AWESOME SERIES!! Been modeling boxes for quite some time and up till now only built Aeroport Ported bass reflex - no bandpass. I am watching all the 6th order videos on youtube before diving in and building mine out- your series has the most content and troubleshooting!! I appreciate it
Thanks :) I really should make a follow-up video on the build. Since the completion of the box, I have learned a lot of things about 6th order design. If you have any questions regarding the design process, feel free to contact me through email
I like your choices to used in your build i have purchased a few of the taramps ,brand my self . I have had interest in the ground zero subs as i have research they have very good quality.
At the time of purchase in my opinion, GZ drivers had the best price/performance from sortiment I had available. They have some issues, like weak motor and a bit optimistic power rating but if you keep this in mind when listening to your subwoofer, GZ should last a long time
Look into getting a single, much more powerful 15" or even 12" sub, and then build an 8th-order bandpass for it. Even more bandwidth and musicality, plus with the meaner sub, it'll get even louder. Also, look into Hornresp for different modeling software. I've heard it does better when it comes to bandpass enclosures.
Goodness, that -3 db slope at 120hz is scary (12:28)... I seriously hope that your crossover(s) are set below 120hz at as steep of a slope as possible! Subs aren't typically intended to be playing frequencies that high... Question though: Aside from just the sheer mass of the enclosure, was there a reason why you went with such a big box? I'm getting 120+dbs from a (one sub) box that's under 5 ft^3 of volume, and I gotta imagine yours is well over that!
I totally agree about the high frequency reproduction, even more so when talking about car audio subs. I have now set the lowpass on 90Hz but I would like to be even lower arround 70 or 80Hz. 90 is the lowest the amp lets me, eventually I'm planning to ad a DSP to the system to tune it more precisely. The volume is a result of 2 main considerations - 1) Hoffman's Iron Law. In short, to get good bass extension and high efficiency (less power added to subs to get the same output) you have to have a large enclosure. As I did not have a huge budget, I had to limit gear costs and just make the box bigger. 2) 6th order design in essence is 2 boxes bolted together. This increases the final box volume considerably. At the moment the box is 11ft^3 but I could get away with 6 to 8ft^3 if it was a vented bass reflex configuration. I need to finalize my electrical system for some maximum SPL measurements, so at the moment I do not know, how loud the build is. But I'm hoping to be above 145db
@@KarlisZalitis Hey, me again... So, I've taken the liberty of spec-ing out your subs, and (while I love the sound curve on them), the sheer size of the enclosure is probably doing them more harm then good. While Hoffman's Iron Law does state that breathing area helps gain more efficiency, there's tradeoffs. When an enclosure is too big, you're forcing your drivers to fight the movement of the air inside against its' own force. Keep in mind that the concept of a port isn't unlike that of a pump; in that with one motion, there's displacement, and the opposite motion will be opposite displacement. That said, when the driver extends, it's sucking air in, and when it retracts, it pushes it out, and with a sub moving literally hundreds of times per minute, you want optimal flow of air so you're neither suffocating/compressing the sub's ability to breath or instigating chuffing by moving too much air for the size of the port. This is why aseparate
Hey! Thank you for the additional feedback! Someone correct me if I'm wrong but a speaker driver is NOT a pump! Rather, it is a pressure difference generator, increasing and decreasing the pressure in order to create longitudinal waves in a compressible medium, in this case - air. The subwoofer box internal air volume acts like a spring - the greater the volume, the less is the force needed to compress this ''spring'', edge case being an open baffle placement. In other words, small box - big resistance - little excursion, big box - small resistance - greater excursion. So in my case, where I am having some issues with hot coils, the box size is beneficial for better cooling. Another thing entirely is the port and cabin loading - due to 6th or higher order design, there are more excursion drops at corresponding port tuning points, when comparing to simple vented design, causing under-excursion. And the cabin loading makes things only worse, additionally ''holding'' the speaker cone. I plan to do a test, where I apply same power to the subwoofer, where the box is in car and when it's outside, to see the coil temperature differences. But I am still working on the temperature gauge for the woofer coils to test this.
Did you ever get to upgrade to the deepcycle batteries? I'm really intrigued, always wondered how they would work in car audio, but nobody seems to use them
Hey :) I ended up using ordinary 100Ah car batteries - 3 of them. Mostly due to cost, it's an absolute budget build. For now everything seems to work fine, the batteries are holding up to abuse, no apparent loss of capacity has been observed. I still have some voltage drop issues, might add two additional batteries
Im thinking your build size would be almost perfect for 12 inch drivers! I’ve got two skar ddx2 dual 2 ohm voice coil 12 inch subs and a 2500 watt skar skv2 amp plan on putting it in my 4Runner I’m working on putting a 220 amp GM delco alternator and have to make the mounts to place it on the front of the motor just got lucky used a old water pump pulley turned around backwards off my harmonic balancer so I have added another battery both designated just to the amp this way I won’t have any issues to the 4Runner it self lights dimming at night time and that excessive load on all the original equipment isnt good running on low voltage I’ll have to add a volt meter in with this also that way I can see if it drops or stays steady I e did this more than once I had 2. 12 inch pioneers in a 3 cubic feet box with a Rockford fosgate punch 200 when they first came out in the mid 90s they had just discontinued the 45, 75, and 150 models I’m running the skars in my garage system in a make shift no math just throw together old house speaker box scraps with 1/4 luan over it and a Rockville concert 10,000 watt amp and no I haven’t ever turn it past 1/3 of the way they definitely couldn’t handle it it’s a beast enjoy your channel man bass heads around the world I never dreamed it would go as far as it has you always think it’s just a trend or passing phase wrong we’re still phasing out really like the CNC machine that’s really cool have a great day or night we’re ever you are and boom on !
You did an outstanding job on the enclosure, but the taramps smart 3 is the problem. That Anne struggles between Lowe's to meds on base it doesn't transition smoothly so the cancellation you here is due to that amplifier
Thanks, I'm quite happy with the box too :) About the amp - it could be possible I quess. When it gets warmer I'm planning to do some high power tests with pro audio amplifiers to see if there is any difference
Try to build bandpass 4th order. Takes up less volume, the subwoofer control is higher.Sealed box qtc=0.707 is +0 gain dB if qtc=1 gain +6 db but frequency response much more higher. You must build Rectangular port or pipe out side the box. it's give you fast change tunings frequency. I calculated in hornresp bp4 for 2 subs gzrw15, sealed box volume is 150l, reflex box is 90l tuning frequency 45-47 hertz. Compare bp4 and bp6 tell us your opinion.
One of my first builds was a 4th order - had a great output, but it was a one note wonder - 40hz for the win :D I prefer 6th order over a 4th all the time - the extra bandwidth comes in handy when listening to some rock music or other non-sine based melodies. I am considering to try out the tapped horn design, but my Hornresp modeling skills are not so good to make a usable design - have to read and learn some more
@@KarlisZalitis The most popular mistakes in bp 4 one note, because calculated is not correct. and people who are disappointed say that it is bad, it hums on a single note. I have flat response 25-50 hertz.
Great question! There are several reasons: 1) At my location I have easy access to Baltic birch plywood and it is cheap; 2) Birch Plywood is more resistant to moisture; 3) Birch Plywood is more rigid and lighter than MDF, although it is more acoustically active (hence the ringing); 4) When working with MDF it produces nasty sawdust that I do not have the means and will to deal with
@@KarlisZalitis excellent! Back in the day late 80's I used to build boxes for car audio competitions. Then it was about the watts. Some understood the science and had fun with 6th order boxes. You might want to consider puting some solid wood 2x2's from one wall to another to reduce ringing and avoid possible future rattles. The trick is don't mount each end in the same spot on the other side. Triangles are your friend and avoid in the middle on the 1/4 or on the 1/3rds of a wall or you could create a natural harmonic. Random is your friend :) oh and the response difference in where your sitting may be from wave cancelation. If you added blankets hanging as a test in different areas like water baffles in a water tank.
Good stuff, thanks for the info! Yeah, like you said, my fear also is that the weirdness in bass response is due to cancelation. I might try to put the box in the trunk sideways, see what changes
MDF has its use cases too - it is acoustically "dead" and helps reduce unwanted distortion, albeit this would be important more in home and hifi audio applications
the third hump might come from the ports facing the trunk door so close. it is possible that its not an 8th Order with a peak at 40 Hz. Try swwitching ports to front and measure again.
Hey! The third hump was measured in half space environment, outside the car. So any additional loading of the box did not take place, when the third hump was seen. Maybe it is port compression, but the SPL when measuring, was quite low..
Nice work and appreciate the follow up. Many TH-camrs will show a build but never follow up and describe problems and fixes.
Thanks :)
AWESOME SERIES!! Been modeling boxes for quite some time and up till now only built Aeroport Ported bass reflex - no bandpass. I am watching all the 6th order videos on youtube before diving in and building mine out- your series has the most content and troubleshooting!! I appreciate it
Thanks :) I really should make a follow-up video on the build. Since the completion of the box, I have learned a lot of things about 6th order design. If you have any questions regarding the design process, feel free to contact me through email
@@KarlisZalitis what's your email
It's kzdesignlv@gmail.com
I like your choices to used in your build i have purchased a few of the taramps ,brand my self . I have had interest in the ground zero subs as i have research they have very good quality.
At the time of purchase in my opinion, GZ drivers had the best price/performance from sortiment I had available. They have some issues, like weak motor and a bit optimistic power rating but if you keep this in mind when listening to your subwoofer, GZ should last a long time
Beautiful build 10/10
Thanks bro ☺️
Nice bruh🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🤘🏿
nice build!
Thanks :)
Ļoti mūzikāls projekts, malacis!
Paldies! :)
Look into getting a single, much more powerful 15" or even 12" sub, and then build an 8th-order bandpass for it. Even more bandwidth and musicality, plus with the meaner sub, it'll get even louder. Also, look into Hornresp for different modeling software. I've heard it does better when it comes to bandpass enclosures.
Goodness, that -3 db slope at 120hz is scary (12:28)... I seriously hope that your crossover(s) are set below 120hz at as steep of a slope as possible! Subs aren't typically intended to be playing frequencies that high...
Question though: Aside from just the sheer mass of the enclosure, was there a reason why you went with such a big box? I'm getting 120+dbs from a (one sub) box that's under 5 ft^3 of volume, and I gotta imagine yours is well over that!
I totally agree about the high frequency reproduction, even more so when talking about car audio subs. I have now set the lowpass on 90Hz but I would like to be even lower arround 70 or 80Hz. 90 is the lowest the amp lets me, eventually I'm planning to ad a DSP to the system to tune it more precisely.
The volume is a result of 2 main considerations - 1) Hoffman's Iron Law. In short, to get good bass extension and high efficiency (less power added to subs to get the same output) you have to have a large enclosure. As I did not have a huge budget, I had to limit gear costs and just make the box bigger. 2) 6th order design in essence is 2 boxes bolted together. This increases the final box volume considerably. At the moment the box is 11ft^3 but I could get away with 6 to 8ft^3 if it was a vented bass reflex configuration.
I need to finalize my electrical system for some maximum SPL measurements, so at the moment I do not know, how loud the build is. But I'm hoping to be above 145db
@@KarlisZalitis
Hey, me again...
So, I've taken the liberty of spec-ing out your subs, and (while I love the sound curve on them), the sheer size of the enclosure is probably doing them more harm then good. While Hoffman's Iron Law does state that breathing area helps gain more efficiency, there's tradeoffs. When an enclosure is too big, you're forcing your drivers to fight the movement of the air inside against its' own force. Keep in mind that the concept of a port isn't unlike that of a pump; in that with one motion, there's displacement, and the opposite motion will be opposite displacement. That said, when the driver extends, it's sucking air in, and when it retracts, it pushes it out, and with a sub moving literally hundreds of times per minute, you want optimal flow of air so you're neither suffocating/compressing the sub's ability to breath or instigating chuffing by moving too much air for the size of the port. This is why aseparate
Hey! Thank you for the additional feedback! Someone correct me if I'm wrong but a speaker driver is NOT a pump! Rather, it is a pressure difference generator, increasing and decreasing the pressure in order to create longitudinal waves in a compressible medium, in this case - air. The subwoofer box internal air volume acts like a spring - the greater the volume, the less is the force needed to compress this ''spring'', edge case being an open baffle placement. In other words, small box - big resistance - little excursion, big box - small resistance - greater excursion. So in my case, where I am having some issues with hot coils, the box size is beneficial for better cooling. Another thing entirely is the port and cabin loading - due to 6th or higher order design, there are more excursion drops at corresponding port tuning points, when comparing to simple vented design, causing under-excursion. And the cabin loading makes things only worse, additionally ''holding'' the speaker cone. I plan to do a test, where I apply same power to the subwoofer, where the box is in car and when it's outside, to see the coil temperature differences. But I am still working on the temperature gauge for the woofer coils to test this.
@@KarlisZalitis
Hey, I'll write an actual response later (when I'm off of work), but for the time being; are you familiar with WinISD?
Show vid of breaking them in
If you prefer, there are some videos I made about breaking in my GZ drivers :)
Did you ever get to upgrade to the deepcycle batteries? I'm really intrigued, always wondered how they would work in car audio, but nobody seems to use them
Hey :) I ended up using ordinary 100Ah car batteries - 3 of them. Mostly due to cost, it's an absolute budget build. For now everything seems to work fine, the batteries are holding up to abuse, no apparent loss of capacity has been observed. I still have some voltage drop issues, might add two additional batteries
@@KarlisZalitis oh😢
Im thinking your build size would be almost perfect for 12 inch drivers! I’ve got two skar ddx2 dual 2 ohm voice coil 12 inch subs and a 2500 watt skar skv2 amp plan on putting it in my 4Runner I’m working on putting a 220 amp GM delco alternator and have to make the mounts to place it on the front of the motor just got lucky used a old water pump pulley turned around backwards off my harmonic balancer so I have added another battery both designated just to the amp this way I won’t have any issues to the 4Runner it self lights dimming at night time and that excessive load on all the original equipment isnt good running on low voltage I’ll have to add a volt meter in with this also that way I can see if it drops or stays steady I e did this more than once I had 2. 12 inch pioneers in a 3 cubic feet box with a Rockford fosgate punch 200 when they first came out in the mid 90s they had just discontinued the 45, 75, and 150 models I’m running the skars in my garage system in a make shift no math just throw together old house speaker box scraps with 1/4 luan over it and a Rockville concert 10,000 watt amp and no I haven’t ever turn it past 1/3 of the way they definitely couldn’t handle it it’s a beast enjoy your channel man bass heads around the world I never dreamed it would go as far as it has you always think it’s just a trend or passing phase wrong we’re still phasing out really like the CNC machine that’s really cool have a great day or night we’re ever you are and boom on !
Basshead for life! 😎
Awesome!!!
Nice man,i have one 12 inch edge subwoofer (edx12d2spl-e7) 5k rms and i don't know how to build the 6th😑
That is some serious driver! I bet you can get some serious SPL number out of it
You did an outstanding job on the enclosure, but the taramps smart 3 is the problem. That Anne struggles between Lowe's to meds on base it doesn't transition smoothly so the cancellation you here is due to that amplifier
Thanks, I'm quite happy with the box too :)
About the amp - it could be possible I quess. When it gets warmer I'm planning to do some high power tests with pro audio amplifiers to see if there is any difference
Try to build bandpass 4th order. Takes up less volume, the subwoofer control is higher.Sealed box qtc=0.707 is +0 gain dB if qtc=1 gain +6 db but frequency response much more higher. You must build Rectangular port or pipe out side the box. it's give you fast change tunings frequency. I calculated in hornresp bp4 for 2 subs gzrw15, sealed box volume is 150l, reflex box is 90l tuning frequency 45-47 hertz. Compare bp4 and bp6 tell us your opinion.
One of my first builds was a 4th order - had a great output, but it was a one note wonder - 40hz for the win :D I prefer 6th order over a 4th all the time - the extra bandwidth comes in handy when listening to some rock music or other non-sine based melodies. I am considering to try out the tapped horn design, but my Hornresp modeling skills are not so good to make a usable design - have to read and learn some more
@@KarlisZalitis The most popular mistakes in bp 4 one note, because calculated is not correct. and people who are disappointed say that it is bad, it hums on a single note. I have flat response 25-50 hertz.
@@customsoundsolutions2393 Im a huge 6th order fan but would love to see some 4th order builds- got any vids of yours?
You may have covered this question but why ply instead of MDF?
Great question! There are several reasons:
1) At my location I have easy access to Baltic birch plywood and it is cheap;
2) Birch Plywood is more resistant to moisture;
3) Birch Plywood is more rigid and lighter than MDF, although it is more acoustically active (hence the ringing);
4) When working with MDF it produces nasty sawdust that I do not have the means and will to deal with
@@KarlisZalitis excellent! Back in the day late 80's I used to build boxes for car audio competitions. Then it was about the watts. Some understood the science and had fun with 6th order boxes. You might want to consider puting some solid wood 2x2's from one wall to another to reduce ringing and avoid possible future rattles. The trick is don't mount each end in the same spot on the other side. Triangles are your friend and avoid in the middle on the 1/4 or on the 1/3rds of a wall or you could create a natural harmonic. Random is your friend :) oh and the response difference in where your sitting may be from wave cancelation. If you added blankets hanging as a test in different areas like water baffles in a water tank.
Good stuff, thanks for the info! Yeah, like you said, my fear also is that the weirdness in bass response is due to cancelation. I might try to put the box in the trunk sideways, see what changes
No sane person uses mdf 😂 Just one step up from cardboard...
MDF has its use cases too - it is acoustically "dead" and helps reduce unwanted distortion, albeit this would be important more in home and hifi audio applications
the third hump might come from the ports facing the trunk door so close. it is possible that its not an 8th Order with a peak at 40 Hz. Try swwitching ports to front and measure again.
Hey! The third hump was measured in half space environment, outside the car. So any additional loading of the box did not take place, when the third hump was seen. Maybe it is port compression, but the SPL when measuring, was quite low..
You need to turn the low pass at least 3/4 because the amp dampening is sharp. Control with your head unit to tune it. Common mistake with this amp
Hmm interesting! Could this be that cause for my hot voice coils?
Just subscribe 🤘🏿
Those full bridge amplifiers are not the best for subwoofers.
Full bridge doesn’t matter. It’s low quality design and components that matter. A full bridge is just 2 half bridges strapped together.