Your story reminds me of how the kingdom was lost for the want of a nail. Changing the bolt every time you change the impeller (annually) is a great idea. It's possible that the bolt was weakened over time due to dezincification.
Somebody else made that exact same comment to us about the horse and the nail 👍 I too suspect galvanic corrosion or dezincification. It is a pain to have yet another thing to keep watch on though ....
@@SailingYachtSaltyLass a trick you can try in the future, support the part, and using a (not your best) flat head screwdriver, try lining it up this the centre of the broken bolt, and give it a wack, 50% of the time it’s enough to loosen it so you can simply unscrew it like a std screw.. the theory being, as the bolt was tightened it stretches ever so slightly, (the reason we don’t use extensions when torquing cylinder head bolts (yes we use a tension wrench) but as we become super experienced we also know by feel if a bolt has been pre stretched as in used before, meaning we May increase the newton meters force ever so slightly, like star wars 😂 we tend to use the force rather than a pre-set amounts, with an extension we can’t as we extension twists every so slightly, which is perfectly fine because my workmanship especially on engines carried a 5 year 100,000 kms warranty, so if i made an error i paid) so when the head finally snapped off, it generally will retract that slight amount, meaning it’s not really in there very tight.. why your drill worked the force of the drill trying to cut, actually turned it fully through, but say there isn’t a fully through? That’s where my old school mechanic trick may work and surprise you.. just a tip.. i know you are both very capable ladies!
@@trevhedges - That is a great tip! Thank you. And it may work very well with a steel screwdriver against brass/bronze as they are much softer than steel. It would willingly sacrifice a screwdriver if it fixed the problem 😄
Nice job fixing the problem, and figuring out a solution for the next time it happens. After a few more years you will probably find you need to raise the waterline because of all the spares you carry :)
Actually, that is already a problem. The boat was coppercoated by the previous owners and they did it with the boat empty when they marked the waterline. Now we own the boat the top of the coppercoat is a couple of centimetres under water 😮 so we have a strip of Seajet90 non-ablative antifoul for the waterline ...
It’s crazy how one tiny little thing can make all the difference to your cruising experience! It’s also interesting that after a while you know everything there is to know about your boat and when something sounds different.
I have an MD2020 from Volvo Penta as well - very simillar (if not the same).... Funnily enough the same happened to me 3 years ago. It happened in Peel on a trip. Fixed it with a random screw and retap borrowed from the boat club there whith a blob of an epoxy (for galvanics) from Lidl and its been there ever since. (I always carry a few tubes on the boat). Lidl were also selling small metric tap sets a few weeks ago that might be handy to have onboard. The screw doesnt come in the impellor service pack, but if memory serves its the same as the 6 that hold on the rubbing plate (which you might use in a pinch). I would advise a stopcock on the intake, though. Its a simple addon for safety and I think its required under CE 2003/44/EC rules these days. (from SV Iris of Glenarm)
We have the replacement screw/bolts now which we resized ourselves but I will keep an eye out for metric taps in Lidl. We do have a stopcock for the impeller, but it is on the other side of the engine near the saildrive and runs up through a strainer before entering the impeller unit.
Feel your pain had pump fail on friends boat, ended up using small electric pump in bucket of water to feed the engine whilst the bucket was refilled using the roving gusher bilge pump it’s surprising how much water passes through the engine to cool it
Great that you were able to fix it yourselves. Many would throw their hands up and call the Volvo dealer. Given enough time with no raw water cooling the engine may seize. But before then you'd have steaming coolant blowing out the pressure cap and the rubber exhaust pipe would probably be on fire without a steady stream of salt water. But I'll see your leaking raw water pump and raise you a leaking heads Y valve :) My next opportunity:)
Well that was a screwy episode 🤗. Where I am, on the Great Lakes, Georgian Bay - we call the east side hard water. That’s because of all the rocks! Like you, Engine checks and being aware of physical changes, ie sound, speed etc is key. I happen to be going to my Volvo dealer today and will see if there are spares or screw kit available for my backup inventory. I’ll also include this little screw in my inspection routine. A great episode- thank you!🇨🇦
If this episode makes people aware of this problem then it is a "Job well done" If they do not sell the bolt separate from the cam plate (Volvo!!!) then it might be worth taking it out when you next do the impeller and measuring it up and making your own spares. That is what we have done. We will likely replace this bolt every year when we do the impeller. BTW - love the definition of "hard water" 😄
Can't believe volvo would design or use a pump like that on their engines tbh. I've got a yanmar 20hp engine in mine with a Johnson pump fitted as standard. My pump doesn't have a separate shim held in with a screw like yours, it's actually been machined into the pump itself. So nothing to break or leak. Glad you fixed it and also a cheap fix too for you 😀
We always thought the that cam plate was integral to the pump. Our old unit was a Johnson but we replaced it recently when the seals failed and there was wear on the shaft. We have since bought a pack of bolts and filed them down to the correct size.
Its a jabasco one on most of these volvo pentas. and yes, a bit of a design flaw. The basic design is sound, but they should have used something beefier like an M6 in bronze/brass
This unit is still new. We threw the old one away as the shaft was worn. Just replacing it was an arm and leg experience for the bank account. The thought of two..... 😮
The impeller housing is not even two years old yet. It seems a bit early for anything to fail - certainly very annoying! Having said that I will have a look at the seals kit for this version. Thanks for the idea 👍
Sure.. the having a spare pump ready to go is more for the bearing and/or seals failure scenario.. sometimes conditions are less than optimal, and just replacing the pump is preferable.. 🙂
I have the same pump on my engine and had to replace the shaft seals trying to get that very small serew out and not loose it in the bilge not exactly fun well done ladies
What a terrible design. On the Yanmar engines I've worked on the pumps didn't have that loose plate but completely machined, nothing that can leak or break.
![UNBELIEVABLY CHEAP STEEL Ketch W/ An Interior That'll SHOCK YOU [Full Tour] Learning the Lines](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Bgu9L4wreQE/mqdefault.jpg)
Your story reminds me of how the kingdom was lost for the want of a nail. Changing the bolt every time you change the impeller (annually) is a great idea. It's possible that the bolt was weakened over time due to dezincification.
Somebody else made that exact same comment to us about the horse and the nail 👍 I too suspect galvanic corrosion or dezincification. It is a pain to have yet another thing to keep watch on though ....
Glad you weren't screwed.
I guess we were lucky to have a bolt hole! 😮
I'm sure if I know where this thread is going.@@SailingYachtSaltyLass
Are we being a bit brazen? 😄😄😄 Better than getting brassed-off!
Not a pipe dream then.@@SailingYachtSaltyLass
More like a weapon of brass destruction!
Well done laddies alls well thanks ends well
Yes indeed 👍
Good job Ladies..
Thanks Trev. We felt very pleased with ourselves at getting it fixed at sea
@@SailingYachtSaltyLass a trick you can try in the future, support the part, and using a (not your best) flat head screwdriver, try lining it up this the centre of the broken bolt, and give it a wack, 50% of the time it’s enough to loosen it so you can simply unscrew it like a std screw..
the theory being, as the bolt was tightened it stretches ever so slightly, (the reason we don’t use extensions when torquing cylinder head bolts (yes we use a tension wrench) but as we become super experienced we also know by feel if a bolt has been pre stretched as in used before, meaning we May increase the newton meters force ever so slightly, like star wars 😂 we tend to use the force rather than a pre-set amounts, with an extension we can’t as we extension twists every so slightly, which is perfectly fine because my workmanship especially on engines carried a 5 year 100,000 kms warranty, so if i made an error i paid) so when the head finally snapped off, it generally will retract that slight amount, meaning it’s not really in there very tight.. why your drill worked the force of the drill trying to cut, actually turned it fully through, but say there isn’t a fully through? That’s where my old school mechanic trick may work and surprise you..
just a tip.. i know you are both very capable ladies!
@@trevhedges - That is a great tip! Thank you. And it may work very well with a steel screwdriver against brass/bronze as they are much softer than steel. It would willingly sacrifice a screwdriver if it fixed the problem 😄
Nice job fixing the problem, and figuring out a solution for the next time it happens. After a few more years you will probably find you need to raise the waterline because of all the spares you carry :)
Actually, that is already a problem. The boat was coppercoated by the previous owners and they did it with the boat empty when they marked the waterline. Now we own the boat the top of the coppercoat is a couple of centimetres under water 😮 so we have a strip of Seajet90 non-ablative antifoul for the waterline ...
Good job..
Thank you!
It’s crazy how one tiny little thing can make all the difference to your cruising experience! It’s also interesting that after a while you know everything there is to know about your boat and when something sounds different.
I think that knowing every sound on your boat is an essential skill in sailing. It is probably not appreciated enough as a talent 😄
I have an MD2020 from Volvo Penta as well - very simillar (if not the same).... Funnily enough the same happened to me 3 years ago. It happened in Peel on a trip. Fixed it with a random screw and retap borrowed from the boat club there whith a blob of an epoxy (for galvanics) from Lidl and its been there ever since. (I always carry a few tubes on the boat). Lidl were also selling small metric tap sets a few weeks ago that might be handy to have onboard. The screw doesnt come in the impellor service pack, but if memory serves its the same as the 6 that hold on the rubbing plate (which you might use in a pinch). I would advise a stopcock on the intake, though. Its a simple addon for safety and I think its required under CE 2003/44/EC rules these days. (from SV Iris of Glenarm)
We have the replacement screw/bolts now which we resized ourselves but I will keep an eye out for metric taps in Lidl. We do have a stopcock for the impeller, but it is on the other side of the engine near the saildrive and runs up through a strainer before entering the impeller unit.
Feel your pain had pump fail on friends boat, ended up using small electric pump in bucket of water to feed the engine whilst the bucket was refilled using the roving gusher bilge pump it’s surprising how much water passes through the engine to cool it
There can never be too much water - as long as it goes _through_ the engine 😉
Great that you were able to fix it yourselves. Many would throw their hands up and call the Volvo dealer. Given enough time with no raw water cooling the engine may seize. But before then you'd have steaming coolant blowing out the pressure cap and the rubber exhaust pipe would probably be on fire without a steady stream of salt water.
But I'll see your leaking raw water pump and raise you a leaking heads Y valve :) My next opportunity:)
I love your prognostications of doom and despair 😉 Melting engines and burning boats.... 😄😄😄😄😄 Probably either is better than loo stuff......
Well that was a screwy episode 🤗. Where I am, on the Great Lakes, Georgian Bay - we call the east side hard water. That’s because of all the rocks! Like you, Engine checks and being aware of physical changes, ie sound, speed etc is key. I happen to be going to my Volvo dealer today and will see if there are spares or screw kit available for my backup inventory. I’ll also include this little screw in my inspection routine. A great episode- thank you!🇨🇦
If this episode makes people aware of this problem then it is a "Job well done" If they do not sell the bolt separate from the cam plate (Volvo!!!) then it might be worth taking it out when you next do the impeller and measuring it up and making your own spares. That is what we have done. We will likely replace this bolt every year when we do the impeller.
BTW - love the definition of "hard water" 😄
Careful removing it - the jabasco impellor housing and cam are very soft bronze/brass. If the unit dezincs, it will also be brittle....
Never noticed that before. Could be the age of it
It was (and is) less than 2 years old
Can't believe volvo would design or use a pump like that on their engines tbh. I've got a yanmar 20hp engine in mine with a Johnson pump fitted as standard. My pump doesn't have a separate shim held in with a screw like yours, it's actually been machined into the pump itself. So nothing to break or leak. Glad you fixed it and also a cheap fix too for you 😀
We always thought the that cam plate was integral to the pump. Our old unit was a Johnson but we replaced it recently when the seals failed and there was wear on the shaft. We have since bought a pack of bolts and filed them down to the correct size.
Its a jabasco one on most of these volvo pentas. and yes, a bit of a design flaw. The basic design is sound, but they should have used something beefier like an M6 in bronze/brass
on Pogo we carry a complete raw water pump. its easier to replace the pump at sea and then do repairs at port. still enjoying your videos
This unit is still new. We threw the old one away as the shaft was worn. Just replacing it was an arm and leg experience for the bank account. The thought of two..... 😮
I recon I would learn more from a month with you two than a year at sailing college. 😂
@@paulroberts5677 - there's a sailing college??? 😮But thank you for the kind words 👍
@@SailingYachtSaltyLass Well there are sailing schools, but none as entertaining as you pair (in a BBC) sort of way :-)
Nice one.. a spare pump and rebuild kit on the pondering list? 🙂
The impeller housing is not even two years old yet. It seems a bit early for anything to fail - certainly very annoying! Having said that I will have a look at the seals kit for this version. Thanks for the idea 👍
Sure.. the having a spare pump ready to go is more for the bearing and/or seals failure scenario.. sometimes conditions are less than optimal, and just replacing the pump is preferable.. 🙂
I have the same pump on my engine and had to replace the shaft seals trying to get that very small serew out and not loose it in the bilge not exactly fun well done ladies
It is a terrible design!
I thought you had the 2020d same as me. My engine shuts down all by itself after alerting you with an alarm when it starts overheating.
We do have the 2020D but we have never managed to overheat ours 😉
First timeout bringing it back from Bangor she overheated and cut out.
When the cat’s away 🤣
😄 It needed doing and we will repurpose the old rope for something else.
Do you have a SpeedSeal plate?
Yes we do. It works just fine, it is the rest of the unit that let us down
A bum tucking realisation about the 1 screw is the difference between engine life/death
Bev always expects things to fail. That is why she is so paranoid about keeping them as near perfect as she can.
What a terrible design. On the Yanmar engines I've worked on the pumps didn't have that loose plate but completely machined, nothing that can leak or break.
At least our impeller faces the open unlike many Yanmars where the pump is in back to front! Engineers have a lot to answer for IMNSHO 😉