Don, enjoy your videos, your wealth of information is exemplified by how you present it to us. Your gift is in presentation, you make us feel like we can do the job, by speaking clearly and professionally, your camera work is second to none. Thank you for sharing, you're a good neighbor from afar.
Thank you donyboy73; you just saved me a lot of grief and concern. You answered my question as to how to remove and replacement of the pre-starting primer line. You are the best! God bless.
This was helpful in that towards the end that leaking is what I experience a lot of the time, I was thinking about replacing the primer line, but now I'll just go look and see if it is on there tight and otherwise in good shape (no cracking or anything), and replace it if necessary. Of course it was also very helpful in the rest of the how to as I couldn't figure out at all just by looking at it a few minutes ago how somebody on amazon replaced it in 5 minutes. Now I know. Thanks Don! (Time to put the blower back into storage, at least we got a couple uses out of it this year, and also finally changed its oil after several years of having not even thought about doing so. Also helpful to see that your blower runs about at least as loud and shakily as my MTD even after that oil change.)
thanks for the tip on gas runoff if you over-prime, my Tecumseh has been rather an ornery starter but if I prime until some comes out it starts much easier.
Work smarter not harder. Great video Don! These old Tecumsehs will run forever if you change the oil and keep the carb/governor dialed in properly. Thanks for the great tip!
Once again Don, you bailed me out. I broke the primer line on my Tecumseh when I changed the carburetor. I figured I would run it without, but when I saw this video, and saw how simple it was, I decided to fix it because it is much easier to start when you can prime the carb. One point you made that is critical, use a GOOD QUALITY electrical tape. I used some Harbor Freight crap that wasn't very sticky and the tape didn't hold the first time I did it. Fortunately, I was able to get the old line back in place and I was able to get it on the 2nd try when I switched to a higher quality tape. Thanks again Don. If I had a nickel for every time your videos have bailed me out, I'd be a rich man.
Thank you so much for this.! I've been fought with mine years ago, although it's a Briggs & Stratton. I finally gave up and took it to a shop, because I couldn't get the engine apart enough to work it out. Stupid primer lines seem to dry out and break every other year. You just saved me so much time and energy. Wish I would have seen this sooner.
Thank you for the nice videos. I first thought I would have to take my Craftsman all apart to replace the primer bulb and it was quite a releif to see how easy it was. Now after trying to start it I realize I will need to follow your other video on the carburator that's probably cloged.
Works great to get a fuel line through the transom of a boat, through the rigging tube and into the cowling of an outboard. Changed my fuel lines this way.
Great video. That looked so quick and easy I may go out and buy a snowblower and I live in Florida. So I probably won't do that. Never the less great time saving tip. Thanks for sharing.
thank you! Didn't understand why I couldn't start my engine.....was spraying it with ether....instead the primer line had broken....took me 5 mins and started on the first pull.....My engine was made in 2000 and my 10.5 HP Tecumseh still runs.....no wonder they went out of business LOL.
I always use a short section of tight fitting threaded rod threaded into the ends of both lines before taping them together. You can also use a chunk of the threaded end of a machine screw that you cut off. I have had just the taped joint come apart and this seems to prevent this from happening. Taping just the lines is a lot like taping just the insulation of two pieces of wire without the metal wire inside. It can be done but it makes the tape joint easier to do and more secure if the wire is inside, and in this case the “wire” has teeth in the form of the screw thread.I cut the end of the new line off where the screw thread was before installing it on the carb/bulb to make sure it has an undamaged end going on to the fitting. You need a short section of threads to make sure it can snake its way through any passages. Keep up the demos. You would still be earning an “A” if you were my student teacher.
Hey man helpfull video. What engine is that on ur blower. I have the exact same engin but its on their trac drive system and all the badges have fallen off. I got it second or 3rd hand and need assistance
@donyboy73 *Dony - i was wondering if you would consider doing a video on what your personal opinion is regarding:* 1-the best overall snowblower brands (say top 3, top 5, top 10...whichever) 2-the best snowblower transmissions by and large (as in what brand(s) have the best ) 3-the worst snowblower transmissions by and large and which brands tend to have them 4-what brands you find easiest to get parts for , in terms of the walk behind snowblowers. - Thanks (PS -- you've done quite a few videos on snowblowers [especially the recent ones ] that have helped me keep my friends snowblowers going that i've watched this year. Thanks a million )
Great video, the line on my snowblower may need replacing because I press the bulb many times and still doesn't start on pull or even the electric starter unless I add fuel directly. It used to be that I would prime a couple of times and it would feel "full", as in I couldn't press the bulb anymore. Question, do I need to empty the oil and gas before I tip the snowblower? Thanks!
thanks for the vid dony i need to do this to my dads but his is a single stage snapper and a little different engine his is an old school 2 stroke but same concept the fuel primer will be easy to install.
Great video! You make it so simple. Just curious though - how do you know if your primer line needs replacing? Is it as simple as it sucks/blows air when you press-depress it? Or did you know this through a visual check?
Good stuff. I do like my Tecumseh powered snowblower: ever since I went thru it cleaning everything and replacing the head gasket, it has run like a charm, starting first pull even after storage. (Electric start stopped working and I haven't really looked into it yet - that would be a great video if you're looking for ideas...)
I liked mine too. Had to replace it 2 years ago and my new Craftsman has the honda style carb and it's a real PITA to work on getting it off. And you can't get to the fuel line to add a shut off valve. I loved working on my tecumseh! Easy as pie.
great video, I have bought a aftermarket primer buttom and it sit loose in the socket . I think it is better to by a original primer buttom they sit firm in the socket
most lines are all gooy from the ethanol fuel. I couldn't get tape to stick if I needed to. I short piece of bbq skewer works too. Seems like I am replacing more primers due to ethanol too, especially on push mowers. Nice tip though. Many E- Bay deals come with a precut length of primer line and primer for a few bucks, you can do the skewer method on those too.
Dony, Great stuff! do you have a vid on why a 8hp tecumsah stalls after running for five plus minutes? fuel cap is fine, replaced plug, gas, fuel line, checked float. cleaned fixed jet. next is a coil. After it dies, i can prime twice and it will start again, then die after more time passes. Can't figure it out.
The video "Snowblower starts, runs for a short period ... then stalls" by Caper Camper might answer it. Part of the gas cap was missing and the tank wasn't venting. Also, search Google for "tecumseh stalls after running" for other answers.
It sounds like the float bowl runs dry and then refills when you prime. Sticking float needle? Priming forces air into the space between the carburetor body and the float/fuel level. The fuel is pushed down and driven out through the jets into the venturi. That air pressure could also be breaking a vacuum that develops in blocked jet air bleeds. A bad coil would behave differently between a cold and hot engine.
I'm in need of a video that shows how to replace the primer fuel line when it's broken off inside the housing. I dont have a simple pull through line like in this video. I was replacing the Primer bulb thinking that was the problem but it wasn't and the hose it attaches to is broken off inside It's for a Ariens 1336 Pro; engine is a Tecumseh ohsk130-223815d
Not hard. I do them all the time. You do have to remove the shroud and take your time. Note which hole the governor shaft goes into on the carburetor before removing. I usually take a photo so I wont forget. You can look to see which hole has an oblong wear mark but some do not get that. You can even use a paint pen to mark the location but it will come off if you clean the carburetor.
@@jameslawlor1404 I have been buying the Oregon brand carburetors now. They are cheaper than the original and the quality is way better than those $15 specials on E- Bay.
Don, does Tecumseh still have a website with engine and carburetor diagrams and parts lists? If not, who does? I'm having trouble finding info. Thanks.
My mom has complained about her blower being hard to start even with the electric starter, cranked forever. It's been that was for 4 or 5 years. I finally got around to checking the whole thing over for as complete no start, which was water in the fuel. Anyway, during the tuneup procedure I found the primer line was completely rotted away. She hadn't had a functional primer for years, and it was for a dollar worth of tubing.
Ahh that handy tape :-D Have you tryed wider tape but stick it lengthways on the pipes to make a slimmer join? Lengthways should have enough surface to only need one tape strip.
ALWAYS USE HIGH OCTANE FUEL WITH NO ETHANOL TO PREVENT DAMAGE AND COSTLY CARBURETOR REPAIRS ON YOUR OUTDOOR POWER EQUIPMENT!
donyboy73 Shell high octane has no ethanol, Esso used to have it in there premium grade but not sure if still free of ethanol.
You always "work smarter and not harder!" Thanks for the tip.
Don, enjoy your videos, your wealth of information is exemplified by how you present it to us. Your gift is in presentation, you make us feel like we can do the job, by speaking clearly and professionally, your camera work is second to none. Thank you for sharing, you're a good neighbor from afar.
thanks David
Donny Boy is the Gold Standard of snow throwing maintenance and repair.
You are amazing. With your common sense, a lot of grief and aggravation are avoided. Thanks a ton.
Thank you donyboy73; you just saved me a lot of grief and concern. You answered my question as to how to remove and replacement of the pre-starting primer line. You are the best! God bless.
Dony your the best. Enjoy watching your videos especially that particular make as it’s the same as mine.
Thanks Dony, you really helped me to understand how to replace the the primer Assyrian and line. Awwesome video,! Thank youHi Dony,
Thank you for the simple yet complete explanation. It is very helpful!
This was helpful in that towards the end that leaking is what I experience a lot of the time, I was thinking about replacing the primer line, but now I'll just go look and see if it is on there tight and otherwise in good shape (no cracking or anything), and replace it if necessary. Of course it was also very helpful in the rest of the how to as I couldn't figure out at all just by looking at it a few minutes ago how somebody on amazon replaced it in 5 minutes. Now I know. Thanks Don!
(Time to put the blower back into storage, at least we got a couple uses out of it this year, and also finally changed its oil after several years of having not even thought about doing so. Also helpful to see that your blower runs about at least as loud and shakily as my MTD even after that oil change.)
thanks for the tip on gas runoff if you over-prime, my Tecumseh has been rather an ornery starter but if I prime until some comes out it starts much easier.
My favorite Tecumseh repair site.
WOW - I thought I was going to have to pull off the recoil and motor housing to get at the carb. Huge help - Thank You..
A simple thing that many wouldn't think of.
I haven't had to do one yet but I don't know if I would have thought of that.
Good job, thanks
Work smarter not harder. Great video Don! These old Tecumsehs will run forever if you change the oil and keep the carb/governor dialed in properly. Thanks for the great tip!
Yeah I'd sure like to figure out how to adjust the carb/governor to dial it in properly… too much sputtering that I don't think was there originally…
Once again Don, you bailed me out. I broke the primer line on my Tecumseh when I changed the carburetor. I figured I would run it without, but when I saw this video, and saw how simple it was, I decided to fix it because it is much easier to start when you can prime the carb.
One point you made that is critical, use a GOOD QUALITY electrical tape. I used some Harbor Freight crap that wasn't very sticky and the tape didn't hold the first time I did it. Fortunately, I was able to get the old line back in place and I was able to get it on the 2nd try when I switched to a higher quality tape. Thanks again Don. If I had a nickel for every time your videos have bailed me out, I'd be a rich man.
Thank you so much for this.! I've been fought with mine years ago, although it's a Briggs & Stratton. I finally gave up and took it to a shop, because I couldn't get the engine apart enough to work it out. Stupid primer lines seem to dry out and break every other year. You just saved me so much time and energy. Wish I would have seen this sooner.
Thanks for the video...my primer line rotted away from the carburetor...this helped a lot!
Thank you for the nice videos. I first thought I would have to take my Craftsman all apart to replace the primer bulb and it was quite a releif to see how easy it was. Now after trying to start it I realize I will need to follow your other video on the carburator that's probably cloged.
Thanks Don - I was about to remove all the cowling in order to get to that primer bulb. Ugh. This is waaaaaay easier.
Great video, had my dad show me that trick one day when we was changing out a fuel line on his garden tractor.
First time on your site, via Bruce Pender, happy to be aboard, first video, and helpful!
Thank you Dony Boy! Thought it was the bulb, looked at the carb and the line had broken. Good as new
Great video, a real time saver vs pulling the cover off.
This guy never ceases to amaze me! Again, another great vid Don!
Works great to get a fuel line through the transom of a boat, through the rigging tube and into the cowling of an outboard. Changed my fuel lines this way.
Fixed. Thanks. Go ahead and snow make my day.
Now that's pretty slick.
Also 1/8 inside diameter...useful.
Thanks
Thank you DB73 for another Educational video, May God Bless !!!.
I have also put a wire up through and used the wire to run back down. Good tip.
Great tip, didn't know I could take out the bulb so easily, thanks.
This was the exactly the video instruction I was looking for. Great Job and thanks!!
Great video. That looked so quick and easy I may go out and buy a snowblower and I live in Florida. So I probably won't do that. Never the less great time saving tip. Thanks for sharing.
Pretty slick idea, Don. Thanks, Man!!
Nice job as always Don. I was always taking everything off to replace things. Never thought of this way.
great tip! good editing of the video.
thank you! Didn't understand why I couldn't start my engine.....was spraying it with ether....instead the primer line had broken....took me 5 mins and started on the first pull.....My engine was made in 2000 and my 10.5 HP Tecumseh still runs.....no wonder they went out of business LOL.
good tip fellow Canadien , merci beaucoup !
More excellent content from Don The Small Engine Doctor...always enjoy your videos Donyboy♥
I always use a short section of tight fitting threaded rod threaded into the ends of both lines before taping them together. You can also use a chunk of the threaded end of a machine screw that you cut off. I have had just the taped joint come apart and this seems to prevent this from happening. Taping just the lines is a lot like taping just the insulation of two pieces of wire without the metal wire inside. It can be done but it makes the tape joint easier to do and more secure if the wire is inside, and in this case the “wire” has teeth in the form of the screw thread.I cut the end of the new line off where the screw thread was before installing it on the carb/bulb to make sure it has an undamaged end going on to the fitting. You need a short section of threads to make sure it can snake its way through any passages. Keep up the demos. You would still be earning an “A” if you were my student teacher.
Don,
Great tips as always.
Thanks a lot 👍
Thanks for the tips donyboy73....you are the best! Good vidéo and good explanation!
Nice tip. Also be careful pulling of the line off the bulb as it may break the barb. Sometimes need to pre slit the line to get it off.
Excellent job, so easy! Thanks for sharing.
Thank you, this worked perfectly!!!
Great tip on taping the primer line Donny, I also use that trick on brake cables on big commercial riders and quads.
Hey man helpfull video. What engine is that on ur blower. I have the exact same engin but its on their trac drive system and all the badges have fallen off. I got it second or 3rd hand and need assistance
@donyboy73
*Dony - i was wondering if you would consider doing a video on what your personal opinion is regarding:*
1-the best overall snowblower brands (say top 3, top 5, top 10...whichever)
2-the best snowblower transmissions by and large (as in what brand(s) have the best )
3-the worst snowblower transmissions by and large and which brands tend to have them
4-what brands you find easiest to get parts for , in terms of the walk behind snowblowers.
- Thanks (PS -- you've done quite a few videos on snowblowers [especially the recent ones ] that have helped me keep my friends snowblowers going that i've watched this year. Thanks a million )
Great tip Don. I really appreciate your videos. Thank you!
I have fuel coming out of the primer bulb when priming and when fuel flow is on,Any advice on a fix would be great.
Thank you so much this was a life saver for me!!!!!
Great video, the line on my snowblower may need replacing because I press the bulb many times and still doesn't start on pull or even the electric starter unless I add fuel directly. It used to be that I would prime a couple of times and it would feel "full", as in I couldn't press the bulb anymore. Question, do I need to empty the oil and gas before I tip the snowblower? Thanks!
Good old engines, the best for snowblowers.
You’ve got that right. They run for life times if the oil is changed and ethanol is kept out of the fuel.
+Mobil 1
thanks for the vid dony i need to do this to my dads but his is a single stage snapper and a little different engine his is an old school 2 stroke but same concept the fuel primer will be easy to install.
great tip! Thanks. My honda doesnt even have a primer like this but its great info anyway. Merry Christmas!
I do the same but use a barbed tube fitting to join them.
Great video! You make it so simple. Just curious though - how do you know if your primer line needs replacing? Is it as simple as it sucks/blows air when you press-depress it? Or did you know this through a visual check?
Love your videos
Absolutely great video, thank you
Glad you enjoyed it!
Good stuff. I do like my Tecumseh powered snowblower: ever since I went thru it cleaning everything and replacing the head gasket, it has run like a charm, starting first pull even after storage. (Electric start stopped working and I haven't really looked into it yet - that would be a great video if you're looking for ideas...)
I liked mine too. Had to replace it 2 years ago and my new Craftsman has the honda style carb and it's a real PITA to work on getting it off. And you can't get to the fuel line to add a shut off valve. I loved working on my tecumseh! Easy as pie.
Simple!
Thanks Dony!
great video, I have bought a aftermarket primer buttom and it sit loose in the socket . I think it is better to by a original primer buttom they sit firm in the socket
yes I only use oem Tecumseh primer bulbs
Where are the links?
After watching all your videos, I feel like applying for an apprentice job at your shop. (Ha Ha)
most lines are all gooy from the ethanol fuel. I couldn't get tape to stick if I needed to. I short piece of bbq skewer works too. Seems like I am replacing more primers due to ethanol too, especially on push mowers. Nice tip though. Many E- Bay deals come with a precut length of primer line and primer for a few bucks, you can do the skewer method on those too.
Great tip. Thank you for sharing. 🇨🇦😎
This is like electricians fishing wire. Good tip, thanks.
Very good analogy.
Great tip,as usual. As an aside, can this same machine with an 8.5 horse engine, support heated handle grips and if so, do you sell them?
what if u dont have a primer I have a older 8 horse power. How do u do a primer if their is no place to put a hose on the carb
I think I burnt out my electric start. Any videos on that?
Great tip Donny!
Again awesome video thanks
What about just blinding that primer? New primerbulb not worth it. Anything I havent considered?
I basically have the same machine which needs primer fixed also only runs on full choke...any suggestions...I appreciate the help...thanks
First thing I would do is clean the carburetor
@donyboy73 thanks...will do...always enjoy your videos
I don't see the link for purchasing the replacement rubber primer line.
Ditto !
will be adding it today
Why does my B & S snowblower only run while being primed??
Thanks
Donny where can I purchase the bushings (plastic) for the inside of the wheels.
Good engines . With a little maintenance the run for ever . Thanks
Dony, Great stuff! do you have a vid on why a 8hp tecumsah stalls after running for five plus minutes? fuel cap is fine, replaced plug, gas, fuel line, checked float. cleaned fixed jet. next is a coil. After it dies, i can prime twice and it will start again, then die after more time passes. Can't figure it out.
The video "Snowblower starts, runs for a short period ... then stalls" by Caper Camper might answer it. Part of the gas cap was missing and the tank wasn't venting.
Also, search Google for "tecumseh stalls after running" for other answers.
Thanks. Gas cap looks intact. When I took the carb off, I watched the gas flow with cap on and it seemed fine. Don’t think that’s it.
It sounds like the float bowl runs dry and then refills when you prime. Sticking float needle? Priming forces air into the space between the carburetor body and the float/fuel level. The fuel is pushed down and driven out through the jets into the venturi. That air pressure could also be breaking a vacuum that develops in blocked jet air bleeds. A bad coil would behave differently between a cold and hot engine.
@@fordprefect9749 thanks ford. I bet ur right. I will replace the carb.
I replaced the entire carb...
Great video. Much appreciated.
Did you forget to give us the link to where we can buy the primer line?
will be adding it today
Is Walmart's "Super Tech Universal 2-Cycle Engine Oil" (comes in various sizes) safe to use on handhelds and snowblowers?
Where is the link sourcing the fuel hose on-line?
How do I prime the primer w/ gasoline? I have a very hard time starting the first time of the season. HELP
I'm in need of a video that shows how to replace the primer fuel line when it's broken off inside the housing. I dont have a simple pull through line like in this video.
I was replacing the Primer bulb thinking that was the problem but it wasn't and the hose it attaches to is broken off inside
It's for a Ariens 1336 Pro; engine is a Tecumseh ohsk130-223815d
Reliable motor. Good video. Thx
I have seen you are from Ontario! Do you have a shop where I can bring my blower in to be fixed?!
Great video.Thx
Brilliant idea.
Great tip. Thanks
Donny, how easy is a carb swap on that same engine? Thanks.
Not hard. I do them all the time. You do have to remove the shroud and take your time. Note which hole the governor shaft goes into on the carburetor before removing. I usually take a photo so I wont forget. You can look to see which hole has an oblong wear mark but some do not get that. You can even use a paint pen to mark the location but it will come off if you clean the carburetor.
RC Hobbyist Extreme
Thanks much. Appreciate the reply
@@jameslawlor1404 I have been buying the Oregon brand carburetors now. They are cheaper than the original and the quality is way better than those $15 specials on E- Bay.
RC Hobbyist Extreme
Great tip thank you
This is great , cant wait till I can try this out
Don, does Tecumseh still have a website with engine and carburetor diagrams and parts lists?
If not, who does?
I'm having trouble finding info. Thanks.
on partstree.com
@@donyboy73 Good site. Shows what I need. Thanks for the link.
Grease the axle before putting the wheel back or use antiseeze compound
rk22cc Amen to axle protection. Nothing rusts on like a snowblower wheel used in the road salt/ snow.
I’m surprised he didn’t mention it.
Thank you. Thank you.
Didn’t see the link for the line
How about a video on servicing/replacing the nose tip on a chainsaw bar with a replaceable tip?
Good tip, thanks.
Where’s the anti seize on the wheel axial?
lol
I was looking for that also.
donyboy73 just to show you we are paying attention 😀
@@williamgreazel8715 lol, good students
My mom has complained about her blower being hard to start even with the electric starter, cranked forever. It's been that was for 4 or 5 years. I finally got around to checking the whole thing over for as complete no start, which was water in the fuel. Anyway, during the tuneup procedure I found the primer line was completely rotted away. She hadn't had a functional primer for years, and it was for a dollar worth of tubing.
Ahh that handy tape :-D
Have you tryed wider tape but stick it lengthways on the pipes to make a slimmer join?
Lengthways should have enough surface to only need one tape strip.