Hey Doug! I got a video idea for you. How to do a totally comprehensive health check on the 4.0. Everything from compression, fuel pressure, injector performance, oil pressure, leak down, engine critical vacuum systems etc. I'm sure there's stuff I missed. Would be great to just have a good baseline reference to compare to. My buddy just managed to find a non running '92 wrangler for $500 that only needed ECU "brain surgery" and fired right up. Knowing how to check the health of the motor and to check that it's running right would be nice to see what next steps are needed to make it a reliable daily.
This would be incredible, especially for those of us with RENIX Jeeps. There's so little good information out there, and what good information there is seems spread across the internet. A good clear video saying this sensor = these problems, and this sensor = these problems would be SO helpful!
Hey Doug! Being from the 2.5 clan in my MJ, here's what I can tell. The 2.5 is actually really reliable and doesn't have that much sensor problems. However, its problem is popularity and rarety. Many sensors are on close-out deals even on Rockauto, especially the manual TPS sensors. Water temp and oil pressure sensors from vehicles with full deluxe cluster are worth something, ECU's are important for 2.5s, since they're rare, and has been many versions from year to year. A good functioning idle stepper motor is worth gold. And finally, air temperature sensor; IIRC, you can't get them anymore, so I converted to and AC Delco unit. It's like 1 or 2 degrees F off from the original, but works great, and I only had to change connector styles.
I’m having a problem with my 1994 Cherokee Sport it started running rough idle was going up and down so I changed the entire throttle body I have a parts truck ,I also changed the injectors and the O2 sensor and also the spark plugs and they were black the new ones and black smoke was coming out of the tail pipe and it’s gotten worse now it’s hard to start and won’t even run while idling and this truck has always ran perfect do you have any suggestions on what I should do or have any ideas on what could possibly be wrong
I love seeing videos like this. I've had a jeep for 7 years now. Been through the mountains and plenty of trails it shouldn't have been. It's been eating nitrous for over 2 years. Went to the drag strip every Thursday for almost a year straight. Put a 4.0 header on and the rest of the exhaust is 3inch stainless with a 5 inch square pipe on the end off of a late model dirt track car. Limited slip in the rear. No sway bars. All I've replaced is water pump and radiator. Never even taken the valve cover off. Yall must be doing something wrong with yours to have all these problems. Maybe you should stop caring and just drive it. The more you care the more stuff seems to break.
Two points: (1) The TPS can start going bad, but not bad enough to set a code in the ECU, making it difficult to diagnose. One symptom of this is the torque converter occasionally coming out of lockup on the highway. Sister thought that the engine was "missing" (like a cylinder occasionally misfiring), but the RPM was actually blipping up slightly each time it happened. Torque converter coming out of lockup. Replaced TPS, problem went away. (2) A sensor I would add is the transmission Output Speed Sensor (42RE, obviously). It's very easy to replace, and in fact can be done trans-fluid-leak-free if the vehicle is on somewhat of a downhill slope (facing downhill). When the sensor goes bad, the transmission will not shift out of first gear. So now you're not technically stuck on the side of the road, but being stuck in first could have you running out of gas before you get home or to a gas station. Had that happen to my sister, also.
Excellent video. Had the crank position sensor, throttle position sensor, rear main seal, water pump, power steering pump, window regulators, and axle seals immediately go bad on a "new" WJ with 160k miles. Replaced every fluid, wear component, and sensor. I keep spare parts, fluids, and equipment strapped over the rear axle behind the seat. The excess weight does have an impact going uphill, but it also improves traction in winter and reduces bodyroll. Can't always count on having cell reception and unscheduled hikes are inconvenient.
What an amazing video, brother -- thank you! I've got a 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport and all I find myself wishing after watching this video is that you were my neighborhood go-to mechanic.
Where you dropped the TPS screws is home for spare CPS, oil sensor, cam sensor,cap and rotor(XJ). In the WJ it’s home for spare ECM that has been programmed. This is a super video!
Sure enough, I have those kinds of spares, but they are all new parts for my now 20 year old Jeep Grand Cherokee! Though my Grand Cherokee give me grief at times, but I still love it and I know that these parts won't be around forever, I have already have felt this necessity in especially when I fully intend to do partial restorations across the board! And so when I saw this video title and thumbnail, I also too felt that I this was a must see! Since I've seen other videos dating back about 4-6 months ago on this channel, I know that everything for the Jeep enthusiast and/or professionals repair guide is all relevant no matter what and I can appreciate D&E in the Garage and the direction that the channel is going. At this point, I am an avid follower but not exactly a full time follower but i suppose that things will change in time. Some channels tend to go archaic or caveman style while turning wrenches and this would be be a turn-off for some of those viewers, but could be entertaining for some viewers! Yet for those of us that has been trained to do things the right way and to be absolutely thorough in all that we do. Example: I know of one channel that is nearly out to abuse and destroy their tools like no other and that does not suit me well at all! Tools are for to make a solid living and NOT to have to replace them every time they turn around! Those kinds of individuals that abuse and destroy tools need to be slapped up besides the noggin with a pork chop, for sure! Still, I do feel that D&E is a good channel and I just know that I can rely on some good content when I comes right down to some of those brass tacks! D&E is about one of 4 channels that I know of that can accommodate folks in a grand manner, which could be refined just a little bit going forward and I believe that every bit of their knowledge can be a big benefit to virtually any Jeep owner and it is with the building of a great community for TH-cam is where it is at. Thank-You D&E for sharing and I appreciate all that you do and with that said, here comes my subscription, coming back right back at yah's!! D&E was actually one of the first Jeep related channels that I had started getting the sometimes obscure information that I was sorely needing since I took ownership of my 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee and so in particular, my Jeep at times has caused me some real @$$ pains from the git go! Mine is so equipped with the 4.7 Liter that has the rich and raw horsepower that some people long for but they aren't necessarily long lasting.
Once again, you have nailed it. Extremely accurate on the TPS and the oil sending unit sensors. Drove through flooded street in the morning and by the afternoon I did not have first gear. Had to roll out of the parking lot is second gear. Made it home just fine TPS dried out overnight and in the morning. It was good as new, or as I should say good as used. One day when we get old Doug, you and I are going to sit on the porch have a couple cold ones, and complain about how these TPS sensors in these new flying cars are so much harder to replace than these WJ’s.
My 2000 XJ is starting to act like the transmission is going. It was rebuilt about 15 months ago. They said it wouldn’t last because I have a 32” tire with 3:55 gears. I’ll try the TPS sensor first. Also losing coolant with no explanation of where it’s going. Great video
Replace your radiator cap first and see if you coolant leak goes away... otherwise check your head for cracks. I have 2 2000 xjs, one has already had the dreaded cracked 331 head. The other had a mystery leak, and it turned out being a radiator bad cap.
As a 96 ZJ owner myself: suggest you get 98 ZJ sensors for the throttle body! The only difference is the connectors. They are way more secure. Yes you will need to cut and butt connect/crimp with heat shrink. The IAC valve will no longer have that 90 deg turn. As good as this video is: don’t blame it all on the sensor…. brittle wire at t the connector and basic connectors on the 96 that Jeep upgraded just two years later. Good luck!
Thanks bro, finding out the throttle control sensor was messing with the transmission shifting. Ran to the parts store, fixed my issue I’ve been having for months. 🎉
I have so many spare parts in my 99 Cherokee 4.0, the local parts stores call me to see if I have any extras. Now I'm stuck trying to find the cause of my #4 misfire. Something keeps frying that plug. No coolant leaks. 184k miles on it.
Great video. I just had to clean the IAC sensor in my XJ. It's running now, but since my XJ takes me to the middle of Nowhere, NV occasionally, I think having spare sensors on hand is probably a good idea. Thanks!
Ha, ha, my 2007 VW Golf with over 200K miles never had any sensor issues, basically they are resistive or Hall sensors....I have a '93 Wrangler that I intend to restore though and this video is really useful. Will collect all the sensors... Let other people drive the electric cars, we keep what we have...:)
The cam synchronizer is the part that goes into the oil pump and needs to be timed. The sensor is the plastic part on top that you have to remove to time the synchronizer. As long as you don't turn the engine over it's easy to replace.
Awesome video as always. Nice Hoody but isn't the firing order of the Jeep 4.0 153624? Your shirt has the last 2 digits reversed unless I'm unaware of something...
Regarding the oil and water temperature sensors/sending units... Make you match up to what you have in your own Jeep: gauges or "idiot" lights. The sending units are different for each case.
I used to be a junk yard hound but not so much anymore, although I just wish that the junkyard that I would frequent used to have a shuttle bus to get you down deep into the mix but I just don't think that they still have this service anymore..
In 2004 WJs got a proper fan relay in the fuse block. Prior years had the TERRIBLE fan relay under the passenger headlight that required you to keep the motor on suicide watch.
Any tips for getting stubborn sensors off in the yard? Cause hitting them with PB blaster and coming back the next day doesn’t always work at yards that just Willy nilly crush vehicles for no reason and no warning…
Kinda funny i took my xj to the dealership to fix the tps issues, and 3k later still have the same issue. A $15 switch solved the whole issue for the tps and no one has posted it on any forum. The brake light switch has a tiny amount of play can cause all these issues.
Just literally 20 minutes/8 beers ago swapped the TPS from my 99 parts WJ into my 01 daily WJ and hopefully solved something I've been fighting for a week. Deep water on the road home and a coil strip and plugs later, I'm 160$ in and hopefully fixed. I'm on my 3rd WJ and it still still boggles me I can ford downstream with water over the headlights but a puddle takes me out for a week. 25 miles away from 200K.
I have an odd one... getting high voltage (even with the ignition off) across the signal wire of the TPS. I trace the wires and it seems like oil is flowing through the wire casing? Maybe from pcv valve failure or something? Going to end up scrapping this 4.0 unless You want to buy it. In Washington. Ran good and still runs but has oil in the wires now and I am having issues finding the short.
9:00 Its held on with 5.5mm, I was at the junkyard today and pulled one. Bring your complete husky socket go box. Asked about those throttle body sensors 8$ each... Meh. Got a bunch more fuses today free
Got every sensor and big brick fuse all in a tool box. No one understands why I’ve carried them all around but they were basically free. Oh and a starter in there too just in case !
Hello, very good day, I have a 2.5L and I am wondering if it shares a cylinder head with the 5.2 or the 5.9, I don't know if my lazy 2.5L could be updated, I am also intrigued if there is any camshaft update for he . greeting !!! thanks for the information
Highly recommend using Mopar sensors if available and not knock off cheap ones. It's bit me in the axx to many times. I tried going cheap but my WJ didn't like it.
I had a map sensor split in half on my WJ, like to drove me insane trying to figure out what the problem was. went to a pick and pull a few dollars later was back in business.
I'll tell you something: the TP sensor works with the signal from the clock spring that goes to the steering wheel. When that gets damaged, the airbag light comes on and the truck starts to fail.
I removed the temperature sensor that turns the fan on. Mine failed and cause my radiator to burst in my 02 WJ. I replaced with an older model manual fan ,after buying a new radiator,$$
grabbing an extra ECU would not be a bad idea, generally the only thing that goes wrong with them are the three electrolytic caps, but if they happen to fail while on a trip, you are calling a tow truck. I keep a spare for my 2.5 Wrangler in my spare parts bag.
Crank sensor is not easy on a 2003 Grand Cherokee. Mine swelled and was completely stuck and would not move. I could not get it out even after making the access hole bigger and it was starting to distort and about to break. I used a few drops of lye at a time to dissolve the bell housing. Aluminum is attacked by acids and bases while steel is only affected by acid. Took 3 days but I got it out, lather rinse repeat. The reason I am watching this is because last night the packrats ate the wire on the new one and I could not remember how the dash came apart.
Atleast on XJs the cam sensor is only used to determine where the engine is on startup. If you unplug it the engine wont start but if you start the engine and unplug it while the engines running the engine will stay running like normal but it will throw a CEL.
So we have a 2000 jeep cherokee classic 2wd, 132k miles, wiring harness looks like a rat nest and has been chopped on, I've spent days goin through the harness to re hooked all cut wires, replaced fuel pump crank sensor tried new map sensor, the and relay started buzzing on me so we purchased a new one and does the same thing, and now the fuel pump stays running when Key is turned on, we tried a junk yard ecu the fuel pump primed and turned off as it should, but still will not start
I have a 95 zj 4.0 and sometimes the car shakes crazy on acceleration/misfiring (no fault codes except lambda sensor). When you lift off the throttle and drive for a couple minutes slowly all is fine again...any idea?
Great content. I own a 99 and 04 WJ. The 04, 4.7 has a constant tapping sound. I've no idea what else to do. New push rods, rockers and timing chain tensioners replaced 😢???
I have a 89 Cherokee 4.0 and I'm starting to find that parts are getting hard to find. Like the points and condenser. should I change out my distributor
Are there any sensors that can be pulled from the AW4 xmission? Are there any that can be added to the AW4? Pressure, temp ect... Keep us posted on the sweatshirts 👍
Distributor 4.0s have a cam position sensor as well, it's in the distributor, under the rotor. Parts store computers don't believe they exist, Rockauto doesn't believe they exist, but they do. I know they exist because mine has gone bad.
@@jamesl9686 Makes sense, I got sick of trying to diagnose mine in sub-freezing temperatures when it failed and dragged it to a shop who told me it was a bad cam sensor, it was pretty embarrassing when I got it back from the shop and they told me what it was. Definetely one to have a spare of on hand, though.
Ive got one of those bags that the owners manual comes in, but im using it to hold my owners manual. Otherwise id send it your way. If i ever find one that i can scoop up, i'd gladly get it to you. I should do a junkyard run soon anyways. Im replacing a wheel hub on my Liberty on tuesday. And once i do that ill just need to ignore the huge hole in my muffler until next spring and call it good 😂
Is there a sensor that would cause a lean under power backfire ? I've replaced plugs, coil, TPS and injectors. All cylinders are at 160psi on compression with the exception of #3 which is at 101psi.
I can't get my P0123 code to clear even with an OEM T.P.S.? I'm stuck in commy land California and get get my XJ smogged because check engine light is on? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Great video bud. My local yunkyard just has a bucket full of sensors that they've pulled themselves. Is there an obvious way to spot a Mopar CPS as apposed to after market garbage? Thanks for the video!
Doug, Dan here, I’m no need of your help. I have a 1999 Jeep Cherokee Sport 6cyl 4.0. So the water pump went out. Simple enough, less than a week later I’m driving home when it stalls. I had just got in the Jeep, just warmed to operating temp. Since then it happens every time it warms up. Could it be the coolant temp sensor, could it be the crankshaft position sensor. I’m really strapped for cash, and could really use some help. Please get back to me.
Don't forget about all the relays inside the interior fuse box area they control all of the starting and gas shut off relays they're in there above the fuse box very important one especially for those ignitions that have the transmitter hey Google
Always jeep a few t20 tirx bits ,a half inch long socket ,a half inch socket,and the multi screwdriver that will fit the torx bits ,alsi 3,4 5,8 hose foot if each and 4 hose clams in case your geater core starts steaming through the vents ir jyst gives out ,the fan fuel pum asd relay are alk the same so carry one extra ,yse quality parts especially when it comes to sensors ,justsatn.
Inhave a super rough idle and it clears up at about 2700 rpm and at idle the exhaust sounds like shit on idel as well. Amd when the air filter is off and you whack the throddle soumds like a toad is in there anyone have any ideas what yhis is?? Its nit the air semsor i tried that stayed the same
Were you about to say Throttle Positioning System at first? Haha it happens 😆Great video though, and yes I need to gather some more spare sensors myself asap! 😎
Never trust a junkyard when buying a rearend spcially if they say it's got low mileage, itll probably roar worse than the one your replacing just rebuild the one you've got
I thought I was the only one that bought new ones as spares as these so cheap. I have a spare air idle control valve, throttle pos sensor, fan relay (a must. ) and map sensor. I think I spent $75 for all 😂
I wouldn't bother getting the oil pressure sensor for this purpose unless you can find a low-mileage one you know will fit your engine. The 98 in particular used a different sensor from pretty much every other 4.0, and the one in the video looks like the aftermarket piece of crap that was on my ZJ when I got it. This sensor won't leave you walking, just with a sense of existential dread as your oil pressure gauge falsely shows zero, so it's worth it to get a new genuine Mopar sensor and probably never worry about it again.
I feel so much better. I thought I was the only one that replaces an oil sending unit and has his gauge permanently at zero for the past eight months. Where is the best place to get the genuine Mopar parts? I’m trying to get it fixed before my check engine light bulb burns out.🤣 thanks for any help WJ buddy!
@@robtheroadie2240 yeah sometimes the new aftermarket sensors are bad right out of the box, also I've heard the little passage that the sensor threads into can get clogged with sludge and other debris. Mine prob wasn't clogged since the sensor was physically falling apart but I was changing the oil so I flushed it out with some brake cleaner anyway. The Mopar part for my ZJ was available on RockAuto for around $60 but for some reason it didn't show up in the catalog, I had to look it up by its part number.
ONLY USE OEM THROTTLE POSITION SENSORS!!! . napa, carquest, O-fucks..... all the same part.... all with same problem they arnt sealed... and get full of water . also with crank position sensor.... needs to be OEM the napa one worked for a while... but the magnet strength VS OEM is like 5x
Might be simpler to just grab a junkyard throttle body. Clean it up. Sand the bottom so it’s flat. And keep it with all new sensors pre-installed. Also, be very aware of where you buy your sensors. I just had to return a IAC that DIDNT FIT. Pffft
Hey Doug! I got a video idea for you. How to do a totally comprehensive health check on the 4.0. Everything from compression, fuel pressure, injector performance, oil pressure, leak down, engine critical vacuum systems etc. I'm sure there's stuff I missed. Would be great to just have a good baseline reference to compare to. My buddy just managed to find a non running '92 wrangler for $500 that only needed ECU "brain surgery" and fired right up. Knowing how to check the health of the motor and to check that it's running right would be nice to see what next steps are needed to make it a reliable daily.
This would be incredible, especially for those of us with RENIX Jeeps. There's so little good information out there, and what good information there is seems spread across the internet. A good clear video saying this sensor = these problems, and this sensor = these problems would be SO helpful!
Awesome video, as a new XJ owner I'm gonna put this to use.
Hey Doug! Being from the 2.5 clan in my MJ, here's what I can tell. The 2.5 is actually really reliable and doesn't have that much sensor problems. However, its problem is popularity and rarety. Many sensors are on close-out deals even on Rockauto, especially the manual TPS sensors. Water temp and oil pressure sensors from vehicles with full deluxe cluster are worth something, ECU's are important for 2.5s, since they're rare, and has been many versions from year to year. A good functioning idle stepper motor is worth gold. And finally, air temperature sensor; IIRC, you can't get them anymore, so I converted to and AC Delco unit. It's like 1 or 2 degrees F off from the original, but works great, and I only had to change connector styles.
Great reminder. Rummaging through a junkyard is a great way to spend a Saturday morning.
As an XJ enthusiast I can attest to the need for spare sensors! Great video.
I’m having a problem with my 1994 Cherokee Sport it started running rough idle was going up and down so I changed the entire throttle body I have a parts truck ,I also changed the injectors and the O2 sensor and also the spark plugs and they were black the new ones and black smoke was coming out of the tail pipe and it’s gotten worse now it’s hard to start and won’t even run while idling and this truck has always ran perfect do you have any suggestions on what I should do or have any ideas on what could possibly be wrong
A video like this for the 4.7 would be GREAT!
It's basically the exact same thing. All the same sensors. I buy all my sensors new tho from Rockauto. Those junkyard cars are there for a reason
I love seeing videos like this. I've had a jeep for 7 years now. Been through the mountains and plenty of trails it shouldn't have been. It's been eating nitrous for over 2 years. Went to the drag strip every Thursday for almost a year straight. Put a 4.0 header on and the rest of the exhaust is 3inch stainless with a 5 inch square pipe on the end off of a late model dirt track car. Limited slip in the rear. No sway bars. All I've replaced is water pump and radiator. Never even taken the valve cover off. Yall must be doing something wrong with yours to have all these problems. Maybe you should stop caring and just drive it. The more you care the more stuff seems to break.
U are a God send, thank u for helping us keep the old school on the road longer.
Two points:
(1) The TPS can start going bad, but not bad enough to set a code in the ECU, making it difficult to diagnose. One symptom of this is the torque converter occasionally coming out of lockup on the highway. Sister thought that the engine was "missing" (like a cylinder occasionally misfiring), but the RPM was actually blipping up slightly each time it happened. Torque converter coming out of lockup. Replaced TPS, problem went away.
(2) A sensor I would add is the transmission Output Speed Sensor (42RE, obviously). It's very easy to replace, and in fact can be done trans-fluid-leak-free if the vehicle is on somewhat of a downhill slope (facing downhill). When the sensor goes bad, the transmission will not shift out of first gear. So now you're not technically stuck on the side of the road, but being stuck in first could have you running out of gas before you get home or to a gas station. Had that happen to my sister, also.
The next screw or bolt that is hard coming out, tap on the head. It will help loosen the threads 👍🏻 Love the video man
Excellent video.
Had the crank position sensor, throttle position sensor, rear main seal, water pump, power steering pump, window regulators, and axle seals immediately go bad on a "new" WJ with 160k miles. Replaced every fluid, wear component, and sensor. I keep spare parts, fluids, and equipment strapped over the rear axle behind the seat. The excess weight does have an impact going uphill, but it also improves traction in winter and reduces bodyroll. Can't always count on having cell reception and unscheduled hikes are inconvenient.
What an amazing video, brother -- thank you! I've got a 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport and all I find myself wishing after watching this video is that you were my neighborhood go-to mechanic.
Where you dropped the TPS screws is home for spare CPS, oil sensor, cam sensor,cap and rotor(XJ). In the WJ it’s home for spare ECM that has been programmed.
This is a super video!
Sure enough, I have those kinds of spares, but they are all new parts for my now 20 year old Jeep Grand Cherokee! Though
my Grand Cherokee give me grief at times, but I still love it and I know that these parts won't be around forever, I have already
have felt this necessity in especially when I fully intend to do partial restorations across the board! And so when I saw this
video title and thumbnail, I also too felt that I this was a must see! Since I've seen other videos dating back about 4-6 months
ago on this channel, I know that everything for the Jeep enthusiast and/or professionals repair guide is all relevant no matter
what and I can appreciate D&E in the Garage and the direction that the channel is going. At this point, I am an avid follower but
not exactly a full time follower but i suppose that things will change in time. Some channels tend to go archaic or caveman style
while turning wrenches and this would be be a turn-off for some of those viewers, but could be entertaining for some viewers!
Yet for those of us that has been trained to do things the right way and to be absolutely thorough in all that we do. Example: I
know of one channel that is nearly out to abuse and destroy their tools like no other and that does not suit me well at all! Tools
are for to make a solid living and NOT to have to replace them every time they turn around! Those kinds of individuals that abuse
and destroy tools need to be slapped up besides the noggin with a pork chop, for sure! Still, I do feel that D&E is a good channel
and I just know that I can rely on some good content when I comes right down to some of those brass tacks! D&E is about one
of 4 channels that I know of that can accommodate folks in a grand manner, which could be refined just a little bit going forward
and I believe that every bit of their knowledge can be a big benefit to virtually any Jeep owner and it is with the building of a great community for TH-cam is where it is at. Thank-You D&E for sharing and I appreciate all that you do and with that said, here
comes my subscription, coming back right back at yah's!! D&E was actually one of the first Jeep related channels that I had
started getting the sometimes obscure information that I was sorely needing since I took ownership of my 2003 Jeep Grand
Cherokee and so in particular, my Jeep at times has caused me some real @$$ pains from the git go! Mine is so equipped with
the 4.7 Liter that has the rich and raw horsepower that some people long for but they aren't necessarily long lasting.
By the way just change all 3 throttle body sensors. WJ feels like different vehicle.
Once again, you have nailed it. Extremely accurate on the TPS and the oil sending unit sensors.
Drove through flooded street in the morning and by the afternoon I did not have first gear. Had to roll out of the parking lot is second gear. Made it home just fine TPS dried out overnight and in the morning. It was good as new, or as I should say good as used. One day when we get old Doug, you and I are going to sit on the porch have a couple cold ones, and complain about how these TPS sensors in these new flying cars are so much harder to replace than these WJ’s.
My 2000 XJ is starting to act like the transmission is going. It was rebuilt about 15 months ago. They said it wouldn’t last because I have a 32” tire with 3:55 gears. I’ll try the TPS sensor first. Also losing coolant with no explanation of where it’s going. Great video
Replace your radiator cap first and see if you coolant leak goes away... otherwise check your head for cracks. I have 2 2000 xjs, one has already had the dreaded cracked 331 head. The other had a mystery leak, and it turned out being a radiator bad cap.
Just got a 96 ZJ that I'm going to fix up, thanks for the valuable info.
As a 96 ZJ owner myself: suggest you get 98 ZJ sensors for the throttle body! The only difference is the connectors. They are way more secure. Yes you will need to cut and butt connect/crimp with heat shrink. The IAC valve will no longer have that 90 deg turn. As good as this video is: don’t blame it all on the sensor…. brittle wire at t the connector and basic connectors on the 96 that Jeep upgraded just two years later. Good luck!
Thanks bro, finding out the throttle control sensor was messing with the transmission shifting. Ran to the parts store, fixed my issue I’ve been having for months. 🎉
I have so many spare parts in my 99 Cherokee 4.0, the local parts stores call me to see if I have any extras. Now I'm stuck trying to find the cause of my #4 misfire. Something keeps frying that plug. No coolant leaks. 184k miles on it.
Great video. I just had to clean the IAC sensor in my XJ. It's running now, but since my XJ takes me to the middle of Nowhere, NV occasionally, I think having spare sensors on hand is probably a good idea. Thanks!
Great information! Thanks for taking the time to make this video!
Spare items to add ; ignition coil, ignition switch, belt, (and for more extreme folks; drive shaft, ujoints, tierod ends, axle shafts with hub already attached,
Ha, ha, my 2007 VW Golf with over 200K miles never had any sensor issues, basically they are resistive or Hall sensors....I have a '93 Wrangler that I intend to restore though and this video is really useful. Will collect all the sensors... Let other people drive the electric cars, we keep what we have...:)
Got an XJ a few months ago. First oil change I broke the oil pressure gauge when taking the oil filter out. That thing is fun to get to! lol
The cam synchronizer is the part that goes into the oil pump and needs to be timed. The sensor is the plastic part on top that you have to remove to time the synchronizer. As long as you don't turn the engine over it's easy to replace.
I carry top/bottom radiator hoses also.
Because of your advice, I grabbed the fan relay for my 4.7.
Nice video, clear and to the point. One correction, it's manifold ABSOLUTE pressure sensor.
Awesome video as always. Nice Hoody but isn't the firing order of the Jeep 4.0 153624? Your shirt has the last 2 digits reversed unless I'm unaware of something...
Regarding the oil and water temperature sensors/sending units... Make you match up to what you have in your own Jeep: gauges or "idiot" lights. The sending units are different for each case.
I keep most of those in the glovebox of my 01 ram 1500 (5.2l). I've had to use the spare IAC.
I used to be a junk yard hound but not so much anymore, although I just wish that the junkyard that I would frequent used
to have a shuttle bus to get you down deep into the mix but I just don't think that they still have this service anymore..
great suggestions! I guess the important thing is to make sure the old junkyard parts actually work.
How do you know if a junkyard sensor is any good?
Isn’t it best to buy a Mopar sensor new?
In 2004 WJs got a proper fan relay in the fuse block. Prior years had the TERRIBLE fan relay under the passenger headlight that required you to keep the motor on suicide watch.
How about an update on Eric?
Any tips for getting stubborn sensors off in the yard? Cause hitting them with PB blaster and coming back the next day doesn’t always work at yards that just Willy nilly crush vehicles for no reason and no warning…
Kinda funny i took my xj to the dealership to fix the tps issues, and 3k later still have the same issue. A $15 switch solved the whole issue for the tps and no one has posted it on any forum. The brake light switch has a tiny amount of play can cause all these issues.
Just literally 20 minutes/8 beers ago swapped the TPS from my 99 parts WJ into my 01 daily WJ and hopefully solved something I've been fighting for a week. Deep water on the road home and a coil strip and plugs later, I'm 160$ in and hopefully fixed. I'm on my 3rd WJ and it still still boggles me I can ford downstream with water over the headlights but a puddle takes me out for a week. 25 miles away from 200K.
I have an odd one... getting high voltage (even with the ignition off) across the signal wire of the TPS. I trace the wires and it seems like oil is flowing through the wire casing? Maybe from pcv valve failure or something? Going to end up scrapping this 4.0 unless You want to buy it. In Washington. Ran good and still runs but has oil in the wires now and I am having issues finding the short.
9:00 Its held on with 5.5mm, I was at the junkyard today and pulled one. Bring your complete husky socket go box. Asked about those throttle body sensors 8$ each... Meh. Got a bunch more fuses today free
Why'd you delete my last comment about grabbing all the FMX and relays for 3$? Maybe TH-cam did? I got 50 fuses and 30 relays for 3$..
Got every sensor and big brick fuse all in a tool box. No one understands why I’ve carried them all around but they were basically free. Oh and a starter in there too just in case !
My 2003 4L WJ shows fuel control pressure out of range to high ,p 1281, please help me,I change the fuel regulator still same
Hello, very good day, I have a 2.5L and I am wondering if it shares a cylinder head with the 5.2 or the 5.9, I don't know if my lazy 2.5L could be updated, I am also intrigued if there is any camshaft update for he . greeting !!! thanks for the information
Highly recommend using Mopar sensors if available and not knock off cheap ones. It's bit me in the axx to many times. I tried going cheap but my WJ didn't like it.
I had a map sensor split in half on my WJ, like to drove me insane trying to figure out what the problem was. went to a pick and pull a few dollars later was back in business.
The tool that works is the right tool for the job.
I'll tell you something: the TP sensor works with the signal from the clock spring that goes to the steering wheel. When that gets damaged, the airbag light comes on and the truck starts to fail.
I removed the temperature sensor that turns the fan on. Mine failed and cause my radiator to burst in my 02 WJ. I replaced with an older model manual fan ,after buying a new radiator,$$
grabbing an extra ECU would not be a bad idea, generally the only thing that goes wrong with them are the three electrolytic caps, but if they happen to fail while on a trip, you are calling a tow truck. I keep a spare for my 2.5 Wrangler in my spare parts bag.
Crank sensor is not easy on a 2003 Grand Cherokee. Mine swelled and was completely stuck and would not move. I could not get it out even after making the access hole bigger and it was starting to distort and about to break. I used a few drops of lye at a time to dissolve the bell housing. Aluminum is attacked by acids and bases while steel is only affected by acid. Took 3 days but I got it out, lather rinse repeat. The reason I am watching this is because last night the packrats ate the wire on the new one and I could not remember how the dash came apart.
Atleast on XJs the cam sensor is only used to determine where the engine is on startup. If you unplug it the engine wont start but if you start the engine and unplug it while the engines running the engine will stay running like normal but it will throw a CEL.
So we have a 2000 jeep cherokee classic 2wd, 132k miles, wiring harness looks like a rat nest and has been chopped on, I've spent days goin through the harness to re hooked all cut wires, replaced fuel pump crank sensor tried new map sensor, the and relay started buzzing on me so we purchased a new one and does the same thing, and now the fuel pump stays running when Key is turned on, we tried a junk yard ecu the fuel pump primed and turned off as it should, but still will not start
I have a 95 zj 4.0 and sometimes the car shakes crazy on acceleration/misfiring (no fault codes except lambda sensor).
When you lift off the throttle and drive for a couple minutes slowly all is fine again...any idea?
Great content. I own a 99 and 04 WJ. The 04, 4.7 has a constant tapping sound. I've no idea what else to do. New push rods, rockers and timing chain tensioners replaced 😢???
I have a 89 Cherokee 4.0 and I'm starting to find that parts are getting hard to find. Like the points and condenser. should I change out my distributor
After cleaning tps. How do you get it sot correctly
Thank you for doing The Lord’s work. ❤
Are there any sensors that can be pulled from the AW4 xmission? Are there any that can be added to the AW4? Pressure, temp ect...
Keep us posted on the sweatshirts 👍
Distributor 4.0s have a cam position sensor as well, it's in the distributor, under the rotor. Parts store computers don't believe they exist, Rockauto doesn't believe they exist, but they do. I know they exist because mine has gone bad.
@@jamesl9686 Makes sense, I got sick of trying to diagnose mine in sub-freezing temperatures when it failed and dragged it to a shop who told me it was a bad cam sensor, it was pretty embarrassing when I got it back from the shop and they told me what it was. Definetely one to have a spare of on hand, though.
We need the video for the 4.7HO Doug! 🤜🏻🤛🏻
Would a faulty throttle position/throttle body sensor cause a transmission that doesn't want to shift out of first gear?
Oh, I think you answered my question at 4:25. I need to be more patient 😅
Ive got one of those bags that the owners manual comes in, but im using it to hold my owners manual. Otherwise id send it your way. If i ever find one that i can scoop up, i'd gladly get it to you. I should do a junkyard run soon anyways. Im replacing a wheel hub on my Liberty on tuesday. And once i do that ill just need to ignore the huge hole in my muffler until next spring and call it good 😂
Do you have a video on how to clean the iac housing
Is there a sensor that would cause a lean under power backfire ? I've replaced plugs, coil, TPS and injectors. All cylinders are at 160psi on compression with the exception of #3 which is at 101psi.
I can't get my P0123 code to clear even with an OEM T.P.S.? I'm stuck in commy land California and get get my XJ smogged because check engine light is on? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Great video bud. My local yunkyard just has a bucket full of sensors that they've pulled themselves. Is there an obvious way to spot a Mopar CPS as apposed to after market garbage?
Thanks for the video!
Doug, Dan here, I’m no need of your help. I have a 1999 Jeep Cherokee Sport 6cyl 4.0. So the water pump went out. Simple enough, less than a week later I’m driving home when it stalls. I had just got in the Jeep, just warmed to operating temp. Since then it happens every time it warms up. Could it be the coolant temp sensor, could it be the crankshaft position sensor. I’m really strapped for cash, and could really use some help. Please get back to me.
What would be your suggestion? Just change oil pressure sensor on my WJ. Still no pressure on the dashboard.
I have a high idle between my shifts on my manual transmission which one should I fix
Excellent video sir. Thank you very much.
Don't forget about all the relays inside the interior fuse box area they control all of the starting and gas shut off relays they're in there above the fuse box very important one especially for those ignitions that have the transmitter hey Google
Great information! Thanks for your videos.
Great video! Thanks for posting!
Always jeep a few t20 tirx bits ,a half inch long socket ,a half inch socket,and the multi screwdriver that will fit the torx bits ,alsi 3,4 5,8 hose foot if each and 4 hose clams in case your geater core starts steaming through the vents ir jyst gives out ,the fan fuel pum asd relay are alk the same so carry one extra ,yse quality parts especially when it comes to sensors ,justsatn.
How can I go to the u pull in NJ if you guys snagged everything for the xj 4.0 already lmao!
Thank you!!
How you get a 4.0l hoodie?
Inhave a super rough idle and it clears up at about 2700 rpm and at idle the exhaust sounds like shit on idel as well. Amd when the air filter is off and you whack the throddle soumds like a toad is in there anyone have any ideas what yhis is?? Its nit the air semsor i tried that stayed the same
Wow d@E you did very well video make sensen thakns for your time
Were you about to say Throttle Positioning System at first? Haha it happens 😆Great video though, and yes I need to gather some more spare sensors myself asap! 😎
Hey man
I have a 96 Tj with a 4.0
I only have High setting left for my heater, what should I change?
Thanks 👊
The rheostat (The knob that controls fan speed) would be my first choice. Thats what happened to mine.
@@davidpippin3460 Thanks man!👊
Where did you get that hoodie
I appreciate you
Thanks for the video
Never trust a junkyard when buying a rearend spcially if they say it's got low mileage, itll probably roar worse than the one your replacing just rebuild the one you've got
Very good video, thanks
I thought I was the only one that bought new ones as spares as these so cheap. I have a spare air idle control valve, throttle pos sensor, fan relay (a must. ) and map sensor. I think I spent $75 for all 😂
I suddenly need to tale a trip to pull-a-part...😂
Thanks for your video 😎👍
My cam and crank position sensors constantly go out I can't stand it
Thanks for the video but, it’s a Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor.
I wouldn't bother getting the oil pressure sensor for this purpose unless you can find a low-mileage one you know will fit your engine. The 98 in particular used a different sensor from pretty much every other 4.0, and the one in the video looks like the aftermarket piece of crap that was on my ZJ when I got it. This sensor won't leave you walking, just with a sense of existential dread as your oil pressure gauge falsely shows zero, so it's worth it to get a new genuine Mopar sensor and probably never worry about it again.
I feel so much better. I thought I was the only one that replaces an oil sending unit and has his gauge permanently at zero for the past eight months. Where is the best place to get the genuine Mopar parts? I’m trying to get it fixed before my check engine light bulb burns out.🤣 thanks for any help WJ buddy!
@@robtheroadie2240 yeah sometimes the new aftermarket sensors are bad right out of the box, also I've heard the little passage that the sensor threads into can get clogged with sludge and other debris. Mine prob wasn't clogged since the sensor was physically falling apart but I was changing the oil so I flushed it out with some brake cleaner anyway.
The Mopar part for my ZJ was available on RockAuto for around $60 but for some reason it didn't show up in the catalog, I had to look it up by its part number.
Seems like the more I look into the XJ/4L the more I think the biggest issues are electrical.
thank bunch....
Great video ❤
Thanks bud
oil pressure sensor will cause it to run rough
ONLY USE OEM THROTTLE POSITION SENSORS!!!
.
napa, carquest, O-fucks..... all the same part.... all with same problem
they arnt sealed... and get full of water
.
also with crank position sensor.... needs to be OEM
the napa one worked for a while... but the magnet strength VS OEM is like 5x
DANG! just found and wow, yes keep all those as a spare for a 4.0l haha.
Might be simpler to just grab a junkyard throttle body. Clean it up. Sand the bottom so it’s flat. And keep it with all new sensors pre-installed. Also, be very aware of where you buy your sensors. I just had to return a IAC that DIDNT FIT. Pffft