bostonsirish1 Go fuck yourself you little goof. You think everyone is born a J man mechanic or does your little pee brain not understand every mechanic has to start somewhere?
Absolutely fantastic explanation of how to make something that can appear a bit daunting actually very simple. Brilliant. The 'dislikes' are obviously bell-ends....
10 videos to get to this one....TEN!!! this one taught me how to do it without a stupid rubber hose. squeeze 8 times, and hold...open the valve, let it fart until fluid only, wait 3 seconds. close. release. repeat until there are no more farts. jesus. that was easy. great job, revzilla, and thanks, youve saved me 85 dollar shop fee and got me riding. great company.
Just bled my front brake for first time after watching your excellent video. Worked great and brake is much firmer. And I felt competent to do it after watching. Thank you!!!!
After viewing many dangerously incorrect and incomplete videos on changing break fluid, this one is excellent and very nicely done..should be the first video that comes up when searching...nice job!
These videos are fantastic. Other videos make it look really finicky and daunting. You make it look so easy. I was almost going to take it to the mechanic to do, but now I'll definitely give it a go. Thank you!
Took my bike on a warm day to work. My brake pedal had no pressure. parked the bike and rode to work. When I got home searched and found yours and few other videos. Blead the old fluid that was orange in color and topped up with new clear DOT3 I had for my car. Will try it for a week and see how it is. if I am not satisfied. I will change it to DOT4. It took 30 min for me. May be I will do better on time going forward. Thanks Andrew
My man! You just saved hundreds of dollars by your video. Thank you so much for this. Your instructions were simple, easy, and to the point for me to understand. Muchas gracias.
Love your videos... Clear images...you explain not just what you are doing..but why! Very detailed and precise... all you tubers should be just like you!
Thanks for the leaving the cap on loose tip. I'm new to this and constantly getting fluid geysers when I pump the handle. My tank paint and I thank you!
These are amazingly good videos even for a guy like me who worked on his own vehicles all my li. Little tips, like lubing the back of the brake pad, are really useful and stuff I never thought of. Thanks Guys!
Seriously, can Lemmy just do How-to's for every product, vehicle, construction, mechanical, electrical etc etc? Like, if I needed to know how to install a furnace, can you do a How-to for it Lemmy haha? The way you explain everything is just plain remarkable! I'm looking at buying my very first motorcycle and I am just going through your how-to's for maintenance etc and they're great! Most work is very similar to working on cars/trucks; which is what I currently work on.
I love your maintenance videos. you cover everything with much detail. the step by step instructions help alot. especially for someone learning to do these jobs for the first time. thanks alot. :)
I feel so helpless. Brake is super sponge like now. Worse than when I started bleeding. I am using a really tight hose. I am only letting go of the brake lever once I close the valve down by the caliper. The brake lever is NOT getting any tighter. It's the same as when I started. 20 min each side. I feel the same sponginess. Brake can still be pulled right to the bar with ease
Great video, with all major points covered. However, I don't quite agree with the rapid pumping to build up pressure. If there's air in the system rapid pumping will have a tendency to 'multiply' the air bubbles, i.e. converting one big bubble into multiple smaller ones, thereby extending the bleeding process. We used to simply pump gently until there's pressure and then open the nipple to release the pressure. On older systems it's not a good idea to force the lever all the way back to the handle as the piston seals could then enter an area with corrosion in the bore, possibly damaging the seals and leading to leaks.
Fantastic video, Lemmy! This makes it clear how I need to approach a brake bleed on my 2013 Triumph Daytona 675R. My brakes feel terrible! Only trouble is that I don't have the plastic tubing and am not sure what size tubing I need. I guess the size of the nut to release the fluid from the bleed nipple will be a clue. Rock on. Update: I found that the 2013 Triumph 675R bleed nipple at the caliper has an 8mm nut. The nut at the brake fluid reservoir is 11mm. Is that normal? I was going to get a Motion Pro speed bleeder tool but those generally come in one size. I'm also interested in those quick bleed thingamabobs.
I'll throw in a couple tip from past experience. 1.Speed Bleeders are your friend(look them up) especially if you are flushing. 2. Most bikes don't have that bleeder up by the master cylinder. The handlebars and master cylinder should be set at an angle to get rid of the common air pocket that forms right at the banjo bolt connection to the master cylinder. Just take a look where the brake line comes into the MC, it should be obvious. Not doing step 2 can keep you from getting that near perfect front brake feel. Just do it. :)
This is great for when your brake hoses are all vertical the entire way between the caliper and the master cylinder. But if they go from caliper to caliper there is a high spot inthe line that can trap air. I would like to see some tricks on how to deal with that.
How good is this video? It's so well explained and the host is so good that I want to subscribe. And I don't even ride a motorcycle!! I was searching for help for my mountain bike brakes and this vid gave me some good starting points. Thanks !
in addition, it can help to hold a section of the tube up above the caliber so that the air only goes up instead of back into the system. they make magnetic bottles for the refill process too.
If you simply submerge the drain end of the bleeder tube in fluid, you will not draw air back into the system. You can just pump the brakes continually until all air stops. No need to loosen and retighten the bleeder screw. I use a 12 ounce plastic water bottle with a hole punched through the top. Put about an inch of fluid in the bottle and insert the tube through the hole until it bottoms out into the bottle. Pump away.
Thanks!!!, did my back brake for the first time too, was not sure how to do it but you got me on the right track!!! I have back brakes again!!!! feels real good!!! ... THANKS!!!!... cheers! ..
This video compelled me to subscribe to your channel. It was a lot more informative and demonstrative then another relative video that I watched from an undisclosed individual/company. Thanks, Beard God. 😏
It helps a bit more if that transparent hose was held above the height of the reservoir or even into the reservoir. This way, you can actually see the air bubble run up the tube and out maintaining a column of oil against the caliper cavity.
another step to add to the end of the process is to use a strap/ziptie to hold the lever in overnight. In the morning the lever feel will be even better as the pressure overnight will force any tiny air bubbles still trapped in the line up into the reservoir.
You mention at some point that if there is a dedicated bleed screw at the handlebar reservoir that one should bleed at that screw last. My BMW G650GS Sertao (ABS) has such a bleed screw at the reservoir and the manual says to bleed it FIRST, not last. Could you elaborate more on that screw and its actual function and why you say it should be bled last? I am puzzled and can't find anything on this type of bleed screw online. Million thanks and cheers from Hanoi. Great video, as always!
Here's what Lemmy has to say: "The screw probably drives out a lot of air initially due to how it's set up. Follow the manual. Ultimately, the order doesn't matter; the absence of air in the system does. Doing it by the book only goes so far, then there are all sorts of shop tricks to get stubborn air out of a brake system." Hope this helps! -DrewZilla
Hi guys, great vidoes it really helps. Can I let the brake fluid fully drain first before I put in the new fluid? I dont know when the last owner changed it. Thank you :D
That had to be the BEST directions/editorial video-EVER ON TH-cam !!!Awesome job, brother!!! doing my 2005 fatboy, tomorrow!! The only problem I have, is I need 2 people, I have 18" ape hangers...and I'm in a fight with my old man!!! Great speaker you are brother-should be a teachers tech for ALL HD dealers!!! peace!
Or there is another scenario...... We just like your videos and we need to learn some things... 😁😁...... You are awesome.... Your maintenance videos saved many times....
What a great video thanks!!!! Subscribed. Two questions: 1) when would you bleed the master cylinder for normal maintenance? Or is it just if you are replacing that part. 2) for modern bikes where there is integrated braking for front and rear is the process using front brake for entire process? Thanks!!!!
What you fail to show, and to mention is that for the left side and the back (assuming that you have rear discs) is that it is nigh on impossible to do it by yourself unless of course you have 5 ft long arms. So when you get ready to do your brakes, get a buddy to pump up and hold the lever for the right side front and the rear bleeding operation.
I watched a different video on bleeding brakes right after line change where no fluid was in lines. Guy in video started by having bleeder open and pumping lever till fluid started to come out then went to having bleeder closed then pumping holding and opening to get rid of air. He stated this helped get fluid into dry system. Is this correct?
Hi Lemmy. Do you ever use any of those pressure or vacuum bleeders that are used on cars? I think the rear brake will be a bit more difficult by yourself. Love all your videos BTW
Does the same Hold true for Harley’s with ABS? There is a lot of conflicting information and “needing” to take the bike to the dealer to have them do it. I’m just looking to flush the system to replace the fluid.
@ZLA Lemmy looks like he was born on a Harley, in a Harley shop, WORKING on a Harley! Beer! Should be BEER scale of difficulty! ;) You guys totally rock, thanks for ALL the great info!!! Love your buyer's guides!!!
I am new to working on bikes, and I have an 81 Goldwing 1100i I have almost fully restored...but the brakes now are all rebuilt and on the bike, but I cannot seem to get pressure after bleeding several times with a pressure bleeder. I got new caliper pistons, the rubbers, and clips. The fronts flow fluid during bleeding, but no pressure. The backs, no fluid comes out (seems there is a block somewhere) no matter how much I try. Any thoughts for a noob who lives next to a Harley shop, but they won't work on his Goldwing?
I've always wondered if its possible to do a one man brake bleeder on a motorcycle with a water bottle like the way I've been doing it on cars by just only connecting hose and pressing lever.
Hasn't anyone heard of a One-Way bleeder valve? You can buy one at any auto supply store. It's cheap and it only allows fluid to come out without allowing air to be sucked into the system. Makes bleeding brakes a breeze.
Good tutorial but I'm a bit confused now..... In my service manual they say this: 1. Open the bleed valve [A]. 2. Apply the brake and hold it [B]. 3. Close the bleed valve [C]. 4. Release the brake [D]. So what is it? Or could you do both? I got a 05 ZX6R.
You can do it A-B-C-D or B-A-C-D. Applying the brake first builds pressure in the line. Just remember not to let the reservoir empty completely. -DrewZilla
Have a 90's BMW tourer with good ol' ABS. That's going to be a 3 on the beard scale to bleed that. Took me 3 hours to get squishy-but-rideable brakes so I could take that damn thing to a mechanic. That was the first time I tried bleeding those brakes, since then I've read up on the topic and can do it no problem.
Thanks alot! Being new to riding, idiot me didn't know you're not supposed to take the caliber apart when changing the brake pads. Now I'm gonna have to bleed the system because of that stupid mistake. This helps though, thanks Lemmy!
hewy guys quick question, so i bought a 2017 ninja 300, brand new, after 6k miles decided not to drive it anymore, everything was working fine, i decided to test drive it the other day and front brakes won't break at all. at all. front pads are still 70% not even 50. replaced the brake fluid, bleed the system and it still won't work... is really soft when i press the pedal, back brakes are still working
Hi Lemmy! Thanks for the video it’s super helpful. Just a quick question, is it completely necessary to bleed the ABS module, otherwise I’ll have to take it to a dealer so they can use their fancy tool to bleed it. Cheers man!
I've put a brembo RCS 19 on my KTM RC 390. On aggressive braking...I feel the lever move out. Once cold it's back to the same position. I tried re bleeding the brakes. And changing the fluid too. No bubbles in the system. Any idea why my lever is moving out ? Also using steel braided steel lines and sintered pads by brembo.
Hey there. I was following your directions but I when I opened the screw at the brake caliper I kept on pumping the lever. Now it won't brake, how would I go about fixing that.
I’ve changed my caliper all together and I’m bleeding the whole system, seems like it’s taking forever, no signs of leakage I still feel like I’m doing something wrong ?
I have attempted to bleed my front single caliper brake as per your instructions, but am not developing any pressure in the lever. Background: I drove my bike home and put it in the garage, a week later, no front brake pressure. -I decided to bleed the brakes and flushed the entire system with new fluid until no air appeared in the bleeder line. -But, after hundreds of pumps and dozens opening of bleeder valve, no pressure in handle. -I have tilted the bike to the extreme, thinking air was up near where the line meets the master cylinder. -I have stored the bike for days with the brake handle ziptied and engaged. -I have checked entire line and caliper area for leaks and found none. Do you have any idea what I'm missing or might be the problem?
You may need to replace the crush washers then try again. For troubleshooting past that, you might want to consult a dealer or qualified mechanic who can look at the bike in person. -DrewZilla
what if I want to replace the whole fluid?? I put dot3 in it by mistake I have dot4 which is the one I should put in... should I do same process regardless? mixing both fluids wont do any problems within it?
2018: Thanks! My R1 also says it too lol Edit 2022: My R6 still has spongy levers. I spilled brake fluid on the driveway. Good times lol 😂 Guessed at a 1/4 hose but will go tighter next time, using zip ties atm.
What diameter hose are you using for this?
3/16" should be about right. -DrewZilla
PsychedelicMike2006 you FOOL
PsychedelicMike2006 if you are still alive please DO NOT work on a bike if you own one!!!!
bostonsirish1 why? Seems like a decent question to me.
bostonsirish1 Go fuck yourself you little goof. You think everyone is born a J man mechanic or does your little pee brain not understand every mechanic has to start somewhere?
Absolutely fantastic explanation of how to make something that can appear a bit daunting actually very simple. Brilliant. The 'dislikes' are obviously bell-ends....
10 videos to get to this one....TEN!!! this one taught me how to do it without a stupid rubber hose. squeeze 8 times, and hold...open the valve, let it fart until fluid only, wait 3 seconds. close. release. repeat until there are no more farts. jesus. that was easy. great job, revzilla, and thanks, youve saved me 85 dollar shop fee and got me riding. great company.
I'm betting if you did it that way you have air still in your lines.
Just bled my front brake for first time after watching your excellent video. Worked great and brake is much firmer. And I felt competent to do it after watching. Thank you!!!!
After viewing many dangerously incorrect and incomplete videos on changing break fluid, this one is excellent and very nicely done..should be the first video that comes up when searching...nice job!
I used to have a weird feel on my front brakes. After bleeding them, the feel is back to normal. Thanks revzilla!
I know a guy who's addicted to brake fluid. He says he can stop any time.
Others might draw the line with that one, but I'll cut you a _brake_, and give you a _pad_ on the back! -DrewZilla
+RevZilla This made my life. Subscribed. Also appreciate the very detailed steps to maintain a motorcycle!
Nice one. Also subscribed.
huntsville90 👍👍👍haha
Gimme a brake!
I watched several videos breeding brakes on the youtube. This is by far the best one. Lemmy does a great job explaining!
Out of all the brake bleeding vids I’ve seen so far I’d say this one is more detailed & best for any newbies looking to bleed.
These videos are fantastic. Other videos make it look really finicky and daunting. You make it look so easy. I was almost going to take it to the mechanic to do, but now I'll definitely give it a go. Thank you!
The Best Explanation on TH-cam. Rock on Revzilla
Took my bike on a warm day to work. My brake pedal had no pressure. parked the bike and rode to work. When I got home searched and found yours and few other videos. Blead the old fluid that was orange in color and topped up with new clear DOT3 I had for my car. Will try it for a week and see how it is. if I am not satisfied. I will change it to DOT4. It took 30 min for me. May be I will do better on time going forward.
Thanks
Andrew
It's Lemmy!!! The coolest dude on RevZ xD
***** :D
Lemmy ROCKS! Very articulate and knowledgable. Thank you Revzilla for being so helpful and posting these videos!
This video is so easy and clear, some videos on TH-cam shows this procedure extremely complicated.
My man! You just saved hundreds of dollars by your video. Thank you so much for this. Your instructions were simple, easy, and to the point for me to understand. Muchas gracias.
I always wanted to do this and I didn't know how. Now I'm an expert. Thank you Lemy
As always, the go too guy for bike diy, Clear and easy instruction, Much appreciated Lemy. Thank you.
Love your videos... Clear images...you explain not just what you are doing..but why! Very detailed and precise... all you tubers should be just like you!
Thank you for posting this. I think this may be the only brake bleeding vid that isn't using a specialized product. Nice job. We are going riding.
Best video I’ve found so far gonna do it myself. I went to a shop and they wanted $220 just to bleed the front brakes.
EXCELLENT EXPLANATION! I've watched several of these brake bleeding videos on You Tube, but this one is the best by far.
I've spent the last two days trying to bleed my front brake on a dirt bike, driving me NUTS. This video was the absolute solution, awesome and thanks!
Thanks for the leaving the cap on loose tip. I'm new to this and constantly getting fluid geysers when I pump the handle. My tank paint and I thank you!
These are amazingly good videos even for a guy like me who worked on his own vehicles all my li. Little tips, like lubing the back of the brake pad, are really useful and stuff I never thought of. Thanks Guys!
Seriously, can Lemmy just do How-to's for every product, vehicle, construction, mechanical, electrical etc etc? Like, if I needed to know how to install a furnace, can you do a How-to for it Lemmy haha? The way you explain everything is just plain remarkable! I'm looking at buying my very first motorcycle and I am just going through your how-to's for maintenance etc and they're great! Most work is very similar to working on cars/trucks; which is what I currently work on.
I love your maintenance videos. you cover everything with much detail. the step by step instructions help alot. especially for someone learning to do these jobs for the first time.
thanks alot. :)
One of the best explanation videos on youtube.
I feel so helpless. Brake is super sponge like now. Worse than when I started bleeding. I am using a really tight hose. I am only letting go of the brake lever once I close the valve down by the caliper. The brake lever is NOT getting any tighter. It's the same as when I started. 20 min each side. I feel the same sponginess. Brake can still be pulled right to the bar with ease
Great video, with all major points covered. However, I don't quite agree with the rapid pumping to build up pressure. If there's air in the system rapid pumping will have a tendency to 'multiply' the air bubbles, i.e. converting one big bubble into multiple smaller ones, thereby extending the bleeding process. We used to simply pump gently until there's pressure and then open the nipple to release the pressure. On older systems it's not a good idea to force the lever all the way back to the handle as the piston seals could then enter an area with corrosion in the bore, possibly damaging the seals and leading to leaks.
Thanks RevZilla, Sure beats having to drag out the Mighty Vac. Sure is a great tool to have when you need it. Thanks for taking your time as always.
Great video...perfect for the mechanically inept like myself! You have given my the confidence to take a stab at doing it on my bike. Thanks.
3/4 of this is rambling so if you want to see what you actually clicked on the video for, skip over to about 3/4 of the way through the video.
Fantastic video, Lemmy! This makes it clear how I need to approach a brake bleed on my 2013 Triumph Daytona 675R. My brakes feel terrible! Only trouble is that I don't have the plastic tubing and am not sure what size tubing I need. I guess the size of the nut to release the fluid from the bleed nipple will be a clue. Rock on.
Update: I found that the 2013 Triumph 675R bleed nipple at the caliper has an 8mm nut. The nut at the brake fluid reservoir is 11mm. Is that normal? I was going to get a Motion Pro speed bleeder tool but those generally come in one size. I'm also interested in those quick bleed thingamabobs.
It's normal...for your bike. -DrewZilla
I'll throw in a couple tip from past experience. 1.Speed Bleeders are your friend(look them up) especially if you are flushing. 2. Most bikes don't have that bleeder up by the master cylinder. The handlebars and master cylinder should be set at an angle to get rid of the common air pocket that forms right at the banjo bolt connection to the master cylinder. Just take a look where the brake line comes into the MC, it should be obvious. Not doing step 2 can keep you from getting that near perfect front brake feel. Just do it. :)
This is a really clear, helpful video. And Lemmy, your presentation skills are great.
This is great for when your brake hoses are all vertical the entire way between the caliper and the master cylinder. But if they go from caliper to caliper there is a high spot inthe line that can trap air. I would like to see some tricks on how to deal with that.
Super job Lemmy. very straight forward and to the point. You guys are the best.
I subscribed after 15 seconds into the video. Very good stuff and well explained!
How good is this video? It's so well explained and the host is so good that I want to subscribe. And I don't even ride a motorcycle!!
I was searching for help for my mountain bike brakes and this vid gave me some good starting points. Thanks !
Thanks! For MTB maintenance, check out Park Tool's channel. -DrewZilla
in addition, it can help to hold a section of the tube up above the caliber so that the air only goes up instead of back into the system. they make magnetic bottles for the refill process too.
If you simply submerge the drain end of the bleeder tube in fluid, you will not draw air back into the system. You can just pump the brakes continually until all air stops. No need to loosen and retighten the bleeder screw. I use a 12 ounce plastic water bottle with a hole punched through the top. Put about an inch of fluid in the bottle and insert the tube through the hole until it bottoms out into the bottle. Pump away.
Lemmy, thanks for the comprehensive video. Very helpful.
You're the best man, you did a good job explaining. I should have no problem doing this myself after watching your vid.
Thanks!!!, did my back brake for the first time too, was not sure how to do it but you got me on the right track!!! I have back brakes again!!!! feels real good!!! ... THANKS!!!!... cheers! ..
Great timing - just changed front brake line and got your video on how to bleed line same day - thanks
This video compelled me to subscribe to your channel. It was a lot more informative and demonstrative then another relative video that I watched from an undisclosed individual/company.
Thanks, Beard God. 😏
I watched a few videos and this is the only one that assured me I can do this myself. What I do the same thing for my hydraulic clutch?
Yes, bleeding the line for a hydraulic clutch is the same. -DrewZilla
dang how come this channel does not have soo many views they have pretty good videos.
perfect content explained perfectly as always. you guys are from different world. Love you Lemmy.
It helps a bit more if that transparent hose was held above the height of the reservoir or even into the reservoir. This way, you can actually see the air bubble run up the tube and out maintaining a column of oil against the caliper cavity.
Excellent how-to. Lemmy is the man!
another step to add to the end of the process is to use a strap/ziptie to hold the lever in overnight. In the morning the lever feel will be even better as the pressure overnight will force any tiny air bubbles still trapped in the line up into the reservoir.
Awesome tutorial. I've got a lot to learn on maintenance still and I'm on my own, so this helps a TON. Thanks Lemmy and Revzilla.
This helped so much thanks Lemmy just bled my front and rear on my drz400sm
You mention at some point that if there is a dedicated bleed screw at the handlebar reservoir that one should bleed at that screw last. My BMW G650GS Sertao (ABS) has such a bleed screw at the reservoir and the manual says to bleed it FIRST, not last. Could you elaborate more on that screw and its actual function and why you say it should be bled last? I am puzzled and can't find anything on this type of bleed screw online. Million thanks and cheers from Hanoi. Great video, as always!
Here's what Lemmy has to say: "The screw probably drives out a lot of air initially due to how it's set up. Follow the manual. Ultimately, the order doesn't matter; the absence of air in the system does. Doing it by the book only goes so far, then there are all sorts of shop tricks to get stubborn air out of a brake system." Hope this helps! -DrewZilla
Thanks Lemmy, good tutorial. Will do my front brake tomorrow.
Hi guys, great vidoes it really helps. Can I let the brake fluid fully drain first before I put in the new fluid? I dont know when the last owner changed it. Thank you :D
That had to be the BEST directions/editorial video-EVER ON TH-cam !!!Awesome job, brother!!! doing my 2005 fatboy, tomorrow!! The only problem I have, is I need 2 people, I have 18" ape hangers...and I'm in a fight with my old man!!! Great speaker you are brother-should be a teachers tech for ALL HD dealers!!! peace!
Or there is another scenario...... We just like your videos and we need to learn some things... 😁😁...... You are awesome.... Your maintenance videos saved many times....
What a great video thanks!!!! Subscribed. Two questions: 1) when would you bleed the master cylinder for normal maintenance? Or is it just if you are replacing that part. 2) for modern bikes where there is integrated braking for front and rear is the process using front brake for entire process? Thanks!!!!
Once again, Lemmy RULES!
What you fail to show, and to mention is that for the left side and the back (assuming that you have rear discs) is that it is nigh on impossible to do it by yourself unless of course you have 5 ft long arms. So when you get ready to do your brakes, get a buddy to pump up and hold the lever for the right side front and the rear bleeding operation.
1978 Triumph Bonneville rear brake bleed on bottom mounted caliper. Truly entering the seventh circle of hell. Ever done one?
Great video. Thank you. Is this ABS? Is ABS process any different?
I never realised it was that easy! Thanks!
Thanks for another great tutorial! It's very easy to follow.
Lemmy is my hero.
Thanks for the well presented video Lemmy, very clear and informative! I'm off to bleed my brakes now.
I have a 2014 zx6r and my service manual says to bleed the top bleed valve (the one one master cylinder) first.
I watched a different video on bleeding brakes right after line change where no fluid was in lines. Guy in video started by having bleeder open and pumping lever till fluid started to come out then went to having bleeder closed then pumping holding and opening to get rid of air. He stated this helped get fluid into dry system. Is this correct?
Hi Lemmy. Do you ever use any of those pressure or vacuum bleeders that are used on cars? I think the rear brake will be a bit more difficult by yourself. Love all your videos BTW
Great video Lemmy I like to use a vacuum pump when I do it.
The vacuum is really not necessary and just increases complexity of a simple task which increases the chance of introducing air.
Does the same Hold true for Harley’s with ABS? There is a lot of conflicting information and “needing” to take the bike to the dealer to have them do it. I’m just looking to flush the system to replace the fluid.
I’m sure you just saved me a lot of $$$ now time to get to work... thanks a lot!!
Is the brake bleeding process still the same for motorcycles with ABS?
@ZLA Lemmy looks like he was born on a Harley, in a Harley shop, WORKING on a Harley! Beer! Should be BEER scale of difficulty! ;) You guys totally rock, thanks for ALL the great info!!! Love your buyer's guides!!!
I am new to working on bikes, and I have an 81 Goldwing 1100i I have almost fully restored...but the brakes now are all rebuilt and on the bike, but I cannot seem to get pressure after bleeding several times with a pressure bleeder. I got new caliper pistons, the rubbers, and clips. The fronts flow fluid during bleeding, but no pressure. The backs, no fluid comes out (seems there is a block somewhere) no matter how much I try. Any thoughts for a noob who lives next to a Harley shop, but they won't work on his Goldwing?
I've always wondered if its possible to do a one man brake bleeder on a motorcycle with a water bottle like the way I've been doing it on cars by just only connecting hose and pressing lever.
if the boling temperature is lowr, cant you boil the fluid to get rid of the water?
Hey guys, loving all your videos, keep up the great work!
Hasn't anyone heard of a One-Way bleeder valve? You can buy one at any auto supply store. It's cheap and it only allows fluid to come out without allowing air to be sucked into the system. Makes bleeding brakes a breeze.
Thank you Lemy! Will perform this on my motorcycle tomorrow!
Lemmy, very professional fluid presentation ;-)
Good tutorial but I'm a bit confused now..... In my service manual they say this:
1. Open the bleed valve [A].
2. Apply the brake and hold it [B].
3. Close the bleed valve [C].
4. Release the brake [D].
So what is it? Or could you do both? I got a 05 ZX6R.
You can do it A-B-C-D or B-A-C-D. Applying the brake first builds pressure in the line. Just remember not to let the reservoir empty completely. -DrewZilla
Have a 90's BMW tourer with good ol' ABS. That's going to be a 3 on the beard scale to bleed that. Took me 3 hours to get squishy-but-rideable brakes so I could take that damn thing to a mechanic.
That was the first time I tried bleeding those brakes, since then I've read up on the topic and can do it no problem.
Thanks alot! Being new to riding, idiot me didn't know you're not supposed to take the caliber apart when changing the brake pads. Now I'm gonna have to bleed the system because of that stupid mistake. This helps though, thanks Lemmy!
Best video ever love this man he’s such a good vibe !!!
I love bike maintenance vids. Well done!
hewy guys quick question, so i bought a 2017 ninja 300, brand new, after 6k miles decided not to drive it anymore, everything was working fine, i decided to test drive it the other day and front brakes won't break at all. at all. front pads are still 70% not even 50. replaced the brake fluid, bleed the system and it still won't work... is really soft when i press the pedal, back brakes are still working
Hi Lemmy! Thanks for the video it’s super helpful. Just a quick question, is it completely necessary to bleed the ABS module, otherwise I’ll have to take it to a dealer so they can use their fancy tool to bleed it. Cheers man!
It really depends. Some bikes are ok, others need to go to the dealer. Check the forums for your specific bike. -DrewZilla
I've put a brembo RCS 19 on my KTM RC 390. On aggressive braking...I feel the lever move out. Once cold it's back to the same position. I tried re bleeding the brakes. And changing the fluid too. No bubbles in the system. Any idea why my lever is moving out ? Also using steel braided steel lines and sintered pads by brembo.
Can you mix break fluid if it's the same DOT?
Hey there. I was following your directions but I when I opened the screw at the brake caliper I kept on pumping the lever. Now it won't brake, how would I go about fixing that.
I’ve changed my caliper all together and I’m bleeding the whole system, seems like it’s taking forever, no signs of leakage I still feel like I’m doing something wrong ?
I have attempted to bleed my front single caliper brake as per your instructions, but am not developing any pressure in the lever. Background: I drove my bike home and put it in the garage, a week later, no front brake pressure.
-I decided to bleed the brakes and flushed the entire system with new fluid until no air appeared in the bleeder line.
-But, after hundreds of pumps and dozens opening of bleeder valve, no pressure in handle.
-I have tilted the bike to the extreme, thinking air was up near where the line meets the master cylinder.
-I have stored the bike for days with the brake handle ziptied and engaged.
-I have checked entire line and caliper area for leaks and found none.
Do you have any idea what I'm missing or might be the problem?
You may need to replace the crush washers then try again. For troubleshooting past that, you might want to consult a dealer or qualified mechanic who can look at the bike in person. -DrewZilla
what if I want to replace the whole fluid?? I put dot3 in it by mistake I have dot4 which is the one I should put in... should I do same process regardless? mixing both fluids wont do any problems within it?
2018: Thanks! My R1 also says it too lol
Edit 2022: My R6 still has spongy levers. I spilled brake fluid on the driveway. Good times lol 😂 Guessed at a 1/4 hose but will go tighter next time, using zip ties atm.
Help!!!! I used gatorade for the fluid and now my brakes aren't responsive. Any fluid works right? Please help, i'm new to motorcycles. Thank you!!
Lemme, 3 letters, ABS. Got a 09cbr1000 abs, and the brakes feel is crappie. I've bled brakes before but never abs systems. Any advice