Practice Practice Practice. I typically buy really cheap models, even the snap together kits. I don't assemble. Instead, I Practice painting or weathering.
@@spruetherapy Also, thanks for this video, I think being able to apply oils which I've only tinkered with so far is what makes models look great, and this video has helped me realise how easy it is to try.
Thank you very much for this tutorial. I have been searching for a way to do the "white" on a series of Coastal Command aircraft. Nothing seemed to hit the spot and this does it for me. I have been looking for something that will copy the box art on Airfix's Whitley. Never used oils before just washes, panel washes and some dry brushing for hilights. I have a Bristol so I'll copy your technique before I do the Wellington, Halifax, and Sunderland. While TH-cam is a wonderful tool you can easily get information overload. I much prefer to stick with someone's system and then develop it as my own. A Happy New Year 2024 to you.
What I would say, a few years on from making this video is that I was quite heavy handed in this video, but it helped show it. I would be a lot more subtle for a display model. Good luck with your Coastal Command aircraft!
I would like to ask some things about final coat. When should I use glossy, matt and semigloss as final coat? And what about planes with metallic colours
Hi Peter. The final coat is personal preference and more about how the real aircraft's finish looked. For WW2-era fighters, most seem to be matt or semi-matte. More modern aircraft might lean towards gloss. But the best bet would be to look at reference pictures to get a good idea of the finish of the aircraft you are building. For metallic, I generally use a gloss finish to keep the metallic sheen. I hope that helps!
@@spruetherapy thank you very much. Just 1 more question. I would like to change my enamel paints for acrylic ones because it is cheaper and i am gonna do metallic aircraft. What would you recommend me to buy for that? I mean like what primer, paint, varnishes. And maybe some tips you could give me. I hope I am not asking too much.
Thank you very much for a wonderful lesson. Tell me a couple of questions: 1) should oil paint be applied to varnish or can it be applied to acrylic paint? 2) is the brush for shading dry or dipped in white spirit?
You can do both, however I would recommend applying after you've sealed the underlying paint in with a varnish. In this video I used a gloss varnish as it's then easier to remove oils if they go wrong.
Your Beaufighter already has black-ish panel lines from the very first time that it shows up in the video (at 0:34). Then in the video you proceed to add brownish panel lines. How did you get the initial (black-ish) panel lines?
@@spruetherapy Sorry that I am so late answering, but I did not notice your response until just now. That clarifies a lot for me! I had noticed your "Easy Panel Line Wash ..." video, but I had not put two and two together until now that this was also YOU. The voice sounded familiar, but ... 😀 When I first saw your "Easy Panel Line Wash ..." video, the method seemed crazy to me: What? You are going to start by smearing the entire model?? 🤯 But then I thought more about it, and in fact about a week ago I ordered the Flory Models Dark Dirt Weathering Wash. It's due to arrive the day after tomorrow. I can't wait to try it! In regard to how marked panel lines should be, I decided that I won't be using the pencils. They may very well be more realistic in regard to their subtleness in comparison to what you get with the pinwash or the Flory methods, but I found that, after I made the pencil lines, they look like ... pencil lines! "Who has been scribbling on this airplane with a giant pencil??" So I am also changing my mind in regard to this. Paraphrasing the great Martin Kovac (a.k.a. "Nightshift"), "There are some unrealistic things that are done by modelists that make models look more real." (Sorry, but I can't replicate his accent and his inimitable style of saying it!) I had never thought of this before. To me, the perfect model used to be one that, in a photo, you would not be able to tell if it was a photo of a model or a photo of the real thing. But seeing things live is different from seeing them in a photo. There is a weird psychological factor that comes into play with scale models, something I never would have guessed until very recently. We can look, for example, to the issue of needing to lighten colors with decreasing scale of the model. I have seen someone explain this in terms of distance: Just like in a Renaissance painting the mountains in the background need to be painted lighter than they really are (due to the presence of dust in the air: more dust with greater distance), you can think of a small scale model as the real thing, but farther away from the viewer, and therefore its colors need to be lightened up. That would be a true physical reason for having to lighten up the colors of smaller scale models. But Manuel Conde (a modelist from Spain) thinks it has nothing to do with "distance". He told me that he used to sell furniture, and that his customers often complained that their furniture was lighter-colored than the small wood sample that they had been shown. But the furniture WAS the same color as the sample. The human mind perceives small things as darker than big things, even though their true colors may be identical. This second explanation does not show a physical reason, but a psychological reason. Who'da thunk that psychology had anything to do with modeling? In the same way, I am ready to accept that darker panel lines may be acceptable even though, strictly speaking, they are not realistic. Again, as Martin Kovac would say, ...
@@jesusdapena1296 Thanks for watching. That's some interesting theory there and something I've thought about before (being an art student years ago). I think Modelling is also a form of expression, just like painting on a canvas and you can choose to replicate real life or take a more expressionistic approach. The beauty of it is, you get to choose and no one can tell you that you are wrong. We all see things differently too, both with our eyes and psychologically. At least, that's what I think. I wish I sounded as cool as Uncle Night Shift instead of my dull South England accent! :D
@@spruetherapy I am not an artist by any stretch of the imagination. I mean, I can freehand-draw an elephant that won't make you think it's a hippo, but that is about my limit! (Thank you, trunk, tusks and toes!) In scale modeling, I am a stickler for realism, rather like Bill Halliwell, and I don't give myself much leeway. It's just that lately I am starting to re-think what realism actually is. 🤔 In the view from the USA, your south-England accent does not sound boring at all, although I do enjoy hearing the wide variety of British accents that one finds in TH-cam scale modeling. Lately, I am particularly getting a kick out of the ones that pronounce "blood" as rhyming with "mood", because it's so startling to an ear used to hear BBC News as the only British pronunciation!
@@jesusdapena1296 Haha, I am not much for sketching animals but I can do a passable honeybadger! :D I am definitely more of an artistic modeller but it was because I've spent years looking at other models instead of the real thing. I've tried to be more realistic on my latest build a few months back which was the Tamiya P47D. It certainly took a lot of willpower not to make super dark panel lines! Accents are funny things, and the English accent is so varied across the land but in most films we're either really posh (what-ho chaps) or cockney (allo guvner).
The final result in the Beaufighter looks nice to a certain extent, but you end up not only with darkened panel lines (which is good, of course!), but unfortunately also with a darkened panel area next to each panel line (which is not so good). The Wildcats show the same problem. The Spitfire is much better, with only a few darkened panels. And the 109 doesn't show the problem at all! Did you use a different technique for the 109, or did you clean up the darkened panels at the end?
As I said, with the oils I tend to exaggerate and I especially did in this video so that it shows up in the video a lot clearer. In the end, it's down to you how you want your models to look, I quite like the artsty look to my models. It's not all that realistic but it makes me happy. So do what makes you happy I say! :)
I don't think think I was using oils on the panels back then. Edit: Actually, I did use a lot of oils on the 109. I like them as they act as a filter too changing the overall colour.
@@jesusdapena1296 I think on the 109 I was probably just using muted tones. So a brownish oil paint over the already brown surface colour and I didn't go too mad in the panel lines! I have a new build video coming soon, hope you like it!
Hi great video, I am thinking of using oil paints on a large Millennium falcon model after base coat but I am interested to know can you paint acrylic over oil paint? For example if I wanted to do some chipping Thanks.
Hi, yes although I would let the oil paints dry completely and then put another coat of varnish of first. Might be okay without the varnish, provided you've left enough time for the oil paints to fully cure. Which can be weeks! Thanks!
Your tutorial was both informative and well presented. Tidy work! I have just started modelling with an airbrush and I'm still learning about weathering and using varnishes. I am now using the AK Gauzy Agent like you for gloss finishes (after almost 3 weeks I'm still waiting for my Vallejo rattle can varnish to cure!). I was wondering what matt varnish you use and how you apply it? I would appreciate your advice as I'm loathe to use a rattle can again. Cheers
Hi Ryan, glad you enjoyed my video and thanks for watching. For matte varnish I currently use Ammomig Lucky Matte varnish. It's not super flat but I really like the semi matte look that it gives and you don't need to thin it before spraying with the airbrush. I spray it over the model at about 18psi and usually I'll do a couple of coats in the same session. Ak Gauzy is excellent and I'm still using it as my main gloss coat too. Thank you for watching! Dan
@@spruetherapy thank you for the response, much appreciated! I will certainly check out that varnish. I look forward to viewing more of your content. Cheers, Ryan
Thanks for the video. I'm new to weathering and kind of confused. Many of the videos I've seen the oils are mixed with thinner and then applied? Is this just a different technique for doing the same thing?😊
How do you get the faded panel look? Do you go over the seams with an airbrush or what? I'm just trying to achieve the look before you started anything in this video before adding the stains. Thanks!
Brill, I thoroughly enjoyed it. Not been at bench for a while. Fantastic and your one very talented. Your oils I've always used Abteilung and Winsor and Newton. However, I've scaled cave back and want to try the Works Oils and or Home Bargains ones. Home Bargains are around £1.50. I gave tried them a bit bac, and to be honest, not much difference really. We all know that the Abteilung ones are leagues a head and that's my opinion, but we all have different opinions and thoughts. Opinions are like " Bottom Holes " ..... everybody has one !!! . Stay safe to family, and yourself. When I'm back in Cave and doing vids, I'll give you a few shout outs. Fantastic and your Talent needs to be spread ( hopefully not Carona ) for more people to see your work and enjoy. Regards, Steve
Hey Steve, thanks for the kind words. Oils definitely do vary from brand to brand but the cheap one's can work well too. I find some of the more expensive oils have a lot more actual oil in them so they take a lot longer to dry out. Yep, we all have our own way to do things and there's multiple ways to get the same result! It's about whatever works for you really! Stay safe nad hope you can get back to modelling soon! Dan
Generally gloss is good for this method as you can easily wipe it off. Matte varnish is good for grunge and stains as it settles into the tiny recesses of the matte finish. Satin is a halfway house but you can still use the same methods. You just might not be able to wipe all of the paint away and grunge might not settle as much. So I tend to use gloss or matte and use satin as a final finish coat.
Great question! I have always done oil effects after washes. So, I would give the aircraft a panel wash and then seal that with a gloss varnish. Once that's dry then I'd start with oil weathering before the final matte varnish coat. Hope that helps!
Very well presented video but I can't help but think you could save yourself a lot of time by thinning the oils to make a wash and using capillary action to help you paint the panel lines. Clean up is probably a little easier too.
Thank you! This is after a panel wash. This is the step after that to help give some more tone variation to panels. Exaggerated here to demonstrate, but done subtly it can look great.
I appreciate the video. In the middle of weathering a revell Super Hornet build. I went with more of the oil wash approach and it's okay, but I like the look of your route here better. So thanks for that! Kit looks fantastic as well, so well done there. Question, do you find any noticeable difference in performance / pigment between the more expensive oils vs the 5 pound pack?
And I appreciate you taking time to watch my video, so thank you! I do love a Super Hornet. I think this method could also be used on modern jets but I've yet to build one! I would probably add a few more thinner washes to the underside to make it look greasy and grimey too. Out of the two I've tried, the cheap one's are drier from the tube so I can get away with not needing to let them soak up oil on some card mostly. The Abteilung oils are heavily oily and I really need to let them sit on some card for a good hour in some cases. For stains and washes though it does make them easier to use as the need to be mixed with thinners less than the cheap oils. The cheaper oils sometimes can be a little grainy if using them in washes or for streaking effects.
@@spruetherapy no problem thanks to TH-cam for popping it up lol. Yes the us Navy planes get real dirty lol. I am thinking I'll make the underside a bit dirtier with another round of thinner wash. I'll be giving this method a try in some spots as well. Im back into the hobby after about 12 or so years break (kids happened lol) and it's a whole new world now. So far only built modern jets (a10 as well) and a r2d2 kit. I do have some prop stuff in my future though.
@@carlossolares7821 Thank you! :) I don't see any issues using oils on top of your acrylics once you've varnished it. Just make sure it's properly dry first and you should be good to go.
Great video Just glad you don't work for the NHS or the pt would give up and go to hospital themselves lol Ps I DO work for the NHS.... The trick is lining up the thumb BTW Great work keep it up
G'day ST, you are, obviously, a highly skilled modeller. Now this is just a personal opinion but I'd like to point out that with his particular model you used in this video as an example of using oil paints, I think you went way over the top with the panel lines in general. I've flown on, worked on and been around military and commercial aircraft for many years. I've seen some hard worked and neglected military aircraft that never looked like your model. I know modelling is a subjective 'art form' but I find that a model that has hugely accentuated panel lines and general weathering, has only one effect, it looks more like a model. Personally, I go for accuracy, even in a 'battered' aircraft that has seen a lot of battle wear and tear or constant flying without a wash. Aircraft used in tropical climates fare the worst. Yet, as I said, I've never seen an aircraft look this 'bad'. It makes me think that the ground crew took a wheelbarrow of dirt and shovelled soil over the aircraft and then brushed the dirt into the panel lines. The shots of your other builds, like your Spitfire didn't look anything like the example aircraft. In reality, close up, 90 percent of aircraft have minute edges that are neatly flat riveted together over ribs or 'bulkhead' cross sections. Standing, say, 20 to 30 feet away from most aircraft, the panel lines can be difficult to see, depending on the sun or the artificial light in a hangar. You mentioned the decals of the roundels, if they were to be treated in the same way as your panel lines on this aircraft; the roundels should look like they are about to fall off or fade away to nothing. In museums, WW2 aircraft are, generally, highly cleaned and polished. Still, their panel lines are only a few hundredths of an inch wider than modern planes. Out of the factory, paint can almost make panel lines 'invisible' or hard to see. As the paint wears down, over time, the panel lines do become more obvious but not to this degree. It is not widely known but some WW2 aircraft were actually 'waxed', especially, carrier-based aircraft and maritime patrol planes, to protect their surfaces from the ravages of salt water. They can look, 'showroom' new yet still have flown constantly. This is a small point and i don't want to bang on too much more about this. I sincerely hope I have not offended you because you do excellent modelling work. I suggest you get along to airshows, museums and do some up-close plane spotting around a military base if you can. You may start to understand what I'm talking about. What do I do about panel lines? I generally use a simple 2H pencil with a sharp point to run down panel lines followed by a quick dry, stubby brush. Certain kit manufacturers make aircraft with 'canyon' like panel lines. I'll do those with just a tiny bit of wash and then brush much of that off 10 minutes after application. I guess I'll cop a lot of flak for this comment, so be it, but that was not my intention. I said all this because over the past 10 years or so, I've noticed that modellers have, generally, become obsessed with panel line delineation when it's not based in reality. Cheers and all the best. BH
Hi Bill, firstly thanks for taking the time to comment. I wouldn't say I'm highly skilled as I've only been modelling for around 8 months, I did do a couple of models 10 years ago but they were a real mess so gave up. I'm still trying to find my own style but I am not one to be overly worried about realism as to me, this hobby is about what makes the individual modeller happy. As I said in the video, this is definitely more of an artistic look but also, I did exaggerate it on this model so that viewers could see it better in the video. You have to go a bit overboard for video otherwise it's very hard to see. It's like make up in the film industry, in reality if people went out with the make up on as it's applied for film, they'd certainly stand out! :D I am lucky that I live 3 miles from Farnborough so I have been to lots of airshows. Although, until last year I never really had much interest in older aircraft. The thing I noticed about airshow warbirds is that they are generally in perfect condition and nothing like the reference pictures from years ago, which saw them covered in oil, mud and grime. You'll get no flak from me as it's all about personal opinion, yes I overdid this one but generally I tend to be a little more subtle on models but I still enjoy making some artisic looks. Cheers and happy modelling! Dan
@@spruetherapy G'day Dan, and thank you for getting what I was aiming at. Believe me, compared to some modellers on TH-cam; you are a skilled modeller. I once tried a 'fantasy take' on a crashed Spitfire being dragged out of the sky by some ugly sci-fi model that a friend gave me. It was strangely 'freeing' as I realised accuracy just didn't matter, in that case. I'm a military historian and an ex-RAAF member so I do like researching a WW2 pilot that had an 'interesting war' and then recreating his favourite aircraft. This year the RAAF turns 100 and I'm just finishing a multiple build, with a few mates to celebrate the significant aircraft we had over the years. For me the aircraft are a tribute to brave young men, many of whom didn't get to retire as old men. I'm going to branch out into a RAAF Rescue boat, my first ever boat. We also did a RAAF fire truck which was truly interesting. Then I thought I might do one of those Revell 'see-thru' T21 U-boats. I get what you meant about exaggerating panel lines and shading for your video. I should have thought of that. Cheers and all the best. I've subscribed to your channel and look forward to more models from you. Bill
@@BillHalliwell Hey Bill, all feedback is good and thanks for the kind words. With modelling I do find people just have their own way of doing things too. I will be building a Liberator Mk.V (BZ819) soon that my partners great uncle served on but sadly lost his life with 6 others in 1943. That's a build that will get almost no weathering, almost to preserve it as a memory to those that were lost. Cheers and good luck with the multiple build and 100 year celebration! Also thanks for subscribing, I appreciate it! Dan
Hello there. I read your comments with interest. I do find a lot of modellers overdo panel lines and you explained the theory very well. I have never tried using a pencil but I like that idea. I will give it a try many thanks for sharing.
Bill: That's very interesting. After you use the 2H pencil, what is the purpose of using the "quick dry, stubby brush"? Also, could you expand on your description of this use of the "quick dry, stubby brush"? Is it simply a way of getting rid of pencil "crumbs"? Would it be good to apply a coat of flat varnish to fix the pencil marks in place (i.e., to prevent smudging later on)? Also, for a 1/24 scale model, would you recommend a thicker pencil, or some other technique altogether?
Yes, I always preshade my models as part of the painting stage. The oil weathering is an addition that I like to add. I'll do a full painting walk through at some point.
I build plastic scale models for fun, relaxation, and enjoy doing creative stuff. I sometimes do "weatehring" to some models but your example is absurd. Not just yours but many on You Tube go WAY overboard with this type of "weathering". Yes, I understand it's your model and all but please, it doesn't even come close to realism. At the end of the day you will do it this way becasue you are having fun, but having "fun" with a pretentious attitude I see in the modelling world is sickening.
"i understand its your model and all". Apparently you dont. Because you completely contradict yourself with this statement. And then have the audacity to call him pretentious as well. Wich is ironically exactly what you are being. With regards to realism, im an aircraft mechanic. You seem to confuse realism with the norm. The fact that most aircraft are clean doesnt mean an aircraft cant be absolutely filthy (example, anything flying for the Greek air force atm). And another point, this is a video on how to apply techniques for oil weathering, wich implies showing how to do certain things, you dont go extremely subtle then, because its much easier to watch a video of someone doing extreme things and tone it down than someone being extremely subtle with everything and then amplifying it. You claim to make models for fun amd relaxation. Maybe you should do the same with watching videos. And maybe try to learn from how others do things but apply it to your own context. Instead of just yapping like this.
Personally I think that "enhancing" panel lines has become something of an obsession, seriously show me historic photos where a WW2 aircraft looks anything like that.
Not all modellers are aiming for verisimilitude. Some, like myself, tend to lean towards the artistic expression that modelling offers. I get to lay down layers and paint and express how I want things to look. This video is an expression of my ethos. As with anything, people are free to disagree. It matters not to me.
I've never had much luck with oils. I tried this method but I can never seem to replicate any tutorials like this. I don't know what I'm doing wrong.
Practice Practice Practice. I typically buy really cheap models, even the snap together kits. I don't assemble. Instead, I Practice painting or weathering.
This tutorial is so simple yet super helpful. Thank you so much!!
You are welcome, and thank you for watching!
I like the wet look you have at 6:14. I need that look for areas on my Mondoshawan 5Th Element figure. I don't want just a blackwash look.
great video - totally going to "borrow" some of these tips :P
also, are you on discord?
Thanks Matt, haha, that's what it's all about. You mean the tip about the glove right?! :D I am not on Discord......what is that?
@@spruetherapy its a platform which you can make a places where you can talk to your subscribers and friends or call them if you wanted
These are some really helpfull tips!
I'll try them out sometime!
Nice technique. I have a couple of models I will definitely try this on. Thank you..
Just beautiful !!!
Ahhhhh.....the fun you can have with a video camera and a vinyl glove!
Haha, oh yes! :D
@@spruetherapy Also, thanks for this video, I think being able to apply oils which I've only tinkered with so far is what makes models look great, and this video has helped me realise how easy it is to try.
@@arrrgee You're welcome. I'm no expert but I wanted to show people how easy it was to give it a go. Thanks for watching!
Fantastic. Thanks !
How do you like this Gauzy Agent compared to something like Testors Acryl or Future floor wax? Your gloss coat was very smooth.
I've not used Testors but I'd say the Gauzy is my favourite gloss coat at present. Dries so fast too.
@@spruetherapy I'll give it a try, thanks.
that is a totally awesome look to the plane , got to use that method , thanks so much
Cheers Stevie.
Thank you for this tutorial i find it the best for (me) and I have watched a lot, simple and informative.
You're very welcome!
High quality painting and weathering.
Wonderful aeroplane!
Thanks Mark, appreciate it.
I have an unbuilt Airfix BF 109e 1:72 scale in a cupboard and a bunch of oil and acrylic paint. Your vid inspires me!
Thank you very much for this tutorial. I have been searching for a way to do the "white" on a series of Coastal Command aircraft. Nothing seemed to hit the spot and this does it for me. I have been looking for something that will copy the box art on Airfix's Whitley. Never used oils before just washes, panel washes and some dry brushing for hilights. I have a Bristol so I'll copy your technique before I do the Wellington, Halifax, and Sunderland. While TH-cam is a wonderful tool you can easily get information overload. I much prefer to stick with someone's system and then develop it as my own. A Happy New Year 2024 to you.
What I would say, a few years on from making this video is that I was quite heavy handed in this video, but it helped show it. I would be a lot more subtle for a display model. Good luck with your Coastal Command aircraft!
Great video! I've recently returned to modelling after a 40+ yr break. subbed!
Would you be able to tell me where you got the rotary stand and size - amazing finished product by the way
Hey, I got it from amazon. I can't remember the size tbh.
Yeah, looking good.. Yet to try oil paints but bought some 2014... Oops.. But i WILL try it on my current build!
Awesome, hope it goes well! 👍
Very nice tutorial and a great looking model. Thank you.
Thank you for the comment and for watching!
Great video, thanks for taking the time to create
You are most welcome, thank you for taking the time to watch. It is much appreciated.
May be dilute the oil paint before applying them will create a thinner layer. But that’s just what I think. Haven’t try that yet
Thank you for this video. It finally "unlocked" the confusion in my head. Cheers!
Great build
Thanks! ☺️
I would like to ask some things about final coat. When should I use glossy, matt and semigloss as final coat? And what about planes with metallic colours
Hi Peter. The final coat is personal preference and more about how the real aircraft's finish looked. For WW2-era fighters, most seem to be matt or semi-matte. More modern aircraft might lean towards gloss. But the best bet would be to look at reference pictures to get a good idea of the finish of the aircraft you are building. For metallic, I generally use a gloss finish to keep the metallic sheen. I hope that helps!
@@spruetherapy thank you very much. Just 1 more question. I would like to change my enamel paints for acrylic ones because it is cheaper and i am gonna do metallic aircraft. What would you recommend me to buy for that? I mean like what primer, paint, varnishes. And maybe some tips you could give me. I hope I am not asking too much.
I have had a lot of luck with Vallejo acrylic paints. Although you do get a lot of tip drying when spraying through the airbrush.
Amazing work! I already follow you in Instagram and your work is awsome!!!
Thank you so much Marcos 😀
Thank you very much for a wonderful lesson. Tell me a couple of questions: 1) should oil paint be applied to varnish or can it be applied to acrylic paint? 2) is the brush for shading dry or dipped in white spirit?
You can do both, however I would recommend applying after you've sealed the underlying paint in with a varnish. In this video I used a gloss varnish as it's then easier to remove oils if they go wrong.
Very simple and easy on the ears commentary. An excellent vid!
Thank you kindly!
Very well done, inspirational, indeed ❤
Thank you!
Great content. Great production.
Thanks Andrew!
Very good video, and your model looks great. I'll be trying this technique on my upcoming Me262 build👍
Thanks Eric, hope it works well. I have a page on Facebook too if you fancy sharing pics of how you get on. @spruetherapy on FB.
This is a good video. I hope you continue to produce some content! I'd love to see some of your other weathering tricks!
I have a few ideas for new videos. Thank you! 😊
Great technique
Thank you!
Great video.
Thanks!
I appreciate the tutorial..
it was very nice.!
Thanks for watching!
Great result and a great video 👍
Cheers John!
Hi. Nice video. Really enjoyed the commentary.
Thanks Padraig, appreciate it.
When finishing up, why do you apply a final gloss coat before the matt coat? Thanks for the video!
I found that it helps seal everything in before the final matte coat. The matte coat I was using wasn't as tough as the gloss coat.
Impressive details, great job!
Thank you very much!
Very nice video, I love your sense of humor, thank you! 😉🖖
Thanks Roland, glad you enjoyed my humour 😁
Q: Which brand gloss top coat u used before applying the oils ?
I used Ak Gauzy Agent.
Amazing video! Really uselful tips, I definetily want to try these. Well filmed and recorded too! 👍👍👍
Thanks Roy, appreciate it.
Brilliant video
Thanks Harry, glad you liked it.
Nice work. Subscribed.
Thanks Rob, appreciate the sub.
What an absolutely enjoyable video ! I definitely will be trying your techniques out very soon !!
Thank you, glad you found it helpful!
Great tutorial. Thank you for sharing. Greetings , Aleš 🙂👍
Thank you very much! 😊
Nailing it my man! Great video!
Thanks Neil, appreciate the kind words.
You've used gloss varnish as a final sealing coat, I assume you can also use matt varnish?
Thanks for the video! great work
You are most welcome, thanks for watching!
Really good tip and well explained. Subscribed 👍
Thanks Kevin 👍
Great video, sir. Could it be the cardboard palette is also used to absorb the 'tonne' of oil in each oil paint.
Thank you! That's the idea yes. I must have cut the bit out where I explained that. Doh!
Really great stuff! Nice video and nice editing :)
Thank you :)
Nice job - really enjoyed it and well explained!
Que es lo que le pones para darle ese efecto se ve muy bien!!!!
This is a really well made video and your tips are really helpful. +1 sub! 👍
Thank you so much!
Really enjoyed this video, great tips. And easy to listen too. I hope to see more videos in the future for us to keep learning from 😊
Glad it was helpful!
I’ve been looking for a good video on this for a while great video you’ve gained a sub
Thanks, appreciate the sub!
Your Beaufighter already has black-ish panel lines from the very first time that it shows up in the video (at 0:34). Then in the video you proceed to add brownish panel lines. How did you get the initial (black-ish) panel lines?
The black was from the earlier panel line wash. I have a video about how to do that on my channel too. :)
@@spruetherapy Sorry that I am so late answering, but I did not notice your response until just now. That clarifies a lot for me! I had noticed your "Easy Panel Line Wash ..." video, but I had not put two and two together until now that this was also YOU. The voice sounded familiar, but ... 😀
When I first saw your "Easy Panel Line Wash ..." video, the method seemed crazy to me: What? You are going to start by smearing the entire model?? 🤯 But then I thought more about it, and in fact about a week ago I ordered the Flory Models Dark Dirt Weathering Wash. It's due to arrive the day after tomorrow. I can't wait to try it!
In regard to how marked panel lines should be, I decided that I won't be using the pencils. They may very well be more realistic in regard to their subtleness in comparison to what you get with the pinwash or the Flory methods, but I found that, after I made the pencil lines, they look like ... pencil lines! "Who has been scribbling on this airplane with a giant pencil??" So I am also changing my mind in regard to this. Paraphrasing the great Martin Kovac (a.k.a. "Nightshift"), "There are some unrealistic things that are done by modelists that make models look more real." (Sorry, but I can't replicate his accent and his inimitable style of saying it!) I had never thought of this before. To me, the perfect model used to be one that, in a photo, you would not be able to tell if it was a photo of a model or a photo of the real thing. But seeing things live is different from seeing them in a photo. There is a weird psychological factor that comes into play with scale models, something I never would have guessed until very recently. We can look, for example, to the issue of needing to lighten colors with decreasing scale of the model. I have seen someone explain this in terms of distance: Just like in a Renaissance painting the mountains in the background need to be painted lighter than they really are (due to the presence of dust in the air: more dust with greater distance), you can think of a small scale model as the real thing, but farther away from the viewer, and therefore its colors need to be lightened up. That would be a true physical reason for having to lighten up the colors of smaller scale models. But Manuel Conde (a modelist from Spain) thinks it has nothing to do with "distance". He told me that he used to sell furniture, and that his customers often complained that their furniture was lighter-colored than the small wood sample that they had been shown. But the furniture WAS the same color as the sample. The human mind perceives small things as darker than big things, even though their true colors may be identical. This second explanation does not show a physical reason, but a psychological reason. Who'da thunk that psychology had anything to do with modeling? In the same way, I am ready to accept that darker panel lines may be acceptable even though, strictly speaking, they are not realistic. Again, as Martin Kovac would say, ...
@@jesusdapena1296 Thanks for watching. That's some interesting theory there and something I've thought about before (being an art student years ago). I think Modelling is also a form of expression, just like painting on a canvas and you can choose to replicate real life or take a more expressionistic approach. The beauty of it is, you get to choose and no one can tell you that you are wrong. We all see things differently too, both with our eyes and psychologically. At least, that's what I think. I wish I sounded as cool as Uncle Night Shift instead of my dull South England accent! :D
@@spruetherapy I am not an artist by any stretch of the imagination. I mean, I can freehand-draw an elephant that won't make you think it's a hippo, but that is about my limit! (Thank you, trunk, tusks and toes!) In scale modeling, I am a stickler for realism, rather like Bill Halliwell, and I don't give myself much leeway. It's just that lately I am starting to re-think what realism actually is. 🤔
In the view from the USA, your south-England accent does not sound boring at all, although I do enjoy hearing the wide variety of British accents that one finds in TH-cam scale modeling. Lately, I am particularly getting a kick out of the ones that pronounce "blood" as rhyming with "mood", because it's so startling to an ear used to hear BBC News as the only British pronunciation!
@@jesusdapena1296 Haha, I am not much for sketching animals but I can do a passable honeybadger! :D I am definitely more of an artistic modeller but it was because I've spent years looking at other models instead of the real thing. I've tried to be more realistic on my latest build a few months back which was the Tamiya P47D. It certainly took a lot of willpower not to make super dark panel lines! Accents are funny things, and the English accent is so varied across the land but in most films we're either really posh (what-ho chaps) or cockney (allo guvner).
The final result in the Beaufighter looks nice to a certain extent, but you end up not only with darkened panel lines (which is good, of course!), but unfortunately also with a darkened panel area next to each panel line (which is not so good). The Wildcats show the same problem. The Spitfire is much better, with only a few darkened panels. And the 109 doesn't show the problem at all! Did you use a different technique for the 109, or did you clean up the darkened panels at the end?
As I said, with the oils I tend to exaggerate and I especially did in this video so that it shows up in the video a lot clearer. In the end, it's down to you how you want your models to look, I quite like the artsty look to my models. It's not all that realistic but it makes me happy. So do what makes you happy I say! :)
@@spruetherapy I understand the "do what makes you happy" philosophy. But what did you do differently for the Spitfire, and especially for the 109?
I don't think think I was using oils on the panels back then. Edit: Actually, I did use a lot of oils on the 109. I like them as they act as a filter too changing the overall colour.
@@spruetherapy Thanks for the info!
@@jesusdapena1296 I think on the 109 I was probably just using muted tones. So a brownish oil paint over the already brown surface colour and I didn't go too mad in the panel lines! I have a new build video coming soon, hope you like it!
Hi! Can you spray a clear matt final coat on oil?
Hi! Yes you can, I just find sometimes the oil doesn't seal well under matte varnish. BTW, I used to fly RC choppers! Trex 250 all the way upto 700. 😁
Hi great video, I am thinking of using oil paints on a large Millennium falcon model after base coat but I am interested to know can you paint acrylic over oil paint? For example if I wanted to do some chipping Thanks.
Hi, yes although I would let the oil paints dry completely and then put another coat of varnish of first. Might be okay without the varnish, provided you've left enough time for the oil paints to fully cure. Which can be weeks! Thanks!
Your tutorial was both informative and well presented. Tidy work! I have just started modelling with an airbrush and I'm still learning about weathering and using varnishes. I am now using the AK Gauzy Agent like you for gloss finishes (after almost 3 weeks I'm still waiting for my Vallejo rattle can varnish to cure!). I was wondering what matt varnish you use and how you apply it? I would appreciate your advice as I'm loathe to use a rattle can again. Cheers
Hi Ryan, glad you enjoyed my video and thanks for watching. For matte varnish I currently use Ammomig Lucky Matte varnish. It's not super flat but I really like the semi matte look that it gives and you don't need to thin it before spraying with the airbrush. I spray it over the model at about 18psi and usually I'll do a couple of coats in the same session. Ak Gauzy is excellent and I'm still using it as my main gloss coat too. Thank you for watching! Dan
@@spruetherapy thank you for the response, much appreciated! I will certainly check out that varnish. I look forward to viewing more of your content. Cheers, Ryan
Thanks for the video. I'm new to weathering and kind of confused. Many of the videos I've seen the oils are mixed with thinner and then applied? Is this just a different technique for doing the same thing?😊
Yeah basically. There's many ways to do the same thing. Thinning the oils is good for streaks and stains or panel washes.
Stupendo esemplare
How do you get the faded panel look? Do you go over the seams with an airbrush or what? I'm just trying to achieve the look before you started anything in this video before adding the stains. Thanks!
Hey Mike, yes that's pre and post shading with the airbrush. You can check out some of my techniques on the FW-190 build. Thanks!
@@spruetherapy Thanks! I'll check that out today. I want this B-52 to look the best I can do.
Brill, I thoroughly enjoyed it. Not been at bench for a while. Fantastic and your one very talented. Your oils I've always used Abteilung and Winsor and Newton. However, I've scaled cave back and want to try the Works Oils and or Home Bargains ones. Home Bargains are around £1.50. I gave tried them a bit bac, and to be honest, not much difference really. We all know that the Abteilung ones are leagues a head and that's my opinion, but we all have different opinions and thoughts. Opinions are like " Bottom Holes " ..... everybody has one !!! . Stay safe to family, and yourself. When I'm back in Cave and doing vids, I'll give you a few shout outs. Fantastic and your Talent needs to be spread ( hopefully not Carona ) for more people to see your work and enjoy. Regards, Steve
Hey Steve, thanks for the kind words. Oils definitely do vary from brand to brand but the cheap one's can work well too. I find some of the more expensive oils have a lot more actual oil in them so they take a lot longer to dry out. Yep, we all have our own way to do things and there's multiple ways to get the same result! It's about whatever works for you really! Stay safe nad hope you can get back to modelling soon! Dan
That was great! Thank you
Thanks Joe!
Where did you find the heat gun?
Cheapie from Amazon. It hasn't exploded yet..... 😂
@@spruetherapy :-D
I typically use acrylic paints. Do you believe using oils for panel lines and weathering would be ok?
Hey, I would probably still use a varnish over your paint layer first. Or at least test it on an old model. It should be okay though.
Would this still work applying onto a satin varnish?
Yeah I think it would be fine. In some spots my model was more satin than gloss.
Can i use satin vanish instead? Every Modeler talks only about gloss and matt
Generally gloss is good for this method as you can easily wipe it off. Matte varnish is good for grunge and stains as it settles into the tiny recesses of the matte finish. Satin is a halfway house but you can still use the same methods. You just might not be able to wipe all of the paint away and grunge might not settle as much. So I tend to use gloss or matte and use satin as a final finish coat.
Can you make some more videos like this?....i bet is so many noobs in this hobby, like me ,wiling to learn new things.
Thx!
@@gediz4916 Yes I have quite a few videos planned.
Great tutorial, thank you :)
Thanks Dean!
Q: Should you do a wash first before doing oils or vice versa ?
Great question! I have always done oil effects after washes. So, I would give the aircraft a panel wash and then seal that with a gloss varnish. Once that's dry then I'd start with oil weathering before the final matte varnish coat. Hope that helps!
Very well presented video but I can't help but think you could save yourself a lot of time by thinning the oils to make a wash and using capillary action to help you paint the panel lines. Clean up is probably a little easier too.
Thank you! This is after a panel wash. This is the step after that to help give some more tone variation to panels. Exaggerated here to demonstrate, but done subtly it can look great.
Great Video! Really useful tip on using oils. I am starting with oils and didn`t know how to use them. I will try this out +1 Sub
Hi Bernardo, I am really glad this may help with your modelling. Thanks for watching!
I appreciate the video. In the middle of weathering a revell Super Hornet build. I went with more of the oil wash approach and it's okay, but I like the look of your route here better. So thanks for that! Kit looks fantastic as well, so well done there.
Question, do you find any noticeable difference in performance / pigment between the more expensive oils vs the 5 pound pack?
And I appreciate you taking time to watch my video, so thank you! I do love a Super Hornet. I think this method could also be used on modern jets but I've yet to build one! I would probably add a few more thinner washes to the underside to make it look greasy and grimey too. Out of the two I've tried, the cheap one's are drier from the tube so I can get away with not needing to let them soak up oil on some card mostly. The Abteilung oils are heavily oily and I really need to let them sit on some card for a good hour in some cases. For stains and washes though it does make them easier to use as the need to be mixed with thinners less than the cheap oils. The cheaper oils sometimes can be a little grainy if using them in washes or for streaking effects.
@@spruetherapy no problem thanks to TH-cam for popping it up lol.
Yes the us Navy planes get real dirty lol. I am thinking I'll make the underside a bit dirtier with another round of thinner wash. I'll be giving this method a try in some spots as well.
Im back into the hobby after about 12 or so years break (kids happened lol) and it's a whole new world now. So far only built modern jets (a10 as well) and a r2d2 kit. I do have some prop stuff in my future though.
@@gamerleveldad1397 Awesome! Same here, got back into it last year after 10 years off. Good luck with the future builds! 👍
I think on my next kit I’m gonna just use oils a skip all that pre or post shading with airbrush.
What matte varnish did you use?
I use Ammo Mig Lucky Matte varnish.
Will these work on ACRYLICS???
Do you mean on acrylics base coat or by using acrylics to blend?
@@spruetherapy
Well, I use acrylics to paint and then a coat of clear floor wax.
BTW your modeling is awesome!!
@@carlossolares7821 Thank you! :) I don't see any issues using oils on top of your acrylics once you've varnished it. Just make sure it's properly dry first and you should be good to go.
Is Zippo oil ok as thinner?
I think so, but best to check an an old model first!
You use the oils over a gloss coat?
I sure do.
Very helpful, just the right length, good audio and very little pling plong music causing headaches :-)
Thanks!
Great video
Just glad you don't work for the NHS or the pt would give up and go to hospital themselves lol
Ps I DO work for the NHS.... The trick is lining up the thumb BTW
Great work keep it up
Very informative. Have a subscribe!
What thank you kindly!
Soon 1k subs aswell! 😃
Got there while I was sleeping too. Guess you guys want more vids :D
Thanks
You are welcome! Thank you!
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Really helpful! +1 sub
Thanks for the sub!
Cool
G'day ST, you are, obviously, a highly skilled modeller. Now this is just a personal opinion but I'd like to point out that with his particular model you used in this video as an example of using oil paints, I think you went way over the top with the panel lines in general. I've flown on, worked on and been around military and commercial aircraft for many years. I've seen some hard worked and neglected military aircraft that never looked like your model.
I know modelling is a subjective 'art form' but I find that a model that has hugely accentuated panel lines and general weathering, has only one effect, it looks more like a model.
Personally, I go for accuracy, even in a 'battered' aircraft that has seen a lot of battle wear and tear or constant flying without a wash. Aircraft used in tropical climates fare the worst. Yet, as I said, I've never seen an aircraft look this 'bad'. It makes me think that the ground crew took a wheelbarrow of dirt and shovelled soil over the aircraft and then brushed the dirt into the panel lines.
The shots of your other builds, like your Spitfire didn't look anything like the example aircraft.
In reality, close up, 90 percent of aircraft have minute edges that are neatly flat riveted together over ribs or 'bulkhead' cross sections. Standing, say, 20 to 30 feet away from most aircraft, the panel lines can be difficult to see, depending on the sun or the artificial light in a hangar.
You mentioned the decals of the roundels, if they were to be treated in the same way as your panel lines on this aircraft; the roundels should look like they are about to fall off or fade away to nothing.
In museums, WW2 aircraft are, generally, highly cleaned and polished. Still, their panel lines are only a few hundredths of an inch wider than modern planes. Out of the factory, paint can almost make panel lines 'invisible' or hard to see. As the paint wears down, over time, the panel lines do become more obvious but not to this degree.
It is not widely known but some WW2 aircraft were actually 'waxed', especially, carrier-based aircraft and maritime patrol planes, to protect their surfaces from the ravages of salt water. They can look, 'showroom' new yet still have flown constantly.
This is a small point and i don't want to bang on too much more about this. I sincerely hope I have not offended you because you do excellent modelling work.
I suggest you get along to airshows, museums and do some up-close plane spotting around a military base if you can. You may start to understand what I'm talking about.
What do I do about panel lines? I generally use a simple 2H pencil with a sharp point to run down panel lines followed by a quick dry, stubby brush.
Certain kit manufacturers make aircraft with 'canyon' like panel lines. I'll do those with just a tiny bit of wash and then brush much of that off 10 minutes after application. I guess I'll cop a lot of flak for this comment, so be it, but that was not my intention.
I said all this because over the past 10 years or so, I've noticed that modellers have, generally, become obsessed with panel line delineation when it's not based in reality. Cheers and all the best. BH
Hi Bill, firstly thanks for taking the time to comment. I wouldn't say I'm highly skilled as I've only been modelling for around 8 months, I did do a couple of models 10 years ago but they were a real mess so gave up. I'm still trying to find my own style but I am not one to be overly worried about realism as to me, this hobby is about what makes the individual modeller happy. As I said in the video, this is definitely more of an artistic look but also, I did exaggerate it on this model so that viewers could see it better in the video. You have to go a bit overboard for video otherwise it's very hard to see. It's like make up in the film industry, in reality if people went out with the make up on as it's applied for film, they'd certainly stand out! :D I am lucky that I live 3 miles from Farnborough so I have been to lots of airshows. Although, until last year I never really had much interest in older aircraft. The thing I noticed about airshow warbirds is that they are generally in perfect condition and nothing like the reference pictures from years ago, which saw them covered in oil, mud and grime. You'll get no flak from me as it's all about personal opinion, yes I overdid this one but generally I tend to be a little more subtle on models but I still enjoy making some artisic looks. Cheers and happy modelling! Dan
@@spruetherapy G'day Dan, and thank you for getting what I was aiming at. Believe me, compared to some modellers on TH-cam; you are a skilled modeller.
I once tried a 'fantasy take' on a crashed Spitfire being dragged out of the sky by some ugly sci-fi model that a friend gave me. It was strangely 'freeing' as I realised accuracy just didn't matter, in that case. I'm a military historian and an ex-RAAF member so I do like researching a WW2 pilot that had an 'interesting war' and then recreating his favourite aircraft.
This year the RAAF turns 100 and I'm just finishing a multiple build, with a few mates to celebrate the significant aircraft we had over the years. For me the aircraft are a tribute to brave young men, many of whom didn't get to retire as old men.
I'm going to branch out into a RAAF Rescue boat, my first ever boat. We also did a RAAF fire truck which was truly interesting. Then I thought I might do one of those Revell 'see-thru' T21 U-boats.
I get what you meant about exaggerating panel lines and shading for your video. I should have thought of that. Cheers and all the best. I've subscribed to your channel and look forward to more models from you. Bill
@@BillHalliwell Hey Bill, all feedback is good and thanks for the kind words. With modelling I do find people just have their own way of doing things too. I will be building a Liberator Mk.V (BZ819) soon that my partners great uncle served on but sadly lost his life with 6 others in 1943. That's a build that will get almost no weathering, almost to preserve it as a memory to those that were lost. Cheers and good luck with the multiple build and 100 year celebration! Also thanks for subscribing, I appreciate it! Dan
Hello there. I read your comments with interest. I do find a lot of modellers overdo panel lines and you explained the theory very well. I have never tried using a pencil but I like that idea. I will give it a try many thanks for sharing.
Bill: That's very interesting. After you use the 2H pencil, what is the purpose of using the "quick dry, stubby brush"? Also, could you expand on your description of this use of the "quick dry, stubby brush"? Is it simply a way of getting rid of pencil "crumbs"? Would it be good to apply a coat of flat varnish to fix the pencil marks in place (i.e., to prevent smudging later on)? Also, for a 1/24 scale model, would you recommend a thicker pencil, or some other technique altogether?
my varnish was not gloss ^^ and mean the panellin wash stucks on it like glue ^^
Yes it needs to be gloss!
Nice beaufigher
Thank you ☺️
2:04 ok 👌🏻😂
Nothing to see here.... 😂👀
The problem is that it looks like you have already preshaded the model with an airbrush..
Yes, I always preshade my models as part of the painting stage. The oil weathering is an addition that I like to add. I'll do a full painting walk through at some point.
Cancel my last
Yeah final matte coat to finish her off. :)
So many black lines, not even seen on the real Aircraft.
I like the effect. We're not all striving for super realism. The hobby is about expression after all.
I build plastic scale models for fun, relaxation, and enjoy doing creative stuff. I sometimes do "weatehring" to some models but your example is absurd. Not just yours but many on You Tube go WAY overboard with this type of "weathering". Yes, I understand it's your model and all but please, it doesn't even come close to realism. At the end of the day you will do it this way becasue you are having fun, but having "fun" with a pretentious attitude I see in the modelling world is sickening.
And you call me pretentious! 😂
"i understand its your model and all". Apparently you dont. Because you completely contradict yourself with this statement. And then have the audacity to call him pretentious as well. Wich is ironically exactly what you are being. With regards to realism, im an aircraft mechanic. You seem to confuse realism with the norm. The fact that most aircraft are clean doesnt mean an aircraft cant be absolutely filthy (example, anything flying for the Greek air force atm). And another point, this is a video on how to apply techniques for oil weathering, wich implies showing how to do certain things, you dont go extremely subtle then, because its much easier to watch a video of someone doing extreme things and tone it down than someone being extremely subtle with everything and then amplifying it. You claim to make models for fun amd relaxation. Maybe you should do the same with watching videos. And maybe try to learn from how others do things but apply it to your own context. Instead of just yapping like this.
Personally I think that "enhancing" panel lines has become something of an obsession, seriously show me historic photos where a WW2 aircraft looks anything like that.
Not all modellers are aiming for verisimilitude. Some, like myself, tend to lean towards the artistic expression that modelling offers. I get to lay down layers and paint and express how I want things to look. This video is an expression of my ethos. As with anything, people are free to disagree. It matters not to me.
@@spruetherapy Now that was clearly a pretentious answer to the guys comment.
I think you are projecting quite a bit here Paul. Happy modelling.
Масло наносят на матовый лак. А здесь глянец, блестит как у кота яйца.
It can be applied to any finish. Depending on on what look you are after.
Awful, are the Wildcats for a Warhammer game?
This isn't a Wildcat. Should have gone to Specsavers? :D
OMG, real planes don’t look like grids! This part of modelling have gone completely wrong.
It's an artistic endeavour, realism isn't always the goal. 😊