Just an outstanding video! Took my iPad out to the garage with me and went from the stock 3x to Race Face Narrow Wide 1X without breaking a sweat. Rides like a dream. May go with one of the new 11-40T wide range 10spd cassettes to top it off. Thanks!
its like using the middle ring the whole time you dont get any kinda alignment issues. btw if you do this make sure you get a crankset that allows you to remove the entire chainring spider looks 1000x cleaner.
This mod is great for those who don't use all the gearing in their trail bikes. I seldom do. Also great for dropping the FD, cables and shifter. Frees up your internal routing for a dropper post, and keeps things nice and tidy. Thanks great vid as always.
exactly , i live in an urban area . i bought a merida mtb second hand which was dirt cheap and already has a faulty front derraillieur. i mainly use the middle blade up front and 10 gears are plenty for what im using the bike for . easy commutes to work and around town. l live in the netherlands , i tried a dutch bike ( almost everyone around here rides these) , but its not for me . maybe its just my ADHD :). The bike has schwalbe marathon tires on it ( i bought it with these equipped ) , but im putting slicks on it for the summer, and save the current tires for the colder seasons.
@@vanimaladventures Only issue here is the middle chainring is designed to shift between the other two. You need to replace it with a narrow wide tooth chainring to stop the chain jumping off the bike.
I have a 2020 hopper expert 1x & i have ordered a 11-36t sram cassette like you have in this video. Only difference is i have a 30t chain ring. So excited to see how it feels.
Got a triple chainset on my All-Mountain bike. It makes a lot of chain chatter on the really rough stuff, and I can't add a chain tensioner due to the three rings! But I love it nonetheless as it gives me 30 potential gears allowing top speeds of ~40mph, incredibly steep hill climbing and everything in between!
@@DAGZTERGAMING hope im not too late, you can get a great narrowwide chain ring for 40-60 bucks and then dont use a chain retention device at all. I dont use one even at a downhill park with my 1x11. Raceface is a great quality budget friendly option, wolftooth is worth the extra money if you can afford it.
Last week, my front derailleur was a bit clogged up from an earlier ride through rather muddy conditions. As a result, shifting to the smallest chainring was impossible - the shifter would get stuck against the mud. Of course I noticed only on the way home when there is this really steep hill (14%....for me that's about the steepest I can go without pushing). Normally I'd do that hill in 1-1 or 1-2. But since I had to stay in the middle chainring, I got up in 2-1 and it worked just fine, even with the chain rattling against the derailleur cage. I rarely use the large chainring either... With a ten-speed cassette, and doing only non-technical riding, a single chain ring in the front should suffice. Maybe I'll try and convert a bit later :)
Your videos are great, thanks. I am converting my 29er to a 27.5 plus and hope you can give me advice on taking it down from a triple to a single 10. It's an older Specialized Rockhopper Comp 29er. I have Shimano FC-M36108 crankset with 22/32/42 chainrings. Rear cassette is an 8spd 11-32. I'm not a hardcore rider, just have fun on the bike. Can you suggest what size/part nbr chain ring up front and what cassette/part nbr at the back? Do I really require a chain keeper device? Cheers!
I've thought about it on my CC but I like my granny gear for those technical slow climbs when my legs are toast and I like my big ring for cranking out on a gravel/two track - I do have a double on my trail bike but same there - nice to have options.
you can get standard 4 bolt chainrings that do the same as XX1 from a few brands now like race face narrow-wide for example. combined with a clutch rear mech upgrade you need no chain guide.
Yeah they are nice and trick looking. Taller teeth than raceface and squarer at tip. I have a 36t chainring paired with a rohloff, so not really needed
@@WhatsMyNameAgain93 it depends on wether or not you want to shift all the time, i prefer 1x11 since i am very bad at cahnging gears upfront so i don't get the advantage from it. I am a bit of a newbie, so tak this with a grain of salt.
Depends on your riding. This set up suits me, I take the climbs steady, hammer the downhills and hit as many jumps and tech sections as I can. If It's just a bit of added confidence not having to worry about losing the chain. Sure it wears the chain a bit quicker but chains are cheap and I have all the gear range I need for mountainbiking. YMMV.
I still have a 3x10 with a 26' tyre on my carbon 9.8... 98 model and l love it! And you know why...part replacement are dirt cheap. Keep your centre of gravity as close to the middle as possible...huge cog and dropper seat could offset it and, once in the air remember what pilot say ''the landing is the trickiest par''! Happy ride!
Blackspire Monoveloce and Wolftooth I think stand above the rest, but with, Sram, Race Face, Absolute Black, Revolution Components, Northshorebillet in, there is no excuse for not going 1x in the front! And just get a 40t sprocket also and pedal all day long. Awesome bikes the Cannondale Prophets by the way.
Nice vid. I've just gone from 2 x 10 to 1 x10 with a shimano zee crankset and a sunline chain guide. Just need to figure out how many links to remove from the chain now ;-)
Super detailed and informative. Thanks! I am planning on going from my 2x10 slx set up to a 1x10 using a Renthal 1XR 32T chainring, and my existing crank arms( does that sound like a good set up?). when setting it up on a hardtail, how will I know how many chain links to remove, or should I leave that part to the local shop?
+Jon Hogg That sounds fine. General chain length protocol for 1x setups is front ring/big rear cog + 4 links. If you drop the chain at all after setup then remove 1 link but otherwise leave it as it is.
Great vid. I run a 1x11 but want to convert my sons 24" 3x7 to a 1x 10. Only trouble is it looks like I need to spend the same amount on tools as components 😦
Hello, and please excuse my ignorance, I'm new to mountain biking... just betting my first mountain bike last week. Growing up I alway had 10-speed "English Racer" style bikes. I had a 1971 Schwann Continental, a 1972 Raleigh and a 1972 or 73 Sears Free Spirit 10-speed (manufactured by Raleigh that year). All were excellent bikes that that I road for many years and put 10's of thousands of miles on. And all are sill riding today... now own by my mom, brother and my sister. After many years (26) I've decided to get back into biking to get back into shape, and to stay in shape. Rather then getting another 10-speed bike like my pasted bikes, I wanted a mountain bike being that I'm 6'5" and 285 lbs. I bought a Raleigh Tokul 2, which only has one gear ring in the front, compared to the 2 rings I'm used to. At first I was worried that I bought a model that was less capable, noticing that the Raleigh Tokul 1 has the two gear rings in the front with the de-railer. And I was confused over that because the even though the Raleigh Tokul 2 only has the one ring, it's a higher end more expensive bike then the Tokul 1. While out riding, a guy with a Fuji Mountain bike stopped to look at mine and said he was going to convert his bike to just one gear ring. My questions, why would someone only want just one front gear ring... is it for reliability reasons... and also, do you lose speed and/or performance in any way? The guy at the park told me, "you just lose gears you never use anyway" ... but I simple don't know enough about mountain bike at this point to form my own opinion and to know whether or not he was right. I would appreciate you help on this matter, or from anyone else that could answer my question and helping me to understand. Best wishes...
Thank you sir, your reply and help is greatly appreciated. I will take your advice and get to know my bike well before thinking about any changes. Have no need for flat-out speed... just want a pleasurable ride and the gears needed for hills and inclines. Best wishes...
I had 3 ring setup for about 3 years and only once shifted out of the middle ring into the 3rd never the first it saves weight it's easier more reliable less maintenance more room on bars for stuff like dropper posts etc
green apple thank you for your reply. I'm going to ride as is for now, and decide in the Spring if I want to make any charges. My only concern at this point is the slow speed on straight flat riding on paved surfaces (roads & paved bike paths), and on the down hills, I spinning out my petals (?) while at only about 16 MPH. On flat roads, I'm only able to cruise at 12 to 14 MPH. With my old Schinn Continental 10 speed, I was able to cruise at 16 or 18 MPH with minimal effort. Is this a normal for mountain bikes? As for the lack of speed, I'm thinking more of a road/light trail tire? The knobby tires really seem to slow my bike down and give me very little coasting on level ground. Thank you again and I greatly appreciate any help you guys can give me.
There's the magic of the middle ring. The one on which the chain can shift across the entire cassette without any serious problems. Lot of people, me included, use almost exclusively the middle one. I'd really like a 2x10 (30-22 rings) . Don't tell on me, as I've been and kinda still am opposed to 1x, but I might actually convert to 1x sooner or later ;) The conversion to 2x is a bit more complex than I'd like. It either requires some modifications which I'm not perfectly OK with, or new gear that could be more expensive than I'm willing to spend for such an upgrade. An upgrade to 1X is still a bit of a premium, but a conversion is quite simple and not too pricey. Now instead of all the subjective crap you usually get from other users and marketing BS from the brands, here's the reality: It's not about the combinations, it's about the ratios. I have a 29er with 10 speed 11-36T cassete and the chain rings are 40-30-22T. This gives me 30 different combinations. The thing is, it doesn't necessarily give me 30 different ratios. So here's the kicker: there's only 5 ratios which are out of the reach of the 30T ring. In other words, by removing the other two rings, I would only lose 2 of the highest gears and three of the lowest gears. I can do without the high gears, but the lowest ones - well I've gotten into climbs where I used them. I'm going to decide next year what to do. Currently, I'm changing my riding style and habits, so I'll need some more field testing. Try riding just on your middle ring. See if it's too large or too small. Use bike gears calculator for comparisons. Choosing the right ring size is absolutely essential to get a functional 1x. Also, there's a few thing to bare in mind. For instance, on a 3x setup, the middle ring isn't perfectly centred. So if you want to convert to 1x, you need to offset the ring by a few mm towards the low rear gears (the larger ones). Some of the aftermarket rings intended for conversion are offset on their own. Branded stuff usually requires you to use spacers.
In low gears my chain slips down when I peddle backwards half a stroke (ratcheting around big rocks to avoid peddle bashing) my chainring is as close to the BB as I can get it. Is there anything I can do to help align the front chainring closer to the frame and more in the middle of the cassette at the rear?
well ive read some comments and looked around but im just gonna come out and ask some questions..#1 Do they make this ring in a 22 to 25 teeth? #2 I have a 2017 GT Pantera Comp its a 2x9..Would I need anything to do this conversion with? I have been told by the bike shop that I need to use both rings up front to keep from wearing out the chain,rings,cassette,etc,..SO how can I use ONE ring and not cause any damage? #3 would i need shorter ring screws since going to a 1x over my 2x? Thanks for any clear answers..
What is the Pros of converting 3 Chain ring to single chain ring?Other than weight what change does it do on the brighter side.Im seeing some XC converting too. So would a Single Chain ring have better pedaling efficiency at going uphill than a 3 chain ring set?Cuz i would like to modify my DH(Single) to triple chain ring so it could travel Uphill too.Would this be a mess up?
If you wanna go single in front you could use a bmx crank with a narrow racing chainring, i ride a KHE Erlkönig crank with titanium axle on my fully. These are easier to install (no clamping bolts) and are nearly indestructable..
is a 1 by 10 better and if so how is it better. plus by having the chain stay in one place at the front and move so much at the back wont that put strain on the chain?
hi, dumb question - if i change for single front, do i need to change the rear trans. for XX1 or so ? - or i can still use the old one that come with my bike is a Deore Trans. 10 speed ?
I recently bought a hope narrow wide 34t to convert 3x9 to 1x9...question how many spacers do i need on the drive side?.at the moment there's 2 on the drive side & one on the other side.The issue i have is the chain line is not correct & it's tempting to take out one spacer on the drive side to put it right.please advise Al,would be appreciated cheers
a single chainring makes sense as long as your a strong cyclist (and you will be soon enough without granny gears lol). no need for front mech complexity and another mud trap. i fitted a cheapy 44 tooth mighty crankset on my old marin. bikes now simpler, a bit lighter and much easier to clean.
+Dan Henderson I agree I use a 30 tooth chain ring with a 36/11 cassette and this does for most long hard climbs. and plenty of speed on the downhill parts as momentum and gravity does most of the work for you.
hi there I'm doing a 1x11 convert on my cube mtb I've got a black spire chain guard with chain roller but when fitting the crank set back on if I push it on fully it will hit the frame of my bike wot would the spacers I need to bring chain ring out to miss my frame be called .or could I get a new bb where it will also do wot I need thank you. mark
I have put an 11 speed cassette on my new rear wheel, which has a sram xd driver. The shops are telling me I need to change the original derailier and change to a single chain ring up front. Could I not just change the rear derailier to an 11 speed one ? . Although my original will change to every gear except the 11 cog.
Hi, I am planning to build a 29er 27+ compatible bike from parts, in the meantime, I am looking into upgrading my current XC 26 bike, an old Gary Fisher 2005 Tassajara, converting it to a 1x10 or 1x11 setup, this way I can move those parts on the new bike.. Can I convert my Tassajara to this setup? What would I need to change?
just fitted a truvativ holtzfeller crank onto a howitzer bb, i have around 1-2mm of lateral travel thru the crank. is this normal? never fitted one before. or would i need an extra spacer or chain guide to take up slack?
I'm new to MTB and their many parts, but I'm a bit confused. I've watched a few videos now of how to remove a crankset and most of them use tools like the crank puller.... I didn't see that here, is that because of the style of crankset by any chance?
Thank you for sharing your experience with public. It has been very helpful. I have a question to ask outside this video, if you do not mind. The gear of my bicycle, Giant brand, slips whenever I want to accelerate or go up a hill. What can be the cause? Thank you
It may be that your chain rings are worn, your chain itself is worn, or the derralieur/s may need adjustment. If your bike is a full suspension, you may have 'Chain Stretch' so replacing the chain may give you the best chances.
The rear or the front? If it happens whenever you start pedaling hard, it's either a worn chain, cassette, or both. If you have a new chain on a broken-in (as in not worn out yet but definitely used) cassette, it's normal for the chain to slip occasionally for about 100km before it stretches a bit. Best to bring the bike into a shop. They'll change the chain a determine whether new cassette is necessary. Also ask them about a chain stretch measuring tool. The basic ones are really cheap, six bucks or less. It'll let you know when it's time to replace your chain before you start damaging the rear cassette.
Use a narrow wide chainring and no chain guide required even if you are not using a clutch rear mech as I'm running just now and hardly ever drop a chain.
Luke Kelly Using a molybdenum disulphide grease or any lithium soap based grease (the green stuff for example that comes with shimano parts) would be my recommendation. Have a great day :)
IF I were to convert a 29er being used for commuting, would this setup be advantageous. I ride on rail trails that get muddy in the spring, and through the winter with snow, ice, salt, sand, crap, etc. My current bike is a hybrid, and when I get a bit of mud in the gears/cables it doesn't shift as nice until I give it a bath/brushing out debris. How is the top end speed on flat straits with this setup?
+StormLaker1975 Its still got all the potential to go very fast, but its a matter if you're able to handle it. If you find it too easy you could always use a bigger teethed gear.
36 as the low gear cassette in the back? And still get up the hills OK? Sorry, not here in the Pacific NW. I need at least a 42. That means that XT derailleur needs an extender link or the bike needs a new/different derailleur that can accommodate the wider range cassette (with shifters to match).
I've converted 3x9 to 1x9, just changed front chainring and cassette and installed chainguide, it somehow doesnt work, the derrailer is colliding with the cassette, just waiting for wolftooth link, so Ill see if it's gonna work then
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I see that your workshop is in the matrix.
"We need bikes... Lots of bikes."
Haha so good
@@Jamarkus_Delvonte 8 هذا
This is where neo shows him the bike mechanic skills
Lol
did you flim this video in heaven?
+arsenalbloke
With the uggliest bike ever.
But a good manual!
Heaven looks quite shitty
+Pepe where's the mtb trails
arsenalbloke 😀😀😀😀😀
arsenalbloke lol, sounds like the old mythological movies when the gods were talking lol
This guy is so positive I love it 😂
This dude seems super thrilled to be making this video.
"you need only basic tools" and then he uses something like this(1:05)
Sebi _ Palgino basic bb tool, I’ve got one!
Well no fuck he needed to remove that so...
That's a basic bike tool.
Expand a needle nose plier in the grove and turn. Will do the same exact thing without special tool
This the guide I've been looking for. Thank goodness!
It's not just to save weight. It clears up space on the bars, allows you to get a proper chain guide on and there's just less to go wrong.
Just an outstanding video! Took my iPad out to the garage with me and went from the stock 3x to Race Face Narrow Wide 1X without breaking a sweat. Rides like a dream. May go with one of the new 11-40T wide range 10spd cassettes to top it off. Thanks!
Again great way to show how things are properly and well done! Excellent and very good advice given! Big THANK to you Al! Great job!
you wouldn't need that chain guide if you used a narrow wide chain ring
Absolutely awesome tutorial!
I do this to all my bikes. simplifys things.
its like using the middle ring the whole time you dont get any kinda alignment issues. btw if you do this make sure you get a crankset that allows you to remove the entire chainring spider looks 1000x cleaner.
This mod is great for those who don't use all the gearing in their trail bikes. I seldom do. Also great for dropping the FD, cables and shifter. Frees up your internal routing for a dropper post, and keeps things nice and tidy. Thanks great vid as always.
Seem like the terrain a person would be riding that would fit the 80mm Headshok travel, a dropper post wouldn't really be needed.
exactly , i live in an urban area . i bought a merida mtb second hand which was dirt cheap and already has a faulty front derraillieur. i mainly use the middle blade up front and 10 gears are plenty for what im using the bike for . easy commutes to work and around town.
l live in the netherlands , i tried a dutch bike ( almost everyone around here rides these) , but its not for me . maybe its just my ADHD :).
The bike has schwalbe marathon tires on it ( i bought it with these equipped ) , but im putting slicks on it for the summer, and save the current tires for the colder seasons.
i used to work at a bike shop for yrs, its a good way to learn yourself, the hardest thing is lacing a wheel, or taking a road shifter apart.
i just took my pedals off, took the big and small ring off and put it back together with the middle cog left on and thats it lol didnt cost me a penny
if youre serious id love to know what frame or bike bc i might just do this on my immaculate trek single track
@@vanimaladventures Only issue here is the middle chainring is designed to shift between the other two. You need to replace it with a narrow wide tooth chainring to stop the chain jumping off the bike.
I have a 2020 hopper expert 1x & i have ordered a 11-36t sram cassette like you have in this video. Only difference is i have a 30t chain ring. So excited to see how it feels.
Thank you for another awesome how-to video!
Brilliant tuition as ever, thanks for your videos 👍
Excellent video. Well demonstrated.
Got a triple chainset on my All-Mountain bike. It makes a lot of chain chatter on the really rough stuff, and I can't add a chain tensioner due to the three rings! But I love it nonetheless as it gives me 30 potential gears allowing top speeds of ~40mph, incredibly steep hill climbing and everything in between!
Very clear concise Great stuff
Great vid. Followed it and I'm now 1x10. Thanks!!
M Nicholas Glassett how much was your chainring
@@DAGZTERGAMING hope im not too late, you can get a great narrowwide chain ring for 40-60 bucks and then dont use a chain retention device at all. I dont use one even at a downhill park with my 1x11. Raceface is a great quality budget friendly option, wolftooth is worth the extra money if you can afford it.
Jacob Fromerth I ended up buying one for £12 and it’s perfect
@@DAGZTERGAMING sweet! What kind did you get and what kind of riding do you use it for?
Jacob Fromerth I ride trails and dirt jumps
Last week, my front derailleur was a bit clogged up from an earlier ride through rather muddy conditions. As a result, shifting to the smallest chainring was impossible - the shifter would get stuck against the mud. Of course I noticed only on the way home when there is this really steep hill (14%....for me that's about the steepest I can go without pushing). Normally I'd do that hill in 1-1 or 1-2. But since I had to stay in the middle chainring, I got up in 2-1 and it worked just fine, even with the chain rattling against the derailleur cage. I rarely use the large chainring either...
With a ten-speed cassette, and doing only non-technical riding, a single chain ring in the front should suffice. Maybe I'll try and convert a bit later :)
Maybie if you cleaned out some of the mud then it would shift to the lowest ring.
Your videos are great, thanks.
I am converting my 29er to a 27.5 plus and hope you can give me advice on taking it down from a triple to a single 10.
It's an older Specialized Rockhopper Comp 29er.
I have Shimano FC-M36108 crankset with 22/32/42 chainrings.
Rear cassette is an 8spd 11-32.
I'm not a hardcore rider, just have fun on the bike. Can you suggest what size/part nbr chain ring up front and what cassette/part nbr at the back?
Do I really require a chain keeper device?
Cheers!
I've thought about it on my CC but I like my granny gear for those technical slow climbs when my legs are toast and I like my big ring for cranking out on a gravel/two track - I do have a double on my trail bike but same there - nice to have options.
Very informative! Thank you!
you can get standard 4 bolt chainrings that do the same as XX1 from a few brands now like race face narrow-wide for example. combined with a clutch rear mech upgrade you need no chain guide.
Yeah they are nice and trick looking. Taller teeth than raceface and squarer at tip. I have a 36t chainring paired with a rohloff, so not really needed
Thanks very much for posting this.
2X10 works SO good. Got really low gears,and high gears,with out needing a 11X50 cassette to try to make shift.
I'm looking to change from the 3x8 that came with my bike, would you say 2x10 is better than a 1x? Also what did you need to buy and replace 😁🤙
@@WhatsMyNameAgain93 it depends on wether or not you want to shift all the time, i prefer 1x11 since i am very bad at cahnging gears upfront so i don't get the advantage from it. I am a bit of a newbie, so tak this with a grain of salt.
I need to do this with my 2013 Kona Blast, my backup winter bike.
Depends on your riding. This set up suits me, I take the climbs steady, hammer the downhills and hit as many jumps and tech sections as I can. If It's just a bit of added confidence not having to worry about losing the chain. Sure it wears the chain a bit quicker but chains are cheap and I have all the gear range I need for mountainbiking. YMMV.
I still have a 3x10 with a 26' tyre on my carbon 9.8... 98 model and l love it! And you know why...part replacement are dirt cheap. Keep your centre of gravity as close to the middle as possible...huge cog and dropper seat could offset it and, once in the air remember what pilot say ''the landing is the trickiest par''! Happy ride!
What’s the cost of this at a bike shop❓
$100 min. It takes a shop 1-2 hrs
Blackspire Monoveloce and Wolftooth I think stand above the rest, but with, Sram, Race Face, Absolute Black, Revolution Components, Northshorebillet in, there is no excuse for not going 1x in the front!
And just get a 40t sprocket also and pedal all day long.
Awesome bikes the Cannondale Prophets by the way.
Well explained and demonstrated.
At 11:50 the subtitles translate what ever you said to, "China phone call." lol.
Would be good to see you go over chainline in this video, can you share any advice on how to set up a good chainline?
wow! what a great instructional video! thank you very much! :-)
Fantastic video thanks for sharing
“You don’t need any special tools.
Step two, use this special tool.”
Nice vid. I've just gone from 2 x 10 to 1 x10 with a shimano zee crankset and a sunline chain guide. Just need to figure out how many links to remove from the chain now ;-)
excellent video but questions regarding the chain does not suffer more wear and torsion to make working much more than a three-course or two dishes?
Can you tell me which replacement parts you use ?? Interesting video !
Awesome video, super informative! But more importantly, where can I get my hands on that kickass shirt?
Super detailed and informative. Thanks! I am planning on going from my 2x10 slx set up to a 1x10 using a Renthal 1XR 32T chainring, and my existing crank arms( does that sound like a good set up?). when setting it up on a hardtail, how will I know how many chain links to remove, or should I leave that part to the local shop?
+Jon Hogg That sounds fine. General chain length protocol for 1x setups is front ring/big rear cog + 4 links. If you drop the chain at all after setup then remove 1 link but otherwise leave it as it is.
Great video. Doing this asap.
Very infotmative! Thank you!
Very well done, cheers
Wish my shop was that clean...
Great vid. I run a 1x11 but want to convert my sons 24" 3x7 to a 1x 10. Only trouble is it looks like I need to spend the same amount on tools as components 😦
Hello, and please excuse my ignorance, I'm new to mountain biking... just betting my first mountain bike last week. Growing up I alway had 10-speed "English Racer" style bikes. I had a 1971 Schwann Continental, a 1972 Raleigh and a 1972 or 73 Sears Free Spirit 10-speed (manufactured by Raleigh that year). All were excellent bikes that that I road for many years and put 10's of thousands of miles on. And all are sill riding today... now own by my mom, brother and my sister. After many years (26) I've decided to get back into biking to get back into shape, and to stay in shape. Rather then getting another 10-speed bike like my pasted bikes, I wanted a mountain bike being that I'm 6'5" and 285 lbs. I bought a Raleigh Tokul 2, which only has one gear ring in the front, compared to the 2 rings I'm used to. At first I was worried that I bought a model that was less capable, noticing that the Raleigh Tokul 1 has the two gear rings in the front with the de-railer. And I was confused over that because the even though the Raleigh Tokul 2 only has the one ring, it's a higher end more expensive bike then the Tokul 1. While out riding, a guy with a Fuji Mountain bike stopped to look at mine and said he was going to convert his bike to just one gear ring. My questions, why would someone only want just one front gear ring... is it for reliability reasons... and also, do you lose speed and/or performance in any way? The guy at the park told me, "you just lose gears you never use anyway" ... but I simple don't know enough about mountain bike at this point to form my own opinion and to know whether or not he was right. I would appreciate you help on this matter, or from anyone else that could answer my question and helping me to understand. Best wishes...
Thank you sir, your reply and help is greatly appreciated. I will take your advice and get to know my bike well before thinking about any changes. Have no need for flat-out speed... just want a pleasurable ride and the gears needed for hills and inclines. Best wishes...
I had 3 ring setup for about 3 years and only once shifted out of the middle ring into the 3rd never the first it saves weight it's easier more reliable less maintenance more room on bars for stuff like dropper posts etc
green apple thank you for your reply. I'm going to ride as is for now, and decide in the Spring if I want to make any charges.
My only concern at this point is the slow speed on straight flat riding on paved surfaces (roads & paved bike paths), and on the down hills, I spinning out my petals (?) while at only about 16 MPH. On flat roads, I'm only able to cruise at 12 to 14 MPH. With my old Schinn Continental 10 speed, I was able to cruise at 16 or 18 MPH with minimal effort. Is this a normal for mountain bikes?
As for the lack of speed, I'm thinking more of a road/light trail tire? The knobby tires really seem to slow my bike down and give me very little coasting on level ground.
Thank you again and I greatly appreciate any help you guys can give me.
There's the magic of the middle ring. The one on which the chain can shift across the entire cassette without any serious problems. Lot of people, me included, use almost exclusively the middle one. I'd really like a 2x10 (30-22 rings) . Don't tell on me, as I've been and kinda still am opposed to 1x, but I might actually convert to 1x sooner or later ;) The conversion to 2x is a bit more complex than I'd like. It either requires some modifications which I'm not perfectly OK with, or new gear that could be more expensive than I'm willing to spend for such an upgrade. An upgrade to 1X is still a bit of a premium, but a conversion is quite simple and not too pricey.
Now instead of all the subjective crap you usually get from other users and marketing BS from the brands, here's the reality: It's not about the combinations, it's about the ratios.
I have a 29er with 10 speed 11-36T cassete and the chain rings are 40-30-22T. This gives me 30 different combinations. The thing is, it doesn't necessarily give me 30 different ratios. So here's the kicker: there's only 5 ratios which are out of the reach of the 30T ring. In other words, by removing the other two rings, I would only lose 2 of the highest gears and three of the lowest gears. I can do without the high gears, but the lowest ones - well I've gotten into climbs where I used them. I'm going to decide next year what to do. Currently, I'm changing my riding style and habits, so I'll need some more field testing.
Try riding just on your middle ring. See if it's too large or too small. Use bike gears calculator for comparisons. Choosing the right ring size is absolutely essential to get a functional 1x.
Also, there's a few thing to bare in mind. For instance, on a 3x setup, the middle ring isn't perfectly centred. So if you want to convert to 1x, you need to offset the ring by a few mm towards the low rear gears (the larger ones). Some of the aftermarket rings intended for conversion are offset on their own. Branded stuff usually requires you to use spacers.
In low gears my chain slips down when I peddle backwards half a stroke (ratcheting around big rocks to avoid peddle bashing) my chainring is as close to the BB as I can get it. Is there anything I can do to help align the front chainring closer to the frame and more in the middle of the cassette at the rear?
Good stuff!
Skip 1x10 altogether. Plenty of options now in 1x11. You will appreciate the closer ratios and range.
well ive read some comments and looked around but im just gonna come out and ask some questions..#1 Do they make this ring in a 22 to 25 teeth? #2 I have a 2017 GT Pantera Comp its a 2x9..Would I need anything to do this conversion with? I have been told by the bike shop that I need to use both rings up front to keep from wearing out the chain,rings,cassette,etc,..SO how can I use ONE ring and not cause any damage? #3 would i need shorter ring screws since going to a 1x over my 2x? Thanks for any clear answers..
can you make video on HOW TO CONVERT MY BIKE INTO A UNICYCLE?
What is the Pros of converting 3 Chain ring to single chain ring?Other than weight what change does it do on the brighter side.Im seeing some XC converting too.
So would a Single Chain ring have better pedaling efficiency at going uphill than a 3 chain ring set?Cuz i would like to modify my DH(Single) to triple chain ring so it could travel Uphill too.Would this be a mess up?
Thanks, it's really helful.
If you wanna go single in front you could use a bmx crank with a narrow racing chainring, i ride a KHE Erlkönig crank with titanium axle on my fully.
These are easier to install (no clamping bolts) and are nearly indestructable..
it can be done as long as the rear hub is 8/9/10 cogs compatible. then upgrade your chain, shifter and rear derailleur 10 speed.
Did you turn your SLX brakes into SEX brakes? Haha did I see that right?
Haha I had to go back and check, he definitely did lol
10:06 well spotted
Lmao "sex brakes"
is a 1 by 10 better and if so how is it better. plus by having the chain stay in one place at the front and move so much at the back wont that put strain on the chain?
hi, dumb question - if i change for single front, do i need to change the rear trans. for XX1 or so ? - or i can still use the old one that come with my bike is a Deore Trans. 10 speed ?
It's that easy? Wowser said Towser.I dig it.
I recently bought a hope narrow wide 34t to convert 3x9 to 1x9...question how many spacers do i need on the drive side?.at the moment there's 2 on the drive side & one on the other side.The issue i have is the chain line is not correct & it's tempting to take out one spacer on the drive side to put it right.please advise Al,would be appreciated cheers
I like this Tips, Thumbs-up from me.
Thank very much...
a single chainring makes sense as long as your a strong cyclist (and you will be soon enough without granny gears lol). no need for front mech complexity and another mud trap. i fitted a cheapy 44 tooth mighty crankset on my old marin. bikes now simpler, a bit lighter and much easier to clean.
You can be a weakling cyclist and run a 26,28 tooth direct mount chainring.
+Dan Henderson I agree I use a 30 tooth chain ring with a 36/11 cassette and this does for most long hard climbs. and plenty of speed on the downhill parts as momentum and gravity does most of the work for you.
Very nice!
hi there I'm doing a 1x11 convert on my cube mtb I've got a black spire chain guard with chain roller but when fitting the crank set back on if I push it on fully it will hit the frame of my bike wot would the spacers I need to bring chain ring out to miss my frame be called .or could I get a new bb where it will also do wot I need thank you. mark
I have put an 11 speed cassette on my new rear wheel, which has a sram xd driver. The shops are telling me I need to change the original derailier and change to a single chain ring up front. Could I not just change the rear derailier to an 11 speed one ? . Although my original will change to every gear except the 11 cog.
Hi, I am planning to build a 29er 27+ compatible bike from parts, in the meantime, I am looking into upgrading my current XC 26 bike, an old Gary Fisher 2005 Tassajara, converting it to a 1x10 or 1x11 setup, this way I can move those parts on the new bike.. Can I convert my Tassajara to this setup? What would I need to change?
Great video. My bike is a 2012 Trek Slash 7(will be using a e.13 LG1 ISCG OLD Chaingiude Black 36-40T) anytips? Thank you. Jamie
thanks really helpful
had the RaceFace narrow wide crank ring come out at the time of this vid? would of made it look alot nicer
just fitted a truvativ holtzfeller crank onto a howitzer bb, i have around 1-2mm of lateral travel thru the crank. is this normal? never fitted one before. or would i need an extra spacer or chain guide to take up slack?
In the shop they told me I can't do this due to the length of the bottom bracket. Is an octalink 113mm
Whats the bolt distance between? Is this standard for all shimano's? If I check online its boc 104 mm is this what you used?
I'm new to MTB and their many parts, but I'm a bit confused. I've watched a few videos now of how to remove a crankset and most of them use tools like the crank puller.... I didn't see that here, is that because of the style of crankset by any chance?
What if you tighten the preload screw in the cranks till it bottoms out?
think i might do this!
Thank you for sharing your experience with public. It has been very helpful. I have a question to ask outside this video, if you do not mind.
The gear of my bicycle, Giant brand, slips whenever I want to accelerate or go up a hill. What can be the cause? Thank you
It may be that your chain rings are worn, your chain itself is worn, or the derralieur/s may need adjustment. If your bike is a full suspension, you may have 'Chain Stretch' so replacing the chain may give you the best chances.
Thank you Travis
The rear or the front? If it happens whenever you start pedaling hard, it's either a worn chain, cassette, or both. If you have a new chain on a broken-in (as in not worn out yet but definitely used) cassette, it's normal for the chain to slip occasionally for about 100km before it stretches a bit.
Best to bring the bike into a shop. They'll change the chain a determine whether new cassette is necessary. Also ask them about a chain stretch measuring tool. The basic ones are really cheap, six bucks or less. It'll let you know when it's time to replace your chain before you start damaging the rear cassette.
@ CanlHasThis Name,
Thank you so much for taking time and explaining to me the possible cause of the problem and the way to fix it.I am obliged.
Use a narrow wide chainring and no chain guide required even if you are not using a clutch rear mech as I'm running just now and hardly ever drop a chain.
Could front gear be changed to bigger to increase speed with internal hub?
Thank you sir very nice!!
what kind of copper based anti seize do you use?
It's 12-14Nm for crank bolts
40Nm for bb
OUCH! Please do NOT use copper based anti seize when dealing with aluminum. It eats up the aluminum electrochemically. Research it.
Luke Kelly
Using a molybdenum disulphide grease or any lithium soap based grease (the green stuff for example that comes with shimano parts) would be my recommendation.
Have a great day :)
Luke Kelly You are very welcome! :D
+Max Lindner Those two types of grease will be ok for anything?
RustyR Yeah, pretty much good for everything...
+Max Lindner except forks and shocks...they don't recommend lithium based greases on those.
Do you do anything at all to your audio or are you just using the audio straight out of the camera?
Back when 10 speed was the latest thing
where'd you buy parts from have a hard time finding parts online ?
IF I were to convert a 29er being used for commuting, would this setup be advantageous. I ride on rail trails that get muddy in the spring, and through the winter with snow, ice, salt, sand, crap, etc. My current bike is a hybrid, and when I get a bit of mud in the gears/cables it doesn't shift as nice until I give it a bath/brushing out debris. How is the top end speed on flat straits with this setup?
+StormLaker1975 Its still got all the potential to go very fast, but its a matter if you're able to handle it. If you find it too easy you could always use a bigger teethed gear.
What if i just leave the middle chainring there?
Is there any alignment problem? I mean, how is it possible for the chain to remain straight at all the gears?
thanks dude
Muito bom cara parabéns n__n
Brasil - Crato - Ceará
36 as the low gear cassette in the back? And still get up the hills OK? Sorry, not here in the Pacific NW. I need at least a 42. That means that XT derailleur needs an extender link or the bike needs a new/different derailleur that can accommodate the wider range cassette (with shifters to match).
"And now just tap the axle out" he destroys the thing
I've converted 3x9 to 1x9, just changed front chainring and cassette and installed chainguide, it somehow doesnt work, the derrailer is colliding with the cassette, just waiting for wolftooth link, so Ill see if it's gonna work then