Troy, a key part of the reconstruction is the separating of broken pieces from good pieces at the glue joint. How do you achieve this without damaging the good bit, in particular the 'female' side of the joint. I know you show dealing with the nose part, but you want a bit fast over the important bit.
When I was building RC models, my instructor kept saying that the engine and chassis mounting were the two most important places. They are to be made of solid wood. And not pine, but beech, for example. Plastic, unfortunately, is not good. And you already know it yourself. But I also have a question - how does the manufacturer of the plane's plans view it? Because if this was designed in the plans, it is clearly a constructor's error.
I have recently downloaded the Cub from 3D Labprint and I see they've revised the nose quite a lot. Now there's a lot more cooling because the nose is open behind the prop and the motor is held in a sleeve that they tell you must be printed in PET for better heat resistance.
Great rebuild, and I think the balsa wood was a great idea to create a heat break. I hope it works for longer flights. I am a bit concerned about it though as the previous plane seemed to melt below the motor as well, not necessarily all right where the fasteners are located. I was thinking maybe it would be helpful to cut some kind of breathable hole or grill just below the prop and somehow duct the air coming in through that grill up directly to the connection between the motor and the balsa wood. You could even 3D print a perfect little duct with the right bend in it. The amount of air coming in through this duct would be plenty enough to divert the heat from the connection point. Or you could even duct the one or both of the existing vent holes to the electric motor? This might not be necessary as your heat break seemed to work, just a thought to protect on longer flights in hotter conditions. Awesome video!
Thank you for the comment. I built a 3d printed part like you suggest check out my next video on my channel to see the build process of it. It works very well now and I have taken the plane out multiple times after to fly it and it has been flying great.
How about gluing PLA with methilene chloride? Technically it dissolves plastic making strong bond. Also you can make a “slurry” like acetone+abs for filling holes or breaks. I tried in other prints with good results but never printed a plane. Hope to make one like yours in a couple weeks.
Hi there! I really like your videos and your work! Maybe you can purchase a 3d pen to easier repair your 3D printed planes. So you can add some extra layer of PLA to the broken parts or on the glued broke lines.
i guess Im asking the wrong place but does anyone know of a tool to get back into an instagram account? I somehow forgot my password. I would love any assistance you can give me.
@Lyle Israel thanks for your reply. I found the site thru google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff now. Seems to take a while so I will reply here later with my results.
The definition of an engine is the combination of two or more simple machines working in combination to perform an action. An electric motor is very much an engine. Most engines are not motors, most motors are engines.
Commenting on an old video but wouldn't it be possible to print just the section that acts as a motor mount (in this case the nose of the plane) in a more heat resistant filament like abs?
The Part, I´ve seen in Video at Frame time 0:56 min., looks not so fine printed. There are mistakes in Filament flow at some Layers. These will collaps at flight. Your Filament comes not continously out of the nozzle. Please check if, there is an extrude-problem. Perhaps the bowden or sometimes blocked Filament or the Stepper slips through (maybe to fast or too cold).
Nice! I plan on getting a 3D printer around Christmas time... I have been flying for a long time and have done my own designs with foam and look forward to the challenges of the 3D printer. Since I work with AutoCAD on a daily basis I am looking forward also to designing my own models. Thanks for the Video I will check our more..
Thank you for the comment. I enjoy working with 3d printed airplanes. Setting up the printer for thin wall can be a bit challenging. It is nice to be able to work in cad and design any small part needed or build new planes. The ability to design and make any custom part is amazing. Have fun with it. Let me know if you need any help with settings.
Hey Troy, really enjoy your build videos. Just in the process of building my Eclipson EBW. Can I ask what paint you use to spray your models ? Is in an acrylic ? Cheers and keep up the great work!
Hi Fraser thank you for the comment. I use (KRYLON COLORMAXX) paint + primer. It works great for 3d printed parts. The main thing to be cautious with is the tap to use for clean lines without bleeding. I have tested a lot of different tapes. The best one is (FROGTAPE). Have fun with your EBW. I just built the new model A it flies really good and I used LW-PLA. Eclipson is working on a new model right now. I will be building it soon. Keep a look out for it. Cheers
@@TroyMcMillan Thanks for the tips Troy. Just downloaded my Model A plans ;-) Now to find some LW-PLA which is in short supply over this side of the pond. The Eclipson team are producing some amazing aircraft designs. The guys at planeprint have just released their Tucano which could be an interesting one. Thanks again!
@@fraserwhite73 I have the Tucano on the printer right now only have 4 more Fuselage parts left to print out. I will be starting to assemble it next week. I will have build and flight video of that plane up soon. I am looking forward to flying it.
i am not expert. far from it. but I have printed out a few pla airplanes.. and I ran into your problem with my first aircraft. after that crash. I used Lexan as a firewall. then added airflow holes to help with cooling. I don't know it this will work.. but it has for me
That's why I don't 3d print the whole plane, it does make much more sense to use 3d cut foam for fuse and wings, they are much more durable. 3d printing is for auxiliary parts: mounts, horns and so on.
I agree that the best use of a printer for this hobby is for addition parts like that. But I have had some good flying and really cool looking 3d printed airplanes.
Cooling air outlets... That's what's missing. I used to fly the 2m electric patter competition planes. Bigger motor, bigger battery... Same issue... Cooling airflow. Bigger outlets than inlets. Otherwise good job.
The definition of an engine is the combination of two or more simple machines working in combination to perform an action. An electric motor is very much an engine. Most engines are not motors, most motors are engines.
Troy, a key part of the reconstruction is the separating of broken pieces from good pieces at the glue joint. How do you achieve this without damaging the good bit, in particular the 'female' side of the joint. I know you show dealing with the nose part, but you want a bit fast over the important bit.
SWEET little plane man. Nice job.
When I was building RC models, my instructor kept saying that the engine and chassis mounting were the two most important places.
They are to be made of solid wood. And not pine, but beech, for example.
Plastic, unfortunately, is not good. And you already know it yourself.
But I also have a question - how does the manufacturer of the plane's plans view it?
Because if this was designed in the plans, it is clearly a constructor's error.
Great rebuild.
nice, but I recommend turning the volume up when editing your videos.
@Kase Krew instaportal is a scam and u know it. Stop advertising this nonsense
I have recently downloaded the Cub from 3D Labprint and I see they've revised the nose quite a lot. Now there's a lot more cooling because the nose is open behind the prop and the motor is held in a sleeve that they tell you must be printed in PET for better heat resistance.
sweet repair
Thanks for sharing!
Great rebuild, and I think the balsa wood was a great idea to create a heat break. I hope it works for longer flights. I am a bit concerned about it though as the previous plane seemed to melt below the motor as well, not necessarily all right where the fasteners are located. I was thinking maybe it would be helpful to cut some kind of breathable hole or grill just below the prop and somehow duct the air coming in through that grill up directly to the connection between the motor and the balsa wood. You could even 3D print a perfect little duct with the right bend in it. The amount of air coming in through this duct would be plenty enough to divert the heat from the connection point. Or you could even duct the one or both of the existing vent holes to the electric motor? This might not be necessary as your heat break seemed to work, just a thought to protect on longer flights in hotter conditions. Awesome video!
Thank you for the comment. I built a 3d printed part like you suggest check out my next video on my channel to see the build process of it. It works very well now and I have taken the plane out multiple times after to fly it and it has been flying great.
Troy McMillan that’s awesome to hear I will subscribe and check it out!!!
@@logantrigg6037 Thank you so much Cheers
How about gluing PLA with methilene chloride? Technically it dissolves plastic making strong bond. Also you can make a “slurry” like acetone+abs for filling holes or breaks. I tried in other prints with good results but never printed a plane. Hope to make one like yours in a couple weeks.
good luck with your build thank you for the tip
Combine sections with pla screws, mabe its better them glued for repair. Just print the demage parts..or industrial plastics screws
Where is the exit hole for the air that enters the nose?
In the tail of the fuselage
Hi there! I really like your videos and your work!
Maybe you can purchase a 3d pen to easier repair your 3D printed planes. So you can add some extra layer of PLA to the broken parts or on the glued broke lines.
i guess Im asking the wrong place but does anyone know of a tool to get back into an instagram account?
I somehow forgot my password. I would love any assistance you can give me.
@Rodney Patrick Instablaster ;)
@Lyle Israel thanks for your reply. I found the site thru google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff now.
Seems to take a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@Lyle Israel It worked and I actually got access to my account again. I'm so happy!
Thanks so much, you saved my ass!
@Rodney Patrick No problem :D
I've been thinking of printing one of these. I would love to see more videos of it.
I have lots of video of this plane. Check out my TH-cam channel for more videos of this plane. It is a fun plane to fly. Cheers
Hello Troy, what camera do you use for the fpv ? I love what you’re doing, keep going!
2:42 The original C-152 has an ENGINE but your model uses an electric MOTOR. You don't have an engine but do have a beautiful model.
Thank you
The definition of an engine is the combination of two or more simple machines working in combination to perform an action. An electric motor is very much an engine. Most engines are not motors, most motors are engines.
Commenting on an old video but wouldn't it be possible to print just the section that acts as a motor mount (in this case the nose of the plane) in a more heat resistant filament like abs?
Nice video, what about filling the airplane with expandable foam to give it more strength?
Not needed for any 3d printed plane :)
The Part, I´ve seen in Video at Frame time 0:56 min., looks not so fine printed. There are mistakes in Filament flow at some Layers. These will collaps at flight. Your Filament comes not continously out of the nozzle. Please check if, there is an extrude-problem. Perhaps the bowden or sometimes blocked Filament or the Stepper slips through (maybe to fast or too cold).
Nice! I plan on getting a 3D printer around Christmas time... I have been flying for a long time and have done my own designs with foam and look forward to the challenges of the 3D printer. Since I work with AutoCAD on a daily basis I am looking forward also to designing my own models. Thanks for the Video I will check our more..
Thank you for the comment. I enjoy working with 3d printed airplanes. Setting up the printer for thin wall can be a bit challenging. It is nice to be able to work in cad and design any small part needed or build new planes. The ability to design and make any custom part is amazing. Have fun with it. Let me know if you need any help with settings.
its important to have max quality setting on the motor mounts/ necelle bc It is an critical piece.
Is this based off of a 1976 CE-150M? Your N# you used used to belong to someone in Montana
Hey Troy, really enjoy your build videos. Just in the process of building my Eclipson EBW. Can I ask what paint you use to spray your models ? Is in an acrylic ? Cheers and keep up the great work!
Hi Fraser thank you for the comment. I use (KRYLON COLORMAXX) paint + primer. It works great for 3d printed parts. The main thing to be cautious with is the tap to use for clean lines without bleeding. I have tested a lot of different tapes. The best one is (FROGTAPE). Have fun with your EBW. I just built the new model A it flies really good and I used LW-PLA. Eclipson is working on a new model right now. I will be building it soon. Keep a look out for it. Cheers
@@TroyMcMillan Thanks for the tips Troy. Just downloaded my Model A plans ;-) Now to find some LW-PLA which is in short supply over this side of the pond. The Eclipson team are producing some amazing aircraft designs. The guys at planeprint have just released their Tucano which could be an interesting one. Thanks again!
@@fraserwhite73 I have the Tucano on the printer right now only have 4 more Fuselage parts left to print out. I will be starting to assemble it next week. I will have build and flight video of that plane up soon. I am looking forward to flying it.
i am not expert. far from it. but I have printed out a few pla airplanes.. and I ran into your problem with my first aircraft. after that crash. I used Lexan as a firewall. then added airflow holes to help with cooling. I don't know it this will work.. but it has for me
That's why I don't 3d print the whole plane, it does make much more sense to use 3d cut foam for fuse and wings, they are much more durable. 3d printing is for auxiliary parts: mounts, horns and so on.
I agree that the best use of a printer for this hobby is for addition parts like that. But I have had some good flying and really cool looking 3d printed airplanes.
Cooling air outlets... That's what's missing. I used to fly the 2m electric patter competition planes. Bigger motor, bigger battery... Same issue... Cooling airflow. Bigger outlets than inlets. Otherwise good job.
Gluing the spinner is maybe not the most practical thing hehe.
That landing footage was superb. Oh, and nice repair:-)
Thank you so much!
My model b snaped in the air there is not even one survived segmemt😂
It's NOT an engine, It is an Electric 'MOTOR". There is a difference.
In the context of RC modelling its a model engine so people still refer to it as such. But you are technically correct.
The definition of an engine is the combination of two or more simple machines working in combination to perform an action. An electric motor is very much an engine. Most engines are not motors, most motors are engines.
너무잘생겨서 영상에 집중이안되~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
3d printed planes are very fragile unfortunately 😢