How to Build Eclipson Model C 3D Printed Bush Plane - LW-PLA
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ม.ค. 2021
- This is a 3D Printed Eclipson Model C. In this video I will show step by step how to assemble and paint this airplane. From roles of LW-PLA to full flying RC airplane. Links bellow to all materials and parts. During the assembly of this plane I made a mistake with the tail wheel assembly. The tail wire should not be glues to the lower rudder. There should be a bend right at the tail fitting STL part so that the impact of the tail wheel will be on the end of the fuselage and not on the rudder hinge. I will show the correct way of assembly on my Maiden flight video.
Thank you so much for watching!
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STL Files: www.eclipson-airplanes.com
Artillery Sidewinder 3D Printer: amzn.to/396eqIp
Artillery Genius 3D Printer: amzn.to/39cA6CZ
LW-PLA: colorfabb.com/lw-pla-natural
varioShore TPU: colorfabb.com/varioshore-tpu-...
White PLA: amzn.to/3ghcHl1
Black PLA: amzn.to/30E4YIT
TPU: amzn.to/2Sw3Oe8
AR620 Receiver: amzn.to/3j4PbK4 DX6
DX6 Transmitter: amzn.to/3l6NFsD
2212-13 1400KV: amzn.to/2P13PYU
8x6 Propeller: amzn.to/36cf3yL
1000mAh Battery: amzn.to/353cLmf
450mAh Battery: amzn.to/3k4lY1J
4x 9g servos: amzn.to/31kj82B
10x5x3mm Magnets: amzn.to/3bLcrMB
2x8mm Screws: amzn.to/3p8gmqY
1mm Carbon rods: amzn.to/32lEoW2
80mm foam tires: www.amainhobbies.com/dubro-3....
small 40mm Foam Wheels: amzn.to/2Ie853O
1/8” Wheel Collar: amzn.to/3p4tvl1
3pin wire assortment: amzn.to/3l1xNYt
XT60 connector: amzn.to/3iyZWnf
2mm push rod ends: amzn.to/3nnjD4U
Z-Bend pliers: amzn.to/34mA0rt
Print Settings for LW-PLA
Quality:
Layer Height - 0.25
Line Width - 0.4
Shell:
Wall Line Count - 1
Z Seam Alignment - User Specified
Z Seam Position - Front (Rotate model to have best Location for seam)
Seam Corner Preference - Expose Seam
Infill:
Infill Density - 0
Material:
Printing Temperature - 235
Build Plate Temperature - 60
Flow - 53%
Speed:
Print Speed - 100
Outer Wall Speed - 55
Inner Wall Speed - 55
Travel Speed - 100
Travel:
Combing Mode - off
Enable Retraction - Checked
Retraction Distance - 3 (Stringing cannot be eliminated with LW-PLA)
Retraction Speed - 10mm/s
Retraction Extra Prime Amount - 0.3
Cooling:
Enable Print Cooling - Checked
Fan Speed - 100
Minimum Layer time - 5
Mesh Fixes:
Union Overlapping Volumes - Checked
Special Modes:
Surface Mode - Normal
Experimental:
Slicing Tolerance - Middle
Disclaimer: I am sponsored by some of the products I mention. However, all of my opinions are my own. Some of the above links are affiliate links, that does not effect the price you pay for a product, but I may receive a small commission if you make a purchase. This helps support my channel and allows me to continue to make videos like this. Thank you for your support!! - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
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I'm sure everyone who buys an Eclipson Model C watches your video! Thanks for taking the time. I've got most of mine printed out of Polymaker Polylite PLA-LW. I'm new to printing and RC planes and didn't understand the differences between foaming and pre-foamed PLA. Sounds like I ended up taking the easier route with the heavier but easier to print pre-foamed. Once I realized what I had with the Polymaker, I was able to get my settings dialed in well enough. Slowed the Bambu P1S down and cranked the temp up to 235°C. Not sure if I should try going hotter but it seems maybe my temp. sensor is not accurate as 235°C seems high? My first 3D print was a tracked version of Benchy then I went right to the Eclipson fuselage. Thus I don't yet know much about printing.
Looks like Eclipson has added holes for a ø6mm wing tube stiffener? And I see you mention they redesigned the #2 fuselage section for beefier landing gear mounting.
Hopefully my plane doesn't end up too heavy to fly well. I only compared a small part thus far for PLA to PLA-LW. My scale only goes to the nearest gram but I'd say the Polymaker PLA-LW is a bit more than 25% lighter with my settings.
I love your videos on 3d printed airplanes. The videos are clean, they include tips and tricks and the results are always great 👍🏼
Thank you Lucas I appreciate that
Perfect .. and more than beautiful ..
This is AWESOME. TRENT needs to promote this on his channel.
Thank you
I like Eclipson and even more when you do the build and fly videos. Great great job.
Thank you
Almost finished my print, using as many of your links as possible, can't wait to fly it. Still trying to learn about mixing ( I have a DX 6, just not sure how to set it up , a most of my flying has been Horizon preset stuff). Thank you, you got me going farther on 3D printed planes !!
Thank you! You don't need to use mixing for this plane, it can be set as a flaperon. I am glad I could help :)
Beautiful. Nice flyer. The 3D printing is revolutionary.
I so agree :)
beautiful beautiful, just amazing!
Thank you
Impressive build! Looks to be flying great
Thank you
Amazing!
yep thats really makes me want to build one and try flying. Thank you and i wish you a happy new year and the best for 2021!
Thank you for the comment, Happy New Years to. you also!!
i always love youre landing gear
He is not a landing gear.
I love the red. Congratulations on your build.
Thank you
Your build and fly Vid. are perfect, thank you. 🥳🤙
Thank you
Another fun build... thanks.
Thank you cheers
Thank you man!! I always dreamed of doing what you do!! :)
It looks great in red. Congratulations.
Thank you
Beautiful printed plane!
Thank you
Nice work. I'm really digging the paint job.
Thank you that took a bit of work but defiantly worth the time.
Tus videos son lo máximo, en unos días construiré mi primer avión gracias a tus videos espero tener el mejor de los resultados saludos desde Ecuador.
Your videos are the best, in a few days I will build my first plane thanks to your videos I hope to have the best results greetings from Ecuador
Great job
Thank you Robert
Superb !!!
Wow! Awesome build! And a great job on the video! I definitely need to invest in a 3D printer.
Thank you, 3D printed airplanes are definitely awesome.
Troy, I love your videos on 3D printed planes. I'm just getting started and I have a newbie question. I'm trying to figure out how to mask off areas for painting. I see you use green painters tape which I have. Your masks look extremely precise and sharp. How do you go about cutting the tape without damaging the surface of the plane? I haven't tried it yet, but it would seem like using an X-acto knife would possibly cut through the thin printed surface, especially on these LW-PLA prints. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!
Very nice job!
Thank you
Printing a EGW80 now - very very well designed for printing. Trying regular PLA for now
I am printing one with PLA also I will have a video out this week to compare the two.
@@TroyMcMillan Great!!
nice video, nice plane.
cool build just curious if PLA can withstand the direct sunlight because i thought it would break pretty soon because its PLA.
Awesome video, thanks.
It seems everything is glued together? Does any model has detachable wings and tails so that it’s easier to replace parts after crashing? Thanks
Great work, Keep it up.
Thank you
As if I didn't have enough project going on my printer. Its videos like this that is going to force me into buying another printer.
Thank you for the comment.
Amazing work my friend. Just amazing. Big salute from Slovenia, Pilot Robert
Thank you Robert, I appreciate the comment I always enjoy watching your videos. Cheers from Las Vegas
@@TroyMcMillan 3D printed planes are so interesting. Iam planing to buy printer in the future and have some fun. Your birds really looks so great and the assembley is perfect. Keep up the good work and all the best in the future. Cheers ( and thanks for stopping by at our channel. Always feel at home there )
What would be nice for these 3d printed planes is hardware kits with all the little bits and bobs you need to make them.
Wow nice 😍😍😍
Wow. This guy is Amazing. I feel jealous if your free time 😁😂😉 I want also to build something like that one of these days. Great job. Your skills are amazing. Really. Impressive work.
Thank you
Awesome Troy, where did you get hose metal control linkage horns? also the 2mm cutter?
Hi Troy - in fueslage 3, it printed great for me, except for the vertical rib in the base of that piece of the fueslage. it starts off with some loops or extrusion that didn't quite grip, but it then forms the majority of the rib.... did you have this issue? Checking the preview in Cura shows that it should have bridged, but it didn't, about 10 layers later they all look fine... any ideas?
This is sick! Can't wait to start 3d print projects. Where do you get all of the rods and spars ?
You make some great build videos man! I really like this plane but I mostly fly 3D planes and am wondering if the weight (and/or design) limits it to just cruising or can you huck it around a little? Thinking this might be cool to slap a DJI FPV camera on.
This plane is pretty strong for sure. Yes an FPB camera would be nice for this plane I have seen people do that a lot.
Video is a great help. One question, the holes in the wing parts are 4mm dia. The pin printed is 6mm dia. what am I doing wrong or not understanding? thx, Tom
Looks like a upgrade from foam, its there better performance over foam? A clear coat might be worth while
For wing3 L&R how many bottom layers did you add? The print sheet shows 0. The gcode has a solid bottom.
Really good video. It would be great if you could make a build video of model D of eclipson.
am-a-zing !!!
good share
Hi Troy, nice build as always 👍. What type of paint do you use to spray the airplane? It is beautiful. Does it add any noticable weight?
I used Krylon Paint&Primer all in one. Unfortunately I did not weigh the parts before painting. After I was done painting I thought of this and should have weighed them first.
Hi Troy, I love the videos and have been following for a while.
I am experimenting with LW-PLA for the first time and just want to clarify the ideal print temperature. I am trying to print the Eclipson Model A trainer and am having some difficulty dialing in my ideal temperature. I achieve the greatest expansion 200% at 255*C however when I print a test piece the part feels very brittle. I noticed on the drawings that your recommended print temperature is 235*C. Is 235*C the best balance between expansion and strength?
Can you recommend what temperature you print at to achieve the best strength
Yes I do recommend 235C at 53% flow. At 255c the material foams to much and is brittle because there is more air in the material the lower the temp the more strength it has but needs to be above 230c to make the foam reaction. Thank you for following my builds. Have fun with the model A it flies very well.
Hi Troy, I'm just about to have a go with the Model C myself. So far so good. Do you have any print settings for printing the tyres with the colorfabb varioshore TPU, the way you provided the settings for the colorfabb LW-PLA. Or is there another video of yours where you discuss this. I couldn't find one.
Many Thanks
Great video and amazing build . How do you paint the LW-PLA ?? when i try to spray paint it becomes soft and fragile..
I just make sure to use multiple light coats and let them dry between coats and I have not had any problems with them getting brittle.
Nice! Any chance this model can be printed on Prusa Mini (18x18x18cm)?
Thanks!
It needs 200mmx200mmx200mm build plate
I'm in the middle of assembly everything is going fine. One comment though about the wheels. Since I don't want to get into a bunch of specialty PLA (i.e. LWPLA) and am using normal PLA for the plane Eclipson says to not use the TPU printed wheels if you are using normal PLA to print the plane. They recommend using foam wheels which are lighter. So I ordered the 40MM foam wheels in your materials list. I got them the other day and they are way small compared to the printed ones. I fly on a grass field and I'm not sure they are going to work out. I've tried finding some larger versions that still have the correct 2.0mm axle size but no dice so far. I've looked at DU-BRO and no luck there either. It seems in this hobby that there is always at least one detail that threatens to kill the deal so to say and this tire/wheel thing may be it.
I built a PLA version of this plane to compare the materials and I used regular TPU for the tire for that build. th-cam.com/video/YkGxwpNvmZQ/w-d-xo.html. It flew ok but still needed a bit more power I used a 980KV motor with 8x6 prop for the flight. After that I changed it out to a 1400kv with 8x6 prop and it flew much better. So you can use regular TPU it will just be a bit heavy. The tires are 84mm in diameter here is a link to some tires that would work better on grass and have 2mm axel www.amainhobbies.com/dubro-3.00-micro-sport-wheels-2-dub300ms/p130274. I. will add this link to the description also. Good luck with your build.
@@TroyMcMillan Thanks for the link on the wheels and comment on your experience using TPU wheels, I saw the linked wheels on the DU-BRO site when I was looking for options but for some reason didn't see that they were 2mm axle. I'm going with a 1250kv motor as recommended by Eclipson. When buying that motor I noticed in the specs that one prop option was a 9x4.5 running 3s or 4s. So I purchased some of those size props along with the normal 8x6. So now I'm thinking of turning this endeavor into a wheel-a-thon by mixing and matching wheels, props and even battery c count. This is probably going to take some time as I'm sure there will be a crash or two or three somewhere on the journey as crashes are firmly in my DNA.
Hi Troy, Thank you for the great video. I have a question. I am trying to find 2212-13 1400kv but I couldn't find it. but I found SunnySky X2212 KV980. Can I use it? or If I can't, can you please recommend any compatible motor? Many thanks.
Black paint on PLA causes it to deform quickly in the Sun. Wouldn't light gray be better?
Hi troy first build of this 3d plane ,after seeing you vids 👍my question is after trying to print 11&12 part number rudder 1& 2 doesn't print a solid bottom ie ends are blank not sealed when print starts ? As i notice yours was what changes did you make in print settings for this ? Any help appreciated in this iam using cura thanks👍
Hi, i just finished mine in normal pla, i have a question. Did you have any issue with center of gravity, mine weight 830gr with a 90gr lipo but i need at least 100gr more on the nose. So i will buy a 2200 mha 3s to m1ke it right.
Nice vid, nice plane. Would this be a good first 3d printed plane to try out?
Yes this is a good plane to print first.
troy? You make really great build videos brother!
Thank you
Hi Troy, congratulations for the excellent job ! We're also trying to assemble a PLA plane, similar to yours !
Just one question: what kind of glue are you using? Super Glue? Hard plastics Glue? Thanks.
Hi! its medium ca glue!
When will this file be available on the Eclipson site?
WOW 👹💪👏👏👏
Happy New Year Troy, and thanks for making another video.
I'm having an issue getting good prints in Vase mode for single wall prints - I get a lot of bumps on the side; sort of like you'd see with Randomizing Z Seam.
Is there any way you could post your CURA config file(s)? I watched your video on printing, and still have this issue.I've done a LOT of 3d Printing, however, most of it has been with 1.2mm walls at the minimum.
Happy New Year to you, I posted me settings I used in the video for thin wall in the description. Unfortunately both with PlanePrint and Eclipson airplanes you can't print their parts in Vase mode. So I would recommend turning vase mode off and locate the Z seam in a specific location (Back). If you rotate the part you are printing so the Z seam in on a corn this works the best. As far as bumps on the side of your prints when I have seen this issue it is because I had combing on and avoid printed parts selected. Turn all of this off. But if you do have it in vase mode this will not be the problem. Try some of this and let me know. Cheers
@@TroyMcMillan Ah, that explains the issue. Thanks for getting back to me so soon.
Another great video Troy.
What LW-PLA profiles did you use, and which slicer? The parts look so clean with no stringing - much better than I've ever achieved with LW-PLA.
I use Cura for slicer. Yes there is no stringing for these parts become of Eclipson's method of limiting the movement of the extruder. The only parts with stringing is when it prints the tabs for sliding the parts together. I use all the same setting on the Eclipson PDF files for their models. They are all the same setting and works perfectly.
The design is done in such way that there are no travels.
Many thanks. I'll try Eclipson's settings with Cura.
What is holding the wing as one piece when there is a high load?????
Hello Troy
Merry Christmas time to you from Switzerland
I have problem with slicing Eclipson Model C, part Fus2 (item 6)
I just bought the STLs for the Eclipson Model C (2 days ago). The slicer in use is Prusa, and the print is with eSun PLA+ filament, (Printer Ender 3 Neo). It works fine so far, the wing sections are made and some fuselage parts as well.
I have one issue on the fuselage section Fus2 (Item 6): If I slice with Prusa (or Cura for that instance) it will not create the straight reinforcements for the landing gear mount ovals.
Pictures in the attachment.
If I load the G code from the original Eclipson file on the Prusa G code viewer, it creates those reinforcements.
The STL file shows the reinforcements as far as I can tell.
The slice settings are all in accordance to the instructions and your videos.
Can you help me with this issue?
Thank you for your time.
Ps: I posted this on the Eclipson Airplanes Pilots Facebook group as well
Sincerely Edi
What brand of paint was used on the model?
You don't fear the limited temperature resistance of PLA in summertime, especially for dark coloured parts?
I have flown 3D printed airplanes in the heat a lot and have not had much trouble with this.
Do you spray paint directly on the PLA without any primer?
What kind of spray do you use - 2K with lacquer or normal acrylic spray?
I use Krylon Paint and primer
I'm new to all this. Can it be printed with standard pla? What are the Categories on the build plan ( a, b, c)? thank you.
Yes it can be printed in regular PLA it will just be heavy and not fly as well. There is no category it is just the names Eclipson has for there planes.
Hi Troy, my name is Ian, I'm from Brazil, I realy apreciate what you do, and I would like to say that tha you've developed and flown amazing planes, and I would like to start print a beginer plane, how can I get or buy the data to print? I have a Ender 3 pro
An ender 3 pro is a good printer to have for your first build. The STL files can be purchased from Eclipson.com The links for the STL files are in the description of the video to purchase the STL files. www.eclipson-airplanes.com
So which temperatures and flow did you use for both light weight PLA and varioshore tpu?
LW-PLA 53% flow 235c Varioshore the same but turn the speed to 30 mm/s
When are you going to build and upload the model b xl?
Im thinking of buying a jgaurora a5, can you share your settings for lw pla, so I dont waste much getting it Dailey in for a single layer thin wall ptint.?
My settings are in the description at the bottom
Would the plane still fly alright using a pla+ filament which is heavier that lightweight pla
Probably not unless you use a very powerful motor and a powerful battery but it would only add more weight. I wouldn’t recommend.
Bonjour, le modèle D, n'est pas sur le site ECLIPSON, ou peut on l' acheter, merci.
how much does the finished plane weigh, because I think mine might weigh too much
What esc are you using? I don't see a link?
noob here. crossing over from fpv quad building.
good job man im doing this stuff to in the uk printed 3 planes in a week, i cant keep up with my printers 🤣
Ya it is a lot of work for sure to build and print planes in a week. My printers are running 24 hours a day. Cheers
@@TroyMcMillan Its the glueing part which is annoying, but printing them out is a walk in the park. is there any more websites like 3dlabprint.
@@3DLL. Yes I agree the printing is easy when you have the setting set up for the printers. Yes there are other websites like that. This model is from
www.eclipson-airplanes.com
The other planes from my channels or from
www.planeprint.com
@@3DLL. if you´re interested in Gliders also you can check out my designs: 3d-printz.at. Greetings from Austria
Troy, did you have any issues printing the new Fuselage 2 part? All that new support material, starting about 1.5 inches up from the bottom, seems to want to starting printing without any support. It looks like a run of 1 3/8 inches straight from a cross section to the outer wall. For me, it all ends up as strings... never attaching to the outer wall. Thanks.
Apparently this is the fix for the landing gear. The support eventually "catches" and forms a bridge, but it takes a number of runs before this happens. I stopped the print twice thinking something was wrong. Eclipson says "let it keep printing". Ok then.
Troy what type/size screws did you use to attach the wings to the fuse and the motor to the motor mount?
For the wing use M3x30 machine screws with 3m nut. Motor mount M3x6.
@@TroyMcMillan Thanks Troy, Your the best!
What settings have you used for your Tundra tires.
For Various TPU
60% Flow
30 mm/s
240C
10% Grid Infill
2 Walls
3 Bottom Layers
4 Top Layers
If you want to use regular TPU just set 100% Flow
Hallo! ab wann kann ich das Modell C kaufen und Downloaden...............?
Hi Troy very nice videos!! where can I find the Model C to buy because I can´t find it in eclipson-airplanes.com????
How did you get the stl files for this airplane?? It is NoT available yet on the site!!!
Eclipson will have it available soon.
Is 53% flow the magic number or 0.4mm wall thickness?
For most printers 53% works good. I use 55% for some printers.
How did you tape it off and spray it with out having any paint bleed under the tape?
painters tape
Thank you for this video Troy, one question, the LW-PLA is kind of expensive, like $140 for one roll, is that correct? How many airplanes like this model could be printed with just one roll? Could you tell us the total cost of this model? Trying to make sense if is cost effective. Also, is this LW-PLA available for sale in the USA? Thank you for the awesome content.
The only place that makes LW-PLA is ColorFabb in the Netherlands. So to get it in the US you need to ship it. I payed $30 for shipping an bought 2 750g roles. I Paid $120 including fast shipping. So one role should be less than 100 to have it shipped. When printing thin with this material you print at 53% flow. I have only printed 2 of Eclipson planes on the same role and still have plenty left over I am sure I can get 3 planes maybe 4 planes from one role of LW-PLA. As far as everything else goes I put links to all the parts I used for this plane.
You use only 50% of flow rate with LW-PLA so the price will be half. To print this model you will spend like 12 USD. Colorfabb send you the material also to USA
Hi, thank you for the video. Can I ask if you sell and ship the 3d printed plane?
Thank you, as of now I am not selling any planes
👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
When measured with a dial calipers, what is your wall thickness of the fuselage sides and wing skin area? Which settings would need to be changed for the thickness? What would cause a bulkhead to print on bed side of the fuselage? Eagle printed needs put together. Started printing the Eclipson Mod C. Still figuring out the settings in Cura. Trying out the new PolyAir LW-PLA. Used most of the ColorFab on the Eagle.
It is .4 mm thickness if it is to thick reduce flow setting. I print LW-PLA around 55% flow. Have fun with your builds. Ya I just saw that new LW-PLA from 3dlabprint and want to test it out.
@@TroyMcMillan Just printed the center wind section and the top skin is not attached spar or cross rib sections. Ideas? I will need to increase the flow rate since I am getting an average of .27mm skin thickness. I am pretty sure I have a .4mm nozzle installed, time to check.
@@TroyMcMillan What setting would cause the top skin of the center wing section to be not attached to the rest of the wing structure?
@@Stubby0266 Ya definitely increase flow rates that is too thin of walls. Also maybe take your nozzle off and clean it. It could be clogged up having that thin of walls.
@@Stubby0266 The wall thickness could be to thin
No carbon road inside the wing even with lwPLA?
I will never print pkane without carbon rods again. I printed the model b and the wing snaped in mid air at mine
hi ready to buy this plane where can i get stls
Hey Troy, I just purchased the model C and started printing it, however I do not see where the tab parts used to help align and hold the parts together are in my files. Any help you have would be appreciated.
Never mind found it. 😂
hi Troy, very beautiful plane and very well done video...where I can find the files, Is not in production yet?
Will be available soon: www.eclipson-airplanes.com/
Eclipson is still working on this model they will have it out for release soon.
@@TroyMcMillan well, I will follow the site..thank you very much
I have an issue with printing wing sections when dropping the g-codes straight into my ender 3 pro (with glass bed). The prints are perfect with one exception: the surface which was attached to the printer bed is not perfectly flat, it raises slightly at both ends which results in gaps when I'm joining the sections? Any clues? Bed temp is 60 deg. I had the same issue when printing my model T, both prints are in LW-PLA.
I have this exact same problem with my Ender 3. Switching from the original to glass bed helped a little. Thought the bed must be warped. Most sections printed fine, but the right side of Wing_C that sits against the bed will not print perfectly level no matter what I have tried so far. I am slicing the .stl files with Cura, not using the g-codes. Anyone that has a potential solution would be helpful!
Level your bed. Search up some tutorials. You're gonna need to raise your bed a little using the screws under the bed to make it go up to down.
add some onboard footage as well... showing rudder, flaps, ailerons etc. in action
Yes I agree I just need a small lightweight camera.
@@TroyMcMillan runcam or mobius will be fine
@@Shreyam_io Thank you, I just ordered a runcam look to for some on board shots. I am not sure I will have it for my video this weekend but definitely my next build. Cheers
I see the option for a center carbon spar, but in the video I do not see holes for the spar in Wing_C, Wing1_L, or Wing1_R. So how exactly is the spare to be installed? Or is there an updated version of these 3 parts?
They updated the wing to include bowden for carbon fiber spars (maybe wood/balsa will work as well). Definitely use spars as the wing is not strong enough without them.
@@ThomasGillot Awesome, do you know what the diameter of the carbon needs to be please?
Troy, did you have much of a battle with stringing and printing faults? You documented your problems with the Cessna 150 pretty well. Here, it seemed like not much of a challenge. Better files? I hear LW-PLA is a "trial by fire."
The 152 was much more difficult because 3dlabprint does not use Cura as a cutting software. Eclipson has a special way they design their planes to print with no retraction so therefore no stringing at all. So it is ideal for LW-PLA other company's it is not the same.
@@TroyMcMillan HHHmmmmmm. Makes me think that maybe buying a 3DLabs plane might not be the best decision when it comes to ease of printing and assembly. I think they ought to revise their files for the rest of us that don't want to buy a $700 printer and $150 slicing software.
@@warbuzzard7167 We work with cheap printers (ender 3) and cura to understand the problems that most people will have and to make the design more adequate for everybody and not only for those with expensive printers.
@@warbuzzard7167 Yes exactly. If you want to print one of their planes easily the best option is to have a Prusa. If not good luck
Hi
I want to buy the STL files from this aircraft! But unfortunately I can't find it on your website!
They don't have them available yet they will have them out soon
It will be available soon
@@TroyMcMillan Thanks I am waiting!
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👌👌👌