In this video, I'm reviewing the things I check when I evaluate at a used S&W revolver. For T-Shirt info, contact: Warbirdbunker.com Join this channel to get access to exclusive members only content: / @hrfunk
Great video. Glad to see someone else go through this process of inspecting revolvers. I have pretty much done the same steps many times. Thanks. Blessings brother
Good video. I love revolvers and any content related to them. It’s nice to see how someone evaluates one for function and allows me to learn something new. Thanks.
Very informative, thanks for the tutorial! Have my eye on a 6" Model 19, and I'll be sure to go through all the checks you demonstrated before I make the deal. Thanks again!
Good vid/review ... Gotta' love those S&W Mountain revolvers. I have one in 45Colt. I'd add one or two addtl. things to check for: Check the barrel is centered. Looking down the top of the barrel it should line up center with the frame. I've seen a couple that didn't. Also, check the barrel cylinder gap that it's not too close or too wide. And, if it has a two piece barrel, be sure they're tight. I've got one now, a model 66, where the barrel and shroud have come loose. Gonna' have to send it back to S&W for repair.
Outstanding Howard good review. In my opinion the 66 K - Frame .357 Magnum was one of the the best combat revolvers ever produced . The Mdl 626 N-Frame .44 Magnum was one of the best Hunting Revolver ever produced but takes alot of practice to be good with it. I have been very successful Hunting in the 1970's 80's taking both White Tail Deer , Wild Boar .With both these Revolvers. I preferred the 180 grain Keith bullets in the 357 mag, 240 grain in the .44 Magnum. I wish I had kept them as they were my favorite wheel Guns.I reloaded and fired thousands of round thru both of them some were very stout in the .44 but were very accurate hitting the steel ram at 200 yards.
Very good. I was going to ding you on the crane thing, but you brought it up in the end. Another cause for crane problems is someone shooting one cartridge only with very heavy loads in a large caliber gun. Always keep all the other cylinders full even if the cartridges are empty.
Thank you, HR, for yet another enjoyable, excellent, and very valuable video! In fact, I found it particularly worthwhile and entertaining, since - basically - I’m a revolver guy (although my loyalties are divided between Smiths and Rugers). I actually watched your TH-cam twice, since I have a near-identical Mountain Gun (although mine is chambered in .45 Colt), so I could perform all the inspections and checks in realtime. I sincerely appreciate your many efforts - and your expertise - to share your experiences with the firearms community. With warmest regards.
Thanks for this valuable teaching moment. Not just for evaluating a purchase but inspecting what we already own to keep up with proper maintenance and preventing abuse and neglect. Beautiful specimen presented.
Really good video and very useful information. Thanks! I have three S&W .44 Magnums and the 4" Mountain gun is, by far, my favorite. Mine is blued, a Performance Center model. The tapered barrel not only reduces carry weight, IMO it is SO much better looking!
Great video! I collect older S&W revolvers, and despite my LEO experience with automatics, I primarily carry a 4" K frame concealed daily. Love these classics! The full inspection is so important!
This was helpful. I’m not a big revolver guy, but I have thought of adding a classic smith to the stable from time to time. It helps to know what to look for, and I wouldn’t know how to check.
I was looking at a Thompson Hawken at a gun show a few years ago and discovered it was loaded . The previous owner had modified it to used shotgun primers . I found it also was loaded up with a primer . It was a miracle nobody was badly injured.
Excellent overview. I do all these checks except the one with the pencils. I admit I don't recall that one. When I do the timing check I induce a little drag on the cylinder with my thumb to simulate loaded chamber weight. One other thing I do is inspect the cylinder gap. Unless you have a feeler gauge set with you, it is doubtful you will be able to tell if the gap is within spec, but you can usually spot excessive gap or too little gap. The latter will cause cylinder drag.
If I’m concerned about the timing, I add a little drag too. I didn’t mention checking the barrel/cylinder gap only because most people don’t keep a feeler gauge in their pocket. Thanks for watching Colonel!
Having done warranty repairs for S&W for many years in NYC, both for civilian and law enforcement firearms, I believe I am qualified to commend you for an excellent presentation. The only tests I would add would be to, one, check that, when cocking the hammer in single action, it travels a little further past the point where it cocks (overhaul) and, two, with the trigger pulled fully to the rear and the hammer fully forward, when you slowly release the trigger, the trigger can move slightly forward before the hammer begins to rotate back. (wink). Once again, my compliments for an excellent presentation.
Great video. I received my used S&W model 17 with a heavier trigger pull on 3 chambers. Thanks to your video, I realize that it has to do with the guide rod being (not visibly) bent. I haven't verified it yet, but at least it's good to have some direction.
Agree with numerous comments on S&W barrels. I've had new S&W's with barrels not correctly clocked. Also had Model 57 with misaligned barrel axis and frame. Rear sight was run to its windage stop to zero the weapon. Also rear sight bodies are often twisted, top of rear sight blade does not sit parallel to top of frame. These are all potential defects from the factory. I look at yoke to frame fit for any gaps, and spin the open cylinder with the ejector rod to see any runout. Visual checks and feel of the ratchet pad surfaces also recommended.
the gun in photo is similar to my second gun i ever owned, a s+w 65-2 357 magnum 4", very good basic revolver i carried on quite a few wilderness survival trips - funny story about it = i had just set up camp on arriving for a 3 month survival trip in sawtooth wilderness, was walking down a steep slope to get water from a river, left the revolver in camp, i saw a man walking uphill toward me so i walked toward him, it was dark so couldnt see well and at about 20 to 30 feet i realized it was a bear, we saw each other at same time and we both took often running in opposite directions - last time i ever left my gun in camp LOL
@@hrfunk Nice Example of the mountain gun, I've had 3 of those pass through my hands over the years (one I still have), the last one was about 4 years ago and was in HORRIBLE looking condition,,,it looked like smeone tied it to a rope and the back of a truck and drug it down a gravel road for a few miles, absolute utter shame the way someone had neglected it,,,but I got it for an incredibly good price and it was in good shape as far as still in time well and still locked up nice and tight suprizingly, so I took it home and spent the entire next week stripping it down completely every last nut bolt and screw, and restoring it giving it all new springs, polishing and tunning the action as well as a complete action shimming job (if you know what shimming one means if not google it you might find it interesting), reblued the little blued parts,,,everything you could possibly do to make it brand new again and pollished it inside and out till it was like looking into a deep mirror, when I was done everything about the gun was spot on perfect action as slick and nice as you could ever get, B/C gap set perfect (I even had the barrel out and reset that and slightly recut and polished the forcing cone, chambers and muzzle crown, basicly built the gun over again, put a beautifull set of 200$ Altamount Zebra wood grips on it, took it out and shot it after all that and WOW what a shooter, took it back to where i got it (a long time buddy of mine that owns a local sporting goods and gun shop) and he couldn't believe it was the same gun,,,he bought it back from me on the spot for 3 times what I gave him for it and now it's in his private collection where it will be properly cared for at least untill he passes away,,but i know his son who is my age 55 (Dale my buddy is the same age as my mom who's 78), and I know his son (who actually shares my same first name funny enough LOL)will also treat the gun well when it is handed down so even though it would have been nice to keep it at least I know it's in good hands who will not treat it so horribly like the previous owner had,,,makes me sick to see such fine guns so badly misstreated, anyhow thanks again my friend for another great video, and nice S&W ya have there.
Should have used a smaller bore gun, HR, the echo from that barrel was bothersome, LOL. Damn good video, covered about everything you need to know when shopping for a used revolver. That Mountain Gun is awesome, cut loose with it some time on one of your videos. Oh, S&W refers to it as the "yoke", not the "crane", when talking about what swings out with the cylinder on it. I would have mentioned looking at the barrel/cylinder gap to see if it varied when rotating the cylinder, a second way to check for a bent yoke, extractor rod or damaged cylinder, and the width of the gap, except it would take a feeler gauge to accurately check it. The part about gun etiquette, asking if you can handle the gun, was spot on, just good manners, if nothing else. If you see one of these, do all the checks and are still interested, you might also ask if you can remove the stocks, especially if they are rubber, or original wood. If rubber, you're looking for hidden rust, if original, to see if they might be numbered to the gun if it's a vintage model, as S&W did that up to the 1970's or so.
Three inpsections/concerns each time I view one; 1 crane to frame gaps and play 2 side plate poor fitting / gaps. 3 canted barrels are an immediate rejection.
Thanks, Howard! That was very informative. One thing I noticed that we do differently is closing the cylinder. I was trained to never press on the cylinder itself to close it. You should always press on the crane. I heard that from multiple sources when I was younger. I’ve seen people close the cylinder in various ways but never have I seen a gun damaged by any one of them. I’ve had it drilled into my head so much that it is now a subconscious event. Do you think I just drank the Kool-Aid?
All I can say is that I’ve never heard that and no cranes were damaged during the production of this video. I wonder if there might have been a particular revolver once upon a time that was vulnerable to such damage?
@@hrfunk I don’t have a clue. I have seen other TH-cam videos saying always press on the crane. I’m guessing that if the crane is stiff or the plunger in the cylinder pin doesn’t move freely, excessive force on the cylinder could cause the pin to bend. I would think that with proper maintenance, it shouldn’t be a problem. When you handle a gun that someone else does or does not maintain, an issue could arise. It’s kind of like the guy that brings his old beater car (hasn’t seen a shop in YEARS) in for an oil change. You change his oil and give him the car back. Lo and behold (Surprise, Surprise) now his A/C doesn’t work and it’s your fault because you touched it. Oh well, that’s the best I’ve got.
I have always closed the cylinder with the thumb of my left hand gently pushing the crane and having my right hand thumb as backup indexing the cylinder as it closes so I dont have to turn it to drop into a locking lug. Its already in one when cylinder is closed. I guess I am anal about that but I have never had any problems with my revolvers due to abuse / misuse. The way some people on you tube ( not you HR ) handle their revolvers it literally makes me cringe.
I see someone mentioned the zip tie obstacle. The ties are the reason that shows are so safe and I really don't recall attending a gun show that didn't require them. Like you said if you persuade the dealer that you are very interested he should remove it, otherwise you won't be able to perform many of these inspections.
Great informational video about buying a S&W revolver. Unfortunately here in Oregon being able to check the function of a handgun would only be possible IF the owner at a gun show is willing to cut the zip tie holding the hammer down.
If nothing else, you can check the revolver immediately after making the purchase. If you find a problem, hopefully the seller will take it back and refund your money.
Very Helpful HrFunk Thank You You Covered All The Bases But You Lost Me on The Test You Said is Done With 2 Pencils 😀😊😐👍🏼 Smith n Wesson Has Left Hand Twist In There Barrels Don’t They I Forget Hope to Make it To a Good Gunshow This Coming Month 😀
Nice. Couple of points there I actually hadn't heard before... or at least don't REMEMBER hearing. (They DO say the memory is the second thing to go. Can't recall what the first was...)
That's just about everything you can check without gages. The only other things that are checked at the factory are B/C gap, rear head space, plug strike gage for lead spitting and single and double action trigger pull weight with a Chatillon gage.
One little suggestion. While checking out the bore, take a strong look at the crown of the muzzle. So man holsters are a smidge too short and allow the muzzle to be come damaged. Seat belts, a rock while taking a break in the woods or any number of things can damage the crown and go un-noticed. I love a good slide holster for my 1911's but am very careful when searing them. KnifeMaker
@hrfunk I only know a decocker check with a pencil. I guess the second pencil is to quickly actuate the trigger and release it? If the firing pin is in the frame, having the cylinder out and pushing the thumb piece back allows to see it protrude.
Gorgeous gun.❤ I won't buy a used gun without sticking a round down the end of rhe barrel. If it sinks to the brass, that barrel is wore slap out. It is a crude test, but extremely reliable. Unless it's going to be a wall piece, being able to stabilize a bullet down range is kind of paramount.
@@JJ_SDWR No such thing as a dumb question. I use a live common round. The barrel bore needs to be smaller than the bullet diameter, in order for the rifle lands and grooves to spin (stabilize) the bullet. On a fresh bore you will see 1/16-1/8" of the bullet shoulder between the case and the end of the barrel. If the entire bullet sinks up to the brass case, that bore is worn slap out. Buy it if you like the gun, but it will never be accurate without a new barrel.
I would suggest you check if its loaded first .. before anything else ..and also check the serial number .for any signs of interference ..and that they correspond .
...where are you at??? You speak of the Fall as 'gun show season'..I live in Florida - have since 1979 - the entire YEAR here is 'gun show season', in fact there's usually a show every weekend somewhere in the South Florida area - or at least within driving distance. When I worked for Sikorsky Aircraft (and could afford it) I went to every show from Miami to Orlando and across the state to Tampa. I'm 72 now and don;t like driving at night so those shows that take 3 - 4 hours to drive to are memories of the past.
@@hrfunk this week there were two show in close proximity...Martin County Fairgrounds & Palm Beach County Fairgrounds...I went tothe Sturast airshow instead...bought too many firearms/ammo this month...
Couple other items you’ll want to check are: 1. Make sure each cylinder lines up with barrel when trigger is pulled. 2. Make sure barrel is centered with frame of gun, especially on newer model Smiths. Couldn’t tell how many revolvers I’ve checked out where the barrel is cock-eyed (or not centered) with the gun frame.
It may be painfully obvious, but look at the fit of the side plate in the frame. Are the seams almost invisible all the way around? No signs of prying the side plate off, no buggered screws indicating that Bubba the kitchen table gunsmith “tuned the action”. If the trigger pull is wicked light, walk away. I recently bought a S&W Model 25-10 off a forum member. *After* I committed to buying the gun, the seller said “Oh I forgot - the previous owner tuned the trigger pull and it’s kind of light.” I actually knew the guy who did the trigger work so didn’t cancel the sale, but the single action trigger pull was 2 pounds even when I got it. Too light for me! He’d cut 4 or 5 coils off the trigger rebound spring. Even with a reduced power spring, I increased the trigger pull to 2 lbs 9 oz. That’s still light but OK for a range-only handgun IMHO. The important points are 1) I knew who did the action job, 2) nothing was buggered up, and 3) I knew how to get the gun tuned the way *I* wanted it. Fail any of those 3 conditions => walk away.
Yep that's a fine pistol. I'm old school and thinking how it would make a good at least occasional duty carry gun. Especially with some nice traditional wood grips or even those and some nice basket weave leather..
This is the gun I covet the most in your collection. The silhouette is just awesome. Thanks for the close-up look. Just out of curiosity, I was told that one should always close the cylinder by pressing on the yoke and not the side of the cylinder. Thoughts?
Someone else mentioned that too. I’ve never heard it before, and I’ve never done it. All I can say is I’ve never damaged a crane/yoke by closing it the other way.
Where do you happen to get most of your attire? My husband loves your channel but always compliments your attire, It’s very classy and sharp looking! God bless! 😊
Thank you. Most of my clothes you see in the videos comes from Duluth Trading Company, but I always keep an eye out in places like Eddie Bauer, Old Navy, and even Cabelas. Last Christmas I actually found a couple of shirts I really like on the Clearance rack at American Eagle. I hope this helps. I'm not a fashion plate, but I always just watch for clothes that I like.
@@hrfunk Thank you so much!! He just loves the same style as you but has a hard time finding certain styles without going crazy on a price for 1 outfit setup. Also one last question to pick your brain, would you prefer your S&W 66 3” or S&W 19-9 Carry Comp 3”? He loves both and loves the black on the Carry Comp since it’s hard to find something similar with blueing, but wants to make sure he chooses the best one since it’s a high price point for those options in our household. Thanks again @hrfunk
@@madisonrodriguez634 Of those two, I would go with the Model 19 Carry Comp. My 3" M66 is an older version. It lacks some of the endurance enhancements that have been incorporated into the carry comp. I've semi-retired my Model 66. From now on. when I shoot it, I'll probably just use .38 Special ammo.
Thanks for the great guide. What do you use to clean the cylinder face? It looks like it’s never been shot! Wouldn’t expect anything less, frankly though.
I scrub the face of the cylinder with a toothbrush and solvent to get some of the residue off it. Then I use a lead remover/polishing cloth to finish the job. I believe that cloth is made by Birchwood-Casey, and it contains micro-abrasives to really do a nice job. I’ve noticed over time, as my cylinder face(s) become more polished they are easier and easier to get clean.
Rotating the cylinder at half cock @6:29 is fine on a single action because that's how you load it and it has a different lock-up. On a double action it will scratch the cylinder. Not so noticeable on stainless but if you do that on a blued Colt Python at a gun show be prepared for a 300 pound man coming across the table for you.
I'd rate your Revolver Check out at a solid 99% - the only thing I think one should check that wasn't mentioned in the video is to check that the barrel is not severely "clocked" (off center for those not knowing what clocked mean). This seems to be a common problem with many modern day Smith & Wesson revolvers (unfortunately). Other than that you covered all the basis that a customer should do before purchase. I'd STRONGLY suggest doing this EVEN on NEW Revolvers given the poor quality control these days.
I almost mentioned that specifically, but since I said to check the sights, I thought it seemed redundant since an improperly timed barrel (sight) should be noted at that point. In retrospect, I should have referred to it specifically.
Hi great video . Quick question when I have the trigger depressed like you had checking for end shake there is none in my ruger revolver . But when it’s not pressed there is some movement is that normal ? it’s a new gun with only 100 rounds fired
The important thing is that there is no movement at the moment the hammer falls (the point where the trigger releases the hammer). Slight movement at other times is inconsequential.
Hi. I have a new 2022 Taurus defender 605 357/38 three inch barrel. Watching your video on barrel line when I cocked the hammer and made a dry shot holding the trigger back when I released the trigger the hammer did not reset. Should it do this on the new 605 defender?
What if there is close to zero rotational movement on lock up for 2 of the cylinders (barely budges) but the rest of them have a very small amount of play? It's a Ruger sp101 and timing seems perfect otherwise. Not alot of rounds through it.
It sounds fine to me. A slight amount of rotational movement is normal. Excessive movement that allows the chamber to move out of alignment with the barrel is a problem.
Hi I noticed copper streaks in your barrel is that normal ? Because I got a new revolver only shot fiftey rounds and I see them on the rifling now and I cleaned excessively and they are still there I’m puzzled
See you Sunday Howard, thanks, P.S. my Channel is just named DanTheWolfman now . I posted link below but they often disappear right away or after 2 hours as I seem to be censored. Maybe you can take the link and put it here as a Main Highlighted Comment, & Remind people on Saturday/Sunday w the link if you can by making a TH-cam Create Post that goes out. Thanks
@@hrfunk ok thanks for the info. I’m going to pick a s&w 686 plus today at my ffl. I’ll make sure the barrel is not canted before I accept it. I’ve heard s&w has been putting on canted or off center barrels here and there sometimes.
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That particular revolver is my personal favorite. I dont think there is anything finer than a perfect S&W revolver.
Great video. Glad to see someone else go through this process of inspecting revolvers. I have pretty much done the same steps many times. Thanks. Blessings brother
I really enjoy these tabletop demonstrations. 👍🏼
Good video. I love revolvers and any content related to them. It’s nice to see how someone evaluates one for function and allows me to learn something new. Thanks.
You’re welcome. Thanks for watching!
Very informative, thanks for the tutorial! Have my eye on a 6" Model 19, and I'll be sure to go through all the checks you demonstrated before I make the deal. Thanks again!
You’re welcome. Good luck with that Model 19!
Good vid/review ... Gotta' love those S&W Mountain revolvers. I have one in 45Colt.
I'd add one or two addtl. things to check for: Check the barrel is centered. Looking down the top of the barrel it should line up center with the frame. I've seen a couple that didn't.
Also, check the barrel cylinder gap that it's not too close or too wide. And, if it has a two piece barrel, be sure they're tight. I've got one now, a model 66, where the barrel and shroud have come loose. Gonna' have to send it back to S&W for repair.
Outstanding Howard good review. In my opinion the 66 K - Frame .357 Magnum was one of the the best combat revolvers ever produced . The Mdl 626 N-Frame .44 Magnum was one of the best Hunting Revolver ever produced but takes alot of practice to be good with it. I have been very successful Hunting in the 1970's 80's taking both White Tail Deer , Wild Boar .With both these Revolvers. I preferred the 180 grain Keith bullets in the 357 mag, 240 grain in the .44 Magnum. I wish I had kept them as they were my favorite wheel Guns.I reloaded and fired thousands of round thru both of them some were very stout in the .44 but were very accurate hitting the steel ram at 200 yards.
Very good. I was going to ding you on the crane thing, but you brought it up in the end. Another cause for crane problems is someone shooting one cartridge only with very heavy loads in a large caliber gun. Always keep all the other cylinders full even if the cartridges are empty.
Excellent tutorial on the considerations before buying a revolver, great stuff.
Thanks Sergeant Major!
Thank you, HR, for yet another enjoyable, excellent, and very valuable video! In fact, I found it particularly worthwhile and entertaining, since - basically - I’m a revolver guy (although my loyalties are divided between Smiths and Rugers). I actually watched your TH-cam twice, since I have a near-identical Mountain Gun (although mine is chambered in .45 Colt), so I could perform all the inspections and checks in realtime. I sincerely appreciate your many efforts - and your expertise - to share your experiences with the firearms community. With warmest regards.
Thanks Roy. I’m glad it was helpful.
Good thorough steps in evaluation and completing a purchase of a nice classic. Thank You, sir.
You’re welcome. Thanks for watching!
great information! Thanks for sharing
Thank you for this presentation. Nicely done. Very Professional and complete.
You’re welcome Eric. Thanks for watching!
What an absolute sweetheart of a wheel gun HR. I learned a couple things that will come in handy checking out a S&W 10-5 snubby later today.
Good (I love that Mountain Gun too!). Let me know if you pick up that Model 10.
A thorough and useful guide. Thank you, sir! Now off to the range with my 4” 629...
You’re welcome, and have fun!
Thanks for this valuable teaching moment. Not just for evaluating a purchase but inspecting what we already own to keep up with proper maintenance and preventing abuse and neglect. Beautiful specimen presented.
You’re welcome Richard. I’m glad it was helpful.
@@hrfunk BTW your Mountain S&W is a beautiful specimen, even a glock or 1911 guy would be inspired to buy a wheelgun.
I also like to hold it up and check for excessive barrel/cylinder gap. Definitely don’t want double digits.
Really good video and very useful information. Thanks!
I have three S&W .44 Magnums and the 4" Mountain gun is, by far, my favorite. Mine is blued, a Performance Center model. The tapered barrel not only reduces carry weight, IMO it is SO much better looking!
I like the tapered barrel too!
Great video! I collect older S&W revolvers, and despite my LEO experience with automatics, I primarily carry a 4" K frame concealed daily. Love these classics! The full inspection is so important!
Great great great video. Thank you sir. I would like to see more videos like this on other firearms especially common guns like 870, 590, 1991 etc.
You’re welcome! Stay tuned, I like to produce these sort of videos during inclement weather when I can’t make it to the range.
Great pointers HR! Thanks!
You’re welcome Dan. Thanks for watching!
Good video, thanks. That Mountain Gun is just graceful in it's elegance.
Thanks Frank. It’s one of my favorite wheelguns.
Very good explaining 👍
Great video and a very nice pistol…sold!
Thanks a lot, very helpful.
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
You've provided some really good advice in this video.
Thank you!
Thanks for the information.
Very informative. Thanks!
You’re welcome!
Excellent video!
Thank you!
Thanks for making this video, very informative.
You’re welcome Dave. Thanks for watching!
This was helpful. I’m not a big revolver guy, but I have thought of adding a classic smith to the stable from time to time. It helps to know what to look for, and I wouldn’t know how to check.
Good! I’m glad it was helpful.
I was looking at a Thompson Hawken at a gun show a few years ago and discovered it was loaded . The previous owner had modified it to used shotgun primers . I found it also was loaded up with a primer . It was a miracle nobody was badly injured.
I’ll say. I’m glad you spotted that!
FANTASTIC Information. Terrific video.
Thank you. I’m glad you liked it!
Excellent and informative video!! The front of that cylinder is immaculate..
Thanks Chris!
Thank you for this terrific video. The next time I'm looking at a used revolver, I'm considering for purchase, I'll remember this video. Thank you.
You're welcome!
Solid info Thanks
You're welcome Paul. Thanks for watching!
Excellent overview. I do all these checks except the one with the pencils. I admit I don't recall that one. When I do the timing check I induce a little drag on the cylinder with my thumb to simulate loaded chamber weight. One other thing I do is inspect the cylinder gap. Unless you have a feeler gauge set with you, it is doubtful you will be able to tell if the gap is within spec, but you can usually spot excessive gap or too little gap. The latter will cause cylinder drag.
If I’m concerned about the timing, I add a little drag too. I didn’t mention checking the barrel/cylinder gap only because most people don’t keep a feeler gauge in their pocket. Thanks for watching Colonel!
Thank you for the video.
You’re welcome. Thanks for watching!
Great info especially on checking timing, hopefully gonna sneak a model 14 home next week if it’s still there
Good for you. I would like to have a nice Model 14.
Great tips. Thanks.
You’re welcome Jim!
BEAUTIFUL revolver. 😍
Having done warranty repairs for S&W for many years in NYC, both for civilian and law enforcement firearms, I believe I am qualified to commend you for an excellent presentation. The only tests I would add would be to, one, check that, when cocking the hammer in single action, it travels a little further past the point where it cocks (overhaul) and, two, with the trigger pulled fully to the rear and the hammer fully forward, when you slowly release the trigger, the trigger can move slightly forward before the hammer begins to rotate back. (wink). Once again, my compliments for an excellent presentation.
Thank you very much. I have to admit that I never heard of the second test. I can, however, see the wisdom.
Great video. I received my used S&W model 17 with a heavier trigger pull on 3 chambers. Thanks to your video, I realize that it has to do with the guide rod being (not visibly) bent. I haven't verified it yet, but at least it's good to have some direction.
A gunsmith might be able to straighten it for you. Otherwise, it can be replaced.
Thank you!
You're welcome!
Excellent video👍
Thank you 👍
Well done.
Thank you!
Agree with numerous comments on S&W barrels. I've had new S&W's with barrels not correctly clocked. Also had Model 57 with misaligned barrel axis and frame. Rear sight was run to its windage stop to zero the weapon. Also rear sight bodies are often twisted, top of rear sight blade does not sit parallel to top of frame. These are all potential defects from the factory. I look at yoke to frame fit for any gaps, and spin the open cylinder with the ejector rod to see any runout. Visual checks and feel of the ratchet pad surfaces also recommended.
Underrated youtuber, you totally deserve more subs
Thank you!
Thanks for the video! 😊
You’re welcome Carol Anne!
Good job !
Thank you!
If some pudding-for-brains slammed the cylinder shut on Any of my revolvers, my Pimp Hand would DEFINITELY be deployed post hast!
the gun in photo is similar to my second gun i ever owned, a s+w 65-2 357 magnum 4", very good basic revolver i carried on quite a few wilderness survival trips - funny story about it = i had just set up camp on arriving for a 3 month survival trip in sawtooth wilderness, was walking down a steep slope to get water from a river, left the revolver in camp, i saw a man walking uphill toward me so i walked toward him, it was dark so couldnt see well and at about 20 to 30 feet i realized it was a bear, we saw each other at same time and we both took often running in opposite directions - last time i ever left my gun in camp LOL
Ha, ha! I’m glad he was scared too!
@@hrfunk Nice Example of the mountain gun, I've had 3 of those pass through my hands over the years (one I still have), the last one was about 4 years ago and was in HORRIBLE looking condition,,,it looked like smeone tied it to a rope and the back of a truck and drug it down a gravel road for a few miles, absolute utter shame the way someone had neglected it,,,but I got it for an incredibly good price and it was in good shape as far as still in time well and still locked up nice and tight suprizingly, so I took it home and spent the entire next week stripping it down completely every last nut bolt and screw, and restoring it giving it all new springs, polishing and tunning the action as well as a complete action shimming job (if you know what shimming one means if not google it you might find it interesting), reblued the little blued parts,,,everything you could possibly do to make it brand new again and pollished it inside and out till it was like looking into a deep mirror, when I was done everything about the gun was spot on perfect action as slick and nice as you could ever get, B/C gap set perfect (I even had the barrel out and reset that and slightly recut and polished the forcing cone, chambers and muzzle crown, basicly built the gun over again, put a beautifull set of 200$ Altamount Zebra wood grips on it, took it out and shot it after all that and WOW what a shooter, took it back to where i got it (a long time buddy of mine that owns a local sporting goods and gun shop) and he couldn't believe it was the same gun,,,he bought it back from me on the spot for 3 times what I gave him for it and now it's in his private collection where it will be properly cared for at least untill he passes away,,but i know his son who is my age 55 (Dale my buddy is the same age as my mom who's 78), and I know his son (who actually shares my same first name funny enough LOL)will also treat the gun well when it is handed down so even though it would have been nice to keep it at least I know it's in good hands who will not treat it so horribly like the previous owner had,,,makes me sick to see such fine guns so badly misstreated, anyhow thanks again my friend for another great video, and nice S&W ya have there.
I know what you mean. Honest wear is one thing. Abuse is quite another.
Great video. Just subscribed
Thanks for the sub and welcome aboard!
I knew most, but not all of this info. Great video. Us revolver guys are a dyeing breed.
Yep. That’s part of the reason I made this video. Some of the youngsters might not know these things.
@@hrfunk You calling me old? LOL. It's ok, because I am old.
Should have used a smaller bore gun, HR, the echo from that barrel was bothersome, LOL. Damn good video, covered about everything you need to know when shopping for a used revolver. That Mountain Gun is awesome, cut loose with it some time on one of your videos. Oh, S&W refers to it as the "yoke", not the "crane", when talking about what swings out with the cylinder on it. I would have mentioned looking at the barrel/cylinder gap to see if it varied when rotating the cylinder, a second way to check for a bent yoke, extractor rod or damaged cylinder, and the width of the gap, except it would take a feeler gauge to accurately check it. The part about gun etiquette, asking if you can handle the gun, was spot on, just good manners, if nothing else. If you see one of these, do all the checks and are still interested, you might also ask if you can remove the stocks, especially if they are rubber, or original wood. If rubber, you're looking for hidden rust, if original, to see if they might be numbered to the gun if it's a vintage model, as S&W did that up to the 1970's or so.
Sorry about the echo. Just FYI, that Mountain Gun HAS made a few live-fire appearances in my videos.
Three inpsections/concerns each time I view one; 1 crane to frame gaps and play 2 side plate poor fitting / gaps. 3 canted barrels are an immediate rejection.
Thanks, Howard! That was very informative. One thing I noticed that we do differently is closing the cylinder. I was trained to never press on the cylinder itself to close it. You should always press on the crane. I heard that from multiple sources when I was younger. I’ve seen people close the cylinder in various ways but never have I seen a gun damaged by any one of them. I’ve had it drilled into my head so much that it is now a subconscious event. Do you think I just drank the Kool-Aid?
All I can say is that I’ve never heard that and no cranes were damaged during the production of this video. I wonder if there might have been a particular revolver once upon a time that was vulnerable to such damage?
@@hrfunk I don’t have a clue. I have seen other TH-cam videos saying always press on the crane. I’m guessing that if the crane is stiff or the plunger in the cylinder pin doesn’t move freely, excessive force on the cylinder could cause the pin to bend. I would think that with proper maintenance, it shouldn’t be a problem. When you handle a gun that someone else does or does not maintain, an issue could arise. It’s kind of like the guy that brings his old beater car (hasn’t seen a shop in YEARS) in for an oil change. You change his oil and give him the car back. Lo and behold (Surprise, Surprise) now his A/C doesn’t work and it’s your fault because you touched it. Oh well, that’s the best I’ve got.
I have always closed the cylinder with the thumb of my left hand gently pushing the crane and having my right hand thumb as backup indexing the cylinder as it closes so I dont have to turn it to drop into a locking lug. Its already in one when cylinder is closed. I guess I am anal about that but I have never had any problems with my revolvers due to abuse / misuse. The way some people on you tube ( not you HR ) handle their revolvers it literally makes me cringe.
I see someone mentioned the zip tie obstacle. The ties are the reason that shows are so safe and I really don't recall attending a gun show that didn't require them. Like you said if you persuade the dealer that you are very interested he should remove it, otherwise you won't be able to perform many of these inspections.
At very least, the checks could be performed immediately after leaving the show. If a problme is detected there might still be time to take it back.
Great informational video about buying a S&W revolver. Unfortunately here in Oregon being able to check the function of a handgun would only be possible IF the owner at a gun show is willing to cut the zip tie holding the hammer down.
If nothing else, you can check the revolver immediately after making the purchase. If you find a problem, hopefully the seller will take it back and refund your money.
Very Helpful HrFunk Thank You You Covered All The Bases But You Lost Me on The Test You Said is Done With 2 Pencils 😀😊😐👍🏼 Smith n Wesson Has Left Hand Twist In There Barrels Don’t They I Forget Hope to Make it To a Good Gunshow This Coming Month 😀
Classic Smith's and 1911's are my passion guns.
Nice. Couple of points there I actually hadn't heard before... or at least don't REMEMBER hearing. (They DO say the memory is the second thing to go. Can't recall what the first was...)
Me either…..
Umm, could I get: "What was eyesight for $2,000?" 🤣
well done thanks
You’re welcome!
That's just about everything you can check without gages. The only other things that are checked at the factory are B/C gap, rear head space, plug strike gage for lead spitting and single and double action trigger pull weight with a Chatillon gage.
you should see my father's police issued revolver 38spl from probably 1965 ... it's a beauty ...
I'd like to see it. What model is it?
@@hrfunk , I’ll find out, it’s his favorite.
My, that's beautiful
Thank you!
One little suggestion. While checking out the bore, take a strong look at the crown of the muzzle. So man holsters are a smidge too short and allow the muzzle to be come damaged. Seat belts, a rock while taking a break in the woods or any number of things can damage the crown and go un-noticed. I love a good slide holster for my 1911's but am very careful when searing them.
KnifeMaker
Good point Michael, thanks!
@hrfunk
I only know a decocker check with a pencil. I guess the second pencil is to quickly actuate the trigger and release it? If the firing pin is in the frame, having the cylinder out and pushing the thumb piece back allows to see it protrude.
It’s probably a similar test. Based on the interest that test has garnered, maybe I’ll feature it in a future video.
Gorgeous gun.❤ I won't buy a used gun without sticking a round down the end of rhe barrel. If it sinks to the brass, that barrel is wore slap out. It is a crude test, but extremely reliable. Unless it's going to be a wall piece, being able to stabilize a bullet down range is kind of paramount.
Sorry if this is a dumb comment, do you mean you drop a live round/dummy round in the barrel, or am I misunderstanding?
@@JJ_SDWR No such thing as a dumb question. I use a live common round. The barrel bore needs to be smaller than the bullet diameter, in order for the rifle lands and grooves to spin (stabilize) the bullet. On a fresh bore you will see 1/16-1/8" of the bullet shoulder between the case and the end of the barrel. If the entire bullet sinks up to the brass case, that bore is worn slap out. Buy it if you like the gun, but it will never be accurate without a new barrel.
@@JJ_SDWR Dummy rounds may not have the same dimentions as the actual bullets you will fire.
I would suggest you check if its loaded first .. before anything else ..and also check the serial number .for any signs of interference ..and that they correspond .
...where are you at??? You speak of the Fall as 'gun show season'..I live in Florida - have since 1979 - the entire YEAR here is 'gun show season', in fact there's usually a show every weekend somewhere in the South Florida area - or at least within driving distance. When I worked for Sikorsky Aircraft (and could afford it) I went to every show from Miami to Orlando and across the state to Tampa. I'm 72 now and don;t like driving at night so those shows that take 3 - 4 hours to drive to are memories of the past.
In Ohio, most of the shows stop during the summer months. Then in the fall, they commence again.
@@hrfunk prolly nothing like shows here in FL...
@@hrfunk this week there were two show in close proximity...Martin County Fairgrounds & Palm Beach County Fairgrounds...I went tothe Sturast airshow instead...bought too many firearms/ammo this month...
Couple other items you’ll want to check are:
1. Make sure each cylinder lines up with barrel when trigger is pulled.
2. Make sure barrel is centered with frame of gun, especially on newer model Smiths. Couldn’t tell how many revolvers I’ve checked out where the barrel is cock-eyed (or not centered) with the gun frame.
Ok, Captain Obvious
@@bigtrucklittlerv7969 glad you’re paying attention there bubba…
Right Up My Alley I’m In The Market For One of These Fine Revolvers HrFunk 😀
Good! I hope the video is helpful.
It may be painfully obvious, but look at the fit of the side plate in the frame. Are the seams almost invisible all the way around? No signs of prying the side plate off, no buggered screws indicating that Bubba the kitchen table gunsmith “tuned the action”.
If the trigger pull is wicked light, walk away. I recently bought a S&W Model 25-10 off a forum member. *After* I committed to buying the gun, the seller said “Oh I forgot - the previous owner tuned the trigger pull and it’s kind of light.” I actually knew the guy who did the trigger work so didn’t cancel the sale, but the single action trigger pull was 2 pounds even when I got it. Too light for me! He’d cut 4 or 5 coils off the trigger rebound spring. Even with a reduced power spring, I increased the trigger pull to 2 lbs 9 oz. That’s still light but OK for a range-only handgun IMHO. The important points are 1) I knew who did the action job, 2) nothing was buggered up, and 3) I knew how to get the gun tuned the way *I* wanted it. Fail any of those 3 conditions => walk away.
Yep that's a fine pistol.
I'm old school and thinking how it would make a good at least occasional duty carry gun. Especially with some nice traditional wood grips or even those and some nice basket weave leather..
Charged with a good .44 Special load, I wouldn’t feel particularly “undergunned” on duty.
@@hrfunk yep. But with mag loads handy just in case.
This is the gun I covet the most in your collection. The silhouette is just awesome. Thanks for the close-up look. Just out of curiosity, I was told that one should always close the cylinder by pressing on the yoke and not the side of the cylinder. Thoughts?
Someone else mentioned that too. I’ve never heard it before, and I’ve never done it. All I can say is I’ve never damaged a crane/yoke by closing it the other way.
It's a good idea, especially with a smith
Great job! Semper Fi! That’s the first time I have ever seen a rifle sling as a belt. Where did you find it or is it a personal modification?
Semper Fi John! It was made for me by a retired Marine. Unfortunately, they aren’t for sale anywhere.
I always ask permission to look at a firearm on the table at a Gun Show. It is just good gun etiquette.
I agree.
Where do you happen to get most of your attire? My husband loves your channel but always compliments your attire, It’s very classy and sharp looking! God bless! 😊
Thank you. Most of my clothes you see in the videos comes from Duluth Trading Company, but I always keep an eye out in places like Eddie Bauer, Old Navy, and even Cabelas. Last Christmas I actually found a couple of shirts I really like on the Clearance rack at American Eagle. I hope this helps. I'm not a fashion plate, but I always just watch for clothes that I like.
@@hrfunk Thank you so much!! He just loves the same style as you but has a hard time finding certain styles without going crazy on a price for 1 outfit setup. Also one last question to pick your brain, would you prefer your S&W 66 3” or S&W 19-9 Carry Comp 3”? He loves both and loves the black on the Carry Comp since it’s hard to find something similar with blueing, but wants to make sure he chooses the best one since it’s a high price point for those options in our household. Thanks again @hrfunk
@@madisonrodriguez634 Of those two, I would go with the Model 19 Carry Comp. My 3" M66 is an older version. It lacks some of the endurance enhancements that have been incorporated into the carry comp. I've semi-retired my Model 66. From now on. when I shoot it, I'll probably just use .38 Special ammo.
@@hrfunk Awesome thank you so much I really appreciate all of the advice and can’t wait for more videos! :)
Thanks for the great guide. What do you use to clean the cylinder face? It looks like it’s never been shot! Wouldn’t expect anything less, frankly though.
I scrub the face of the cylinder with a toothbrush and solvent to get some of the residue off it. Then I use a lead remover/polishing cloth to finish the job. I believe that cloth is made by Birchwood-Casey, and it contains micro-abrasives to really do a nice job. I’ve noticed over time, as my cylinder face(s) become more polished they are easier and easier to get clean.
Illinois require anyone who handles guns at a gun show show their FOID card prior to doing so
Sheesh
Rotating the cylinder at half cock @6:29 is fine on a single action because that's how you load it and it has a different lock-up. On a double action it will scratch the cylinder. Not so noticeable on stainless but if you do that on a blued Colt Python at a gun show be prepared for a 300 pound man coming across the table for you.
I can’t even afford to look at a python. I’ll restrict myself to only doing this sort of thing with Smith & Wesson revolvers that I own.
I'd rate your Revolver Check out at a solid 99% - the only thing I think one should check that wasn't mentioned in the video is to check that the barrel is not severely "clocked" (off center for those not knowing what clocked mean). This seems to be a common problem with many modern day Smith & Wesson revolvers (unfortunately). Other than that you covered all the basis that a customer should do before purchase. I'd STRONGLY suggest doing this EVEN on NEW Revolvers given the poor quality control these days.
I almost mentioned that specifically, but since I said to check the sights, I thought it seemed redundant since an improperly timed barrel (sight) should be noted at that point. In retrospect, I should have referred to it specifically.
Hi great video . Quick question when I have the trigger depressed like you had checking for end shake there is none in my ruger revolver . But when it’s not pressed there is some movement is that normal ? it’s a new gun with only 100 rounds fired
The important thing is that there is no movement at the moment the hammer falls (the point where the trigger releases the hammer). Slight movement at other times is inconsequential.
Hi. I have a new 2022 Taurus defender 605 357/38 three inch barrel. Watching your video on barrel line when I cocked the hammer and made a dry shot holding the trigger back when I released the trigger the hammer did not reset. Should it do this on the new 605 defender?
I don’t think the newer Taurus revolvers have a rebounding hammer. So your revolver should be fine.
@@hrfunk thanks very much
What if there is close to zero rotational movement on lock up for 2 of the cylinders (barely budges) but the rest of them have a very small amount of play? It's a Ruger sp101 and timing seems perfect otherwise. Not alot of rounds through it.
It sounds fine to me. A slight amount of rotational movement is normal. Excessive movement that allows the chamber to move out of alignment with the barrel is a problem.
Hi I noticed copper streaks in your barrel is that normal ? Because I got a new revolver only shot fiftey rounds and I see them on the rifling now and I cleaned excessively and they are still there I’m puzzled
Yes, that’s pretty common. Some barrels show this more than others, but most all of them exhibit it to some degree.
Cylinder gap to Forcing Cone = no more than 10 thousandhs gap
A bit off guard i was… no piano intro 😢
I love the old piano intros ,someone is very talented!
I take my own snap caps to gun shows, just in case.
Not a bad idea. Especially if you’re looking at a rimfire.
I imagine doing all these things is a good idea for a new revolver too ?
It doesn’t hurt anything to do so.
See you Sunday Howard, thanks, P.S. my Channel is just named DanTheWolfman now . I posted link below but they often disappear right away or after 2 hours as I seem to be censored. Maybe you can take the link and put it here as a Main Highlighted Comment, & Remind people on Saturday/Sunday w the link if you can by making a TH-cam Create Post that goes out. Thanks
Ok, will do. By the way, I saw you changed the name of your channel, but not until after I recorded that segment.
How do you check if you have a canted or out of alignment barrel?
Generally, if the barrel is canted, the front sight is visibly off center.
@@hrfunk ok thanks for the info. I’m going to pick a s&w 686 plus today at my ffl. I’ll make sure the barrel is not canted before I accept it. I’ve heard s&w has been putting on canted or off center barrels here and there sometimes.
What to look for in a cap and ball 1858 remington?
I’ll have to do that one in the future.
This is the guy I would say are you gonna buy it or just play with it?
why don't they have snap caps in most of the used guns at gun shows? that way people can dry fire without any damage
I don’t know, but most of the shows these days require the actions to be zip -tied so they can’t be cycled anyway.
I knew all the checks you've shown us, but I don't know the 2 pencil test?
Maybe I’ll demonstrate that in a future video. It will probably require some explanation about what the safety is and how it works.
@@hrfunk Thank you, I’m sure it will be interesting.
what is your advice choosing between 686 or j frame?
Do you want to conceal carry?
It's a Rolex 😅
By the way, I'm just joking around
Thx for the heart nice to see theres still ppl that can appreciate a lame joke
Beautifull gun btw
Thanks! I’m always happy to get any kind of joke. Even lame ones! It’s the more negative comments that can be trying.