Hi! Thanks for such an informative video, looks nice!! Just one spec is incorrect about our Power Kits. The system you talk about in the video should be rated at 3,600 watts😉
@@dirtbird43 I was thinking the same thing. The note in the description is NOT enough of a disclaimer. the video should be taken down or at least edited.
I have no doubt you know what the EcoFlow Tech is talking about, but he wasn't as specific as I believe he should have been for your audience. I'm fairly certain he is talking about the Inverter output at 3600W with a 6000W surge. You really should place an edit on the video and re-upload.
I installed Ecoflow Powerkit with 3,150 watts of solar on my 34ft Avion Travel Trailer last June. I have 15kw of batteries and run my air conditioner on the system. Live full time in our rig. In the over 9 months I have not plugged into shore power or a generator. Totally off grid. Full time. Love my Ecoflow Power Kit!
The EcoFlow Power Kit inverter/charger is rated at 3600w continuous and 7200 surge. Just to be fair. I have used Victron components and don't have any experience with the EcoFlow Power Kits, but have used other EcoFlow products and my experience is tech support for both companies is not great. A Victron system is much more complicated to install. The EcoFlow looks like it is easy to install and that may be a benefit to those interested in the DIY approach.
I would also say that discrete systems really should go straight to 48V (16s, 51.2V nominal LiFePO4). 12V is extremely limiting and generates a lot of heat for what people want to run these days. 48V makes everything a whole lot easier and the only real issue comes down to how to handle high-power DC appliances. But a power station has the same problem... it either won't have a 48V output or it will have major limitations on its 48V output. Low power 12V equipment is a non-issue since a cheap buck-converter deals with it. High power "legacy" 12V equipment is always a big problem for both types of systems if you don't want to replace it. But it isn't a good reason to stick with 12V batteries. When doing this amount of storage, legacy equipment may need replacing to really do it right and have a happy result. A lot of people are just going straight to AC for major appliances and eating the inverter losses and idle losses. With 5120Wh+ of storage it isn't as big a problem as it has been in past years. I would not get battle-born batteries, they are extremely expensive relative to SOK or EG4 batteries and BB does not do a good job supporting 48V. Two batteries minimum (for redundancy). For example, 2 x 48V (51.2V nominal 16s LiFePO4) @ 50Ah each, in parallel = 5120 Wh of storage. Also, no matter what battery voltage you eventually decide to use, don't saddle yourself with Victron equipment that is only capable of doing 12V or 24V when you have any choice in the matter. For the charge controller, use one or more Smart Solar 100/20's, which can handle 12, 24, and 48V system voltages. You want at least two for redundancy anyway, as well as for optimal panel arrangement, and the 100/20's are only $90. At 48V a single 100/20 can handle 1000W of solar. A big advantage of going 48V is that you can use 2 AWG battery and inverter cabling without breaking a sweat. 100A @ 48V (51.2V nominal) is over 5 kW. For the Victron inverter system, the Multiplus II 120 48V. Victron is a bit behind the times here in that their split-phase (240VAC) offering only exists for 12V and 24V. An EG4 6000XP will do a better job with a 48V system. Either way, redundancy is important, no matter what main system you purchase, you will want a second inverter. You will ALSO want a separate discrete inverter, anywhere from $150 - $250. Again this gives you options if things break out in the middle of nowhere, but you can also wire this second inverter directly to an outlet in the kitchen area (with a remote switch so it isn't wasting power when not in use), and now you can run your toaster oven, microwave, AND your induction kettle for tear all at the same time. When I total things up I get around $3700 before taxes, using SOC or EG4 or discrete 48V LiFePO4 batteries instead of BB. Inclusive of insundries and redundancies. Of course, the "school of hard knocks" is gonna probably add another $500 to the tab for inexperienced DIYers. -Matt
@@CJ30123 Arguments can be made for small vans to stick with 24V, mainly due to the lack of roof-space for solar. But a lot of people are just buying AC appliances these days rather than spending money on expensive DC "RV" appliances. Most AC appliances have gotten efficient enough that they can just be used in a van or RV without wasting much power. Very low-power items such as lights are literally just a $10 buck converter off of amazon, so there's no need to match the system voltage to the lighting voltage. RVs have more DC gear, particularly motors, which I have already talked about (downbuffering solutions instead of direct home battery connections).
@@CJ30123 This isn't the 1980's, CS. People aren't buying DC appliances anywhere near as often as they used to, not when normal AC household appliances are half the price, almost as efficient, and when the typical battery pack in a large RV has four times the useful energy storage as one just 10 years ago had. Let alone anything older. Start running actual consumption, solar, and storage numbers and you will quickly realize why.
@@CJ30123 You are welcome to try to actually have a conversation instead of behaving like a child. To be honest, you have not said even a single thing that would be of interest to anyone. -Matt
Love our ecoflow. Started with 4kwh independence, found another 2kwh battery for cheap on eBay and added 50% more capacity to our system with one cable.
We've been using powerqueen batteries for about two years now. We built a 3.6kw used panel array, with a refurb EG4 6000ex all-in-one inverter, and added 10kW of the powerqueens for under $5k total to charge our Ford Lightning. I think 10kW of powerqueens are down to under $2k now. I build my own solar generators, as I don't trust longevity of pre-built systems. I'd rather know my components, and if I have an issue, replace them myself if they go bad. So far so good, I have three systems now, and the the two year old systems with home built, 18650 batts, RoarBatt inverters, and Epever charge controller, has been running outside in Texas heat, cold, and rain inside a Ryobi link toolbox for a year and a half, and powers my home office, and can run a rigid tablesaw with just a 2000watt Roarbatt inverter and a powerqueen 12v 100ah battery with 100amp BMS. I think I spend $700 on it a year and a half ago. I just built a smaller one, for overlanding, with a rolling harbor freight toolbox (like pelican) with a victron 75/15, and a 24v Phoenix inverter, home built battery, for around $500... with bluetooth. It's just too easy to build your own. I did it in half a day.
Very helpful discussion. For my 3 season van configuration, I am using the Bluetti AC200P which offers 2,048 Wh of capacity, which provides enough battery capacity for 3 days of boondocking. It's now on sale for $1200, and so is a great deal. I supply DC to my fridge, water pump, roof vent and lights, so I have a very minimal load. I don't have hot water or an air conditioner. I didn't want to install solar panels on my roof, because of the cleaning/shading hassle factor, so I use portable solar panels for the occasional need for additional supply while boondocking. I've also learned that the battery doesn't recharge very well using the 12 auxiliary jack, being a 100 watt recharge rate. So, I've added a 12-48 volt boost charger connected to my car battery/alternator so it now recharges at a rate of 550 watts. So, I can fully recharge the battery in about a 3 1/2 hr drive.
I’ve been using the eco flow pro ultra plugin to 220v and connect the roof solar from toy hauler it gives me 10k watts power runs my 2 ac units and frig perfect.
3000VA Multiplus is 1700w to 2400w depending on internal heat. So it produces significantly less than 3000w continuous. It does have good surge capability and is extremely well built with great reliability and features and I do use and recommend them, but their power output is not great for multiple high output consumers. I am planning to use the 24v 5000w Quattro in my next build, for higher output and even nicer features (at a price!)
Good advice! I purchased the EcoFlow 10 kWh PowerKit a year ago and it has worked great for me. You are correct that the EcoFlow support is subpar. They do excel on their firmware updates as they are constantly adding new abilities to the existing components. For example the alternator charging now has the option for 70 amps (up from 60). For me being self employed I had to factor in my time. The PowerKit was very simple to install. But you are correct that it is proprietary and if anything fails... I'll be hurting. I am interested to hear what Battle Born will offer for their "all in one" system.
The good thing is that batteries and tech are getting cheaper...Ecoflow Delta Pro for example is cheaper than the Power Kit but is not standardized for automotive connections.
You can charge 4800 watts of a second alternator with ecoflow. Look at the manual or talk to them. Also look how Winnebago is using them. There will be other batteries you could use in the future . I know Winnebago said it is only for them but I’m sure we will see other people doing it too!
perfectly timed for the design of my van. was considering both systems. question for you . . . when it comes to solar, if we assume 12 hours of daylight under blue skies and you have 400 Watts of solar panels on the roof, how much charge (Ah) do you think your batteries can take on per day? Just trying to figure out the amount of Ah required for the hotter summer days to enable us to be off grid using a 12 V rooftop AC unit. Thx.
That’s a tough one, because there are so many variables. A big one is angle of the sun. You may only get 50-100 watts when the sun is low. When the sun is more directly overhead you’ll get more, but never the full 400 watts. Depending on your latitude, you will probably average 200-300 watts across a full day on a good day. That will give you around 200Ah on a 12V system. It’s tough to supply all your needs from solar on a van. You just can’t fit enough panels on the roof.
QQ: I am looking at getting a class C RV with a generator system, but want to get an Ecoflow battery pack specifically to run my gaming PC setup. Would like to get 400-600W of solar installed eventually, and looking at the Ecoflow Alternator charger. Should I run the Ecoflow Alternator charger to the "starter battery" or could I run it off the "house batteries"?
Great video and explanation. I was wondering could you use an isotherm 4 gallon hot water heater as a holding tank for the hot water coming out of the AquatHot. This way don’t have to wait 20 mins for the water to heat up.
I’m not sure whether that would work. My first thought is that it probably wouldn’t, however where there’s a will there’s probably a way. BTW- 20 minutes is for the water to reach full temperature. It is pretty warm after 8-10 minutes.
Might be a stupid question: why not just use portable all-in-one batteries as fixed system? For example, Ecoflow Delta Pro with extra batteries, or multiple Delta Pro if input/output is an issue. It's cheaper, and even cheaper when on sale (while those separate parts rarely go on sale IIRC), plus you can get them from Costco which means the best return policy even if you are on the road. You can't run 12V AC, but 110V AC or Wave 2 is possible.
I understand the benefits of have two Orion devices for faster alternator charging but why do you not recommend a 2nd alternator? Is it just the cost of buying the additional alternator and having it installed? Is this something that can easily be added to a system down the line?
Thanks for the detailed comparison! The eco flow looks nice, but it appears to be a poor value. We're retired FT RVers who discovered we love boondocking, so designed and built our off-grid electrical system ourselves, on a limited budget. We're living this lifestyle off of a limited retirement income so had to take the low budget route, foregoing name brand components like Victron and Battleborn for more affordable, quality options. We started by building a 620-watt liftable solar array on the side of our 1999 National Tropical MH. Our side array makes a nice bedroom window awning too, practically lifting itself with a couple gas struts, and it's easy to clean, standing safely on the ground. Next, we built a 12v, 560ah LiFePo-4 battery using 8, 280ah prismatic cells and a Heltec 330amp (1,200a surge) BMS to start our generator. This is roughly the equivalent of a pair of Battleborn Gamechangers. But unlike the Gamechangers, these cells fit perfectly under the steps of our MH where our old pair of golf cart batteries used to reside. Our 12v system uses an 80A Lithium converter/charger, a 1,000w Renogy inverter, a 50a Epever MPPT charge controller and a Lnex battery monitor. We have a Renogy DC-DC charger so we can use our alternator for charging, but truthfully, we have so much solar that we never even turn it on, (nor do we use our converter/charger anymore) - though I can see where one might come in handy in a van with limited solar. All this cost us around $3,500 and meets all our off-grid electrical needs except for air conditioning, and microwave. By mounting the solar array on the side of our coach, we left the roof free to rack 8, 550w solar panels down the length of our 35ft Class A, 15" off the roof, above our AC, vents, etc. It shades our entire roof, allowing plenty of cooling air underneath, increasing solar output and reducing the heat load on the air conditioners. Our 4,400w array can run both our A/Cs, our household appliances and charge our batteries from solar at the same time. When the sun goes down, we're always at 100% battery capacity, even in winter. We can even run our mini split heat pump 24/7 providing both A/C and heat powered by the sun. We use a Sungold Power all-in-one 48V, 5,000W PSW Inverter/100A charge controller/battery charger that saves us space as well as money compared to a system built with individual components. This all-in-one unit has the same 99% charging and 95% inverter efficiency as the high end Victron unit, though it lacks some of the bells and whistles to come in at only $764. We chose this particular unit because it supports up to 500 volts of solar power which was needed to accommodate our 400voc solar array and it is from an established manufacturer offering lifetime customer support from their US facility and a decent warranty. Our 48v battery uses 16, 320ah prismatic cells and a 200amp BMS (the equivalent wattage of an 800amp 12v BMS) to keep it safe. Together with our 560ah 12v bank, we have a total of 23.5 kwh of batteries onboard - kept charged by 5,020 watts of solar. For comparison, this is roughly the equivalent of 18, 100ah Battleborn batteries. The price of Lithium prismatic cells has dropped quite a bit over the last few years. Our first 7.1kwh battery cost us $1,569 or $221/kwh, however the 16.4kwh we bought last November only cost $1,726 or $105/kwh. Of course, you'll need to add a $100-$150 BMS to keep things safe. We removed our old rooftop bedroom A/C and replaced it with an EG4 28.5 seer-2, 12k btu mini-split heat pump on the upper rear of our motorhome. It's super quiet and cools as well as our 14.5k btu soft start equipped Furrion we have up front. It only draws about 1/3rd the power and heats efficiently too, reducing our propane usage. We have no need to hook-up to power pedestals or run our generator anymore, as we can now run everything in our MH strictly off the sun, including A/C and heat from our heat pump 24/7 if needed. By mounting the solar array on the side of our coach, we left the roof free to rack 8, 550w solar panels down the length of our 35ft Class A, 15" off the roof, above our AC, vents, etc. It shades our entire roof, allowing plenty of cooling air underneath, increasing solar output and reducing the heat load on the air conditioners. Our 4,400w array can run both our A/Cs, our household appliances and charge our batteries from solar at the same time, even in winter. We mounted a Sungold Power all-in-one 48V, 5,000W Inverter/100A charge controller/battery charger, breakers and another Lnex battery monitor on the wall in our bedroom, saving us space as well as money compared to a system built with individual components. Together with our redundant 560ah 12v bank, we have a total of 23.5 kwh of batteries onboard, kept charged by 5,020 watts of solar. We removed our old rooftop bedroom A/C and replaced it with an EG4 28.5 seer-2, 12k btu mini-split heat pump on the upper rear of our motorhome. It's super quiet and cools as well as our 14.5k btu soft start equipped Furrion we have up front, but only draws about 1/3rd the power. Our total budget for both 12v and 48v systems was around $11,500, including the $1,500 high-efficiency heat pump. We have no need to hook-up to power pedestals or run our generator anymore, as we run everything in our MH strictly off the sun
Great video, the problem we have in Australia is they have new policy since Nov 23 and if you go with a traditional setup you have to treat it like having a gas bottle connected inside, it must be vented to the outside and boxed in, we're not as lucky as North America, we live in a policy driven country, we can't even park our van conversions in a lot of the towns/cities if we don't have a plumbed in shower/sink/toilet due to policy, I still go with no shower and park on a local street overnight, and I use the Bluetti system due to the ease of installation. I don't like the idea of venting batteries to the outside elements, I think in Australia that would lead to dust/dirt getting onto the terminals and into the batteries and all the other components and having major issues in the middle of nowhere as most of Australia is remote, not good.
Would love to see you compare a 48V system with victron and and ecoflow deltra pro. I think, for a van, the ecoflow system you choose is a bit overkill. the delta pro is now relatively at a good price, and expendable to 10,8kW. Thanks for the video, they are very helpfull for me!
The 70A DC output cap on the Ecoflow is the huge negative, at least in my case where I need to run a 12v a/c, fridge, and a bit of other stuff at the same time. I'd love to just get the drop-in system, even if it cost a bit more, but that hard 70A limit pretty much forces me to go Victron.
Thanks so much. Very timely. My builder is about to add the 10kw EcoFlow. I am concerned . The issue is the amps coming from the sprinter factory alternator. Just curious if you can run directly from a secondary alternator, right to the alternator port?
I have an inverter attached to the car battery (by the auto electrician), then you plug in your PowerStations AC Adaptor and while you're driving you are charging your PowerStation, also EcoFlow have brought out an actual system that connects to the car battery and powers up the EcoFlow so fast, that's your best idea, that way you're not using Amps and being limited.
Ecoflow works great for my off grid home. The 15Kwh Power Kit I have delivers what it claims up to and more, I've pushed it to 4000w output(rated @ 3600w) with no problem, easy to install, can accept 4800w PV input, I don't need the DC output as I'm in a house, so no alternator, looks great and folks say it looks more like fine furniture, a little ego boost for me. Had it for a bout a year now... The problems, of course, CRAPPY firmware!!! Lights start bugging out, AC shuts down, PV stops charging, The Ecoflow Orange light of death starts flashing and all this after a firmware update!!!! And resolved by doing it again and sometimes again after that. My suggestion no more updates, after I found one that works I stopped updating now for months and all is good. Customer service is ok at best and not bad @ worst, They walked me thru the update mess situation. So yeah I like Ecoflow 💖
Great information. The scary part at the end. Cables short can’t extend? Well that’s wrong. I get it you push your best way to sell. People need to know TH-cam is always selling something.
Small correction. The Victron Multiplus 3000 is measured in Volt Amps. Meaning it is 2,400 watt max capacity. I can tell you from experience with the a couple peoples Power Kits that they are overpriced garbage. Software issues since launch that STILL arent fixed. Seems to be a trend with Ecoflow products. Release half baked products and then never really support them.
Inverter from ecoflow is not 2200, it's 3600 so a win there And what a comparison in the 2 builds, why just the cheap display with no cerbo gx on the victron side , i mean the ecoflow has the panel with full readout of the whole system, not fair really, also where is the bms from victron for the 4 batteries ?? At the end victron really is more expensive, u can't deny it. Bad comparison sir, keep on trying defend victron. I know u don't wanna lose your job as victron electrician in vans but this review is manipulated.
I have been running an Ecoflow Delta 2 Max with extra battery (4.2 kW hr capacity) in my Sprinter van for 6 months now and I highly recommend against using Ecoflow. It is unreliable and buggy. Within the first month the connection system to the extra battery failed and I had to replace the main unit under warranty. Since then the unit has required shutdown and rebooting every few days for various reasons such as random disconnecting from the iPhone app, which is the only way to change certain settings such as charge rate. Furthermore, DC charge rate is limited to about 500 watts per port and only if you push the voltage up towards 60 volts. So to charge faster you need to use a 2000 watt pure sine wave inverter. When charging on AC the Ecoflow passes through the AC and this is not configurable so you can’t charge on AC and use the Ecoflow inverter. I highly regret buying Ecoflow and should have gone with a Victron system from the start. Don’t make my mistake as I curse my Ecoflow system every few days whenever something goes wrong.
I will not go far into your video before saying this. I have both systems and the all in one systems are very convenient but also very expensive and not just to buy. I accidentally pulled more than 8amps from an 8 amp plug (DC5521) in one of my old all in one systems. Smoke came out & the entire thing died (inverter, battery and all other plugs…dead). I did the same thing to my “Victron” system and only my 30 amp fuse blew. I once also “accidentally” put an incompatible solar and only the fuse on my MPPT had to be replaced (the panel voltage was higher than what was allowed by the MPPT). My all in one system might have been old and maybe didn’t have a bough protection for the individual circuits but the entire thing still died.
I know the change is going to be painful but companies that build cars, trucks, and the like need to get the lead out that start converting their electrical systems to 48V. It will definitely have a painful initial ripple effect, but all of the huge, heavy wires and components with 12V systems are an incredible waste, are fairly expensive, and require tools that largely will gather dust after installation unless it's your trade. I'm just not feeling that noise, and I work with some of it. I love the idea of a 48V battery by itself, but you can see fairly quickly all of the conversion required to make 12v system play well with it...particularly when the batteries need a charge from other than solar.
Watt-hours is actually the correct way to measure capacity. There is no real concept of an Amp-hour. It is a contrived sort of solution. A watt is volts x amps, then watts per hour are a measure of work. Amps are just amps.
You just saved me. I was leaning toward Ecoflow until I saw this. Being down for weeks and weeks because of a cable they cannot be bothered to get out on time? Yeah, so long Ecoflow. Thanks brother!
Great video! I’m looking for information as to EcoFlow distributors. I purchased a van with the 5 KW power kit. Having a few issues. I’ve been emailing with EcoFlow support with no real solution yet. Would really like some hands on help.Location Midwest. TIA
Sorry, but we don't work on Ecoflow systems. I hope you can find some help to get yours working. This is my biggest issue with Ecoflow and other all-in-1 systems. If something's not working, the whole system may have to be sent in for repair or replaced. With a modular system like Victron, if something is not working, that component can be replaced. We have had inverters, Orions and MPPTs become faulty. we simply sent the customer a new unit (under warranty) and they were able to swap it out.
You seem like a sincere guy but your watt hour rating for the EcoFlow vs Battle Born battery does not look correct; Battle Born states their watt hour rating on their 100ah batteries as 1200wh. That means that four of those would only contain 4800wh. EcoFlow is as you stated; 5120wh. The inverter outputs are also are off; Victron uses volt amps and a power factor so their inverter only puts out 2400 watts continuous; the EcoFlow runs 3600 watts continuous.....that is 1200 watts difference favoring EcoFlow. I install a lot of RV solar power systems and do Victron and I have to say that your conclusions conclusions are incorrect. You may have made an honest mistake but you really need to take this down and redo the video.
Ecoflow reached out to us about the error in output watts and we put a correction in the description, which was satisfactory to them. As far as the watt hours for the Battle Born batteries, we explained that we used a working voltage of 13.5. 400Ah X 13.5V = 5,400Wh.
Watt hours for 4 Battle Born batteries is 1200wh x 4 and that equals 4800 total watt hours. The Ecoflow battery has 5120wh. If you divide those numbers by 13.5 you get the actual amp hours available. There is no magical way to get more capacity out of the Battle Borns than the EcoFlows.
The main drawback of Ecoflow is that you can't add more batteries. And thats a huge drawback! I just don't understand why Ecoflow chose to severely limit their system like this. In almost all other areas Ecoflow is better especially the fact that it doesn't require you to programming anything. But considering the huge drawback I chose Victron for my van without a sec thought.
Thanks for the video - however you missed a very important point which make the Eco Flow lithium systems far superior to Battle born and others. It has to do with the fact the Eco Flow lithium batteries are 51 volts rather than 12 volts. This means they operate using 75 less amperage for the same load verses 12 volts. Less amperage means less heat and losses and higher discharge and charging abilities. In addition, the Eco Flow inverter, up and down converters all operate cooler thanks to low amperage. If you would like more information on 51 volt systems look over my non sponsored 51 volt dual voltage dual Inverter RV system Thanks Mike 5112 dual Voltage Lithium System th-cam.com/video/ZxSS44przNs/w-d-xo.html
Battery systems are like fishing lure colors the fish don’t really care they just wana eat lure colors attract fisherman not fish so technically any system will work for you just pick what you think will work best like me after watching vids hanging out with others in Real World Van Life n RVsand have seen to plus n minuses of almost every system now I picked what should work for me it’s all trail n error
I build my own systems. Once you learn how, it's easy. I learned how from Will Prowse. He's a little genius on all things solar. Have two (2) stand alone 1208ah systems. Each system, sans solar panels only cost me about $1,000. I buy the raw Li Fe PO4 302wh batteries and stack 4 of them together for each system. Victron is nice but way overpriced for today's market. - I use one system and charge the other; rotating. - The key, to me, living in a van is insulation. I pretty much live in a giant icebox. Easy to cool, and to heat. I'm surrounded by 2" of xps foam. The living compartment is separate from the driving part of the van. -
I see builds where they spend so much money on all kind of mods. Then using an Ecoflow or similar instead of building real house battery system. For me it’s difficult to understand
Here’s the real issue, any electrical equipment, runs on watts. That is the unit of power. A 60 W lightbulb doesn’t care how much voltage or amperage it gets, as long as it gets 60 W. That is an ongoing issue with these electrical component manufacturers. Everything has to be displayed in watts, otherwise it makes no sense.
To me you are selling your stuff! Great analysis however. Big issue cost of install component system. Also selling food in middle presentation not a good look.
Biased video. 3,600 Ecoflow option is more advanced. Other factors are install costs. This varies wildly and can be misleading. The simple fact that you are an installer is implying bias and you should recuse yourself from such activities. And why EcoFlow vs Bluettie or other out of the box battery storage inverter manufacturers? You may not realize that your comparisons are so skewed, which would be my largest concern. I normally do not comment on comparison videos but this is one of the most unjust that I have seen. I’m neither for or against either of the systems you are comparing but have enough understanding of the lines that both have advantages and disadvantages but to the degree when factoring in the install seems simply irresponsible. But it’s your channel so… I would hope that you adjust your evaluation or it casts a shadow on the rest of your channel IMHO.
My knowledge is getting better little by little but it is an overwhelming process of watching a lot of videos, and one thing I can confidently say is that the “Thriving Life” videos are absolutely the best on TH-cam and whoever made this comment is the one who is misleading people! That being said I’m sure that Jeff has monetized his channel and is making some money from the views, but it is clear that his motivation and his character is all about helping people. Given that I’m 61, I don’t know if I will ever be able to build out my own camper van conversion, but if it does happen a big reason will be the guidance that Jeff unselfishly provides people who choose to take on this kind of project!
Hi! Thanks for such an informative video, looks nice!! Just one spec is incorrect about our Power Kits. The system you talk about in the video should be rated at 3,600 watts😉
Good to know. Thank you for the correction.
This gives Ecoflow an edge.....24V AC unit would pair good with this.
This inaccuracy in the video justifies changing your edit or removing your analysis from TH-cam.
@@dirtbird43 I was thinking the same thing. The note in the description is NOT enough of a disclaimer. the video should be taken down or at least edited.
I have no doubt you know what the EcoFlow Tech is talking about, but he wasn't as specific as I believe he should have been for your audience. I'm fairly certain he is talking about the Inverter output at 3600W with a 6000W surge. You really should place an edit on the video and re-upload.
I installed Ecoflow Powerkit with 3,150 watts of solar on my 34ft Avion Travel Trailer last June. I have 15kw of batteries and run my air conditioner on the system. Live full time in our rig. In the over 9 months I have not plugged into shore power or a generator. Totally off grid. Full time. Love my Ecoflow Power Kit!
What the inverter power rating of the 15kW system?
@@ZillaYT 3600w
I have powered on my ecoflow powerkit system on my van for 24 months. Non stop.and it’s getting better and better!
The EcoFlow Power Kit inverter/charger is rated at 3600w continuous and 7200 surge. Just to be fair. I have used Victron components and don't have any experience with the EcoFlow Power Kits, but have used other EcoFlow products and my experience is tech support for both companies is not great. A Victron system is much more complicated to install. The EcoFlow looks like it is easy to install and that may be a benefit to those interested in the DIY approach.
I think Van Land already made a perfect video going through ecoflow vs Vic and I must say Ecoflow is to go for next build
I would also say that discrete systems really should go straight to 48V (16s, 51.2V nominal LiFePO4). 12V is extremely limiting and generates a lot of heat for what people want to run these days. 48V makes everything a whole lot easier and the only real issue comes down to how to handle high-power DC appliances. But a power station has the same problem... it either won't have a 48V output or it will have major limitations on its 48V output.
Low power 12V equipment is a non-issue since a cheap buck-converter deals with it.
High power "legacy" 12V equipment is always a big problem for both types of systems if you don't want to replace it. But it isn't a good reason to stick with 12V batteries. When doing this amount of storage, legacy equipment may need replacing to really do it right and have a happy result. A lot of people are just going straight to AC for major appliances and eating the inverter losses and idle losses. With 5120Wh+ of storage it isn't as big a problem as it has been in past years.
I would not get battle-born batteries, they are extremely expensive relative to SOK or EG4 batteries and BB does not do a good job supporting 48V. Two batteries minimum (for redundancy). For example, 2 x 48V (51.2V nominal 16s LiFePO4) @ 50Ah each, in parallel = 5120 Wh of storage.
Also, no matter what battery voltage you eventually decide to use, don't saddle yourself with Victron equipment that is only capable of doing 12V or 24V when you have any choice in the matter. For the charge controller, use one or more Smart Solar 100/20's, which can handle 12, 24, and 48V system voltages. You want at least two for redundancy anyway, as well as for optimal panel arrangement, and the 100/20's are only $90. At 48V a single 100/20 can handle 1000W of solar.
A big advantage of going 48V is that you can use 2 AWG battery and inverter cabling without breaking a sweat. 100A @ 48V (51.2V nominal) is over 5 kW.
For the Victron inverter system, the Multiplus II 120 48V. Victron is a bit behind the times here in that their split-phase (240VAC) offering only exists for 12V and 24V. An EG4 6000XP will do a better job with a 48V system.
Either way, redundancy is important, no matter what main system you purchase, you will want a second inverter. You will ALSO want a separate discrete inverter, anywhere from $150 - $250. Again this gives you options if things break out in the middle of nowhere, but you can also wire this second inverter directly to an outlet in the kitchen area (with a remote switch so it isn't wasting power when not in use), and now you can run your toaster oven, microwave, AND your induction kettle for tear all at the same time.
When I total things up I get around $3700 before taxes, using SOC or EG4 or discrete 48V LiFePO4 batteries instead of BB. Inclusive of insundries and redundancies. Of course, the "school of hard knocks" is gonna probably add another $500 to the tab for inexperienced DIYers.
-Matt
Good points. The van community is moving towards 24V. 48V is a ways off, but I think it is gaining popularity.
@@CJ30123 Arguments can be made for small vans to stick with 24V, mainly due to the lack of roof-space for solar. But a lot of people are just buying AC appliances these days rather than spending money on expensive DC "RV" appliances. Most AC appliances have gotten efficient enough that they can just be used in a van or RV without wasting much power.
Very low-power items such as lights are literally just a $10 buck converter off of amazon, so there's no need to match the system voltage to the lighting voltage.
RVs have more DC gear, particularly motors, which I have already talked about (downbuffering solutions instead of direct home battery connections).
@@CJ30123 This isn't the 1980's, CS. People aren't buying DC appliances anywhere near as often as they used to, not when normal AC household appliances are half the price, almost as efficient, and when the typical battery pack in a large RV has four times the useful energy storage as one just 10 years ago had. Let alone anything older.
Start running actual consumption, solar, and storage numbers and you will quickly realize why.
@@CJ30123 You are welcome to try to actually have a conversation instead of behaving like a child. To be honest, you have not said even a single thing that would be of interest to anyone.
-Matt
Love our ecoflow. Started with 4kwh independence, found another 2kwh battery for cheap on eBay and added 50% more capacity to our system with one cable.
We've been using powerqueen batteries for about two years now. We built a 3.6kw used panel array, with a refurb EG4 6000ex all-in-one inverter, and added 10kW of the powerqueens for under $5k total to charge our Ford Lightning. I think 10kW of powerqueens are down to under $2k now. I build my own solar generators, as I don't trust longevity of pre-built systems. I'd rather know my components, and if I have an issue, replace them myself if they go bad. So far so good, I have three systems now, and the the two year old systems with home built, 18650 batts, RoarBatt inverters, and Epever charge controller, has been running outside in Texas heat, cold, and rain inside a Ryobi link toolbox for a year and a half, and powers my home office, and can run a rigid tablesaw with just a 2000watt Roarbatt inverter and a powerqueen 12v 100ah battery with 100amp BMS. I think I spend $700 on it a year and a half ago. I just built a smaller one, for overlanding, with a rolling harbor freight toolbox (like pelican) with a victron 75/15, and a 24v Phoenix inverter, home built battery, for around $500... with bluetooth. It's just too easy to build your own. I did it in half a day.
If I ever decided to do this you would be my go to resource. You are one of the most sensible & knowledgeable out there
Very helpful discussion. For my 3 season van configuration, I am using the Bluetti AC200P which offers 2,048 Wh of capacity, which provides enough battery capacity for 3 days of boondocking. It's now on sale for $1200, and so is a great deal. I supply DC to my fridge, water pump, roof vent and lights, so I have a very minimal load. I don't have hot water or an air conditioner. I didn't want to install solar panels on my roof, because of the cleaning/shading hassle factor, so I use portable solar panels for the occasional need for additional supply while boondocking. I've also learned that the battery doesn't recharge very well using the 12 auxiliary jack, being a 100 watt recharge rate. So, I've added a 12-48 volt boost charger connected to my car battery/alternator so it now recharges at a rate of 550 watts. So, I can fully recharge the battery in about a 3 1/2 hr drive.
Glad to hear that’s working for you.
I’ve been using the eco flow pro ultra plugin to 220v and connect the roof solar from toy hauler it gives me 10k watts power runs my 2 ac units and frig perfect.
I just read the specs of Power Hub. The inverter has a 3600w output. Where do those 2200 continuous watts come from?
Apologies. I was going off of a review of the Ecoflow. I should have looked up the specs from the manufacturer.
This is misleading information and totally incorrect. You should edit and update in my opinion
3000VA Multiplus is 1700w to 2400w depending on internal heat. So it produces significantly less than 3000w continuous. It does have good surge capability and is extremely well built with great reliability and features and I do use and recommend them, but their power output is not great for multiple high output consumers. I am planning to use the 24v 5000w Quattro in my next build, for higher output and even nicer features (at a price!)
Good advice! I purchased the EcoFlow 10 kWh PowerKit a year ago and it has worked great for me. You are correct that the EcoFlow support is subpar. They do excel on their firmware updates as they are constantly adding new abilities to the existing components. For example the alternator charging now has the option for 70 amps (up from 60). For me being self employed I had to factor in my time. The PowerKit was very simple to install. But you are correct that it is proprietary and if anything fails... I'll be hurting. I am interested to hear what Battle Born will offer for their "all in one" system.
Glad to hear it’s working well for you. Thanks for watching!
The good thing is that batteries and tech are getting cheaper...Ecoflow Delta Pro for example is cheaper than the Power Kit but is not standardized for automotive connections.
You can charge 4800 watts of a second alternator with ecoflow. Look at the manual or talk to them. Also look how Winnebago is using them. There will be other batteries you could use in the future . I know Winnebago said it is only for them but I’m sure we will see other people doing it too!
I’m not sold on Ecoflow yet but I have a year before I start building a van so keeping my eye on them.
perfectly timed for the design of my van. was considering both systems. question for you . . . when it comes to solar, if we assume 12 hours of daylight under blue skies and you have 400 Watts of solar panels on the roof, how much charge (Ah) do you think your batteries can take on per day? Just trying to figure out the amount of Ah required for the hotter summer days to enable us to be off grid using a 12 V rooftop AC unit. Thx.
That’s a tough one, because there are so many variables. A big one is angle of the sun. You may only get 50-100 watts when the sun is low. When the sun is more directly overhead you’ll get more, but never the full 400 watts. Depending on your latitude, you will probably average 200-300 watts across a full day on a good day. That will give you around 200Ah on a 12V system. It’s tough to supply all your needs from solar on a van. You just can’t fit enough panels on the roof.
What one takes up the most space
QQ: I am looking at getting a class C RV with a generator system, but want to get an Ecoflow battery pack specifically to run my gaming PC setup. Would like to get 400-600W of solar installed eventually, and looking at the Ecoflow Alternator charger. Should I run the Ecoflow Alternator charger to the "starter battery" or could I run it off the "house batteries"?
Great video and explanation. I was wondering could you use an isotherm 4 gallon hot water heater as a holding tank for the hot water coming out of the AquatHot. This way don’t have to wait 20 mins for the water to heat up.
I’m not sure whether that would work. My first thought is that it probably wouldn’t, however where there’s a will there’s probably a way. BTW- 20 minutes is for the water to reach full temperature. It is pretty warm after 8-10 minutes.
Might be a stupid question: why not just use portable all-in-one batteries as fixed system? For example, Ecoflow Delta Pro with extra batteries, or multiple Delta Pro if input/output is an issue. It's cheaper, and even cheaper when on sale (while those separate parts rarely go on sale IIRC), plus you can get them from Costco which means the best return policy even if you are on the road. You can't run 12V AC, but 110V AC or Wave 2 is possible.
I understand the benefits of have two Orion devices for faster alternator charging but why do you not recommend a 2nd alternator? Is it just the cost of buying the additional alternator and having it installed? Is this something that can easily be added to a system down the line?
Thanks for the informative video ...I was just about to pull the trigger on an ecoflow.
Best timing, just bought a Van and still not sure if I go for Ecoflow or Victron. Ecoflow just seems so easy it's tempting.
Thanks for the detailed comparison! The eco flow looks nice, but it appears to be a poor value. We're retired FT RVers who discovered we love boondocking, so designed and built our off-grid electrical system ourselves, on a limited budget. We're living this lifestyle off of a limited retirement income so had to take the low budget route, foregoing name brand components like Victron and Battleborn for more affordable, quality options.
We started by building a 620-watt liftable solar array on the side of our 1999 National Tropical MH. Our side array makes a nice bedroom window awning too, practically lifting itself with a couple gas struts, and it's easy to clean, standing safely on the ground. Next, we built a 12v, 560ah LiFePo-4 battery using 8, 280ah prismatic cells and a Heltec 330amp (1,200a surge) BMS to start our generator. This is roughly the equivalent of a pair of Battleborn Gamechangers. But unlike the Gamechangers, these cells fit perfectly under the steps of our MH where our old pair of golf cart batteries used to reside. Our 12v system uses an 80A Lithium converter/charger, a 1,000w Renogy inverter, a 50a Epever MPPT charge controller and a Lnex battery monitor. We have a Renogy DC-DC charger so we can use our alternator for charging, but truthfully, we have so much solar that we never even turn it on, (nor do we use our converter/charger anymore) - though I can see where one might come in handy in a van with limited solar. All this cost us around $3,500 and meets all our off-grid electrical needs except for air conditioning, and microwave.
By mounting the solar array on the side of our coach, we left the roof free to rack 8, 550w solar panels down the length of our 35ft Class A, 15" off the roof, above our AC, vents, etc. It shades our entire roof, allowing plenty of cooling air underneath, increasing solar output and reducing the heat load on the air conditioners. Our 4,400w array can run both our A/Cs, our household appliances and charge our batteries from solar at the same time. When the sun goes down, we're always at 100% battery capacity, even in winter. We can even run our mini split heat pump 24/7 providing both A/C and heat powered by the sun.
We use a Sungold Power all-in-one 48V, 5,000W PSW Inverter/100A charge controller/battery charger that saves us space as well as money compared to a system built with individual components. This all-in-one unit has the same 99% charging and 95% inverter efficiency as the high end Victron unit, though it lacks some of the bells and whistles to come in at only $764. We chose this particular unit because it supports up to 500 volts of solar power which was needed to accommodate our 400voc solar array and it is from an established manufacturer offering lifetime customer support from their US facility and a decent warranty.
Our 48v battery uses 16, 320ah prismatic cells and a 200amp BMS (the equivalent wattage of an 800amp 12v BMS) to keep it safe. Together with our 560ah 12v bank, we have a total of 23.5 kwh of batteries onboard - kept charged by 5,020 watts of solar. For comparison, this is roughly the equivalent of 18, 100ah Battleborn batteries. The price of Lithium prismatic cells has dropped quite a bit over the last few years. Our first 7.1kwh battery cost us $1,569 or $221/kwh, however the 16.4kwh we bought last November only cost $1,726 or $105/kwh. Of course, you'll need to add a $100-$150 BMS to keep things safe. We removed our old rooftop bedroom A/C and replaced it with an EG4 28.5 seer-2, 12k btu mini-split heat pump on the upper rear of our motorhome. It's super quiet and cools as well as our 14.5k btu soft start equipped Furrion we have up front. It only draws about 1/3rd the power and heats efficiently too, reducing our propane usage. We have no need to hook-up to power pedestals or run our generator anymore, as we can now run everything in our MH strictly off the sun, including A/C and heat from our heat pump 24/7 if needed.
By mounting the solar array on the side of our coach, we left the roof free to rack 8, 550w solar panels down the length of our 35ft Class A, 15" off the roof, above our AC, vents, etc. It shades our entire roof, allowing plenty of cooling air underneath, increasing solar output and reducing the heat load on the air conditioners. Our 4,400w array can run both our A/Cs, our household appliances and charge our batteries from solar at the same time, even in winter. We mounted a Sungold Power all-in-one 48V, 5,000W Inverter/100A charge controller/battery charger, breakers and another Lnex battery monitor on the wall in our bedroom, saving us space as well as money compared to a system built with individual components. Together with our redundant 560ah 12v bank, we have a total of 23.5 kwh of batteries onboard, kept charged by 5,020 watts of solar. We removed our old rooftop bedroom A/C and replaced it with an EG4 28.5 seer-2, 12k btu mini-split heat pump on the upper rear of our motorhome. It's super quiet and cools as well as our 14.5k btu soft start equipped Furrion we have up front, but only draws about 1/3rd the power. Our total budget for both 12v and 48v systems was around $11,500, including the $1,500 high-efficiency heat pump. We have no need to hook-up to power pedestals or run our generator anymore, as we run everything in our MH strictly off the sun
Great video, the problem we have in Australia is they have new policy since Nov 23 and if you go with a traditional setup you have to treat it like having a gas bottle connected inside, it must be vented to the outside and boxed in, we're not as lucky as North America, we live in a policy driven country, we can't even park our van conversions in a lot of the towns/cities if we don't have a plumbed in shower/sink/toilet due to policy, I still go with no shower and park on a local street overnight, and I use the Bluetti system due to the ease of installation. I don't like the idea of venting batteries to the outside elements, I think in Australia that would lead to dust/dirt getting onto the terminals and into the batteries and all the other components and having major issues in the middle of nowhere as most of Australia is remote, not good.
Thanks for the info. Sorry to hear about all the red tape!
Costco Next offers the 5kwh Independence Kit for $5699.00 Hard to beat.
The 5Kwh kit has more than enough power and capability for 90% of the builds out there.
Would love to see you compare a 48V system with victron and and ecoflow deltra pro. I think, for a van, the ecoflow system you choose is a bit overkill. the delta pro is now relatively at a good price, and expendable to 10,8kW. Thanks for the video, they are very helpfull for me!
The 70A DC output cap on the Ecoflow is the huge negative, at least in my case where I need to run a 12v a/c, fridge, and a bit of other stuff at the same time. I'd love to just get the drop-in system, even if it cost a bit more, but that hard 70A limit pretty much forces me to go Victron.
Thanks so much. Very timely. My builder is about to add the 10kw EcoFlow. I am concerned . The issue is the amps coming from the sprinter factory alternator. Just curious if you can run directly from a secondary alternator, right to the alternator port?
Yes. You can run either system off of a secondary alternator, although you are more limited in the amperage with Ecoflow.
@@thrivans thank you!
8@@vanjovi
I have an inverter attached to the car battery (by the auto electrician), then you plug in your PowerStations AC Adaptor and while you're driving you are charging your PowerStation, also EcoFlow have brought out an actual system that connects to the car battery and powers up the EcoFlow so fast, that's your best idea, that way you're not using Amps and being limited.
Ecoflow works great for my off grid home. The 15Kwh Power Kit I have delivers what it claims up to and more, I've pushed it to 4000w output(rated @ 3600w) with no problem, easy to install, can accept 4800w PV input, I don't need the DC output as I'm in a house, so no alternator, looks great and folks say it looks more like fine furniture, a little ego boost for me. Had it for a bout a year now... The problems, of course, CRAPPY firmware!!! Lights start bugging out, AC shuts down, PV stops charging, The Ecoflow Orange light of death starts flashing and all this after a firmware update!!!! And resolved by doing it again and sometimes again after that. My suggestion no more updates, after I found one that works I stopped updating now for months and all is good. Customer service is ok at best and not bad @ worst, They walked me thru the update mess situation. So yeah I like Ecoflow 💖
Great information. The scary part at the end. Cables short can’t extend? Well that’s wrong. I get it you push your best way to sell. People need to know TH-cam is always selling something.
Yeah exactly The cables are just cables You can extend them all you want they have one proprietary and on it just don't touch that end and you're fine
Small correction. The Victron Multiplus 3000 is measured in Volt Amps. Meaning it is 2,400 watt max capacity. I can tell you from experience with the a couple peoples Power Kits that they are overpriced garbage. Software issues since launch that STILL arent fixed. Seems to be a trend with Ecoflow products. Release half baked products and then never really support them.
Inverter from ecoflow is not 2200, it's 3600 so a win there
And what a comparison in the 2 builds, why just the cheap display with no cerbo gx on the victron side , i mean the ecoflow has the panel with full readout of the whole system, not fair really, also where is the bms from victron for the 4 batteries ?? At the end victron really is more expensive, u can't deny it. Bad comparison sir, keep on trying defend victron. I know u don't wanna lose your job as victron electrician in vans but this review is manipulated.
I have been running an Ecoflow Delta 2 Max with extra battery (4.2 kW hr capacity) in my Sprinter van for 6 months now and I highly recommend against using Ecoflow. It is unreliable and buggy. Within the first month the connection system to the extra battery failed and I had to replace the main unit under warranty. Since then the unit has required shutdown and rebooting every few days for various reasons such as random disconnecting from the iPhone app, which is the only way to change certain settings such as charge rate. Furthermore, DC charge rate is limited to about 500 watts per port and only if you push the voltage up towards 60 volts. So to charge faster you need to use a 2000 watt pure sine wave inverter. When charging on AC the Ecoflow passes through the AC and this is not configurable so you can’t charge on AC and use the Ecoflow inverter.
I highly regret buying Ecoflow and should have gone with a Victron system from the start. Don’t make my mistake as I curse my Ecoflow system every few days whenever something goes wrong.
Dang. So sorry to hear that you’re having these problems.
I will not go far into your video before saying this. I have both systems and the all in one systems are very convenient but also very expensive and not just to buy.
I accidentally pulled more than 8amps from an 8 amp plug (DC5521) in one of my old all in one systems. Smoke came out & the entire thing died (inverter, battery and all other plugs…dead).
I did the same thing to my “Victron” system and only my 30 amp fuse blew. I once also “accidentally” put an incompatible solar and only the fuse on my MPPT had to be replaced (the panel voltage was higher than what was allowed by the MPPT).
My all in one system might have been old and maybe didn’t have a bough protection for the individual circuits but the entire thing still died.
Very good points. Thanks for sharing.
I know the change is going to be painful but companies that build cars, trucks, and the like need to get the lead out that start converting their electrical systems to 48V. It will definitely have a painful initial ripple effect, but all of the huge, heavy wires and components with 12V systems are an incredible waste, are fairly expensive, and require tools that largely will gather dust after installation unless it's your trade. I'm just not feeling that noise, and I work with some of it. I love the idea of a 48V battery by itself, but you can see fairly quickly all of the conversion required to make 12v system play well with it...particularly when the batteries need a charge from other than solar.
Amen.
Watt-hours is actually the correct way to measure capacity. There is no real concept of an Amp-hour. It is a contrived sort of solution. A watt is volts x amps, then watts per hour are a measure of work. Amps are just amps.
Yup, I ride electric unicycles and we strictly go by watt hours, while scooters, e-bikes, esk8, etc all use amp hours which to me is useless lol
1.5 years traveling with my Victron system in a sprinter van and rate it a 9.5 out of 10
You just saved me. I was leaning toward Ecoflow until I saw this. Being down for weeks and weeks because of a cable they cannot be bothered to get out on time? Yeah, so long Ecoflow. Thanks brother!
Glad I could help. Good luck with your build.
x2 here. Thank you
He didn't save you, you will pay more with Victron. Alot more.😮
Great video! I’m looking for information as to EcoFlow distributors. I purchased a van with the 5 KW power kit. Having a few issues. I’ve been emailing with EcoFlow support with no real solution yet. Would really like some hands on help.Location Midwest. TIA
Sorry, but we don't work on Ecoflow systems. I hope you can find some help to get yours working. This is my biggest issue with Ecoflow and other all-in-1 systems. If something's not working, the whole system may have to be sent in for repair or replaced.
With a modular system like Victron, if something is not working, that component can be replaced. We have had inverters, Orions and MPPTs become faulty. we simply sent the customer a new unit (under warranty) and they were able to swap it out.
You seem like a sincere guy but your watt hour rating for the EcoFlow vs Battle Born battery does not look correct; Battle Born states their watt hour rating on their 100ah batteries as 1200wh. That means that four of those would only contain 4800wh. EcoFlow is as you stated; 5120wh. The inverter outputs are also are off; Victron uses volt amps and a power factor so their inverter only puts out 2400 watts continuous; the EcoFlow runs 3600 watts continuous.....that is 1200 watts difference favoring EcoFlow.
I install a lot of RV solar power systems and do Victron and I have to say that your conclusions conclusions are incorrect. You may have made an honest mistake but you really need to take this down and redo the video.
Ecoflow reached out to us about the error in output watts and we put a correction in the description, which was satisfactory to them. As far as the watt hours for the Battle Born batteries, we explained that we used a working voltage of 13.5. 400Ah X 13.5V = 5,400Wh.
Watt hours for 4 Battle Born batteries is 1200wh x 4 and that equals 4800 total watt hours. The Ecoflow battery has 5120wh. If you divide those numbers by 13.5 you get the actual amp hours available. There is no magical way to get more capacity out of the Battle Borns than the EcoFlows.
The main drawback of Ecoflow is that you can't add more batteries. And thats a huge drawback! I just don't understand why Ecoflow chose to severely limit their system like this. In almost all other areas Ecoflow is better especially the fact that it doesn't require you to programming anything. But considering the huge drawback I chose Victron for my van without a sec thought.
that incorrect. You can add batteries.
Another great "Teaching Session" with Jeff!!!!
Great explaining how they both work for the average joe,but i think the all in one will win,it is a throwaway world we live in unfortunately. 😢
all these volts and amps sound like magic incantation. I'll probably go get XkW ecoflow solution😅
Looking forward to your updated narrative once you become an EcoFlow distributor. LMAO
Thanks for the video - however you missed a very important point which make the Eco Flow lithium systems far superior to Battle born and others. It has to do with the fact the Eco Flow lithium batteries are 51 volts rather than 12 volts. This means they operate using 75 less amperage for the same load verses 12 volts. Less amperage means less heat and losses and higher discharge and charging abilities. In addition, the Eco Flow inverter, up and down converters all operate cooler thanks to low amperage.
If you would like more information on 51 volt systems look over my non sponsored 51 volt dual voltage dual Inverter RV system Thanks Mike
5112 dual Voltage Lithium System
th-cam.com/video/ZxSS44przNs/w-d-xo.html
Battery systems are like fishing lure colors the fish don’t really care they just wana eat lure colors attract fisherman not fish so technically any system will work for you just pick what you think will work best like me after watching vids hanging out with others in Real World Van Life n RVsand have seen to plus n minuses of almost every system now I picked what should work for me it’s all trail n error
This is misimformation. Please get a better understanding of the Ecoflow system before speaking.
I build my own systems. Once you learn how, it's easy. I learned how from Will Prowse. He's a little genius on all things solar. Have two (2) stand alone 1208ah systems. Each system, sans solar panels only cost me about $1,000. I buy the raw Li Fe PO4 302wh batteries and stack 4 of them together for each system. Victron is nice but way overpriced for today's market.
- I use one system and charge the other; rotating.
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The key, to me, living in a van is insulation.
I pretty much live in a giant icebox. Easy to cool, and to heat. I'm surrounded by 2" of xps foam. The living compartment is separate from the driving part of the van.
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Will is a genius. I’ve learned a lot from him and Nate at Explorist.
Trying to keep installers in a job 😉 You are right it's Apple vs Android in the power station world!
Explorist awesome
I see builds where they spend so much money on all kind of mods. Then using an Ecoflow or similar instead of building real house battery system. For me it’s difficult to understand
Agreed.
Here’s the real issue, any electrical equipment, runs on watts. That is the unit of power. A 60 W lightbulb doesn’t care how much voltage or amperage it gets, as long as it gets 60 W. That is an ongoing issue with these electrical component manufacturers. Everything has to be displayed in watts, otherwise it makes no sense.
This review is way off
Or based on some misstated info maybe not
To me you are selling your stuff! Great analysis however. Big issue cost of install component system. Also selling food in middle presentation not a good look.
I still vote EcoFlow.
Yup, I have the Power kit off grid situation, been working great now for about a year.
Eco no
Biased video. 3,600 Ecoflow option is more advanced.
Other factors are install costs. This varies wildly and can be misleading.
The simple fact that you are an installer is implying bias and you should recuse yourself from such activities.
And why EcoFlow vs Bluettie or other out of the box battery storage inverter manufacturers?
You may not realize that your comparisons are so skewed, which would be my largest concern.
I normally do not comment on comparison videos but this is one of the most unjust that I have seen.
I’m neither for or against either of the systems you are comparing but have enough understanding of the lines that both have advantages and disadvantages but to the degree when factoring in the install seems simply irresponsible. But it’s your channel so…
I would hope that you adjust your evaluation or it casts a shadow on the rest of your channel IMHO.
This guy is not telling accurate information
Care to explain?
Instead of coming off like a total dick, you should explain why.
My knowledge is getting better little by little but it is an overwhelming process of watching a lot of videos, and one thing I can confidently say is that the “Thriving Life” videos are absolutely the best on TH-cam and whoever made this comment is the one who is misleading people! That being said I’m sure that Jeff has monetized his channel and is making some money from the views, but it is clear that his motivation and his character is all about helping people. Given that I’m 61, I don’t know if I will ever be able to build out my own camper van conversion, but if it does happen a big reason will be the guidance that Jeff unselfishly provides people who choose to take on this kind of project!
@@bgzwlz5119I’m 61, and I’m doing it for the first time in the next few months. Stick at it.
Ecoflow is poor quality, unsafe and generally awful. Victron every time without hesitation.