Usually you put the flex fuel sensor on the return in order to prevent any kind of restriction being on the feed side. Probably won't have an issue but that's how I've always done it.
Restriction after and before feed is both very important. If your flex fuel is not restricting the pressure/flow coming in the fuel pressure regulator, it wont make a difference. On paper.
Such a good video once again. Informational, fun, relaxed. Love your vibe! I always make time in my day to watch your videos when I get the notification
noo waayy, new video! I'm glad to see you uploaded new video again, 40 minutes! Watched always you content and you do quality, like for real! This e30 sounds sick and pulls are so crazy.
Hi Joel. I had boost creep on my Saab b204 when I replaced the old factory 2.25 exhaust system to a full 3 inch free flow one. Old system 12 psi, new one should be the same boost but around 5k rpm started to raise to 22 psi . Straight away hard fuel cut because of the 2.5 bar map sensor so quick test of the seat belts en route. ... I had to enlarge the wastegate flap port via a die grinder. No more boost creep. I didn't change the turbine housing but changed the whole turbo for a bigger one and it spooled almost the same time as the smaller one probably couse the 3 inch exhaust flows much more freely I guess. Now with a remap steady 20 psi from 3K rpm till redline. Love your videos and all the best with the build. Bal
I have the same booster/throttle body/cable setup on my car and I got a universal throttle cable end from Autozone and shortened the cable a little using that. It allowed me to adjust the elbow to be between the brake lines
bro i remember watching since before his engine blew. its now on a built motor and running again. its so crazy to watch this go down, a playlist would be sooo nice for when its running smoother and he takes it out to events or doordash etc
You are supposed to have the flex fuel sensor on the return line man Its cuz it restricts flow so you dont want it on the feed line Thats why they are always on the return cuz there you dont need to bother of the flow
Dude i had a problem with that Barricade hose- Not sure why but the inside (using regular fuel) made the inside of the hose turn to mush- i have a pic somewhere here i remember posting on bimmerforums a few years back. Not sure if it was a bad batch but the black stuff from that hose on your hands made me think of that exact experience.
I wonder why a oil restrictor made the smoking worse? Hmmm. Had the same issue with an eBay turbo. I just relaxed the turbine seal. Hope it fixed the issue.
I do agree with your boost creep theory at the end, i did encounter the same problem, without muffler with a straight pipe basically, low-end torque wasn't there , but it did pull hard when i was at high rpm's. When i put the mufflers back, i had a better spool, low-end torque and a consistent boost all the way through the red line but it didn't have that narrow high boost like when fully deleted . That's very odd imo
It makes a lot of sense actually. Exhaust gasses take the path of least resistance. If the turbo housing (or other part of your exhaust) is restrictive then the path of least resistance is towards the wastegate, with the system being free of restrictions, then the wastegate might not be the path of least resistance anymore so it'll just make more boost because the gases will flow through the turbo instead. That being said on a turbo car freer flowing exhaust means better power and torque everywhere (because you don't care about scavenging like on na), so if you felt your low end was worse, if anything that's probably just your tune being off and not made for the freer flowing exhaust.
while tuning my car smoked lil bit more then yours and the issue was with the catch can, then i went straight to atmospheric and the problem was gone. it was a tip from my turbo supplier after that he laughed and said its a BMW, not a Honda XD
Interesting - I have an M52B28, S257 with a .82 AR T3, screamer pipe, basically have the same Rapidspool manifold and Vibrant res/muffler you used to ruin. I always had boost creep, can't seem to get it below 14psi. I blocked off the WG port on the manifold and welded the gate to the turbine housing to try to make it better. I also thought about dropping to a .63 to spool faster, but maybe that would fix the boost creep. Would be interesting to have a final number for the RPM difference in spool.
Wow thats nuts we almost have an identical setup. I run a SPA manifold with borgwarner s257sxe .82 but i have zero boost creep. I run a tial 44mm wastegate on a relocation pipe. It runs 9PSI all day long. Ive run as low as 4PSI. It loves it. Maybe you can try dual 38mm gates or a 44mm gate off the turbo. I also have a 3in straight pipe and open screamer
Tip , ensure the fitting on the oil return at the sump is as high as possible as if you drain into the sump against oil it can back up in the pipe and cause pressure against the turbo bushings pushing oil past the bushing and rings especially when not in boost and exhaust pressure is low.What oil are you using , it must have good anti foaming qualities , found castrol edge to be good for turbo builds...
Where you had to fix the threads on the manifold and use a nut and bolt could you not put the bolt in the bottom and weld it to the turbo flange on the manifold? Now Personally I wouldn’t take it all back apart just to do that but next time you have the manifold off it wouldn’t hurt it
Love the vids and will be using this as reference when I turbo my e36. But could you do a video on valve stem seals? Like on a old head maybe just take ‘em out and put ‘em back in just to see if it can be done at home?
I may be late to the party, and forgive me if someone already mentioned, but if you have some open face ratchets with the flex head, you wouldn’t such have a hard time reaching that bold on the bottom of the flange.
any idea oh how to help over boosting ? i have an s50 e30 turbo with a 6266 precision ball bearing and it’s overboosting to 12 psi and i have a 5 psi spring on ethanol
Its all about manifod design. You can cheat and get a bigger exhaust housing. More flow should creep less. Or weld wastegate onto turbine housing aussie style. I use a SPA manifold with 44mm gate and everything is fine
That smoke issue looks allot like my N52 smoke issue.. replaced everything on mine, but its most likely the oil scraper thats clogged with carbon. Or broken. But I dont think our problems would allign since you rebuild is from scratch
You need a big catch can set up to let the pressure out of the crank case. That cap he got, v.w. makes a similar oil breather for the 1.8 tdi. Its like 20$ and takes a 3/4 inch hose (20mm ?) Fits a bmw oil cap hole. Fwiw The crank case pressure can pressurize your turbo through the oil drain and cause smoke. (Imo the real reason he fixed the smoke issue in this video ) if you have a stock ccv , it needs a one way valve or better yet , delete it.
@@drewdavis239 The N52 does not have a turbo tho. Its a 2,5L NA inline 6. Also has a build in oil seperator that I have replaced allready. The seperator litterly reuses the pressure to go back into the manifold and the oil thats in the air back into the oil pan
Harbor freight isn't your friend for tools there's way better options for tools you won't get anywhere else then a tool truck or 3. Yes they are more expensive but the specialty tools that are available make your life so much more easy
you should reach out to pulsarturbo for a new turbo, i have had many good experieces with their turbos on my own and customer cars (i tune cars for a living)
Usually you put the flex fuel sensor on the return in order to prevent any kind of restriction being on the feed side. Probably won't have an issue but that's how I've always done it.
Restriction after and before feed is both very important. If your flex fuel is not restricting the pressure/flow coming in the fuel pressure regulator, it wont make a difference. On paper.
Such a good video once again. Informational, fun, relaxed. Love your vibe! I always make time in my day to watch your videos when I get the notification
I wish this project never ends so I could watch more content on this E30 turbo build. Im not a big fan of Miata videos. :) Keep up Joel.
Just found your channel, the content so far is sick. Been looking for another channel like this.
clean mustache, clean BMW.
😂
Just got home from work I got me some pizza and twisted teas and Joel posted damn bruh I’m living lavish tonight 😂
noo waayy, new video! I'm glad to see you uploaded new video again, 40 minutes! Watched always you content and you do quality, like for real! This e30 sounds sick and pulls are so crazy.
Hi Joel.
I had boost creep on my Saab b204 when I replaced the old factory 2.25 exhaust system to a full 3 inch free flow one. Old system 12 psi, new one should be the same boost but around 5k rpm started to raise to 22 psi . Straight away hard fuel cut because of the 2.5 bar map sensor so quick test of the seat belts en route. ... I had to enlarge the wastegate flap port via a die grinder. No more boost creep.
I didn't change the turbine housing but changed the whole turbo for a bigger one and it spooled almost the same time as the smaller one probably couse the 3 inch exhaust flows much more freely I guess. Now with a remap steady 20 psi from 3K rpm till redline.
Love your videos and all the best with the build.
Bal
I had my E30 throttle cable held on with zip ties on both ends for years before giving in and replacing it. Haha. Love the channel Joel.
I’m just gonna hit like right away, I know this is gonna be sick
25:13 earth's also are used by the ecu to activate things and when they are off will drop to earth too. Need to test with ignition on and off.
I have the same booster/throttle body/cable setup on my car and I got a universal throttle cable end from Autozone and shortened the cable a little using that. It allowed me to adjust the elbow to be between the brake lines
The car sounds amazing at the end of the video!
We need a playlist just for the m30, from when you got the car, door dash, and all its upgrades and problems in order
Yup!
bro i remember watching since before his engine blew. its now on a built motor and running again. its so crazy to watch this go down, a playlist would be sooo nice for when its running smoother and he takes it out to events or doordash etc
You are supposed to have the flex fuel sensor on the return line man
Its cuz it restricts flow so you dont want it on the feed line
Thats why they are always on the return cuz there you dont need to bother of the flow
Best thing to wake up to after a nap, lets gooooo 🔥
dude wtf that oil cap breather is dope
Dude i had a problem with that Barricade hose- Not sure why but the inside (using regular fuel) made the inside of the hose turn to mush- i have a pic somewhere here i remember posting on bimmerforums a few years back. Not sure if it was a bad batch but the black stuff from that hose on your hands made me think of that exact experience.
Please make a driving video of the car. No talking, just the sound of the car. It sounds so good!
Joel great video brotha!! You NEED to swap the flex fuel sensor to your return fuel line. Having the sensor on the feed size will cause a restriction.
I wonder why a oil restrictor made the smoking worse? Hmmm. Had the same issue with an eBay turbo. I just relaxed the turbine seal. Hope it fixed the issue.
the oil is squirting in at a higher pressure
Loved this video
I do agree with your boost creep theory at the end, i did encounter the same problem, without muffler with a straight pipe basically, low-end torque wasn't there , but it did pull hard when i was at high rpm's. When i put the mufflers back, i had a better spool, low-end torque and a consistent boost all the way through the red line but it didn't have that narrow high boost like when fully deleted . That's very odd imo
It makes a lot of sense actually. Exhaust gasses take the path of least resistance. If the turbo housing (or other part of your exhaust) is restrictive then the path of least resistance is towards the wastegate, with the system being free of restrictions, then the wastegate might not be the path of least resistance anymore so it'll just make more boost because the gases will flow through the turbo instead. That being said on a turbo car freer flowing exhaust means better power and torque everywhere (because you don't care about scavenging like on na), so if you felt your low end was worse, if anything that's probably just your tune being off and not made for the freer flowing exhaust.
while tuning my car smoked lil bit more then yours and the issue was with the catch can, then i went straight to atmospheric and the problem was gone. it was a tip from my turbo supplier after that he laughed and said its a BMW, not a Honda XD
Nice! I got an upgraded back housing on my gt35 also, haven't ran the car yet but it made 380 at 11psi before. S50b30us
Interesting - I have an M52B28, S257 with a .82 AR T3, screamer pipe, basically have the same Rapidspool manifold and Vibrant res/muffler you used to ruin. I always had boost creep, can't seem to get it below 14psi. I blocked off the WG port on the manifold and welded the gate to the turbine housing to try to make it better.
I also thought about dropping to a .63 to spool faster, but maybe that would fix the boost creep. Would be interesting to have a final number for the RPM difference in spool.
Wow thats nuts we almost have an identical setup. I run a SPA manifold with borgwarner s257sxe .82 but i have zero boost creep. I run a tial 44mm wastegate on a relocation pipe. It runs 9PSI all day long. Ive run as low as 4PSI. It loves it. Maybe you can try dual 38mm gates or a 44mm gate off the turbo. I also have a 3in straight pipe and open screamer
Mom wake up! Joel posted a new video!!
Tip , ensure the fitting on the oil return at the sump is as high as possible as if you drain into the sump against oil it can back up in the pipe and cause pressure against the turbo bushings pushing oil past the bushing and rings especially when not in boost and exhaust pressure is low.What oil are you using , it must have good anti foaming qualities , found castrol edge to be good for turbo builds...
Where you had to fix the threads on the manifold and use a nut and bolt could you not put the bolt in the bottom and weld it to the turbo flange on the manifold? Now Personally I wouldn’t take it all back apart just to do that but next time you have the manifold off it wouldn’t hurt it
Hi Joel!
What a sick build u have!
Sounds so amazing.
Do you have list of parts you used in this build? I would be grateful.
Greetings from Croatia. ✌
Its spooling the exact same most likely because it was leaking from that front bolt on the .63 housing etc.
Love the vids and will be using this as reference when I turbo my e36. But could you do a video on valve stem seals? Like on a old head maybe just take ‘em out and put ‘em back in just to see if it can be done at home?
damn bro listening to california world, love it
why dont you put the turbo drain on the other side of the manifold? running along the strut tower?
AN fittings would help with the drain situation?
Very good noises
What breather is that? I have seen cheep ones of that style and a more expensive option.
So what n a dual ball bearing turbo you don’t have to use both water and oil for cooling?
Put the drain on wheel side.
Why must it gou down the block exhaust side??
What type of screws you recommend instead of using Home Depot ones ?
Stubby wrenches are life savers
I may be late to the party, and forgive me if someone already mentioned, but if you have some open face ratchets with the flex head, you wouldn’t such have a hard time reaching that bold on the bottom of the flange.
🔥
invest in some ratcheting flex head mountain wrenches theyre pretty clutch sometimes
Wtf bro look at that thing go that's crazy sound amazing though . Nice 😮
And do you have any parts laying around that I can use for my 1992 BMW 735i cause I see you working some different BMW on your videos
Hi....I like your car content....but engine management system is that you using.....it looks very decent ?
What drain is that I have the same turbo
Hey, what brake vacuum do you use?
Have u ever tried oil catch pan ? 🙂
Do you have a link to the housing you used?
Hi, wich ecu do you are using...?
Hey! I have exact same turbine in 4.4L V8 in my e30 :D would like to change exhaust housing too, could You link me up where did You buy it ? :) Thanks
Would that breather cap fit on a stock bmw m20 Valve cover?
make a video on how to use a multimeter for cars!
What transmission are u running
Jes Drilling great idee but that Exhaust heat wrap itsh heavy for days
any idea oh how to help over boosting ? i have an s50 e30 turbo with a 6266 precision ball bearing and it’s overboosting to 12 psi and i have a 5 psi spring on ethanol
Its all about manifod design. You can cheat and get a bigger exhaust housing. More flow should creep less. Or weld wastegate onto turbine housing aussie style. I use a SPA manifold with 44mm gate and everything is fine
Does that turbo use antifreeze? can be used like this without antifreeze?
Its an oilcooled turbo.
Crows foot wrench brotha
After watching the full video I realized you got them lol
You must connect the water to the CHRA
what suspension you running bro
idk how u feel about motorcycles bro but ik me and plenty others would love some bike content
damn bro f the yt algo, recommending me this a week later
I shouldn’t have laughed so hard about the Home Depot bolts being so ____ 😂
That smoke issue looks allot like my N52 smoke issue.. replaced everything on mine, but its most likely the oil scraper thats clogged with carbon. Or broken. But I dont think our problems would allign since you rebuild is from scratch
@@n54action 2005 but yes, euro spec
You need a big catch can set up to let the pressure out of the crank case. That cap he got, v.w. makes a similar oil breather for the 1.8 tdi. Its like 20$ and takes a 3/4 inch hose (20mm ?) Fits a bmw oil cap hole. Fwiw The crank case pressure can pressurize your turbo through the oil drain and cause smoke. (Imo the real reason he fixed the smoke issue in this video ) if you have a stock ccv , it needs a one way valve or better yet , delete it.
@@drewdavis239 The N52 does not have a turbo tho. Its a 2,5L NA inline 6. Also has a build in oil seperator that I have replaced allready. The seperator litterly reuses the pressure to go back into the manifold and the oil thats in the air back into the oil pan
You play CarX drift? I saw someone with your name and same M50
"mobile chicane" 😂
bro will do anything but weld a new flange to his manifold to fix the angle
31:28 AHAHAHAHHA 🤣
lez go pre notif gang
Harbor freight isn't your friend for tools there's way better options for tools you won't get anywhere else then a tool truck or 3. Yes they are more expensive but the specialty tools that are available make your life so much more easy
Let’s gooooo
Hi joel I have a turbo mainfold
Just like yours Does it fit a e30 and e34
(M50 engine ) reply if u can
Чувак слив масла долден быть строго в низ ! Поставь нормально картридж турбины и будет счастье 😂
Nice, put a lot of work into the car fr. Time and money but it sounds great. Need like 20 minutes just driving car noise only.
ngl it sounds like a RB25 lmao
How can you accurately compare them without having the engine mapped for each one? Doesn't make sense
You should get a turbo made in USA
Need a new video asap…. TH-cam getting boring
You need to up your tool game your struggling way too much with things that you shouldn't be.
1st
First
you should reach out to pulsarturbo for a new turbo, i have had many good experieces with their turbos on my own and customer cars (i tune cars for a living)