I bought a low cost Draper horizontal/ vertical saw (probably came from the same manufacturer) after seeing your film I checked the gear box.. some brass particles in the oil..and the steel worm gear fully seated in the brass gear...it’s worth changing the oil but I think it is designed to wear in, to be fully engaged.
I always appreciate someone taking the time to make a video on a product that I'm interested in but seriously edit this video. It doesn't need to be longer than 5 minutes to get your point across. Thanks again
Defnotdemas: yes it IS sharp and your right about it; I should have cautioned the viewers. Thanks for noting that. Seems a lot of people have done the gearbox check on thier machine since this video. I'm just happy to help.
Regarding repeating myself: as stated in the video I really hadn't set out to do the video at all. But it is absolutely true, it would be better not to repeat yourself so much. so much. so much. Lol
Even though mine has the four bolt cover. It is the same SKU as the saw in this video! 93762. The gear will survive if you don't do this, but it will wear way more during break in. I did not do this procedure before I turned on the saw, thinking that my saw was updated. After running it for two minutes max, I opened up the gear box to find a lot of brass in the oil. Not chunks, but more like dust. There seemed to be nearly a 50/50 mix of the brass dust in the oil (probably not) Now there is some backlash in the gear that didn't need to be there. I have de-burred the worm gear now in order to ensure no further wear occurs. I also ordered another brass gear to replace this one if it does ever fails. The other notable thing about this experience was that the factory over-FILLED the resivoir. So if you do open up the gear box, get some rags underneath for the excess oil! I used a rubber ball style turkey baster to suck out the oil. Worked great. (Everyone should have one in their garage anyways) I used a rag to sop up the rest. Finish by spraying it down with brake clean and repeat. Fill with 85/140 unless you are able to find strait 140 gear oil. Factory recommends 140, but I could only find the 85/140 when I looked.
BTW the Grizzly manual for this size saw is much better written and more detailed you can down load it from their web site for free. Furthermore they have a parts list with numbers that can be easily ordered for a fairly decent cost some parts may or may not be an exact fit for the Harbor Freight version.
Regarding taking the gear off: others have found it quite difficult to take the gear off owing to how severe the gear was pounded onto the shaft from the manufacturer. Besides, if you can deburr effectively while on, and it is no big deal to change the lube, that would be an efficient approach as it seems to me.
great video !!! I need a worm gear for my type BS-450C 4x6 band saw with date of 2001.3. on it ! It looks just like yours with 23 teeth ....only thing is that it is flat on both sides and measures about 1 7/8" dia. and roughly 3/4" thick 5/8" shaft with a key way but held on by a threaded nut . going crazy trying to find on..... can you help with some leads or something ? Thanks much
Instead of a file you probably could use a sanding disk on a Dremel to burnish the gear. I am of the opinion that this coupling of the two gears would eventually wear in and all will be OK if you do nothing other than maybe change the oil after a couple hours.......
John Acuff is right guys. Mineral spirits is better and safer. Actually I had that around too when I was investigating the issue on my tool. Just be sure to wipe the spirits off the gasket, then coat the gasket with your lubricant before assembly to avoid any chemical interaction.
Thank you for the valuable information. I am thinking of buying one. As to the comments about repeating yourself, or editing, don't worry about it. Just keep making videos. I watch You Tube videos for useful information. If I want slick, polished entertainment,, I will go to netflix LOL
First off, the pulley on the motor shaft is upside down. The large sheave on one pulley should match up to the small sheave on the opposite, and vice-versa. Also, you never use gasoline as a cleaning solvent or even worse, recommend it. Mineral spirits will do same job and be much safer, and it's not that expensive to buy a gallon jug at the local hardware store.
Excellent video. Thank you for the heads up and detail. I think this machine might find its way in to my shop this season. I am in the process of researching it and the information you shared doesn't put me off - it is exactly the kind of information I was after when I went researching! Great stuff. Keep the videos coming.
Thats why these tools are so cheap because you have to do all the finishing work yourself. If you have more time then money they are the way to go. Keep up the videos.
Great and most helpful video [as you refer to yourself, new to this] I wanted to learn everything I could before I buy this item... I appreciate your efforts and message, very much, Thank You!
I'm glad I watched. So if I get one, I will deburr the worm gear and then polish it as good as possible . Then I will probably go with a 140 synthetic gear lube. That should give it the best chance at lasting. I doubt they even offer replacement parts.
All gears wear out, only worm and worm gears wear in, thus eventually they create a more efficient transfer of power. No need to be obsessive about any rough edges on the worm gear, just take any hard steel like a dowel pin and roll the flash down, it will most likely shear off anyway. Do break it in- remove the blade and just let her run for a while, flush the reservoir, and refill with gear lube- make sure it is API GL4, not 5, to keep the brass safe.
It's supposed to be like that. It's the break in period.Keep it fully oiled.Also the the slop is the backlash.The brass gear is replaceable. Good luck!!!
This is pretty much standard procedure for anything from Harbor Freight. They do a crap job of cleaning the casting sand and machining bits from their equipment. Best lifetime is achieved by disassembling the stuff, cleaning, relubing and reassembling. Even stuff like their sheet metal brakes.
Maybe when the machine was assembled and tested the bearing wheels were misaligned and the blade tensioner was too tight but that brass gear idk but I would swap that out for a steel gear and load up the lube and do a complete alignment on the machine.
The brass material is indicated in that use case from an engineering point of view as it is coincidered the best point in the gear chain to be used as a sacrificial part..I.E. It is designed to wear out first an easiest to replace.
I have got a saw just like the one in video that is a BS-450C with date of 2001.3. the worm gear is totally done for !! I am going crazy trying to find a replacement and am having no luck ! It measures (with tape measure) 1 7/8" dia. 23 tooth looks like 5/8" shaft with a key and held onto the shaft with a threaded nut ! Can anyone help me to where I can find one ? Thanks
Enjoyed the video, Just bought the same saw last week and I know what I will do in the morning, Check the gear box, This is my 3rd bandsaw over the past 30 years, This new one is a little more power full but takes more TLC. later from Texas.
I noticed one of your pullys are on upside down as well. Mine came the same way. I then went to harbor freight to see the floor model and sure enough they had the pullys wrong on that as well. So frustrating. The manual as well as the speed adjustment diagram on the cover show the pullys in the correct position. Thank you for the video. My worm gear was very tight also and would actually stop the motor.
Thanks for the video. If you want to make good videos, don't repeat yourself. You told us the gear had sharp edges 5 or 6 times. We got it the first time. Other than than that, it was a good video. Thanks .
the equalizer No, because the cut bronze gear is much cheaper and easier to replace than the hardened steel worm drive and shaft. This bronze gear could very easily be made in an afternoon by hand on a bench if needed be. bronze is also hard enough that it is very wear resistent despite its softness compared to hardened steel. This is actually very well thought out engineering.
An Aluminum bronze gear would be ideal. However, you would have to machine it yourself. The alloy is called C95400. It's harder than brass but softer than cold finished steel.
He complains about quality control...have you ever seen what a 10 year old makes? 10 year old Chinese kids are cranking this stuff out in sweat shops as we watch this video...
Very good. Essential prep work if you use China power tools, i do have some. Amsoil marine severe duty gear oil will last a lifetime and will protect from moister if you take it in and out of a heated garage. For me i like to put everything on wheels and drag outside when making a mess cutting or grinding. As for using the dremel i say "power tools power mistakes". Use the file and emery paper in that order like Tim did. You don't want a dimple or low spot on the face of that worm gear!
No need to go through all that. I bought the same saw, had a heat problem, so I checked the gearbox and found the same situation, in fact the one gear was not bored concentrically so it got tight for half a turn then freed up a bit for other half. To fix, don't take anything apart. Clean out all grease and oil and run the saw with the gearbox cover off. As it is running, dab coarse lapping compound on the worm gear. The worm is harder than the brass, so the brass will act as a charged lap and grind the worm gear down pretty quickly. It will make grinding noise on first application, then when noise goes away dab again and again wait until noise dies down. Shut off, clean out, then repeat with fine compound. Clean it out with solvent and then blow out with air to get all particulate out and then pack with axle grease. Fixed. Any media still left in the gear will be negligible and a gear like that can be a little loose because it only goes one way so backlash doesn't matter. Hope this helps someone.
I am watching your video and I am questioning your knowledge of a worm drive, that worm gears only turn in one Direction. In this case it is the side that is burnished not the rough side. I have had my saw for 7 years now with no problems other than the oil leaking out around the seal
Yes there is metal in the oil . That is why you use to change the oil in your new car after a thousand miles. It is called break in. The parts are wearing the high spots off. If you think it doesn't happen, wait until you change the transmission oil in your new car. Maybe you are one of those who just take it to the dealer for things like that so you never see the real world.
I have been buying equipment from harbor freight for years and had very good luck with everything ! This equipment is priced cheap ! if you want high end equipment your going to pay for it ! that worm gear would have lasted years the way it is , its not like its turning 10,000 RPM's ! do people really expect perfection from a discount store ???
I bought a low cost Draper horizontal/ vertical saw (probably came from the same manufacturer) after seeing your film I checked the gear box.. some brass particles in the oil..and the steel worm gear fully seated in the brass gear...it’s worth changing the oil but I think it is designed to wear in, to be fully engaged.
I always appreciate someone taking the time to make a video on a product that I'm interested in but seriously edit this video. It doesn't need to be longer than 5 minutes to get your point across. Thanks again
Thanks for taking the time Tim. Good video series for this machine.
Defnotdemas: yes it IS sharp and your right about it; I should have cautioned the viewers. Thanks for noting that. Seems a lot of people have done the gearbox check on thier machine since this video. I'm just happy to help.
I bought that one and it's better than I expected. Happy customer.
I’ve had mine from 1980. Never had a problem. You have to be smarter than the tool.
Regarding repeating myself: as stated in the video I really hadn't set out to do the video at all. But it is absolutely true, it would be better not to repeat yourself so much. so much. so much. Lol
You were fine, you hit all of the major points and clearly communicated what need to be said - thank you.
Even though mine has the four bolt cover. It is the same SKU as the saw in this video! 93762. The gear will survive if you don't do this, but it will wear way more during break in. I did not do this procedure before I turned on the saw, thinking that my saw was updated. After running it for two minutes max, I opened up the gear box to find a lot of brass in the oil. Not chunks, but more like dust. There seemed to be nearly a 50/50 mix of the brass dust in the oil (probably not) Now there is some backlash in the gear that didn't need to be there. I have de-burred the worm gear now in order to ensure no further wear occurs. I also ordered another brass gear to replace this one if it does ever fails. The other notable thing about this experience was that the factory over-FILLED the resivoir. So if you do open up the gear box, get some rags underneath for the excess oil! I used a rubber ball style turkey baster to suck out the oil. Worked great. (Everyone should have one in their garage anyways) I used a rag to sop up the rest. Finish by spraying it down with brake clean and repeat. Fill with 85/140 unless you are able to find strait 140 gear oil. Factory recommends 140, but I could only find the 85/140 when I looked.
BTW the Grizzly manual for this size saw is much better written and more detailed you can down load it from their web site for free. Furthermore they have a parts list with numbers that can be easily ordered for a fairly decent cost some parts may or may not be an exact fit for the Harbor Freight version.
Great point Rob!
Good information. My saw came with a clean gearbox but you never know with budget tools until you check.
Regarding taking the gear off: others have found it quite difficult to take the gear off owing to how severe the gear was pounded onto the shaft from the manufacturer. Besides, if you can deburr effectively while on, and it is no big deal to change the lube, that would be an efficient approach as it seems to me.
great video !!! I need a worm gear for my type BS-450C 4x6 band saw with date of 2001.3. on it ! It looks just like yours with 23 teeth ....only thing is that it is flat on both sides and measures about 1 7/8" dia. and roughly 3/4" thick 5/8" shaft with a key way but held on by a threaded nut . going crazy trying to find on..... can you help with some leads or something ? Thanks much
Instead of a file you probably could use a sanding disk on a Dremel to burnish the gear.
I am of the opinion that this coupling of the two gears would eventually wear in and all will be OK if you do nothing other than maybe change the oil after a couple hours.......
I wanted to watch but it's too frustrating listening
Take it back and buy one for $ 1000 and learn to put your thoughts together before you make a video .
John Acuff is right guys. Mineral spirits is better and safer. Actually I had that around too when I was investigating the issue on my tool. Just be sure to wipe the spirits off the gasket, then coat the gasket with your lubricant before assembly to avoid any chemical interaction.
Thanks mate , mine is still in the box and will do the polishing you have shown!!
Thank you for the valuable information. I am thinking of buying one. As to the comments about repeating yourself, or editing, don't worry about it. Just keep making videos. I watch You Tube videos for useful information. If I want slick, polished entertainment,, I will go to netflix LOL
Thanks for this useful info about the gearbox :)
First off, the pulley on the motor shaft is upside down. The large sheave on one pulley should match up to the small sheave on the opposite, and vice-versa. Also, you never use gasoline as a cleaning solvent or even worse, recommend it. Mineral spirits will do same job and be much safer, and it's not that expensive to buy a gallon jug at the local hardware store.
i guess Im pretty off topic but does anybody know a good site to watch new tv shows online ?
@Henrik Alexis flixportal :)
@Ali Harper thank you, I went there and it seems like they got a lot of movies there :) Appreciate it!
Excellent video. Thank you for the heads up and detail. I think this machine might find its way in to my shop this season. I am in the process of researching it and the information you shared doesn't put me off - it is exactly the kind of information I was after when I went researching! Great stuff. Keep the videos coming.
It seems metal flakes in the grease and oil of Harbor Freight tools is not uncommon and I'm glad people make videos to point them out. Thanks.
Thats why these tools are so cheap because you have to do all the finishing work yourself. If you have more time then money they are the way to go. Keep up the videos.
Great and most helpful video [as you refer to yourself, new to this] I wanted to learn everything I could before I buy this item...
I appreciate your efforts and message, very much, Thank You!
I'm glad I watched. So if I get one, I will deburr the worm gear and then polish it as good as possible . Then I will probably go with a 140 synthetic gear lube. That should give it the best chance at lasting. I doubt they even offer replacement parts.
Thank You Gary Busey :)
All gears wear out, only worm and worm gears wear in, thus eventually they create a more efficient transfer of power. No need to be obsessive about any rough edges on the worm gear, just take any hard steel like a dowel pin and roll the flash down, it will most likely shear off anyway. Do break it in- remove the blade and just let her run for a while, flush the reservoir, and refill with gear lube- make sure it is API GL4, not 5, to keep the brass safe.
Good point!
Thank you for the detail, great work
Informative, thanks. and hey the "cloud" is not crap. The cloud makes my house payment
Curious, using Linux or Azure on the cloud?
It’s my understanding that the “spiral” gear is the worm gear, and the mating gear is the worm wheel.
Thank you great video!
sure glad i watched this video thanks alot mister !!! save me some heart ache
It's supposed to be like that. It's the break in period.Keep it fully oiled.Also the the slop is the backlash.The brass gear is replaceable. Good luck!!!
This is pretty much standard procedure for anything from Harbor Freight. They do a crap job of cleaning the casting sand and machining bits from their equipment. Best lifetime is achieved by disassembling the stuff, cleaning, relubing and reassembling. Even stuff like their sheet metal brakes.
Your quite the wordsmith there. Lmao.
Maybe when the machine was assembled and tested the bearing wheels were misaligned and the blade tensioner was too tight but that brass gear idk but I would swap that out for a steel gear and load up the lube and do a complete alignment on the machine.
You don't want to do that.... leave that brass gear there, it's there for a reason....
The brass material is indicated in that use case from an engineering point of view as it is coincidered the best point in the gear chain to be used as a sacrificial part..I.E. It is designed to wear out first an easiest to replace.
I have got a saw just like the one in video that is a BS-450C with date of 2001.3. the worm gear is totally done for !! I am going crazy trying to find a replacement and am having no luck ! It measures (with tape measure) 1 7/8" dia. 23 tooth looks like 5/8" shaft with a key and held onto the shaft with a threaded nut ! Can anyone help me to where I can find one ? Thanks
i thought sure i was watching the famous boxing trainer Freddie Roach.
Enjoyed the video, Just bought the same saw last week and I know what I will do in the morning, Check the gear box, This is my 3rd bandsaw over the past 30 years, This new one is a little more power full but takes more TLC. later from Texas.
ps NEVER use gas as a solvent it is a fire/explosion hazard use kerosene or diesel oil!!
Great tip thanks
I noticed one of your pullys are on upside down as well. Mine came the same way. I then went to harbor freight to see the floor model and sure enough they had the pullys wrong on that as well. So frustrating. The manual as well as the speed adjustment diagram on the cover show the pullys in the correct position.
Thank you for the video. My worm gear was very tight also and would actually stop the motor.
The pulley on the left is upside down look at your manual.
Thanks for the video. If you want to make good videos, don't repeat yourself. You told us the gear had sharp edges 5 or 6 times. We got it the first time. Other than than that, it was a good video. Thanks .
So the moral of the story is have some self respect and get a better brand of tool.
Somewhat helpful but tedious and repetitive.
Mine started leaking from the bottom wheel area !!
Go to "Ophthalmologist" (NOT Optometrist)when something stock in your eye ball...
Emery Board stuck, not stock.
I see, said the blind man, as he picked up his hammer and saw!
Would it be wise to put a hard steel gear on instead of the brass one?
the equalizer No, because the cut bronze gear is much cheaper and easier to replace than the hardened steel worm drive and shaft. This bronze gear could very easily be made in an afternoon by hand on a bench if needed be.
bronze is also hard enough that it is very wear resistent despite its softness compared to hardened steel.
This is actually very well thought out engineering.
An Aluminum bronze gear would be ideal. However, you would have to machine it yourself. The alloy is called C95400. It's harder than brass but softer than cold finished steel.
never use gasoline as a solvent use kerosene or fuel oil please.
He complains about quality control...have you ever seen what a 10 year old makes? 10 year old Chinese kids are cranking this stuff out in sweat shops as we watch this video...
But is work or not
Very good. Essential prep work if you use China power tools, i do have some. Amsoil marine severe duty gear oil will last a lifetime and will protect from moister if you take it in and out of a heated garage. For me i like to put everything on wheels and drag outside when making a mess cutting or grinding. As for using the dremel i say "power tools power mistakes". Use the file and emery paper in that order like Tim did. You don't want a dimple or low spot on the face of that worm gear!
You have one of your belt pullys on upside down
No need to go through all that. I bought the same saw, had a heat problem, so I checked the gearbox and found the same situation, in fact the one gear was not bored concentrically so it got tight for half a turn then freed up a bit for other half. To fix, don't take anything apart. Clean out all grease and oil and run the saw with the gearbox cover off. As it is running, dab coarse lapping compound on the worm gear. The worm is harder than the brass, so the brass will act as a charged lap and grind the worm gear down pretty quickly. It will make grinding noise on first application, then when noise goes away dab again and again wait until noise dies down. Shut off, clean out, then repeat with fine compound. Clean it out with solvent and then blow out with air to get all particulate out and then pack with axle grease. Fixed. Any media still left in the gear will be negligible and a gear like that can be a little loose because it only goes one way so backlash doesn't matter. Hope this helps someone.
I am watching your video and I am questioning your knowledge of a worm drive, that worm gears only turn in one Direction. In this case it is the side that is burnished not the rough side. I have had my saw for 7 years now with no problems other than the oil leaking out around the seal
Jesus, It took you over 5 minutes to give us any useful tips.
Yes there is metal in the oil . That is why you use to change the oil in your new car after a thousand miles. It is called break in. The parts are wearing the high spots off. If you think it doesn't happen, wait until you change the transmission oil in your new car. Maybe you are one of those who just take it to the dealer for things like that so you never see the real world.
I have been buying equipment from harbor freight for years and had very good luck with everything ! This equipment is priced cheap ! if you want high end equipment your going to pay for it ! that worm gear would have lasted years the way it is , its not like its turning 10,000 RPM's ! do people really expect perfection from a discount store ???
WTF???
lol this video is demonic with the fill in vocals..... Good video but my neck hairs stand up
Lol. Don't get those hairs caught in the gears! Lol