faulty, there is no 12 volt to power it, I checked the 2 AC fuses, from there I don't know what to do, can it be the thermostat or software issues ? I have a Civic 2016. Thanks.
Question if I connected a jumper wire to the 87 and to the 30 but the compressor did not make any clicking noise is it a bad connection or a bad clutch or a bad compressor?
08 impala has a clutch always engaged. Even when the power plug is disconnected.
Only blows warm air. checked and reinstalled all the fuses and checked the relays with a 12volt source. Has a 3 prong high pressure switch / transducer tested open. I unplugged it for a minute and the condenser fan reved up to high speed which it was not doing at all with it plugged in. Any ideas? thanks for the good info. I know I have to get the clutch checked out. But could there be an over pressure situation from it being engaged all the time?
I am replacing my clutch but the aftermarket clutch uses a different connector so I need to splice the wires. How do I know what wire is positive or negative? (or does it not make a difference) They are both black wires on the coil. I know the positive and negative on the engine harness though. Thanks for the great video on testing it!
It doesn’t matter
I have this situation in a GM Opel 1.6 XE 2004 manual airconditioning in which there is almost no voltage (2 volts) going to the AC compressor when the AC is turned on. I swapped the compressor relay with the horn relay (both relays are OK), replaced the little fuse 7.5 Amp inside the cabin (both fuses old and new are OK). When I turn on the AC, the radiator fan switches into 2 gear, nearly draining the battery to 12.2 volts. I checked the compressor coil resitance its 5kOhms which should be withing normal limits. The pressure equalized in the system is 8 bars, but the compressor is not engaging. When I disconnect the pressure switch the fans do not engage, I was wondering could there be an obstruction in the refrigerant lines or dryer causing such symptoms, so that the ECU is not allowing the compressor to be turned on?
I USED YOUR TIP TO PUT A BRIDGE BETWEEN 87 AND 30 TO KEEP THE COMPRESSOR ON WHILE I CHARGED THE AC SYSTEM WITH REFRIGERANT 134A,BECAUSE THE COMPRESSOR MUST BE ON TO FULLY CHARGE THE SYSTEM, THANKS FOR YOU TIP
Did it work and engage after that I think mines low too cause the clutch won’t engage at all
Hi Sir. I have a Kia Sportage 2005. Whenever I turn on my AC within 3-4 mins of running I’ll have a blinking drive light. Any idea what problem I might be facing
Video is good to go. Thank you for posting.
Thanks for making the video
Very clear and concise video. Thank you.
Thanks so much Brother!
Thanks for the tutorial, If only things where that simple, Try'ed this no click, And as summer's fast approaching it's off to a specialist, And burn my holiday fund!!?
.2000 Jeep Cherokee... i tried that relay bridge deal and the wire got hot and blew the big 20 amp ac fuse. does same thing when i try to bridge it over from the high side switch. . Compressor worked great in the other jeep. I start the car turn on A/C controls, Hi/max, When I unplug the ac compressor i still have power on the compressor end/plug but no power on the plug wire coming from the wiring harness. Only time that wire has power is when the ac is plugged in. Is that right?? My low pressure switch 4 ports has power on 3 out of 4 ports/slots. My high pressure switch 2 ports has power on both ports . it wont take freon.. ..{update } car running ac controls on, if i unplug my low side sensor i then have a hot and ground on the high side switch instead of 2 hots but still wont cycle the clutch but low side switch has 3 hot 1 neg. unplugged... i did test the wire thats going into that port and it has power going in the switch but no power in the port of the switch. If i hook the low side back up, again i got 2 hot ports on the high pressure switch. Even when i have 1 hot side other neg or no power on it. it still wont bridge over the clutch and when i got both sides hot and try bridge it it then will blow the big 20 amp fuse. So could my low pressure switch/connector be bad if so will that keep it from accepting freon.
Thank you so much you were more helpful than most of these damn videos on TH-cam
I have a short in the coil
i have a directly related question. My AC fuse, relay and AC clutch are all good thanks to your video. But the AC high side pipe is not hot at all not even warm. But then I touched the high side pipe directly at the compressor output after a few seconds of running the AC and it was burning hot, could not keep my finger on it. Then i checked the high side coming out of the condenser and it was completely cold, not even warm. Does this mean there is a problem with the condenser ?
Other things i checked : the fans are spinning. The low side pipe is just a little bit cool but barely at all, it's almost ambient temperature. Does the compressor output pipe being burning hot means the compressor is good ? Any other test i can do ?
Thank you!
Thanks for good info.👍
Very nice rugged hands and forearms!
Not sure about this one but I'll take it! Thanks lol.
Jeez, I wish my alternator and compressor were easily accessible like that. I have an 03 Expedition and every thing is buried. I think my compressor coil is shorting out, keeps blowing the AC fuse when I turn it on and I'm dreading the replacement procedure. Ruled out the pressure switches, relay and diode. With the engine off, I removed the relay and jumped it and sure enough I was able to get the clutch to engage twice and then the fuse popped again. Next thing is to try again with the compressor electrical connector unplugged just to be sure. Its just a pain ind the ass to find the connector.
Yea man all cars are pain in the asses lol
Great video, thanks
Thank you!
Nice. This helps
Thanks man great help
Thanks bud you just got my cold air going again
Glad it helped!
if not already discussed, most if not all vehicles have an ac limit switch which will kill the power to the clutch and not allow it to engage and turn the pump. Your clutch and pump could be totally fine so its important that you absolutely check this switch first , because if the refrigerant is low in the system, this switch will kill the power to the clutch as a safety measure to prevent damage to the rotating parts in the pump..
so you're saying even if the hotwire of 87/30 doesn't engage the clutch then it could just be the limit switch due to low refrigerant? When I put a screwdriver to the accumulator schrader valve I got pressure blowing out. So I think the pressure should be good enough.... is that not good enough sign?
That's correct the limit switch is triggered when the refrigerant level is low in the system because the refrigerant contains oil which lubricates the pump
Put 12 volts to your AC pump and see if the clutch engages
@@jsugar72 by "AC Pump" you mean the other circuit in that same relay? You're saying that the AC Pump will engage the clutch even if the 87/30 circuit did not engage it? I hotwired 87/30 and nothing. So you're saying the AC Pump circuit will over ride the "limit switch" ? thanks
When you say 8730 I'm assuming you're talking about the AC relay. you can test your clutch to see if its operational without putting a pin or shorting the relay socket. unplug the power cord to your AC pump then get test leads and put 12 volt to the pins you pulled the power cord from and see if the clutch engages if it does your clutch is good. To test a relay I just pull the AC relay out and put another relay in from the distribution box there should be another 8730 in there or one similar
QUESTION? My ac does not work on the 98 Corolla i purchased. I’ve lived up north most my life and have never used the ac on any of my vehicles over the years. So i checked, and there was no refrigerant in the system. I removed the aluminum ac lines, the dryer, the condenser coil so far. If i remove the compressor clutch relay that you examined in your video, will this deaden the ac electrical lines, for me to remove them, and can i leave the relay out?
Thanks for your informative video.
it would yes however the compressor shouldnt run anyways even if you turn it on because the low pressure switch would lock the system out due to not having any pressure.
m0bilemechanix Thanks
You should make a video with the power probe, i just bought myself one. My AC was working great but disengaged as i was setting in my car at work. Im hoping its only my high pressure switch or something in the line that caused the compressor to cut off all of a sudden. Thanks though.
This video helped so much thanks man
This worked for me for checking on my TBSS.
Helped me a lot
Hell yeh, man.
I very much appreciate you.
SE Tx
How do you know where to put the wire, when you use it?
Great video! When I bypass with paper clip clutch gets engage, does it mean I have a problem in my fusebox? the solution is to replace the fusebox also harnesses or just the fuse box?Thanks
if you do it with a paper clip and it works then it shouldn’t be anything with your fuse box, ohm out the relay itself and if you get continuity then fuck idk what to tell ya but if you don’t it’s most likely your relay that’s bad
if you jump the relay, you're taking the low pressure switch out of the equation, so you have a bad low pressure switch, faulty wiring, or a low charge
W kind of wire you used for test the compressor?. I can use any kind?. Thank you.
an Iridium one
@@lifepresent3183 any wire is ok
liquid mercury wire
I used a paper clip lol anything metal that can pass electricity
Great video. I am curious, if you were to jump the wrong connections on that relay, would this potentially damage anything?
You could yes. You could blow a fuse or possibly even ruin the computer.
Some cars can leave off. It a bypass from the battery
Thanks for the responses. However, as it turns out, my problem was a leak in the high pressure A/C hose.
got a 2001 GMC Sierra 1500.....my clutch is not engaging at all....got no power with voltage tester to any pressure switches or recirc switch. So I jumped it with the wire and the clutch does NOT engage. So should I leave the jumper wire in there and disconnect the connector to the compressor and see if the connector has power to it? If it does then it is likely the clutch? (the clutch turns freely by hand now). Thanks for the vid. Very informative! But still confused! FOLLOWING UP HERE: I just put a jumper wire on and I have power in the connector to the compressor. Does that mean my clutch is shot? How do I know that the whole compressor hasn't failed and not just the clutch? I just put a brand new AC Delco unit on a little over 2 years ago from Rockauto and now it's out of warranty! :(
Your a GOAT for this
97 Dodge Ram 1500 5.9L. Based on your statement below, I have a short in my wiring. I unplugged the power wire, engaged the AC, and it immediately popped the 20 amp fuse to the AC relay (which is also the horn's fuse). The problem now is that there is no apparent area of wear on either the two power wires or the two ground wires. By two ground wires, I mean the two wires are together but insulated from each other like the power cord on a kitchen toaster. They connect on the compressor case at the same location. So, any thoughts on finding a bad place in the AC wiring that shows no apparent sign of wear? Also, am I correct in assuming that a faulty ground wire will pop a fuse just like a faulty power wire? Thanks!
Go to a bigger fuse.. tracking wires are no fun.. curious if electrical in the compressor can cause this?
Not sure I'm comfortable going to a bigger fuse, but I can see where doing so would be tempting. In my case I can't readily see where the compressor could be a problem since I still pop a fuse when the wire is disconnected from the clutch. The ground wire is indeed attached to the compressor, but I assume that's just for convince sake. That may be a false assumption. You are right about chasing shorts in the wiring. I wonder if my time would be better spent just rewiring and bypass the whole thing and use a on/off toggle switch mounted somewhere on the dash. I'll need to learn how to incorporate the toggle switch that is in the same fusebox as the AC/horn fuse.
So my AC works fine, there is just no power to pins 85 and 86 regardless of what I do with the blend a/c control selector. The vehicle only has 30K miles on it so I highly doubt the panel control switch is bad. The wires come out of the harness on back of the rotary switch, but after about 6" they dive deep into huge multi bundled cables :( Every fuse in the thing checks OK. (It's a motorhome with the chassis built by one company and the rest of the electrics highly modified by the final assembler. Just how bad of an idea would it be to wire a simple STSP toggle switch at the panel to jumper 30 to 87 and turn it on when I want the compressor to run and off when I don't?
if you arent getting power and ground on 85 and 86 your high or low pressure switch might be preventing ac function do to either low system pressure or a bad switch. first thing you need to do is make sure the system has the correct amount of refrigerant in it.
i just saw the last part of your question. please dont attempt to use a switch most likely its not coming on because of a switch or something and when you use your ac there are a few things that need to happen when the compressor is running like fans need to be on high speed and there needs to be adequet refridgerant etc to keep from ruining the compressor.
Wow, thanks for the quick replies. ALL 3 have been done. 1) low pressure switch validated. 2) overpressure switch validated. 3) Freon level checks OK. Jumpering switches at the connectors still doesn''t allow the clutch to engage :( jumpering at the relay does, then the system functions perfectly. I'm thinking it has to be a shorted control wire somewhere between the control selector and the relay, there may be a computer or circuit board involved but the schematics (that I have access to) are minimal
happened to be at the computer when your question popped up lol. yes it sounds like a control issue or possibly you have an evaporator temp sensor that went bad if equipped.
m0bilemechanix So thanks to you, I just found the problem! an unpluged wire @ the evaporator temperature sensing circuitry. it now works like it should. I have a video about Ford F-250s and their problem with pneumatic control of the blend doors. it has been viewed almost 1/4 million times. people often offer to buy me something. I always tell them just pay it forward... maybe this is my pay forward. Thank you sir! I never knew that third switch exsisted. wanna help me get the remote mirrors working 🤣
Good bro
Thanks for the video best one yet,thanks
I found a bad contact in the wire exiting the compressor by moving the connector with my hand. Not sure where in the 2 ft of wire the break is, how should I go about it?
👍good information. Thanks