Great advice, Mike. So many of us LR owners have been through this and learned the hard way, especially with rotted chassis. Frustrating to think LRs could have all been built with galvanised chassis, bonnet and door frames right from the factory and this would have saved untold headaches and heartaches. There were South African Defenders built with galvanised chassis, as were the Australian Perenties, as many of us know. Sometimes I think the biggest mistake Solilhull ever made was not adopting the Perentie specifications for immediate production at Lode Lane. What a different outcome that would have been!
Yeap - they had it all and threw it away! Dealers all over the world, all but gone now, forever cutting costs. Perentie would have been a great base - 3.9 Isuzu instead of all the crappy 2.5 variations of the 2.25 petrol - and in 1984! And I have noticed with LR products, that they seem to get the customer to do the testing of the vehicles - the spline wear in the LT77/R380 would never have come out of a Japanese factory! But for years they ignored the problem, selling gearboxes as the wear only came apparent when they ran out of warranty - how they got away with it beats me. And rust! Don't get me started! Also, out of interest, I once measured the wing metal thickness in my S1 compared to a Defender - it was twice as thick!
@@BritannicaRestorations I totally agree with all of the above. The saddest thing to contemplate is what could have been. The buyers were there, the markets were there, the manufacturing capabilities were there. And yet it all went to hell in a hand basket. I really have to question the decision makers who were there in the BMC, then BL to the present JLR years. What the bloody hell were they thinking?
@@badfinger61 totaly agree - land rover management took the niche market - the range rover and all what came after it. they thought and did make more money on it then with the defender, which was completely overprized at the end, but they did make more money with the range rover. here in colombia - south america in 2012 - a new defender station priced about usd 85.000. can anyone believe this?. this was insane. and the best part: you had to show your financial credentials before they even start showing you the car. such arrogant bastards. and they didnet stop there - look the new defender - its such a joke to call it defender. but i guess its the downside of success. you dont care anymore because you have a enough customer who buy your crap anyway just because its a land rover.
When you look at the 60's in the UK, and the formation of BMC, then Leyland, Austin Rover, Rover Group etc, and all the problems with strikes etc, (I know I was in the UK at the time) Land Rover were the only profitable part of the group, so they were used as a cash cow - no wonder the Japanese took over
I remember watching that the first time over. I spent a great deal of time rust proofing my 2015 110. This involved treating what was light surface rust with Kurust and painting with Correless chassis paint and finally spraying with Dinitrol 3215HS. A very messy job that you really need masks and coveralls. I finished up with fitting a set of extra mud shields from Gwyn Lewis which stops mud being thrown up into areas that will cause serious corrosion after a period of time. It is very important to jet wash the underside rather than keeping the body shiny, especially if your driving on salt laden roads. Defenders don't inherently rust any worse than other trucks but you must remove the caked on mud at all costs. That truck in your video really is a basket case!
The caked mud will act like a sponge and soaks salty water up Yeap - rustproof them well and then an annual check £50 worth of DINITROL 1000 or the like squirted in the doors is a better investment than £2000 worth of replacement doors!
Are the Gwyn Lewis shields doing a good job? I put a galvanised Marsland chassis on ours seven years ago don't do much mud honestly, at the moment I'm treating it with Lanoguard yearly, I live near where they're based in Newhaven UK.
I remember this video and the classic raccoon whisperer video as well. I have given alot of thought to these pointers when I bought but some things I just had to live with. Fact is, alot of people with these dont want to sell now so alot of times just happy for an opportunity to buy.
Good repost, one of the first videos of yours I watched, and a comprehensive look at potential pain and penury. I always wondered why the crap-trap, box section chassis was chosen and not C-section like trucks and (older) Unimogs... One thing which no-one really mentions is how tiny a Landrover (older) really is. There's less room in the cab than a Ford Ka, so definitely get in one and have a drive before even contemplating buying one. If you are the same size as those in the 1950's (5 foot nothing and 9 stone wringing wet) and you need to drive daily along narrow cart tracks - fine, that's who and what they were built for. Anyone else has to contemplate if they really can stand long hours in a cramped cab without resorting to rear bulkhead remova,l and swapping the doors for Series ones (without door cards, or winders) just to grab a few extra inches back and sides - all the while peering out the top 3 inches of a narrow windscreen just barely cleared by the pair of Austin Morris wiper blades, as an archaic heater huffs at the condensation like your Grandad cleaning his spectacles. On the other hand, I'm not going into the middle of nowhere in an electronic sofa, that takes 3 men with laptops to fix because an indicator bulb blew and several ECU's had a neurotic meltdown. I'll take something I can keep running with a 40oz ball-pein hammer and a roll of baling twine thanks. Old Landrovers - I hate the magnificent b*****ds.
I've seen some that look almost mint on the outside but when you get looking inside and underneath it's swiss cheese I read the news today, oh boy Four thousand holes in Blackburn, Lancashire And though the holes were rather small They had to count them all Now they know how many holes it takes to fill the Albert Hall
great video, king mike! my guess is, that the image of land rover from the 60 and 70 was the problem. the unbreakable, the toughest go anyware you want, camel trophy, etc. ... that gave the impression, that this cars are so tough - you dont have to worry about rust problems, etc. ... until its to late and the brown disease is all over. poor owner - i think some tough decisions have to be made with this car. . keep us posted which way it goes
Was crawling under mine yesterday with a wax lance getting it rust proofed the best I could. What a sh-tty job and mess, one which I kept putting off but it's done now. Great video and advice for anyone looking to buy.
Most defenders are going to need a galvanised chassis , galvanised bulkhead and a set of Puma doors , and the rear tub mountings repaired, especially the “just re sprayed, new seats and tyres ones )
Very sad the way they rust in wet climates. Here in South Africa in Johannesburg rust is almost unheard of. My 69 2a chassis is rust free. I bought the last defender 90 in the country in 2016 as an investment and it lives undercover and has 1008km on it and is rust free. Any offers to buy?
If I look to Brasil, or Argentina, or Chile, erverywhere very high prices. And to Import Parts today is a nightmare. Since Brexit not rentable to order by Paddock, Ashcroft or others. Because look what you get on Quality by Paddock, or Britparts. It is so poor.....
So what happened with this Landy? I bought our first Defender 90 300Tdi eight years ago... it looks really nice and still does, I know your first is your worst, I still have it and it is staying with me... rotten and bent chassis had to put in a new one, rotten footwells, apart from this the body is pretty good and underneath, the front doors are a bit dented but not rotten interestingly they have been filled with foam it seems to have done the job and a well done job, engine is fine, it is the rest which has been constant work and changing parts and maintenance which it seems wasn't done much the way I do it.
hello Mike, greetings from England, l/rover should be ashamed of themselves, back in the day i found the series 2 the best, had a lot stronger chassis, only when BL took over quality went down, i had the same problem when i had series 3 vehicles, leaks, rust, you name it, g/box problems
Mike! Is there anyway to fix the corrosion and worming on doors. If you sand to bear metal, prime and repaint would that not solve it? (Also once you prevent more water getting in and check for marks on inside of door
From experience - sadly no. Like a cancer, you have to cut it all out, or it will spread. Body filler is made from talc and resin -this is OK for a while, but it will absorb water from behind, then swell and erupt like was seen in the video. Maybe - just maybe, once repaired (I use aluminium body filler as it does not swell but hard to sand) sometimes, you can slow the swelling down and then injecting a wax based rust proofing behind your work you can hold swelling back
take a look in countries without cold winters and far away from coasts - some countries in south america f.e.. but have someone take a look. if the british are very "tolerant" with their evaluations, here they are the picassos offering their cars
Why concentrate on the rusty chassis and bodywork of a landrover rather than the nasty mechanicals, electricals and other components? After all think of the trouble free motoring and freetime ownership brings..... or is that Toyota im thinking of?
Mechanicals are easy fixes - wiring harnesses can be bought new at a reasonable cost - but body and chassis work is very expensive to fix - not unless you bodge it like this seller did and the pass it on…
I always say its not a broken engine or gearbox that kills cars its Rust once it starts its a never endig job to keep it at bay having said that with modern cars/trucks its not rust that kills them its bloody conputers.
land rover owners are starting to think: what is this - free motoring or freetime ownership ... . why they want to take away the lovely smell of gearbox oil, the greasy hands and this lovely afternoons beneath the car ....
Great advice, Mike. So many of us LR owners have been through this and learned the hard way, especially with rotted chassis.
Frustrating to think LRs could have all been built with galvanised chassis, bonnet and door frames right from the factory and this would have saved untold headaches and heartaches.
There were South African Defenders built with galvanised chassis, as were the Australian Perenties, as many of us know.
Sometimes I think the biggest mistake Solilhull ever made was not adopting the Perentie specifications for immediate production at Lode Lane.
What a different outcome that would have been!
Yeap - they had it all and threw it away! Dealers all over the world, all but gone now, forever cutting costs.
Perentie would have been a great base - 3.9 Isuzu instead of all the crappy 2.5 variations of the 2.25 petrol - and in 1984!
And I have noticed with LR products, that they seem to get the customer to do the testing of the vehicles - the spline wear in the LT77/R380 would never have come out of a Japanese factory!
But for years they ignored the problem, selling gearboxes as the wear only came apparent when they ran out of warranty - how they got away with it beats me.
And rust! Don't get me started!
Also, out of interest, I once measured the wing metal thickness in my S1 compared to a Defender - it was twice as thick!
@@BritannicaRestorations I totally agree with all of the above. The saddest thing to contemplate is what could have been. The buyers were there, the markets were there, the manufacturing capabilities were there. And yet it all went to hell in a hand basket. I really have to question the decision makers who were there in the BMC, then BL to the present JLR years. What the bloody hell were they thinking?
@@badfinger61 totaly agree - land rover management took the niche market - the range rover and all what came after it. they thought and did make more money on it then with the defender, which was completely overprized at the end, but they did make more money with the range rover.
here in colombia - south america in 2012 - a new defender station priced about usd 85.000. can anyone believe this?. this was insane. and the best part: you had to show your financial credentials before they even start showing you the car. such arrogant bastards.
and they didnet stop there - look the new defender - its such a joke to call it defender.
but i guess its the downside of success. you dont care anymore because you have a enough customer who buy your crap anyway just because its a land rover.
@@berndeikers8924 It's a shame. All of it.
When you look at the 60's in the UK, and the formation of BMC, then Leyland, Austin Rover, Rover Group etc, and all the problems with strikes etc, (I know I was in the UK at the time) Land Rover were the only profitable part of the group, so they were used as a cash cow - no wonder the Japanese took over
I remember watching that the first time over. I spent a great deal of time rust proofing my 2015 110. This involved treating what was light surface rust with Kurust and painting with Correless chassis paint and finally spraying with Dinitrol 3215HS. A very messy job that you really need masks and coveralls. I finished up with fitting a set of extra mud shields from Gwyn Lewis which stops mud being thrown up into areas that will cause serious corrosion after a period of time. It is very important to jet wash the underside rather than keeping the body shiny, especially if your driving on salt laden roads. Defenders don't inherently rust any worse than other trucks but you must remove the caked on mud at all costs. That truck in your video really is a basket case!
The caked mud will act like a sponge and soaks salty water up
Yeap - rustproof them well and then an annual check £50 worth of DINITROL 1000 or the like squirted in the doors is a better investment than £2000 worth of replacement doors!
Are the Gwyn Lewis shields doing a good job? I put a galvanised Marsland chassis on ours seven years ago don't do much mud honestly, at the moment I'm treating it with Lanoguard yearly, I live near where they're based in Newhaven UK.
@@richardtedeschi9290 Check out their website. I did post a bit more detail but TH-cam appeared to remove it.
I remember this video and the classic raccoon whisperer video as well. I have given alot of thought to these pointers when I bought but some things I just had to live with. Fact is, alot of people with these dont want to sell now so alot of times just happy for an opportunity to buy.
Prices here are falling. Covid money has gone, shipping for parts is every expensive now. I can see it from my business.
Good repost, one of the first videos of yours I watched, and a comprehensive look at potential pain and penury.
I always wondered why the crap-trap, box section chassis was chosen and not C-section like trucks and (older) Unimogs...
One thing which no-one really mentions is how tiny a Landrover (older) really is. There's less room in the cab than a Ford Ka, so definitely get in one and have a drive before even contemplating buying one.
If you are the same size as those in the 1950's (5 foot nothing and 9 stone wringing wet) and you need to drive daily along narrow cart tracks - fine, that's who and what they were built for.
Anyone else has to contemplate if they really can stand long hours in a cramped cab without resorting to rear bulkhead remova,l and swapping the doors for Series ones (without door cards, or winders) just to grab a few extra inches back and sides - all the while peering out the top 3 inches of a narrow windscreen just barely cleared by the pair of Austin Morris wiper blades, as an archaic heater huffs at the condensation like your Grandad cleaning his spectacles.
On the other hand, I'm not going into the middle of nowhere in an electronic sofa, that takes 3 men with laptops to fix because an indicator bulb blew and several ECU's had a neurotic meltdown.
I'll take something I can keep running with a 40oz ball-pein hammer and a roll of baling twine thanks.
Old Landrovers - I hate the magnificent b*****ds.
Lol!
I've seen some that look almost mint on the outside but when you get looking inside and underneath it's swiss cheese
I read the news today, oh boy
Four thousand holes in Blackburn, Lancashire
And though the holes were rather small
They had to count them all
Now they know how many holes it takes to fill the Albert Hall
He got his monies worth of holes...
great video, king mike!
my guess is, that the image of land rover from the 60 and 70 was the problem. the unbreakable, the toughest go anyware you want, camel trophy, etc. ... that gave the impression, that this cars are so tough - you dont have to worry about rust problems, etc. ... until its to late and the brown disease is all over.
poor owner - i think some tough decisions have to be made with this car. . keep us posted which way it goes
This was from 5 years ago - never seen him since, still owes me $500
Parts car
That sucks! @@BritannicaRestorations
Getting used to it now...
A very good and informative insight video for those not familiar with the Land Rover. Great pointers on what to look for etc.
Thanks!
Was crawling under mine yesterday with a wax lance getting it rust proofed the best I could. What a sh-tty job and mess, one which I kept putting off but it's done now. Great video and advice for anyone looking to buy.
I think that is why folk do not bother with rust proofing - it is a shitty job! I know!
Thanks for the heads up.
Any time!
Would really be interesting to know what can one do to prevent rust other than underbody rust protection.
A regular wash would do no harm - these chassis are mud traps
I will be looking at a few Defenders soon with a view to buy. Cheers
Best of luck!
Most defenders are going to need a galvanised chassis , galvanised bulkhead and a set of Puma doors , and the rear tub mountings repaired, especially the “just re sprayed, new seats and tyres ones )
Don't forget the LED headlights!
Or galvanised doors. I've got a pair on mine, great bit of kit.
Very sad the way they rust in wet climates. Here in South Africa in Johannesburg rust is almost unheard of. My 69 2a chassis is rust free. I bought the last defender 90 in the country in 2016 as an investment and it lives undercover and has 1008km on it and is rust free. Any offers to buy?
Not from me, as it is Right-hand drive - not allowed in Quebec!
If I look to Brasil, or Argentina, or Chile, erverywhere very high prices. And to Import Parts today is a nightmare. Since Brexit not rentable to order by Paddock, Ashcroft or others. Because look what you get on Quality by Paddock, or Britparts. It is so poor.....
But where else can you get parts?
Thorough.
So what happened with this Landy? I bought our first Defender 90 300Tdi eight years ago... it looks really nice and still does, I know your first is your worst, I still have it and it is staying with me... rotten and bent chassis had to put in a new one, rotten footwells, apart from this the body is pretty good and underneath, the front doors are a bit dented but not rotten interestingly they have been filled with foam it seems to have done the job and a well done job, engine is fine, it is the rest which has been constant work and changing parts and maintenance which it seems wasn't done much the way I do it.
I have no idea what happened to it - probably in a garage or some poor soul is restoring it...
Thanks Mike, I read on one of your other comments the owner disappeared...@@BritannicaRestorations
Good 😊
Thank you! Cheers!
hello Mike, greetings from England, l/rover should be ashamed of themselves, back in the day i found the series 2 the best, had a lot stronger chassis, only when BL took over quality went down, i had the same problem when i had series 3 vehicles, leaks, rust, you name it, g/box problems
S3 were built during the steelworkers strike in the early 70's. BL were getting steel from Yugoslavia - pure crap
Mike! Is there anyway to fix the corrosion and worming on doors. If you sand to bear metal, prime and repaint would that not solve it? (Also once you prevent more water getting in and check for marks on inside of door
From experience - sadly no.
Like a cancer, you have to cut it all out, or it will spread.
Body filler is made from talc and resin -this is OK for a while, but it will absorb water from behind, then swell and erupt like was seen in the video.
Maybe - just maybe, once repaired (I use aluminium body filler as it does not swell but hard to sand) sometimes, you can slow the swelling down and then injecting a wax based rust proofing behind your work you can hold swelling back
I have used Liquid Metal tube mix and it works very well,
I wonder if they also exist without corrosion
No - it's a feature
LoL!
@@BritannicaRestorations have ordered mine with extra rust 😅
LoL!
take a look in countries without cold winters and far away from coasts - some countries in south america f.e.. but have someone take a look.
if the british are very "tolerant" with their evaluations, here they are the picassos offering their cars
Just a comment to help with the algor, what ever happened to Al Gor? Anyway, a comment to help the rhythms
Al Gore said the oceans were going to rise due to Co2 - and then 3 years later buys water front property - probably in hiding now...
Why concentrate on the rusty chassis and bodywork of a landrover rather than the nasty mechanicals, electricals and other components? After all think of the trouble free motoring and freetime ownership brings..... or is that Toyota im thinking of?
Mechanicals are easy fixes - wiring harnesses can be bought new at a reasonable cost - but body and chassis work is very expensive to fix - not unless you bodge it like this seller did and the pass it on…
I always say its not a broken engine or gearbox that kills cars its Rust once it starts its a never endig job to keep it at bay having said that with modern cars/trucks its not rust that kills them its bloody conputers.
I have seen stickers in South Africa that read “in the Night you hear Landcruisers rust “
Correct!
land rover owners are starting to think: what is this - free motoring or freetime ownership ... . why they want to take away the lovely smell of gearbox oil, the greasy hands and this lovely afternoons beneath the car ....
There great off road total crap design