i have the same snapper pushmower never knew it was vintage though. it still runs. but it uses alot of oil and just aint fit for mowing todays lawns mostly because after you get done its hot and smoking bad :( recently the fly wheel stopped turning.
This may be hard to believe but I swear on Andy Griffith and Hickok45. Those two being the ultimate southern gentlemen and not to be swore on lightly. I bought one of these at least 15 years ago for basically a little side yard mower, I have extensively used this mower every single year and have changed the oil only three times and two spark plugs. This has been the best $25 I have ever spent, cranks and runs every time. It won’t cut wet tall grass but a sharp blade and my ground full of centipede it looks professional. If u see one, buy it, without question.
These ones are cool but I should of looked a little closer at them before taking the engines off. I think I can save only 2 of the 3 since one has a bent crank.
Thanks for the comments! Nice to know someone else is crazy about restoring old lawn mowers. Currently working on a Mono chainsaw. Sadly I have not done much to these since the last mower video due to money issues.
I've got an old hi-vac snapper I'm wanting to get running....do you have an electrical diagram of one of these mowers for I assume it's the same on mine? Thank you
Thats great...I got the two I had for 20 I believe traded the restored one for 72 feet worth of fencing and the other one was bought as soon as I got it running...my customer didn't even wait for me to repaint the thing lol.
The Carb is pretty basic on that one, just this diaphram and a good cleaning should get it back up and running. Might double check the part number you need by entering in your engine model number located on the front of the engine where the spark plug is. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035Q4GAG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have one like the one on the left it runs but won't stay running seems to be when it's cold it starts right up but then won't restart when hot or warmed up could that be the head gasket
Sounds like you have an ignition coil problem. When they heat up they can loose spark and cause your engine to die. When it dies out on you the next time, take out your spark plug and ground it to the head of the motor, then turn over the engine. If you dont have spark then your ignition coil is bad. New coil is about 30 bucks.
I just picked up one like the commercial grade on the left, including bag. I believe it just needs a diaphragm and carb cleaning. What is your opinion on re-painting? I'm not looking to re-sell but thinking long-term, would it hold value more as "used" looking or "new" looking? Anybody? Thanks!
Well it kinda depends on the condition of it, if it has most of the factory paint in tact then it might be good do just do a sympathetic restoration, so clean it all really well, maybe repaint the engine depending on how it looks but keep the deck as a new / old combination. If its very hammered all around then it would be worth it to repaint. The prettier it looks the more money you could get out of it. Would hold its value as a new to good condition. Of course this all depends on what someone is willing to pay for it.
Have you rebuilt any of the drive transmission in these or others similar to? I am rebuilding one of three i have and have a question that so far is unanswered. The geared shaft that turns the belt seems to have no way to seal the oil from coming out. The cuts/slots on the shaft that the pulley mounts onto extend thru the bearing and into into the case. There is no way to seal short of siliconing the keyways. Or placing o-rings at exit of case, followed by washer, then o- ring, pulley, then o- ring, then washer, finally the mount bot. I know that none of this is done factory but I am always finding oil escaping and ending up on the pulley and belt. Any thoughts? Thanks
Sorry for the late reply! Did not see your comment until now. I know in the transmission they used 00 grease (double o grease) which is more grease than oil. If you used regular oil it would get everywhere since it has no binder to keep it in check. I have only opened the transmission on the 1988 Snapper to see how the components were wearing and then re-greased it. Stuff isn't cheap but it does last quite awhile. I can open up and dissect one of the transmissions I have if that would help your situation. Hope this information is helpful. Thanks for watching!
vintage fixer thanks, I have since found just what you said 00 lubricant. Now I looking into substitutes since snapper is very proud of the grease they don't manufacture by brand it as theirs. Found plenty of 00 options and a NAPA option called EP-1.
Your welcome, again sorry about the late reply. This is the stuff I have used in my 1988 mower: www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/part/universal/770127?gclid=eaiaiqobchmirloo98v82givklqgch3iegq6eaqybiabeglwb_d_bwe Seems to work just fine, no leaks. Hope you have good luck in repairing your problem!
vintage fixer finishing the rebuild on one, took off the drive from the mower to install the rebuild. a Thought I would clean and check out why the old one was alway leaking oil. Other than the obvious at the output pulley shaft I found a place where I would have never thought to look at. I drained the lub that was in it and then filled with gasoline to clean and look for leaks since with gas it should leak like a sieve. Of course it leaked at the pulley shaft but did not leak a drop on either axle shaft seal or body halves seal! The place it leaked was a surprise, it leaked around the pulley guard mount studs. I will taking the rebuilt apart and sealing the studs from the inside before I put it into use.
I repair and sell lawnmowers for a living, I own my own shop, I have used and repaired almost every type of mower out there, best hands down is snapper pre 2000 to be exact, I own quite a few snappers, from a 72 commercial to a newer 95 fully decked out snapper commercial, also a few lawnboy pre 95, glad you fix em up, keep up the good work.
I would love to own my own shop, maybe when I retire or start it as a side business. Problem is dealing with the public... Man there are some choice people in this world. Out of all your Snappers which one is your favorite to use? Thanks for the comment! :D
Ebay is your best friend when it comes to these things. Sometimes the best bet is to purchase a donor mower off of craigslist or other public sale site. Fb marketplace, offerup, etc. The most expensive parts are the wheels and the bags for these snappers. Good luck in your quest!
I find a parts explosion usually at partstree or jacksmallengines and then if the parts are not available I go through Ebay to order parts. You can do a model number search on the engine or mower and usually get the diagram.
That's a very nice snapper you picked up! If the blade is straight and not bent, and the bag is in good condition then I would be asking 200 for it since it has the electric start. Nice find.
vintage fixer yes the bag and blade is good i cleaned it up its pretty sharp looking now I'm just going to ask around $50 for it thanks for the reply though.
I have the one on the right. Do you have an email I can message you on? I'm trying to fix it up but dont know how to and could really use the help since you seem like you have some knowledge
There are lots of good youtube tutorials for these types of Briggs and Stratton Engines. It can be a fun learning experience! The cost of restoring these can get quite pricey but it all depends on how far you want to go. The Bag and wheels will run you the most and then the other parts will nickel and dime you. Rough guesstimate I had on my 1988 is probably close to 200 or so. And that is without the bag or wheels. This is a 2 part series on the type of carb and how to clean it. th-cam.com/video/fdFrniPyBwE/w-d-xo.html This channel also has a lot of videos on repairing mowers th-cam.com/users/hanksrangerfeatured I do not currently have an email for my youtube account, but if you get stuck your more than welcome to reply on this thread. Just go slow and make sure you take pictures and organize your parts in labeled ziploc bags. It would be wise to make sure it will run before you go about fixing it up. Check that you have oil, and spray some starting fluid or carb clean into the air cleaner throat.
It's not running. The recoiler broke so that needs replaced and the wires are not connected to the motor. I was trying to find out how to connect them back. The wires I'm talking about are the gas lever, self propel and red lever that changes self propel speed if yours has that.
I have another snapper that is a beauty that runs fine but this one was a rare find to me since it's the same year but has a different motor and has self propel and electric start. It needs a new battery but I'm not worried be cause the plug that plugs into the electric start has a little plug for the cord missing so I dont know if I could find a new one of that.
Those can be a pain to fix, you can take just the recoil off and take it to a repair shop and they will install new recoil rope and spring. If you try and do it yourself be careful of the spring. It can uncoil and get ya. If I had access to my mower I would make a little video for you. and walk you through it. However I cannot in my current living situation. Might want to do some youtube watching on the Briggs motor. The red lever for your self propelled should connect near the rubber wheel on the deck. If your mower still has its model number decal on the deck it can give you an exploded view of your mower. www.snapper.parts/Find-Your-Snapper-Model-Number
@@MrTL117 I'm sorry to hear that. Unfortunately I have to do it by myself because mower shops around me dont work on mowers before 2000 which is frustrating. Will the website show me where to connect the cables from the handlebars to the motor?
I don't know very much, I just like working on the older mowers and how they look. I would research it online and learn as much as you can about it and find out why it's worth that much.
i have the same snapper pushmower never knew it was vintage though. it still runs. but it uses alot of oil and just aint fit for mowing todays lawns mostly because after you get done its hot and smoking bad :( recently the fly wheel stopped turning.
Sounds like it needs a complete overhaul of the cylinder and piston or a repower anyway
@@MrTL117 thanks I'll definitely take a look at it!
Just picked up the same vintage as the first one you mentioned but mine is a 2 stroke - wild little thing for a free dump find 😅
This may be hard to believe but I swear on Andy Griffith and Hickok45. Those two being the ultimate southern gentlemen and not to be swore on lightly. I bought one of these at least 15 years ago for basically a little side yard mower, I have extensively used this mower every single year and have changed the oil only three times and two spark plugs. This has been the best $25 I have ever spent, cranks and runs every time. It won’t cut wet tall grass but a sharp blade and my ground full of centipede it looks professional. If u see one, buy it, without question.
Those are awesome man. Old snappers are really cool
These ones are cool but I should of looked a little closer at them before taking the engines off. I think I can save only 2 of the 3 since one has a bent crank.
That's really good and awesome
I'm just the same thing as you man I love to restore old lawn mowers
Joseph lama from Auckland New Zealand 🇳🇿
Thanks for the comments! Nice to know someone else is crazy about restoring old lawn mowers. Currently working on a Mono chainsaw. Sadly I have not done much to these since the last mower video due to money issues.
I've got an old hi-vac snapper I'm wanting to get running....do you have an electrical diagram of one of these mowers for I assume it's the same on mine? Thank you
Love that old Snapper! They looked and worked better when they were newer... Should fix them and sell them to collectors..
I hope to restore one of my dad's old snappers that I recently got running again after many years of sitting in the barn. Thanks for the video!
Good luck! With some elbow grease and paint it can serve you well! Thanks for the comment!
Thats great...I got the two I had for 20 I believe traded the restored one for 72 feet worth of fencing and the other one was bought as soon as I got it running...my customer didn't even wait for me to repaint the thing lol.
If you find the right person they can be gone quick!
have 3 snapper 2 vintage in 80s one has electric start
does the cast aluminum one have an alum chute too?
It has a plastic chute like the one next to it except they used a red plastic which in this case is very sun faded.
@@MrTL117 OH, LOL, are you aware of any metal chutes?
I think there might be one type that has a metal chute, the riding mowers do have a metal side discharge chute.
Post model numbers if you have them
Did you want the model numbers from the snapper or the briggs engine?
Snapper
Hey, I need a bit help finding a carburetor rebuild kit, my snapper is just like the one with the SNAPPER still visible
The mom commercial but still has a engine in it one
The Carb is pretty basic on that one, just this diaphram and a good cleaning should get it back up and running. Might double check the part number you need by entering in your engine model number located on the front of the engine where the spark plug is. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035Q4GAG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Well I need a new bowl sealer and I think my brother wants to replace some other things
That should be the bowl sealer you need unless the engine is different from that one
vintage fixer thanks
I have one like the one on the left it runs but won't stay running seems to be when it's cold it starts right up but then won't restart when hot or warmed up could that be the head gasket
Sounds like you have an ignition coil problem. When they heat up they can loose spark and cause your engine to die. When it dies out on you the next time, take out your spark plug and ground it to the head of the motor, then turn over the engine. If you dont have spark then your ignition coil is bad. New coil is about 30 bucks.
@@MrTL117 thank you I'm going to try it I have electronic ignition coil another four and a half Briggs would that work
Its possible it might work but there are slight differences in briggs motors. Wouldn't hurt to give it a try
Thanks for the info i tried the electronic ignition coil and it worked run great now
I just picked up one like the commercial grade on the left, including bag. I believe it just needs a diaphragm and carb cleaning. What is your opinion on re-painting? I'm not looking to re-sell but thinking long-term, would it hold value more as "used" looking or "new" looking? Anybody?
Thanks!
Well it kinda depends on the condition of it, if it has most of the factory paint in tact then it might be good do just do a sympathetic restoration, so clean it all really well, maybe repaint the engine depending on how it looks but keep the deck as a new / old combination. If its very hammered all around then it would be worth it to repaint. The prettier it looks the more money you could get out of it. Would hold its value as a new to good condition. Of course this all depends on what someone is willing to pay for it.
Have you rebuilt any of the drive transmission in these or others similar to? I am rebuilding one of three i have and have a question that so far is unanswered. The geared shaft that turns the belt seems to have no way to seal the oil from coming out. The cuts/slots on the shaft that the pulley mounts onto extend thru the bearing and into into the case. There is no way to seal short of siliconing the keyways. Or placing o-rings at exit of case, followed by washer, then o- ring, pulley, then o- ring, then washer, finally the mount bot. I know that none of this is done factory but I am always finding oil escaping and ending up on the pulley and belt. Any thoughts? Thanks
Sorry for the late reply! Did not see your comment until now. I know in the transmission they used 00 grease (double o grease) which is more grease than oil. If you used regular oil it would get everywhere since it has no binder to keep it in check. I have only opened the transmission on the 1988 Snapper to see how the components were wearing and then re-greased it. Stuff isn't cheap but it does last quite awhile. I can open up and dissect one of the transmissions I have if that would help your situation. Hope this information is helpful. Thanks for watching!
vintage fixer thanks, I have since found just what you said 00 lubricant. Now I looking into substitutes since snapper is very proud of the grease they don't manufacture by brand it as theirs. Found plenty of 00 options and a NAPA option called EP-1.
Your welcome, again sorry about the late reply. This is the stuff I have used in my 1988 mower:
www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/part/universal/770127?gclid=eaiaiqobchmirloo98v82givklqgch3iegq6eaqybiabeglwb_d_bwe
Seems to work just fine, no leaks. Hope you have good luck in repairing your problem!
vintage fixer finishing the rebuild on one, took off the drive from the mower to install the rebuild. a Thought I would clean and check out why the old one was alway leaking oil. Other than the obvious at the output pulley shaft I found a place where I would have never thought to look at. I drained the lub that was in it and then filled with gasoline to clean and look for leaks since with gas it should leak like a sieve. Of course it leaked at the pulley shaft but did not leak a drop on either axle shaft seal or body halves seal! The place it leaked was a surprise, it leaked around the pulley guard mount studs. I will taking the rebuilt apart and sealing the studs from the inside before I put it into use.
Interesting, I will need to remember that when I rebuild mine in the future. Thanks for the update!
I repair and sell lawnmowers for a living, I own my own shop, I have used and repaired almost every type of mower out there, best hands down is snapper pre 2000 to be exact, I own quite a few snappers, from a 72 commercial to a newer 95 fully decked out snapper commercial, also a few lawnboy pre 95, glad you fix em up, keep up the good work.
I would love to own my own shop, maybe when I retire or start it as a side business. Problem is dealing with the public... Man there are some choice people in this world. Out of all your Snappers which one is your favorite to use? Thanks for the comment! :D
vintage fixer the hi vac snapper, just like the second one here in the video, always gives the perfect cut.
Just trying to get into restoring my push mower just like this. Could you tell me where I could purchase parts. Would highly appreciate it.thanks
Ebay is your best friend when it comes to these things. Sometimes the best bet is to purchase a donor mower off of craigslist or other public sale site. Fb marketplace, offerup, etc. The most expensive parts are the wheels and the bags for these snappers. Good luck in your quest!
Nice job. I'm repairing a few toro's and stuff on my channel. Cheers Calvin
Im you're 34th subscriber
Thanks for subscribing! Hopefully get a video up this weekend
seeking 12h02-2677-E1 for one on my big 6 snapper pickup for 20.00 everything is there but bad motor
Not bad for 20 bucks
Those old 3.5 hps dont have enough power to run those mowers. I put a bigger Quantom on mine.
After I restored one with new rings it has plenty of power for cutting, but if it ever dies out I will look into the larger engines
where do you get parts for those lawn mowers
I find a parts explosion usually at partstree or jacksmallengines and then if the parts are not available I go through Ebay to order parts. You can do a model number search on the engine or mower and usually get the diagram.
nice check out my snapper I just found also what's the value on the one I have with a electric start i think it's a 1987
That's a very nice snapper you picked up! If the blade is straight and not bent, and the bag is in good condition then I would be asking 200 for it since it has the electric start. Nice find.
vintage fixer yes the bag and blade is good i cleaned it up its pretty sharp looking now I'm just going to ask around $50 for it thanks for the reply though.
was that dog river?
That would be Bandit
is this mower for sale i am intrested in the 1980s one
Not currently for sale, sorry
I have the one on the right. Do you have an email I can message you on? I'm trying to fix it up but dont know how to and could really use the help since you seem like you have some knowledge
There are lots of good youtube tutorials for these types of Briggs and Stratton Engines. It can be a fun learning experience! The cost of restoring these can get quite pricey but it all depends on how far you want to go. The Bag and wheels will run you the most and then the other parts will nickel and dime you. Rough guesstimate I had on my 1988 is probably close to 200 or so. And that is without the bag or wheels.
This is a 2 part series on the type of carb and how to clean it.
th-cam.com/video/fdFrniPyBwE/w-d-xo.html
This channel also has a lot of videos on repairing mowers
th-cam.com/users/hanksrangerfeatured
I do not currently have an email for my youtube account, but if you get stuck your more than welcome to reply on this thread. Just go slow and make sure you take pictures and organize your parts in labeled ziploc bags.
It would be wise to make sure it will run before you go about fixing it up. Check that you have oil, and spray some starting fluid or carb clean into the air cleaner throat.
It's not running. The recoiler broke so that needs replaced and the wires are not connected to the motor. I was trying to find out how to connect them back. The wires I'm talking about are the gas lever, self propel and red lever that changes self propel speed if yours has that.
I have another snapper that is a beauty that runs fine but this one was a rare find to me since it's the same year but has a different motor and has self propel and electric start. It needs a new battery but I'm not worried be cause the plug that plugs into the electric start has a little plug for the cord missing so I dont know if I could find a new one of that.
Those can be a pain to fix, you can take just the recoil off and take it to a repair shop and they will install new recoil rope and spring. If you try and do it yourself be careful of the spring. It can uncoil and get ya. If I had access to my mower I would make a little video for you. and walk you through it. However I cannot in my current living situation. Might want to do some youtube watching on the Briggs motor. The red lever for your self propelled should connect near the rubber wheel on the deck. If your mower still has its model number decal on the deck it can give you an exploded view of your mower.
www.snapper.parts/Find-Your-Snapper-Model-Number
@@MrTL117 I'm sorry to hear that. Unfortunately I have to do it by myself because mower shops around me dont work on mowers before 2000 which is frustrating. Will the website show me where to connect the cables from the handlebars to the motor?
Do you know a lot about mowers? Because i have an old torro that i'm told could be worth $200 to $400.
I don't know very much, I just like working on the older mowers and how they look. I would research it online and learn as much as you can about it and find out why it's worth that much.
vintage fixer Alright, thank you for the help
Snapper lawn mowers are the best lawnmowers if your over 6ft tall lol
lol yes, I qualify for sure
Other lawn mowers make me slauch way to much and my upper back hurts using them lol
I agree with you on that one! Things aren't made for tall people usually