One trick I commonly use to prevent cross-threading a bolt is to spin it backwards against the nut until I feel the threads seat themselves. The threads will ride along each other until you reach the end/beginning and the bolt will seat/drop into place. Once I feel the bolt seat itself, I hand tighten in the proper direction to ensure that it's threading properly. Learned that trick when working on computers years ago and found I could apply it to any bolt/nut situation.
+Reboot153 Super rare for it to not work. Sometimes a little previous cross threading gives that trick a "false positive" that'd encourage you to cross thread again. Great tip!
Cupped tread wear can also be an indication of bent/worn/loose suspension components (ball joint, wheel bearing, shock absorber, springs, bushings, sway bar, upper strut mount, broken/damaged frame/welds, etc.), internal delaminating tire belts/plies, improper tire/wheel assembly balance, bent wheel/hub/spindle, worn/broken shock absorbers and in some less frequent cases alignment. There are different types of cupping, some are symmetric, some are asymmetric, some are concentric, some appear scalloped and uneven. Each different type is indicative of different causes. Sometimes heel-toe tread wear is mistaken for cupping/scalloping. Several tire manufacturers and some suspension component manufacturers have illustrated guides to help identify the causes of tread wear. One last item, it is usually recommended to replace shock absorbers in axle pairs to maintain stability and control during braking and adverse conditions.
jrmym2 They certainly can be, but there are methods that use rater simple tools to inspect, test and measure to narrow down most problems and symptoms. A pair of long pry bars, Channel-Locks, a hydraulic jack and a tape measure coupled up with a thorough visual and shake/push/pull inspection will usually reveal most problems. There are specific measurements referenced to frame and body locations to quickly determine body/frame misalignment. Google or the search engine of your choice can usually provide the needed measurements and visual cues to make a good diagnosis and facilitate a repair.
To stop cross threading I like to turn the bolt counter-clockwise first to feel that click of the first thread and then tighten by hand. Works real good on wood to stop recutting the wood and useful when you are trying to align a bolt you have to start blind.
Sometimes, spotting a bad shock or strut just takes experience. I recently ran into a pair that I knew were bad. The car just didn't seem to ride right. There was no fluid leaking, and the car didn't bounce its way down the highway. Even jouncing the car didn't show any signs of wear. But, upon removing the struts to replace them, I found the jounce was completely ruined (rod sunk on its own), but the rebound was nearly flawless. Weird! Another great video, Brian! Thanks! :D
Hey Brian! I appreciate all of the information, if any Mazdas come in for repair work could you upload them, there are tons of info and even these struts are similar. But your explanation is so basic and it takes out the "difficultly" that way a tad for me. Cheers buddy take care!
Great!! Thanks. What about the front struts? I have a 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD (Common Rail Diesel) 4x4 that both the inside tires are worn bad on the inside. My daughter has the same vehicle and problem. I bet you are LOVIN' the new lift. Thanks for the videos.
+Teddy Carley That sounds like it needs an alignment if they are just worn on the inside. Negative camber causes wear on the inside of the tires (tires are leaning toward the center of the vehicle which raises the outside edges off the surface of the road).
I am big fan of yours videos and work Brian, so please don't take it the wrong way. Question 1. Do you ever use torque wrenches on suspensions. I know, you said before, and many thinks that if you were working years with torque wrench you have a feeling in your hand. Maybe you could do video and compare your 'hand feeling' with torque wrench? I just doubt you can be precise enough without it - Sorry my background is aero engines so I am a bit obsessed with torquing bolts to spec :) Question 2. Why you haven't use antisieze past? Very rarely can see you using it? Is there any particular reason? Question 3. Perhaps is not good idea to say all struts are so easy. If you have Mc Person, or you have to adjust your geometry afterwards, might a bit more complicated that this one? Looking forward for answers, and good luck with another films.
thanks! your videos are excellent. very helpful. keep up the good work. maybe a video on vehicle inspection prior to a long trip video would be a good project?
I've got similar wear on my summer tires, not really sure what to look at. I haven't noticed the oscillating ride problems like you mentioned, but do get some vibration on the road. When I switched to my winters the vibration went away. I'm not sure if it went away because the tires are cupped, or because of balance issues but I asked a local highschool shop to check the balance on them anyway to rule that out. Other than that different sources online say anything from inflation problems, to shocks, to balance, and others for the cause of cupping on tires. Not really sure where to look.
Hey Andy, anything that makes the tire oscillate will cause that wear patern. even a bent rim. on mine, the wear was happening on both sides the same & miles are high enough to suspect the factory shocks are bad. (138k miles)
Cross threading is easy to avoid if you don't use air/power tools to reinstall fasteners. Been working on a variety of vehicles for 30+ years and have yet to cross thread a bolt or fastener.
No one has ever needed me to replace shocks, just struts...hmmm, this video confirms my thinking that they are the same! lol Maybe in their style these are shocks and others are struts? You gave Schrodingers Box a shout out? How giving, man! I'm enjoying his scream at your screen for sure! lol
1. Can this procedure be performed with the vehicle on the ground and rolling in the dirt? 2. This is the exact next thing I need to do for my 93 silverado war pig. When the rusted up bolts snap off should I get like a grade 8 bolt for strength, or a stainless steel one, or a 43 dollar oem one?
The shocks on my TJ where so bad that sometimes that I shifted, the whole car rocked like a rocking chair down the road. When I took them out, they didn't even moved when I compressed them.
Brian, where did you get your lift? Is it possible to rent one for cheap? I have an 02 Exploder and will need to do all of the suspension soon for inspection and have a few other things I need to fix on it that a lift would make easier than a jack and stands.
Brian!! I NEED YOUR HELP!!! I installed TWO brand new buyautoparts drive shafts on my 2011 forester and they both vibrate like crazy at 35mph, put the old one back on and it stops... what am i doing wrong? or are they just junk driveshafts? thanks man!
Shocks arrrre easy, unless they are rusted like crazy. Had no choice but to cut my nuts and bolts on the top of my rears ('99 Dakota), replaced them with grade 8 bolts. Now onto my '07 Subaru Outback, it has 80k miles and the driver's side is sagging front and rear. Measuring from the peak of the wheel well arch/fender flare to the center of the wheel, there is an inch difference side to side, 16" on driver's side and 17" on passenger's side. Now it doesn't bounce a long time after hitting bumps, but do I need new struts? The Detroit Lean is driving me crazy!
I hope you are still paying attention. I am doing the rear shocks on my 1992 Ford F150. I cut the restraining strap on my shock but the bottom of the shock slipped out of the bracket. I don't have a lift so is there any way I can jack the truck so that the shock lines up with the bottom bracket better?
briansmobile if ever you have any idea of the phenomena of sudden unintentionall acceleration SUA. It is happening to a particular model of MITSUBISHI MONTERO SOLD IN ÀMERICA AS A OUTLANDER . If you search the yutube you will see videos in the Philippines showing the vehicle running wild.
holy shit you telling shocks can cause that kind of wear on tires? well then guess i might have a answer to why my mud terrain tires a wearing like that but excessively
briansmobile1 Oh my bad, I always assumed shocks and struts were the same thing. I'll eagerly be waiting for that video, though I may have mine done by next week.
+Chris C Oh you're good man. I might sound curt in text, but it's just a brevity thing. I'm posting that video by the way on Sunday morning if you want to check it out. Should be good.
One trick I commonly use to prevent cross-threading a bolt is to spin it backwards against the nut until I feel the threads seat themselves. The threads will ride along each other until you reach the end/beginning and the bolt will seat/drop into place. Once I feel the bolt seat itself, I hand tighten in the proper direction to ensure that it's threading properly. Learned that trick when working on computers years ago and found I could apply it to any bolt/nut situation.
Also works with underground sprinklers, plastic threads really like to warp.
+Reboot153 Super rare for it to not work. Sometimes a little previous cross threading gives that trick a "false positive" that'd encourage you to cross thread again. Great tip!
Cupped tread wear can also be an indication of bent/worn/loose suspension components (ball joint, wheel bearing, shock absorber, springs, bushings, sway bar, upper strut mount, broken/damaged frame/welds, etc.), internal delaminating tire belts/plies, improper tire/wheel assembly balance, bent wheel/hub/spindle, worn/broken shock absorbers and in some less frequent cases alignment.
There are different types of cupping, some are symmetric, some are asymmetric, some are concentric, some appear scalloped and uneven.
Each different type is indicative of different causes.
Sometimes heel-toe tread wear is mistaken for cupping/scalloping.
Several tire manufacturers and some suspension component manufacturers have illustrated guides to help identify the causes of tread wear.
One last item, it is usually recommended to replace shock absorbers in axle pairs to maintain stability and control during braking and adverse conditions.
+patw52pb1 This is why front end problems are such a pain to "diagnose"(guess!)...
jrmym2
They certainly can be, but there are methods that use rater simple tools to inspect, test and measure to narrow down most problems and symptoms.
A pair of long pry bars, Channel-Locks, a hydraulic jack and a tape measure coupled up with a thorough visual and shake/push/pull inspection will usually reveal most problems.
There are specific measurements referenced to frame and body locations to quickly determine body/frame misalignment.
Google or the search engine of your choice can usually provide the needed measurements and visual cues to make a good diagnosis and facilitate a repair.
To stop cross threading I like to turn the bolt counter-clockwise first to feel that click of the first thread and then tighten by hand. Works real good on wood to stop recutting the wood and useful when you are trying to align a bolt you have to start blind.
Sometimes, spotting a bad shock or strut just takes experience. I recently ran into a pair that I knew were bad. The car just didn't seem to ride right. There was no fluid leaking, and the car didn't bounce its way down the highway. Even jouncing the car didn't show any signs of wear. But, upon removing the struts to replace them, I found the jounce was completely ruined (rod sunk on its own), but the rebound was nearly flawless. Weird!
Another great video, Brian! Thanks! :D
Hey Brian! I appreciate all of the information, if any Mazdas come in for repair work could you upload them, there are tons of info and even these struts are similar. But your explanation is so basic and it takes out the "difficultly" that way a tad for me. Cheers buddy take care!
Thank you for the video. Very informative.
It looks like fun working on cars that are up in the air.
+sixtyfiveford It's not as fun as shooting running lawn mowers in the snow, but it's nice.
Great!! Thanks. What about the front struts? I have a 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD (Common Rail Diesel) 4x4 that both the inside tires are worn bad on the inside. My daughter has the same vehicle and problem. I bet you are LOVIN' the new lift. Thanks for the videos.
+Teddy Carley That sounds like it needs an alignment if they are just worn on the inside. Negative camber causes wear on the inside of the tires (tires are leaning toward the center of the vehicle which raises the outside edges off the surface of the road).
+miyamoto`[gL] www.fiestastforum.com/gallery/data/503/tire-wear-problems-alignment-s.jpg
I am big fan of yours videos and work Brian, so please don't take it the wrong way.
Question 1. Do you ever use torque wrenches on suspensions. I know, you said before, and many thinks that if you were working years with torque wrench you have a feeling in your hand. Maybe you could do video and compare your 'hand feeling' with torque wrench? I just doubt you can be precise enough without it - Sorry my background is aero engines so I am a bit obsessed with torquing bolts to spec :)
Question 2. Why you haven't use antisieze past? Very rarely can see you using it? Is there any particular reason?
Question 3. Perhaps is not good idea to say all struts are so easy. If you have Mc Person, or you have to adjust your geometry afterwards, might a bit more complicated that this one?
Looking forward for answers, and good luck with another films.
thanks! your videos are excellent. very helpful. keep up the good work. maybe a video on vehicle inspection prior to a long trip video would be a good project?
You should always cycle the shocks a few times. When they are laying sideways the fluid doesn't stay where it needs to and cycling them gets air out.
I've got similar wear on my summer tires, not really sure what to look at.
I haven't noticed the oscillating ride problems like you mentioned, but do get some vibration on the road. When I switched to my winters the vibration went away. I'm not sure if it went away because the tires are cupped, or because of balance issues but I asked a local highschool shop to check the balance on them anyway to rule that out. Other than that different sources online say anything from inflation problems, to shocks, to balance, and others for the cause of cupping on tires. Not really sure where to look.
Hey Andy, anything that makes the tire oscillate will cause that wear patern. even a bent rim. on mine, the wear was happening on both sides the same & miles are high enough to suspect the factory shocks are bad. (138k miles)
I'm at about 130K miles so probably not a bad idea to look into I suppose. Thanks!
I once had a car, where the shocks would get frozen solid in the winter. Talk about a harsh ride!
Reminded me to do mine. Thanks:)
and bad shocks create annoying washboard bumps on the driveway
Cross threading is easy to avoid if you don't use air/power tools to reinstall fasteners. Been working on a variety of vehicles for 30+ years and have yet to cross thread a bolt or fastener.
+B Wolfe Don't jinx yourself
Thanks Brian. Now I'll never be able to lower a jack again without thinking "Jack Downiels."
No one has ever needed me to replace shocks, just struts...hmmm, this video confirms my thinking that they are the same! lol
Maybe in their style these are shocks and others are struts?
You gave Schrodingers Box a shout out? How giving, man! I'm enjoying his scream at your screen for sure! lol
1. Can this procedure be performed with the vehicle on the ground and rolling in the dirt?
2. This is the exact next thing I need to do for my 93 silverado war pig. When the rusted up bolts snap off should I get like a grade 8 bolt for strength, or a stainless steel one, or a 43 dollar oem one?
+Albion Laster Hi yes can be done on the ground, on the bolts im not sure which would be best.
when you replace your shocks. it lowers the braking distance too right? I seen that it does.
The shocks on my TJ where so bad that sometimes that I shifted, the whole car rocked like a rocking chair down the road. When I took them out, they didn't even moved when I compressed them.
when u was talking about tire wear, is the shock the only thing that causes high low tread wear.
Hey Brian, Hope you are doing well.
Are the Front Shocks easy too?
Brian, where did you get your lift? Is it possible to rent one for cheap? I have an 02 Exploder and will need to do all of the suspension soon for inspection and have a few other things I need to fix on it that a lift would make easier than a jack and stands.
they are not easy when the lower bolt fuses to the shock bushing so you have to cut it out and the replacement is dealer only.
Were the front shocks going out as well?
Brian!! I NEED YOUR HELP!!! I installed TWO brand new buyautoparts drive shafts on my 2011 forester and they both vibrate like crazy at 35mph, put the old one back on and it stops... what am i doing wrong? or are they just junk driveshafts? thanks man!
what did you say about that indentation on the shock...? ...does it matter?
+Dudeareno Rodent Mechanically? No. It's an aesthetic or for looks decision to put it on the inside.
Shocks arrrre easy, unless they are rusted like crazy. Had no choice but to cut my nuts and bolts on the top of my rears ('99 Dakota), replaced them with grade 8 bolts.
Now onto my '07 Subaru Outback, it has 80k miles and the driver's side is sagging front and rear. Measuring from the peak of the wheel well arch/fender flare to the center of the wheel, there is an inch difference side to side, 16" on driver's side and 17" on passenger's side. Now it doesn't bounce a long time after hitting bumps, but do I need new struts? The Detroit Lean is driving me crazy!
I hope you are still paying attention. I am doing the rear shocks on my 1992 Ford F150. I cut the restraining strap on my shock but the bottom of the shock slipped out of the bracket. I don't have a lift so is there any way I can jack the truck so that the shock lines up with the bottom bracket better?
briansmobile if ever you have any idea of the phenomena of sudden unintentionall acceleration SUA. It is happening to a particular model of MITSUBISHI MONTERO SOLD IN ÀMERICA AS A OUTLANDER . If you search the yutube you will see videos in the Philippines showing the vehicle running wild.
im doing rear pinion seals and bearing today on 98 chevy blazer is there any way you can tell me what im getting into? thanks
+Tyler Lynch I have a video on a Dana 60F. You're is WAY easier, but similar once you're into the diff part.
Great video.
What's with the Arabic license plate in the background at 5:35?
I replaced my shocks with Nitrogen Rough Country shocks what's the difference? it's on my 00 Tundra
but that tyre wear can also be camber wear on IRS set ups
Shocks are easy when they're not encaged in a spring :)
those are McPherson struts.
+Bethy Mercado you know your shit, gurl.
No grease on anything? Makes it harder for the next guy. Especially in the salt belt
You're right. In the salt belt using some antisieze lubricant would be in order.
Excellent! :)
👍👍
I am shocked.
+Carpe diem glxke Better than being damped i guess!
Great video. Struts are the pain in the buttox.
easy beans on that vehicle. but not all are so easy 😕
holy shit you telling shocks can cause that kind of wear on tires? well then guess i might have a answer to why my mud terrain tires a wearing like that but excessively
Struts are hard hahahaha. And more expensive.
+briansmobile1 whats up! i was wondering if i could ask you some questions for my research project! Thanks
+deadguppy888 Ask away man. Something like that you might just message me on the briansmobile1 Facebook page. facebook.com/briansmobile1/
No salt on your roads eh!
This is shockingly easy, eh?
I have a strong feeling it won't be this easy on my honda ;P
+Chris C Your Honda has struts. I've filmed doing the struts on this- very similar to Honda. I may post that soon.
briansmobile1 Oh my bad, I always assumed shocks and struts were the same thing.
I'll eagerly be waiting for that video, though I may have mine done by next week.
+Chris C Oh you're good man. I might sound curt in text, but it's just a brevity thing. I'm posting that video by the way on Sunday morning if you want to check it out. Should be good.
Lift, must get lift!!!!
Just bolt in a thick piece of angle iron so there's no shock that wears out.