Love your videos. I subbed you about a month ago after I purchased a 2005 Tundra with 68,500 miles on it. I’ve already replaced all of the interior lights with LED, thanks to your videos. Looking forward to your future videos.
After watching this awesome vid I was ready to hate my life for a few days. Turns out I just needed to replace my cheap ass right outer tierod end. Thank you Jesus!
I live in a dry climate city and so glad even when it’s the hottest place ever cause no rust what so ever 40 year car with zero rust , metallic things live for ever and no hard time when untightening bolts and nuts everything is so smooth even with threadlock
It’s funny, I bought a 2000 tundra access cab 4x4 last month ( same color as yours )and just realized my front right bearing is bad then I saw your video the next day ( I’ve been watching all your videos) after watching the video I am definitely going to a mechanic lol ( price ranges go for $350-$550 for a mechanic, that’s new hub and bearing)keep up the videos!
lol yeah probably worth the money to just bring it to a mechanic and know that it's going to be done right and save yourself the hassle. Hope you're enjoying the truck otherwise, and thanks for watching! - Sal
Just be aware, that’s likely for a non OE hub and bearing. The bearing comes prepressed in the hub. From what I hear non OE don’t last near as long as OE for wheel bearings
Sal, take a look at your lower Strut Bushings. These front Strut Bushings are available from Toyota. Just a Ball Joint service press will easily push them out & back in place. (A thick square of rubber placed underneath Strut Eye, on the A-Arm will stop the new bushings from beating downward again.). Yours are smashed down!
It'll definitely save you some money! You'll just pay in sweat and tears 😂. Nah, if you learn from my mistakes it shouldn't be a terrible job. Best of luck, and thanks for watching!
Just found your channel and working my way through your Toyota videos, which are very good! I just wanted to let you know if you ever do a lower ball joint video, it is a good idea to get knuckles from any Sequoia or Tundra made after 09/2003 as they have a larger more robust design.
Good video dude. Looks like those lower strut bushings are shot too, I see another video coming up lol. Those Milwaukee impacts are definitely worth the price, I’ve used mine in all my projects, they work so well!
Hahaha yeah those bushings are old and trash. I'm considering upgrading to Bilsteins, but not sure yet. But yeah I'm very slowly trying to grow my Milwaukee collection! Thanks for watching - Sal
DIY ing is great “if” you have the proper tools… and LOTS of Time! Thankyou for filming your experience, Sir. As for me…I have a bad upper Ball Joint “and” a wearing out bearing…because I only have 1 day off…it’s AT the shop… Yeah… I’m going to “pay” for it, but sometimes TIME is Critical… Thankyou again…and…After watching Your Video…I “may” decide (next time as well) …to take it in!???
You are totally correct that DIYs are great for people with time and tools. Even with time and tools, it still was a rough one haha This is one project I would probably recommend bringing to a shop. Thanks for watching, and I hope it all gets fixed quickly and properly! - Sal
Nice work , always used power tools with success..it’s like using a press which uses lots of pressure to install the bearing. But if your comfortable just doing it with hand tools keep doing it. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Yeah I really only wanted to use hand tools because it was my first time and I wasn't sure what everything was 'supposed' to feel like. But glad to hear power tools can help make the job a ton easier. Thanks for watching
Lol being able to rent tools is huge, but it's usually just from our chain auto parts stores. I didn't know about their rental programs until I was doing some research before taking on this project. Thanks for watching - Sal
Don't worry about the bearing tightness, that is pretty normal! I haven't had to replace my Tundra's front bearing yet, but I've had to replace bearings on my car (also a Toyota), and it's been the same. Just the new grease keeping things tight. Great video as always, keep up the good work 🙂
Good tip! Unfortunately I don't have any access to a welder (or experience lol) and I felt more comfortable just buying the new hub. Thanks for watching
you need an angle grinder to cut the hardened steel of the inner bearing race, a little dremel cutoff wheel isn't gonna do it. Great video tho, love the honesty and headaches. I'm hoping with a shop press I can do this in 3 hours or so tonight.
Gotcha, yeah I definitely wasn't making any headway with it. I was afraid to cut too deep with my angle grinder so that's why I opted to try the dremel instead. I'd definitely still just recommend a whole new hub though. Thanks for watching!
Hey Sal. Been loving the videos ever since I got my 2001 Tundra. They have been a huge help! One question though, where were you able to buy that Bearing snap ring day of? I am having a hard time finding it local at all.
Dang that's too bad, I guess I got lucky that my local Toyota dealer in Chesapeake, VA had them on the shelf. I'd try to find them on an online dealer maybe? Thanks for watching the videos!
Yeah it's pretty involved, but I'd say that I made the job a bit more of a pain by not having the new snap ring and hub when I started. If I had all the right parts it probably would have gone a lot quicker. Still a couple hour job at least. Hope it works out, thanks for watching - Sal
Sweet, as long as you've got all the parts ahead of time (and preferably a car to run to the store if you don't) it shouldn't be as big of a project as I made it myself 😂 best of luck - Sal
grab the top and bottom of tire while its up off the ground then push and pull tire (hands at 12:00 and 6:00) feel for any slop or play. Thats how to identify which wheel bearing is bad more specifically.
Hi everyone! Have a dilemma here! I changed both front wheels hub and bearings, installed new tires, new ball joints, new inner and outer tie rods on both sides, realigned tires and the noise still there (humming noise) it can only be heard while driving inside the cabin, I put the GoPro and doesn’t pick up the noise at all! Any one knows something else that could be causing this noise? Is driving me crazy! Please help! Thanks
Dang that's super frustrating. It's hard to say without hearing it firsthand, but something that a lot of people have mentioned to me is the seal that goes around the steering column at the firewall can wear out and leak some sound in from the engine bay. Hopefully someone else in here can give you some more things to look for too! Thanks for watching, and best of luck with the fix
Hi, so I decided to work on the rear wheel bearings and I think I found the problem! I haven’t use the Sequoia since last time I made my first post in your video. I will like to send you the videos so you can hear what I’m talking about? Or how can I share it here?
At the beginning I thought I was going to be re-using the hub, so I didn't want to scuff up the inner surface. It was easy enough to add that ring to keep it centered. Thanks for watching!
My dad has the same color truck as yours with 151k miles. I am not hearing any notices, but I was thinking of replacing the bearings. I noticed you have both legs under the car (@ 5:00), and what happens if the jack fails? Seeing your video, I will take the knuckle to a shop and let them sweat. Great video
Hey there, good question about the jack failing. I have the jack stand right next to the hydraulic jack with all of the weight on the stand, the jack is just there as a backup. I also have the tire under the frame rail to catch the weight a bit too, but I think that works better on a car than the truck. I could probably be better about my safety in a lot of situations, and I'm working on being better about it. Thanks for watching! - Sal
Any reason yu didn't replace the passenger side bearing?? IIRC, most Tundra front wheel bnearings turn about the same number of revolutions each 100,000 miles or so. Maybe you checked it and didn't shoot video of the passenger side wheel in the air. My 2000 doesn't have ABS so I should be able to replace my wheel bearing wither by buying a new hub with the bearing already in there or a friend of mine has a press and he can exchange "press time" for beer.....lol. I also noted no jack stands under the frame, but maybe I missed that step of the repair. All in all, very informative. Peace Out!!
My thought was that it seems to be in great shape and I actually bought all the parts and have them ready if it starts making noise on me again. I did have a jack stand under there, definitely don't want to support the whole truck with only a hydraulic jack. Thanks for watching
You could, but the instructions on the puller said not to in order to prevent damaging it. Because I was borrowing it from OReillys I didn't want to screw it up too bad lol and I opted to do it by hand. Thanks for watching!
Yeah, I was pretty careful about pressing just the bearing, but I think the hub was just so stuck in the bearing it pulled everything with it, including the snap ring. It sounds pretty normal for that to happen though. Thanks for watching - Sal
I didn't find one in my research, if I did I would have opted to do that lol. There may be an aftermarket option already pressed in, but most people will say that with wheel bearings it is smart to stick with OEM. Thanks for watching - Sal
Yeah, you definitely need to remove the snap ring before pressing out the bearing. However, you cant remove the snap ring until the hub is pressed out. In my case, I tried pressing out the hub and half of the hearing came with it. Thanks for watching! - Sal
Hello Sal. I understand you live in New port richey FL? Me too. I also have a 02 tundra with the same wheel noise. After watching the video want to hire you to do the job. Are you willing to help me Sal? Please let me know.
Hey Carl, I'm not sure where you heard that but I live up in Virginia Beach, VA. I also only work on my own cars, but I appreciate you reaching out. Best of luck with the repair - Sal
Yeah I don't trust jacks either, it may be a little hard to see but I've got the jack stand under there supporting the weight of the truck. The jack is just a fail safe. Thanks for watching!
The prices I saw for the whole knuckle seemed a bit higher than I was willing to spend. However, I would definitely recommend buying a brand new hub so you don't have to try and remove the leftover bearing half. - Sal
I definitely try to be as safe as I can when working under cars/trucks and I agree that you should always use a jack stand. I've got the The tire is only there as a last resort (and for convenient storage in my 1 car garage lol) I appreciate you reaching out though, and thanks for watching!
haha it is definitely an involved process, I can't imagine doing it without tools specifically designed for it. Thanks for the insight about the new bearing, it's still working well a few days later so I'm optimistic. Thanks for watching! - Sal
Not sure what you're referring to. I've got hub centric rings for these wheels, but no spacers. I agree that wheel spacers can do more harm than good and I don't plan to run them on any of my vehicles. Thanks for watching!
I've gotten a couple of comments about this. It's hidden a little, but I do have the jack stand under the truck holding most of the load, and the lift jack is just there as a backup. Safety under a car is definitely important. Thanks for watching!
I don't think so because the snap ring sits behind the hub, so you have no access to it. The snap ring bent when I was pressing out the hub, then I removed it and pressed out the bearing itself. So I think it's just something you have to deal with unfortunately.
Nice work! Thank you for showing the mistakes. That's a real-world application.
Yeah for sure, wanted to give a true DIY review here. Thanks for watching
This is a great video. this video was helpful in humbling my dyi mechanic confidence. This job will go to the shop 😂
you know what they say, you're not doing it right if you dont have to run to the parts store multiple time on a project. you did good man
Haha exactly! Thanks for watching
Very honest feed back.
Love it.
Awesome.
Definitely doable but it may take a few years off your life if you make my same mistakes!! Haha thanks for watching - Sal
Love your videos. I subbed you about a month ago after I purchased a 2005 Tundra with 68,500 miles on it. I’ve already replaced all of the interior lights with LED, thanks to your videos. Looking forward to your future videos.
Awesome, glad you're enjoying them. Thanks for watching!
After watching this awesome vid I was ready to hate my life for a few days. Turns out I just needed to replace my cheap ass right outer tierod end. Thank you Jesus!
Hahaha glad to hear it. Thanks for watching!
I live in a dry climate city and so glad even when it’s the hottest place ever cause no rust what so ever 40 year car with zero rust , metallic things live for ever and no hard time when untightening bolts and nuts everything is so smooth even with threadlock
Nice, yeah rust can definitely make a simple problem super annoyingly difficult lol. Thanks for watching!
It’s funny, I bought a 2000 tundra access cab 4x4 last month ( same color as yours )and just realized my front right bearing is bad then I saw your video the next day ( I’ve been watching all your videos) after watching the video I am definitely going to a mechanic lol ( price ranges go for $350-$550 for a mechanic, that’s new hub and bearing)keep up the videos!
lol yeah probably worth the money to just bring it to a mechanic and know that it's going to be done right and save yourself the hassle. Hope you're enjoying the truck otherwise, and thanks for watching! - Sal
Just be aware, that’s likely for a non OE hub and bearing. The bearing comes prepressed in the hub. From what I hear non OE don’t last near as long as OE for wheel bearings
Absolutely steller video an instructions! Keep it up!💪🛠
I appreciate it! And thanks for watching!
Sal, take a look at your lower Strut Bushings. These front Strut Bushings are available from Toyota. Just a Ball Joint service press will easily push them out & back in place. (A thick square of rubber placed underneath Strut Eye, on the A-Arm will stop the new bushings from beating downward again.). Yours are smashed down!
Yep, I was tracking that and have since installed all new struts. They made a huge difference. I appreciate the tips though, Thanks for watching!
Very smart using anti-seize
Didn't want to run into another annoying issue in the future! Thanks for watching
Always love your Tundra videos keep it going.
Thanks for watching! - Sal
@@JDMDriveway did you have to install snap ring to where the gap of it can pick up abs senor
I didn't really need to gap anything, if it is all pressed in tight the snap ring should seat properly and the abs ring should be aligned 👍🏼 - Sal
Thank you so much for making this, plan going this route to save some serious cash.
It'll definitely save you some money! You'll just pay in sweat and tears 😂. Nah, if you learn from my mistakes it shouldn't be a terrible job. Best of luck, and thanks for watching!
Just found your channel and working my way through your Toyota videos, which are very good! I just wanted to let you know if you ever do a lower ball joint video, it is a good idea to get knuckles from any Sequoia or Tundra made after 09/2003 as they have a larger more robust design.
Interesting, I'll have to check that out. Thanks for watching!
Bro thanks for the video you saved me today frfr which brand bearing did you get?
Good video dude. Looks like those lower strut bushings are shot too, I see another video coming up lol. Those Milwaukee impacts are definitely worth the price, I’ve used mine in all my projects, they work so well!
Hahaha yeah those bushings are old and trash. I'm considering upgrading to Bilsteins, but not sure yet. But yeah I'm very slowly trying to grow my Milwaukee collection! Thanks for watching - Sal
DIY ing is great “if” you have the proper tools… and LOTS of Time! Thankyou for filming your experience, Sir.
As for me…I have a bad upper Ball Joint “and” a wearing out bearing…because I only have 1 day off…it’s AT the shop… Yeah… I’m going to “pay” for it, but sometimes TIME is Critical…
Thankyou again…and…After watching Your Video…I “may” decide (next time as well) …to take it in!???
You are totally correct that DIYs are great for people with time and tools. Even with time and tools, it still was a rough one haha This is one project I would probably recommend bringing to a shop. Thanks for watching, and I hope it all gets fixed quickly and properly! - Sal
Nice work , always used power tools with success..it’s like using a press which uses lots of pressure to install the bearing. But if your comfortable just doing it with hand tools keep doing it. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Yeah I really only wanted to use hand tools because it was my first time and I wasn't sure what everything was 'supposed' to feel like. But glad to hear power tools can help make the job a ton easier. Thanks for watching
Most mechanics use a torch to heat up the bearing race. They expand and fall off.
I didn't have access to a torch but I could see how that would work well for sure!
you americans are so lucky with all these tool rental places!
Lol being able to rent tools is huge, but it's usually just from our chain auto parts stores. I didn't know about their rental programs until I was doing some research before taking on this project. Thanks for watching - Sal
Don't worry about the bearing tightness, that is pretty normal! I haven't had to replace my Tundra's front bearing yet, but I've had to replace bearings on my car (also a Toyota), and it's been the same. Just the new grease keeping things tight. Great video as always, keep up the good work 🙂
Thanks for the insight, and thank you for watching! - Sal
Excellent Presentation !
Thanks!
Great video , mine when it was going bad it sounds like a noise you would hear from electricity generating ..
Haha yeah that's not really a noise you want to hear coming from truck! Thanks for watching
Hi Sal- great videos… ironic that I clicked on this. My 2017 Honda Pilot needs front right bearing. No one can find the part anywhere!!!!
Thanks for checking out the videos! Sorry to hear about your car, hopefully it can get figured out soon! - Sal
The force of the press, pulling out the hub damaged the snap-ring.
Got it, makes perfect sense to me and I didn't think of it in the moment.
to remove bearing race, weld a bead on inside or outside it will then fall or tap off, welding makes it grow.
Good tip! Unfortunately I don't have any access to a welder (or experience lol) and I felt more comfortable just buying the new hub. Thanks for watching
you need an angle grinder to cut the hardened steel of the inner bearing race, a little dremel cutoff wheel isn't gonna do it. Great video tho, love the honesty and headaches. I'm hoping with a shop press I can do this in 3 hours or so tonight.
Gotcha, yeah I definitely wasn't making any headway with it. I was afraid to cut too deep with my angle grinder so that's why I opted to try the dremel instead. I'd definitely still just recommend a whole new hub though. Thanks for watching!
try welding a bead on bearing race, it will fall off.
Hey Sal. Been loving the videos ever since I got my 2001 Tundra. They have been a huge help! One question though, where were you able to buy that Bearing snap ring day of? I am having a hard time finding it local at all.
Dang that's too bad, I guess I got lucky that my local Toyota dealer in Chesapeake, VA had them on the shelf. I'd try to find them on an online dealer maybe? Thanks for watching the videos!
Almost at 1k subs Sal! Keep it up friend
We're getting there!! Thanks for the support! - Sal
My 2001 tundra is doing the same thing great video sir, it looks like a pain in the ass not sure I wanna mess with it lol
Yeah it's pretty involved, but I'd say that I made the job a bit more of a pain by not having the new snap ring and hub when I started. If I had all the right parts it probably would have gone a lot quicker. Still a couple hour job at least. Hope it works out, thanks for watching - Sal
@@JDMDriveway by the way your truck looks super clean what year mileage? Mine is 01 with 350k going strong
If you don't have an impact gun, you can loosen the axle nut while the wheel's still on. You'll still need a long breaker bar.
That's a great point, thanks for watching!
Nice vid definitely planning on that next
Sweet, as long as you've got all the parts ahead of time (and preferably a car to run to the store if you don't) it shouldn't be as big of a project as I made it myself 😂 best of luck - Sal
Great video thank you!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching- Sal
Great video!
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching - Sal
weld a bead on bearing race and it will fall off , a cutoff wheel works , A bearing splitter and a press
I wish I had access to weld on a bead or use a shop press. Buying a new hub made the most sense to me. Thanks for watching!
grab the top and bottom of tire while its up off the ground then push and pull tire (hands at 12:00 and 6:00) feel for any slop or play. Thats how to identify which wheel bearing is bad more specifically.
Yep, exactly. Thanks for watching!
That could be a bad inner tie rod too
Pro Tip: Buy an OE Toyota or Koyo Wheel Bearing. Don’t trust the cheap China Bearings. There’s OE Bearings available on eBay sites!
I totally agree, if I had more time to plan it out I definitely would have gone that route!
Hi everyone! Have a dilemma here! I changed both front wheels hub and bearings, installed new tires, new ball joints, new inner and outer tie rods on both sides, realigned tires and the noise still there (humming noise) it can only be heard while driving inside the cabin, I put the GoPro and doesn’t pick up the noise at all! Any one knows something else that could be causing this noise? Is driving me crazy! Please help!
Thanks
Dang that's super frustrating. It's hard to say without hearing it firsthand, but something that a lot of people have mentioned to me is the seal that goes around the steering column at the firewall can wear out and leak some sound in from the engine bay. Hopefully someone else in here can give you some more things to look for too! Thanks for watching, and best of luck with the fix
Hi, so I decided to work on the rear wheel bearings and I think I found the problem! I haven’t use the Sequoia since last time I made my first post in your video. I will like to send you the videos so you can hear what I’m talking about? Or how can I share it here?
Getting ready to do this job do you know is I would need to get an Alignment done when its complete?
You should need to as long as you don't adjust any of the suspension or steering components. My truck was good to go afterwards, thanks for watching
You replacing the wheel bering so why worry about damaging the threads?
At the beginning I thought I was going to be re-using the hub, so I didn't want to scuff up the inner surface. It was easy enough to add that ring to keep it centered. Thanks for watching!
My dad has the same color truck as yours with 151k miles. I am not hearing any notices, but I was thinking of replacing the bearings. I noticed you have both legs under the car (@ 5:00), and what happens if the jack fails? Seeing your video, I will take the knuckle to a shop and let them sweat. Great video
Hey there, good question about the jack failing. I have the jack stand right next to the hydraulic jack with all of the weight on the stand, the jack is just there as a backup. I also have the tire under the frame rail to catch the weight a bit too, but I think that works better on a car than the truck. I could probably be better about my safety in a lot of situations, and I'm working on being better about it. Thanks for watching! - Sal
An upside-down can of air duster will freeze parts back down to -50 next time you need shrinkage on demand
Cool, I appreciate the tip! Thanks for watching
Nice video, from your video your lower strut bushings look shot and need replacing.
Funny you should mention that, last week I put up a video of me replacing the struts! haha thanks for watching!
Any reason yu didn't replace the passenger side bearing?? IIRC, most Tundra front wheel bnearings turn about the same number of revolutions each 100,000 miles or so. Maybe you checked it and didn't shoot video of the passenger side wheel in the air. My 2000 doesn't have ABS so I should be able to replace my wheel bearing wither by buying a new hub with the bearing already in there or a friend of mine has a press and he can exchange "press time" for beer.....lol. I also noted no jack stands under the frame, but maybe I missed that step of the repair. All in all, very informative. Peace Out!!
My thought was that it seems to be in great shape and I actually bought all the parts and have them ready if it starts making noise on me again. I did have a jack stand under there, definitely don't want to support the whole truck with only a hydraulic jack. Thanks for watching
Could you not have used an impact on that tool to draw out the hub?
You could, but the instructions on the puller said not to in order to prevent damaging it. Because I was borrowing it from OReillys I didn't want to screw it up too bad lol and I opted to do it by hand. Thanks for watching!
why didn't you use the impact wrench, instead turning by hands?
The instructions said not to in order to not damage the tool. I was just renting it so I didn't want to wreck it. Thanks for watching
Nice work, but can't you afford to buy jack stands ??
Not sure what you're talking about, I have Jack stands under the frame. I always try to be pretty safe working under the truck! Thanks for watching!
Looking at what you did to you snapring, I'm guessing you selected a plate that was the size of the outer bearing and not just the hub.
Yeah, I was pretty careful about pressing just the bearing, but I think the hub was just so stuck in the bearing it pulled everything with it, including the snap ring. It sounds pretty normal for that to happen though. Thanks for watching - Sal
Do they sell a wheel hub Assembly with the bearing already pressed in so you can just swap it out ?
I didn't find one in my research, if I did I would have opted to do that lol. There may be an aftermarket option already pressed in, but most people will say that with wheel bearings it is smart to stick with OEM. Thanks for watching - Sal
It looks like you forgot to put grease on the seals and on the hub where it rides on the seal.
That's a good point, I don't think I greased those up. Not sure what effect that will have on longevity. Thanks for watching
My just as well replace the wheel hub
Yep, that's what I ended up doing. It made it a ton easier.
Have you done your rear bearing as well ? Mines are done and the sound and 🤦🏽♂️
Nope, sorry. I haven't had to deal with that yet. Thanks for watching!
Snap ring should have been removed before bearing pull out I thought
Yeah, you definitely need to remove the snap ring before pressing out the bearing. However, you cant remove the snap ring until the hub is pressed out. In my case, I tried pressing out the hub and half of the hearing came with it. Thanks for watching! - Sal
@@JDMDriveway that link I sent will save you next time
Hello Sal.
I understand you live in New port richey FL? Me too. I also have a 02 tundra with the same wheel noise. After watching the video want to hire you to do the job. Are you willing to help me Sal? Please let me know.
Hey Carl, I'm not sure where you heard that but I live up in Virginia Beach, VA. I also only work on my own cars, but I appreciate you reaching out. Best of luck with the repair - Sal
Never believe in Jack , support all truck alone .
New or used, always use stand jack , support more of 5 tons truck like that .
Ok video is good
Yeah I don't trust jacks either, it may be a little hard to see but I've got the jack stand under there supporting the weight of the truck. The jack is just a fail safe. Thanks for watching!
Just buy whole assembly already put together I posted link
The prices I saw for the whole knuckle seemed a bit higher than I was willing to spend. However, I would definitely recommend buying a brand new hub so you don't have to try and remove the leftover bearing half. - Sal
Where can I find the link? I’ve searched! Thank you
Never work under a vehicle without a jack-stand. A tire is not a safety device.
I definitely try to be as safe as I can when working under cars/trucks and I agree that you should always use a jack stand. I've got the The tire is only there as a last resort (and for convenient storage in my 1 car garage lol) I appreciate you reaching out though, and thanks for watching!
Thank you karen
Get yourself a compressor.
I've got one now and it's super handy!
Everyone beware iv done my wheel bearings 6 months ago with koyo ones and my driverside one has already failed.dont run 35s lol
Oof hate to see that. Thanks for watching!
This was much harder to do with the wrong tools and a 2wd truck....
i also used the same snap ring, it was doing the same thing. we just flattened it
also, the tightness of the new bearing is normal, give it time, it will set in nicely
haha it is definitely an involved process, I can't imagine doing it without tools specifically designed for it. Thanks for the insight about the new bearing, it's still working well a few days later so I'm optimistic. Thanks for watching! - Sal
Get rid of those wheel spacers
Not sure what you're referring to. I've got hub centric rings for these wheels, but no spacers. I agree that wheel spacers can do more harm than good and I don't plan to run them on any of my vehicles. Thanks for watching!
You're insane to rely only on your lift jack
I've gotten a couple of comments about this. It's hidden a little, but I do have the jack stand under the truck holding most of the load, and the lift jack is just there as a backup. Safety under a car is definitely important. Thanks for watching!
You shouldn't be working on vehicles. You did it wrong
Very Excellent thank you.
Glad to hear it, thanks for watching!
you bent the snap ring that's why it was bent
Yeah, I realized that afterwards. Thanks for watching
is there anyway to take the snap ring out before pressing the bearing
I don't think so because the snap ring sits behind the hub, so you have no access to it. The snap ring bent when I was pressing out the hub, then I removed it and pressed out the bearing itself. So I think it's just something you have to deal with unfortunately.
Excellent Presentation !
Thanks!