MF135 Restoration #14 Dismantling the Injection Pump
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 พ.ย. 2018
- Re Seal and Assemble CAV Injection Pump
This is an in depth video of disassembling the injection pump on out MF135. The video is quite long but very detailed.
Seal kit can be bought here:
www.queenslandtractorspares.c... - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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Thank you Lance for taking the time and making this video...California, USA, someone has decided to mess with the Diesel fuel for emissions. I'm 63 and it sure doesn't resemble the #2 fuel of the past. Yesterday after watching your video again I tore mine apart again, the small piston at the bottom of inlet chamber was gummed up just like you said, the metering valve was gummed up to the point of not turning when I used the shut off link. I kept on going into the two pistons that create the high pressure charge and sure enough stuck like they were glued in. Berryman's carb spray worked great at dissolving the crap we pay $6.00 a gallon for. I'm starting to add a quart of transmission fluid to each tank of fuel now. What a mess. Our gasoline is even worse, if you don't have fuel injection you can expect repair weekly. Anyway, thanks again, Terry
Thanks Terry, We have similar issues here especially with the petrol the diesel seems to be a better quality.
I've done 5 CAV and one Roosa Master pump off Chamberlain's, John Deere's and a White Tractor since I watched your first video and must say thanks. I have a Massey 185 fuel pump to do in the next week or so. Cheers from Bruce Rock WA
Good to hear Richard, Hopefully this couple of videos goes a bit deeper than the first video.
I just "resealed" the top of my injector pump on my MF175, thanks a lot- I had the knowledge on how to do it after I watched you video.
Glad it helped
Hi Lance, after watching your videos on pump dismantling several times, i resealed my own DB990 CAV DPA pump, the video's are awesome, keep up the good work.
Great to hear!
I think you just saved me a ton of money! I have a MF 150 with the 3 cylinder Perkins diesel. It is dumping fuel into the oil. According to your video its that rear o-ring seal. I was dreading taking it to the dealer, but I"m sure I can fix it myself. Thank you!!!
Glad I could help
I’ve got the tractor running so I guess I’ve got it right.
Thank you very much, the video really helped.
Great to hear! Thanks for the support.
@@BundyBearsShed
Spell check got me on the (cab)
Should have been Cav injection pump
Morning Bundy
Tractor is running good.
It smoked before the rebuild but it’s smoking more now I think fuel is getting in somewhere because the muffler tail pipe is wet with tar.
I’ve read that the thremostart can leak fuel into the manifold if so it’s been doing it for years. I’ve blocked that line off to see if it helps and then run the tractor hard to burn it out of the muffler.
Here’s my question. The chart you showed for the throttle plate holes did not match what I had on mine so I put it back like it was. 3 years ago I put orings in the top part of the pump but maybe I installed it in the wrong holes then. Should I go back in and put it like the chart has? Could it be getting to much fuel from the wrong holes?
I’ve got all the numbers on the pump. The one you referenced in the video on mine is a 3, it has a slash on both sides.
If it idles and you get full revs it is fine and I wouldnt touch it. Good hard work will tidy it all up but you may have leaky injectors it if is white smoke.
@@BundyBearsShed I believe I had a plugged up return line. I blew air back into the fuel tank and something popped out, I’m working on it. Thank you for your time.
If I watch a new video everybody says it's so hard to take these pumps apart and put them back together you'll never getting right I did it Murder in the sailboat Also grew up around metaphorescent tractors 1 65 1 75 and 135I got a price or a new injector pump that was $3800 it's a local place to work on a rebuild them in Richmond Virginia they won a $1900 just to clean it then tell you what's wrong with itThank you for taking time to make your videos
Im glad it helped. they are not really so bed when you are shown what to do.
Thanks Lance for your CAV Inj Pump Reseal video. With your video I have successfully resealed the CAV pump on my Massey 65. Thanks!!!
Keep up the videos they are great.
Bill 😁
Glad it helped
thanks a lot, this was of great help for my purposes! I am really grateful!
Glad it could help.
Thanks Lance, appreciated. Do you maybe know the wrench and also thread size of the two bolts of the small lateral cover (next to the label)? I guess the seal there is something like cork made..right? thanks a lot again!
G’day Lance very interesting you have to think of the brains that worked that pump out, good video looking forward to the next one John
Yep some clever people around for sure.
Thanks for another informative video Lance. Not scared to tackle my mates tractor. Keep up the good work. Best wishes Mick.
G day Michael, Have a go for sure, there is no black magic in there at all.
Great video! I've removed the top half ones with some pumps to change the seals always wanted to know how the rest of it works! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks SYB-B.
Thanks for this video. Would not have dared to do the pump on my Landini 5500 without this fantastic tutorial. Excellent didactics btw. Greatings from Portugal!
Glad it helped
thanks a lot for putting this video series together im sure it will help a great many of us ,your top notch fella Lance thank you
Thanks Rodney, Now Ill need a bigger hat, lol. I hope it is useful to everyone.
Great video series Lance. Many thanks.
Thankyou.
Thanks the 165 is a classic
it is.
Thank you Lance, well done.
Our pleasure!
Hello sir
Iam a mechanical engineer I am a new to whatch yours Vidios I love it to working engine motors if compression egnation or spark egnation engine also Iam intrsant with high tension tawers and bridges by I beams steel concrete combine
At end thank you
Welcome to the channel.
Hi Lance. Thank you so much for sharing all this information. I wish I knew all that when I took mine apart.
Thanks Poul.
I know im asking randomly but does anybody know a trick to get back into an Instagram account??
I was dumb forgot my login password. I love any tricks you can offer me
@Omar Tadeo instablaster ;)
@King Rowan Thanks for your reply. I got to the site thru google and I'm trying it out now.
Takes quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
@King Rowan it did the trick and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thank you so much, you really help me out!
Fantastic videos thanks Bundy! Watched your other video on leaky top section before removing my 96 year old mother in law’s David Brown 885 and it saved me a lot of anxiety. I was trying to removed the return line sealing nuts and twisted it which will be expensive!
Possibly not too expensive, see if there is used ones around.
Brought one back from Tamworth thanks!
I found the two double hex bolts holding the drive head were rusty. Pistons and rollers moved ok but some of that rust could have got into the injectors. Also your advice about mobility of the other piston that regulates flow in the delivery pump was probably valuable as it was stuck.
I have replaced seals etc and have tried turning the pump by hand to test it and there is a lot of resistance: I need to use the longer arm of the Allen key in the shaft bolt to move it. Is this normal, and due to the tightness of new seals, or does that suggest an error in my reassembly?
You are the man Lance, but you need to invest in a pencil magnet. lol
Yes have a few now, lol.
Thanks for taking the time to show us this video. I’ve got this same pump but it appears my pump is dumping too much diesel into the cylinders causing white smoking and it will sure burn your eyes if it runs inside a building for a little while. It doesn’t leak but people are saying it needs to be rebuilt. What, within the pump, would cause this problem? I replaced the injectors and the previous owner stated the pump had been rebuilt. I’m not sure how far he/she went with the rebuild or why they decided to do so unless it was to chase this problem. Also around mid/high range rpm’s it begins to white smoke a bit more and seems to miss. I think some refer to it as “hazing.” It idles a bit rough as well but it seems at mid range it seems to run fine. I’m at a loss with it.
I would re visit the injectors and check the manifold heater is not leaking badly. The pump wont usually do that.
@@BundyBearsShed thanks for the reply. Its a 1967 Ford 2000 Tractor. I’ve only owned it for a year but it’s done this entire time I’ve owned it. I put all new injectors in it trying to fix this and it didn’t help. I thought maybe the white smoke may be a result from a blown head gasket so I replaced it. Still didn’t help. I thought it was a fuel pump timing issue and tried to adjust the time +/- and it didn’t help. I just thought maybe the pump was dumping too much diesel fuel in and the white smoke was a result from unburnt diesel.
I may look into the injectors again. I bought aftermarket ones but when I pulled the head off to replace the head gasket I noticed the tips of the newer injectors looked to have a bit more build up on them than I was expecting but maybe it was normal. When you mention manifold heater is that also known as glow plugs? If so my tractor does not have them.
Hi Lance I see your a kitter fist like myself. They say we use the opposite side of out brain and are good at art. Cheers.
G Day Graham, Yep. Tractor art for me, thats when Im using my brain. lol..
Good job master...👨🔧👌🖐
Thanks Dimo
This video helped alot! throttle valve was stuck here. After cleaning the pin the motor starts every time :)
Good work!
@@BundyBearsShed We are having some issues now with the tractor stopping after giving it som throttle and then letting the throttle go. Do you have any tips? Adjust one of the springs inside? i see that there are an adjustment nut on the linkage going to the fuel valve. or should i try to change holes on the large spring going from the throttle linkage to the plate? tighten or loosen one of the springs?? video of the issue here th-cam.com/video/CHj6ZmEPr-Y/w-d-xo.html
Great video lance! Love your work I have a ford 5000 with a Simms unit that is getting some early weeps might call qld tractor supplies if you supply a kit
G day Andrew, We do a kit for the CAV as per the video but not the in line Simms pump. I would stock them if I could find a supplier.
I watched your video this morning. Removed, rebuilt, and installed today. Fuel leaks gone, starts on first revolution, throttle responsive, for some reason the oil light would flicker before and now that is gone too (I'm guessing that the gasket to the crankcase was bad?). Thanks for such a well put together video, subscribed!
Glad it helped
Yep . Watched this video AFTER removing idle spring without paying attention. Lost the idle spring. Also dont take right end fuel line out of injector pump and turn pump upside down . Oh mummy.
There are a few holes to fall in for sure.
Hi, excellent video. I have some issue with my MF135. After it runs for a while and the motor is warm, the engine revs up without changing the throttle position. This happens while driving and during standstill. I suspect the injection pump and your video gives me the confidence that I can try to repair it on my own. Any other hint, what the issue might be specifically, is very welcome.
G Day Axel, I would just check the metering valve is nice and free and not sticking.
Great videos on the 135 ,
Have you got any videos on changing the lift top on a 135, have one the same as you with the Clevis broken, thanks Stephen
G Day Stephen, Not yet but there will be one coming up for sure.
Hi Lance, awesome video mate! Appreciate the wealth of knowledge you have and the will to pass it to younger tinkerers. I have a MF185 and its starts at the tap of the key and runs perfectly, but the pull to stop lever no longer works, it just moves freely. Have you come across this before? Has the cam come away from the arm inside somehow? It stops fine when I rev it up and force the throttle lever off. Thanks mate.
A lot of times the nut on the top has come loose and the lever has ridden up so it doesnt contact the flats on the stop shaft. Worth a look and easy to fix.
Thanks Lance, I'll take that lever off and have a check of that. Cheers!
Great video. Very helpful! I just bought a mf135 that was not running. In my excitement and ignorance, I pulled it behind a Cummins trying to start it and didn’t realize I had it in reverse while pulling it forward for several hundred yards. Did I destroy anything doing this. Is a rebuild of injection pump futile at this point? Thanks!
Probably no damage I wouldnt be to concerned at this stage.
Lance, I love your videos, they are really helpful and I appreciate your encouragement to tackle these projects on our own. I am knee deep in an old Perkins 4.236 I just bought. It had not run in 15-20 years. I got it to break loose, put on new fuel filter and lift pump, bled the pump and injectors with fresh fuel, changed the oil and filter, and it actually fired and ran. Unfortunately, it goes to full throttle and neither throttle or shutoff levers have any impact on it. I am curious if you have ever had a situation where the CAV pump internals (whether metering valve, governor or timing/fuel advance, etc.) would ever cause that situation? I know that blow by of engine oil or leaks around the valve stems could fuel it but the engine starts with gray/black smoke and almost immediately goes to full throttle. When we disconnected the fuel line, it will run for a second and then shuts down, making me think it's something with the pump. If we leave the fuel connected, we have to shut if off with a block of wood over the intake manifold. (engine is non-turbo). Thank you and I would appreciate any advice or direction you might have on this. John Harrison, Florida, USA
Too much oil in the oil bath will make them run away and the stopper should shut the metering valve to closed position so pop the top off for a look .
@@BundyBearsShed I pulled the top off the CAV IP yesterday afternoon and the metering valve was frozen in position at close to WOT. I got it to gently worked it and got it to break loose, and lightly buffed the metering valve and got out the rust and schmutz that was in the top of the housing. I am having a dickens of a time getting the shutoff peg to seat properly on the shutoff plate so that it works, and my new out of the box lift pump seems to be lacking enough umph to get fuel at the proper pressure to the filter and then IP so I will try an electric pump as a makeshift to see if I can get it all to come together and run under throttle control. This engine is an ugly duckling right now but am hoping to get it back to it's glory soon. ya'll are a huge help and I like how you are able to weave Australian mannerisms, words, and humor into it all. It's like we're right there with you in the shop. Thanks again!
This is indeed a big improvement compared to the previous vid! However in the line-up at the end of the vid where all the parts of the backplate are, you're missing the little fiber ring that supposed to be at the bottom of the guide. No biggy, just a thing to be aware of. I'm gonna take off the back plate from the CAV sitting still on the Landini/Perkins and take that back home, cause this stuff is too fragile to do in the field. Thanks again! (btw where is that 45 degree vice you're using made for? Probably a Bundy Special :-) creative for sure)
Thanks, The vise is just a fabricated offset vice, I have a few of them.
Thanks Lance for a great video which gave me the confidence to tackle my CAV pump on my IH444, it had a leak coming from the bottom of the pump but I decided to take it apart and replace all the copper washers and o rings to give it a bit of a birthday! The problem I had though when I took it apart there wasn't a big circlip inside the pump, it used to run pretty good but now starts ok and then the revs go right up to max which I shut it down pdq any suggestions what I can do or where I could get a circlip without buying a new pump? Cheers from across the ditch in Kiwiland
G Day Peter, I would think you have the top springs in the wrong place, that is usually what makes them rev up. I have never seen one without a circlip.
@@BundyBearsShed G'Day Lance have checked it, the number on the plate is 4 which I think is hole 2 on the governor and 1 on the throttle shaft? I suspect that someone at somepoint has had a go and forgot to put the circlip back in - is it a vital piece for it running?
So I started going at my pump. High pressure plungers nice and free, metering valve good and clean, new screen in the intake of the transfer pump, and verified fuel flow at the pump inlet. But still no fuel out the injector ports. Running out of ideas on what it could be. Going to check on that little plunger on the transfer pump inlet. It seemed ever so slightly snug. Hope that's it, as it's a bit of a bear working with the pump on the machine, but still easier than removing it from the machine.
To check the plungers under the rollers I think you would be easier with the pump off the machine, have you bled it properly? Make sure the little spring is under the shuttle on the end.
@@BundyBearsShedThank you for your thoughts Lance.
I had the head off. I didn't take the shoes off, but could hear the plungers sliding to the opposite side as I slowly rotated it. As far as bleeding, I removed the bleeder screw and cranked the motor, which is shooting a stream of fuel out. And yep on the spring in the bottom. Almost lost that critter!
I don't quite understand how that little plunger and small spring above it really work. Seems like a lot of space above the spring, and that little seat that the large spring sits on, that the little spring seems like it wouldn't be doing anything.
@@BundyBearsShed I'm such a boob!! So I tore the head out again, but this time removed the shoes to really check the plungers, instead of relying on just hearing them move. Sure enough, stuck. It was just the rollers I heard moving before.
THANK YOU FOR YOUR VIDEOS! I would surely have given up if it weren't for them!
@@BundyBearsShed one last post. Still couldn't get her to run after freeing up the plungers. Back to the fuel regulator parts on the front of the transfer pump. Removed the parts, figuring I don't need pressure regulation on a gravity feed system, only to later discover those parts control pressure of the transfer pump itself. Finally figured out that there was a microscopic burr on that regulator plunger. Diamond filed the edge and reassembled. I could blow and suck on the inlet and feel the plunger moving correctly again. Reassembled and bled air. Still wouldn't run. Force fed the CAV with an inline 12v fuel pump and finally got it pumping. Hooked up my injection lines, and finally, after nine full days taking apart and reassembling the CAV, the engine came back to life.
Lesson learned: life would have been a whole lot easier removing the entire pump from the engine, troubleshoot & repair, and most of all, bench bleeding the pump. Seems most the challenge is getting air out of the dead-end passage, where those high pressure plungers reside.
Awesome Video! Can i replace spring loaded vanes with vanes without springs?
Im not sure, I have not seen any with spring loaded vanes.
Ok friend, I have another question. The Perkins AD3.152 is the engine that’s in my 1998 Massey Ferguson 231 (excellent tractor by the way!!). I’m almost confident enough to reseal the injection pump, after watching your videos. You do an EXCELLENT JOB explaining and I THANK YOU so much for this! Ok so my pump (WSK brand) is leaking around the pump head. I’m confident it’s the o-ring around the head that’s causing the issue. My question is:
Does the pump absolutely have to be removed from the tractor or can the o-ring be changed while the pump is still bolted on the tractor?
Thank You and may God Bless you and your family!
It doesnt have to but they are easy to remove so I choose to remove the pump.
Creating lance, thanks for you tutorial, very thorough and simple. I followed your dismantling along and got to the end. However, I cannot find what’s wrong with my pump!!
It pumps up to the injectors but not through the injectors!!!
Any suggestions?
Bleed at the injectors for a while
Hi Lance, one of the David Brown 990's that I purchased has a blown motor, no 4 piston came out both sides and the sump. When i bought it the man said the injector pump had been overhauled. Is this the sort of damage that can happen if the pump head is turned up to max?
Possibly if it was over revved but not often from over fueling a bit.
Also, where can I get those plastic caps and plugs for the hydraulic fittings?
They come in the seal kit, enough for a 6 cyl pump.
I have a fairly stripped head on my upper bleed screw on my injection pump. Can you pass on to me the thread count and screw size so I can replace both of them the upper and lower. Or if you know where I can source replacements. Cheers; love the channel!
Sent advice re email.
Thanks Lance I've seen hudreds times before getting confident to do it my self and am now there. 32:15 also my drive hub has a very slight groove wear... can fell it with my nail... do you believe better replacing or just polishing... thanks you
Polish it smooth and the new seal will work fine.
@@BundyBearsShed thanks 1000 or 1200 Sand paper
@@giemme4492 even 600 is fine enough for a lip seal
@@BundyBearsShed do thank you👍
41:30 interesting about how critical the position of the circlip is. Is that just because it's your visual timing reference from earlier on in the disassembly or is it mechanically linked to the timing? Is there any risk of it drifting out of position over time due to vibration, etc?
(Sorry if this is answered in the video - I'm watching it in installments and might have missed it!)
It is just a visual reference, i have had pumps back from a diesel shop and they havent bothered lining it up at all. Doesnt matter at times.
@@BundyBearsShed Thanks This helps. I was thinking it is just a visual reference so i will have to go by feel to get my tractor going nicely. I dont have any past references to line up to.
Since I rebuild my injection pump on my 23c, the throttle is super sensitive than I cant drive the tractor, one place it want to rev super high and 1/8 less on the throttle shaft and it shut off.The shut off is less sensitive than the throttle so I can move with it more easly. Do you have an ideas on what I do wrong, linkage, timing, governor , spring bleeding etc? I rebuild it two time to see that problem and I saw nothing wrong.And I truc meany possibility on the governor spring hole to do nothing.
It sounds lije the governor spring is in a wrong hole. Have a good look for a shiny worn bit around the holes and that might give you a clue to where it was
I have a 6 cylinder version of this pump and I've either got a leak from the bottom fuel pipe as i cant see it leaking from anywhee else, the fuel stop solenoid or perhaps that large 'O'ring at the back. If it is the large 'O'ring can i change this in situ without removing the pump from the engine?
You can but it is a fiddle.
G’day Lance, I suspect my stopper is stuck after sitting a while while I rebuilt the steering box. I have pressure at the bleeder screws but none at the rotor valves.
Is there a way to get the stopper unstuck without taking the cap off the IJ? Boiling water over pump? Knock with a hammer?
If not I’ll be ordering a new gasket.
Cheers.
T
I
Hold the pump wide open with the stopper in run position and give it a bump and that can help. If not pop the top off and free up the metering valve.
I have a MF 230 the MF Fuel injectopumpr cav 3230F450! I have a leak from the bottom bolt that drains fuel from the system to the point have bleed the pump and crank it until i fuel to the injectors!
Question: is there an O-ring on the bottom bolts to seal it? And can it be removed , without causing a problem? Asking before i srew something up!
Yes it has an o ring you can drop it out the bottom without a worry.
Buddy, how much would the new end cap be and postage to Northern Ireland BT60 1HY.
GREAT VIDEO , REGARDS CHRIS
Look for a Quality Tractor Parts dealer in Ireland, thats where I buy mine
Absolutly great video !!! I dont believe anyone has ever done a video so needed by folks who are having issues with these pumps , finding info on them is like searching for Atlantis! Lmao thank you again , you've helped me greatly. I do have 1 issue I cannot seem to resolve on my pump. I cannot locate the spring number anywhere, my pump plate doesnt have any of that info on it , lucas cav dpa 3348f301. Type RE37927 , nobody can tell me where the spring is supposed to be , any chance you have any info on this ? I'm really sorry to ask after you've provided so much.
Ni I only have limited info but look at where it goes and there is usually small shiny marks that would give you a hint.
@@BundyBearsShed someone chimed in on another forum and gave it to me , I'll pass it on to you so you have it incase someone needs it in the future. Thanks again for a great video and all your help.
Bud I'm waiting on parts for mine now , but very curious , I was having trouble bleeding my system to the injectors , I was told to crimp the return line and crank the tractor. With lines cracked , does that seem correct to you or do you have a better way ?
I'm on round two of disassembly on my pump, I followed the older video first and now trying to figure out what I did wrong. Pump does not develop pressure, just dribbles at injectors, worked fine before I attempted seal job. I cant see anything wrong yet but am wondering if the two stage advance mechanism on the bottom of the pump could cause such issues?
I dont think so, Sometimes it is hard to get all of the air out without fitting it to the tractor.
I did the same thing could only get a dribble after taking apart several times.. so finaly put it on the tractor and she ran great
@@mickeymcmillian9885 yes a "dribble" is a relative thing. At best the pumps don't put out a big stream and it always seems like just a dribble. In my case it was very much a dribble due misssembly on my part. After correction it was less than a dribble and more of a small squirt and started right up
I love your U-tube rebuild video's,
I have a 1980 MF 20C industrial Tractor/loader with a Perkins/Premium D3.152, 3 Cylinder Engine.
The name plate on the injector has- C.A.V. (made in England) DPA# 3233F671 on it. Below that is a SER# R 31851UY on it.
Below that. Is a # that looks like (it’s hard to read)-W47E900/3/2470
question pleas- The bottom bleed valve bleeds clear and fine with good pressure, but the top blead valve dose not bleed at all. No air, No diesel, no foam, no nothing, and naturally it want start . I've taken a pipe cleaner and tried to clear any blockage. Didn't help. I have a new kit, do i just need to take the top part off and rebuild or rebuild the hole thing? THANKS!
Try removing the top and check the metering valve isnt stuck. You can deal with the bleed screw with the top off.
@@BundyBearsShed Thanks for the response, I removed the top while still on the tractor. I removed the metering valve and cleaned it very well with 350 grit very lightly. I put it all back together and it seemed to all go very well, fallowing your directions in the video. It still didn't push fuel out the top bleed screw but what it did do is push oil / diesel out the oil dip stick retainer. What should I do next. I very much appreciate your advise.
I need help. Please respond. Out of fuel, fuel tank petcock off because of leak.
Fixed leak. Took the lid off and on several times. Finally got the on/off pin in the slot.
Put back together, pumped fuel through the pump bolts. Took off the injector feed. Pumped, but pumping never makes the fuel go out the injector connection.
I pump till the pump seems like it reaches a flat pump, making me think its full.
I crank the engine a bit, except it never seems to prime the pump.
John from Alabama.
Try and only bleed on one injection pipe, I find that seems to get rid of any air quickly once the main pump bleed screws are free from air.
G'day! Doing the same pump, with mech. advance. Timely! Where I would I find governor rod length? Between gov plate and main fuel valve?
Look up a CAV workshop manual I usually leave that alone as I dont need to play with it
So Bundy i think I have a gas engine instead of a diesel, it is a 4 cylinder 1992 MF 30 industrial loader and backhoe. It will not run on diesel.
I have good fuel pressure going into the injectors it just will not run, although it will run on starting fluid.
How do I know whether it is diesel or gas, the tractor was torn apart and there was no fuel in the tank or the engine, it hasn't ran since 2005, my friend and I thought all backhoes and front loaders were diesel, I sure hope I didn't damage the engine if it is gas and not diesel.
Also where do i find the engine size, i was told to look for a number ending in 203 or 212, this will tell me what enging i have.
I dont see that anywhere on the dirty engine.
Have any idea where I should look?
see below.
My tractor really hard to start, what compent in the pump is the starting mechanism?
Probably the elements under the rollers. Could be the vane pump worn though.
I need help with finding a TAFE 35 DI FUEL INJECTION PUMP. DO you have a part number or by any chance what massey ferguson pump will is interchangeable ?
No I dont Im afraid, I would possibly look for a MF148 or possibly a 204 or 550 pump
Ok thanks for ur help
Hi, Could you please let me know what is Head and Rotor number for CAV pump. There are many part reference showing on websites.
Each pump has a different one so it would be model specific.
If you leave that steel plate insert out in the end housing what would be the result?
It wouldn't work.
@@BundyBearsShed Correct, Thank you
Morning
I’ve got a part on a cab I’m not sure which way it goes. The manual shows one way but I think it came out another way. Is there anybody that could help me with it?
Im not sure what cab etc.
@@BundyBearsShed
3842f061 injection pump cav
Long 610 tractor
I thought the only purpose of the surclip was to stop the cam from moving forward along the housing.
No the flat side or mark it to indicate the point of injection on no1
Can you put some sort of washer or something to seperate the stopper valve from from the flat surface of the pump if it seems sticky ? I have cleaned and finely polished mine up but still seems to bite a bit on the flat
Not that I am aware of
Bundy Bears Shed ok got any ideas ? Or just keep it as is clean and maybe add some 2 stroke to the diesel mix been hearing the diesel nowadays is too clean drys pumps out
Bad pump will do engine a lot of smoke 💨 out of exhaust
Not always it depends on timing etc.
I thought the whole assembly was master splined and could only go in one way only.
Yep
ترجمه للعربي
Not sure how.
5pc pump want India