"Chrysler: Producer of Low Quality" You ain't kidding, Mac! Thank you VERY VERY MUCH for this video, it really does a good job of showing how all the bits fit and what the damage is. Considering my mechanic just listened for a few seconds and said, "Replace the engine", this gives me at least the possibility of a more affordable option. Thank you!
Thanks for the video! Great stuff. I beg to differ though, you said the 3.8 isn't such a great motor- while I can agree that performance sucks from the 3.8, the longevity is pretty good. This is assuming you keep oil in it, and keep up on maintenance. I own a 2008 Unlimited and a Jeep mechanic I met spoke nothing but good things about this engine. All things said, yes I would prefer the Pentastar engine if I had a choice. Or really, if it were available, I would like the old 4.0 straight six!
I've had way too many engines, lol. Compared to the I6 this motor is not great for a Jeep, better for a minivan. I'm at 120k it's never hit the Rev limiter. Its always hesitated when cold. It has always rattled in the top end and now has some piston slap. It doesn't use or lose oil. It's changed every 1500 to 2500 because it dirties the oil so fast. I'm going to build a 3.8 and see if I can enjoy owning it.
I’m on motor number 3 at 116,000 miles and I check my oil religiously. These motors are shit. I hate the 3.8 with a passion. The caravan motor is not the exact same motor internally and it does have a long live span. Maybe that’s why you mechanic said that.
Dry starts beat the bearings up . I have to do clear flood mode starts all winter . So it doesn't rattle when it does start . At first it sounded like lifter noise , filling up . Cold start the other day and it hammered . These engines are junk . Oil drains back no matter what filter you use .
At least 2 of the mains are cross bolted. I don't think you can do those unless you take the motor off the mounts and move it enough to get the bolts in and out. I do use spray cleaner to check oil paths, usually brake cleaner if there is a reason, like a spun bearing. If it is clogged I imagine it wouldn't last very long. I clean by putting Marv's Miracle in the oil for a bit before each change.
These are cast rod caps. So they must match where they came off, right ? Problem is - someone moved them on me- I had them all set how they came out. 😢 So, yeah- since they aren't marked- this is gonna take some doin. Anything you can do about this ?
Great video! thanks. My LeSabre is not worth a new engine- rather buy another lesabre. My knock sounds like a hammer tapping on the block. Mech put a stethescope on the oil pan and right under piston #1 it's loudest. I put a quart of Lucas Stablizer on top of the 5 quarts of normal oil and I baby the car and stay off highways. I'm in Vegas- it's flat and I can get around real light on the throttle. But mechanics all tell me the knocking (from piston 1) is not fixable- even if you did all the work it would be the same price as a used engine and install. But this job looks a little simpler than I thought. What if I get a mech to pull the pan and replace just the piston #1 bearings, regardless of the shape of the crank surface, it will still be better than it is now. I realize that soon I'll be back where I am and then worse, but seems like a $400 might get me farther down the road before junking that car. You say if the crank is badly scored there's no point in just replacing bearings. I'm thinking a few hundred buck might get me a several more months. Whatcha think?
It could be simple and effective, or the crank is scored and a new bearing will just be junked immediately. I couldn't say without seeing what is causing the knocking and why. Remember the rod connects to the piston as well and although much less likely, it could be at the piston (pull the head). It really all depends upon what that crank looks like! My father did this exact same thing in his LeSabre and solved his knocking.
Cool. Thx. So what did your father do? Just replace a bearing or two? Mech says because this car sat for a year, maybe some thing gummed you and prevented oil from reaching that piston so maybe you’re right about the knocking coming from the top piston area. I baby the car and the knocking hasn’t gotten worse.
Mate, I had a question for you. When you did these roller bearings. Was the cylinder head on or off? I just did a 6 pk piston and ring replacement. And I was not familair with the roller bearings at the time. The reason I ask is, I have a knock and i am pretty sure it is rod knock from the bearings(which I will be testing today). I am still researching if I can do a set screw roll in as opposed to pulling everything off . Would appreciate a response if possible
No need to remove heads. The rod bearings can be done without rolling. Those are easy once you get the pan off. The crank bearings must be rolled in and you can't get the cross bolted caps off of 2? Of them. Pull the motor to get all crank bearings.
@@ntaubitz I went back under and did your side to side motion. And up I most definitely have a few talking to me. Now I just need to figure out the size roller bearings and then I’m good..thanks for the great vid. Help tremendously
Thanks for making this video. Just curious, at this point, how many miles are on those bearings & how are they doing (quiet? Oil consumption?) Thanks very much again!
Just ordered a set of bearings for my 07. Has 215,000 on it so who knows at this point?Been knocking on start ups so I stopped driving it. Hopefully this fixes the problem. If not LS Swap it is... How long did this take? 2-3 hours?
Here's a question... I have what sounds like possible low end knocking on a 2011 Wrangler, 125k miles, no oil consumption. Happens when engine is warmed up, only from idle up to about 1200rpm, and removing the serpentine belt makes the noise go away. However, replacing the tensioner and idler pulleys have not fixed the issue and the noise remains. Would removing the serpantine belt have any effect on this rod bearing knock? Or am I dealing with something else entirely?
if it is rod or main bearings then it gets worse under load. If it is an automatic you can hold the brakes in Drive and apply throttle. The knock will get worse. A manual you can push against a tree or something. If this goes away when the belt is off, a 2011 is still a 3.8, removing the belt doesn't spin the alternator, steering pump and A/C compressor. That's pretty solid sign it is one of those, these accessories aren't going to change a rod knocking. If you run max A/C does it change? If you turn the wheels left and right does it change? With the belt off do any of these three have any play at all? Can you move one of them up and down or in and out? They should spin freely and without any little "catch" or knock. A bad steering pump tends to "wine" not knock. An alternator can knock if the stators go bad. The A/C pump has a clutch and is the most likely accessory to "knock". If it is a manual, does it do it with the clutch pedal down? Wrangler clutches tend to have knock sounds at idle when the throw out bearing starts to go bad but again, removing the belt and the sound goes away it is almost certainly 1. the A/C compressor, 2. the alternator, or 3. power steering pump.
@ntaubitz You, sir, are a gentleman and a scholar! It's a manual. Didn't get worse or even noticeable under load, its basically just at idle, and if i raise the RPMs above around 1200, by 1500 the sound is gone. Max AC doesn't change it, neither does turning the wheels. It makes the noise with the clutch in or out, and in gear or neutral. It's a rhythmic chug/pulse/knocking and seems to be around the passenger side, and lower in the engine, which is why it seemed odd that removing the belt made it go away. I'm trying to chase this down, new-to-me 2011 Wrangler, took it to a "Jeep shop" (who said they hate 3.8s, AFTER they did the work) for baseline fluids, plugs, etc and they pointed out the noise. They said definitely piston slap or wrist pin, start the process to replace the engine under your 3 month warranty. That seemed extreme, since the thing runs great it's just making this noise. So, I took it to a trusted general mechanic who popped off the belt, and we noticed the sound disappeared. So, they replaced the tensioner and belt first, still made the noise by the time I got home, so they replaced the idler next. I noticed the sound got better but then returned after a couple days. I appreciate your insight! I can send you the video the first shop took, if you care to listen to it?
@ntaubitz And if I can also ask... removing the belt eliminates the noise, wouldn't it stand to reason that it would NOT be the a/c, alternator, or power steering? It should be one of the pulleys along the belt, no? And if the belt being off was a fluke, then I'm back to possibly rob bearing? Thanks! I posted the short video on my channel if you could take a look?
I replaced rod and main bearings with the same size but not OEM manufacturer. At that time I bought from a higher quality manufacturer but I can't remember who.
@@jayceeleon .025 is not standard.. Standard is just that..No numbers will be added.. And if you choose too do this. use the King Bearings..They will last..Think they are like $40.00 for set..
Are they broken caps (07-09)? Those only fit back together one way. If not, maybe they are marked somehow? Look for a stamp or marking that would be along the parting line. Next best would be to put the cap on the rod without bearings and make sure that cap fits perfectly on that rod.
Again, broken caps ONLY GO ONE WAY. When they are broken, the pattern is unique and the cap will only fit the rod. The rod is bored out and then broken in half.
Great video! I have a knocking from my cranckshaft andy mechanic will inspect the bearings and replace them if needed. I hope my crankshaft is not finished. How was the result?
Jknikos no more knocking when starting it but it didnt make any noticeable difference in mileage or oil getting dirty. I feel more confident in the motor though. After this I did the timing chain because I noticed it was bad doing the bearings. You might as well do the timing chain at the same time and that did make a big difference in how the engine runs.
Make sure you look at the crank. If the surface is not perfectly polished, then your new bearings will just get ruined quickly. If the crank bearing surface is good, then this is for sure worth doing before doing an engine swap. If I did an engine swap with a used engine, I would DEFINITELY replace the bearings, included mains, before installing the engine. The 3.8 is notorious for spinning bearings.
nate taubitz it was scratched very bad, the bearing was rolled, anyway i put the new one and the knocking go away for few minutes. I already have the replace engine. I learn how do something new in the process thank for the video.
When the bearing spins, the oil ports no longer line up. So it is starved of oil and that's what scores the crank. Do yourself a favor and put new bearings in the replacement engine before swapping it. It's almost impossible to change the cross bolted main bearings when the engine is in the vehicle. You'll replace the oil pan and riser gaskets which tend to leak on these at the same time.
Chrysler used two cast rods, a 4448904 in the earlier engines and 4654356 from ’01 through ’06. The 0015 powdered metal rod with the cracked cap was used from ’07 through ’09. www.enginebuildermag.com/2010/03/rebuilding-the-chrysler-3-3l3-8l-engine/
I change my oil, with Mobil1 synthetic every 2500 or so. My motor works hard and sees a lot of RPMs. It all depends upon what your motor goes through. This motor is notoriously dirty(oil) and in an offroad environment gets packed with mud often. If it doesn't get too hot and you keep slick oil in it, they should go basically for the life of the motor. Spun bearings tend to happen with dirty oil and high RPM. Stay out of the RPMs with dirty oil.
It's not a high performance engine. So no, there aren't easy options for different sizes. I used the higher quality (forget the brand) bearings and didn't measure the gaps. The rattles went away and it's been running fine for almost 2 years.
@@misterkota1252 get some plastigauge, measure the current gap, then get the right size over to bring it back into spec, or use a micrometer (but this is definitely not the best way, normally you’d have a machine shop check and true up the journals.)
It is just a technique mostly for main bearings. I used a higher quality OEM fit replacement set of bearings for the rods and you don't need to roll them in because the rod can swing away after the cap is removed.
You put a wrench on the front of the engine on the balancer (front of crank). The connecting rods for broken caps is 20 ft/lb + 90degrees and for the forged it is 40 ft/lb + 90degrees
Yes. I changed oil and there was NO metal sheen or anything in there. It has been like -5F here and when I start it up, it no longer has that low knock for a few seconds. Once it is warm, it is smoother above 3500rpm than it used to be. Somewhere up top, probably a lifter I get more of a rattle until it gets warm, that's something different. This was a very time consuming repair, but it was pretty cheap and so it was definitely worth doing for me. I drive from state to state and go wheeling so I like to do preventative maintenance rather than wait until it breaks and I'm stranded. Plus, doing this will increase the life of the crank.
nate taubitz this is awesome, thank you for your reply. I started my jeep on Friday evening and it spun upon startup. I’m going to do this in the next couple of weekends when it warms up. Thanks again for the vid
No. This is Chrysler not GM/Buick but the same general technique would be used. They are both a V motor and the same bearing strategy is used basically in all motors. As long as the crank surfaces are good you can put new bearings in making sure the oil channels are aligned.
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"Chrysler: Producer of Low Quality" You ain't kidding, Mac! Thank you VERY VERY MUCH for this video, it really does a good job of showing how all the bits fit and what the damage is. Considering my mechanic just listened for a few seconds and said, "Replace the engine", this gives me at least the possibility of a more affordable option. Thank you!
I never knew Ryan Reynolds did rod bearings!!
Really Cool that you thought to put this up on tube. Thanks heaps!
I hear the King bearings are good bearings .Getting them for my 2011 .
Clear flood starts , in the winter time , pre oils the motor .
Thanks for the video! Great stuff. I beg to differ though, you said the 3.8 isn't such a great motor- while I can agree that performance sucks from the 3.8, the longevity is pretty good. This is assuming you keep oil in it, and keep up on maintenance. I own a 2008 Unlimited and a Jeep mechanic I met spoke nothing but good things about this engine.
All things said, yes I would prefer the Pentastar engine if I had a choice. Or really, if it were available, I would like the old 4.0 straight six!
I've had way too many engines, lol. Compared to the I6 this motor is not great for a Jeep, better for a minivan. I'm at 120k it's never hit the Rev limiter. Its always hesitated when cold. It has always rattled in the top end and now has some piston slap. It doesn't use or lose oil. It's changed every 1500 to 2500 because it dirties the oil so fast. I'm going to build a 3.8 and see if I can enjoy owning it.
I’m on motor number 3 at 116,000 miles and I check my oil religiously. These motors are shit. I hate the 3.8 with a passion. The caravan motor is not the exact same motor internally and it does have a long live span. Maybe that’s why you mechanic said that.
I subscribed I like your since of humor !!!
Dry starts beat the bearings up . I have to do clear flood mode starts all winter . So it doesn't rattle when it does start . At first it sounded like lifter noise , filling up . Cold start the other day and it hammered . These engines are junk . Oil drains back no matter what filter you use .
Did you shoot cleaner into the oil outlets and see that they were clear of debris ?
Also, the mains- did you pull them.
Having trouble pulling #2
At least 2 of the mains are cross bolted. I don't think you can do those unless you take the motor off the mounts and move it enough to get the bolts in and out. I do use spray cleaner to check oil paths, usually brake cleaner if there is a reason, like a spun bearing. If it is clogged I imagine it wouldn't last very long. I clean by putting Marv's Miracle in the oil for a bit before each change.
@@ntaubitzappreciate you gettin bzck to ne on it man. Thanks.
These are cast rod caps.
So they must match where they came off, right ?
Problem is - someone moved them on me- I had them all set how they came out. 😢
So, yeah- since they aren't marked- this is gonna take some doin. Anything you can do about this ?
I just got a knock in my jeep last night. Thinking it spun a bearing. Pulling it apart later today.
Do it before it scores the crank! Happy wrenching.
Great video! thanks. My LeSabre is not worth a new engine- rather buy another lesabre. My knock sounds like a hammer tapping on the block. Mech put a stethescope on the oil pan and right under piston #1 it's loudest. I put a quart of Lucas Stablizer on top of the 5 quarts of normal oil and I baby the car and stay off highways. I'm in Vegas- it's flat and I can get around real light on the throttle. But mechanics all tell me the knocking (from piston 1) is not fixable- even if you did all the work it would be the same price as a used engine and install. But this job looks a little simpler than I thought. What if I get a mech to pull the pan and replace just the piston #1 bearings, regardless of the shape of the crank surface, it will still be better than it is now. I realize that soon I'll be back where I am and then worse, but seems like a $400 might get me farther down the road before junking that car. You say if the crank is badly scored there's no point in just replacing bearings. I'm thinking a few hundred buck might get me a several more months. Whatcha think?
It could be simple and effective, or the crank is scored and a new bearing will just be junked immediately. I couldn't say without seeing what is causing the knocking and why. Remember the rod connects to the piston as well and although much less likely, it could be at the piston (pull the head). It really all depends upon what that crank looks like! My father did this exact same thing in his LeSabre and solved his knocking.
Cool. Thx. So what did your father do? Just replace a bearing or two? Mech says because this car sat for a year, maybe some thing gummed you and prevented oil from reaching that piston so maybe you’re right about the knocking coming from the top piston area. I baby the car and the knocking hasn’t gotten worse.
@@joephillips7612 Rod bearings were replaced. The parts are cheap, the labor expensive.
Mate, I had a question for you. When you did these roller bearings. Was the cylinder head on or off? I just did a 6 pk piston and ring replacement. And I was not familair with the roller bearings at the time. The reason I ask is, I have a knock and i am pretty sure it is rod knock from the bearings(which I will be testing today). I am still researching if I can do a set screw roll in as opposed to pulling everything off . Would appreciate a response if possible
No need to remove heads. The rod bearings can be done without rolling. Those are easy once you get the pan off. The crank bearings must be rolled in and you can't get the cross bolted caps off of 2? Of them. Pull the motor to get all crank bearings.
@@ntaubitz I went back under and did your side to side motion. And up I most definitely have a few talking to me. Now I just need to figure out the size roller bearings and then I’m good..thanks for the great vid. Help tremendously
Thanks for making this video. Just curious, at this point, how many miles are on those bearings & how are they doing (quiet? Oil consumption?) Thanks very much again!
It doesn't lose or burn any oil. I'm not sure the miles but it's been doing great.
Is it still going I bought my 2 door jk in March 2007. Have 457 k on odometer. Had 2 back to back engine failures. Have thought about doing this
Just ordered a set of bearings for my 07. Has 215,000 on it so who knows at this point?Been knocking on start ups so I stopped driving it. Hopefully this fixes the problem. If not LS Swap it is... How long did this take? 2-3 hours?
I guess it depends upon your ability. It took me a bit longer shooting video. That sounds about right if I was just doing the job.
I did this on my BMW. Easy fix but dropping subframe and all other crap to get to it was a pain. Bearing replacement for 6, hour max
What size bearings did you go back together with ?
Here's a question... I have what sounds like possible low end knocking on a 2011 Wrangler, 125k miles, no oil consumption. Happens when engine is warmed up, only from idle up to about 1200rpm, and removing the serpentine belt makes the noise go away. However, replacing the tensioner and idler pulleys have not fixed the issue and the noise remains. Would removing the serpantine belt have any effect on this rod bearing knock? Or am I dealing with something else entirely?
if it is rod or main bearings then it gets worse under load. If it is an automatic you can hold the brakes in Drive and apply throttle. The knock will get worse. A manual you can push against a tree or something. If this goes away when the belt is off, a 2011 is still a 3.8, removing the belt doesn't spin the alternator, steering pump and A/C compressor. That's pretty solid sign it is one of those, these accessories aren't going to change a rod knocking. If you run max A/C does it change? If you turn the wheels left and right does it change? With the belt off do any of these three have any play at all? Can you move one of them up and down or in and out? They should spin freely and without any little "catch" or knock. A bad steering pump tends to "wine" not knock. An alternator can knock if the stators go bad. The A/C pump has a clutch and is the most likely accessory to "knock". If it is a manual, does it do it with the clutch pedal down? Wrangler clutches tend to have knock sounds at idle when the throw out bearing starts to go bad but again, removing the belt and the sound goes away it is almost certainly 1. the A/C compressor, 2. the alternator, or 3. power steering pump.
@ntaubitz You, sir, are a gentleman and a scholar! It's a manual. Didn't get worse or even noticeable under load, its basically just at idle, and if i raise the RPMs above around 1200, by 1500 the sound is gone. Max AC doesn't change it, neither does turning the wheels. It makes the noise with the clutch in or out, and in gear or neutral. It's a rhythmic chug/pulse/knocking and seems to be around the passenger side, and lower in the engine, which is why it seemed odd that removing the belt made it go away. I'm trying to chase this down, new-to-me 2011 Wrangler, took it to a "Jeep shop" (who said they hate 3.8s, AFTER they did the work) for baseline fluids, plugs, etc and they pointed out the noise. They said definitely piston slap or wrist pin, start the process to replace the engine under your 3 month warranty. That seemed extreme, since the thing runs great it's just making this noise. So, I took it to a trusted general mechanic who popped off the belt, and we noticed the sound disappeared. So, they replaced the tensioner and belt first, still made the noise by the time I got home, so they replaced the idler next. I noticed the sound got better but then returned after a couple days. I appreciate your insight! I can send you the video the first shop took, if you care to listen to it?
@@ntaubitz th-cam.com/video/JXMEY3rLwQc/w-d-xo.htmlfeature=shared
@ntaubitz And if I can also ask... removing the belt eliminates the noise, wouldn't it stand to reason that it would NOT be the a/c, alternator, or power steering? It should be one of the pulleys along the belt, no? And if the belt being off was a fluke, then I'm back to possibly rob bearing? Thanks! I posted the short video on my channel if you could take a look?
@@ntaubitz th-cam.com/video/JXMEY3rLwQc/w-d-xo.html&feature=shared
Quick question will help me a lot .. did you get oem size bearings or a bit bigger ?
I replaced rod and main bearings with the same size but not OEM manufacturer. At that time I bought from a higher quality manufacturer but I can't remember who.
@@ntaubitz is the rod bearings for the 3.8 v6 a size 0.25 ?? Is that standard size?
@@jayceeleon .025 is not standard.. Standard is just that..No numbers will be added..
And if you choose too do this. use the King Bearings..They will last..Think they are like $40.00 for set..
Thanks for this reply. I wondered the same thing.
Good work
Great video!
What was the torque spec?
Thanks for posting.
www.justanswer.com/jeep/80qyc-rebuilding-2007-jeep-3-8-v-6-need-torque-specifications.html
Did u use standard beari gs or oversized
Did you put new bolts in when you replaced the rod bearings, I was just curious I'm in the process of doing the same thing, Thanks
I used the existing bolts. Let me tell you, it took some serious doing to get that final torque number.
Have broken caps. I set them all up on cardboard how they came out, but someone moved them on me and They aren't marked.
Any help in this case ?
Are they broken caps (07-09)? Those only fit back together one way. If not, maybe they are marked somehow? Look for a stamp or marking that would be along the parting line. Next best would be to put the cap on the rod without bearings and make sure that cap fits perfectly on that rod.
Again, broken caps ONLY GO ONE WAY. When they are broken, the pattern is unique and the cap will only fit the rod. The rod is bored out and then broken in half.
Were you able to roll in the main crank bearings or just the rod bearings?
I got 2 of them. 2 are cross bolted and require getting the motor out of its mounts. The mains were fine. The rod bearings were worn as you see.
Assuming you used stock bearings
Great video! I have a knocking from my cranckshaft andy mechanic will inspect the bearings and replace them if needed. I hope my crankshaft is not finished. How was the result?
Jknikos no more knocking when starting it but it didnt make any noticeable difference in mileage or oil getting dirty. I feel more confident in the motor though. After this I did the timing chain because I noticed it was bad doing the bearings. You might as well do the timing chain at the same time and that did make a big difference in how the engine runs.
nate taubitz good to hear! Thanks for the tip!
Thank you for this video, my engine is knocking bad but i will try this before spend 2k in a new engine, i post any result tomorrow
Make sure you look at the crank. If the surface is not perfectly polished, then your new bearings will just get ruined quickly. If the crank bearing surface is good, then this is for sure worth doing before doing an engine swap. If I did an engine swap with a used engine, I would DEFINITELY replace the bearings, included mains, before installing the engine. The 3.8 is notorious for spinning bearings.
nate taubitz it was scratched very bad, the bearing was rolled, anyway i put the new one and the knocking go away for few minutes. I already have the replace engine. I learn how do something new in the process thank for the video.
When the bearing spins, the oil ports no longer line up. So it is starved of oil and that's what scores the crank. Do yourself a favor and put new bearings in the replacement engine before swapping it. It's almost impossible to change the cross bolted main bearings when the engine is in the vehicle. You'll replace the oil pan and riser gaskets which tend to leak on these at the same time.
Thanks, great job.
You want to make sure they don't spin again. Use Blue Loctite on the back side. Then assembly lube the inside..Race Car drivers trick...
That's the stupidest thing I've heard. Loctite expands, thus decreasing bearing clearances.
@@Void-gn9zm Because you have no clue why they do it...Maybe take a course in engine building...
That's what I do on every single engine I've built... Just for cheap insurance.
how do I you find if I have forged or cracked rods?
Chrysler used two cast rods, a 4448904 in the earlier engines and 4654356 from ’01 through ’06. The 0015 powdered metal rod with the cracked cap was used from ’07 through ’09. www.enginebuildermag.com/2010/03/rebuilding-the-chrysler-3-3l3-8l-engine/
Will this eventually happen on a 3.8? I'm at 94k change the oil every 5k and always check the oil. It burns a little oil.
Btw mines not knocking im just seeing if this is common.
I change my oil, with Mobil1 synthetic every 2500 or so. My motor works hard and sees a lot of RPMs. It all depends upon what your motor goes through. This motor is notoriously dirty(oil) and in an offroad environment gets packed with mud often. If it doesn't get too hot and you keep slick oil in it, they should go basically for the life of the motor. Spun bearings tend to happen with dirty oil and high RPM. Stay out of the RPMs with dirty oil.
Did you use plastigauge or something to figure out what size bearings you needed? Or did you just use stock size bearings?
It's not a high performance engine. So no, there aren't easy options for different sizes. I used the higher quality (forget the brand) bearings and didn't measure the gaps. The rattles went away and it's been running fine for almost 2 years.
I have the 4.7 that started to knock and I saw there are several choices for bearing sizes. How do I know which ones to get
@@misterkota1252 get some plastigauge, measure the current gap, then get the right size over to bring it back into spec, or use a micrometer (but this is definitely not the best way, normally you’d have a machine shop check and true up the journals.)
Are roll in bearings a specific type of bearings or is that what you call the technique you used in this video?
It is just a technique mostly for main bearings. I used a higher quality OEM fit replacement set of bearings for the rods and you don't need to roll them in because the rod can swing away after the cap is removed.
How do you turn the crank?? And what do you torque them to?
You put a wrench on the front of the engine on the balancer (front of crank). The connecting rods for broken caps is 20 ft/lb + 90degrees and for the forged it is 40 ft/lb + 90degrees
Is you roll in bearings holding up. Info would be greatly appreciated.
Yes. I changed oil and there was NO metal sheen or anything in there. It has been like -5F here and when I start it up, it no longer has that low knock for a few seconds. Once it is warm, it is smoother above 3500rpm than it used to be. Somewhere up top, probably a lifter I get more of a rattle until it gets warm, that's something different. This was a very time consuming repair, but it was pretty cheap and so it was definitely worth doing for me. I drive from state to state and go wheeling so I like to do preventative maintenance rather than wait until it breaks and I'm stranded. Plus, doing this will increase the life of the crank.
nate taubitz this is awesome, thank you for your reply. I started my jeep on Friday evening and it spun upon startup. I’m going to do this in the next couple of weekends when it warms up. Thanks again for the vid
How many miles on this thing?
Is this 3.8 the same as the 3800 Series ll?
No. This is Chrysler not GM/Buick but the same general technique would be used. They are both a V motor and the same bearing strategy is used basically in all motors. As long as the crank surfaces are good you can put new bearings in making sure the oil channels are aligned.
Ok Nevermind im @ 5:02
To be clear. Rolling in bearings is a technique when you don't want to remove the crank.
M