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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.ค. 2024
- In this video I show the process of a bike I recently converted from a 3x10 system to a 1x10 system. We used as many of the original bike components as possible and used basic inexpensive components to complete the conversion.
I've seen many hack 1x setups, but unless you're using some type of chain guide or some type of device to keep the chain from bouncing off over rough terrain, you'll want to use some type of derailleur with a chain stabilization device or clutch and a narrow/wide chainring.
We could have saved some $$ by going with a no name brand narrow wide chainring, but the customer really wanted a red Race Face chainring.
Link to Microshift rear derailleur: amzn.to/2HQdI6O
Link to Raceface 30t 104bcd narrow/wide chainring: amzn.to/2FDlwW3 - ภาพยนตร์และแอนิเมชัน
Another great video, Joey. Thank you.
You're welcome! Thanks! I appreciate your kind words!
Incredibly informative. Thank you!
Very welcome! Thanks for taking the time to leave feedback!
*This video was very helpful. Presentation was logical and easy to understand.*
Glad it was helpful!
This was great, thanks. I am currently in process of sidegrading :-) my old specialized rockhopper from 3x9 to 1x9.
Nice!
@@JoeyMesa aaaand donr :-) test drive will have wait until tomorrow as I am in a bit of hurry, so road bike will be in use today :-D
Innocentius Lacrim how was the ride on the 1x9? I have been thinking about that setup. I do a decent amount of climbs and lots of downhills
@@realrigbone3944 I kind of messed up putting the chain back and left a weak point there. I am going to replace it with a quick link when I get the time. Otherwise it was just fine. The jumps between gears are ok size and I do not really need 1x10, 11 or 12.
Innocentius Lacrim any hill climbs? How were those?
Perfectly as described!
It’s so convenient I love it
Great video, thanks!
Glad you liked it!
I have a 2013 Trek Marlin I want to try this on. Likely all similar components to start with. Thinking of trying everything except the final tune myself. Thanks for the video.
Yeah, it's a great upgrade and pretty easy to install. We've been doing a lot of Sram NX Eagle 1x12 kits on bikes similar to yours. It's pretty affordable as well. Thanks for your feedback!
I see this comment was a year ago. I have a 2013 wahoo. Did you do the upgrade? I’m thinking of doing the same.
@@capenelson1560 yeah it came out nice. Bought lightly used shifter, rear derailleur, cassette, and chain. New (but cheap) crank and BB. Taught myself along the way. Ran my own cables and set up the derailleur myself. Shifts like a dream now. I don’t feel the need to upgrade bikes anymore. Just watch a bunch of videos
@@mattkangas842 thanks! I Think the biggest thing for me is the dropper post. If I eliminate some cables via a 1x... seems like it would be much less cluttered. I have kicked around the upgrade idea vs a new bike. Happy riding!
I just ordered the parts to do this as well. but I'm not using a clutched RD, just a Deore M591 SGS.
I'm using a wide range cassette 11-42 with a hanger extension to make it work with a 34T at the front.
It's super cheap and I hope it'll work. 40$ for cassette, chainring, bolts and hanger extender.
Good luck!
Thanks for this video, it's the 4th or 5th that I am watching.. some from way more popular channels and this has been the most helpful. I have a mountainbike with XT but without a clutch. Should I use a plate in front, choose narrow wide front chainring or just buy a derailleur with clutch?
Some type of chain retention device would work to keep the chain on the chainring. You can even use your existing front derailleur by using the limit screws to lock it over the chainring. Those methods of a plate or chain retention device would be the least expensive route, and you wouldn't really need a narrow wide chainring either.
A narrow wide chainring and rear derailleur with some type of clutch would look the cleanest and keep that chain from smacking your frame as well.
Another option would be a Sram NX drivetrain group. We've been installing those a bunch on older triple and double 9 and 10 speed MTB 1x conversions. I'll make a video next time I do one, but it's a pretty inexpensive option as well.
I want to do a similar upgrade with a 28t front chainring (converting from a 24/32). 28t doesn't come in 104 BCD, only 64 BCD. Is there any issue with using the smaller 4-bolt spider (from original 24t gear) as opposed to the larger one when converting?
Nice video so How much bigger in tooth count did the new cassette you used compared to the stock one? Did you replace it with a new chain as well?
The rider wanted to keep his existing cassette (11-34). I showed the Sunrace 11-42 cassette an an example of what the Microshift rear derailleur could handle, and would recommend doing with a wider range cassette if you're looking to go 1X. I can't remember if we replaced the chain, but it's generally a good idea.
Thanks for the video, it was great! I'm hoping to try this upgrade with my 3x8 shimano alivio drivetrain. Hoping to just remove the 3 cogs from the crankset and then attach a new narrow-wide chainring to the original cranks. Any idea if I'm going to run into chainline problems? I'm planning to run a 12-gear Sunrace cassette at the rear with Shimano XT derailleur. Thanks!
You should be good chainlink wise. Most 1x chainrings will mount where the middle ring original went so that shouldn't be an issue. If you need to move the ring in or out to get the chain line adjusted, you can use small chain ring bolt spacers (not much thicker than a mm or so) to move the chaining towards the frame, or BB spacers between the drive side BB cup and the frame to move the chainring outwards. Most of the time if you're adding a 1x chainring to OEM parts, you don't have to do anything other than bolt it on.
Thanks for your question and feedback!
i guess Im randomly asking but does any of you know of a way to log back into an instagram account..?
I was stupid forgot the login password. I would appreciate any assistance you can give me!
@Micah Jameson Instablaster :)
@Krew Alberto Thanks for your reply. I found the site on google and Im trying it out now.
Seems to take quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Krew Alberto It did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. Im so happy!
Thanks so much you saved my account!
Does a 1x set up help or hinder climbing? I ride mostly pavement and some dirt/gravel rods. I was wondering if this is a mod that worth it? I love the idea of losing the detailer.
It can help climbing if you use the right cassette. In this particular video, had the customer chose to have a wider range cassette (42-46 tooth large cog for example), he would have ended up with a lower, low gear than what was originally on the bike.
hello joey. My cheapest conversion was the 3x10 to 1x10. It literally cost me 0 dollars. Just removed the top chainring/cog and the inner ring/cog, front deraileur and shifter . I am still using the factory middle ring/cog and until now i haven't dropped a chain. And i do jumps, not very high ones but jumps at the least. So , it makes me wonder , why some people spend money into this. Even if you are unsure about the chain , you can only get a narrow wide chainring , for about 25 dollars and be done with it.
I think the clutch derailleur is the most important piece honestly. It's one thing to jump something and another to keep pedaling over rough terrain. My first 1x setup on my home built bike was fairly inexpensive, and all the parts needed were worn out and needed to be replaced anyway, but long story short, I've got over 7000-8000 miles on the bike since the swap, over all kinds of terrain and haven't dropped the chain once. th-cam.com/video/xF-KaqMeEig/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for your feedback!
some cranksets are welded together so you have to buy a new crankset
@@Alex07985not modern Shimano/ sram sets. You use specific crank wheel bolts and a specialty wrench to remove them.
@@awesomenolan234 yed but budget ones are like how i said
Excellent video. I’m currently struggling with my trek ex fuel 8 2013 26er, I’m wanting to change to a single chainring up front but not sure what cassette/derailleur and how many teeth on the front chainring to give me a nice choice of gears. Please any help would be appreciated as I cannot find any info anywhere. Thanks
We do quite a few 1X conversions to older triple type mountain bikes at the shop. I made a video a while back of the process that may be helpful. You can basically retrofit a SRAM NX 12 speed Eagle kit directly to your bike using the existing wheels and crank, but with the option of switching the crank if a single chainring is difficult to find with your current crank that's on the bike. I have the group sets listed in the video description if you're interested in the prices of the components and what is included: th-cam.com/video/_wlmZnwuVpg/w-d-xo.html
@@JoeyMesa just seen your message now. Going to have a look at the links you sent and I’ll get back to you. Much appreciate the helpful reply.
Love your videos. Can I know the longevity of the new chainring? How much wear and tear is there after usage?
It really depends on the rider, rider weight and style, and overall mileage. This chainring is usually good from 1-2 seasons of heavy use to indefinitely under minimal use.
@@JoeyMesa thank your for your helpful videos. It means a lot for us..
Hi.i have a triple deor crankset and i want to convert to single and my cassette is now 9 speed and i plant to convert it to 12 speed.is it standard that i use the old crankset and convert it to single for that or i have to remove the whole crankset with new one? And what tooth for crankset fit with 12 speed? 30 or 32 or 34?
Awesome video!!! So currently i have a 2x9 but am planning on doing 1x11. What do you think i would need to do? new chain, shifter, hubs?
thanks in advance
New chain, shifter, and derailleur. If you use a cassette with a 34t or higher large cog, it will fit on your existing free hub. You can get a Sram Eagle 1 x 12 complete NX kit for sub $300. amzn.to/3jkvw8M
great info and tutorial, what size chain ring would I use for a 26" wheel set up please? on a Santa Cruz Heckler old school? thx Colorado
28t or 32t
That rear clutch is to reduce chain slap isn't it? I find chain slap deeply disconcerting. My bike has a bunch of it. My chain hasn't come off yet, but that's the result I expect when it happens. I think my rear derailleur predates the whole anti-slap clutch technology.
Yeah, the clutch keeps the chain from slapping, but more importantly, it keeps the chain from coming off the chainring.
Great channel. I want to change my 2019 Tallon 3 over to a 1x10. I’m on kinda of a budget also. What is the SLX crankset that is on this bike. I think you said in the video it was a 2x10 crank and a 1x10 cassette.I haven’t found I Shimano 1x10 crankset. I have found 1x11 and 2 x 11 but not a 1x10. I want to use the derailleur that you are using in this video. I’m going to use the Shimano Deore M6000 1x10 cassette but and stumped about what crankset to use, or if I can use this crankset you are using. Looking forward to hearing your opinion
Thank you so much
All you really need is a narrow wide chainring. There are plenty of choices that will fit on your existing crank if your chainrings are bolted on. If you wanted an SLX crank, I'm sure you could find one on Amazon or a good used one on eBay. Also most chainrings will work with 9,10, or 11 speed drivetrains, as the width of the teeth are all the same.
Giant Talon 3 has riveted chainrings and crank I believe. Will definitely need a new crank and chainring. I'm curious if you already did this, did you need a new hub as well for your cassette?
@@MadJDMTurboBoost you don’t know what you’re talking about
@@user-mq8xg5sp9c I have a Giant Talon 3...
You can fit 11-speed cassette into a 10-speed cassette freehub?
Most 11 speed cassettes that have a 34 tooth or larger big cog are the same width as a 10speed cassette. I've got some more info about free hub spacing on this video:
th-cam.com/video/xF-KaqMeEig/w-d-xo.html
The way the spokes angle inward as they go towards to rim allows for the large cog to be set inwards and run larger 11 speed cassettes on 8,9,10 speed spaced free hub bodies.
How much did it cost all together
I have a cannondale trail 8. it is currently a 3x7 but want to upgrade it. Will a 9 or ten speed cassette fit on the hub?
You probably have a freewheel since it's a 7 speed. If that's the case, you'll need a cassette type hub. A replacement wheel is probably the easiest route, but 8, 9, and 10 speed cassette type hubs are all the same spacing as far as the actual cassette width.
Great video!
How can I be sure that a larger cassette would fit? My son wants to convert his 2x8 Rockhopper to a 1x11/12.
Good question! 8,9, and 10 speed cassettes all use the same free hub body. Anything with a large cog bigger than a 34 tooth on an 11 speed cassette as well as 12 speed cassettes also fit the same free hub body (as long as it's not a 10 tooth first position cog). I did another video of a bike that went from a 3x9 to a 1x12 SRAM NX swap. It would be very similar to what you're looking at doing and might be helpful. th-cam.com/video/_wlmZnwuVpg/w-d-xo.html
i am an older guy, on paved hilly bike paths. should i switch to 1x7 or 1x10 for this type of riding?
It depends on what setup you have on the bike now and what you're willing to invest. Compared to the bike in this video, the only additional component would be a wider range cassette. Depending on what number of speeds you have on your current cassette (and you want to keep it that way), you may be limited on what's available parts wise.
The whole purpose of a 3x chain ring is to prevent cross chaining. You hear people say their bike has 27 gears, or 24 gears or whatever, which is wrong. A 3x8 chain ring/cassette is made specifically to prevent "hard shifts" and cross chaining and wearing out your chain ring and cassette prematurely (this will cause chain drops/breaks and damage to your drivetrain). Are these new "1x" systems made/engineered to keep the chain straight when the chain is in the outer most gears on the cassette?
Because you are not supposed to shift a bicycle like a manual transmission in a car.
On a 3x8 You are not supposed to go straight through the gears. This is improper. This will cause damage and premature wear on the chain rings up front, the Derailleur and the cassette in the back. This will break your chain, and cause really bad shifting.
You are supposed to shift a bicycle like you do a Manual transmission on a big rig semi (at least that is as closest analogy I can come up with in Bicycle shifting). The whole purpose of having 3 chain rings up front is to keep the bicycle chain as straight as possible inside the chain rings and the cassette so it isn't in angle tension. You should never be on the biggest chain ring on both the front and back and you should never be on the smallest chain ring on the front and back at the same time.
On a 3x8 system you should shift like this:
Front---Back
1--------- 1-5
2--------- 3-7
3----------4-8
This gives you 12 usable gears and prevents cross chaining and damage to your bikes components. If these new 1x systems are not engineered to prevent the chain from being in angle, then I would not recommend a 1x system to anyone.
Thanks a lot!
New to MTB and bikes with gears so I have a really dumb question. What if I just don’t shift up front?
I guess it would be a good way to test if your cassette range is adequate for the terrain you're riding, but ideally you'd want a wider range cassette to equal out your current multiple rings up front multiplied by your current cassette.
Joey Mesa That helped a lot, thank you!
Not shifting the front on a 3x or 2x increases wear on your drivetrain and is also less efficient when it comes to converting the energy from your pedals to the rear wheels.. Ideally you want to keep your chain as straight as possible while remaining in the proper gear for the terrain your riding.
One reason I started reducing the gears on my bike was I realized I never used the big ring in my rides. So I originally went to 2x9... Then when my legs got stronger, I noticed I wasn't shifting into the smallest front ring on climbs. So I took that off. Uses a chain guide and bash guard and never dropped a chain. Been riding 1x9 since. This was when 1x10 was just becoming a thing.
Now I rebuilding my drivetrain and using a 9 speed Sunrace 11+42 cassette and either a 38 or 40 tooth front ring.
My goal is to keep my smallest ratio the same for climbs, b it open up the big ring to get a little more speed on longer straighter trails. There are a couples sections of my usual trails I kind of pedal out with my old setup.
Keeping my Sram X9 shifter and derrailleur because nothing was in stock anywhere.
Will eventually get a clutch derrailleur, but this will do for now to get my bike back on the trail.
Anyone know what crank he had
Can I ask? How many teeth is the largest cog?
On this particular bike, I think it was a 34. Ideally, I'd prefer something more like a 46 to a 50 though.
How thick are the wheels?
Reeeeeaaaaaallllll thick!!!!!
this one anthem 29er?
Maybe, it's been a while since I worked on this bike.
The whole purpose of a 3x chain ring is to prevent cross chaining. You hear people say their bike has 27 gears, or 24 gears or whatever, which is wrong. A 3x8 chain ring/cassette is made specifically to prevent "hard shifts" and cross chaining and wearing out your chain ring and cassette prematurely (this will cause chain drops/breaks and damage to your drivetrain). Are these new "1x" systems made/engineered to keep the chain straight when the chain is in the outer most gears on the cassette?
Because you are not supposed to shift a bicycle like a manual transmission in a car.
On a 3x8 You are not supposed to go straight through the gears. This is improper. This will cause damage and premature wear on the chain rings up front, the Derailleur and the cassette in the back. This will break your chain, and cause really bad shifting.
You are supposed to shift a bicycle like you do a Manual transmission on a big rig semi (at least that is as closest analogy I can come up with in Bicycle shifting). The whole purpose of having 3 chain rings up front is to keep the bicycle chain as straight as possible inside the chain rings and the cassette so it isn't in angle tension. You should never be on the biggest chain ring on both the front and back and you should never be on the smallest chain ring on the front and back at the same time.
On a 3x8 system you should shift like this:
Front---Back
1--------- 1-5
2--------- 3-7
3----------4-8
This gives you 12 usable gears and prevents cross chaining and damage to your bikes components. If these new 1x systems are not engineered to prevent the chain from being in angle, then I would not recommend a 1x system to anyone.
In theory, I understand and agree with your concept. The problem is 90% of bikes with a triple are not going to be ridden and shifted in that manner. Same with 2x systems.
The original purpose of 3x setups is wide gear range. Unless there is some kind of lockout of certain cross chained gears (like Di2), there's nothing other than knowledge and discipline that will prevent gear overlap and extreme cross chaining.
There are many benefits to modern 1x systems that unless you've spent some time riding, you're possibly unaware of. 3x systems are notorious for dropping chains, chain suck (getting the chain stuck between the chain stay and the chainrings) and slapping the chain stay.
Also, under load, a front derailleur of any type can never have the same shift quality as a rear derailleur.
With the wide ranges available with cassettes these days, you're not really giving up much with the overall range, but getting much better shift quality.
I was skeptical myself up until around a year and a half ago when I converted my commuter bike to a 1x set up. I don't feel like it's worn components any faster than the 2x set up I had previously, so durability wise, I'm getting the same mileage in drivetrain components, but the benefit of not having the chain smacking against the frame over bumpy conditions, nor any dropped chains made me a believer!
Anyway, I thank you and appreciate you taking the time to leave feedback!