To be able to run with so many "systems" out of spec. is a tribute to the design of this engine. It's as though the expectation of neglect of maintenance was built-in; the designers anticipated the indiscipline of the product's owner.....?!!? A tribute to them.... Your pedagogical (sp?) manner is superb, and, even though I'll never own a MF tractor, they've earned my respect and affection. So much easier to comprehend than any "modern" car.....! It's our hope here that you have a bountifully rainy, summer season.....just as we're expecting a warm but wet winter. Australia is due....some rain...!
Sir. Just bought a 1974 MF135 w/Perkins 3cyl Diesel. Injector pump leaking bad. I found a man that can repair/rebuild the pump; I just need to remove and mail to him. He sent me the link to your video. Thank you for an excellent "how-to" step-by-step tutorial. I'm confident--after watching your video--that I can successfully remove my tractor's pump. Will wait 'til I get the rebuilt pump back before I watch your video on how to install the fuel injector pump on the old 135s. Again, sir, many, many thanks.
@@BundyBearsShed Thanks. Ok. I need an expert's help. Got the rebuilt pump back. When I went to install the pump, back end into the timing gear mount plate, I must've pushed through that alignment pin that fits into the keyway on the pump shaft. I had a piece of cloth inside the timing gear box, but it must've slipped past. Any easy way to fish that alignment pin out without removing the whole front gear cover?
@@BundyBearsShed Sorry to bother you again, sir. I found the alignment pin just where it is supposed to be. Didn't know til tonight, with a headlamp, that the pin only extends out toward the injector pump shaft and NOT through the front surface of the timing gear. Dummy me. Sorry for the trouble today. Thanks for helping me, sir.
Lance, you've cleared up a few mystery's for me about fuel pump timing and I feel much more confident about it now. Your video's and your explanations are very clear and easy to follow so thanks once again.
Another excellent video Lance!! I’m almost confident enough to pull the pump off my MF 231 and reseal it. You know your stuff. Wish you were my neighbor! THANK YOU for the videos!
I’d like to thank you for these! I’ve picked up an old MF165 that just stared leaking fuel. Your vids are great quality and easy to understand ( less the way you call your tools lol ). Keep up the great work!
My dad has a mf 135. 1975 model. The tractor stopped all of a sudden while running. Found lots of dirt in dieselfilter and in the tank. Replaced both filters and cleaned everything else real good. Resealed the pump also, followed your instructions in the video. However, can not get it to run right. Feels like it runs only on two cylinders and it shoots fire out the exhaust. Great videos from you anyway.
@@BundyBearsShed do you mean timing of the pump? I put it back exactly as it was. Is there something i can have messed up to cause this? Thank you for answering.
Hey I want to thank you very much for doing this video. I have a 1972 MF'r, 203 ci, 4 cyl diesel, Backhoe and it is very similar to your engine and the injector pump was leaking from the top very bad. I thought I knew what I was doing but after reviewing your video I did know what I was doing. Thanks also for going over the timing of the injector pump as well. I did not find the timing marks on the flywheel but I know where the dowel pin is, and the letter for the timing mark on the pump. The engine will not be turned over until after the pump is installled but if something does go wrong I know how to fix it. Many thanks again and keep it going.
Lance, I'm picking up a case 580K from a friend. Both of us believe that the timing is off on the injection pump. So thanks so much for all the great information. Loves your video's.
Hi. Respectable person. Thanks for your useful videos. I enjoy watching your videos whenever I can. It's great to be an expert and share information I wish you all the best in your work. Thank you very much, sir. MF 148
Excellent instructional video Lance! I’m not afraid to take the pump off my AD3.152 now. It’s leaking a lot of diesel. It’s on a 1998 Massey Ferguson 231 tractor. “WSK” brand CAV injection pump. I’m thinking very hard about trying to reseal it myself. I’m no mechanic, but I have the tools. THANK YOU
I’m surprised that the bolts holding the drive gear into the pump shaft didn’t have locking tabs . Nice trick stuffing some rag in there so if you drop a bolt or washer it can’t end up in the sump , i wonder how many times that has happened ! One thing with setting up timing marks on any engine is if you go past the marks by accident don’t just bump it back to them go back a quarter turn and creep up on them again . If you just bump them back the backlash in the gears or timing chain will stuff up your readings .
Thanks bro.... awesome, informative, well explained video Bundy....well done!!! just about to help me mate do the same on a Ford 230 marine......give it a go ay bro!!!! Cheers
just about to take my pump off my 35 to clean behind it prior to paint. I dont know if im at tdc but i have lined the pump up with the letter c and theres a hole in the flywheel that will take a 3/8 drill bit. As long as i dont turn over the engine, im hoping to put it back to thase marks. Great tutorials by the way.
Great video I have a MF 255 turning but not cranking, replaced the fuel pump but hasnt been timed, for what letter do I need to align inside the pump when turning it? Thanks a bunch!
I have multiple problems with my Perkins 152 3 cyl on MF35. It has blown gaskets on combustion chamber twice and many leaking points on CAV pump and very hard to start (before blowing gaskets). Did my use of a lot of ether to start the tractor blow the gaskets? Is bad timing blowing the gaskets? Hard start due to fuel system air leaks, timing, injectors, or what? Any how, your videos are really upping my chance of getting things fixed. Thank you, Doug.
Im just warching this..its soooo .infirmative. iv a citreon, u25.2.5 diesel.. with a cav pump... waw i hope your still out there..i wonder ware you are in austriala..what part..
Hi Lance , If my undesrtanding is correct when the E mark on the pump is aligned with the flat end of the inj pump inner circlip and the piston #1 is close to its TDC (firing) then you can read on the flywheel the exatc timing. The E matches with the flat end of the circlip only when the piston#1 is firing and not whan it is pushing the exhaust.. am I right? Thank you again for your valuable vids.
So, if I did all that ,everything is working, just not enough pressure to push the fuel to injectors, I changed the head and still same thing, when I do it on the bench, it just barley bubbles at the head, whereas yours spits out enough to hit the camera lol. And thanks for the help your video was right on
@@BundyBearsShed . So do you think the head is bad If I don't get the pressure to it like yours does? I should say it is a cav same as the 1 in this video. Thanks
Hi Lance Would you happen to know which way do I move the pump to advance timing on Massey 165 with the 212 engine! I just want to see does it improve the starting if I move it one or two degrees Thanks Wesley
Hello Bundy. I rebuilt my pump and put it back on. It is now running away when I crank it. The throttle doesn’t help at all. Blowing tons of white smoke and extremely high idle. Is it out of time or something else wrong?
I had to subscribe to your channel, I've got a question for you and I really hope that you've encountered it... I'm working on a LONG 350, the metering valve has been cutting into the housing assembly and has it scored where it he's been scraping away at the aluminum. When, I first started purging the lines, the injectors were barely pushing fuel out of the lines. They were just trickling diesel out. Popped the cover and there's some minor aluminum shavings at the top, just below the governor. Any clue as to what could cause the metering valve arm to score the housing up and do you believe the seals are potentially damaged? It's been a fine tractor, but she sat all winter... That's what brought the discovery on. I can do some pictures or video if needed. Thank you sir
Hi lance, I have a 1963 Massey Ferguson 65 diesel that I had running for a few seconds but can’t seem to get to to fire again and stay running. It has professionally rebuilt fuel injection pump and injectors. I also just put a new starter motor in it and still can’t get it to run. Was wondering if you had any ideas? Thank you Ryan
Cheers lance, I was hoping that you would have completed the old TEF 4 cyl. pump setup before starting on the 135. ... :) never mind, I expect I will be able to work it out somehow.... ? :)
Great informative video Lance, i have one question, i bought a brand new injector pump for my 1979 Ford 335 tractor (3 cylinder diesel), when i remove the old pump and install the new pump and realign it at the same timing marks on the pump and the timing cover mark will i be ok ? as long as i dont fire or rotate the engine.
hi lance thanks for your expertise. i have a JD 1640. i was stupid and put 50~50 cooking oil in it. gued all the lines up, thing that looks like a chunk of liver in the tank and snapped the pump shaft, i know ,idiot. i got a second hand pump from a 2040 with a turbo and manifold. turbo connector to exhaust is missing so i hopefully will put the pump on ( which im a bit scared to as all i did was to remove the pump not lining up the marks and hopefully dont drop the keyway????) and i was told it may smoke a bit?? ttfn Dave (Scotland)
It may but I think it will be fine, i would certainly do it. Timing should be fine like you say dont drop the key and line the flange marks up and it should be good to go.
Hello I'm having some issues with my Massey Ferguson 35 it has the three cylinder Perkins diesel engine and the tractor overall runs pretty well the odd time you'll have a misfire but the issue I'm having is it has what I believe is a power loss at high RPM tractor will work fine and all its a low-range gears but if I put it in to say hi range first gear and I'm only at around half throttle the tractor will take off but then if you give it any more throttle it has no response if you give it 3/4 to Full Throttle and then depress the clutch pedal it will not rev up but as soon as you release the clutch pedal again it'll go back down to its half throttle when it does this it doesn't lug or make any weird sounds or misfires it still runs as good as it ever did it's almost like you lower the throttle whenever you release the clutch in a high range gear any help would be greatly appreciated I'm thinking it could be fuel filters fuel injection pump or possibly a bad injector but I do not know for sure I have not had the tractor for long and I'm new two diesel engines thanks
Sorry I spammed some unnecessary comments back there which I deleted. My question is: on these perkins what happens if I turned the crank while pump was out? If I am not mistaken the pump goes on only in one way because of that pin and the only possible adjustment is the tilting of the pump itself right ? my mf 35 x won't start. It always had starting problems. Im thinking it's the timing because it used to run fine after it fired as long as I can remember. I was a bit lost with this timing thing though. Is it possible the professionals I gave the pump to to be cleaned installed the circlip at a different spot and I have to compensate with different tilt? Is it possible they install it so low that I cannot time it properly anymore or is the circlip just an indicator and irrelevant to when the pump fires? My circlip seems quite low in comparison to this videos example. I will have to check letter E and see what degrees I get on the flywheel when aligned with the circlip. I fear I might have to open the timing gears and see if they are not aligned if I try all else. Am I missing anything?
My compliments for all the videos you published on CAV topic. I am in trouble to remove the CAV pump from my Massey ferguson 178, 4 cylinders perkins not starting more from long time now. I undestood it is necessary to make timing phase positioning before to remove the CAV pump. I am not finding the window to check the timing in the flywhell in my tractor but looking your video you show that the CAV pump come back only in one place into the distribution gear. My doubt is: if the CAV pump make in one turn of 360 degree all the injection process for the fours cylenders is not important to check the timing before remove the pump. I mean, if the pump axes connection to the distribution gear is fixed by abliged interface positioning, during the mounting phase is not possible to make mistake with timing. Please i will appreciate a sggestion if possible to proceed in that way. Thanks Luigi
i have a kubota v4000 with the same pump. if i remove the pump , put a couple new gaskets, and put it back in without turning the motor, i should be fine right?
Just found your channel, been battling with a Massey Ferguson 185 with a Perkins a4-248 engine, I can't get it to start, seems out of time. Set the engine in tdc, lined up the pump with the marks. But It doest fire. Is there any marks on the flywheel as well?
Awesome content as usual, Lance! As you don’t like RTV, what would you recommend for sealing the gear/transmission case on a Kubota lawn tractor? Anaerobic sealant of some sort? Thanks.
Deebo1812 . . Transmissions and differentials that require a gear oil that has Friction Modifiers , require a special sealant !! It took me 3 times to get the transaxle on my Case Backhoe sealed ! I finally used. Permatex . Gear Oil RTV Gasket Maker#81184 NOTE- both surfaces must be absolutely clean & oil free !
Good job for hello. I have a question. For example, is there anything that can be done to use the 3241f350 diesel pump (T4.236) instead of the 3348f230 diesel pump for the perkins 4.236?
I need to replace an o-ring in my injection pump on a 710 John Deere ( Lanz) . Would you say this is simular to my tractor even though mine is a 4 cylinder ? I live in Canada and can,t seem to find any info on Lanz ( built in Manheim Germany ) Thanks for the video .
hey Lance rebuilt my pump on my 1974 Massey Fergerson 135 do you have to wire it up to full throttle when re-installing? Because I didn't and it is missing. Runs great and out again, runs great and out again. Can skipping that part cause this. Thanks Michael
Hey lance. thank you for another great video. i have a jcb 410 1986 with a perkins 4.236, the hydraulic head on the pump broke last week so i took it apart and changed the head. Now i have refitted it to the engine and aligned the marks on the engine and on the pump But it wont fire up. So i want to check the timing, only problem is that i cant find any plates or covers on the flywheel housing to check the marks on the flywheel. And on my enginge the starter is located on the fuel pump side of the engine, not on the lift pump side. is there any other way to check if the engine is in tdc?
@@BundyBearsShed yes i have assembled the same way as it was before i took it off the engine and i have tested bleeding the piping to the injectors to make sure it comes diesel from the pump. So far i havent seem to find where the problem is. The hydraulic head that was fitted before was a 344S and the new i fitted in is a 344L. Do you happen to know what the difference between these are? I cant seem to find any specs online
Love watching your clips , very informative. I have a question, can you remove the advance timing unit under a CVA DPA pump to fix a leak without disturbing any settings.
Hi Lance, winter time here in Europe and taking the chance to look again to your tutorials as I am thinking to have my CAV DPA on a AD3152 re-sealed- My main concern is the timing: how can I have the right timing without tearing the engine head down. If my understanding is correct I need to get the piston #1 at TDC (this can be done by taking off the valve train cover and see the valve tappets, when cylinder #3 exhausts valve is fully open) and then make sure E marks on pumps is aligned with square circlips end. In this occasion I simply can hate the pump taken off - resealed and back again (with E mars aligned.) thus keeping the original timing as per flywheel mark. Where am I getting lost???? Thank you Lance
Because the injection pump gear has a dowel it can only go back on in the correct place, Line up your marks on the bolt up flange and you are right to go. You are over thinking it a little. It really doesnt matter where the engine is if you take note of the flange marks.
@@BundyBearsShed Do you refer to the marks to the timing gear backplate and the one on the pump flange? They now seem to be a little (1mm) misaligned, I guess they was set some time ago.. My aim was to take it off just without removing neither the engine head nor the timing Gera front cover… Thank you Lance
@@BundyBearsShed so pump flange mark and timing gear backplate marks shoulf be aligned. then i can just disregard where the engine is? no need to check if the E is in line with the square circlip edge?
I’m about to take mine off off a 245 Massey to have rebuilt. So I should take inspection cover off make sure letter is align with mark. Then when I get it back take cover back off and make sure same letter is aligned ?
Hi i have a ford 3600 tractor i just done a pump reseal on at your specifications and when i put it back on the tractor and got it running, it runs but it dont throttle up high and i cant get any power out of the tractor. At full throttle , it is only running a little above idle. what have i done wrong?
@@BundyBearsShed that's what i thought but i pulled the cap back off and it was where it was when i took it off. i made a diagram before i took it off. it will throttle at times and other times it wont. would it hurt to try it in the bottom hole and see. I took it out of the second hole on both the lever and the governor.
Today i removed my CAV DPA from my marine Ford Lehman 120. 2715e And i the whole pump came out with gear and everything. The gear tuned and i lost what timing i had. I checked the manual but cat see where the timing angle should be😢 Im gonma do an overhaul of the pump but im a bit concerned how to get it back in with correct timimg.
Witam serdecznie z Polski u mnie w silniku ad3.152 są oznaczenia na kole zamachowym 16 ' 20' 24' a w instrukcji napraw jest napisane 16' na ile ustawić
Hi Lance, rebuilt an ad3 152, when fitting the flywheel i never thought about the timing marks. The engine has no rocker cover or injectors yet so pistons are visible but how would i time the engine without having the flywheel mark? Thanks
Be careful! If the pump has been restored, mechanics tend not to care too much about the positioning of reference circip! I've been told by the Bosch mechanic that he and most of the others just put it there so it holds the rotor assembly. So if your pump is not new you can't trust the only accurate method. It sucks but it's worth knowing.
@Bundy Bears Shed Good Morning.Thank you also in the comment.As you mentioned, idling goes back to normal when I hold cold water on the pump element.What exactly is the procedure we need to do?Can it be due to the X blades in the inner part?Can I repair myself.Respects.
Hi there! Working on a MF165 -65 (first tractor), what started as a clutch replacement became a general overhaul. So I took the clutch including flywheel of the tractor, changed the rope seal etc. Just came across this section of your series when I was assembling the flywheel. When I have the 22 degree mark I got the letter F lining up in the fuel pump. Just have the timing instruction for the 3 cylinder one wich should be "E", myself have an 4 cylinder (Perkins AD4 203) What do you reckon? Is it going to miss fire? Thank you very much for uploading this series, more or less done all the job with your help! =) Greets from northern Sweden! /Christian
I dont think it would miss fire but it is possible that you can be one full turn of the crank out as the crank turns twice to one turn of the injection pump. Im not sure what letter the 203 should be on.
Bundy Bears Shed thanks my grandads my 135 has a straight axle and I’ve never seen another with one. They are an awesome tractor the amount of work they can do is incredible( if you know how to operate). Thank you very much for the videos and answering my question the knowledge you have deserves to be passed on in some manner so pls keep the vids coming.
I'm baffled as to why they'd use the movable circlip as the reference point to the timing marks. Move the circlip, and the timing marks become completely irrelevant. (and yes, I understand you stress the importance of maintaining that circlip's position. I just don't know why they didn't just machine the reference into the body casting)
The pump needs to come off my Perkins AD3.152 (Massey 231) to have it resealed. I have watched this video over and over and I still don’t understand. It’s my fault Lance, not yours. Thanks for all your videos though.
@@BundyBearsShed finally got the injector pump off my AD3.152 engine. My mechanic friend came and took it off last week. I sent it off to have it resealed. I’m waiting to hear back from it now.
Hi, I have a 135 with a perkins 3 cylinder diesel. I dont use it that much, when i got it out this year it was very hard to start and blew a lot of black smoke, and now is very low on power. I am a mechanic of 40 years but know little about these engines. I cracked each injector line and it seems to run on 3 cylinders but better on 3 than 1 or 2.I swapped around the injectors but it didnt change, the pump leaks a little fuel. It seems to have compression. What to you think the problem could be please ?
G Day Marty, Black smoke can mean a blocked air intake as in the inlet hose sucking in or dirty or blocked air cleaner. Another reason for black smoke can be that the implement is getting hard to drive for some reason and the governor is wide open trying to run it. If an injector is leaky that will often show up as white smoke at low revs as there is a lot of un-burnt fuel. I would check filters and inlet first.
To be able to run with so many "systems" out of spec. is a tribute to the design of this engine. It's as though the expectation of neglect of maintenance was built-in; the designers anticipated the indiscipline of the product's owner.....?!!? A tribute to them....
Your pedagogical (sp?) manner is superb, and, even though I'll never own a MF tractor, they've earned my respect and affection. So much easier to comprehend than any "modern" car.....!
It's our hope here that you have a bountifully rainy, summer season.....just as we're expecting a warm but wet winter. Australia is due....some rain...!
Sir. Just bought a 1974 MF135 w/Perkins 3cyl Diesel. Injector pump leaking bad. I found a man that can repair/rebuild the pump; I just need to remove and mail to him. He sent me the link to your video. Thank you for an excellent "how-to" step-by-step tutorial. I'm confident--after watching your video--that I can successfully remove my tractor's pump. Will wait 'til I get the rebuilt pump back before I watch your video on how to install the fuel injector pump on the old 135s. Again, sir, many, many thanks.
Good stuff Im glad you are getting some value from the series.
@@BundyBearsShed Thanks. Ok. I need an expert's help. Got the rebuilt pump back. When I went to install the pump, back end into the timing gear mount plate, I must've pushed through that alignment pin that fits into the keyway on the pump shaft. I had a piece of cloth inside the timing gear box, but it must've slipped past. Any easy way to fish that alignment pin out without removing the whole front gear cover?
@@markdavis2263 If you cant fish itout with a magnet I think the timing cover may need to come off Im afraid.
@@BundyBearsShed Ok, sir. I thank you for your time. Wouldn't happen to be a drain plug at the bottom of that cover, would there?
@@BundyBearsShed Sorry to bother you again, sir. I found the alignment pin just where it is supposed to be. Didn't know
til tonight, with a headlamp, that the pin only extends out toward the injector pump shaft and NOT through the front surface of the timing gear. Dummy me. Sorry for the trouble today. Thanks for helping me, sir.
I'm still using the massey65 I started on at age 9, now I'm 63, you are my go to guy for this tractor, you are doing a great job!
Thanks, That is a great achievement having a tractor that long, my longest ownership is the gold FE35 at 13 years.
Thank you for the video. I took the pump off my MF165, stripped majority of the way down, cleaned, and put back together. Works much better now
Good to hear.
Lance, you've cleared up a few mystery's for me about fuel pump timing and I feel much more confident about it now.
Your video's and your explanations are very clear and easy to follow so thanks once again.
Glad to help
Was very helpful - attempted my first rebuild on an injection pump - and success. Fired right up as it should after ! Thanks
Good Work!
Another excellent video Lance!! I’m almost confident enough to pull the pump off my MF 231 and reseal it. You know your stuff. Wish you were my neighbor! THANK YOU for the videos!
If I was your neighbour we would probably both have a drinking problem, lol.
Great work Lance - you are certainly getting through the break down quickly! Very informative and understandable videos.
Thanks Charles, Yep poking along nicely at present. Its good to keep momentum on a project.
I’d like to thank you for these! I’ve picked up an old MF165 that just stared leaking fuel. Your vids are great quality and easy to understand ( less the way you call your tools lol ). Keep up the great work!
Thanks Rick, Yes tool language differs everywhere it seems, lol.
My dad has a mf 135. 1975 model. The tractor stopped all of a sudden while running. Found lots of dirt in dieselfilter and in the tank. Replaced both filters and cleaned everything else real good. Resealed the pump also, followed your instructions in the video. However, can not get it to run right. Feels like it runs only on two cylinders and it shoots fire out the exhaust. Great videos from you anyway.
Sounds like the timing is wrong. or there is a stuck open injector from a little bit of rubbish.
@@BundyBearsShed do you mean timing of the pump? I put it back exactly as it was. Is there something i can have messed up to cause this? Thank you for answering.
Flames means it is firing when either a valve is open and way out of time normally,
@@BundyBearsShed hi, did a compression test today. Do not have compression on the two first cylinders 😮💨
Blown head gasket then I would think.
Just found your channel You sir should be an instructor great content looking forward to seeing the finished job
Thanks Pat.
I know more about tractors because of this gentleman
Hey I want to thank you very much for doing this video. I have a 1972 MF'r, 203 ci, 4 cyl diesel, Backhoe and it is very similar to your engine and the injector pump was leaking from the top very bad. I thought I knew what I was doing but after reviewing your video I did know what I was doing. Thanks also for going over the timing of the injector pump as well. I did not find the timing marks on the flywheel but I know where the dowel pin is, and the letter for the timing mark on the pump. The engine will not be turned over until after the pump is installled but if something does go wrong I know how to fix it. Many thanks again and keep it going.
You should be good to go by the sound of it.
Lance, I'm picking up a case 580K from a friend. Both of us believe that the timing is off on the injection pump. So thanks so much for all the great information. Loves your video's.
Glad it helped
Thank you so much for these videos, the spring in the top of the injection pump is a pain to get back together.
You bet
Saved me a lot of time on working on the old farm tractor thanks mate!
Thanks Bowie.
Thank you Lance for a very informative video. Keep up the good job, Mick.
Thanks Mick.
Thanks for your video. We now have our injector pump off ready for our next task.
Good luck!
Thanks for translating into American here and there Lance. Helps me keep up!
Im not sure I get the translation correct at times though. lol.
Tasty info Lance, you are the tractor man's bible.
Never been religous before, lol.
Your videos are interesting and helpful for use do it yourself folks. Thanks
Thanks.
Man these are some great videos. Thanks for sharing your knowledge .
Thanks Bill, Glad you like them.
Thanks for sharing, great series so far
Glad you enjoy it!
Thank you this has been very helpful. Just what I needed to know!
Glad it was helpful!
Great little tutorials Lance, they have given me confidence to enter the bandit & wizard territory if ya know what I mean 👍
Good to hear!
Hi. Respectable person. Thanks for your useful videos. I enjoy watching your videos whenever I can. It's great to be an expert and share information I wish you all the best in your work. Thank you very much, sir. MF 148
Thanks for watching!
Yet another top vid... thx for all your hard work... this is really helping me on my 35X....🚜
Thanks Dave
great to follow along with you nice job explaining everything
Thanks Glad you enjoy it.
Excellent instructional video Lance! I’m not afraid to take the pump off my AD3.152 now. It’s leaking a lot of diesel. It’s on a 1998 Massey Ferguson 231 tractor. “WSK” brand CAV injection pump. I’m thinking very hard about trying to reseal it myself. I’m no mechanic, but I have the tools.
THANK YOU
You can do it! Just go slow and take pics if you are not sure.
Great video im working on a volvo bm 320 that has a perkins 913 engine and it looked very similar thank you for a informativ video
Cool, thanks
Great help you a explains you should be a good instructor for every one on this trade Thank you l am from srilanka
So nice of you
I’m surprised that the bolts holding the drive gear into the pump shaft didn’t have locking tabs . Nice trick stuffing some rag in there so if you drop a bolt or washer it can’t end up in the sump , i wonder how many times that has happened ! One thing with setting up timing marks on any engine is if you go past the marks by accident don’t just bump it back to them go back a quarter turn and creep up on them again . If you just bump them back the backlash in the gears or timing chain will stuff up your readings .
G Day Ian, I did drop a bolt once, bloody thing, lol. Yes I will cover the rolling back in case of backlash error when Im assembling things.
.they did have spring washers I believe. ?
Thanks bro.... awesome, informative, well explained video Bundy....well done!!! just about to help me mate do the same on a Ford 230 marine......give it a go ay bro!!!! Cheers
Thanks Kolz, Go for it and have a go.
just about to take my pump off my 35 to clean behind it prior to paint. I dont know if im at tdc but i have lined the pump up with the letter c and theres a hole in the flywheel that will take a 3/8 drill bit. As long as i dont turn over the engine, im hoping to put it back to thase marks. Great tutorials by the way.
Yes you should be fine doing that Mick.
Another great video Lance
Thanks Ian.
Time marches on without us all...flies eternally..
Yep.
Great video I have a MF 255 turning but not cranking, replaced the fuel pump but hasnt been timed, for what letter do I need to align inside the pump when turning it? Thanks a bunch!
I cant be sure but if you get it to tdc on no1 and turn the pump to fire on number one you will see the letter through the side plate.
I have multiple problems with my Perkins 152 3 cyl on MF35. It has blown gaskets on combustion chamber twice and many leaking points on CAV pump and very hard to start (before blowing gaskets). Did my use of a lot of ether to start the tractor blow the gaskets? Is bad timing blowing the gaskets? Hard start due to fuel system air leaks, timing, injectors, or what?
Any how, your videos are really upping my chance of getting things fixed. Thank you, Doug.
Try cutting the gaskets to just a circle and see if that helps, if the combustion chamber flange is bent the circle gasket can help.
Lance
I was always under the impression adjustable wrenches were called nut f***ers.
Cheers Eric
Yep they are but not on TH-cam, lol.
Im just warching this..its soooo .infirmative. iv a citreon, u25.2.5 diesel.. with a cav pump... waw i hope your still out there..i wonder ware you are in austriala..what part..
Bundaberg Qld.
Hi Lance ,
If my undesrtanding is correct when the E mark on the pump is aligned with the flat end of the inj pump inner circlip and the piston #1 is
close to its TDC (firing) then you can read on the flywheel the exatc timing. The E matches with the flat end of the circlip only when the piston#1 is firing and not whan it is pushing the exhaust.. am I right?
Thank you again for your valuable vids.
Yes
thanks! Is this also the time when the 3 marks on idle timing gear are in lein tihe the marks on camshaft, injection pump and crankshaft)?
So, if I did all that ,everything is working, just not enough pressure to push the fuel to injectors, I changed the head and still same thing, when I do it on the bench, it just barley bubbles at the head, whereas yours spits out enough to hit the camera lol. And thanks for the help your video was right on
Thanks.
@@BundyBearsShed . So do you think the head is bad If I don't get the pressure to it like yours does? I should say it is a cav same as the 1 in this video. Thanks
Great video thank you
Very welcome
Crescent wrench is actually a brand , but that is what most people call them , should say adjustable wrench or spanner .
Shifter over here.
Is it the same set up on a truck aswell Thanks for the video mate 👍
I believe so
Hi Lance
Would you happen to know which way do I move the pump to advance timing on Massey 165 with the 212 engine! I just want to see does it improve the starting if I move it one or two degrees
Thanks Wesley
Look on the side and on the little plate there will be an arrow showing pump rotation, go opposite to the way the arrow is pointing.
Hello Bundy. I rebuilt my pump and put it back on. It is now running away when I crank it. The throttle doesn’t help at all. Blowing tons of white smoke and extremely high idle. Is it out of time or something else wrong?
It sounds like you have the top spring in the wrong hole and / or a sticky metering valve.
Saludos desde Trujillo, Venezuela tienes vídeos en bombas de inyección perkins,6354 cuántas lbs lleva un inyector??😊
probably around 2600 psi
Hi thank you for a great video. Is there a way to find TDC on a mf 35 without taking the timing cover off? I thought I’d ask the guru! Thanks again
G Day Philip, Look at the lines on the back of the flywheel under the rubber on the left of the backing plate.
I had to subscribe to your channel, I've got a question for you and I really hope that you've encountered it...
I'm working on a LONG 350, the metering valve has been cutting into the housing assembly and has it scored where it he's been scraping away at the aluminum.
When, I first started purging the lines, the injectors were barely pushing fuel out of the lines. They were just trickling diesel out.
Popped the cover and there's some minor aluminum shavings at the top, just below the governor.
Any clue as to what could cause the metering valve arm to score the housing up and do you believe the seals are potentially damaged?
It's been a fine tractor, but she sat all winter... That's what brought the discovery on. I can do some pictures or video if needed.
Thank you sir
The metering valve should have the steel bracket holding it down and in place, has that been broken? Pics can be sent to bundybearsshed@gmail.com
Hi lance, I have a 1963 Massey Ferguson 65 diesel that I had running for a few seconds but can’t seem to get to to fire again and stay running. It has professionally rebuilt fuel injection pump and injectors. I also just put a new starter motor in it and still can’t get it to run. Was wondering if you had any ideas? Thank you Ryan
Is is sucking air? it does sound like it may be, fit new filters and check flow before bleeding.
Vary good video would you time a jinma tractor the same way? And thank you for your time in advance .
Im not sure on a Jimna but the theory of engine timing is the same on all engines so hopefully it is similar.
Cheers lance, I was hoping that you would have completed the old TEF 4 cyl. pump setup before starting on the 135. ... :) never mind, I expect I will be able to work it out somehow.... ? :)
Im not starting on the TEf for some time, too many other things in the way , lol.
Great informative video Lance, i have one question, i bought a brand new injector pump for my 1979 Ford 335 tractor (3 cylinder diesel), when i remove the old pump and install the new pump and realign it at the same timing marks on the pump and the timing cover mark will i be ok ? as long as i dont fire or rotate the engine.
G Day Bob, Yes you should be fine as the timing marks will have been set up on a test bench.
Great, Thanks so much for the fast replay, your videos are the best. Have a great day!!@@BundyBearsShed
worked like a charm, installed new pump and bleed system and got it running, running like a champ now, Thanks!!!@@BundyBearsShed
hi lance
thanks for your expertise. i have a JD 1640. i was stupid and put 50~50 cooking oil in it. gued all the lines up, thing that looks like a chunk of liver in the tank and snapped the pump shaft,
i know ,idiot. i got a second hand pump from a 2040 with a turbo and manifold. turbo connector to exhaust is missing so i hopefully will put the pump on ( which im a bit scared to as all i did was to remove the pump not lining up the marks and hopefully dont drop the keyway????) and i was told it may smoke a bit?? ttfn Dave (Scotland)
It may but I think it will be fine, i would certainly do it. Timing should be fine like you say dont drop the key and line the flange marks up and it should be good to go.
@@BundyBearsShed Hi Lance thanks very much for your reply, you have inspired me to get on with it 😃 Kind regards Dave
Hello I'm having some issues with my Massey Ferguson 35 it has the three cylinder Perkins diesel engine and the tractor overall runs pretty well the odd time you'll have a misfire but the issue I'm having is it has what I believe is a power loss at high RPM tractor will work fine and all its a low-range gears but if I put it in to say hi range first gear and I'm only at around half throttle the tractor will take off but then if you give it any more throttle it has no response if you give it 3/4 to Full Throttle and then depress the clutch pedal it will not rev up but as soon as you release the clutch pedal again it'll go back down to its half throttle when it does this it doesn't lug or make any weird sounds or misfires it still runs as good as it ever did it's almost like you lower the throttle whenever you release the clutch in a high range gear any help would be greatly appreciated I'm thinking it could be fuel filters fuel injection pump or possibly a bad injector but I do not know for sure I have not had the tractor for long and I'm new two diesel engines thanks
G Day Noah, Im thinking filters would be the first and cheapest option. After that look a bit deeper.
Bundy, can you get access to the plunger rollers from this side plate if the plungers are a little stuck without taking the pump appart again.
No Im afraid not.
Thank you so much!
You're welcome!
Sorry I spammed some unnecessary comments back there which I deleted. My question is: on these perkins what happens if I turned the crank while pump was out? If I am not mistaken the pump goes on only in one way because of that pin and the only possible adjustment is the tilting of the pump itself right ? my mf 35 x won't start. It always had starting problems. Im thinking it's the timing because it used to run fine after it fired as long as I can remember. I was a bit lost with this timing thing though. Is it possible the professionals I gave the pump to to be cleaned installed the circlip at a different spot and I have to compensate with different tilt? Is it possible they install it so low that I cannot time it properly anymore or is the circlip just an indicator and irrelevant to when the pump fires? My circlip seems quite low in comparison to this videos example. I will have to check letter E and see what degrees I get on the flywheel when aligned with the circlip. I fear I might have to open the timing gears and see if they are not aligned if I try all else. Am I missing anything?
If it has been turned you need to start from scratch and set it up by the flywheel with it firing on number 1.
My compliments for all the videos you published on CAV topic. I am in trouble to remove the CAV pump from my Massey ferguson 178, 4 cylinders perkins not starting more from long time now. I undestood it is necessary to make timing phase positioning before to remove the CAV pump. I am not finding the window to check the timing in the flywhell in my tractor but looking your video you show that the CAV pump come back only in one place into the distribution gear. My doubt is: if the CAV pump make in one turn of 360 degree all the injection process for the fours cylenders is not important to check the timing before remove the pump. I mean, if the pump axes connection to the distribution gear is fixed by abliged interface positioning, during the mounting phase is not possible to make mistake with timing. Please i will appreciate a sggestion if possible to proceed in that way. Thanks Luigi
Just undo the side plate from the pump and line it up with any letter and make sure you put it back in the same place and you should be good.
@@BundyBearsShed Perfect! thanks for the technical support. I will proceed to remove the pump from the tractor during next WE. i will see.
i have a kubota v4000 with the same pump. if i remove the pump , put a couple new gaskets, and put it back in without turning the motor, i should be fine right?
I think so.
Just found your channel, been battling with a Massey Ferguson 185 with a Perkins a4-248 engine, I can't get it to start, seems out of time. Set the engine in tdc, lined up the pump with the marks. But It doest fire. Is there any marks on the flywheel as well?
Yes there is a rubber plug usually on the back of the flywheel and timing marks there. You could possibly be 1 turn of the crankshaft out of time.
Is this the same process for removing a Ferguson FE35 Injection pump, and have you got a video for it, thanks
No video yet but similar job checking the letter inside then replacing it in the same place.
Awesome content as usual, Lance! As you don’t like RTV, what would you recommend for sealing the gear/transmission case on a Kubota lawn tractor? Anaerobic sealant of some sort? Thanks.
I would go for Loctite 55 or Bareco R5 in Australia as it is the same stuff and far cheaper.
Great, thanks Lance!
Make that Bareco R51
Deebo1812 . . Transmissions and differentials that require a gear oil that has Friction Modifiers , require a special sealant !! It took me 3 times to get the transaxle on my Case Backhoe sealed ! I finally used. Permatex . Gear Oil RTV Gasket Maker#81184
NOTE- both surfaces must be absolutely clean & oil free !
Good job for hello.
I have a question.
For example, is there anything that can be done to use the 3241f350 diesel pump (T4.236) instead of the 3348f230 diesel pump for the perkins 4.236?
I think some others would bolt straight up but it might over fuel at times.
Thank you
You're welcome
I need to replace an o-ring in my injection pump on a 710 John Deere ( Lanz) . Would you say this is simular to my tractor even though mine is a 4 cylinder ? I live in Canada and can,t seem to find any info on Lanz ( built in Manheim Germany ) Thanks for the video .
G Day James, If the pump looks similar it will be the same as they were used often. I cant say I am familiar with the pump on the 710 though.
hey Lance rebuilt my pump on my 1974 Massey Fergerson 135 do you have to wire it up to full throttle when re-installing? Because I didn't and it is missing. Runs great and out again, runs great and out again. Can skipping that part cause this. Thanks Michael
No I dont think it would possibly re check the spring positions.
Hey lance. thank you for another great video.
i have a jcb 410 1986 with a perkins 4.236, the hydraulic head on the pump broke last week so i took it apart and changed the head. Now i have refitted it to the engine and aligned the marks on the engine and on the pump But it wont fire up.
So i want to check the timing, only problem is that i cant find any plates or covers on the flywheel housing to check the marks on the flywheel. And on my enginge the starter is located on the fuel pump side of the engine, not on the lift pump side.
is there any other way to check if the engine is in tdc?
You can drop the tappet cover off and get no4 rocking, the pump should only go on one way though due to the dowell in the gear.
@@BundyBearsShed yes i have assembled the same way as it was before i took it off the engine and i have tested bleeding the piping to the injectors to make sure it comes diesel from the pump. So far i havent seem to find where the problem is.
The hydraulic head that was fitted before was a 344S and the new i fitted in is a 344L. Do you happen to know what the difference between these are? I cant seem to find any specs online
Very very Thankyou
Most welcome
Love watching your clips , very informative. I have a question, can you remove the advance timing unit under a CVA DPA pump to fix a leak without disturbing any settings.
Yes you can!
Hi Lance, winter time here in Europe and taking the chance to look again to your tutorials as I am thinking to have my CAV DPA on a AD3152 re-sealed-
My main concern is the timing: how can I have the right timing without tearing the engine head down.
If my understanding is correct I need to get the piston #1 at TDC (this can be done by taking off the valve train cover and see the valve tappets, when cylinder #3 exhausts valve is fully open) and then make sure E marks on pumps is aligned with square circlips end.
In this occasion I simply can hate the pump taken off - resealed and back again (with E mars aligned.) thus keeping the original timing as per flywheel mark.
Where am I getting lost????
Thank you Lance
Because the injection pump gear has a dowel it can only go back on in the correct place, Line up your marks on the bolt up flange and you are right to go. You are over thinking it a little. It really doesnt matter where the engine is if you take note of the flange marks.
@@BundyBearsShed Do you refer to the marks to the timing gear backplate and the one on the pump flange? They now seem to be a little (1mm) misaligned, I guess they was set some time ago.. My aim was to take it off just without removing neither the engine head nor the timing Gera front cover…
Thank you Lance
@@giemme4492 pump flange
@@BundyBearsShed so pump flange mark and timing gear backplate marks shoulf be aligned.
then i can just disregard where the engine is? no need to check if the E is in line with the square circlip edge?
@@giemme4492 Yes
I’m about to take mine off off a 245 Massey to have rebuilt. So I should take inspection cover off make sure letter is align with mark. Then when I get it back take cover back off and make sure same letter is aligned ?
Yes thats it.
Bundy Bears Shed thank you still new to it gonna tackle it next day or so was pretty worried about messing something up
Hi i have a ford 3600 tractor i just done a pump reseal on at your specifications and when i put it back on the tractor and got it running, it runs but it dont throttle up high and i cant get any power out of the tractor. At full throttle , it is only running a little above idle. what have i done wrong?
You have the top spring in the wrong hole.
@@BundyBearsShed that's what i thought but i pulled the cap back off and it was where it was when i took it off. i made a diagram before i took it off. it will throttle at times and other times it wont. would it hurt to try it in the bottom hole and see. I took it out of the second hole on both the lever and the governor.
Today i removed my CAV DPA from my marine Ford Lehman 120. 2715e
And i the whole pump came out with gear and everything. The gear tuned and i lost what timing i had. I checked the manual but cat see where the timing angle should be😢
Im gonma do an overhaul of the pump but im a bit concerned how to get it back in with correct timimg.
Look for a mark on the flywheel then line no 1 up when it fires
@@BundyBearsShed Thank you sir. I found it umder the motor hehe. I had to use a mirror to se.
Witam serdecznie z Polski u mnie w silniku ad3.152 są oznaczenia na kole zamachowym 16 ' 20' 24' a w instrukcji napraw jest napisane 16' na ile ustawić
Just go by the book and it will be ok.
A ile ty ustawiasz w tym silniku na filmie
Hi Lance, rebuilt an ad3 152, when fitting the flywheel i never thought about the timing marks. The engine has no rocker cover or injectors yet so pistons are visible but how would i time the engine without having the flywheel mark?
Thanks
Use the pistons at top dead center and work from there
Hi, good job. What happens with the timing if the pump is new? Thanks.
It should be set from factory.
In Scotland it’s a shifter
Shifter here too.
Be careful! If the pump has been restored, mechanics tend not to care too much about the positioning of reference circip! I've been told by the Bosch mechanic that he and most of the others just put it there so it holds the rotor assembly. So if your pump is not new you can't trust the only accurate method. It sucks but it's worth knowing.
Yes but if you know your starting point you can refer back to that when assembling again.
@Bundy Bears Shed Good Morning.Thank you also in the comment.As you mentioned, idling goes back to normal when I hold cold water on the pump element.What exactly is the procedure we need to do?Can it be due to the X blades in the inner part?Can I repair myself.Respects.
Replied above
Hi there! Working on a MF165 -65 (first tractor), what started as a clutch replacement became a general overhaul. So I took the clutch including flywheel of the tractor, changed the rope seal etc. Just came across this section of your series when I was assembling the flywheel. When I have the 22 degree mark I got the letter F lining up in the fuel pump. Just have the timing instruction for the 3 cylinder one wich should be "E", myself have an 4 cylinder (Perkins AD4 203) What do you reckon? Is it going to miss fire? Thank you very much for uploading this series, more or less done all the job with your help! =)
Greets from northern Sweden!
/Christian
I dont think it would miss fire but it is possible that you can be one full turn of the crank out as the crank turns twice to one turn of the injection pump. Im not sure what letter the 203 should be on.
@@BundyBearsShed ok, thank you for your answer! I'll try and find some more info on the 203! 😀
in canada we call an adjustable wrench a "metric fit all"
Howdy lance, I m looking for fuel pump for a 310A
Same as on a JD 2030, 2140 etc. In
Australia they are on our web site.
Hey mate did the my 135 ever come out with a straight front axle?
Yes I have one they called it the heavy duty axle, a later tractor.
Bundy Bears Shed thanks my grandads my 135 has a straight axle and I’ve never seen another with one.
They are an awesome tractor the amount of work they can do is incredible( if you know how to operate).
Thank you very much for the videos and answering my question the knowledge you have deserves to be passed on in some manner so pls keep the vids coming.
In fact you cannot put the pump back in the wrong place, because of the dowel, the timing gear cannot jump so it is impossible to get it wrong.
No this is for the hobbyist having a go for the first time, it gives enough info to give people encouragement to have a go at their own repairs.
I'm baffled as to why they'd use the movable circlip as the reference point to the timing marks. Move the circlip, and the timing marks become completely irrelevant. (and yes, I understand you stress the importance of maintaining that circlip's position. I just don't know why they didn't just machine the reference into the body casting)
They can time a pump to each manufacturers spec then I would presume.
Do you have a video on roosa master pump?
no I Havent got to do one.
3:10 "Adjustable nut rounder"
Can be
Why don't you clean the water runways on the block?
They seem to have a lot of crap in them
Flushed before starting the tractor.
What if you don’t put back the c clip where it needs to be
Tractor will run fine but you will have to pay a little more attention to timing the pump.
The pump needs to come off my Perkins AD3.152 (Massey 231) to have it resealed. I have watched this video over and over and I still don’t understand. It’s my fault Lance, not yours. Thanks for all your videos though.
Just pull the plate off the side of the pump and line the mark up with any letter and put it back in the same spot.
@@BundyBearsShed finally got the injector pump off my AD3.152 engine. My mechanic friend came and took it off last week. I sent it off to have it resealed. I’m waiting to hear back from it now.
I serviced my 185 Massey fuel pump just like you did and the tractor won't start now 🤷
Bleed it well.
@@BundyBearsShed i did but I'm worried if I messed up the timing
You call that adjustable wrench a knuckle Skinner
They can be
YEE HAA
lol.
@@BundyBearsShed Your video help me alot with the problem i was having thank you .
His the 240 the same pump
Thanks super
Yes
Tracteur imt pump jekion
Inj pump.
I am India MF 1035 fuel pump timing
Im not sure, not a model I have here.
Hi
Hello
I have a perkins d3152 in my licorice welding mechen but there is not a cover or a hole on the flywheel where is it timing mark
١١١١
?
Hi, I have a 135 with a perkins 3 cylinder diesel. I dont use it that much, when i got it out this year it was very hard to start and blew a lot of black smoke, and now is very low on power. I am a mechanic of 40 years but know little about these engines. I cracked each injector line and it seems to run on 3 cylinders but better on 3 than 1 or 2.I swapped around the injectors but it didnt change, the pump leaks a little fuel. It seems to have compression. What to you think the problem could be please ?
G Day Marty, Black smoke can mean a blocked air intake as in the inlet hose sucking in or dirty or blocked air cleaner. Another reason for black smoke can be that the implement is getting hard to drive for some reason and the governor is wide open trying to run it. If an injector is leaky that will often show up as white smoke at low revs as there is a lot of un-burnt fuel. I would check filters and inlet first.