Argon purge is better on a part used for food. However the purge could have been set up better. It clearly sucked oxygen. Aluminum foil taped on the open side may have been better. Or instead welding from the inside instead with an aluminum foil box taped on the bottom of the unit so the food contact area was the side with the clean weld.
Stainless. Yay. Stainless was the first thing they taught as at TIG class, the idea being that it's about the hardest to weld (among the more common metals) and if you can master the electrode to work distance, amperage control, speed, etc., then learning to weld aluminum or mild steel is much easier. How far did your trophy get before he dropped? I'm not a hunter, although I have been hunting a couple of times. I am far to ADHD to sit still and be quiet for that long. 😂
@@MyLilMule Stainless is always a good challenge. Projects like this keep you on your toes. Usually If you hit them in the right spot, they won’t go 50 yards. This one I hit a little far back, and he went about 200 yards. I am also pretty ADHD. I feel like hunting compliments it well for me.
Dang, stainless can be very temperamental. One of the little tricks that I was taught for thinner material, was keep it cool enough that you can put your bare hand on it ,then you really minimize the warp. Used to do quite a bit of repair work on some .040 thick 304 tanks, we had an old tank that they gave us ,that we cut Repair sections out of, we use some of it as some test pieces. One of the tricks we used to use was a toilet plunger cup on the backside with an argon hose into it, it worked pretty good looked kind of funky. Another thing we had for anti-sugaring was we had a bread pan that we welded a fitting into? But the most important thing when doing thin stainless is patience. If you have to get yourself a fan and cool the whole unit off in between Welds
@@joefalmo5528 Good suggestions. I guess I could build some sort of fitting to minimize the area I need to purge. Thanks for the info and thanks for watching!
I caught something unusual, at 9:56 when you struck the arc the die grinder LED lights came on, then right off at 10:06 when you lifted off the pedal. Then again at 10:28 on and then off at the 10:38. Looks like the frequency of the welder is causing the LED to turn on. Kind of neat that happened and something to keep in mind if it will damage items near welding with HI Frequency.
@@salsalazar8414 Good catch! That is crazy! I’ve never noticed that, but you are correct, it is definitely the high frequency making it turn on. I’ll probably start putting those tools elsewhere while welding with high frequency. Nice observation, and Thanks for watching!
I do a lot of SS sheetmetal fabrication, industrial stuff. without sounding arrogant, my best tip is to (it might sound funny) actually turn your amps up for tacks, like. more than you need for welding the thickness, hit it quick with full pulse. it may sound counter intuitive but its less "heat soak" while still blasting it with enough to get good fusion. will result in muuch less distortion. try it out! 👍
I was subscribed, but got unsubscribed ... Dang youtube . But, I'm back . lol Good video . That thin ss is crazy to deal with distortion for sure . lol Good thinking though . :)
The biggest secret to welding stainless is to use chill blocks…a big block of aluminum clamped to the inside of that vessel would have solved your problems…..solar flux also works great, but won’t help with distortion!
@@wendell454 I apologize. I am going to try and post one tomorrow. The TH-cam thing is difficult. I can’t help but feel like people like myself that run an actual welding business don’t get the exposure from the algorithm like some of these other channels. Like equipment review channels for example. For 2 years I have posted videos every week religiously, and I don’t feel like the channel is growing like it should be. It’s hard to justify putting forth the time and effort to film, edit, and post videos when it isn’t really growing. I am very grateful for viewers like you that watch and enjoy the channel. I truly hope that my viewers get something valuable out of my videos. Thanks for watching, I really appreciate it.
Hello. Good video, just wondering if you could give me info in your yellow cranes. I am ready to build one in my shop. I have several I beams. Most are 1/2 to 3/4 thick. Also wondering how you made hinges. Thanks.
@@craigfuller6187 Hi there, the I beam is 12x26 beam. The top beam for the main jib is 20’ long, and then there is the vertical piece and 45 piece. I’ll have to see what the measurements are on those. The hinges are built out of 1” plate. The pins are 2” OD. I machined them out of 4140 steel with a grease channel and grease zerk. Hopefully that helps. For the record, I’m not saying that’s how you should build them, just saying that’s how I did it. Thanks for watching!
@Freedomfabrication777 thanks so much. I understand I came across a deal to get like 30 beams. Most are 1/2 thick some 3/4 and 1 inch. I appreciate you answering. Keep making videos. Very helpful.
I have stainless tank on an outdoor furnace coming up. I was going to weld the pin holes up with the spoolgun and use either stainless mig with 75/25 gas or a stainless flux core. What do you think Stewart?
@@michaelbigelow367 Sounds like a fun one. With thinner stainless steel, I will always try to use Tig if possible because it’s so much easier to control my heat. I’m assuming if it has pin holes, the material is rotting, so it will most likely be a delicate job. I have used stainless flux core wire as well as stainless solid wire on similar repairs, and in a pinch it can work fine. Just be careful with your heat. Tig would probably be my recommendation if it’s thinner material, plus with Tig, you know what you’re getting. You can be a lot more precise and you can watch the puddle fuse with the parent metal, while adjusting your amperage on the fly with either a foot pedal or a finger control. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching!
@Freedomfabrication777 I don't see where the super thanks button is on your channel? I believe you deserve to be paid for your professional time. You always answer indepth and I don't expect nothing for nothing. Thanks again.
Food grade work, by rights where you welded those tabs should be polished like the rest of that dish. Scratches no matter how shallow can still hold contamination. Pipe fab shop I worked in did alot of food grade ss work for a sausage processor and whenever we did food grade we sanded and went down grits till finally we had a buffing wheel to polish the product. It was a major hassle.
@@Just0sW0rld I usually have a minimum charge of 2 hours, but for small projects like this, I don’t feel like that works. I either charge 1/2 hour- 1 hour depending on how long it takes. Hope that answers your question. Thanks for watching!
I welded a stainless pineapple core machine. It stunk so bad I had to stop and evacuate my shop. Did not help that the old rancid pineapple juice was in the nooks and cranies of this thing.
![SAFEPLANET - ดาวเคราะห์ [ THE PLANET ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4X1XL3I_k3c/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video. Thanks for the lesson with stainless.
@@danramos281 Hope I helped you learn something productive. Thanks for watching!
Good stuff. Great hunting pics too!
@@JonesMetalCraft Thanks for watching!
Beautiful pics at the end! I'm a little jealous, that's a monster.
@@jimf.1644 Thanks. One of the reasons I love to hunt is because I get to enjoy the beauty of God’s creation. Thanks for watching!
You can use an aluminum bar as a backing plate will keep from sugaring and helps as a heat sink to keep the stainless from warping.
Job well done! And congrats on your harvest
@@MrJman26211 Thanks! And thank you for watching!
"If this works out, I'm hopin' to get a little cotton candy out of the deal." Good one!
@@nightheron714 You can’t blame a guy for having a sweet tooth can you? Thanks for watching!
Awesome buck congrats
@@broncobill1204 Thanks, i appreciate that. Thanks for watching!
I have used flux paste on the back side instead of purging. Maybe a copper back plate set on a stack of aluminum scrap
@@jaysmith4293 Never tried flux paste. Great suggestion. Probably worth a try. Thanks for watching!
was thinking the same thing
Solar flux…..works great
Argon purge is better on a part used for food. However the purge could have been set up better. It clearly sucked oxygen. Aluminum foil taped on the open side may have been better. Or instead welding from the inside instead with an aluminum foil box taped on the bottom of the unit so the food contact area was the side with the clean weld.
Stainless. Yay. Stainless was the first thing they taught as at TIG class, the idea being that it's about the hardest to weld (among the more common metals) and if you can master the electrode to work distance, amperage control, speed, etc., then learning to weld aluminum or mild steel is much easier.
How far did your trophy get before he dropped? I'm not a hunter, although I have been hunting a couple of times. I am far to ADHD to sit still and be quiet for that long. 😂
@@MyLilMule Stainless is always a good challenge. Projects like this keep you on your toes. Usually If you hit them in the right spot, they won’t go 50 yards. This one I hit a little far back, and he went about 200 yards. I am also pretty ADHD. I feel like hunting compliments it well for me.
Dang, stainless can be very temperamental. One of the little tricks that I was taught for thinner material, was keep it cool enough that you can put your bare hand on it ,then you really minimize the warp. Used to do quite a bit of repair work on some .040 thick 304 tanks, we had an old tank that they gave us ,that we cut Repair sections out of, we use some of it as some test pieces. One of the tricks we used to use was a toilet plunger cup on the backside with an argon hose into it, it worked pretty good looked kind of funky. Another thing we had for anti-sugaring was we had a bread pan that we welded a fitting into? But the most important thing when doing thin stainless is patience. If you have to get yourself a fan and cool the whole unit off in between Welds
@@joefalmo5528 Good suggestions. I guess I could build some sort of fitting to minimize the area I need to purge. Thanks for the info and thanks for watching!
I caught something unusual, at 9:56 when you struck the arc the die grinder LED lights came on, then right off at 10:06 when you lifted off the pedal. Then again at 10:28 on and then off at the 10:38. Looks like the frequency of the welder is causing the LED to turn on. Kind of neat that happened and something to keep in mind if it will damage items near welding with HI Frequency.
@@salsalazar8414 Good catch! That is crazy! I’ve never noticed that, but you are correct, it is definitely the high frequency making it turn on. I’ll probably start putting those tools elsewhere while welding with high frequency. Nice observation, and Thanks for watching!
Mine does every time I struck on arc I was wondering if it had something to do with the HF start of the machine I have the same die grinder
Nice work, and nice deer. How far was the shot?
@@tallyman15 Thanks! 45 yard shot. Thanks for watching!
I do a lot of SS sheetmetal fabrication, industrial stuff. without sounding arrogant, my best tip is to (it might sound funny) actually turn your amps up for tacks, like. more than you need for welding the thickness, hit it quick with full pulse. it may sound counter intuitive but its less "heat soak" while still blasting it with enough to get good fusion. will result in muuch less distortion. try it out! 👍
@@chaineffect6437Great suggestion, I’ll give it a try. Thanks for watching!
I was subscribed, but got unsubscribed ... Dang youtube . But, I'm back . lol
Good video . That thin ss is crazy to deal with distortion for sure . lol Good thinking though . :)
@@johnjay5143 I don’t understand why it does that. Thanks for subscribing!…..again!
The biggest secret to welding stainless is to use chill blocks…a big block of aluminum clamped to the inside of that vessel would have solved your problems…..solar flux also works great, but won’t help with distortion!
Sola flux would have saved you a heap of gas..i have used it on all thickness stainless and it works just fine
@@dominicalbrecht7039 Someone else mentioned using flux. I’ve never used it. Guess I’ll have to look into it. Thanks for watching!
I'm sure missing your new videos
@@wendell454 I apologize. I am going to try and post one tomorrow. The TH-cam thing is difficult. I can’t help but feel like people like myself that run an actual welding business don’t get the exposure from the algorithm like some of these other channels. Like equipment review channels for example. For 2 years I have posted videos every week religiously, and I don’t feel like the channel is growing like it should be. It’s hard to justify putting forth the time and effort to film, edit, and post videos when it isn’t really growing. I am very grateful for viewers like you that watch and enjoy the channel. I truly hope that my viewers get something valuable out of my videos. Thanks for watching, I really appreciate it.
Hello. Good video, just wondering if you could give me info in your yellow cranes. I am ready to build one in my shop. I have several I beams. Most are 1/2 to 3/4 thick. Also wondering how you made hinges. Thanks.
@@craigfuller6187 Hi there, the I beam is 12x26 beam. The top beam for the main jib is 20’ long, and then there is the vertical piece and 45 piece. I’ll have to see what the measurements are on those. The hinges are built out of 1” plate. The pins are 2” OD. I machined them out of 4140 steel with a grease channel and grease zerk. Hopefully that helps. For the record, I’m not saying that’s how
you should build them, just saying that’s how I did it. Thanks for watching!
@Freedomfabrication777 thanks so much. I understand I came across a deal to get like 30 beams. Most are 1/2 thick some 3/4 and 1 inch. I appreciate you answering. Keep making videos. Very helpful.
Needs a diffuser or a rag at the end of the argon hose….
👍
Great video. Does the purge run the whole time you're welding?
@@ELECTRICEYE1776 yes it does. As long as you’re welding on the material you’re purging.(on thin material) you need the purge. Thanks for watching!
@@Freedomfabrication777 - Thanks for the info, much appreciated.
I have stainless tank on an outdoor furnace coming up. I was going to weld the pin holes up with the spoolgun and use either stainless mig with 75/25 gas or a stainless flux core. What do you think Stewart?
@@michaelbigelow367 Sounds like a fun one. With thinner stainless steel, I will always try to use Tig if possible because it’s so much easier to control my heat. I’m assuming if it has pin holes, the material is rotting, so it will most likely be a delicate job. I have used stainless flux core wire as well as stainless solid wire on similar repairs, and in a pinch it can work fine. Just be careful with your heat. Tig would probably be my recommendation if it’s thinner material, plus with Tig, you know what you’re getting. You can be a lot more precise and you can watch the puddle fuse with the parent metal, while adjusting your amperage on the fly with either a foot pedal or a finger control. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching!
@Freedomfabrication777 ok thank you Stewart. I really appreciate your professional advice.
@@michaelbigelow367 Not a problem. Hope I don’t steer you wrong!
@Freedomfabrication777 I don't see where the super thanks button is on your channel? I believe you deserve to be paid for your professional time. You always answer indepth and I don't expect nothing for nothing. Thanks again.
@@michaelbigelow367 I’m glad to help if I can! I appreciate you watching!
I think I would have silver soldered the part on.
@@ke6bnl That may have worked just fine. You’re still having to put heat into that material to get it done though. Thanks for watching!
How much cfh should you use for a purge?
8-12
@@MrRNTV for me it depends on the size and shape of the part, but It could be anywhere from 5-10 cfh.
Would pulsing help with heat control??
@@woodintheblood4104 Yes, it probably would. Probably a good thing to try. Thanks for the suggestion and thanks for watching!
Food grade work, by rights where you welded those tabs should be polished like the rest of that dish. Scratches no matter how shallow can still hold contamination. Pipe fab shop I worked in did alot of food grade ss work for a sausage processor and whenever we did food grade we sanded and went down grits till finally we had a buffing wheel to polish the product. It was a major hassle.
Bon Boulo 😆😆👍👍
How much do you charge for a job like that?
@@Just0sW0rld I usually have a minimum charge of 2 hours, but for small projects like this, I don’t feel like that works. I either charge 1/2 hour- 1 hour depending on how long it takes. Hope that answers your question. Thanks for watching!
I welded a stainless pineapple core machine. It stunk so bad I had to stop and evacuate my shop. Did not help that the old rancid pineapple juice was in the nooks and cranies of this thing.
@@tjs_welding_and_fabricationThat one would be rough. Burned sugar was not bad. Thanks for watching!
I love pineapple and cotton candy @@Freedomfabrication777