Chain Waxing - How To Save Watts & Keep It Clean For Longer!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ก.ค. 2024
- Ollie loves a waxed chain. They last longer, stay clean for longer and improve drivetrain efficiency, meaning you can save watts and ride faster as a result! In this video, he takes you through the steps to wax your chain, and, of course, takes the opportunity to tell you about all the sciency stuff too! This is the ultimate guide to chain waxing for cyclists.
The information contained in this film is for entertainment purposes only and should not be taken as an instructional guide. All actions undertaken in this video were undertaken in a well ventilated location. For your own safety and for the safety and protection of others around you, please do not attempt to recreate anything shown in this video without proper protection, including gloves and protective eyewear. We can accept no liability for any injuries or damage sustained should you try to recreate anything shown in this film.
00:00 Intro
00:28 The wax
01:24 How many watts does it save?
02:44 Why is waxing more effective?
03:43 Step 1 - clean the chain
07:37 Step 2 - melt the wax
09:14 Step 3 - wax the chain
12:17 Fit the chain & run it in
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Have you ever used a waxed chain? 👇
I've been doing it for years. Clean chain in white spirit I keep in a jar and reuse. Wax I use is just melted down old candles in a syrup tin. Heat it with a gas blow torch or in the summer with a foil covered satellite dish in the sun. Like to get it nice and hot and refit while it's still as hot as my fingers will suffer.
Ever since I tried it. Easiest way to keep a clean and eficient bike.
Started last year. Use it on all my bikes except the city bike. Does require good wipedowns and care in the winter with the salted roads! But I love it and I see it becoming the norm in the future.
I've hot waxed chains since the early 90's and been using Silca hot wax and drip wax for about a year now.
nope, although I did hear somewhere that it's better to run in a new chain first to get rid of all the machining sludge from the manufacturing process, then clean it, then wax it, I think because just cleaning it first doesn't get rid of metal particles and they get ground down and enter into the wax making a nice cutting paste, as opposed to grinding them down first and cleaning them out before waxing.
Just take note of ultrasonic cleaning errors shown here, they are very common.
1) De gas solution first for 10 mins - this makes a huge difference to ultrasonic cleaning power
2) Must fill tank to fill level (you can see the change bend in the metal near top of tank - that is the fill level). Typically you want a smaller tank than this, or you need to use a glass beaker with cleaning solution surrounded by demineralised water. The tranducers are designed for wave propagation with that volume of fluid - partially filling can damage transducers as well as give a low power clean
3) Never place a metal item to be cleaned directly on bottom of the tank - it may damage transducers and also on the bottom will have poor cleaning power - ultrasonics come with a basket to suspend items to be cleaned off the bottom of the tank.
If demonstrating ultrasonic cleaning - it is best to follow the instructions of the ultrasonic cleaner - making all 3 mistakes - not degassing (well, not shown), low fill level and placing directly onto bottom of the tank = a rather large ultrasonic cleaning demonstration fail.
I dont want this to come across harsh GCN - pls read the above in a very friendly tone - simply highlighting large errors re ultrasonic use that would give viewers following same procedure a much lower power clean from their US vs if they used properly, and it can damage the ultrasonic to fill with such a low level as well as placing item directly on bottom of tank which is less than optimal.
Lastly take not US cleaning with acetone - acetone releases a lot of flammable vapours, especially as it heats up from cavitation in the US. Flammable vapours and unshielded electronics may result in a significant emotional event for you and your house. Ensure you do outside / very well ventilated area and not on / near anything flammable.
Hey zfc, any comment on the advice about letting the wax cool before removing the chain? Don't recall seeing that from your instructions, should I do this?
@@boshacka Hey no dont do this. You can - in theory it will give you an EXTREMELY MARGINAL treatment longevity benefit - maybe. As the pressures inside the chain from pedalling load are really really high (hundreds to thousands of psi under any decent power output) - excess wax is quickly pressed out. So if you remove when almost cool, you will just have a huge mess of excess wax pressed out, and in about 10 minutes time, be in exactly the same place re wax layer inside the chain as someone who removed at 90dg c and then hung to set on a 40dg c day.
whilst you have that mass of excess inside chain making it also laterally a lot more stiff than desirable for some minutes longer - during that time you increase risk of chain drop or overshift etc - all up its a pretty rubbish extra 10 mins and just wasting a lot of wax.
So dont do that, remove at temp and hang to set - easy easy.
Hello sorry my english is not perfect. Can you explain me please the best way to use ultrasonic cleaner because in my opinion put the tank full of white-spirit or acetone is bad for health and there's a safety risk with vapor are 🔥so i need to know what i have to put in the Ultrasonic Tank and if I have to put directly the chain inside the tank or to put the chain in a small jar/zip bag in the tank?
If you can give me the good way to do with the Ultrasonic cleaner i will be happy.
You make a good explain but i don't understand all and i can't copy/paste to put on the translator :(
@@zerofrictioncycling992 thank a lot for the reply 🙏🏻
Also never put your hands in an ultrasonic cleaner that's active right,
A suggestion for cleaning in acetone - instead of filling the ultrasonic cleaner with acetone, put the chain in a sealed mason jar full of acetone, then fill and submerge the jar in water in the ultrasonic. Acetone fumes are terrible to breathe and can actually melt nearby plastic it's so aggressive. Not to even mention the vapors are highly flammable. Been using Secret Wax for two years now and absolutely love the ability to touch the chain without looking like a coal miner.
Some great tips! You have to stay safe when doing this sort of thing at home. If anyone is are worried, it's best to take it the shop and see if they can help you out 🙌
Freezer Zip-loc bags work great too! And yes, acetone and mineral spirits are terrible, no need for them. I use bio-degradable degreaser to remove the new chain grease, I rinse it hot water, then rubbing alcohol to remove the degreaser. Also, you don’t need a instapot if you have a good ultrasonic cleaner with temp control. For the Silca, I pour boiling water from a kettle and set the temp at 74 C, wax melting point. Then again using a ziplock drop some wax pellets in with the chain. Wait 10min for the wax to melt, chain to heat up, then turn on the ultrasonic for 8-10min. Best chain waxing ever!
Acetone is expensive and the vapours is too much for me. Personally I use Turpentine. It works great at cleaning the chain. You may have to use about 3 jars for the cleaning portion. I reuse the Turpentine so it's no so bad.
Rise with mineral spirits and you're ready to wax. Use to use Super Secret but have switched to UFO wax. It works much better with less mess.
@@JFomo Only thing to watch out with turpentine is it can leave a residue, but it's certainly not a bad alternative.
I use a jar with gasoline/petrol. To take out the initial grease on a brand new chain. Then rinse with degreaser in a different jar. Then wash off with water. final rinse with methyl hydrate making sure after shaking it.
I will say I burn the gas off 🔥- I don’t recommend doing that.
This will be my third year waxing my chain and love it. For the first cleaning I use the 3-jar method using mineral spirits and then repeat with denatured alcohol. I heat the wax to 195 F , turn off my cheap $15 crock pot and leave the chain in it till it cools to 145 F . For all future waxing I use boiling water to clean before rewaxing. A clean quiet chain and bike.
Did mine for the first time at the weekend. Outstanding results, chain and shifting is so quiet. Pretty much the same process but used degreaser for usonic washes and isopropyl alcohol to finish off (chain was 6 months old!). Now just need to see how long it lasts before having to re-wax. But so far so good👍
Great to hear you've taken the plunge! More Waxed chain content to come don't worry 🙌
Been on wax for over a year for all my bikes. Just like tubeless, I never looked back. In order to save yourself some time and supplies, I recommend doing a batch of a few chains.
I used this method in full for the first time today. The difference when it comes out of the acetone - wow. You can actually hear the difference in the chain. Thanks, Ollie & GCN Tech!
So glad GCN has finally seen the light on chain waxing. Although I wish Ollie had done more to differentiate the genuine faff that is the initial stripping of the factory grease, from how easy rewaxing a chain is on an ongoing basis.
Great to hear you are a wax fan? Have you been waxing your chains for a while? Do you do the maintenance yourself at home or take to a shop? 👀
@@gcntech 4 years waxing. These days I buy my new chains pre-waxed to save disposing of the chemicals at home, but re-apply the wax at home with a crock pot every 200-300 km (2 chains in rotation).
@@andrewmcalister3462 that would be roughly every 10 hours... I am wondering if it's the wax that makes the difference or the complete chain overhaul that does it, that nobody applies to typical chain lube protocols.
@@aarondcmedia9585 it's the wax. Have a look at Zero Friction Cycling if you want to see the "independent testing" and go down the rabbit hole :)
I totally agree. The fact Simon is still giving Ollie such a hard time about waxing is that these guys don't realise how much of a TIME SAVING waxing is! Especially if you buy your chain prewaxed, given how quick it is rewax vs degreasing your drive train and relubing, means Ollie still has some work to do to get the message across clearly :)
1) A safety suggestion from a waxed chain user. If you don’t have an ultrasonic cleaner and you wanna do the alternativ method Olli was talking about … use a plastic jar. A jar made out of glas can break while shaking the chain inside. Did happen to me already 2 times.
2) don’t drop your fresh waxed chain on a paper towel, it will stick to it like glue. Hang it over the pot and let it cool down, the rest will drip inside the pot. After this run it over some wooden dowel and move the chain links to break the wax that’s on the outside. After they move freely you can put it back on the bike.
I thought that with the towel aha. Cheers for the tips!
I have a pice of parchment paper that I reuse works great.
Just like oz cycle has been doing for years
Some great tips here! How long have you been waxing your chain for? 👀
@@gcntech now for over 2 years. I love it so much and never want to go back to oil. Just when I think about getting oily fingers every time I removed the rear wheel to put it in the car... pfff it's like day and night
I’ve been waxing chains for years. Like this routine and might try it next new chain! Would be really good to see how you maintain the chain 😊
We love to hear it! Don't fret We're sure we can do more chain waxing content soon! How do you think it's improved your riding? 👀
Good video, I'd suggest a bit more detail on the how to break up the wax before trying to mount it on your bike. The freshly waxed chain is very stiff (like stand on its own stiff), so I have a wooden dowel that I wrap the chain around and drag it back and forth to break up all the hardened wax. (you can also break it up by hand, but it takes a while). Then reverse the chain and do it one more time. At this point, the chain can be mounted normally on the bike and run in. (I actually do it outside because the waxy flakes are a bit hard to clean up off my turbo mat). Two other tips: if you're waxing the quick-link, make sure to clear out the wax from the mating holes and posts of the quick-link and the end links as well - otherwise it can be difficult to get it to seat properly. Second tip, (if you have the budget) is to buy two chains and rotate between them. Then you can always have a waxed chain handy to swap out. It's a bit of work to get all the equipment out and wax the chain (with the time required to heat, cool, and run in a fresh chain), so having a second chain lets you do that on a miserable Sunday morning at your leisure. Well worth the modest cost.
Yes the wax crunching bit is the most fun part- I use a metal pole in garden, attached to something.
I personally pull my chain against a chain keeper to break it up. Pull the full length, flip the chain over and pull the full length again. Takes 15 seconds :)
Some great tips here! So cool to hear that you have already put the time into waxed chain! How has a waxed chain changed your riding? 👀
Tankx Ollie just the video I've been waiting for, well since I got me a bag of chain wax. Looking forward to a clean quiet drive train this season.
Have been waxing chains on both my bikes entire season last year. Absolutely love it. I do avoid acetone though. I clean in old solvent -> new solvent -> alcohol.
Thanks for making this video! It has convinced me that I never, ever want to mess with waxing my own chain. I'll keep using the Super Secret Chain Lube as it works great!
Nothing wrong with good old fashioned chain oil, we just love delving into the nerdy side of cycling 🤓 We are big fans of chain waxing 🙌
@@gcntech Is super secret chain lube the same as old fashioned chain oil? I thought it was more advanced and was a wax.
@@SidAuteur It is intended to have as much of the properties as actual wax, but applied directly on a clean chain. It's a Silca product.. really good.
It is like tubeless tires, replace a simple solution (the use of inner tubes) by a much more labour intensive solution. I use a teflon based oil for lubing my chains, just replaced the chain on my Belgian bike after 8000km with the same chain (ultegra DI2, at 0.75 chain ware, more frequent in wet circumstances), my other bike in Spain has now over 15000km with the same chain (=105 triple, not jet at 0.75 chain ware, more dry conditions, but more frequent gear shifting in the mountains). I only clean the chains externally once a week with a dry cloth and reaply oil twice a month of earlier after a drive in the wet. That's all I do, no cleaning with agressive degreasers etc
I made the conversion in late-2018 from a Drip Lube to a Wax. I was riding a lot and hated needed to degrease by chain after every Winter ride.
I have two chains that I rotate, and wax about every 3 weeks. I always wash my bike in warm water, so no chains have rusted on me.
It's really cool that Silca have replaced Muc-Off as a channel sponsor, so you can take good information mainstream.
Yes, silca has a great line of products, and as far as lubes go muc off didn't stand up well in the independent testing.
@@markjthomsonyou probably want to have a look at Enigma Ultimate Chain Wax…. Much better value and I find it works perfectly…
@@leetaylor4947 not sure how easy it is to get in NZ. Silca tested very well with zero friction cycling tests.
Like 25 years ago I used a silicone chain grease. It came in a syringe and was thick like grease. You'd have to rub it in with your fingers. But the chain stayed pretty clean and would last about a 100 miles. Been so long since I used it, I can't even remember what it was called. But I'm liking what I see here.
Wax chains in batches, used ones, cheap ones, those for racing, etc. And cycle through the lot there after. Easy!
I grew out of using WD-40, now I routinely clean my three chains (tandem, you know) by shaking and stirring them in gasoline (regular).
But who knows, maybe I'll grow up one day and use wax...
Couple of tips:
1) Put something (I use a couple of bent paperclips) through the pin holes in the open links, if one of the rollers falls out in the wax and you don't notice its annoying to say the least, especially if the wax in the pot has cooled (YBN chains that often get recommended for waxing are prone to this on re-waxing in my experience).
2) If you are having trouble getting the Quicklink on after waxing its because wax has forced the inner plates of the open ends apart slightly. GENTLY squeeze the inner plates of the each end together with pliers while GENTLY heating with a lighter, and allow to cool why still applying GENTILE pressure this will make the wax soft enough to displace the excess from between the plate and the roller. When you have the link lined up It doesn't hurt anything to "flash" it with the lighter too, just before you snap it into place.
A distinction is in order. The degreaser is non polar and, clearly, works to dissolve grease. The acetone is polar and works to remove residual contamination left by the degreaser as Ollie says. Both steps are needed for best results.
From what I've read, it's not just the chain that is prolonged, but the crank and cassette as well.
yes that is my experience and others I know. as above mentioned, 3 chains to one cassette, 3 cassettes to one chainring. currently one chain has 11,000km @ 0.3% wear. real money saver. but I use Paraffin wax and ptfe it is much cheaper at about $12AU fir 6000 km.
Yes. They eventually do wear but in a different way... unrelated to constant working of a stretched chain as would be the case with other lubes.
Learned something new today, thanks GCN!
You should have a look at Enigma Ultimate Chain wax….
My tip from years of waxing - don't suspend the chain from the last link. You can dislodge the inner part of the link and wreck your chain. :/
Been using Squirt Lube on summer bike for a while now, seems like a nice compromise/balance between benefits/faff of full on waxing (after initial chain degrease)
I used it but switched to wax last year. My chain on squirt was done after 4k km, waxed chain is almost like new after 7k. I actually wax 3 chains at the time and rotate them so I don't have to do it as often. Works well.
I also use Squirt - it’s fantastic. The lifetime of the chain is super long too. I just changed it (I religiously change chains when they get to 0.5) and had done 15,000 km on it in less than a year.
Hooray for GCN tech seeing the benefits of chain waxing!
Compared to previous lubes I used, that silca hot melt and super secret drip lube are freaking awesome.
Im at over 4k miles on one chain, with a good bit of life left!
Yeah you have to dust off the excess wax dandruff after a fresh treatment, but its nothing compared to solvent cleaning chains and having to change the black-gunk-filled degreaser or solvent out repeatedly.
Just use plain paraffin. Performs the same.
Never waxed my chain before, but I'm going to give it a try now. Thanks
It's a total win. I love how the chain stays clean and needs minimal or no maintenance between rides and no black greasy fingers.
Just in time, exactly what I was looking for.
Started waxing my chains over a year ago and never looked back! No grime, SO much quieter, faster, and my drivetrain parts last longer!
GCN must have read my mind, only this morning did I order a bag of Silca wax to try out 🤯This video is saved and I’ll refer back to this when it comes to cooking time. Thanks 👍🏻
Same, I ordered the Silca Super Secret the other day and just applied it my chain last night!
haha yeah, mine showed up 2 weeks ago, and my new sonicator yesterday.... let me in coach.. GCN covering this is right on time. I started using a drip on wax lube last spring, so really looking forward to this spring... will never go back to oil
Used this method decades ago for my motorbike chains. Surprised it's taken this long to appear for bicycles.
I switched to waxing a few years ago, I have tried a few different systems and currently love using the Enigma Ultimate Chain wax by select cycling products….
I can definitely say I’ll never use oil on a chain again….
Easy to get hold of too as it’s on Amazon….
I’ve been waxing my chains for 6 years now so much better clean last longer!
Currently converting my stock Trek FX 3 Disc to a gravel bike. Swapped the seat post, stem, and flat bars for redshift shock stop seat post, stem, and flared drop bars. This meant changing the shifters. But they don’t make drop bar shifters for a 3x9 groupset WITH hydraulic breaking. So I had to also upgrade from Shimano Acera to a Tiagra groupset. (Your videos were extremely helpful in all of this by the way.) I’ve told this story just to say that now I have a brand new chain and will definitely be waxing it rather than using the environmentally unfriendly white lightening lube.
Been waxing my chains for years. A little bit of work but a whole lot cleaner than dealing with grease.
Been using wax and 2 chains on my road bike for about a year, went to wax on my touring bike as well. Brilliant lube method. Not really any more time than using a drip lube and great results. Wouldn't go back to a drip lube without a lot of kicking and screaming.
Interesting to hear you've made the switch on the touring bike! Would you take a second chain with you that is pre waxed incase of an emergency? 🚨
@@gcntech no, on longer rides I carry a high quality drip wax such as the Squirt product.
@@gcntech that was a good question. Yes, I carry a second chain (Dura ace so it is light, LOL). When it is time to replace, i wash the chain in hot water in the hotel sink to move any possible much off, dry it and then put on the liquid wax i made (see OZ Cycles) and put in a plastic zip bag to go on in about 250km. This works as I guess would some of the other liquid wax treatments.
Apparently the film that comes on new packaged chains is not a lube at all. It’s there purely to preserve the chain that may sit around for weeks/months/years before being used, to prevent oxidation.
So it should be stripped off (cleaned 100%) before any use and/or waxing/lubing.
Excellent primer. A good follow up would be to provide ongoing maintenance tips and schedules. As it is, this tutorial follows Josh/Silca's videos fairly well except for the quick link. Silca doesn't recommend waxing it. Not a huge deal but because friction occurs between inner and outer links of a chain, the quick link is an outer and the inners are already waxed, there is no need. Additionally, again not a huge deal but waxing the quick link requires more diligence to make sure it is really set as the wax will make this harder to determine. So really, no reason to go to the trouble.
Yes I don't understand the not waxing the quick link, it wears at least as fast, if not faster, than the remaining components. Zero Friction Cycling certainly recommend waxing the quick link. I would say there is no disadvantage from including it in the waxing.
Maintenance is easy: after ~300km (or less if riding in muddy, wet conditions) pour boiling water on the chain (so water can drain away) and wipe down with a clean rag. No degreaser required ever again.
Is there anything to be cautious about when cleaning the bike itself? Like, it is safe to leave the chain on and have soapy water run over it without taking the wax off?
@@marcelsow5817 it is better to take chain off before cleaning (quicklink) but if you are using gentle soap (car wash) and not too hot water (to melt the wax) and avoid washing chain itself it should be fine
@Richard George thanks. I do have quicklink chain, so maybe I just do that. As far as soap I am using muc-offs stuff
How nice, I ordered wax and bought a slow cooker yesterday
Zero friction cycling (the people whose tests you're quoting) did a great video on why Ultrasonic cleaners are not necessary. Also worth noting that some chains require more effort to degrease than others i.e SRAM
They also changed their recommended cleaning instructions, now it is a single bath using a single solution, no more mineral spirits and acetone needed. They recommend CeramicSpeed’s UFO Clean Drivetrain. Yes it is a little more expensive but worth it for the simplicity.
@@Adonis-qj1nq I'll take a look at that thanks 👍
Nice to see you guys not shilling for Muc Off anymore.
I finally waxed my chain last week with the Silca stuff. So far I'm very pleased just from how quiet it is and how clean it is.
How long does the hot wax last in kilometers?
@antonioj.2147 iirc on the Marginal Gains podcast Josh Poertner, CEO of Silca, said to top it up about every 200km with the wax based Silca Super Secret Chain lube and rewax (just a wipe down and redip) after really nasty offroad conditions or every 1000km to get the wax back inside the pins good.
If you're really interested having a listen to the Marginal Gains podcast is probably best. That information will be straight from the horses mouth, so to speak.
@@veriest1 I know, I listened to the podcasts but I can't get my hands on drip wax lube
I love the way that you say it’s the fastest wax to humanity depending on which test you look at - big disclaimer there. Then, you introduce us to an even faster wax! 😎
Great video, just at the end I would recommend to hang the chain to drip the excess off into the pot below. Less paper tissues used and saves some wax for the next time.
I’m a big fan of waxing, it makes cleaning the whole bike much easier, not just the chain.
So true
Ive'been doing this for months and i love how the drive train super clean and none of dirt was attracted
totally agree
That's the joys of Waxing your chain! No more oil marks across your legs or dirty hands 🙌
How often do you repeat the waxing? And what do you do to clean or remove the wax before putting it back in?
@@leonbroekx about every 500km or so, and you can just top up your waxing using Silca Super Secret Drip Lube unless you do something stupid like ride through a creek which was deeper and muddier than you thought. You don't need to clean the wax off (with boiling water) unless it is dirty ie that creek crossing
@@leonbroekx It may vary depending on what wax you use and the conditions in which you ride. I use it for mtb and, in this use, 100km is too much already. For the road I have never gotten more than 200km with any wax, so I prefer wax based intermediate (wet/dry) lubes since they last longer but are fairly easy to clean. But if you decide to try wax, I highly suggest doing two or more chains to keep them in rotation... also, be sure to super clean the chainrings and cassette (and jockey wheels) as well since residual oils will contaminate the waxed chain. Cheers.
I started waxing last year for the first time. It's a bit of a hassle because of the need to take the chain off the bike every 300km or so, but I put in 9,000km last year with *zero* indicated chain wear!
My solution was to buy 3 chains, wax at the same time and rotate between them :) I store each chain with its links in a ziplock bag, when all 3 are done, wax them and repeat
@@kamigato 100% same SOP here!
I do this,
I have three old plastic mason jars from Amazon.
Mineral spirits first in Ultrasonic cleaner at 65C for about an hour. Then Rinse, for sram chains I may do it another 30.
Degreaser for guns cleaning orange type that won’t etch metal like simple green for an hour then rinse.
Denatured alcohol bath, shake , pull and hang to dry for an hour or so. If you do it right the denatured alcohol stays clears and can be used over again.
My chains come out like a gleaming piece of jewelry.
Clean with microfiber cloth and SILCA wipes every 200 miles or so and apply super secret wax drip to extend the wax chain life. I have over 1500 miles on the current chain I’m using and still doesn’t need rewax.
2:09 :
"Quick Ollie, we need some more B-roll! Got any ideas?"
"What if I do this?" 😂
Hahahah caught red handed... 😳
@@gcntech It made me chuckle! 😁
I need a girlfriend that can do B-roll like that!
#ASKGCNTECH. When selling a bike some sellers announce "only used on hometrainer" as a positive thing but I suspect that hometrainers can damage a bike, especially a frame, much more than riding outdoors in a bit of rain. Especially when sprinting on a bike locked into the trainer vice. Can GCN get some data on this ?
I’ve been doing this for a few years now but didn’t know about optimum time to take the chain out of the wax, thanks. I clean chains first with a 3 jar method of petrol, brake cleaner, methylated spirits.
Used to do it with just paraffin wax. Will go back to it when my current chain wears out. I love how clean the chain stays.
@@sellindgeflyer Not a great logic my dude. It's like saying coke is just rebranded water. Yes, 95% is paraffin, but those last 5% makes a lot of difference.
How long does the hot wax last?
@@antonioj.2147 generally 300-500km’s. After that if you are not anal about every last bit of of performance, You can just brush off crap and plop back into wax. No need for stripping off old one. Very low effort maintenance.
@@futurememeudontgetyet1202 so I guess, waxing every weekend should cut it?
@@antonioj.2147 not necessarily. I have 3 chains on the go. Re-wax when all 3 are ready.
Quick cook version: a) buy 2 or 3 specially cleaned new chains ready for waxing... b) throw all at once into melted wax- swish around for few mins, c) hook out and drop into tinfoil- flipping package up and down for 5 mins whilst cooling. Much easier!!
30,000km into waxing and I love it. What I love most about it is how easy it is to clean the bike. You'd be amazed at how easy it is to clean a bike when the chain is off and the chainrings/cassette don't need any attention. When I get home, I take the chain off, turn the slow cooker on, head to the garden to wash the bike (pressure washer or a bucket of warm soapy water and some elbow grease). Come back inside and set the bike to dry, have a shower, put the chain in the wax, have some food, take the chain out the wax. When you look at it that way, the extra steps of waxing the chain adds minimal time to the whole procedure - in fact, I think it saves time because I don't faff around with degreaser on my cassette or chain on the bike.
I recently went even further into the world of wax and started using turtle wax / carnauba wax on my frame. However, I recently heard that dish soap (which is what I use to clean my bike) actually breaks down this stuff, and therefor I might just be washing it off very quickly... any chemistry nerd insights #askgcntech ?
great note. I use carwash on my bikes then use spray on SIO2 wax (stick with the dark side).
Definitely don’t use dish soap / fairy liquid to wash a frame you have polished or waxed. It’s a strong degreaser ( which is what it’s designed to do) so immediately strips off any wax or polish you have added. This is exactly why you shouldn’t wash your car with it either. I find car wash/wax solution is great for washing bikes, just as it is for cars.
I don't get that bit about excess wax forming dirt-attracting gunk. A major reason why the chain stays so clean is that the wax gradually sheds. Having a lot of excess wax on the chain means a lot of wax will shed on the first ride, and is thus wasteful, but it won't form gunk.
Also, for those who aren't racing, cleaning a chain after the initial cleaning is generally unnecessary - I just throw my chain directly into the wax pot unless it's totally covered in mud or otherwise extremely dirty, and even then I usually just hose it off with water. The melted wax will clean out all the dirt.
Just pour boiling water over the chain to remove old wax and dirt…. 👍
Pro Tipp: use the excessive wax on your hair to make it more aero
🤣🤣
just go bald max aero
Stop giving away Ollie's performance gains secrets!
@@a1white These are from hambini's hairdresser. :)
Word of warning for those who have not waxed your chain before. The chain is much more exposed to the elements and WILL rust in rainy winter conditions. However you can get around this by using KMC EPT chains. These are highly resistant to rust (their own blurb says tested with 650 hours of salt water). The only problem then is salted/gritted roads. The salt level is much higher than seawater and even the EPT chains struggle here. So when roads are salted you must clean the surface of chain regularly (like spray/wipe) with water to get that salt off. I have waxed chains for myself and friends for the last 4 years and will never go back to lube. The chains are so clean even after 300 miles and they last much longer.
Been following oz cycle he's been waxing chains for years.
Questions: After your chain is waxed and you've ridden, how do you know that the wax has worn out and needs to be re-done? How long is it supposed to last? And what are the steps to go about re-waxing/cleaning an already waxed chain?
I was wondering the same
You will hear the 'dry chain' noise. Depending on conditions and the wax, but for me it's usually after around 200km.
You’ll hear when it needs a re-wax. To re-wax just put chain in hot water to melt off old wax, then the wax bath.
What about degreasing/cleaning other drivetrain components? Or do I just need to deep clean the chain?
@@Jedpack you should clean the whole drivetrain when you switch to a waxed chain. otherwise, the chain will pick up dirt and grease from the other parts.
I think a new channel needs to be created: GCN Nerd. A channel that lets Ollie properly loose being as technical as he wants a without holding back. All the scientific terms, all the deep dive stats, no holds barred
Noticed you mentioned tungsten disulfide (WS2) as an additive to reduce friction, just wondering if they also use molybdenum disulfide (MoS2) as well for a cheaper option. WS2 has a COF of 0.03 whereas MoS2 is around 0.05 but is more widely available. I'm in Brazil and getting hold of any chain wax is like looking for unicorn droppings!
White Spirit, performance degreaser and acetone. Cycling.... the environmentally friendly hobby!
You can pour them in and out of the same bottle, if you use Coffee Filter Paper.
you can also let them settle and then pour the clean solvent floating above the sludge back into its original container for future use
I wax three at a time and rotate them every 4-500 before re-wax. Saves a lot of time and chains may last longer than the bike! Also, wipe chain down with mineral spirits if wet to avoid rust.
Do you also batch wax chains to save time further down the line? 👀
@@gcntech yes - exactly.
how soon shall i run it in and i'm assuming this is a single event ?
sure, how to maintain the wax best, especially riding in rain or heavy gravel for continuous km'
strip the brand new chain, in a 4 step process, with a variety of harmful substances and then make a wax soup in a crock pot. first , the hydraulic disc brakes, then tubeless goop. was the video directed by Gwinneth Paltrow?
Yay for Silca! been using silca SS drip, game changer. Melt wax would be even better.
Thank you a lot, now I know that I need to replace my bicycle chain with a belt, although on my current bicycle that is not possible!
The Tigerblood Jewel sound clip.. pure class 😀👍
#AskGCNTech: On my winter/summer-bad-weather bike is still a lubricated (Silca Synergetic wet lube) 11speed KMC-SL chain on. According to the birzman chain tool, the chain is finished (1mm), but anyway I want to put on another (larger) chain ring, new spockets (a 12-23 10speed veloce, via 1.85mm spacers for shimano 10speed cassettes on 11speed freewheels and a 11teeth sprocket to get a 11-23 11speed), and a new 11speed chain. My question is: have you ever tested how long it is possible to ride a chain until it collapses? As it seems, here in Germany spring will come earlier than usual, and I want to put on a new (waxed) chain as late as possible.
Any suggestions as to best ultrasonic machine? Would also need to be big enough for a 52t cassette.
What if you lack a turbo trainer or rollers? How do you perform the 15 min 'spin'?
I have the setup but must admit I'm going to use a highend double boiler for melting the wax. Has anyone tried a double boiler other than "drop the bag in water approach?
ANOTHER thing to consider is the brand of chain. *KMC is not compatible with wax* because of a coating they do. Keep that in mind. Otherwise there will be poor performance of the wax last very little amount of mileage
I've been waxing KMC chains for years - never a problem
@@litespud me too
@@litespud thanks for your input. These personal experience can add to real world data on what people are experiencing rather than just lab alone.
I got this notion of KMC and wax from Zero Friction when i read in one of the comments of a video.
I even asked in a recent video about kmc vs shimano because I’ve read people’s comments disagreeing which to use for wax. Some claimed kmc would be better as it didn’t rust like shimano with wax.
I’ll just quote a section of the recent response from ZFC
“In general have definitely had issues with KMC vs shimano. For every 10 emails i receive re people who have switched to immersive waxing that are having a bad time (ie chain is sounding and feeling really dry really quickly) upon checking - if they have followed the initial cleaning prep correctly - 9 out of 10 cases it will be a kme chain. 1 out of 10 it is something else (usually then an error in the prep - ie didnt ensure no film left, wrong cleaning product etc. SHimano 11spd do feel more dry more quickly vs sram campy / ybn - but nowhere near like KMC.”
I also use KMC with no problems *BUT* I use only 8 speed chains. I believe the current model name is z8.3. So not just brand but model of chain influences on what coating(s) they receive. I don't race so a cheaper transmission is more than enough... these chains need no quick link and thus are easier/cheaper to take off and put back on. They are also less prone to getting stiff links as compared to Shimano and SRAM upon being "broken".
@@KarlosEPM yes I believe you are correct in that it gets more specific in also the models of the brands as well.
I guess we all need to be willing to experiment with what we have and form our own conclusion.
Mineral spirits can be used in place of degreaser. Denatured alcohol can be used in place of acetone.
I am a big fan of waxing chains. It is a lot of work to set up, yes. And rust can be an issue . There are more rust resistant chains on the market. Which I have 3 of on the way. KMC X8 PTC. I think. I keep my bikes inside and the reduction of time spent getting oily marks off floors etc is so worth it. The bike is easier to clean and the chain is something you can touch with no dirt. Connex Wipperman quick links are brilliant too. Tool free chain removal .
I have used a waxed chain. The biggest downside for me was rain. This is where the wax failed for me.
Interesting…. Why? Because I used a waxed chain at Ironman Waco 2022 in the pouring down rain for half the bike course and it was just fine. No noises, buttery smooth shifts, etc….
@@EatMyPropwash Maybe I did something wrong, but riding in the wet made my chain rust fairly fast. For me personally waxing was/is more benefitial in dry conditions.
@@numb3510 User Error mate, with the Wax Chain, you're supposed to do a Hot Water Rinse when you get back after a Wet Ride. Hot Water will clear out the Cold Water, and then Evaporate before Rusting the chain. Use a Microfiber cloth to wipe it down.
@@LukeGJPotter Thanks. Will keep that in mind.
@@numb3510 Cool bro, I hope you have better results in future.
Hello everyone,
I am thinking of changing to wax for lube.
I cycle for my commute daily. Does this method of lube increase maintenance?
For subsequent waxings does the full cleaning process need to be repeated in full?
The red bottle of Silca Brake/Chain cleaner. on the left of the screen, is fantastic. Does not dissolve chain wax but gobbles up chain dirt. I clean my waxed chain with this, then apply the SS dripon, and never have to take the chain off the bike.
That a thought is there any chains you can buy without any factory grease/lube? I hate having to remove it when wax, I find 50-55c when I pull chain out but yeah have to remove extra stuff, I often use like a needle to remove from between rollers so not fill drain train
How often between wax chain? Like how many miles or time between need to redo?
I have a guestion. Will gcn plus ever be on roku? Watching on my phone is alright, but on my 50 inch flat-screen would be better.
In case you don’t want to spend $$$ on an ultrasonic cleaner, get 2 of the bigger Ball jars. 1 with Mineral spirits, and 1 with Denatured Alcohol. Drop the chain in the mineral spirits first, shake not hard not soft, somewhere in between for a good 1-2 minutes. Let it sit in the spirits for 20-30min, then pull the chain out, wipe it dry and if there’s any dirt left that comes off in the towel, back in the spirits it goes. Repeat until clean. Once clean, dry of and drop into denatured alcohol. Shake for 2-3min, then pull it out and dry it off. Air dry for 30min. Then do the waxing procedure.
Nice little recipe! Have you been waxing your chain for some time now? 👀
@@gcntech Giggity….. lol. Ok ok ok…. Yes, about 5 years now. Actually I couldn’t find any Molten Speedwax before my Ironman race October last year so I bought the Silca secret wax and I must say…. Look up raceday conditions in the morning at Waco 70.3 ….. it was a monsoon. People complain of waxes not doing good in the rain… this stuff was flawless on the Shimano Dura-Ace chain I must say.
Silca. Park Tool. Ollie. Nothing but the best! 😀👍
Won't the SIL-TEC coating on some shimano chains wear of using spirit/acetone degreasers? Or it will still be intact?
As far as I'm aware SIL-TEC is the electroplating on the links it should be unaffected.
@@chris1275cc ok thanks for that
Is it worth waxing in grimmy conditions? What about off-road in the UK (Gravel or MTB)? I don't mind so much about the efficiency but if it requires less cleaning I'm all in. I could see myself getting a little cosmetic wax melting pot in the garage and running it while I clean my bike, but does require a bit of initial investment.
Thanks! Good advice. One question: Is the chain on a new bike straight from the factory the same as a new chain purchased separately.
Almost certainly. It will need degreasing before hot waxing, for sure.
Love this! ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Warning!! @GCN Sauté gets extremely hot up to 176 degree Celsius in an instapot and cause the wax to burn, and even potentially ignite. I think Ollie meant to say you are supposed to select the slow cooking option, that will never overheat the wax.
Actually on the more mode of sauté, the instapot heats to 210 degrees, above the 199 flash ignite point of the parrafin. With the slow cooking option you max out at 99 degrees, enough to melt the wax but never enough to burn it.
Hi, I am going to start waxing my chain this season. I am in process of buying all neccessary things. I got a slow cooker etc. There are ton of videos on waxing and cleaning factory grease prewaxing. However what i cant really find much information on is cleaning rest of the drivetrain and how important is it. For cassette i would take it off the bike and clean it in the containers same way as the chain i suppose. But what about the jockey wheels and the front rings? Can you sufficiently clean the front rings on the bike when switching to chain waxing from using regular lubes? Thank you for your comments.
You are right, these things aren't usually mentioned. Yes, all of the drivetrain must be as close to squeaky clean as you can get them. Cassette off the wheel is the easiest. Jockey wheels you can also take off and clean thoroughly but acetone eats plastic so be careful here if yours aren't metallic. The chainrings can be taken off too in most mid to high end groupsets, but it is possible to clean them properly while mounted. A stiff bristled brush (even a toothbrush) works well. I go as far as degreasing the front derailleur cage :| . Sounds like a pain, and it is... but it's a one time ordeal. It saves time and money on the long run. It seems less daunting if you have another bike to ride and undertake this project slowly so that you don't rush it. It's paramount to be thorough with the degreasing.
@@KarlosEPM Thanks a lot for the reply. Really helpful. I have full Shimano Ultegra groupset
I use drip wax and like it a lot but I've noticed what I first thought was soil under my trainer, which has a dedicated bike. It's actually dollops of wax. Is this normal or am I applying too much?
You can also purchase pre-waxed chains from third parties then top up with a wax lube from a bottle ongoing. This makes a simple solution with less faff.
Do you repeat the same process when cleaning and rewaxing the chain? And how often do you re wax?
No, you can just clean the surface crap off the chain (I use a cheap chain brush dry while on the bike) and dump it back in the wax and it will basically clean the rest itself, the wax prevents most dirt getting to the rollers so the inside does need cleaning much just topping up with wax. If you feel like you ran the chain a little too long and are worried dirt got in there, or you go on a particularly dirty ride you can boil the chain in water and all the old wax will float to the top. Re-waxing depends on the conditions but 200-400km I know it doesn't sound like much but once you get into the habit re-waxing takes minutes of your actual time. You don't even need to wait for the wax to melt, just drop the chain on top of the hard wax and turn the pot on. Most company's that sell chain wax also sell a dripping/squirt wax that you can use to top up if you are going on a very long ride or cant do a proper re-waxing for some reason.
@gcntech I followed Ollie's tutorial to the letter and when i put the chain on my bike initially because of the wax in between the links etc the chain does not quite sit right and sounds very clunky, probably all the little bits of wax tapping as it goes. Should this noise stop as the chain runs in ?
What will happen if you just clean your chain with regular degreaser and then use the wax? Can the acetone, for obvious reasons, be skipped? Is a little bit of grease so bad for a waxed chain?
There has to be no grease left on the chain, it has to be perfectly clean or the grease will prevent the wax from adhering. The extra step of cleaning with acetone or alcohol is not a big deal and makes a better job of it
How long does it last? When do you need to re-apply? How do you remove existing wax, same way as applying first coat - under hot temperature?
I’ve been waxing my chains fore quite a while and I’ve never worried about the wax cooling before removing the chain, and yet after hanging my chains to dry they are stiff and the wax bond has to be broken in the usual sense before installation. Based on what you said here, the wax would have run out if the chain because I failed to wait for it to cool to that *just right* temperature, whatever that is supposed to be. I would think that the surface tension of the wax would be enough to keep enough wax in place to be effective. Am I wrong?
Great question! This method is new to me too…
I have a little fan that I use to cool the chain down to minimize runoff after removing it from the wax (as I do several at a time).
You are absolutely right. The cooling down is not needed.
Silca agrees with you… 🙂
I quickly dump the hot chain into a bucket of clean cold water. sets the wax INSIDE the chain instead of running out by hanging up hot. I hope this helps.
What capacity Ultrasonic Cleaner is big enough for a chain? Anyone know?
just wondering... i'm planning a 3000km trip this summer and thought about waxing my chain for that. how is the longevity of the wax and what can i do on the road to maintain/rewax it?
or is it better to take "normal" lube on that trip?
thanks :)
My question also. #askgcntech - what lube should we use for a fortnight's bikepacking tour on gravel with the inevitable prospect of poor weather? Currently I use Squirt, but after a few stream crossings and bad weather, I need to reapply after 100km.
Look into Effetto Mariposa Flowerpower wax. Zero friction cycling rates it very highly. I’ve had good results with it between chain dip waxings.
@@BikePappy thanks a lot :)
I done mine last weekend and I love it. But what I did a bit different was when I put my chain in I left the chain to sit in the wax for 5 minutes. Making the chain the hot will allow for better wax adhesion.
No need to buy expensive wax. Just buy a bag of paraffin wax pellets and a tiny one of ptfe powder and melt them together. To clean the chain first you can use petrol followed by isopropyl alcohol. That can be done in a jar or other container with a sealed lid and shaken periodically and left to stand. The wax can be melted in a pan over a low heat on a stove, though a slow cooker is a good idea
Graphite works just as well as ptfe and encourages less toxic waste, if you are interested in that. But yeah, 100% no need for fancy waxes.
Can you buy a pre-waxed chain and how long would the wax last?
Can I use my friend's scented candles for wax? She has a huge collection.