Nicely executed! I can honestly say that I learned something new that I would like to use in the future...the punch method. It's always neat to see a one-of-a-kind design come together. Well done!
I recently found out about centering punches too, from watching various videos on making adapter plates. You are correct in that you don't need much of a projection to punch the aluminum plate with the dowel pin. Since you have the lathe, you could make a set of center punches from various sized dowel pins and bolts or studs. Watching your videos gets the creative juices flowing. Thank you posting this.
This video kind of solves a dilemma that I have. I got a 96 Toyota Camry that is salvaged. Most of it is junk but the engine is amazing. It sat for two years and if the battery is charged it fires right up and sounds awesome with no issues. I want to put that engine in a dune buggy but don’t know how to switch the transmission to something that wasn’t designed for it. Now I know. Thanks.
Very nice. Impressive problem solving. At first I wondered why you didn't get the bolt holes cut for you, but then I saw why. I had the holes cut on my plasma strut plates and laser LCA relocation brackets, but they did not need to be perfectly aligned either. I've been using Adobe illustrator as my poor man's CAD. Seems to work pretty well in conjunction with the CNC router at work for plastic aided design. I'm going to try some offset templates with my hand plasma and see how that goes too
if the aluminum came in 5/8" you could have used this and 1/2" to give you the 1-1/8" thickness you needed. You could have built it with two 1/4" steel plates with one matching the GM engine and the other matching the Subaru. The Subaru and the GM matching plate would have required some appropriate nuts welded to the respective plate. Then you would need to weld in 1/8" filler on the outside and maybe some on the inside to join the two plates together. Where there are tapped holes in the GM block you would have to make some appropriate access holes to tighten the bolts the hold the GM matching plate to the block. Saw this method on the Scantron site. Do you happen to have the rough dimensions of the subie transmission? I am working on the design of a three- wheeler using the Subie to also drive the rear wheel. You have just the right machinery to make this a DIY project. Thank for the video.
Very cool. Another step closer with the buggy project. So cool that you can order an adapter plate or whatever you design like that. Where do you think you will take the buggy on it's maiden voyage with the new motor and trans?
Little late suggestion The 1/8” plate should’ve been steel and made into a “block plate” with a small hole for the crank, it would have covered up the flywheel and stopped junk from getting in ! Wooops ! 😆
hey man. again, excellent work. i'm learning so much from watching you for my adapter plate build. a question, if i may: when locating the engine dowel pins on the adapter, how did you ensure the adapter plate is correctly centered? considering the starter is on the bellhousing (thus proper starter/flywheel interface is assured) is centering the adapter plate around the crankshaft centerline somewhat less than supercritical? thanks again.
Thank you. The adapter was just visually centered around the flywheel, thats not critical. Once the pins are drilled on the engine side, I use the pilot bearing and the transmission input shaft to center the trans on the engine, thus on the adapter as well.
For centering the adapter plate you can use composite wedge shims you can find at Lowe's or Home Depot or most lumber yards. Put the plate on over the ring gear and put the wedges between so that you have the same amount of wedge between the two parts. The make the punch mark. That should get the plate centered on the block. The composite (plastic) wedges are not at all expensive. You will find other uses for them too.
Hello spankranch, I run a fully built VW bus 6 rib transmission with a Subaru motor and am tired of having to rebuild the trans every 3 years on my buggy. Have you ever heard of anyone running something other than a VW trans with a subaru ?? . I know there is a Australian company that is doing it .But they are quite expensive . Nice Video like your idea .
I think the 6 rib might be the stronger trans here, and it has more aftermarket support, though expensive. I like the subaru trans because there only a few hundred bucks and I can get them everywhere. Ideally I would run a 6-rib too but availability and cost pushed me in this direction.
Stuff like this makes me think I should make a video on the subaru-engine-to-upside-down-subaru-transmission adapter plate I made so it could be used in a rear engine application.
I thought I saw something online that the ring gear on the Subie can be switched to the opposite side to allow for a rear mounted engine ala the air-cooled VW. If you want a mid-engine setup using the VW transaxle from the air-cooled cars, you simply flip the ring gear to the opposite side of the transaxle. Pretty sure you can do the same with the Subaru transaxle.
Buen trabajo de matricero, prolijo, lo que me cuesta entender es el significado de destapar una latita frente a cámara, lo único que se me ocurre es que esté empecinado en imitar a Homer Simpson 😂 Por otro lado las transmisiones Subaru son conocidas por no soportar demasiado torque en vehículos tunning
@@spankranchgarage por ser un medio de difusión no está dejando un buen ejemplo, hay que tener cuidado con eso, para saciar la sed agua, si te gusta la cerveza, whisky, ron, tequila, en privado. Para este caso en particular no aporta nada, éxitos!!!!
@@spankranchgarage If the transaxle doesn't work out there is also the VW Vanagon transaxle. It will hold up to 200 HP. In the late 60s and early 70s folks used to bolt the Corvair engine to the Type 1 transaxle with no issues. Those transaxles were much tougher than most folks realize.
I'm doing a similar project. do you think that steel would work as well, I am good with cad and have a small plasma table, but nobody makes the adapter out of steel, why is that?
I considered steel as well. Its cheaper but its going to be pretty heavy if yours comes out as thick as mine had to. If you check out Robot Cantina on youtube, they made a steel one to fit a Kubota engine to a Saturn trans. Theirs is sheet metal with spacers. Theres many ways to make it happen
Also I'm doing a gm 3800 out of a park ave. I just scored a legacy last weekend and the tranny is out and waiting the unholy union of Japanese and Mexican production.
@@billjenkins3699 Ill find out I guess. I know the gen 1 1.4T was problematic but I havent seen any failures on these new Gen 2 motors, other than piston failure due to knock.
@spankranchgarage it's just another tiny little engine working extremely hard to produce more power than it can tolerate. It is literally a throw away! That's why it was made so poorly after 5-7 years the car isn't worth the cost of replacing the engine... plan complete
@@billjenkins3699 I agree. Certainly not worth all this effort for such small returns. I've learned over the years to go with a combo that's wildly supported by the aftermarket instead of something cheap or different.
CAD (cardboard aided design)
Awesome video! SpankRanch really is a hidden gem with how much effort and knowlegde goes into this!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Wow. Great job. I’m jealous of all your machining tools and skills to use them 👍👍
I learn so much from your videos! Thanks for all the excellent content!
Awesome, thank you!
Nicely executed! I can honestly say that I learned something new that I would like to use in the future...the punch method. It's always neat to see a one-of-a-kind design come together. Well done!
I'm learning every day here trying to figure this stuff out. Thanks for watching!
I recently found out about centering punches too, from watching various videos on making adapter plates. You are correct in that you don't need much of a projection to punch the aluminum plate with the dowel pin. Since you have the lathe, you could make a set of center punches from various sized dowel pins and bolts or studs.
Watching your videos gets the creative juices flowing. Thank you posting this.
Amazing work! Can’t wait to see the buggy running again 🥲
You and me both!
Great problem solving using your head
👍
I'm super interested to see what you do about the starter situation. Don't spoil it, I'll happily wait and see.
Love the locating punches
This video kind of solves a dilemma that I have. I got a 96 Toyota Camry that is salvaged. Most of it is junk but the engine is amazing. It sat for two years and if the battery is charged it fires right up and sounds awesome with no issues. I want to put that engine in a dune buggy but don’t know how to switch the transmission to something that wasn’t designed for it. Now I know. Thanks.
Sounds like a plan good luck!
Very nice. Impressive problem solving. At first I wondered why you didn't get the bolt holes cut for you, but then I saw why. I had the holes cut on my plasma strut plates and laser LCA relocation brackets, but they did not need to be perfectly aligned either.
I've been using Adobe illustrator as my poor man's CAD. Seems to work pretty well in conjunction with the CNC router at work for plastic aided design. I'm going to try some offset templates with my hand plasma and see how that goes too
I have a wheel idea I should pick your brain on. I think I have a good plan, but some fresh eyes might help too
Your locater pins are f@#$@# genius. Yoink. Thanks bro.
The little tricks go a long way!
if the aluminum came in 5/8" you could have used this and 1/2" to give you the 1-1/8" thickness you needed. You could have built it with two 1/4" steel plates with one matching the GM engine and the other matching the Subaru. The Subaru and the GM matching plate would have required some appropriate nuts welded to the respective plate. Then you would need to weld in 1/8" filler on the outside and maybe some on the inside to join the two plates together. Where there are tapped holes in the GM block you would have to make some appropriate access holes to tighten the bolts the hold the GM matching plate to the block.
Saw this method on the Scantron site.
Do you happen to have the rough dimensions of the subie transmission? I am working on the design of a three- wheeler using the Subie to also drive the rear wheel.
You have just the right machinery to make this a DIY project. Thank for the video.
I with i had the equipment to build an adapter. I have always wanted to adapt a mercedes turbo diesel to a volvo trans to drop in a volvo wagon.
Nice
12.39, someone's been watching cutting edge engineering.
CEE rocks.
Love that channel!
Very cool. Another step closer with the buggy project. So cool that you can order an adapter plate or whatever you design like that. Where do you think you will take the buggy on it's maiden voyage with the new motor and trans?
Ill take her for a few rips at my local spot then hopefully back to West Virginia for a big trip this summer. Times Ticking!
👍🏻
Little late suggestion
The 1/8” plate should’ve been steel and made into a “block plate” with a small hole for the crank, it would have covered up the flywheel and stopped junk from getting in !
Wooops ! 😆
Only need to re-make the one plate ! Steel is cheaper ! PS scatter shields have them 👍
Man I wish I talked to you before I built it! But you are spot on, that's a great idea
Loving this. Thanks a lot for sharing. Smart and creative stuff. Subbed.
Thanks for the sub!
hey man. again, excellent work. i'm learning so much from watching you for my adapter plate build. a question, if i may: when locating the engine dowel pins on the adapter, how did you ensure the adapter plate is correctly centered? considering the starter is on the bellhousing (thus proper starter/flywheel interface is assured) is centering the adapter plate around the crankshaft centerline somewhat less than supercritical? thanks again.
Thank you. The adapter was just visually centered around the flywheel, thats not critical. Once the pins are drilled on the engine side, I use the pilot bearing and the transmission input shaft to center the trans on the engine, thus on the adapter as well.
For centering the adapter plate you can use composite wedge shims you can find at Lowe's or Home Depot or most lumber yards. Put the plate on over the ring gear and put the wedges between so that you have the same amount of wedge between the two parts. The make the punch mark. That should get the plate centered on the block. The composite (plastic) wedges are not at all expensive. You will find other uses for them too.
How did you lengthen the input shaft, As you have added in an inch and a quarter adapter plate?
Love your videos, keep making them.
Luckily I didn't have to. The Subaru input shaft naturally extends past the bellhousing face making it a good transmission for this kind of swap.
Thank you for your reply, keep up the good work😀
Hello spankranch, I run a fully built VW bus 6 rib transmission with a Subaru motor and am tired of having to rebuild the trans every 3 years on my buggy. Have you ever heard of anyone running something other than a VW trans with a subaru ?? . I know there is a Australian company that is doing it .But they are quite expensive . Nice Video like your idea .
I think the 6 rib might be the stronger trans here, and it has more aftermarket support, though expensive. I like the subaru trans because there only a few hundred bucks and I can get them everywhere. Ideally I would run a 6-rib too but availability and cost pushed me in this direction.
Stuff like this makes me think I should make a video on the subaru-engine-to-upside-down-subaru-transmission adapter plate I made so it could be used in a rear engine application.
Any oiling problems doing that? I considered that option at one point.
I thought I saw something online that the ring gear on the Subie can be switched to the opposite side to allow for a rear mounted engine ala the air-cooled VW. If you want a mid-engine setup using the VW transaxle from the air-cooled cars, you simply flip the ring gear to the opposite side of the transaxle. Pretty sure you can do the same with the Subaru transaxle.
@@jpvill4th Subarugears out of Aus makes a reversed ring and pinion kit to do just that. It's not as simple as just flipping the diff over.
Very nice! What CAD software did you use?
Fusion 360! It’s free!
Buen trabajo de matricero, prolijo, lo que me cuesta entender es el significado de destapar una latita frente a cámara, lo único que se me ocurre es que esté empecinado en imitar a Homer Simpson 😂
Por otro lado las transmisiones Subaru son conocidas por no soportar demasiado torque en vehículos tunning
Tengo mucha sed y me encanta la cerveza. Tienes razón, la transmisión Subaru es débil. Pero con sólo 150 whp espero que sobreviva. ¡Gracias por ver!
@@spankranchgarage por ser un medio de difusión no está dejando un buen ejemplo, hay que tener cuidado con eso, para saciar la sed agua, si te gusta la cerveza, whisky, ron, tequila, en privado. Para este caso en particular no aporta nada, éxitos!!!!
@@spankranchgarage If the transaxle doesn't work out there is also the VW Vanagon transaxle. It will hold up to 200 HP.
In the late 60s and early 70s folks used to bolt the Corvair engine to the Type 1 transaxle with no issues. Those transaxles were much tougher than most folks realize.
What program you used to do the design?
Fusion 360
I'm doing a similar project. do you think that steel would work as well, I am good with cad and have a small plasma table, but nobody makes the adapter out of steel, why is that?
I considered steel as well. Its cheaper but its going to be pretty heavy if yours comes out as thick as mine had to. If you check out Robot Cantina on youtube, they made a steel one to fit a Kubota engine to a Saturn trans. Theirs is sheet metal with spacers. Theres many ways to make it happen
@spankranchgarage can you shoot me the 360 file you made, I'm gonna cnc one today....please and thanks
Also I'm doing a gm 3800 out of a park ave. I just scored a legacy last weekend and the tranny is out and waiting the unholy union of Japanese and Mexican production.
@@adamchristensen1338 shoot me an email at Barrymaxx@gmail.com You will have to modify this for your 3800. That uses the GM 60* v6 pattern BTW
The most glaring error I can point out would be .... too slow beer cadence 😁
Need 1 for a ls
Is it coincidence that drinking Bud Light and working on a trans adaptation....
Its 2023 I am just trying to stay relevant!
Woulda been faster if you took a pic and then uploaded it and pulled dimensions
Maybe in some cases. Here I had to have the trans and engine together to determine overlap etc
This is lousy engine should be putting Subaru in buick
Really? What kind of issues have you been seeing with them?
@@spankranchgarage do little research it's gonna throw parts at you
@@billjenkins3699 Ill find out I guess. I know the gen 1 1.4T was problematic but I havent seen any failures on these new Gen 2 motors, other than piston failure due to knock.
@spankranchgarage it's just another tiny little engine working extremely hard to produce more power than it can tolerate. It is literally a throw away! That's why it was made so poorly after 5-7 years the car isn't worth the cost of replacing the engine... plan complete
@@billjenkins3699 I agree. Certainly not worth all this effort for such small returns. I've learned over the years to go with a combo that's wildly supported by the aftermarket instead of something cheap or different.