Honda TRX450 Quad Bogs and Dies (Nobody Can Fix It)
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ส.ค. 2024
- I work on a Honda TRX450 quad that bogs and won't rev out. #Honda, #TRX450, #Mystery,
►SUBSCRIBE: / @2vintage
►MY SECOND CHANNEL: • New Polaris ATV Snow P...
► ADD ME ON ALL SOCIAL MEDIA ◄
► FACEBOOK: / 2vintageyoutube
► INSTAGRAM: 2_vintage_ / 2_vintage_
► SNAPCHAT the2vintage
► EMAIL FOR BUSINESS INQUIRIES ONLY: 2vintagetooo@gmail.com
Thanks for watching and subscribing!
New videos every week!
The following video features activities performed in controlled environments by knowledgeable persons. DO NOT attempt to duplicate, re-create, or perform the same or similar activities at home, as personal injury or property damage may result. 2vintage( Joe Weber, the persons shown in this video and ANY CONTRIBUTOR, ARE NOT LIABLE FOR ANY such injury or damage. ALL 2vintage( Joe Weber) CONTENT IS FOR ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES ONLY.
2vintage (Joe Weber) makes no representation about the sufficiency of any safety precautions and equipment used in this video.
Kinda makes you wonder how many other bolts are loose. Especially if they did the whole engine. I would be worried.
Yeah for sure!
I've seen bolts all over the clutch side come loose and trx450rs. I go through with a torque wrench, check for torque. If not torqued, I pull the bolt, air cimpressor the oil out of the case threads, clean bolt, blue loctite, torque, sit for 24 hours before start up. It's pretty common
Sounds like there's at least 6 very loose bolts ,god dammit!🤨🤔🤯😱🤯🤔🤔🤯😬
Don’t be a little girl
@@craigmorgan4676 sounds like any trx450 I've ever heard, they're seriously some noisy ass engines and microphones honestly amplify it it seems
I have the same problem with a 06 mod, it’s probably the acceleration pump in the carburetor. That solved my problem
Before stripping it down I would ideally want to try a different coil/lead and CDI just to eliminate also try spraying carb cleaner or something flammable around the intake area to see if it change the idle, due to leakage.
Great video!
I own two of these quads and they are quite noisy engines, but it is difficult to hear through the mic. One thing you can look for is the tiny jet in the bottom of the bowl on the carb. It has something to do with the accelerator pump and it is common for TRX owners to change them. Also, as it is written on the throttle box, DO NOT use throttle whilr starting the engine. I stripped two one way bearings doing that and it is probably the reason yours was bad. Good luck!
Yup. They should be able to start on their own with no touch of the throttle.
1) Make sure the TORS system is functioning correctly (one inside carb where throttle cable goes in, and button inside thumb throttle). I usually bypass the TORS at the throttle by clipping and then connecting the wires under the hood.
2) Swap another FCR if you have one. Will eliminate or confirm carb right away.
I'm leaning towards electrical. 120 is super small but I believe Honda used really small mains, especially in the 06+ models. With stock exhaust and intake, jetting shouldn't be causing complete shotdowns. Missing and bogging, yes, but not that.
Always enjoy your videos. It is also so refreshing to have a you u tube “mechanic” not pretending to know everything
I had many years ago a Honda Transalp with a fueling issue. Would idle ok, and go without problems till mid rpm, but when you rev it would die. Cleaned and balanced the carbs didn't fix it. New spark plugs, same issue. Checked the cdi units, coils, etc, to no avail. You know what it was? The fuel petcock. The friggin petcock. Nearly set fire to the whole thing out of rage. Keep the good work and see what's wrong with that honda. Cheers!
Sometimes the carb body itself gets clogged. You have to completely strip it down and soak overnight in carburetor cleaner. The good stuff that you buy at Napa in a one gallon container. Stuff is potent. Then blow out with compressed air. I had a YFZ 450 carb do this to me once. Cleaned it 3 times with carb spray and compressed air. then I finally did what I said above and it ran great. Not saying this is your particular issue but just sharing my trial and errors with that particular carb. Keep running it down with new videos!
I love how easy it is for him to find parts for everything he’s working on, I can’t even find a gear shift shaft for my 86 kdx 80😂😂😂
Try emc cycle in Michigan
I would check the mid body gaskets or the accelerator pump 🤷🏾♂️
Another excellent video. I think it may be the rod like you said, but I guess we’ll find out love videos can’t wait for the next one. Thanks for all your hard work making the videos.
That sudden stop is indicative of a rod bearing going bad
Crazy I’ve been watching you for years time flies
Hi there Joe keep up the good work, don't let the jealous people get to you
Possible bad gas. Always good to change it out with some freshie. Sounds like it was running better before you changed the needle height. 😊
I used to be a hater but keep on going man. It’s hard work doing what you do so frequently. God bless
Im glad my trx is a kickstart. Except when it kicks back and hits my shin
Hey FYI those valves on those Motors constantly need checked and shimmed and when you set the decompression arm don't use feeler gauges set it by cylinder pressure the cranking psi is 50psi I just sold my 2006 there awesome bikes
Clicked the video cause I had one of those same edition quads, 07 red frame with the flame graphics. It was by far the favorite quad I've ever had. Hopefully you get it figured out. I was shocked when I took mine apart to change the jetting at how small the stock main jet is. I cut the airbox lid at the molded in line, removed the exhaust core and went to a 180 main jet. It was like a whole different quad after that. Im in Indiana so about 750-800 feet above sea level. The biggest problem I had with that quad was the float needle would stick on it, a lot! It just never seemed to move smoothly up and down in its bore. Sometimes it would stick shut and the quad wouldn't start at all, Id have to blow into the fuel tank vent and it would pop open and start. Sometimes it would stick open, id turn the fuel petcock on and it would immediately start leaking fuel out the vent hoses. Id put the quad up on the grab bar and then push it over and let it slam down on all fours and it would free it up and stop leaking. Can't begin to count how many times I took that bowl off and cleaned that needle. Always was irritated with that carb, ran great when it was right. But it didn't just happen when the quad sat, I could be in the middle of a weekend riding we would all stop for a break in the woods and id look down and fuel was just pouring out the vent tubes. Quad wasn't clapped out or neglected either, I bought it brand new and this started happening within a year.
Trx 450s have 2 drain bolts brother
1 for engine side
1 for clutch side
There isn’t much it can be on the carb it’s pretty simple I’m thinking something internal isn’t right
My Trx 450 I’m running a 175 main 45 pilot and 2& a half on the fuel screw but I have a full exhaust and open air box
Runs amazing . Stock Trx 450s are jetted exactly how yours is in this video so it can’t be the jetting sizes , unless maybe the main jet is clogged . That thing should be running perfect rn . Definitely gotta look into it .
I was wondering about the ‘do both sides’ comment. @Miami, what notch are you using on needle? Love the videos Joe.
@@tkaczerski middle notch
Heres a tip put a thin film on the gasket with light grease keeps it from sticking .
Was taught that in 1988.
man you are like a ATV/Dirt bike whisperer great content keep it up. Been watching all your videos and makes me want to get back into them :)
The worst jobs are when someone who does not know what they are doing works on a bike and then expects you to fix it . Going thru everything they did to find a mistake is a pain . Have someone who knows how to fix them do it the first time . Trying to save a buck is usually costly ! I will not except jobs like that any more .
Please open your garage door when you are running engines, I want to continue to watch your videos
I had an accelerator pump issue that caused this on my YZ450f
Look at the crank runout when you were turning it over with clutch cover off, looks like crank pin it broke.
This!
There we go. NO BODY AND I MEAN NO ONE could fix this gem. Great job.
Pfft.
Lol
I think it’s a combo problem. Throttle sensors are bad, and the rod bearing is bad, or was installed wrong when they rebuilt it, or was the wrong size. Everything else checks out, so thats the only two things it can be.
Hey Joe! I have an 06 crf 450x had same issue I would check carb mid body bolts if they still have white paint markings it has never been taken apart so it's time to replace mid body gaskets and confirm the accelerator pump circuit is functioning properly. The aftermarket aluminum mixture screws sometimes are not exactly the same dimensions as the stock brass one I have seen the tip twist and break off inside before when bottoming the screw to set it... Hope this helps.
Randomly shutting off like that for me has always been a rod bearing locking up on the big end.
Your cranking compression on the electric start trxs should be 65 psi cranking with throttle closed. It has a decompression so it’s not gonna read high. Kick start models should kick at 85-90. The jetting sounds about right for stock but if the air box lid is off you need to go up towards 160, if you take the core out of the exhaust then go 175-180. You also should split the mid body of the carb apart those will get you. Also verify the accelerator pump timing is correct.
You also probably should eliminate the tors system. It causes issues starting. I’ve to do it on 4 of them now.
Throttle sensor, accelerator pump, air leak and possibly the rod bearing starting to go.
I think you’ve a few small gremlins still in that bike joe. Good luck with it
You can use the red loctite and if you ever need to take a propane torch heat the bolt a little bit and it will break free it will come right out I do it all the time
Straight from the internet: What size jet is stock on a TRX 450R?
Image result for honda trx 450 main jet
It can be removed with a small flat-blade screwdriver. The pilot jet is the one that controls low RPMs such as idle. Stock jet numbers on our 450R were a #42 pilot and a #122 main jet.
I had one doing similar things and would just die randomly and when trying to take off from a standstill. I deleted the TORS and clutch switch. The Tors delete fixed it. Takes about 10 minutes and it’s free. Worth a shot before a tear down.
9007c0109a70412e8f84-17cbb53619a640a777e85fbe5231c890.ssl.cf1.rackcdn.com/articles/2552_I01-2512.pdf
Motion Pro Article to delete TORS
120 is probably the size needed with the airbox closed ant the restricted snorkel. The center of the FCR has orings that are probably bad and to stop the bog replace the leak jet with a #55
check the CDI and ignition coil bro. Run a primary and secondary winding test with OHMS on your multi meter. sounds like it's misfiring.
I would check that quick adjust fuel screw, some have a washer and o-ring at the end of the spring, very easy to lose. Some cheap ones just dont work right.
The first run where it was popping on overrun is likely an air leak.
Should have checked the accel pump while the carb was off, the throttle bog sounds like the early versions of the fcr that needed modding.
Ho Lee Chit another adventure for us . I’m excited to see the rest of the story.
Install a 180 main jet,. And a 48 pilot jet then plug the bleed hole in the bottom of the float bowl,, the big will be gone and you don't have to use the coke,. It should start with out it and, the pilot jet screw is adjusted correctly
Love the content. Just wondering which sport quad is your favorite and why. I’m buying one this month and am trying to do as much homework as I can before spending thousands.
Need to time the sensors on the carb with your ohmn meter, check manual for readings. Also clean the leak jet in the bowl. Around 100hs the mid body on the carbs need to be rebuilt
I have a 07 crf450. If TPS sensor has been pulled from the carb and not installed exactly, it can cause issues. I believe I used a power source and had to pin 2 wires to get a certain voltage and it was very peticular where at. Rod bearing usually makes a nice mess of the oil.
Probably big bored, have to jet accordingly.great vid.
First thing i noticed was..why straight water in the radiators??? Clutch basket had a chip outta it..gotta tear it down n see for urself joe.also- shoot air thru all passages (mite be metal chunks stuck) and gap plugs when u install em..my 2 cents! 😃👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍dont trust other peoples work !!!!
Just in case you are not ware, antifreeze acts like a lubricant for the water pump shaft. Darned important to have the half water and half coolant mixture - never pure water - for long time usage.
Need a work platform about 18" high you can roll the quads and bikes up on to work on them . That working on the floor will tear your body up in time .
Great video man, so informative I love learning about bikes I've never worked on. Something does sound like its rattling from the motor. deff make a video on the updates
Think ur rite one of the case bearings is going out
I'm still watching the video but I'm toward the end and u haven't figured the problem out yet but the whole time I'm saying to myself it has to be the valve lash, it has to. Then just now u said the valve lash was good. So this one here has me stumped for once lol. I can't wait to here wat the exact problem is. Well I'm going to go finish the video now. But I just had to say this is definitely a good one for gear heads like myself to watch, take care.
I like this one I had the same quad a few years back it ripped pretty good. Looking forward fir the next video👍🏼👍🏼
It may have spun a crank out of allignment, if they changed the rod bearing but didnt put it back together rigth, that would explain bad idle and engine running rough, also one way bearing may have broken because of that, you could check it easily by putting something close to rotor and checking the gap while spinning
Doubt it is the carburetor. I can clearly hear the engine noise which is not normal. That will need addressed either way. If the rod bearing is as bad as it sounds that will cause all kinds of sporadic running issues until it completely gives. A air leak that bad if one would be easy to find. Not to many places they can leak air from. Just for giggles check the spark with a in-line spark tester. See if it has good consistent spark. I am curious myself to see the condition of the crank and rod bearing. 🤔
It's difficult to tell through a mic. These motors running normally are exceedingly noisy.
You know nothing about honda 450rs, the engine sounded like it was gunna fly apart since it was new.
I saw some damaged gears in that engine. Clutch basket had some damage too
Check your gas tank on and off valve could be partially plugged
The Issue can be the TPS messing up the timing and a small Main Jet and needle too high to compensate that.
i had an 06 trx 450 i had the same issues for a while i had to use a hole saw and cut a port in the lid of the air box and buy a r&d jet turn knob it seemed to fix it for me also had to replace the the one way bearing as well and im pretty sure i jetted up as well ... i did run into a problem with the header glowing when ideling but not if the quad was moving hopefully this may help you . i watch all your videos keep up the good work brotha!
I thougt those had regular oil on the shifter side and straight 50wt for the clutch side
Did you check the slide place position? The hole in the slide goes towards the bottom, it will fit either way, but won't run correctly with the hole towards the top.
It sounded okay at first once you shut the choke off but you turned the gas off before you shut the choke off I will say something sounds tight the way the engine sudden stops when it dies
Took 12 hours for all those bolts to loosen up. Just being silly here. Really enjoy your videos.
Motor is fine. Rebuild the carb and make sure the throttle position switch system is good. Also make sure you put the correct stock plug in it. Had all the s
Same issues with my 07. Their noisy motors, I rebuild mine and didn't need to. If it's a rod problem the oil filter would have a bunch of brass/copper looking metal it it. Also that ain't is small. You're on the right track!
Starter Clutch, i have an 07. This is a common problem with these. Also there a jet on the bottom of the carb that gets full of gunk
I'd say Rod bearing as it's heating up the rod bearing is seizen up which is shutin the quad off
Man you have patience, I would of taken a BFH to it.But you'll fix it I have faith in you. You will find the l problem.
Joe, loving these videos, well and truly hooked on your channel. Question, if I’m working on a bike without kickstart, what can I use to power it while faultfinding? Just connect it to any motorcycle battery charger or I need something else that won’t roast all the electronics? Thanks
Bought one for dirt cheap that would only bump start. Changed stator run perfect.
The best mechanic I know! Can fix anything
lololol
Run ethanol free gas with octane booster , new carb or new needle and seat at least
this is interesting i cant wait to see what the problem is. thanks for sharing and have a great day
I'm still thinking carb. Rod bearing would most likely be tight all the time. Just the fact you took the throttle wire off and it ran better. I'm old though and don't know about these newer bikes. I'm sure you'll find it.
I don't think that's the crank bearing worn out. It' has to be some fuel related issue. Something with the carburator or maybe a sensor. I thought also that first thing to try is jetting. That main seems way to small for a 450,.but I checked it and is the OEM size. It's the right one.
If that easy adjust air jet is aftermarket they tend to leak around the threads so I would check it
For the people that don't know... You clean carburetor jets by poking a very thin wire, carburetor cleaner, and hitting it with an air compressor. Not by blowing through it. Don't know why Joe does this.
You can clearly see the carb gasket pinched outside of the bowl before you even took the carb off
The valves were in spec correct. The engine should run even if the crank is slapping unless the rod bearing seized up. But that's not the case because its turning over. I think it's got to be some kind of safety switch. Maybe a switch in the carb. Unless the got a cheap rebuild kit and the specs on gets and etc were not correct
ask previous guy who built it what ring gap was when he put motor together, ive heard that noise with rings a thou to big after heating up.
I got the '08 T-Rx 700xx
Throttle position censor maybe. Seams like was run good on idle but once you hit the throttle it cut out
I had an 07 that would die for no reason! Turned out to be the petcock had rotted in the fuel tank and would block the fuel line at the tank.
Please do a 450r build. Such a good 450 quad.
JOE LOVE THE NEW PAIR OF GLOVES. YOU REALLY GET YOUR MONEYS WORTH OUT OF THEM👍🏾🤣
I got a 400EX in on trade and it was covered in metal flake I'm kind of curious where it came from
Can't test comp with the decomp cams. Pilots should be 45 to 52 range, and main should be 155 to 185. Stock, no, especially after there was a rebuild. I'm at High elevation (5k ft) and my 94mm OEM bore size, and have a 50 pilot and 175 main with the lid off. Accelerator pump could be crap, midbody gaskets as well. I'd start with carb. Even if there is internal damage, you'll still need the carb functioning properly for it to run anyhow. I'd start there. Easier and cheaper. Also, did they delete the the oil cooling system?
mine did the same thing even 3 shops couldn't figure it out so i took it back home and took the carb off come to find out it had a vacuum leak on the rubber boot that the carb goes into into had a crack in it so it was sucking air
Check the valve lash
Common issue with 2006 2007 and others is carburetor accelerator pump etc they're a pain in the ass I have dealt with several
Yeah that could be the culprit. Seemed like it was working okay when I had the carb off.
I’m kinda leaning towards something electronic like in the throttle/carb link that they have together.
Love the vids joe !!!
@@Wisconsin-boysIt's a spammer/scammer
@@stevenmccary4058 I kinda figured 😂
Those 2007 models are notorious for that exact malfunction!
It's not the rod bearing, that wouldn't cause the running issues but could be the noise. My guess would be fuelling or ignition side of things due to the backfiring.
Idk if it has a knock sensor but if so a rod bearing could make ecm retard timing and cause loss of power and stall out
Good video joe stumped at what it could be myself could be a number of issues maybe just got that anti run right fuel in it lol I’m sure you will get to the bottom of it take care and good luck 👍🔧🔧🔧👌😉
valve shims. or something with the acelecerator pump
Did you check the pumper diaphragm and all of it's related passages and jet? I didn't see you disassemble that part of the carb.
Yes I did. Everything looked good. Diaphragm looked great!
@@2vintage Ok, good deal. That said, every time I've had this problem with FCR carbs, the issue has been in the mid body gaskets...the gaskets and o rings that are not supposedly accessible. They of coarse are and not hard to do. They would be my first guess as the problem, especially on one of this age. Ethanol based fuel just melts them and they clog up everything.
@@thevoxofreason8468 okay I've never taken those apart before. Definitely could be the problem. I will look into that! Thanks
I guess on the crank oil seals, spray the covers with brake clean if it revs up, while spaying, the seals are bad. Cheers from Germany
It's a four cycle engine,...
@@ghettsumm7949 yup my bad
Im surprised you don’t put fuel filters on everything there cheap.
Carb wiring tors bypass maybe
Probably re jet it. Sounds sick.
Carburetor or that bearing. It was running and taking throttle so I'm leaning towards the bearing since you said it sounds crunchy
Check the cdi box.