Brushless Motor Shaft Replacement

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ธ.ค. 2024

ความคิดเห็น • 73

  • @geologist_luna
    @geologist_luna 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Bob Ross of the Motor community? Nice video Bub, very useful, thank you.

  • @GuilhermeSilva-qo3bo
    @GuilhermeSilva-qo3bo 7 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Hey, Robert, I'm from Brazil and I really enjoy your channel! Very nice work! Your explanations are very helpful!

  • @roddraym
    @roddraym 4 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Very insightful! Thanks Robert!

  • @JonathanRansom
    @JonathanRansom 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    I love opening my phone and seeing your TH-cam notifications!

  • @MisterXS75
    @MisterXS75 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    hello Robert i have a slitghtly different bldc motor mine has no holes on the snap ring so i cannot grabt it with a plier like you did, any clue on how to remove the snap ring ? obviously there is not screw on the shaft either looks like it is sealed but there certainly is a way to open it as there are refurbished motors like mine sold everywhere i just would like to save a few bucks fixing mine by myself. Thank you in advance for any help

  • @eformance
    @eformance 7 ปีที่แล้ว +15

    Be cautious with a torch, if you get the magnets too hot they will lose their magnetism.

    • @RobertCowanDIY
      @RobertCowanDIY  7 ปีที่แล้ว +5

      truth. that's why I try and avoid using them on motors.

    • @eformance
      @eformance 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Necro spammers, die!

  • @lemarkmccray7774
    @lemarkmccray7774 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Hey what are the names of the tools that you used to grind the shaft down and my shaft has a flat side for the gear screw will this cut it flat on one side and where can I find these tools thanks

  • @1bengrubb
    @1bengrubb 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Robert! what is that Dremel bit you grind with?

  • @samuelschuur7044
    @samuelschuur7044 7 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Hooray more videos on Crippling Depression.

    • @RobertCowanDIY
      @RobertCowanDIY  7 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      There are a lot still coming, stay tuned!

  • @DavidMolony
    @DavidMolony 6 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    After snapping 3 allen keys (good quality Bondhus ones like in the vid...) trying to remove the screw from one of these propdrives, I looked at this video... it didn't help, but I later discovered the solution - use a soldering iron tip in the middle of the grub screw. I left it stuck in there for about 10 minutes, and then it came free easily. They seem to glue it in with some kind of black magic threadlocker...

    • @RobertCowanDIY
      @RobertCowanDIY  6 ปีที่แล้ว

      Yes, they can be REALLY tight in there. I've always had good luck with a high quality allen key. if you don't have a 'nice' set of allen keys, this might be the time to at least try some out. They really can make a huge difference. I've opened up a couple dozen motors and never had an issue when using my good set of allen keys. But I really should have mentioned that heat always helps. Penetrating oil can help too.

  • @mq1506
    @mq1506 7 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Just a comment for those without a lathe, I know a bunch of people who've left the circlip groove out of the replacement shaft as unless your loading it in that direction (very uncommon with a combat bot) it's nearly impossible to separate the outer can from the stator assembly due to the magnetic forces created during operation. The circlip groove is also a major stress concentration. I've even seen motors come from the factory without anything retaining them axially.

    • @RobertCowanDIY
      @RobertCowanDIY  7 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      I most likely could have gotten by just using a spacer between the pulley and where the motor mounts. The motor wouldn't be able to go anywhere because of the pulley. BUT, I figured I would at least show it, in case anyone else wants to add the groove.

    • @blackopal3138
      @blackopal3138 ปีที่แล้ว

      Hello. Can anyone here help me? I took apart a brushless tool, just to spin the housing and reorient the power button, and I can't put it back together, lol. There is a rubber ring in the bottom of the housing that the coil slides into, and the bearing sits in that ring, but I can't get the shaft past the magnetic housing, into the center, the magnet housing is too strong???/
      Any ideas? ...please :/ lol
      peace

  • @Ender_Wiggin
    @Ender_Wiggin 7 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    love the video. I had a very similar problem but the shaft in my motor had a taper. It was the shaft for a Turnigy Aerodrive SK3- 6374 149 kv. How would you replace the shaft in this motor? More specifically, how would you match the taper so that the friction fit is still good.

  • @waynefilkins8394
    @waynefilkins8394 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I really need help with something. Is there any way to make it so that the shaft doesn't move with the housing (whatever the outside part is that moves). Or would I have to mount that end onto like a ball bearing or something?

    • @RobertCowanDIY
      @RobertCowanDIY  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      That would be an inrunner motor.

  • @ascherlafayette8572
    @ascherlafayette8572 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I'm running an xnova 4025 560 on a heli, is there any risk of damaging my motor doing this? Am I better off just grinding down the current shaft?
    Thanks

  • @gerryroberts662
    @gerryroberts662 ปีที่แล้ว

    Haveing diffuiculty replaceing a Motor on my vintage disk cutter, But was thinking of replaceing with a random fan motor.. of the same size, It uses a shaft like that,, I can the shaft machined. for a slower speed,,

  • @steadfast9354
    @steadfast9354 5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Any recommendations for those of us whose "loctited" low-quality hex set-screw was too tight/glued for our properly-sized high-quality allen driver, which led to the rounding off the screw heads long before a conclusion of having needed to pre-heat it before removing would have commonly been drawn?

    • @RobertCowanDIY
      @RobertCowanDIY  5 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      Eh, that depends... Your best bet is to try and drill it out, but that can be tricky. If it's stuck in there, you could try using superglue on the end of a hex driver or something, but it probably won't want to come out. If it's large enough, screw extractors work well (just search for them on amazon or wherever), but if it's too small, you might need to drill them out.

    • @steadfast9354
      @steadfast9354 5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      Thank you! Well done videos, love when someone does a professional job

    • @jstins
      @jstins 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      William Keller I hint for next time. Use a pointy ended soldering iron placed on/in the set screw to soften the thread lock that was used to keep it from vibrating out. Then go easy applying force with the Allen wrench.

    • @sharpnesstherapy502
      @sharpnesstherapy502 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      Wera hex plus

  • @wfrth
    @wfrth ปีที่แล้ว

    Could you help me replaces a 8s 1250 kv spectrum engine shaft or just tell me the parts I need

  • @yash.s3321
    @yash.s3321 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    hi, I have a Konica Minolta Bizhub Outer rotor type Brushless Motor whose shaft is badly damaged I want to know how are we supposed to take its Shaft Out?

  • @roberttan5602
    @roberttan5602 6 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    If you want to only make the shaft shorter, can you just cut the shaft directly?

  • @trumanhw
    @trumanhw 10 หลายเดือนก่อน

    I don't get it -- what does it use for the PTO..?
    Eg. why doesn't the shaft have a hex to transmit the motor's torque..?

    • @RobertCowanDIY
      @RobertCowanDIY  10 หลายเดือนก่อน

      What's PTO? I'm not familiar with that acronym. There's just a set screw on these, which I've later changed. The original design didn't allow for a hex shaft.

  • @Outland9000
    @Outland9000 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Instead of grinding the flats on the shaft could you counter bore some holes and use slightly longer set screws?

    • @glennedward2201
      @glennedward2201 ปีที่แล้ว

      Better to have a flat theyre stronger. Ive seem a flat combined woth a 2.5mm through hole where the set screw was also a through pin. The combination makes it impossible to slip.😅

  • @douro20
    @douro20 7 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    BTW those snap-ring pliers aren't actually made by Channellock. They are made by Wilde Tool in Hiawatha, Kansas, the same people who make Craftsman sledge hammers and pry bars.

    • @sifterbox
      @sifterbox ปีที่แล้ว

      If they aren't made in Meadville they are not Channellock.

  • @adaml52
    @adaml52 5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Hi,
    A soldering iron is probably the best way of heating the grub screws to loosen the loctite.
    Also you can heat the housing the same way, to break the loctite, making it easier to press the shaft out.
    A piece of 8mm silver steel / drill rod would make good shaft for the motor.
    Marking the grub screw locations, using that method, will gall the motor housing bore, when removing the shaft.
    That clip is an external circlip not a snap ring, a snap ring is circular in cross section.
    Hope the was helpful to you.
    Adam

    • @rossrcfallacaro3422
      @rossrcfallacaro3422 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      Adam L I have rounded the grub screw on my motor. What do you recommend I do to get it out so I can replace the prop shaft?

  • @tfergusonjr
    @tfergusonjr 7 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    This may be a simpleton question but one I'd like to know the answer to. I am building 2 aircraft for drone operations. One fixed wing and one multirotor. I have purchased 2 types of motors recommended for each. The one I purchased for the multirotor has NO shaft on the mount side while the one for the fixed wing has an 11mm shaft extending from the mount side. WHY THE DIFFERENCE IN SHAFT? (Multirotor = Quanum MT4114, Fixed wing = Sunnysky X2814)

    • @RobertCowanDIY
      @RobertCowanDIY  7 ปีที่แล้ว

      well, there is most likely some sort of prop adapter. many quadcopter motors don't really rely on a shaft, but rather use some sort of adapter for the prop.

  • @douglasbutler4360
    @douglasbutler4360 7 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    The circlip groove is now the weak point in the whole shaft. If at all possible you should instead make a spacer and use the pulley itself to retain the rotor.

    • @Outland9000
      @Outland9000 5 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      Ture, but could those motors even produce enough torque to twist shear an 8mm axel?

  • @gerryroberts662
    @gerryroberts662 ปีที่แล้ว

    What type of motor is that, i think that might just work. ??

    • @RobertCowanDIY
      @RobertCowanDIY  ปีที่แล้ว

      At 20 seconds, I literally say exactly what it is.

  • @glennedward2201
    @glennedward2201 ปีที่แล้ว

    Are outrunners easier than inrunners to swap shafts?

  • @devalopr
    @devalopr 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    October is about to end ... hope you will resume your work on the stratasys 3D printer , i'm excited

    • @RobertCowanDIY
      @RobertCowanDIY  7 ปีที่แล้ว

      Yep, I'm cleaning up the workshop and getting back to the stratasys! I won't have any videos on it for awhile, but I am currently doing some research and purchasing parts and will resume working on it. it will be the next project I tackle.

    • @devalopr
      @devalopr 7 ปีที่แล้ว

      awesome!

  • @theideasman6018
    @theideasman6018 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Is it possible to put 2 motors on the 1 shaft

    • @RobertCowanDIY
      @RobertCowanDIY  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      possible, yes! worthwhile, no. they will most likely fight each other.

    • @theideasman6018
      @theideasman6018 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@RobertCowanDIY why will they fight each other if they are spinning the same direction. I'm new to this sory

    • @RobertCowanDIY
      @RobertCowanDIY  3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@theideasman6018 Slight inconsistencies in their speed. They won't move at exactly the same rate, so they could fight each other. I have used dual motors before, but with belt drive. You can certainly try it and see what happens, but it's generally frowned upon. In short... brushless motors need a driver (ESC) to spin. That driver tells them how fast to move by pulsing to the phases (the motors have 3 phases). The speed at which the pulses are sent tells the motor how fast to spin. If the two ESCs are slightly out of sync, or if the windings aren't identical, you could get them moving at slightly different speeds. If one is moving slower than the other, it would be braking the other, creating excess heat.

    • @theideasman6018
      @theideasman6018 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@RobertCowanDIY thanks man. I've set up/modafide two 2205/2300 motors to slide on to one shaft. Each motor is running a 20a opto esc off a pdb on 4s. What do you think will go wrong first. Just old parts off a drone. Bit of fun really

  • @av8tore71
    @av8tore71 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    What size? 2mm?

  • @rattlerrobotics8932
    @rattlerrobotics8932 6 ปีที่แล้ว

    What lathe do you have?

    • @RobertCowanDIY
      @RobertCowanDIY  6 ปีที่แล้ว

      I have the Harbor Freight version of this: www.grizzly.com/products/9-x-19-Bench-Lathe/G4000 It's OK, I got it cheap on craigslist. I don't use a lathe much, so it works well for what I need, but if I start doing more parts on it, I might upgrade.

  • @DaveMcAnulty
    @DaveMcAnulty 7 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I use my vice as a 'horizontal arbor press' all the time :)

    • @RobertCowanDIY
      @RobertCowanDIY  7 ปีที่แล้ว

      same here! but I don't have a bigger one, mine is limited to around 4" or so. The arbor press was a good addition to the shop.

  • @eformance
    @eformance 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    You should make a 100lb bot called "Raging Insomnia" and make a spinner within a spinner design that is slightly out of phase, so the spinners look like they are rotating very slowly.

    • @eformance
      @eformance 7 ปีที่แล้ว

      Let's say you have 2 spinners, one smaller than the other, mounted coaxially on a robot. One spinner has a large hollow shaft that the other shaft passes through. Both spinners would be belt driven. You spin one of them at say 60 revolutions per second and the other one at 59 revolutions per second. The slight speed difference will show up as a stroboscopic type effect, causing it to appear to spin slowly. Bonus points if the lighting is at 60hz and you modulate the speed of the spinners to produce a 1-2hz beat frequency (also causing it to look like it's spinning slowly)

    • @Outland9000
      @Outland9000 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@eformance 😵

  • @huckstirred7112
    @huckstirred7112 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    i am gonna do this to my angle grinders

  • @AdityaMehendale
    @AdityaMehendale 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    Clickspring's bought shares in DykemBlue ^^

  • @makingthings277
    @makingthings277 7 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    ...You got a mill but you opt to hand grind it on the floor? Band saw cut when you were going to put it on the lathe anyway? Suspect you are sir, suspect.

    • @RobertCowanDIY
      @RobertCowanDIY  7 ปีที่แล้ว

      Right?! I probably should have used the mill, but this was just quicker and easier. Sometimes I just use the tools that are closest ;-)

    • @serkanozkan8793
      @serkanozkan8793 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      I also have a mill but I don`t want my soft and nicely calibrated slides attacked by diamond or sand particals that create permanent defect! He may be doing because of that!

  • @rahulghosh4289
    @rahulghosh4289 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Heating magnet results them to loose their magnetic properties please don't heat them

  • @AdityaMehendale
    @AdityaMehendale 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    "heat to loosen them up"?? --> Be careful you don't demagnetize the rotor!

  • @Mike_Greene
    @Mike_Greene 6 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Uh .. Don't they make couplers, extenders, etc for this very situation??? Waves lots of time and don't cost much. When you think of the time you use to exchange shafts you could've ordered a party to come the next day and won't have to worry about running the motor. I'm sure there are other ways. You're doing this just to get the most 'heft" out of it. Lol , smh, and sigh