Hey Joel. I am also a big fan of the T4 and got 3 of them. On my newest syncro i had exactely the same issue and did it almost as you. Except the wheel arch - which i had welded with a new pice of metal. Greetings from Germany. - Have fun with your T4 !!!
Hello Joel, and seasonal greetings. Just discovered your video. I have this task to look forward to soon. Firstly I must tackle renewing the left side outrigger member to pass the retest (controle technique of France) in two months time. I think that I will wait until some warmer, drier weather before the leaf/acorn/rust treatment work though. Thank you for your well-explained video. Bob from Brittany.
You all probably dont care but does anyone know a method to get back into an Instagram account?? I somehow forgot my account password. I would love any help you can give me
@Hugh Marc Thanks for your reply. I got to the site on google and Im trying it out atm. I see it takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Been there, done this :) In germany we call this part "the composter" and my bus got a LOT of compost in there, due the previous owner parked in a tree-lined road :)) But unfortunately the fenders where point welded on. So I cleared it with a hard water beam gushing in there for half an hour through every slit I found.
I’ve been watching your vids for a few years and picked up some useful diy skills thanks. I see you’ve now added welding to your portfolio! Your a braver man than me!! I need to tackle my wheel arches and sills soon as there are signs of rust. I never understand the design of them as it seems a design flaw to have a lip that collects crud and water. Rather than repair it with filler why not just trim off the lip so it’s flush with the bodywork?
Thank you. It is a poor design in my opinion. I find the body filler is just a quick and easy fix for something that is jut cosmetic. I don’t even have the time to look any further into it 😂
Hi. I am the owner of a VW T4 Multivan and I would like to do this outflow in the pit like you. You can write where you bought and what are the names of these nuts for the holes in the shaft and the hose connection?
Thanks. It all depends on what metal you are working with. My general rule of thumb with this welder is to use power setting 4 for thicker parts, and 3 for thinner metal if 4 burns through it. I use 2 if I want to fill in gaps or rust holes with wire. I am not a welder, but it seems to work ok for me. Good luck!
Cracking repair hope you have turned down your wire speed and your welds will be peach . I was luck on my t4 as no rust or leafs no idea how as mine is a 91 t4 👍👍👍😜🏴🦄🦕😁✌️🤞
Hi great video, just about to start my T4 project, Could someone please link this drain kit please, I can't find them on ebay, and no seller called Cibulator Thanks 😎🤙
Hello Sir, I love your channel. Do you have a link for those pipes by any chance please? Was thinking of doing this job with some old washing machine pipe, but if the price is right, could go for those ones. Cheers
Hi Ben, the listing I purchased has expired, but you can find the same product on eBay for about £26 if you search for "Volkswagen Transporter T4 fender water outlet". Good Luck!
I still don't understand the design.. if you didn't have the drainage kit and you just took the panel off to clear out the leaves and muck and left it at that, where would the water drain after entering the scuttle hole by the windscreen? I saw some water ingress on mine from the bonnet latch screw holes (tho I'd removed the latch so maybe normally the screws plugged the hole).. Just wondering if removing the fendor and clearing the crap will help the water drainage?
Hi. To be honest I don’t really understand the original design myself - it seems flawed. I would recommend that anyone with a t4 remove the fender and clear out the leaves. The drainage tubes are optional but to be honest, since fitting these I have still gained a buildup of leaves and debris again. Best of luck!
And it's so easy! Inner fenders, fluid film and steam jet! Greetings T4 ACU 330 000 Bj 1995;) unwelded! Und dabei ist es so einfach ! Innenkotflügel, Fluid Film und Dampfstrahler ! Gruß T4 ACU 330000 Bj 1995 ;) ungeschweißt !
Hi. These small ones don’t seem to last too long. It’s hard to say, but I’ve got through about 6 bottles with all of the welding I have done on my van over the last few months. Good luck
OK. This is what happens when you rely on Hammerite products in order to "save" money... it took me a few years to discover this using the exact above products and has proved an accurate benchmark over 26 years working on the same vehicle (my own VW Scirocco). 1. Kurust makes an effort but is not sufficiently acid-concentrated to dissolve enough (i.e. ALL) of the rust on the job, only allowing the rust to resurrect a few years down the road. It's like watching a slower version of the T100 trying to kill the T1000 in Terminator 2. It just keeps coming back... Penetration of the corroded area is key otherwise there's little to no point in doing it. The average home rust DIYer has little idea how thorough this stage needs to be. 2. The content of corrosion-inhibiting properties of Hammerite products is at such low levels - possibly due to a combination of cost saving and meeting lower levels of manufacturing Health and Safety - that it cannot ever kill the rust off completely, at cell level, underneath once applied. 3. Over time - about 5 years in my case - the waxy oyly content of Hammerite top coat products seals in enough moisture (from the recurring ferric-oxidation process you never killed off in the first place) to increase the speed of the now newly forming rust underneath, but this time you can't even see it because you've painted it all with black wax! This is worse than before you started. I.E. That money you "saved" is now costing you dearly. btw, I also now own a T4, too... 4. Depending on the severity of corrosion, the ONLY way to kill rust off is to either cut out the affected metal or erode it away instantly using very high concentrated (70%+) sulphuric acid. NOT formic, phosphoric or any other! I've tried them. Using the correct acid means NO need to worry about how much rust you initially removed with the wire brush before you started! It simply eradicates all signs of it completely! 5. Once THAT now shiny steel surface turns a purplish-black colour, LEAVE THE ACID ON. DO NOT WIPE CLEAN OR NEUTRALISE IT - you need to keep that on working away before the next stage... you have to be brutally thorough. 6. SHORTLY after the last process, you need to be getting on with the corrosion-inhibiting waxing process. This neutralises and seals in the acid process and simultaneously sufficiently inhibits rust. The only stuff on the planet that does this effectively is Ardrox AV30 Penetrating Water Displacing Corrosion Inhibiting Compound. It is made at the Dinitrol factory in Frankfurt. It is industry-standard, not intended for domestic use. Put a couple of coats on! 7. When dry, paint or spray on two coats of Dinitrol 4941 Black. With enough of the above products applied ensuring the sealing out of moisture, you will kill your rust forever.
![🔴 [TRỰC TIẾP] U20 Thái Lan VS LPBank Ninh Bình | Cúp VTV9 - Bình Điền 2024 | JET STUDIO](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3wRNdAy3DXs/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for this video. I am doing this now with my T4 Syncro. Perfect time!
Hey Joel. I am also a big fan of the T4 and got 3 of them. On my newest syncro i had exactely the same issue and did it almost as you. Except the wheel arch - which i had welded with a new pice of metal. Greetings from Germany. - Have fun with your T4 !!!
Thanks Joel. I just opened my panels and found a live ant colony!
Yikes!
Looking good Joel, I didn't know about the drainage kits good idea. I'll have to get a set now.
wheres the drainage kits?
Thanks for the tutorial, definitely have to do this on my T4. 🤙
Great video , Im just about to do this with my 2002 t4 . good to see what is behind the wings .
Hello Joel, and seasonal greetings. Just discovered your video. I have this task to look forward to soon. Firstly I must tackle renewing the left side outrigger member to pass the retest (controle technique of France) in two months time. I think that I will wait until some warmer, drier weather before the leaf/acorn/rust treatment work though. Thank you for your well-explained video. Bob from Brittany.
Thanks bob. I also repaired the outriggers - pretty easy job. Good luck!
~Great stuff Im ditching my T5 and going back to my 1998 bullet proof T4 and cant wait to get her sorted .
So looking good. Its i fine idea. I must see my in my T4. THX fór inspiration
Great Job!! 👍
Greetings from Germany.
Excellent job, seen worse welding from garages, well done, regards, David.
Thank you David :)
Another cracking video mate. Inspiring us all to delv into our t4s!
You all probably dont care but does anyone know a method to get back into an Instagram account??
I somehow forgot my account password. I would love any help you can give me
@Amir Michael Instablaster :)
@Hugh Marc Thanks for your reply. I got to the site on google and Im trying it out atm.
I see it takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Hugh Marc It did the trick and I now got access to my account again. Im so happy!
Thanks so much, you saved my account :D
@Amir Michael No problem :D
Hi, I have T5, but THX for this videa.Greeting from Czech republic.
could you add drainage holes at the bottom of the panel somewhere, to leak out some detritus, or would that fail an MOT ?
Been there, done this :) In germany we call this part "the composter" and my bus got a LOT of compost in there, due the previous owner parked in a tree-lined road :)) But unfortunately the fenders where point welded on. So I cleared it with a hard water beam gushing in there for half an hour through every slit I found.
That’ll work!
Thanks for the tip, I haven’t got the skills or the balls to take the wing off so wondered if there was an alternative way to get the crud out!😂👌
While im here and with the greatest respect. Please, please wear a mask when working on your beloved T4..
I’ve been watching your vids for a few years and picked up some useful diy skills thanks. I see you’ve now added welding to your portfolio! Your a braver man than me!!
I need to tackle my wheel arches and sills soon as there are signs of rust. I never understand the design of them as it seems a design flaw to have a lip that collects crud and water. Rather than repair it with filler why not just trim off the lip so it’s flush with the bodywork?
Thank you. It is a poor design in my opinion. I find the body filler is just a quick and easy fix for something that is jut cosmetic. I don’t even have the time to look any further into it 😂
Hi. I am the owner of a VW T4 Multivan and I would like to do this outflow in the pit like you. You can write where you bought and what are the names of these nuts for the holes in the shaft and the hose connection?
Great video mate what setting did you find works on your welder without burning through I've got the same one
Thanks. It all depends on what metal you are working with. My general rule of thumb with this welder is to use power setting 4 for thicker parts, and 3 for thinner metal if 4 burns through it. I use 2 if I want to fill in gaps or rust holes with wire. I am not a welder, but it seems to work ok for me. Good luck!
How to remove welded wing on short nose? Slow down please
Hey very well done for this job! May I ask you where did you buy from the drainage pipes kit? If possible would you live a link? Thanks
From ebay but I don’t remember who the seller was
👍
Cracking repair hope you have turned down your wire speed and your welds will be peach . I was luck on my t4 as no rust or leafs no idea how as mine is a 91 t4
👍👍👍😜🏴🦄🦕😁✌️🤞
Good job. Have you got a link to the drainage kit?
It looks like they are not listed on ebay at the moment 🙁
What bolts did you use for them plastic clips for the black bumper bracket?
Just some loose ones I had in a random mixed box
Will the hose get blocked up with leaves? That's what I'm wondering
So far no, but I still get them behind the fender
Hi mate where did you purchase the drainage kit from please 👍🏴👍
Hey! It came from a seller on eBay called cibulator. He is still selling these for about £26 if you search. Highly recommended!
@@JoelsStuff great thank you just starting a syncro project and think this will be first job 👍🏴👍
Hi great video, just about to start my T4 project,
Could someone please link this drain kit please, I can't find them on ebay, and no seller called Cibulator
Thanks 😎🤙
Do you need to disconnect the batteries before you start the work ?
It’s never a bad idea, especially when welding, but I am too lazy 😊
Good job. Which year is your T4? Thx.
Thanks! This is a 97 rotbox 🤓
Hello Sir, I love your channel. Do you have a link for those pipes by any chance please? Was thinking of doing this job with some old washing machine pipe, but if the price is right, could go for those ones. Cheers
Hi Ben, the listing I purchased has expired, but you can find the same product on eBay for about £26 if you search for "Volkswagen Transporter T4 fender water outlet". Good Luck!
@@JoelsStuff That's great. I'll take a look. Thanks for the reply.
If its anything like mine, you will be thinking ut needs doing again in about three months. These vans were designed to rust.
I still don't understand the design.. if you didn't have the drainage kit and you just took the panel off to clear out the leaves and muck and left it at that, where would the water drain after entering the scuttle hole by the windscreen? I saw some water ingress on mine from the bonnet latch screw holes (tho I'd removed the latch so maybe normally the screws plugged the hole).. Just wondering if removing the fendor and clearing the crap will help the water drainage?
Hi. To be honest I don’t really understand the original design myself - it seems flawed. I would recommend that anyone with a t4 remove the fender and clear out the leaves. The drainage tubes are optional but to be honest, since fitting these I have still gained a buildup of leaves and debris again. Best of luck!
To co mogli spieprzyć to właśnie ten odpływ.
is there a drain kit?
Yes, it’s in the second half of the video 🤗
And it's so easy! Inner fenders, fluid film and steam jet! Greetings T4 ACU 330 000 Bj 1995;) unwelded!
Und dabei ist es so einfach ! Innenkotflügel, Fluid Film und Dampfstrahler ! Gruß T4 ACU 330000 Bj 1995 ;) ungeschweißt !
how long do your gas bottles last for on your welder?
Hi. These small ones don’t seem to last too long. It’s hard to say, but I’ve got through about 6 bottles with all of the welding I have done on my van over the last few months. Good luck
More camping and cooking videos
I’ll try!
OK. This is what happens when you rely on Hammerite products in order to "save" money... it took me a few years to discover this using the exact above products and has proved an accurate benchmark over 26 years working on the same vehicle (my own VW Scirocco).
1. Kurust makes an effort but is not sufficiently acid-concentrated to dissolve enough (i.e. ALL) of the rust on the job, only allowing the rust to resurrect a few years down the road. It's like watching a slower version of the T100 trying to kill the T1000 in Terminator 2. It just keeps coming back... Penetration of the corroded area is key otherwise there's little to no point in doing it. The average home rust DIYer has little idea how thorough this stage needs to be.
2. The content of corrosion-inhibiting properties of Hammerite products is at such low levels - possibly due to a combination of cost saving and meeting lower levels of manufacturing Health and Safety - that it cannot ever kill the rust off completely, at cell level, underneath once applied.
3. Over time - about 5 years in my case - the waxy oyly content of Hammerite top coat products seals in enough moisture (from the recurring ferric-oxidation process you never killed off in the first place) to increase the speed of the now newly forming rust underneath, but this time you can't even see it because you've painted it all with black wax! This is worse than before you started. I.E. That money you "saved" is now costing you dearly.
btw, I also now own a T4, too...
4. Depending on the severity of corrosion, the ONLY way to kill rust off is to either cut out the affected metal or erode it away instantly using very high concentrated (70%+) sulphuric acid. NOT formic, phosphoric or any other! I've tried them. Using the correct acid means NO need to worry about how much rust you initially removed with the wire brush before you started! It simply eradicates all signs of it completely!
5. Once THAT now shiny steel surface turns a purplish-black colour, LEAVE THE ACID ON. DO NOT WIPE CLEAN OR NEUTRALISE IT - you need to keep that on working away before the next stage... you have to be brutally thorough.
6. SHORTLY after the last process, you need to be getting on with the corrosion-inhibiting waxing process. This neutralises and seals in the acid process and simultaneously sufficiently inhibits rust. The only stuff on the planet that does this effectively is Ardrox AV30 Penetrating Water Displacing Corrosion Inhibiting Compound. It is made at the Dinitrol factory in Frankfurt. It is industry-standard, not intended for domestic use. Put a couple of coats on!
7. When dry, paint or spray on two coats of Dinitrol 4941 Black.
With enough of the above products applied ensuring the sealing out of moisture, you will kill your rust forever.
Thank you for the in-depth feedback. It sounds like you have perfected your craft!