I did loosen neither the tie rod end nor the control arm - no reason for those steps!. I used a spring compressor to drive the shock absorber tube away in order to get access to those four bolts in the back. Important!- turn the steering wheel to maximum right to further relieve the tension! The removal of the control arm also makes tightening more uncomfortable because the steady support vanishes. But surely Mike knows what is best for him! 😉
Excellent stuff. I followed your recommendations and changed out my hubs using a spring compressor. I think I could do it under an hour next time round. The only thing I added was a quick clamp reversed into spreading mode to push the steering knuckle down to get better access to the last hub assembly bolt.
There are a few videos on here trying to show you how to do this job, this one is the only one worth watching. Its no nonsense, in my opinion the right way to do the job! thank you!
Man I did my control and support arms and new rotors then realized I need a new wheel hub 🙄. Shit!! I might as well change my shocks Car has 240k miles
Just a small warning to anyone tackling this job. My control arm bolt snapped in half. These tend to rust to the bushing.
I did loosen neither the tie rod end nor the control arm - no reason for those steps!. I used a spring compressor to drive the shock absorber tube away in order to get access to those four bolts in the back. Important!- turn the steering wheel to maximum right to further relieve the tension!
The removal of the control arm also makes tightening more uncomfortable because the steady support vanishes.
But surely Mike knows what is best for him! 😉
Excellent stuff. I followed your recommendations and changed out my hubs using a spring compressor. I think I could do it under an hour next time round. The only thing I added was a quick clamp reversed into spreading mode to push the steering knuckle down to get better access to the last hub assembly bolt.
There are a few videos on here trying to show you how to do this job, this one is the only one worth watching. Its no nonsense, in my opinion the right way to do the job! thank you!
Thank you!
Sadly my pinch bolt was frozen stuck couldnt get it out so had to turn it in. Otherwise i always follow ur vids good as always
@@isitgoodtodo2834Thank you!
Thanks Mike for the correct torque specs!
Man I did my control and support arms and new rotors then realized I need a new wheel hub 🙄. Shit!! I might as well change my shocks
Car has 240k miles
Was that wheel movement only with the car down?
Yes, but in the end it turned out that it was a shock absorber
Hey ur in bc! Hello from surrey! 😅
Hi, I'm working in Surrey 🙂
Fantastic video, you've included every detail and we thank you for that.
One question: Any differences to that if the car has dynamic drive?
Thank you for watching! Should be the same for cars with dynamic drive.
Thank you thats very informative. I am wondering how much different it is with xdrive? Anyone can share insight?
Thank you for watching! For AWD car is completely different job and torque specs are different!
GREAT VIDEO ,MY 535IX HAS 113 000KM OR 65 000MILES ;SHOULD I CHANGE MY BEARING SOON?
Thank you! I think this is to early for your car. Is wheel bearing has noise?
is it recommended to change both of them, or its okay if you only change the one that makes noises? thanks
It's ok to replace only one.
Sir Mike, how long did it take "you" ?
Thank you for the video.... Helping me help Mom with her latest car investment....whew !
Thank you for watching. I think around 2-3 hours
Don't know why I laughed when you wrote investment. I'm pretty invested at this point 😏
Hi
Do you have to lift the whole front end or is it enough to lift one side of the car?
Hi, one side is enough. But you can have a trouble to install sway bar link bracket back in place.
That’s a pretty insane amount of torque on that control arm bolt on the subframe… there’s other videos/ guides that say 80nm 🤔
I working in repair shop and followed the repair manual. You can buy repair manual and follow it. 😉
@@mikes.garage maybe I should go and tighten mine lmao
👍
Дякую Михайло, чуть было не отдал механику, но после вашего видео сделаю сам.
Пожалуйста, рад что смог помочь. 😊
Thank you sir! You helped me a lot!
Thank you for watching!
thanks!
Do I need a wheel alignment after unfastening the tie rod like you did in the video?
This is not necessarily after this job. But wheel alignment recommend to do every year anyway.
@@mikes.garage thank you for your quick reply
Omg this isn't an easy job at all
Not at all 🙂
Great video! 👍🏻 Thank you for sharing!
Thank you for watching!
Anna why the hell are u watching this lol
Great video mate, made my day easier 👍🏻
Thank you!
The tie rod end bolt is 80nm not 160nm FFS! Destroyed mine. Thanks a lot.
For rear wheel drive car 160 Nm, for all wheel drive 80 Nm. This manual for RWD e60.
www.drive2.ru/l/637032024317629772/