How to fill AWKWARD gaps and seams - scale model building tutorial
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 เม.ย. 2022
- In this video I am going to demonstrate my preferred way of filling gaps when there is limited access and/or details that should be preserved.
Here are the tools and materials I use in this tutorial:
- Tamiya fine craft saws: amzn.to/3EF5mZE
- AK White Acrylic Putty (hard): amzn.to/3unmYXt
- Precision Tip Cotton Swabs: amzn.to/3E0AN11
- TAMIYA Masking Tape, 2mm: amzn.to/3DQH937
- Mr. Finishing Surfacer 1500 Gray: amzn.to/3JiWhHr
#scalemodel #mmscalemodels #plasticmodel
Disclaimers:
This video is not intended for persons under 14 years of age. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
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I am a diabetic and have no feeling in my hands and tend go heavy on the sanding and wipe out a lot of the details and this tip will help me a lot. Thank You.
Great to know I can help someone 👍
Tapered swabs! That was the secret ingredient I was missing. Thanks for this very useful tip!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the tip--the masking does help with keeping down the amount of the model that needs excessive sanding.
You are welcome 👍
Great tip!!! Nice to have a fairly easy method of filling in gaps like that.
Thanks for watching mate 👍
LIKED!!! I didn’t sub because I’m not a model builder (yet). But if I happen to get into model building, I will definitely be subscribing. You did a great job of getting your point across verbally and visually. I really think your method of demonstration is extremely effective. In my limited model building experience (less than 5 kits in about 30yrs), I would have probably just applied the putty and sanded it down. I know it would have turned out bad, but I would not have known to do it the way you showed had I not watched your video. I’m currently looking for an evening hobby that I can do while spending the evening next to my wife while she reads, watches tv, or does one of her hobbies. Model building comes up a lot, but I don’t have much interest in most of the types of models available, and some of the skills needed to turn out amazing models are a bit daunting to me due to nerve issues in my hands, elbows, and shoulders. Your simplification of this process does make it seem a little more achievable. Now, if I could only find models of things I’m interested in.
I love it when you say putty 😂😂😂
Oh well, I hope it is not something ridiculous
Another great tip, i find most, if not all, of your videos to be of some direct use in the hobby, thank you for making them.
Thanks, that's my goal 👍
I seen or heard about this type of seam filling with lacquer based putty , but never thought of it when using water based. So thank you for this how to.
I personally find the lacquer technique quite messy so for me this is a better option.
Brilliant. Why didnt i think of this. Because hes more clever than me. Simples. Ive spent hours messing up filler and creating more problems than solving them. Tape,water,cotton buds. Not rotary sanders that melt or files that do GBH to plastic,rivet and seam lines. Suddenly that wing root filling job seems totally do-able. Thank you friend. Great video,to the point :-)
Yeah, someone has been clever enough to invent tis product. The rest... we got lucky to find it earlier than you 😉
Wow, a fantastic idea! So simple and can be used in SO many applications! Thank you!!
Thanks for watching mate!
This also works well with Milliput epoxy putty. Sometimes I use a brush or even just my finger wet with water and keep whiping till I'm left with the desired amount of putty just in the seam.
Also with Tamiya 2k epoxy putty
I am going to do this on my next build, thank you for this great advice.
Been using this technique for years and can confirm it works great and is super easy. Like someone already commented I also use Vallejo putty, but any water soluble works. You can buy the pointy swabs at any beauty shop or department cheap.
I was sceptical about the acrylic putties for quite a while but they are legit.
Great tutorial! Thanks!!!
You are welcome!
Another great tutorial 😊
Practical and clear, thank you. Ian
Thanks Ian, appreciated!
Ha!! Great tip - I need right now on my PT109 commission build. Perfect timing !! Thank you - and good detail on re-scribing too.
Thanks mate 🍻
I never tough of using putty with masking tape 😂😂. Thanks a lot! It will save a lot of sanding time and rescribing
Yes its very handy 👍
Great video!
Thanks mate!
Awesome technique, very useful! Thanks for sharing 👍🏻
Thanks for watching mate 👍
Great way to do that! I'm going to try it out for sure.
Hope it works fine for you too.
Great tip, can't believe I didn't know this one.
Always learning :) thats in the DNA of this hobby.
Awesome tip Thankyou!!
Happy to help!
Very informative, thank you!
thanks for watching mate!
Very cool info, thank you!!
Glad it was helpful!
Great tutorial! Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching mate!
Great tip, I'm going to try it out.
Hope it works for you
Very nice tutorial, super helpful. Thank you! :)
Great to hear 👍
Excellent info, awesome video, straight forward and to the point. 😁👍
Thanks mate 👍
Thank you ! Super Nice tip !
Thanks mate 👍
Masking tape… why didn’t I think of that earlier lol. Great video thx
You are welcome!
Great tutorial broham, simple and to the point!👍
Glad you like it mate!
Excellent work and great technique. Very pleasing to watch! Thank you! all the best, Rob in Switzerland
Glad to hear that, thanks Rob!
Thanks for your típs, now I am starting again with my models following your ideas, thanks a lot
Thanks for watching mate!
very cool idea! might have to give this a try on a gunpla model soon 😊
It works well on anything IMO
This is super useful thank you! :)
Great, thanks for watching mate 👍
Thanks for video, I tend to use Vallejo plastic putty and a similar technique but remove and smooth most of the putty straight away with a wet Q tip.
I tried that but I smear too much putty all over which is not to my liking.
Thanks my good man....awesome tip! Peace!
You are welcome mate!
Great Tutorial - Subd! Thank you for sharing.
Welcome aboard 👍
Great tutorial Metodi
Thanks Harry 👍
Hey mate, another great tip from one on the masters of this hobby, take care and keep safe my friend, best regards from Australia
Thanks Les, appreciated :)
Great information. Thanks 👌
Thanks for watching mate 👍
Thank you for this video
Thanks for watching mate!
Thanks for the info 👍
You are welcome 👍
I didn't know I needed to know this lol, I'm just now getting into modifying Star Wars vehicles. I need different speeder bikes and hasbros not making new models yet. Thanks buddy 👍
Check out Bandai, they have some a good selection of Star Wars kits.
Great tutorial. Pretty sure that'd work great with milliput as well!
Thanks, yes it does but it is not the same technique cause if you let the milliput dry good luck removing it with water :)
Thank you! I am using Vallejo putty with great success, which I guess is just another water soluble putty.
I guess they are all similar.
Great ideas as usual. I'd like to see you do a rundown on the explosion of paints and thinners that have me confused.
Thanks, that's a good Idea!
excellent thank you
Thanks for watching mate!
Great tip! Water-based putty is the way to go!
Sometimes, when I use other brands like Tamiya, I use Gunze thinner to clean off the excess.
Which one?
@@MMScaleModels usually when building aircraft, especially at the wing roots. I would use Tamiya putty and while not fully cured, wipe off the excess with a q-tip dipped in Gunze thinner. Afterwards, I switched to Vallejo putty and it was easier now with water.
Thank you
You're welcome
As usual, your TUTOS are more than welcome... I wish there could be a similar solution when dealing with those horrible gaps in 1/35 figures, between arms and body, and the soldier is german and using winter gear...😁
Thanks mate, I am pretty sure you can use the same technique for the figures.
great ,thanks a lot
You're welcome 👍
I didn't know excess putty could be removed with a damp qtip, I always resorted to sanding which is incredibly annoying.
That's true for acrylic putty though
Nice work..
Thanks you!
Nice presentation
Thanks mate 👍
I like Dude😀TFS (thanks for sharing), GB :)
Thanks for watching mate!
Putting masking tape is good idea❤
keeps things cleaner :)
Thanks very much for the video... nice tips, helpful and fun to watch,
If you are in Ukraine, I hope that you are safe. Even if you are NEAR Ukraine, I hope you are safe!
Thanks mate! I am Bulgarian... still a bit too close for comfort.
Awesome!
Thank You for the information!!!!
I'll put it to good use!
Blessings
Darrell killingsworth
Thanks for watching mate!
Just use a pva glue/water 50/50 mix, no sanding, leave to dry and re-apply. Simple
I do the same - cool tip - but different putties work for me - I find the Tamiya. Mt Hobby dries too quickly, and appears to be oil based (don't like the water, turn all marbly...) - and have found the Vallejo the best for this work - the qtip just takes the surface away smoothly - I just used this technique to fix up a butty queen - the XB70 1/72 from AMT!! Oh my gosh!! Yeah!! I use this technique even for wing and body joins... it's a winner.
Something I forgot is that tamiyas 2K epoxy putty can be used in the same manner and it works if some more strength is necessary.
I would use a q tip to wipe away a lot of the putty while it's still wet, saving time and effort later on.
Actually, you can do the same with any solvent based putty too, such as Tamiya or Gunze. It just needs a bit more time to cure, like 30-60 minutes and then can be easily wiped off with the Tamiya Lacquer Thinner.
You can but there is a risk for damaging the plastic.
@@MMScaleModels why? Idk, maybe there are some putty's that can melt the plastic, but most of them are 100% safe as well as the Lacquer Thinner
@@MMScaleModels ah - I just posted the same info re the solvent-based (I said oil) - agree 100%...
Lacquer thinner melts styrene plastic.
Use iso alcohol, as per the instructions for those putties. Works great, doesn’t damage plastic.
This is a Great 'How To...", I am also a model builder, and started on my first A/C after Many years, and I have a situation, Just Like Your Video!!
I tried using an Acrylic Putty, but when I wet-sanded...the putty came un-done.....;(
But This vid, will help me redo the project.........I might Even buy those 'Percision Tip Cotton Swabs'!!!
Yes this is temperamental product but once you get the hang of it, it works well
@@MMScaleModels Thanks for the help!! Seriously, I look forward in building my other planes, MayBe I'll present one here ...on This post. Was reading the other posts, saw somebody using Tamiya putty with lacquer thinner......I did that once, stuffing a bunch of putty into the nose radome of an EA-6B Intruder, went to sleep, next morning.......WRECK (broken) Nose!!! Never again used it!
If you need to fill big gaps what you really need is either plastic shims or 2 part epoxy putty. The basic type modeling putty shrinks way too much and has no structural rigidity.
@@MMScaleModels Yes, right...fortunately I have not have that happen, yet.....
No, for me, what happen was that I treated that putty as a wet/dry sand putty...adding water to start the sanding, and saw it fall apart and the gap re-appeared. Yikes!!
But the use of those shaped Q-Tips, dipped slightly in water, I Think that will work well!
Thanks for all the comments/replies...I hope you can continue helping me.
I really like the white putty and masking tape idea. Glad to see that the damp q tip can remove it. But why not smooth it down more before it dries? The way people do with dry wall plaster?
For two reasons. First of, putty shrinks, so if you remove the excess while it is still wet you wount have the extra to compensate for the shrinkage. Second, I find that the q-tip drags some material from the gap so it ends up needing more applications.
@@MMScaleModels Super that is great to know. I am going to give this a try.
Nice work man. What kit is that? Very useful I've saved this for later.
Thanks mate, this is ICM's 1/48th Invader.
I already painted most of my aircraft, can I still use the putty on gaps that I have on my plane
That's why it is advisable to give it some time to apply the primer and then re apply the putty if necessary. It's true for almost every putty to shrink over time.
When you think of all the things you need to 'fix' when putting a model together, it almost puts one off from taking the hobby up again.
You guessed it, I got a dozen boxes sitting on the shelf and too freaked out to start any of them!
That's why you should not think of that stuff and deal with it as you go... can you imagine how many people would have never attempted anything cool and challenging if they knew all the potential set backs. Imagine you are just starting to restore your first vintage car.... boy are you in for surprises :)
@@MMScaleModels Ha, ha, thanks. I guess I need a kick in the pants. But to regain some self-respect, it's good to think ahead - but yeah, not that good.
It was the same when I was going to tile my bathroom and kitchen to the point where I hounded the guys from the local tile store until I knew every little thing. But hey, I did a good job, better than most professionals, but it took me a long time to learn, and a lot of tools, a lot of reading and watching videos - OH kinda like I'm doing now with modelling!
But I do appreciate chaps such as yourself sharing the knowledge and the skills you have. AND taking the time to make videos.
Cheers. Stay safe.
Sir hi, please tell me where I can find drawing for rivets on different aircraft's i.e. placing of rivets on their wings & fuselage. Thanks
Sometimes (for more popular aircraft) you can be lucky and find them on google, other wise - reference books.
Does this work with Vallejo putty? How do you restore lost small detail? Like if only a few rivets are covered up and a riveting wheel will not work in the awkward space?
Yes it works with any acrylic putty. You can restore rivets using a needle or appropriately sized drill bit.
Will water work with Tamiya putty or should use an appropriate solvent in that case?
Water will not work with solvent based putties. however you can try with Mr.Hobby solvent based acrylics thinner which will be less aggressive on the plastic.
Have you ever tried using black super glue like Starbond or Loctite to fill gaps?
Yes I use CA to fill gaps but it needs sanding which is not ideal in some cases.
@@MMScaleModels CA debonder can be used to avoid sanding just like you are using water in your video.
One thing that I like to do is give the putty time to settle in. I’ve seen putty shrink. It’s annoying, but I’d rather be patient and have it work the first time.
Yes, thats good point. My take is that i will have to do a second pass anyways due to A pinhole 😄
isn´t it better toi use lacquer based putty and lacquer thinner for more durability (if you know that you will scribe over the seam)?
I don't think lacquer based putties are any better when it comes to scribing... just as hard and brittle.
Does this work with Tamiya putty?
I don't know a tamiya putty that is acrylic, so if i am not wrong, you cannot apply this technique to the tamiya putty.
yes, but instead of water you use lacquer thinner. So it is usable onle before you paint the kit
Mr Surfacer was made for these kinds of gaps.
Mr surfacer is for filling scratches at best. It will take a lot of layers for the 500 to fill such gap. Not impossible but not ideal either IMO
I think gap-filling CA glue would do a better and quicker job than putty. In fact, I've gotten away from using putty in almost every instance.
You still have to sand the CA glue while the excess acrylic putty can be handled without sanding.
Just a comment for the algorithm
👍
I was shown years ago a trick , a guy had liquid paper you know the stuff to cover up pen or typewriter mistakes, he used liquid paper to fill seems and gaps.. and it will sand and clean up with water.. it works great on small holes and minor seems.. and it's cheap
Thanks for sharing!
@@MMScaleModels your welcome!
I have discovered that the best to clean off acrilic putty like Vallejo or AK, instead of water, are isopropyl alcohol and acetone.
Acetone might be a bit on the edge, it can smear the plastic.
Does the isopropyl alcohol work for tamiya putty too?
@@supersonicboom4990 Yes, but I haven't tried it when the putty is fully cured. It might work, but surely you will need to rub a lot. BTW, we're talking about the regular Tamiya putty, the grey one.
@@daniellabra4186 I'm using the white one! I use to thinning it with mr.levenig thinner but I dont know if I can you the same thinner for this cleaning technique!
@@supersonicboom4990 I haven't use it with Tamiya white putty. I will test it today and I'll tell you what happens... 😬
Thank you
You are welcome!
I discovered a new way, Mr.Surfacer 500 and a toothpic. No masking needed and 100% perfect
I use that only for scratches or seam lines... a gap will take quite a lot of surfacer and drying time IMO
Not for big gaps. Great primer and scratch remover but you'd need a gallon for some wing roots