I didn't buy into the wash for awhile but now once I learned how to use it I'm very happy with it, for me the good news is that with a little water you can remove any mistakes, thanks for showing us your method.
Tip: If your new to the hobby, or on your first model, I don't recommend putting that much all at once. go section by section, not all washes just wipe off like that.
I have a question that requires context. I have a lung condition and i am unable to use laquer paints and thinners as the fumes agravate the condition. What acrylic wash can I make that can wipe off with water or IPA (although my IPA attempts seem to have been rather agressive in removing the wash) ? I limit mask wearing to only when I rattle can spray gloss and matt varnishes as it is quick.
I purchased your wash line. I am trying to sludge wash an overall surface. But not only, wanting the wash to behave as a pin wash, but also tint the flat panels slightly. Toning down the overall color evenly. Any suggestions? I would expect your washes require a flat coat to seal them in.
Hi. Good video. Could I use panel liner as a wash? Looks like your wash is water-based whereas panel line solution is usually enamel based and wouldn't be removed with a damp paper towel.
HI, The product you show in this video (the wash) seems very helpful to me and with your shop´s very reasonable prizes id like to buy it. tho i could not find it in said shop so could you perhaps tell me how to find it or even send me a direct link, id be pleasured!
So I have a couple of comments regarding this approach to washes. This is not a criticism, but rather an opening for a conversation. If the surface is glossed and most of the wash is wiped off, then is there any real advantage of this approach over using a finer brush to apply a more focus wash to the panel lines? Granted, it might take less time to apply the wash in bulk over a focused approach, but there is much less to wipe off this way and it's less expensive (doesn't use up the wash so quickly). I have seen how this bulk application approach can be used to dirty up a pristine paint surface but typically it is done over a matte surface and probably using either enamel washes or oil washes and then with less vigorous wiping. I suspect a Flory wash would work for this as well. This brings up another point of discussion, namely, the order of application of washes and oil weathering. It has been my experience that applying the panel line wash before overcoating and then applying an oil weathering, tends to hide some of the panel line highlighting and it needs to be reapplied in certain areas. I have switched the order of my weathering in order to alleviate this. Either way, after completing each segment of work, I always apply another clear coat to protect that work before proceeding on to the other work.
Hey wondering if you could help. I’m making a model using loads of different items beer cans, bottles, glasses, plastic cups… What would be the best technique to age them and it be permanent. Thx, love the technique featured above just not sure if it would work for my purpose. P.S I’m a bit of a noob at this.
Aging can take on more than one approach depending upon the underlying material. Metal can be aged before it is used in assembly, however, it almost always needs additional work after assembly to make it look right. Most modelers do any weathering (aging) after assembly using oils, pigments, enamel washes, or acrylic washes. They then protect the finish with overcoats of either gloss or matte clear coats. It is often advantageous to overcoat between applications of different weathering techniques to protect them from subsequent work. One thing to be careful of is the compatibility of each layer with the layer underneath or the the next layer to be applied. They usually need to be different when using a clear coat as protection so that any use of thinners, alcohol, or mineral spirits doesn't wipe away the underlying clear or other layers. So for example, a model is painted in camouflage using enamel paints. Then it is overcoated with an acrylic clear gloss for decal application. Then another clear or matte clear after decal application in order to protect those from the weathering layers. Let's say you use oils to do the weathering. You would want to use an acrylic clear coat under that so that when you work the oils with mineral spirits, it won't attack the clear coat. Then another clear coat to protect that. There are numerous ways to attack this problem so test out your approach before using it on the model.
I didn't buy into the wash for awhile but now once I learned how to use it I'm very happy with it, for me the good news is that with a little water you can remove any mistakes, thanks for showing us your method.
Tip: If your new to the hobby, or on your first model, I don't recommend putting that much all at once. go section by section, not all washes just wipe off like that.
Looking good 👍
Thanks 👍
Hello, a question. Is the model varnished with acrylic varnish?
I have a question that requires context. I have a lung condition and i am unable to use laquer paints and thinners as the fumes agravate the condition. What acrylic wash can I make that can wipe off with water or IPA (although my IPA attempts seem to have been rather agressive in removing the wash) ? I limit mask wearing to only when I rattle can spray gloss and matt varnishes as it is quick.
this should do it mate www.genessis-models.co.uk/videos/weathering-wash-sludge-wash-for-panel-lines-tutorial-2-0/
I purchased your wash line. I am trying to sludge wash an overall surface. But not only, wanting the wash to behave as a pin wash, but also tint the flat panels slightly. Toning down the overall color evenly. Any suggestions? I would expect your washes require a flat coat to seal them in.
Hi. Good video. Could I use panel liner as a wash? Looks like your wash is water-based whereas panel line solution is usually enamel based and wouldn't be removed with a damp paper towel.
Yes, absolutely you just apply it like a pin wash and remove with thinners
HI, The product you show in this video (the wash) seems very helpful to me and with your shop´s very reasonable prizes id like to buy it.
tho i could not find it in said shop so could you perhaps tell me how to find it or even send me a direct link, id be pleasured!
what did you use to remove the wash, enamel thinner?
just water mate
@@genessismodels but what if the paints I used are water based?, this process not remove both layers? 🤔
Is the wash accrilic?
Maybe my obsession of clean very much, i like how this look but i somehow rather keep my model kits clean like just came out of factory 🤣🤣🤣
So I have a couple of comments regarding this approach to washes. This is not a criticism, but rather an opening for a conversation. If the surface is glossed and most of the wash is wiped off, then is there any real advantage of this approach over using a finer brush to apply a more focus wash to the panel lines? Granted, it might take less time to apply the wash in bulk over a focused approach, but there is much less to wipe off this way and it's less expensive (doesn't use up the wash so quickly). I have seen how this bulk application approach can be used to dirty up a pristine paint surface but typically it is done over a matte surface and probably using either enamel washes or oil washes and then with less vigorous wiping. I suspect a Flory wash would work for this as well.
This brings up another point of discussion, namely, the order of application of washes and oil weathering. It has been my experience that applying the panel line wash before overcoating and then applying an oil weathering, tends to hide some of the panel line highlighting and it needs to be reapplied in certain areas. I have switched the order of my weathering in order to alleviate this. Either way, after completing each segment of work, I always apply another clear coat to protect that work before proceeding on to the other work.
Hey wondering if you could help. I’m making a model using loads of different items beer cans, bottles, glasses, plastic cups… What would be the best technique to age them and it be permanent. Thx, love the technique featured above just not sure if it would work for my purpose. P.S I’m a bit of a noob at this.
Aging can take on more than one approach depending upon the underlying material. Metal can be aged before it is used in assembly, however, it almost always needs additional work after assembly to make it look right. Most modelers do any weathering (aging) after assembly using oils, pigments, enamel washes, or acrylic washes. They then protect the finish with overcoats of either gloss or matte clear coats. It is often advantageous to overcoat between applications of different weathering techniques to protect them from subsequent work. One thing to be careful of is the compatibility of each layer with the layer underneath or the the next layer to be applied. They usually need to be different when using a clear coat as protection so that any use of thinners, alcohol, or mineral spirits doesn't wipe away the underlying clear or other layers.
So for example, a model is painted in camouflage using enamel paints. Then it is overcoated with an acrylic clear gloss for decal application. Then another clear or matte clear after decal application in order to protect those from the weathering layers. Let's say you use oils to do the weathering. You would want to use an acrylic clear coat under that so that when you work the oils with mineral spirits, it won't attack the clear coat. Then another clear coat to protect that.
There are numerous ways to attack this problem so test out your approach before using it on the model.
Great video btw :-)
Thanks! 😁
Scary!
Смывку наносить после лака ? . Или разницы нет.
Is 2 coats necessary? Just bought this stuff for the first time.
you can get away with 1 coat but I find two does makes sure its everywhere
ffs... another hobbyist that uses spit on the models and eats paint. What is wrong with y'all people??
It's the fun part bro! I even sniff lacquer thinner for a few minutes before starting to work on any of my models!