Make Your Car Engine and Transmission Last a Very Long Time - Top 5 Tips On Car Care
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 พ.ย. 2024
- In this video I will give you my top 5 tips on maintaining a vehicle that could last for a very long time. I will give you my advice on what engine oil to use and how to do an oil change, my thoughts on how not to have an engine that over heats, advice on how to maintain a transmission and diy transmission flush, thoughts on what parts to use and timing belt and timing belt component replacement and more.
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Due to factors beyond the control of Ratchets and Wrenches, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. Ratchets and Wrenches assumes no liability for any property or personal damage that may arise from doing a repair on your vehicle after watching any of my repair video's. Due to factors beyond the control of Ratchets and Wrenches, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Again Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Ratchets and Wrenches.
This man appears to have a running Pontiac. He knows what hes talking about.
Ryan Williams my thought exactly!!! Had a grand am, was my first car. I always had problems with it no matter how good I took care of it.
Hahahaha for ever hahahaha
It has an ecotec engine. I have one. Bulletproof.
Seems to have an Opel Engine, enough explaination so far.
Ryan Williams LOL
For me to remember easy
1. Change oil frequently and use synthetic oil. Change oil filter every oil change
2. Change air filter when needed, same with brake pads and keep an eye on those tires
3. Keep an eye on the timing belt
4. Keep an eye on your water pump. Replace with timing belt. Keep an eye on radiator cap.
5. Replace that transmission fluid and filter.
Don't forget, the Thermostat
Also power steering. Very easy to overlook and costly to replace the rack
Replace the clutch and pressure plate before it leads to pressure plate failure. But clutch and pressure plate only need to be changed about every 200,000 miles or so. If you can handle a clutch well, 250,000 miles is very easy to obtain. If you have a Front wheel drive vehicle, check CV joint boots. If the boots are ripped and the axle makes a clicking noise when turning, replace the CV Joint drive axle. I have seen many accidents, some with death, because people do not replace CV joint drive axles, which are easy to change. If you hear a strange droning noise when idling, the fuel pump is about to fail. But do not worry. It does not happen often and it is relatively easy to change. Oil change is every 3000 miles for me. Change differential fluid every 50,000 miles. I must be doing something right. This month my vehicle turns 425,000 miles. The original engine and transmission and axles are still running strong. I bought the vehicle new in 1996.
Also make sure when your heat meter start going to hot/ overheating...to fix the problem immediately and not continue driving your car.
Thank you!
My vehicle I bought new in 1996 just turned 400,000 miles on the original engine and five speed manual transmission. The trick is to do all your own repairs, maintenance, upgrades, and modifications yourself. The, "professionals," are nothing but clock punchers. They will not take pride in their work nor give it the special attention you will. They just do things as fast as possible and send it out. If you do your own work, you also save 92%. You will not believe how long your vehicle will last if you do all your own work on it. Even an infamous car can last a very long time if you are the one doing everything to it.
I went to the garage to change a coil pack and charged me £150, that's a part I could have bought from ebay for £50 and changed myself in 1 minute. The only time I use a garage now is for an M.O.T, bought my own tools, a Haynes car manual and educated myself on the Web, so far I've done everything for a service multiple times, changed a gearbox, timing belts ect. Saved a load of money and have some pride in myself.
@@reikoruffneck4613 Best of all, you took the time to do it right and not have to answer to some boss screaming at you to get it out the door and get the next car. Those clock punchers take a lot of shortcuts because of the pressure they are under, to get the job done in a hurry. It is not rare to find missing bolts, crossthreaded bolts, missing covers, and lose components. It is not really the mechanics fault. They know what they are doing. They are just so rushed to get the job done and send it out the door. Anybody would mess up. I will never go to a "professional," mechanic again. Wait until you see how much you save replacing the roof on your house yourself, or changing your own water heater, or repairing and running your own plumbing. I have not hired anybody to do my service and maintenence on my vehicle or house in a very long time. I do not even have a credit card because I save so much money doing things myself that I find no need to charge the cost of an expensive repair or upgrade. People are actually fooled into thinking they can not work on their own automobile, and house. Anybody can do these repairs with schematics and directions on the Internet. One just has to be willing to do it and have some tools.
I have a Lexus and do all the maintenance myself. NEVER go near the dealer.
One repair in 21 years....fuel pulse damper $20 and 20 min repair (I'm slow).
@@indridcold8433 we must be related. That's exactly they way I operate. I use to say I can pay someone to mess it up or I could mess up three times and it'd be cheaper and I learned something. The internet is a wealth of information for someone willing to try to do it themselves.
I agree with you but if the car has design issues, no amount of personal care and love will cure it. I'm talking about my Odyssey with VCM engine.
Driving the vehicle gently until its fully warmed up is crucial and many people just don't have the patience for this.
This great advice. Something I tell anyone that ask how to prolong their cars life. I tell them you wouldn’t wake up and get out of the bed and sprint down the street to get your coffee.
@@alexgrindnshine2522 but the car companies themselves say you dont have to do this...who am i supposed to believE
@@andy_182car companies say that warming your engine while idle isn’t needed, you can immediately start driving but slowly until the car engine is in working temperature which what the op is saying here
Man this is sooooooo true! And for me it's just respecting the machine. NOTHING just gets up and runs optimally from a cold start. Not even machines. Especially when it's cold
The oil properties don't lubricate well until the oil is at operating temp or approaching operating temp. Its always good to warm up your vehicle, if you want it to last. The reason why they say that is because of pollution.
I have a 96 civic and it just hit 380k miles! Every weekend I’m doing preventative maintenance on it. I take things apart and test certain parts to determine if they need replacing or just simply checking the life of parts. My two main things on keeping an engine healthy is proper lubrications and the cooling system. Those are my two majors to keep an eye out on.
Every weekend?
@@enricopallazzo3244 just about every weekend because I work in the city. My job is about an hour and half away, therefore it is crucial for me to keep up with the maintenance and to check for any faulty parts. I would hate to be stranded far away from home. Yes, I do have AAA but in reality I wouldn’t want to use it. I’m my case, it’s essential to inspect my car every weekend. Your situation could be different if you commute time isn’t much. Normally, people should inspect their vehicles at least once a month.
@@TheEdgar707 Cool, well done sir.
I like your preventative inspections and maintenance. I do that as well but I should increase the frequency. I do it, may be once in 3 months. I drive about and hour and a half each way. that is about 3 hours a day. so, what you do makes a lot of sense to me. taking care of it is better than waiting to be broken on the road.
What specifically do you do every weekend? What parts do you check? Thanks.
I’m glad you said to fill the oil filter before hand. I’ve always done this and people tell me it’s a pointless. Just always thought putting something dry that is supposed to stay wet on a car isn’t a good idea, I’m glad I’ve done it. Thanks!
just like a vagina. A little spit or ky lube mevwr hurt nobody. Gotta keep the good stuff moiat and lubed up for qll the parts to function.
I've started filling it until it soaks up and gets full saturation then install it cuz it's horizontal
This has been proven in engine tests here on TH-cam. Not filling the filter incurs a wear penalty on first startup.
You are wrong because you don't have a celica or 50+ years experience.
Dang! I don't have a Celica either. Sorry for wasting your air, guys.
I have 1000 years exprience and own 100 toyota celicas i can take miles off cars by just looking at them
@@badhorse1640 cue the sound of crickets.
@@csn6234*cricket* *noises*
@@badhorse1640 Aw. Did I hurt your feelings? You can do better than that, buddy.
First tip. Don’t start the engine. It will last for ever
Me doing Scotty Smile 😅🤣🤣
Im sorry to ruin your joke(?) If you dont start your engine in a long time the pistons will rust to the cylinder. Having this problem on my fiat 850 );
@@juippi420 yeah 😅☺️ Scotty will tell you Fiat is a piece of junk too 😅😅😅
Forgot to include the picture of a horse with a big smile
It actually wont. The engine will seize up.
SHIFTY poor engine 🤣😂🤣😂👍
Great tips. A few basic things I'd like to add in. Don't leave your car idling from long periods of time. I see soooo many people just carelessly leaving their car running for 10, 15, 20+ mins because it's "easier" to just get back in and go. And they do this in the middle of a hot summer too! Also, drive your car gently (grandmother-ish) until your car is at full operating temp unless you absolutely have to gun it for safety reasons. I can only imagine how man engines would last longer and without issues if people used more damn common sense!!
No wonder my car broke down i left it at idle for 24hrs strait
I never warmed up the car in idle in winter as recommended by manufacturers because of air quality concerns. I was proved right in time when manufacturers recommended start and drive after the 90's. Oil change interval recommendations are conservative and designed to keep the dealers in money.
I had to leave mine idling for years. I would run into the store and grab what I needed, then bought it and went on. At home I would shut it off, or if it was a long stop. It took some years to figure out the problem. The shop said they could not figure out a "part time" problem. It turned out to be a problem with the security system, that wouldn't let it start. It was called a Pass-Lock.
According to what I've seen, idling incurs about 25 miles of wear per hour.
Just no reason to do it. Shut it off and save fuel. You're not saving anything by letting it run, you're only costing yourself. Look at Prius and other hybrids today. They shut off constantly when the engine isn't needed.
Great video. Your videos are most helpful. Thank you.
The Toyota dealer charged $940.00 to change the timing belt, water pump, coolant, and drive belt. But since my 4.7 liter engine us is an interference engine and had not been changed since the truck was new, I decided it was the safe thing to do. The tundra SR5 truck had 77272 miles on it when I purchased it. According to the truck manual I found in the glove box, the timing belt should be changed every 84 months.
I'm going to attempt to change the transmission fluid myself. The dealer wants $150.00 just to do a drain and refill. I changed the oil and filter myself and that went well. I used a Wix filter and synthetic oil. I also changed the air filter. This truck had not been driven much in the last six years. I purchased it from my 90 year-old father-in-law who purchased it new in 2003. I am changing all the fluids. Trying to figure out what kind of differential it has. No tag on it. If anyone knows how to tell which one it has, I would appreciate the help.
Update, I was able to change the transmission fluid myself. I changed it three times with 50 to 100 miles between the first and second change. I calculated that changed out 90 percent of the old fluid, based on volumes. I also changed the rear differential fluid myself.
I changed the spark plugs myself as well.
Unless you town heavy stuff, it leaks, or it's dark, no need to bother changing differential oil.
All good stuff Chris. My addition: If you have a truck with an automatic transmission and particularly if you tow, install a finned, cast aluminum oil pan on it. It can add 1,2,or even 3 extra quarts of capacity, the fins in the casting help cool the oil and most important, your oil pan will go from the weakest part of your transmission case to the strongest. Stiffening the case helps protect the trans from torque stresses. Another bonus is they usually have a drain plug, self explanatory if you've ever changed a trans filter on a stock pan without one. Maybe you'll do it more often that way.
Checking your oil level regularly is also important. I've had several cars that lose oil very slowly over the course of a change, and it's good to keep on top of it and confirm a larger problem is not going on.
I remember as a kid that my dad and all my freinds dads had their own special place under the hood where they stashed their oil checking rag!
Shame so many cars are removing dip sticks
The gm engines with active fuel management use about a quart between oil changes, or my 2010
Silverado with the 5.3 did, and it did it from new…
I only use quality eBay parts.
I know this is a joke but there are some people that do sell OEM part tho they are either higher in price or just right. Then you have aftermarket trash and what not.....classic ebay 😉
Bruh Iv'e been using Ebay parts for ages and have no complaints, plus it cost one third of most oem parts.
i bought genuine MAF sensor from ebay, my MPG actually improved slightly
Use say they are hit or miss with the after market.
Agreed! You can extend that way of thinking with many aspects of life. That's why I only date honest and marriage quality hookers that are virgins.
400,000 miles on my 03 Grand Marquis. Keep the engine oil full and change it every 10,000 miles or less and full synthetic engine oil. Drop the transmission pan and a new filter every 50,000 miles. 400,000 miles and only 1 intake manifold and 1 timing set as precaution.
Great video!!!
What mileage did you change your timing chain?
@@jaymitchell955
I've done a timing set at 105,000 and I've pushed them to 225,000 miles.
On a Lincoln Town Car, Grand Marquis, or Crown Victoria 2000 down to 1992 (91 Town Car), these timing sets last 350,000-400,000 miles if the car has had good engine oil changes. These have metal timing tensioners and the chain guides have metal spines supporting them.
2001, 02, 03, 04, 05, 06, 07, 08, 09, 10, 11 will need changed immediately if you hear grinding or popping from the front of the engine.
Otherwise if the 01-11 has had good oil changes, you'll be safe till 200,000 miles, but do it sooner if you hear grinding or rubbing from the front of the engine, or if you start to notice little ground up pieces of metal and plastic in the used engine oil.
On the early 4.6 engines you could easily get by with going 400,000 miles on a timing set, but on the 01+, I'd start getting nervous around 200,000 miles with 10-13 years of age. Age makes these brittle.
In other words you could have a 2011 right now with 423,659 miles and that timing set would still be OK as long as they use full synthetic engine oil and changed it every six to eight thousand miles.
Now on 2003+, if you hear a loud clatter sound on cold start up that goes away in 1 to 2 seconds, that's due to the plastic timing chain tensioner's spring getting weak with age. This is the sound of the timing chain slapping the chain guide on the driver's side until oil pressure builds up and presses against the timing tensioner and makes the chain tight.
The solution is to buy a new timing set and only buy the ones with a metal tensions, because they have a little ratcheting arm that keeps the chain of tight in the absence of oil pressure, so when you start up the car the chain is already tight and will not slap around and bust the guides.
Early release 03 Town Cars, Crown Victorias, and Grand Marquis with the 4.6 engine that have the white X with two or three dots above the X means that this car already has metal tensioners installed under a silent recall when these cars were new.
These markings are on the front of the valve covers on both sides.
Cars with the metal tensioners will usually last 350,000-400,000 miles before you need to do the timing set, but this is assuming proper oil changes.
Remember these are interference engines and if that timing chain on either side jumps more than two teeth, you could start to run into damage to the engine.
Also if your car has been severely overheated you might consider doing a timing set because that will make the nylon timing chain guides and tensioner arms very brittle and prone to cracking and breaking.
The risk that you run by not doing the timing chain set every 200,000 miles or so is that the chain guides can crack and pieces of them can fall off and clogged up the oil pump pickup screen, also the chain can slap around and be loose and jumped a tooth or two or three on a crankshaft or camshaft sprocket and destroy the engine.
I'd do it at 200,000 miles if the inside of the engine looks very clean when you remove the oil filler cap and look down on top of the engine head.
I have seen multiple of these engines destroyed around a 170,000 mile mark from it jumping time, but these were very dirty engines and obviously 10 to 20 thousand miles on the engine oil and the car had clearly been ran low on oil many times.
If you do have the cold startup clatter that goes away after about 2 seconds, and you notice that sound has changed or went away, then I would do the timing set immediately. This could indicate that the timing chain guide on the driver side of the engine pulley broke and fell.
On my Panther cars, I usually change the timing sets before 200,000 miles mostly because I get tired of hearing it clatter when I start the engine. Once you switch over to the metal tensioners with the little ratcheting arm that keeps a chain tight in the absence of oil pressure, that startup clatter will never happen again.
Thank you very much !
Panther platform....no expiration date on these cars. Born to roll
Freddy Hollingsworth wow a wealth of information! I wish I could be as knowledgeable so I know when something might be wrong.
You’re so awkward yet I find your jokes absolutely hilarious. I subscribed for this reason alone.
I drive Camry 1995 about to hit 300000 miles
😭😭
That's what she said
Flushing your transmission , I'm on the fence about that one. I have a friend who is an engineer from Japan and he and I was discussing transmissions and he said never flush your transmission just drop the fluid and replace.
Scotty Kilmer said the same thing. Furthermore, he said that if you have more that 90K with the same fluid, then just keep it in. My BMW shop told me the same thing.
@@SBha30 I just flushed the transmission fluid on my 2001 Toyota Camry V6 with 103k miles 4 days ago. No problem what so ever. The service was done at a Toyota dealer. My friend is a mechanic and he says it's really depend on individual manufacture. Some transmission fluid can last longer than the others, and you should stick with the right fluid that was original. He wouldn't flush a transmission fluid at 200k+ miles if it haven't been flushed before.
@@SBha30 I flushed my Camry at 114k and nothing serious happened. But when it reached 175k, I drained and refilled once and then after few hundred miles, dropped the pan and changed ATF fluid and filter. Since then I have been draining and refilling with 2.5 quarts every 12k and transmission doesn't kick anymore. I think the best thing to do is keep up draining and refilling ATF fluid regularly after first 50k if you can afford.
The Engenieer should go back to school i think..Flush cause no wrong and if the transmission is in such a bad state that a flush, who will clean excessive dirt will cause leak and failure.. then the issue is the transmission bad state and not the flush.
I heard the same from family members. Drain and fill is better than flushing. Apparently the cleaners that is used to flush it damages the seals.
Great video! Would like to add, allowing your car to gradually increase peed when green light changes. When changing from park to drive, most folks ram it back and forth from reverse to drive, or from park to drive. Gently moving the shifter is much better for the car. Also, when making turns take your foot off the brakes, if you slow down before the turn can be made with out pressing onto the brakes. And very important don't allow for the car to reach almost empty tank.
Great maintenance advice to make your vehicle last longer. About 20yrs ago, the thermostat failed on my mom's car, causing $800 in engine damage. That thermostat cost like $10. If only we knew back then!
I'd also like to add that in addition to this maintenance advice, if you want your car to last as long as possible, drive it with care. Don't be heavy on the throttle. Jackrabbit starts are bad for your engine, transmission, and MPGs. Dont accelerate harder than necessary. The higher you're revving your engine, the more stress on your engine AND transmission. In other words, treat your car respectfully, maintain it properly and it should last a long time.
Tell that to my Tacoma I floor it off the line and I have 436k miles on her. I beat the hell out of trucks transmission I treat her like a rally truck and she still going hard
What about vtec tho? Hahah
@@ncrtransport5993 it'd last even longer if you drove it respectable.
@@lilbbbbbbb Honda should learn about torque.
@@palebeachbum umm ok lol? And I should become an engineer don't we all need to learn something
I bought a Chevy, kept is maintained, it broke down with a tittle over 100K miles. I bought a Toyota, no issues so far. Scotty was right!
Everyone else knows.
" You can keep an eye on that hole" "Thats what she said"😂 Wtf
I was wondering how long before I saw a comment on that🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂
😂 jiji
Michael Scott approves!
Lack of lubrication!!!
Vete ala verga weyyyy jajajajaj
I'd add to points: (A) Check oil level at least monthly or weekly if you drive lots of hiway miles, oil use increases on hiways and oil level can drop lots before your next oil change! (B) Don't beat up your engine! It will last longer if you don't flog it!
Why would highway miles increase oil consumption? That makes absolutely no sense at all. Where are you getting your information from?
@@GoingGoneGalt Based on experience on several cars oil consumption would be more noticeable on several long drives. On modern engines, a lot of vacuum is used to reduce sludge in the engine by sucking up hot oil vapor and burning it before it can condense again. As an add-on some folks use 'catch cans' to catch oil vapor before it reaches the throttle body.
@@mmpiforall5913 Anecdotal observation with zero data to back it up is worth as much as a congressmans promises. Highway miles with lower average RPM, temperature, and chamber pressure are always going to use less of everything.
Highway driving with higher, longer sustained rpm and miles accumulated more quickly, will burn more oil. You should definitely check it more often. Plus, you do not know, if you do not check it. It’s drivers responsibility to check fluids and tires regularly.
@@davidl766 Kiddo, I would bet that I have been driving and keeping my cars going for far longer than you have been alive. Show me one bit of data that supports your claim. One. Anywhere. And what are you driving that is drinking so much oil that you can tell where it goes?? My road warrior Civic with over a quarter million miles on the clock doesn't consume a quart in 20,000 miles. In the desert, often in 110+ degree heat. Going over a 3000' mountain climb every day. Twice.
Drive your car nicely and it will last longer. If you race between traffic lights your car will die sooner even if you service on time!
Thats true. The key to having your engine last is to not give it a lot of torque while driving. Don't drive it like your going to the races.
@@jopisano67 😬
All I say to those who drive fast between lights is... I will meet you at the next one. 😃
@@jopisano67 Depends. Diesel engines should get to use the torque. Its also smart to run yhem on high RPM a couple of times to regen the DPF (if it has one)
That statement is not proven.Drive your car to sluggish and it won't last long either.Engines need to be put under pressure once in a while.Obviously after warm up.
Even if your oil filter goes in sideways, you should still put enough oil in it so the filtering material inside becomes fully saturated with oil. It'll reduce the amount of time it takes for the oil to get through the filter and up into the engine once you start it for the first time after the oil change.
That is what I do.. soak the filter material and even for a side-mounted filter, you can put some in the bottom if you're quick enough getting it on.
“That’s what she said” gets you the subscribe!
Great tips. A few basic things I'd like to add in. Don't leave your car idling from long periods of time. I see soooo many people just carelessly leaving their car running for 10, 15, 20+ mins because it's "easier" to just get back in and go. And they do this in the middle of a hot summer too! Also, drive your car gently until your car is at full operating temp if at all possible. I can only imagine how many engines would last longer and remain problem free if people did the most basic stuff such as this!!
What happens when the car idles for too long?
@@rihasanatrofolo2472it starts to overheat cuz it's only cooled by the radiator fan
Look up what happens if you idle too much plus it wastes gas
A startup uses 7 seconds of idle time fuel, so if you're sitting more than a minute just turn off the car
I almost always avoid drive thrus unless I'm the only one in line or 1 person in front
@@tomtemple69 That sounds extreme. I keep my car running for example when we'r eating and it's cold outside. Never had an issue yet. Is it impending doom?
@@rihasanatrofolo2472 depends on how long you plan on keeping your car working in good condition, you shouldn't idle very often and no more than like 1 minute
after 7 seconds of idling, you use more fuel than it takes to start a car, the engine isn't at optimal temperature for combustion, leading to incomplete combustion and carbon build up in the engine
if u plan on keeping your car longer than like 150k miles, you should minimize idling, plus its just wasted gas
when it's cold outside, you only need to warmup for like a minute, modern synthetic oil still performs good enough at low temperature, it just needs to be warmed up if you're gonna be revving it high and giving it a lot of throttle
@@tomtemple69 cheers
Something simple I always do is allow the car to idle for 15-30 seconds before driving after starting the car to allow all your fluids to flow and circulate.
I don't know if it makes any difference but I dont have many issues
Makes good sense.
Makes GREAT sense 👍🏽
Great video Dude!
My 2001 F150 Supercrew 5.4 just turned 363,000 miles.
From the water pump to the Differential the parts are all original.
Do these tips and you will hopefully be driving your vehicle for a long time.
Godspeed everyone. 🙂
I live down south and remove the thermostats from my vehicles. I also use synthetic oil and transmission fluid. I have over 200 thousand miles on my vehicles and they burn no oil between oil changes every 3000 miles. If you live up north where you need a heater in the winter, you can still remove the thermostat in the warmer months. It will make your engine and transmission last a long time by running cooler and getting good lubrication from the synthetic oil.
Use synthetic oil in standard & auto Trans too (will help standard shift trans shift better too!), maybe even an inline filter on auto trans. I like to use redline or other brand coolant additive esp in summer, turbo cars love it. Use quality oil filters that have a good check valve in them to trap oil on shutdown, then a full filter will lube engine on startup. I like Tufoil oil additive, used it for many years...It holds guinness world book of record as the slickest substance known to man...has 11 International patents, used by NASA too. I dont know if they still sell those radiator filters anymore but they help to keep crap clogging up coolant system
I am the Scoty Kilmer of Amsoil,,....use it and it will make it last and run much better ...OK a suggestion abut the filter that fits sideways (horizontal) ,,,Just pour enough in oil in the filter wet and prime the filter media because a dry filter soaks up right much oil ,no worries about spilling,, and that will allow the filter to prime pretty fast and as you say ,dont put on a dry filter ..
Thank you for the advice on that 1 of you have to be very careful when changing the transmission fluid if your transmission fluid is black leave it the hell alone if you take that black dirty fluid out and put new fluid in it can cause your transmission to slip so you have to be careful with that if your transmission fluid is Brown you can still change it and not slipping or acting up but be careful with that kind of stuff so and you don't want to take all of it out because if you do a flush sometimes the flush can push through the transmission and cause problems as well The only time you can really mess around with a flush is if you're like you got a newer car you can do that but if you have black or dirty fluid you don't want to flush that Through your transmission
Quick tip for priming the oil filter, most modern engines have what's called a deflood where if you hold the pedal all the way down while cranking it will disable the fuel injectors in case the engine is flooded. Just make sure to test it before the oil change as I had one car that did not cooperate and nothing is more horrible than a 5k rpm dry start with no oil pressure 😑😑
Seems like a terrible idea unless you are 100% sure that’s how your car works
They last few vehicles I own have do this and they all mention it in their owner manuals under "starting a flooded engine"
timing belt! good advice, I bought a toyota landcruiser with no service history and when the radiator needed replacing, I dived in and did the water pump, thermostat, timing belt, cam seals, and then the radiator!
My dad bought a 00 frontier (i was 9 at that time and now 28) and now I own that truck with 365k. Transmission fluid has never been change on it and still running strong. I love that truck. Takes me where ever I tell it to go and I have for faith in it than any other car I've owned. But that's just me.
Weird flex but okay
cool....
The fluid will be varnish by now.
I went through this years ago before I understood that it's a regular maintenance item.
The fluid eventually turned "light brown" and "stinky". Then I found I had to push the pedal further down to keep up with traffic (sucking up fuel faster).
Took it to a transmission shop for "basic service"
Two days later it bogged right out to where I had to really step on it to move.
Ended up having to replace with a rebuilt one.
The transmission mechanic explained that the fluid is not "meant for the life of the vehicle. It must be changed every (if I remember correctly, 20,000Km) or it turns into varnish and the parts wear out quickly after that.
Won't matter anymore... you can put Royal gold level ten star grade trans fluid, the clutches are shot it's game over.
Good maintenance begin at "50,000" not "200,000".
Also how you drive it has equal effect.
I bought a truck that was owned by a corporation. The driver beat on it. Stomp on the pedal get the wheels spinning kinda thing.
The trans wasn't burnt brown it was still red and decent but the damages made it so it was shot by 225,000km. Engine still perfect but $5,000 trans garbage. Truck is finished, scrap.
@@RetroCaptain you made the mistake of taking it to a mechanic
Everything was working fine till you took it in😭😭
-oil filter filled with oil
-replace timing belt/tensioner/idler pulley (interference)
-replace water pump/thermostat/radiator cap
-transmission fluid flush, filter changed, add separate oil cooler
oem parts on above
The oil filter trick was a mind blow for me. I can't believe I didn't think of that!! Thank you!
As someone with 284,000 original miles, I'm still on my original coolant cap and have no issues. I completely disagree with the flush. Everybody knows that's exactly what destroys a high mileage transmission. Just make sure to routinely drain and fill the ATF to prevent the fluid from getting too dark and dirty. Also, I think it's very important to go easy on the gas pedal. First, drive easy until the engine is warmed up. Even after that, it's not good for your transmission by giving it a bunch of gas while it tries to shift at the same time. Ease off the gas for a brief moment when it goes to shift. It's especially easy to do this in a car with a slap-stick/paddle shifter.
I've heard not to flush your transmission. I can start to slip and fail.
@@charlesbosse9669 Yeah I’ve heard the same especially if your car has done high mileage. I think Scotty Kilmer mentioned it as well.
I totally agree with your ideas.
Drive like a grandpa helps.
I add Lucas Oil Stabilizer to oil and rear ends. Super clingy...never a dry bearing.
Chino Moreno a mechanic when not touring and giving us wee peasants car advice that actually works. What a time to be alive.
A quick note -- if you can prefill your oil filter, it is best to do it, wait and let the oil soak into the media, fill it again, wait until the oil soaks into the media... until it actually levels out where you want it. This might take a couple minutes, but it will optimize the oil in the filter, which is the entire point of doing this! A quick fill and install might leave the filter about half empty, or even more empty.
I do this. After I pull the drain plug, next I write the mileage on the filter with a paint pen then turn it upside down/opening up in the box. I will fill it and let soak while removing old filter. I'll do the other stuff needed in oil change. I will fill a 2nd time before installing. Doesnt take much extra time.
Really overthinking it
It will get oil in it soon enough
I have been changing my own oil for 35 years. Never once have I prefilled a filter. Never once have I burned up an engine.
@@GoingGoneGalt IOW, this may well be overkill, especially in well maintained vehicles. Point taken. Theoretically, it is best, but might not make a significant difference. There are no studies to show when it might matter and when it might not matter. In theory, in some cases, it might matter.
It might only help assuage one’s OCD, too. lol
This is what I do
1) change fluids at regular schedule
2.) Use only oem parts if possible
3.) Fix small things before it gets big. Listen to any unusual noise.
4.) Dont abuse it. And pay attention to the guages while driving.
5.) If you have a garage, I open the hood after a trip to cool down the engine bay this prevents hoses and wire insulators from cracking due to heat on hot summer days.
Your 5th point is one important advantage of having a garage 😊
Pt. #5 is la great idea---never thought of that but I'm going to start that practice!
@@mikejohn0088😂
Good video, is basically follow the manufacture maintenance schedule witch most people dont. I found people across internet very concern about maintenance of the car and others who said I use the cheapest oil you can find in Walmart and they blame the car later on.
Thank you for the video.
THATS WHAT SHE SAID
3:29
That was the moment I pressed like.
Toni Martinovic 😂😂😭😭hahah
lol same. i chuckled.
I wondered...
I appreciate that you don't screech at your subscribers.
Scotty - water pump weep hole is there to weep. Don’t change if it’s only weeping slightly coz that’s what it’s supposed to do.
Exactly what I was thinking, just watched that video as well...the weeping is to keep the seal lubricated...lol, this guy was off on that comment
For my '97 Camry with 160k miles, every oil change (full syn about every 5k) I also use a suction pump to pull as much trans fluid as possible out of dip stick tube. I then replace it with an equivalent amount of fresh tf, usually about 2 qt. This is equal to a complete fluid replacement every 20-25k miles. The whole process only takes a few minutes. When I got the car it shifted a bit hard, but now shifts are silky smooth and barely noticeable.
How is your camry going? Still got it? My 2000 camry v6 is up to 240km and i want to get rid of ot but it wont die ahah
@@callanbrown7979 Unfortunately the Camry was attacked in a road rage incident by a deer (I'm in WI) and declared totaled by the insurance. It had 180,000 miles on it, ran perfect and everything worked. But the insurance company totaled it out for a pretty fair price for a model year that was 25 years old at the time. I replaced it with a 2011 Honda CR-V with 106,000 miles and in very good shape which I think is also a great vehicle and a bit more practical due to it's size, rear hatch and AWD.
TOYOTA #1
Get a transmission cooler even if you do not tow anything. Also, use the same OEM oil and Transmission fluid that came in the car. I just go to the dealer. They charge less than the oil change places anyway. If you live in a colder climate and have a block heater, use it even if it is not very cold. I plug my vehicle in once it gets to below freezing.
My Pontiac Bonneville with a 3800 was the best motor I ever had in a car. I also filled the new oil filter before putting it on. Did oil changes myself every 5000kms. Engine had well over 300K before the body and sensors made me scrap it. Take care of your stuff and your stuff will take care of you!
Ok all your other 4 tips are handy and helpful but look when it comes to empty oil filters on a oil change. The old oil that was drained still has remaining oil around the engine especially on the top camshaft, valves and piston rings. It's not like it's completely bone dry after its drained and filled again. It will only take a few seconds until its full again and pumping the whole system. Never have I heard new empty oil filters from start up can cause engine wear. But i'll still keep that theory in mind.
5:06 - A lot of modern cars do not specify any interval for changing transmission fluid, so the big recommendation there should be - do it anyway. Modern synthetic transmission fluid is fine for probably 150K, but if you plan on driving your car longer than that you should probably change and flush at 60-100K.
NEVER FLUSH UNLESS YOU KNOW THAT CAR'S HISTORY AND YOU HAVE ALWAYS FLUSHED EVERY 40K MILES OR SO.
If you don't know the history and the car is high mileage have the pan dropped and DRAINED (not flushed) and have the filter replaced.
Any reliable transmission shop will tell you this.
Flushing can destroy the transmission IF it's high mileage and has been not well maintained with fluid changes.
@@mikejohn0088 Yes. This stood out to me as well. I find it shocking that the author of the video mentions Scotty Kilmer yet encourages full transmission flushes. Scotty says to drain and fill every 35K or so.
@@mikejohn0088Very GOOD advice !!! Thank you.
Very refreshing to see talk regarding the transmission. So much is said about engine oil and not enough on transmission fluid, not to mention cooling i find. You have won me as a subscriber. Good Job.
Lol, you start talking about vehicles with transmission problems then immediately show a Dodge Ram.
Myles Mastersen I thought of that too! 😂
Because dodges are all motor. And no tranny
Loll
@@AlphaFlight yea that's true all they have is hemi lol
@@AlphaFlight good engine and garbage everything else
The original water pump for my car has plastic vanes - that's why I chose an aftermarket one with a metal impeller. With the version with a plastic impeller, there is sometimes a problem that it becomes loose, starts to slip and stops pumping coolant.
Indeed. OEM parts are not necessarily better to use. Fel-Pro, for example, makes far better gaskets than the originals used by a lot of car manufacturers.
Sold my 98 Camry to my neighbor. It had 400k on it.
Fluid changes, ON SCHEDULE, make all the difference.
Buying a Toyota is still the best first step...
Toyota has made fools of every other car manufacturer...in history.
"Exactly!" People will be buying four and five cars, ..by the time my Prius ever kicks the bucket! LMAO
Or any other Japanese car mostly 1990's
LunaticRed EyeS88 na. just dont go with modern nissans..effn trashhhh. i dont know what happened to them.
@@mobius-1503 They merged with Renault some time ago that's why
LunaticRed EyeS88 ahhh. good to know thanks..they used to be supperb..we had a 91 300zx forever. manual. never smoked. timing belt was a pain but damn that engine. sounded like a little tank i loved it. never failed us. even that horrendous digital cluster gauge tryna look all futuristic just always worked. pwr windows never broke 285k miles...then way later. i decided to get a sentra se-r. lol. biggest mistake ever. went to the junk yart at 127k...
My uncle have a BMW 5series with 1.2million KM,no dents and still running like a dream
Too much heat is what kills your engine
David Handshoe hellyea
And it won't run right without enouph heat
I live in 110+ weather -_- (Phoenix)
VISIONARY TV he means while it’s using the engine. Temps probably get over 300 or something
Heat will kill an engine for sure,but most of them die from dirt,,,change you oil regularly and don't beat the crap out of it and any modern engine will last
Surprisingly enough the only car I was able to make it to the 400k is the unreliable BMW 325 with the M50 engine...I pretty much did mostly what you showed in the video, except taking the fuel relay after an oil change :)
Thanks, you do easy to watch and informative videos. A friend has a 2016 Mazda6 2.5 litre. The dealer was adamant the automatic transmission required no servicing which appears to be a marketing ploy to reduce apparent ownership costs. However everywhere else we researched recommended servicing any auto transmission every 60,000km or so. One in particular by Mechanical Engineer, Auto Journo, and TH-camr John Cadogan went into the chemistry of heat and fluid breakdown well. We went with the service, as the old mechanics saying goes, 'oil is cheaper than parts'. Another thing I learnt is to check the coolant level in the radiator rather than in the overflow reservoir. A friend had a Toyota 3 litre diesel which cooked because the cap had failed but there was still coolant in the reservoir and that was what he was checking.
I have been driving A 1999 Chevy prizm with 320K miles on original engine and clutch. I have changed oil every 5K miles using regular oil and fram filters.
...nice...synthetic oil is only for fewer oil changes...reg oil prtects jus as good..but gotta change it more often!
I'll disagree. Regular oil sludges up an engine more and on a highmileage car this can be fatal eventually. But your right about changing it less frequently.
@@muwahh98why do they make conventional oil then..whats the point?
@@edubb2491 half the price twice the oil changes. Idk ? For people who enjoy changing oil ?
synthetic also doesnt break down as fast, protecting more , longer. conventional oil is outdated. no reason to but it rly, unless ur in a tight spot
Wish I had known these things when I had my old 1999 Toyota Tacoma 2wd regular cab truck. I loved that truck! The engine finally gave up at 504,000 miles. Who knows how long it would have lasted if I had seen this video15 years ago.
Don't beat yourself up when we were young we all beat up our vehicles to some extent we all have 20/20 vision in hindsight don't we. Heck I like you wish I had done the same with my first car. We live and learn.
504,000 is extremely impressive. Scotty Kilmer says your truck could last forever because of it being a Toyota with a dead reliable engine.
We were the only owner of a mercedes w210 2001, OM612 diesel engine with original internals and it ran perfectly fine until we had to take it to the junkyard because of rust on the frame at 970 000km's (a bit over 600k miles). The key is to keep it well maintained.
My GM 2.4 LD9 lasted 300k miles. I think it may just needed a head gasket (not sure, it suddenly lost compresion) but it was actually easier to swap with a lower mileage engine. I followed GM's oil life monitor so I think it may have lasted longer if I changed oil at 5k intervals instead of going 8k+ like the oil life told me.
You r absolutely right...here in india too,car companies say that eng.oil lasts fr 15000 kms..bur really its wrong as per all our experience...after all experience n experimenting are more 😂😂😂😂"TRUER"than mere sugfestions....we must rely on live war experience..not Pubjy games on phone..😂😂😂
“That’s what she said” good one
The Scotty pic was the sprinkles on top lol
I was hoping for a female to say that.
that totally caught me off guard😂
Thank you. Your stand up comedy is just as good as your teaching. Talk about multi talented.
My 2005 Ford Focus is reaching 300K with the original engine. The Steel Drive Train/Timing Belt probably helps. Also I believe it being the more sturdy built "Special Edition" probably helps too. Plus I service everything when it needs to be serviced and use only Full Synthetic Fluids.
“Only use OEM parts”.
Me, a Saab owner: 😨
The struggle is real
Lmao 😂 oem Saab parts are still available haha, they will be for decades more
My 2004 Honda Civic just hit 300k miles... In its life time I rebuilt the transmission replaced the timing belt replaced the water pump thermostat and tires and brakes and oh I forgot replaced the computer too.. runs great m very happy
timing belts suck chains are where its at
Gear gang wya
@@guyanello7201 the race track nyooom
#cumminsbaby
Lol no
Gears were best but you are to young to know.
I was always told,When changing automatic transmission fluid never do a “FLUSH” always do an exchange.
Especially if the transmission fluid hasn’t been changed for a very long period of time. This is from a automatic transmission specialist who is been in business in my local town for over 40 years and does nothing but automatic transmissions.
Just google, transmission flush or transmission exchange when changing the automatic transmission fluid. Also a VERY, important note, always put in the manufacturers specification for transmission fluid. Because all transmission fluid it’s not equal like the $.50 a quart Walmart transmission fluid. You will have catastrophic automatic transmission failure if you do not put in the manufacturers specifications for transmission fluid.
Mainly because some fluid that sits in the housing contains clutch materials that have been worn off and is designed to "re-use" or more correctly make use of manufacturers and designers knowing these aspects. When the fluid is pressurized the clutch bits become "useful". When you remove All fluids you remove those materials and which is why Many people have trans issues after a power flush.
Always use the manufacturer's specified transmission fluid.
I can attest to that because I didn't, and now my truck is up on blocks until I have time (and the money) to yank the transmission and repair it.
50 cents a quart, eh. You are using windshield washing fluid, sucker.
@@garymiller2056 Lol if it sounds too good to be true it probably is, anything with supposed lubricating quality that is that cheap would leave me highly concerned.
Most manufacturers do not recommend a flush. Even if some dealerships offer it. I think it says something that they'd rather you drain and fill at the specified intervals than flush.
Love it. Just crossed over 300 miles w Honda Pilot. Great engine and indestructible. Switching to Synthetic.
Take good care of that trans.!
I have an Amsoil double oil filter which is a full flow and a by-pass filter and I use Amsoil synthetic engine oil. I also installed a transmission oil cooler because the lines going through the radiator do not cool the tranny fluid like a separate oil cooler; and I use Amsoil synthetic transmission fluid.
The trans cooler inside the radiator is more than sufficient at cooling your trans ask me how I know
A bit of overkill, but ok🤷🏽♂️
TIP 6 - If you live where they salt the roads you need to RUST PROOF your vehicle or the body will DISINTEGRATE around your perfectly maintained mechanical components. Krown FTW.
Absolutely. In the summertime, get under that thing and inspect for rust on critical components. When you find rust, remove it with wire brush and then spray the heck out of it with rust reformer. Do this every summer. If you are talking about z-bart, etc, don't do it, that stuff is like tar and can trap water underneath it.
ziebart is garbage, like Brad Waite said it'll trap moisture and some salt and your car will rust from the inside out. Plus a lot of ziebart techs don't mask or tape anything off when they spray the tar on and you'll have abs, o2 sensor connectors and other components bombed with the tar.
Krown For The Win
Never spray that stuff on the undercarriage. It traps moisture. May as well just pressure wash it and add a sacrificial anode like zinc
Did I mention Krown?
On an older car, 2005 Dodge Caravan (3.3 150,000+ mi) it calls for conventional 5w20. Runs fine, no leaks, no burn, she hardly consumes any oil at all. I'll stay with conventional 5/20. And as far as a trans. flush, a Dodge Master Mechanic said to leave it alone. That particular 4spd trans in that model year and others b4 and after were not well made and a flush will only serve to screw it up. I do the regular maintenance, keep fluid levels up and we're good. 👍😉
Three easy steps!! Change your oil at minimum every 6 months and drive slowly. Keep your fluids topped off. And last drive slow and watch your gauges.
Min. of 6 months is total over kill --- change the oil every 4k-5k miles religiously and use high mileage oil after 75k miles.
If I dont use the oem part, I use use the brand that makes it for tje manufacture, its the same exact part just not over priced due to the car manufacture emblem on it👍
Smart Idea to find out who actually makes oem parts.
Exactly what I do! And if I cannot find the supplier’s part, I’ll usually go with Dorman or another OEM supplier.
Those are OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) parts.
@@Fifthcell dorman is not high quality
Bryan Hensley I’ve been reading around and it turns out that many people have bad luck with Dorman parts... I personally have never had any problem with Dorman’s parts... they’ve always been good to me.
Mechanic for 58 yrs( few more than scotty) listen to this guy,,every thing be said is 100% true
The stock heat exchanger for the transmission may be more for getting the temps up to operating temp and keeping them within the range rather than cooling the transmission for heavy use.
That's what my mechanic told me when I mentioned wanting to install a towing cooler.
"You can't bypass the factory part. Have to put the cooler in circuit after it passes through the radiator, or it won't reach initial operating temperature".
He said you can run it "too cold". We get below freezing temperatures in winter here. I suppose in Jamaica or Dubai, hot climates it wouldn't matter.
Excellent advice. I wish I would have used Synthetic Oil from the moment I bought my 2003 Mazda Protege 5 brand new. However, I started at 100,000miles and now I have 198,300. I changed my timing belt always at 60,000miles, but I don't know if my mechanic changed the other parts you said we should (Tensioner, Idler pulley).
My 1994 Caprice Classic lasted 350,243 Miles before the Wire harness Shorted out. The Engine and Transmission were Factory Stock too. Ran Strong too
Every thing you said is 100% correct.
Oh man love your vids dude and the Scotty thing funny his amazing to but anyways i remember when you helped me out with the b5 audi head repairs vids i think was 3 parts to it helped me tons to get my car goin...now car headed to 287000 miles....
Scotty is a scam.. selling junk products and won't tell the truth on the history of Furd junk and fireballs thru the years
Yeah I know but it's funny tho and like I always say no all information is good information.....
I wish he were in my area also. There are no reliable techs anywhere near me. I try to do everything myself
👍😎thumbs up for Scotty Kilmer" rev up your jealousy!
I’ve been replacing parts for my 07 Jeep Grand Cherokee as they fail. So far so good. I’ve replaced almost all of u mentioned here w Bosch from O’Reily like catalytic converter system, water pump, new radiator, new serpentine belt, brake pads, fuel cap etc so far she’s back to running solid just hit 170K and I want her to run to the 400Ks 🤞🏽and btw I always oil change every 3K religiously w synthetic blend
🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥BE CAREFUL FILLING UP THE OIL FILTER LIKE THAT. It can cause a vacuum and you'll get NO oil pressure at all. I've seen this happen to Subaru boxer engines after a fresh rebuild. I imagine it to be more prevalent on a fresh build motor since there isn't any oil in the galleys.
Will K. Yessir
In regards to brake components...I've found that aftermarket brake parts can be VASTLY superior to stock OEM parts. The NAPA brand has some excellent brake rotors and pads.
That's probably dependent on your car brand, for Honda/Toyota you cannot go wrong with OEM which lasts a long time and wears the rotors less.
Hmmm unlikely.
U are not Scotty. Just be u. That would be best for your future success.
Scotty has that indescribable quality that makes a STAR.
God bless u
Another couple of tips, take it easy when driving especially during startup and you can have your engine oil and transmission fluid tested to see if there is abnormal wear. Blackstone laboratories can do these tests.
I drive Camry 1995 about to hit 300000 miles
My 99 Camry 4cyl is about to hit 300k too! Had it since 2000 with 14k on it.... Never had a real problem, typical small stuff, tie rod ends 2x, radiators 3x, timing belt 3x, struts and mounts 1x, both cooling fans 1x, idle air control valve / throttle body scrub out off the car 1x, original AC parts (live in FL, AC is used 95% of the time!) Original alternator although I replaced the brushes last year when I started getting no charge / alternator light ;-)
Bought new lower control arms, one bushing is shot, need to get that done ASAP at my friends shop. Can't even tell that the bushing is bad by the way it drives. Just feel a little clunking when tapping the brakes and odd squeaking when wet, so I knew something was wrong!
Car is so reliable and smooth and quiet on the road with the right tires on it (General Alitimax RT)...
96 Camry, daily driver, 340K Miles. Leaks a bunch of oil, but runs just fine!
My 06 spectra Manuel 162000 Miles AC super cool and keep going.
@Captain Caveman I keep waiting for it to crap out, and it never does... quite boring, not like my Fords, which fail and die in spectacular ways.
Captain Caveman Imagine having a shitty car that won’t make it past 200,000 miles with a ton of problems... That’s why I have a Toyota Camry and also my gas mileage is great.
I bought my 1993 Ford Ranger 2.3 in California December, 1992. As of this writing the vehicle has 478,000 miles on it. The engine is original with no repairs on it or the transmission. The vehicle had 2 recalls from Ford Motors early on with brake booster and the muffler replaced.
I was and still am careful about the oil changes, and always did pre-trip before getting out on the road for a long drive. It never had
synthetic oil, it used 20-50 or 10-40 GTX high mileage. I Love My Ranger! Just thought you'd like to know.
Dorman makes really good OE parts and much cheaper compared to what Dealer asking
Step one: Don't trade it in for a brand new car. A high price tag doesn't mean anything when it depreciates more than 50% in 2 years. Learn basic repairs and keep your money for life.
Very true I always use oem parts they cost more but they last a lot longer in the long run so they are actually cheaper. Aftermarket parts always fail earlier.
I remember that Scotty said to never flush a high mileage transmission.
Yep, car is working, leave it alone. Keep fussing with the car and you will break it!
When Scotty says don't flush he means don't go to a Jiffy Lube or some other shop where they use a pressurizing machine to clear it out. This however guy is recommending is more or less just a drain and fill which is okay
Change it. Don't flush it.
@@ncrtransport5993 You are correct.
Drain N fill
Important tip is to follow the break in procedure
Spot on, a poor break in can lead to problems no matter how well a car is maintained thereafter.
Gravemind all new vehicles I get I redline and beat to death. So far they are all alright
F150 4x4, 429k miles. Purring like a kitten. Original 5.4L & Transmission, 4 wheel drive, Starter, PS PUMP, Radiator, & many other original parts.
How ? The gas pedal. I have never ever stomped on the gas. No jack rabbit starts.
Gentle on the gas pedal & it will run forever.
1997 Ford Expedition 4x4 4.6L.
352,734 miles and not even a tap .
Secret ?
Change the oil and filter every 3,000 miles.
Dang! Good job, bud. I wish my 2013 Ford Fusion will make it to 200,000 miles. I love the car, but the transmission has a slight jerk between 2nd and 3rd gear at 99,400 miles... though it's minimal and doesn't always happen. I'm doing my best to maintain it in good shape. If I can get another 100,000 miles out of it, I'll be as happy as a clam.
@@LuisRamirez-ln3cj like scotty says stick with a toyota. Their transmission and engines are greatly manufactured. Maybe Ford trucks are better i am not sure. But I have had great experience with Hondas and most recently a toyota
@@LuisRamirez-ln3cj change the speed sensor.. theres also an adjustment around the valve body that will make that go away
@@fredc8618 I'll keep that in mind and check it out. Thanks!
What about the trans and the transfer case
And the differential???
I know you put a rear hub on it for sure though!
Rev up your - oh wait this isn't the Scotty Kilmer channel u tricked us! Lol jk. Kool video.
Excellent advice on putting in a big Auto Transmission Cooler.
The fluid in those gets almost as hot as a deep fryer. It then makes the soft rubber seals go petrified and leak once its full of stinky brown failed lubricant.
NEVER FLUSH YOUR TRANSMISSION.
Never flush older ones after 150k
the thing with Engine or Transmission issues is that they don't really have to be "catastrophic" to still be pricey.