Very similar to the old Bedford rear seal, it was part of the rear main bearing. Fitted with a hammer dolly and cut of the excess. I enjoy the videos thanks.
To avoid having a feather after trimming, use a scissors to trim that feather. Otherwise, with the blade, place the hammer handle against the rope and trim towards and against the handle.
I thin gasket cement and paint it on the gasket let it go tacky then stick the gasket on the face, it is also useful for metal to metal joints just paint one side let it go tacky and then join and tighten down aluminium motor cycle cases seal up well then. the bolts are done when your arm goes click grins are the plates marked bottom and top ?
No they are not marked but I put the flanged one to the bottom as it seems to direct oil back but In not sore if it is correct or not as I could find no mention of it in the manual. Yep I use the clicky elbow method regularly.
Can this rope seal job be done just by splitting the tractor, I was told I'd have to remove the sump but looking at this it's just a case of taking off the flywheel?
Bundy Bears Shed thank you for the reply , I have a good friend down below you at the Gold Coast area , you and your videos remind me how much I like Australia . Now if you just buy a Massey 165 to rebuild I will be set !!
Greetings from Ireland 🇮🇪 I noticed the aluminium seal retainers are different on the inner face, there is an extra stepped edge on one, I wonder is there a top and bottom, have you any thoughts on this bundy bears ?
Eddie75, they will work either way around but the half with the extra edge on it is really meant to go to the top of the engine, the other one if you look at it there is the shape of the rear bearing cap bottom in it to match the two holes in the bearing cap that are on either side of the thrust bearing locating tab, the two holes lets the excess oil from the rear main bearing drain back into the sump.
hello can you help me. i am making a perkins ad3 152 engine. but I don't know the kg that I have to tighten the bolts of the crankshaft and the cylinder head you can help me
Very similar to the old Bedford rear seal, it was part of the rear main bearing. Fitted with a hammer dolly and cut of the excess. I enjoy the videos thanks.
G Day Simon, Yes there were many of these back in the day. Most modern engines including these 3 cylinder Perkins engines now run a lip seal.
Cheers for this useful video ,very informative one
Thanks Mohammed.
Thank you for the video I’m going to apply it been troubling me for quite some time
I hope it helps
I have always trimmed rope rear main seals, leaving them slightly proud as you did. A razor blade works well.
G Day Dave, Yes I have not come across any that didn't need cutting but apparently they are out there.
To avoid having a feather after trimming, use a scissors to trim that feather. Otherwise, with the blade, place the hammer handle against the rope and trim towards and against the handle.
Excellent
Thank you! Cheers!
nice job Lance, I like those "safety" shoes you have.
Nice and comfy until a hammer falls on my toe, lol.
Lance, I may have missed it, but did you fit the new thrust bearings before the rear main seals?
Yes Larry that was on the tying up loose ends video.
I thin gasket cement and paint it on the gasket let it go tacky then stick the gasket on the face, it is also useful for metal to metal joints just paint one side let it go tacky and then join and tighten down aluminium motor cycle cases seal up well then.
the bolts are done when your arm goes click grins
are the plates marked bottom and top ?
No they are not marked but I put the flanged one to the bottom as it seems to direct oil back but In not sore if it is correct or not as I could find no mention of it in the manual. Yep I use the clicky elbow method regularly.
I use the aviation sealant, it's never failed me.
g Day Tim. Its good stuff alright but not on the hairs on your arm, lol.
like them work boots
Yep very comfy for Queensland
Can this rope seal job be done just by splitting the tractor, I was told I'd have to remove the sump but looking at this it's just a case of taking off the flywheel?
Just splitting will get it done.
Do you find these seals to be successful? They usually start leak in no time after. Was 1 awful flaw with Massey
Usually they are good the trick is to soak in oil and be careful while fitting them.
thanks Lance - great vid - is a ferguson ted20 similar? cheers Guy Sheffield
No it is a different set up.
Lance , did I see one of your spanners that said made in Australia? what brand would that have been ?
That is an old Sidchrome spanner. Taken over by Stanley now I believe.
Bundy Bears Shed thank you for the reply , I have a good friend down below you at the Gold Coast area , you and your videos remind me how much I like Australia . Now if you just buy a Massey 165 to rebuild I will be set !!
Hi Lance, could you replace thr rear engine seal without taking the engine out of the tractor?
Yes but you would need to split the tractor though.
Is there any way to tell which of the alluminium rope seal holder goes on top and which one goes on the bottom?
Im not sure, just check the mounting holes or look for a shadow where the old ones were.
I'm in the same predicament cant remember which one was the top one and they're both different, did you ever figure it out?
Greetings from Ireland 🇮🇪 I noticed the aluminium seal retainers are different on the inner face, there is an extra stepped edge on one, I wonder is there a top and bottom, have you any thoughts on this bundy bears ?
Yes there is and Im not 100% sure I got that correct but it doesnt leak at all.
Eddie75, they will work either way around but the half with the extra edge on it is really meant to go to the top of the engine, the other one if you look at it there is the shape of the rear bearing cap bottom in it to match the two holes in the bearing cap that are on either side of the thrust bearing locating tab, the two holes lets the excess oil from the rear main bearing drain back into the sump.
hello can you help me. i am making a perkins ad3 152 engine. but I don't know the kg that I have to tighten the bolts of the crankshaft and the cylinder head you can help me
I replied somewhere else yesterday.
Hi Lance, what loctite did you use? Great video, very helpful 👍
Usually 515 or if you are in Australia Bareco R51 is half the price.
I got a 1979 255 massy trying to figure out tranny measurements to where it bolts to the bell housing
Use cardboard and possibly make a gasket and measure from there.
Why did you leave the rope seal protruding? and how much did you leave above the edge.
I leave it protrude by around 1/16" to compress tight when done up for as firm fit around the crankshaft.
Thank you for that. I doing one on my massey 35 as its leaking.
Im likewise facing this project on my 35x.
Hello Mr. , have you tried our seals?
I have one to try but have not had the job for it yet.
Sir you are fit the upper collar lower side
Ill have a look, perhaps I did. not sure. It doesnt leak at least.
maybe if you roll it in with the desired amount protruding on one side then when you're done you only need to trim the long end on one side.
It is sort of ribbed so you cant seem to slide it really.
we dont have magpie geese in ireland
G Day Martin, They can be noisy buggers.
No need to torque?
If you are new to mechanicing torquing would be good to do but with experience not so important.
@@BundyBearsShed fair enough. Thank you!
@@BundyBearsShed what media did you use to blast that cast aluminum?
@@johnpalmer9774 Glass beads
now if you need to seal i use PEP or no 3 is good ///// where is the dog
Dog is doing dog stuff like sleeping under the ute.
th-cam.com/video/3LPPc6KP91g/w-d-xo.html