Great tutorial. Great for inspecting your existing revolver and especially good for a not so experienced buyer to prepare themselves when they visit a gun shop to make a purchase.
Thank you for the kind words John. We always recommend taking your firearm to a certified gunsmith as each situation is unique in it's own way. Thanks for Your Business!
Great, useful info here. I didn’t know some of this stuff before buying a couple used revolvers lately. I see i got lucky, but I’ll make sure I run through these checkpoints from now on before buying.
This video has been really useful. I just bought smith and wesson model 36. I think it might've been made in the late 60s. I really like older revolvers, and from what I've learned from this video my guns not in bad shape.
One of the things I always look for on a revolver is flame cutting of the top strap above the cylinder/barrel gap. This can give an indication of a lot of use or hot load use. I also like to add drag to the cylinder with my fingers while cocking the hammer to check the timing and lockup.
I put some reverse drag on the cylinder as I double action fire into a snap cap, to make sure the lockup on Colt pistols is good. The pawl hits the locking notch almost simultaneously with the hammer drop on those old lock bar Colts. The model I have has routinely been reamed from .38 Spcl to .357 with no ill effects, provided .357 is rarely used. Colt even made a very few Diamond Backs chambered for ".357 or .38 Spcl Ctg." The last one I saw sold for around $20,000. (Colt assumes it was a prototype that was shipped to The Jewel Box Pawn & Gun Store in Phoenix Az, in 1967, along with 8 other normal .38 Speclial Diamondback 2 5/8 bbl Diamondback pistols.) All Colt's archives show for sure, is 9 of them shipped, but all showed being .38 Special ONLY. The owner of Jewel Box tried and tried to order more .357 Diamondbacks, but to no avail.
Check for flame cutting on the top strap and forcing cone condition on 357s. I usually put friction on the cylinder when cocking them to be sure of lock up. Pull the trigger briskly in double action to be sure the trigger mechanism doesn't lock up or skip cylinders.
Was given an old model 10 from '33. The thing is beat to hell, heavy holster and use/abuse wear, mysterious giant scratches around the cylinder about halfway between the ends, and loads of dings and scratches, but the action is still butter smooth, no wiggly parts, lockup is almost play-free, and the dinged-up sights are still dead on. These guns are nigh indestructible.
Mr. Potterfield, your viedos are very helpful and educational. No beating around the bush, I usually fastfoward most viedos, not yours. I noticed on my .38 model 37 a small crack on the frame under the barrel, what are my opitions on repairs if any. Don't worry I won't fire the gun Thanks,John Thanks, Jonh
Very good video; I would have included "push off" in the check for internal modifications or extreme wear. To check for that, cock the revolver into its single action hammer position, and then push forward on the hammer spur with light pressure. If the hammer releases, it is an indication of sear modification or wear, and the gun is unsafe to use.
My grandfather is giving me a few old guns including a 686, how can I be sure it'll hold the pressures? Should I just take them all in to a gunsmith before I shoot them? Probably if im already questioning it
Nah, just load it and fire the gun with your arm wrapped around a wall. You'll be on one side of the wall while your forearm, hand & gun are on the other. Thanks for your question, and remember to shop Midway USA. You have my word on it!
I always try to get watches, cars and guns made as close to my month of birth as I can. Makes the search as fun as the purchase. To complete my collection of smith and wesson revolvers I need a model 29-2
I have a question. I'm concerned I may have messed up the rear sight on my 686+. While holstered I accidentally whacked it against the counter, most likely along the rear site. Subsequently, I noticed that the rear site had movement right to left. However, at 1:30 I see exactly the same movement on this revolver, which obviously has some wear. I'll soon contact Smith and Wesson to inquire. In the meantime, I am wondering whether this sort of movement in the rear site is common, and or detrimental to the accuracy. Logically, I see no way it wouldn't be detrimental to the accuracy, but a lot of people are telling me that the movement is normal, and may not of even been caused by whacking it on the counter. Is movement in the rear site, a serious problem? Should I try and get the rear site replaced?
The cylinder to barrel gap on my M29-10 is 0.0035” on left side & 0.007” on the right, Smith & Wesson told me that is within specifications. 🤯 FOUR & A HALF THOUSANDTH OF AN INCH difference. How far the mighty have fallen. 🥺
Larry, Nice video on revolver inspection. I have a S&W 625-4, as in your video inspecting the double action timing, the trigger is rough to pull only on 2 cylinders next to each other, is this a bent crane? I inspected the ratchets and they all look the same
I just bought a Colt, and it's blatantly obvious it rode around in a holster for 20-40 years with the cylinder in the same location, so use was minimal. The tip of the barrel has the bluing worn off on the left side of the barrel tip & the muzzle, and the left side of the cylinder (as it was found in the box).. So it was worn the same way on the same side, so it had just been worn, and rarely if ever fired. I have put more lock drag marks on the cylinder in one hour of shooting than it had before. Dry firing center fire revolver is not quite as hard on them as dry firing ANYTHING rimfire. I use those rubber insert snap caps, or more expensive snap caps with a spring loaded metal primer pad.
Larry ,I like watching you on youtube , because I believe that you are more than just another gunsmith. I think your skills are unmatched .I Have a 1893 # 9 12 ga Remington Shot Gun I mgot at a yard sale The old gun is in bad condition . The cocking lever is missing and the barrel release spring is gone. do you know where I can get the parts or what I could use in place of these things . Thanks Larry . William
a bit late and not sure which will apply but there are 3 options for the 1893 ( 2 types of Number 9 ) at Numrich aka Gun Parts Corp. in their listings www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-manufacturer/remington/shotguns-rem Which will help with schematics, IMA would be another option if MIDWEST fails and then you would have to check regularly everygunpart.com/long-guns-kits.html which very sad place of guns that were cut up but all the parts saved from very bad police agencies and horrible cities.
Great, thanks, very informative. I've been using the methods from H4T- ie putting the revolver into full lockup, using a bank card to check cylinder gap, etc.
I have one like this but with the shorter barrel. My problem is the hammer is very stiff requiring substantial pressure to operate. Any ideas what could be causing this? It was my grandfathers and my father and I have used it for 20+ plus years no problem. Now all of the sudden this condition exists. I’m stumped on it. I opened it up and thoroughly inspected all of the parts. It all looks good but I’m no gunsmith. I’ll take it to one or I’ll send it into S&W but has anyone run into this on these and if so what was the fix?
Great info, thanks. I have a m64 I bought from a paen shop. The cylinder stop sometimes does not release the cylinder for advancement. I have replaced the spring and its better but, it still does it now and then. Any recommendations?
I have an old model 10 I inherited from my grandfather. It will only fire in double action, the hammer does not lock back for single action. I've broken it down and inspected it thoroughly but I'm not a "revolver guy". I cannot see anything on any interior parts that looks damaged or worn to the point of not working. I would love to see a video from you on how to repair this issue. Or if anyone else could recommend a fix/resources that would be great. I cannot find a video where anyone does a repair for this specific issue.
Take the side plate off and check the way the hammer & trigger function.Both of those pieces are case-hardended,and not likely to wear on their own. Sounds like someone has been in there monkeying with either of those 2 parts...If the hammer does not lock back,the bottom part of it is likely worn,or someone has filled it in an effort to get a smooth pull.Same goes for the trigger..
I HAVE A .357 AND THE CYLINDER STOP DOSEN'T LOCK ON ONLY ONE SPOT WHAT DOES THIS MEAN AND HOW DO I FIX IT. IT LOCKS FINE ON ALL BUT ONE PLEASE GIVE ME YOUR OPINION THANKS
Great video indeed...May I ask How do you fix the the poorly fitted yoke screw, must it always be replaced?. Is there an acepted play or end shake for the yoke? And lastly... does the edge of the cylinder touch the cylinder stop notch in the open cylinder position when aimed to the sealing?
Salve o comprato da poco una rivoltella SMITH & WESSON 30-1 in 32 lungo, ho problemi con l'estrattore della cartuccia che non fa girare il tamburo a volta si blocca e bisogna aiutarlo un po' con le mani si può trovare il ricambio? Grazie
The thumb latch is not pushing the internal rod far enough into the ejector rod plunger to clear the ejector rod. Make sure the ejector rod is tight also the thumb stud is tight. If that doesn't work you may need a gunsmith.
Also: • cock the hammer back the whole way and push on it. It shouldn't fall home unless you press the trigger! • look at the frame where it touches the ratchet when the cylinder is closed. If you can see the imprint of the ratchet on the frame, that's not good. • make sure there are no small cracks in the forcing cone, and not too much erosion
People like to slap the cilinders like in the movies and spinning the cilinders and fry fire it's the worst you can do to a revolver and dropping it on th concrete
Spinning the cylinder just puts drag marks on the cylinder unduly faster than usual, and wears down the locking pawl. You can do it, but don't make a habit of it. Flip slamming the crane & cylinder is a fabulous way to permanently damage the whole assembly and possibly even the entire frame of the gun, destroying the whole gun. Dry firing a modern center fire is not that bad, but it also put unnecessary wear on parts. It causes stressing of the firing pin's tip, and where the hammer strikes the frame. With a transfer bar safety the stresses & wear will not be as bad as with a hammer block colt type action, and worst of all, any rimfire, or old pre-drop safety guns, with no block or bar safety, you may even break the firing pin, or slam enough of a dent into the frame to drag the pin across the cartridges and jam up the action, or break the firing pin. You can do it, but don't make a habit of it, and don't be surprised if an older gun's parts break.
I have a very important question: youl note that at 1:41 he shows the endshake of the particular firearm he is examining. Is the amount of endshake at 1:41 acceptable?? I have a model 64-8 and there is a tiny bit of movement (a little less than shown at 1:41). The gun is almost brand new. The gun shop guy said it wasn't a problem but i want to make sure
+Rebelflag1201gaming you mean the end shake is LESS after a gun is worn in? I thought it gets worse with time? I am concerned I have too much end shake
+Ted Stevens I must've read that wrong getting endshake over time happens but it increases I would find a local gunsmith or do it yourself and insert a .002 ring
Hi very nice and helpfull webvideos. I need to replace the firing pin. No way to find an explanation or vodeos about howto. Yhank so much for your attention. Michel from Brussels
Mister, I'm from Brazil and I would like to see you repair and/or make an evaluation of the TAURUS RT 86 (6" barrel), caliber .38 special and the RT 96.22 lr. The smith & wesson had a factory in Brasil. And after came back to brazilians hands and the patent of S&W model 25 was possuit by both: TAURUS and S&W, that's where came the similarity.
![[Full] 4 ต่อ 4 Celebrity EP.920 | 3 พ.ย. 67 | one31](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KwiW2M_kAg4/mqdefault.jpg)
this was fantastically helpful while looking over a revolver my grandad left me. thank you for making this amazing video!
I got a model 19 from my grandfather, it’s in essentially mint condition
Best 5 minutes I have spent on a youtube video in along time. Thank you Mr. Potterfield.
Great tutorial. Great for inspecting your existing revolver and especially good for a not so experienced buyer to prepare themselves when they visit a gun shop to make a purchase.
Not just S&W, this format should apply to any revolver.
Thanks to this video, I properly diagnosed a timing issue with my Model 28 before firing it. Thanks!
Thank you for the kind words John. We always recommend taking your firearm to a certified gunsmith as each situation is unique in it's own way.
Thanks for Your Business!
Great, useful info here. I didn’t know some of this stuff before buying a couple used revolvers lately. I see i got lucky, but I’ll make sure I run through these checkpoints from now on before buying.
Thanks again for all you do for the firearms community!
Well done. Good, systematic methodology. Great refresher for the experienced, and excellent for beginners. I enjoy these videos a lot
This video has been really useful. I just bought smith and wesson model 36. I think it might've been made in the late 60s. I really like older revolvers, and from what I've learned from this video my guns not in bad shape.
Man. I could listen to Larry all day.
You guys know your stuff. I never would have thought to inspect the various screws for damage if the finish looked good.
One of the things I always look for on a revolver is flame cutting of the top strap above the cylinder/barrel gap. This can give an indication of a lot of use or hot load use.
I also like to add drag to the cylinder with my fingers while cocking the hammer to check the timing and lockup.
I put some reverse drag on the cylinder as I double action fire into a snap cap, to make sure the lockup on Colt pistols is good. The pawl hits the locking notch almost simultaneously with the hammer drop on those old lock bar Colts. The model I have has routinely been reamed from .38 Spcl to .357 with no ill effects, provided .357 is rarely used. Colt even made a very few Diamond Backs chambered for ".357 or .38 Spcl Ctg." The last one I saw sold for around $20,000. (Colt assumes it was a prototype that was shipped to The Jewel Box Pawn & Gun Store in Phoenix Az, in 1967, along with 8 other normal .38 Speclial Diamondback 2 5/8 bbl Diamondback pistols.) All Colt's archives show for sure, is 9 of them shipped, but all showed being .38 Special ONLY. The owner of Jewel Box tried and tried to order more .357 Diamondbacks, but to no avail.
Really excellent tutorial. Thanks kindly for taking the time make the video.
Check for flame cutting on the top strap and forcing cone condition on 357s. I usually put friction on the cylinder when cocking them to be sure of lock up. Pull the trigger briskly in double action to be sure the trigger mechanism doesn't lock up or skip cylinders.
Good video. Useful for new revolvers as well. Especially misaligned barrels on S&Ws.
Was given an old model 10 from '33. The thing is beat to hell, heavy holster and use/abuse wear, mysterious giant scratches around the cylinder about halfway between the ends, and loads of dings and scratches, but the action is still butter smooth, no wiggly parts, lockup is almost play-free, and the dinged-up sights are still dead on. These guns are nigh indestructible.
Awesome video. As someone wanting to branch into revolvers, this was a great tutorial.
Excellent educational video!
Wonderful video
Good information to use and assess with.
Mr. Potterfield, your viedos are very helpful and educational. No beating around the bush, I usually fastfoward most viedos, not yours. I noticed on my .38 model 37 a small crack on the frame under the barrel, what are my opitions on repairs if any. Don't worry I won't fire the gun
Thanks,John
Thanks, Jonh
Thanks for the information. Nice clear video
Model 15 combat masterpiece.Between 1967 and 1977. It's a -3.
Wish I saw this video two months earlier before I bought my last two revolvers.
Very good video; I would have included "push off" in the check for internal modifications or extreme wear. To check for that, cock the revolver into its single action hammer position, and then push forward on the hammer spur with light pressure. If the hammer releases, it is an indication of sear modification or wear, and the gun is unsafe to use.
It made me start crying with happiness
Outstanding
Great video!
I have a model 15 and have been wondering what I should be looking for when checking it’s functionality and general condition.
Thanks.
Excellent
Miss your vids Larry. You need another series to teach us.
My grandfather is giving me a few old guns including a 686, how can I be sure it'll hold the pressures? Should I just take them all in to a gunsmith before I shoot them?
Probably if im already questioning it
Nah, just load it and fire the gun with your arm wrapped around a wall. You'll be on one side of the wall while your forearm, hand & gun are on the other. Thanks for your question, and remember to shop Midway USA. You have my word on it!
I always try to get watches, cars and guns made as close to my month of birth as I can. Makes the search as fun as the purchase.
To complete my collection of smith and wesson revolvers I need a model 29-2
Also on thin barrels run fingers close to the frame to feel for bulging.
1:41 Actually, I don't see any problem with it. I know at that time several gunsmiths had been fired from Nagant and employed by S&W.
Very informative and well said
I have a question. I'm concerned I may have messed up the rear sight on my 686+. While holstered I accidentally whacked it against the counter, most likely along the rear site. Subsequently, I noticed that the rear site had movement right to left.
However, at 1:30 I see exactly the same movement on this revolver, which obviously has some wear.
I'll soon contact Smith and Wesson to inquire. In the meantime, I am wondering whether this sort of movement in the rear site is common, and or detrimental to the accuracy. Logically, I see no way it wouldn't be detrimental to the accuracy, but a lot of people are telling me that the movement is normal, and may not of even been caused by whacking it on the counter.
Is movement in the rear site, a serious problem? Should I try and get the rear site replaced?
Thank you. Excellent video.
My brand new S&W M29-10 has .003” cylinder to barrel gap on one side and .0075” on the other. S&W said it’s within spec. 🤯
They aren’t hand fitted by real craftsmen like the old ones
very good
The cylinder to barrel gap on my M29-10 is 0.0035” on left side & 0.007” on the right, Smith & Wesson told me that is within specifications. 🤯 FOUR & A HALF THOUSANDTH OF AN INCH difference. How far the mighty have fallen. 🥺
Larry, Nice video on revolver inspection. I have a S&W 625-4, as in your video inspecting the double action timing, the trigger is rough to pull only on 2 cylinders next to each other, is this a bent crane? I inspected the ratchets and they all look the same
Very good video. Thank you
Happy 4th of July.
A fantastic tutorial, thank you!
I just bought a Colt, and it's blatantly obvious it rode around in a holster for 20-40 years with the cylinder in the same location, so use was minimal. The tip of the barrel has the bluing worn off on the left side of the barrel tip & the muzzle, and the left side of the cylinder (as it was found in the box).. So it was worn the same way on the same side, so it had just been worn, and rarely if ever fired. I have put more lock drag marks on the cylinder in one hour of shooting than it had before. Dry firing center fire revolver is not quite as hard on them as dry firing ANYTHING rimfire. I use those rubber insert snap caps, or more expensive snap caps with a spring loaded metal primer pad.
Larry ,I like watching you on youtube , because I believe that you are more than just another gunsmith. I think your skills are unmatched .I Have a 1893 # 9 12 ga Remington Shot Gun I mgot at a yard sale The old gun is in bad condition . The cocking lever is missing and the barrel release spring is gone. do you know where I can get the parts or what I could use in place of these things . Thanks Larry . William
a bit late and not sure which will apply but there are 3 options for the 1893 ( 2 types of Number 9 ) at Numrich aka Gun Parts Corp. in their listings www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-manufacturer/remington/shotguns-rem Which will help with schematics, IMA would be another option if MIDWEST fails and then you would have to check regularly everygunpart.com/long-guns-kits.html which very sad place of guns that were cut up but all the parts saved from very bad police agencies and horrible cities.
Mr Potterfield would refinishing the stock of my model 69 Winchester rifle reduce the value?
All my guns would be better maintained if I had a shop Like Larry's.
Great, thanks, very informative. I've been using the methods from H4T- ie putting the revolver into full lockup, using a bank card to check cylinder gap, etc.
I came across a blue steel 357 s&w
im speechless!
What happens when the ejector rods doesn't want to push it has junk and I believe permit screw paste on my;S&W 357
One thing not mentioned is hammer push off, or testing to see if the hammer will fall with pressure applied to the back of the hammer spur.
I have one like this but with the shorter barrel. My problem is the hammer is very stiff requiring substantial pressure to operate. Any ideas what could be causing this? It was my grandfathers and my father and I have used it for 20+ plus years no problem. Now all of the sudden this condition exists. I’m stumped on it. I opened it up and thoroughly inspected all of the parts. It all looks good but I’m no gunsmith. I’ll take it to one or I’ll send it into S&W but has anyone run into this on these and if so what was the fix?
Excellent!
Great info, thanks. I have a m64 I bought from a paen shop. The cylinder stop sometimes does not release the cylinder for advancement. I have replaced the spring and its better but, it still does it now and then. Any recommendations?
Can you make a video of how to free up the thumb price so that the Cillinder can open
Can you make a video of how to free up the thumb price so that the celinder can open
Where can I find the Serial Numbers for the S&W 28-2? I've had my fathers for 54 years and would like to know when it was Made. Thanks.
I have an old model 10 I inherited from my grandfather. It will only fire in double action, the hammer does not lock back for single action. I've broken it down and inspected it thoroughly but I'm not a "revolver guy". I cannot see anything on any interior parts that looks damaged or worn to the point of not working. I would love to see a video from you on how to repair this issue. Or if anyone else could recommend a fix/resources that would be great. I cannot find a video where anyone does a repair for this specific issue.
Take the side plate off and check the way the hammer & trigger function.Both of those pieces are case-hardended,and not likely to wear on their own. Sounds like someone has been in there monkeying with either of those 2 parts...If the hammer does not lock back,the bottom part of it is likely worn,or someone has filled it in an effort to get a smooth pull.Same goes for the trigger..
It's the sear pin is worn out. That's why it won't stay cocked.
I HAVE A .357 AND THE CYLINDER STOP DOSEN'T LOCK ON ONLY ONE SPOT WHAT DOES THIS MEAN AND HOW DO I FIX IT. IT LOCKS FINE ON ALL BUT ONE PLEASE GIVE ME YOUR OPINION THANKS
Great video indeed...May I ask How do you fix the the poorly fitted yoke screw, must it always be replaced?. Is there an acepted play or end shake for the yoke? And lastly... does the edge of the cylinder touch the cylinder stop notch in the open cylinder position when aimed to the sealing?
You can switch the number one yolk screw with the number two to tighten the tolerance. Watch gunblue 490 video
thanks for the informacion nice video bro
Salve o comprato da poco una rivoltella SMITH & WESSON 30-1 in 32 lungo, ho problemi con l'estrattore della cartuccia che non fa girare il tamburo a volta si blocca e bisogna aiutarlo un po' con le mani si può trovare il ricambio? Grazie
Larry rules. BAMF
I have an old pre model 10 that hangs up when opening and closing the cylinder. Any ideas?
The thumb latch is not pushing the internal rod far enough into the ejector rod plunger to clear the ejector rod. Make sure the ejector rod is tight also the thumb stud is tight. If that doesn't work you may need a gunsmith.
I just bought a 2" model 10-5 the locking bolt protrudes slightly past the barrel is this cause for concern?
Would have loved to know the model and year.
Do you check the back strap for ware from shooting loads too hot and cylinder slap denting?
What do you do if your cylinder gap exceeds the maximum tolerance?
I’d probably send it in to s&w.
So, is thos particular example a pass?
Good stuff
The trigger on my 29-3 will not operate with the cylinder open as in the video. Is there something wrong with the gun?
Also:
• cock the hammer back the whole way and push on it. It shouldn't fall home unless you press the trigger!
• look at the frame where it touches the ratchet when the cylinder is closed. If you can see the imprint of the ratchet on the frame, that's not good.
• make sure there are no small cracks in the forcing cone, and not too much erosion
would somebody know a video that shows what happens when the cylinder stop dosent actualy pop back to lock the cylinder as it fires?
People like to slap the cilinders like in the movies and spinning the cilinders and fry fire it's the worst you can do to a revolver and dropping it on th concrete
+Joe Guzman Some owners say that doing it adds "character" to the revolver! LOL What a bunch of idiots.
Joe Guzman what is fry fire
swinging the cylinder shut is a sure fire way to throw off your timing.
And it will bend the truss-rod.
Spinning the cylinder just puts drag marks on the cylinder unduly faster than usual, and wears down the locking pawl. You can do it, but don't make a habit of it. Flip slamming the crane & cylinder is a fabulous way to permanently damage the whole assembly and possibly even the entire frame of the gun, destroying the whole gun. Dry firing a modern center fire is not that bad, but it also put unnecessary wear on parts. It causes stressing of the firing pin's tip, and where the hammer strikes the frame. With a transfer bar safety the stresses & wear will not be as bad as with a hammer block colt type action, and worst of all, any rimfire, or old pre-drop safety guns, with no block or bar safety, you may even break the firing pin, or slam enough of a dent into the frame to drag the pin across the cartridges and jam up the action, or break the firing pin. You can do it, but don't make a habit of it, and don't be surprised if an older gun's parts break.
Love the video, but man this guy reminds me of buster Scruggs so much. Ironic that he’s an expert on revolvers
Check for a ringed barrel with a bore light.
How do you take the injectors rod out
How much rattle of cylinder from side to side is allowed?
3-6 thousandths I believe
Front to rear that is
0:25 Gone out a notch Larry?
would you happen to know what the cylinder gap between the forcing cone is for a 38 cal rimfire spure trigger bulldozer revolver
I have a very important question:
youl note that at 1:41 he shows the endshake of the particular firearm he is examining. Is the amount of endshake at 1:41 acceptable?? I have a model 64-8 and there is a tiny bit of movement (a little less than shown at 1:41). The gun is almost brand new. The gun shop guy said it wasn't a problem but i want to make sure
that just means your gun isn't worn in yet
+Rebelflag1201gaming you mean the end shake is LESS after a gun is worn in? I thought it gets worse with time? I am concerned I have too much end shake
+Ted Stevens I must've read that wrong getting endshake over time happens but it increases I would find a local gunsmith or do it yourself and insert a .002 ring
Love My 586
The revolver in this video is in good or bad condition?
Fair-good
do you know revolver alpha proj 3541s stainless 357magnum construction czech republic opinion thanks in advance
On my 85 686 i cant pull back the hammer with the cylinder open, is this normal?
yes push the cilinder latch thumb piece back ,its blocking the hammer with cilinder open its also normal with all s W revolvers
Yes,it's normal. Just hold the cylinder lock back while cocking.
Thank you!
4:35
Is it safe to fire plus p rounds in a 10-8 smith and Wesson revolver
I wouldn't do it. That gun is probably 40 years old and isn't rated for +p.
Exelente 👏👏👏👏 muito bom!!
Hi very nice and helpfull webvideos. I need to replace the firing pin. No way to find an explanation or vodeos about howto. Yhank so much for your attention. Michel from Brussels
Yam you make a video on how to DCOA a remington 700 bolt
I know there are a lot variables involved but, can you give a ballpark estimate on how much a good revolver would cost from a pawn shop?
Gene Rollins impossible question
Si vende online? Quante joule ha? 3
Mister, I'm from Brazil and I would like to see you repair and/or make an evaluation of the TAURUS RT 86 (6" barrel), caliber .38 special and the RT 96.22 lr.
The smith & wesson had a factory in Brasil. And after came back to brazilians hands and the patent of S&W model 25 was possuit by both: TAURUS and S&W, that's where came the similarity.
Why are you doing only S.& W. Revolvers.
👍
You ever try to take that fn side screw off
Poner subtitulos para que tu pueblo latino entienda las indicaciones de lo que estas enseñando.
Hello
Or how to play "find the f-ups"