This is one of the only teachers I had in highschool that could make me pay attention and enjoy class. 18 years later and I randomly find this page looking for camber settings for my truck. I have parts on that car!
I am a 62 yes old lady. Just out of college in 1982 I got hired at Sears Automotive Shop. I moved up to doing alignments I loved it. So I love to hear you talk and explain alignments. Thank you.
The absolute best explanation of alignment specs that I have ever come across!!! And I consider myself to have a black belt in TH-cam/Google searching ;) Thanks for your time and knowledge 🙏
Thank you I love the simple explanation and the the simple way to do a good job.There is no reason to take something that can be done simple and make it complicated .
Best self do it alighment video I've seen yet!! I'm 67 and I was the Hunter rep for several years in RI and SE Mass, I ran the alignment shop in a seven franchise high end dealership( Mercedes, Porsche/Audi, Honda...) then I owned a front-end shop for many more years. Because of my engineering background, I was known for the ability to make my own adjustment on cars that had none like BMW (elongate holes), I did the alignments for 75% of the body shops in NE Rhode Island and several PDs. This is a great video, but you forgot two things, checking for posible run-out and SAI, stearing axis inclination. You have steel rims, I'm sure you know how to illustrate checking for run-out. SAI determines the projection of the weight of the vehicle in reference to the center of the tire surface. This is more criticle with cars with wide tires to know. Caster is easier explained using the straight ahead stability of a "chopper". Now we have radial tires, camber doesn't mean as much for offsetting road crown, I always added about 1/2 degree more caster to the right. I autocrossed my "83 Saab turbo, I cut/welded to size the rear sway bar from a Crown Vic police rear end, she cornered better than a 944, lol. A body shop owner brought me his wife's BMW 3 series after she put it in the woods spinning out taking a corner in the rain. Come to find out her rear end was toing out (I had a Hunter A-111 that I had the specs set up on inches, not degrees) -3/4 inch! I elongated the holes on the left rear lower control arm bolt holes to get rid off the dog tracking as well. I always set rear toe at .03" toe in for stability. Put stress on the tires to check for centering after any adjustments. I set front toe to .09-.12" toe in. SAI will determine if a car with front wheel drive will toe out or toe in under power.
after few years sniffing TH-cam for wheel alignment tutorial never seen anyone better than this guy thank you for the information . anyone lives in a remote place this is very important and helpful.
This guy know how to teach while entertaining you. Very knowledgeable in many automotive subjects. Had a teacher like him in college, a mechanical engineering course . Kept me coming back. I sure miss having him around. Jeff Jefferies good ol' boy. Wonder if he's still alive? I'll just have to look him up.
I work for a Kenworth dealership and have performed many wheel alignments on heavy duty line haul trucks & enjoy the concepts of alignments too, there is no better feeling than receiving great feedback from customers of how great their vehicle handles & drives down the road. All I can say is WOW this is such a great video to watch for someone wanting to learning wheel alignments & it’s concepts. I even learned some new things watching this video. Thanks a lot for this great video, big thumbs up 👍 I definitely will be following a lot more videos on your channel!
"Wheel alignment in a nutshell". What a great nutshell! 23 minutes PACKED with the absolutely best explanation I ever listen for the three angles. Great job. Walking encyclopedia. Bless you. Be well.
As a long time Auto Tech teacher, I commend you on your excellent and humorous video. Clear explanations of complex concepts are hallmarks of a great teacher. Good job!
I hope your students appreciate you, they're very lucky to have such a knowledgeable, enthusiastic, hands-on teacher! Hopefully you get a couple of them off their phones.
This guy sit different between professor mechanic and everyday mechanic doing a you tube video explain. Excellent explained to the point with prop ten sardine can without shouting !
Hands down the best video I've seen on alignment that has both theory and how to make adjustments combined. I've been trying to wrap my brain around this for a while. A few years ago, I took my wife's suburban to a "reputable" tire/alignment company to get front end updated. They basically had a blank check to replace everything, and get it all installed/adjusted properly. Everything was fine for about 2 weeks, and all of the sudden the alignment went crazy. I looked into it, and found out that the passenger's side upper control arm rear adjustment bolt had been welded to the control arm to prevent movement. Since then, I've sworn to learn alignment. It's the only aspect of a vehicle that I haven't done myself. Your video puts me a lot closer to being there.
Sir you have the most dynamic instructing style I have ever witnessed. Your knowledge of the physics and application of tire alignment in a 3 dimensional platform in perspective to the other tires desired position is PhD caliber. Thank you for sharing your blessed gifts.
Wow. I love your video. I used to help a guy do alignments at trade school. They taught me "how" to do it but not the reasons or the relationship. I have worked as a mechanic since i was 13 yo. I am building an old (1927) truck now at 66 yo . Thanks for the explanation.
I have been messing around trying to align my 4wd Jeep Grand Cherokee 2004 for what seems like a never ending frustrating job. I'm going to try again today with confidence because I feel like I understand so much more! Thank you for teaching this noob in a clear, fun and professional, do it for dummies kind of way. THANK YOU
What sort of problem are you having. If it's a solid front axle like a Dana 30 or 44 camber should be 0 from the factory. Caster is probably about 4-5 degrees and your toe should be about .06 total that's a 1/16 of an inch. She should go right down the road. If it doesn't t check this Ball joints on that is tight will make that jeep wander constant steering wheel corrections. Toe rods loose or tight Do you have a steering stabilizer. Looks like shook absorber Do you have big or wide tires on it. Or a lift kit. Make sure your pitman arm is level with the tie rod it's connecting to. They make a drop pitman arm. Check your brake calipers. One dragging will cause funky driving . Sometimes it'll drag then it pops off and it steers perfectly. Then it hits that sticking point in the piston and drags again. Alignment is not hard but the components that make the vehicle go down the correctly can really play havoc on driving. Good luck.
I was a brake/frontend expert first half my life and one of the very first 4-wheel computerized alignment shops in my state. I gotta run, but found this interesting and pretty much like I LEARNED 50 years ago. Comments.. I adjusted nearly all rear wheel drive cars 1/2+ camber driver side and 0 passenger side; caster was usually 1 and 1.5 degrees.. keeps straight on sloped roads for rain in my state, plus the positive caster is what keeps the car going straight, think bicycle. I just wanted to comment so many cars these days have negative caster and is why they SUCK at handling. It can be like an overtight pickup steering gear, where there's no center & constantly going left or right.. get over 1+ caster and you can drive without hands on the freeway. Another thing this guy realizes is you can fine tune individual cars due to driving habits, etc... just run your hand across the tread going in & out and if you feel sharp edges?.. that's how you can "fine tune" toe-in. (you're WRONG using camber for road crown since you're increasing tire wear to do it... CASTER is the angle to compensate road crown, NOT camber!) Anyway, negative caster turns easily incity driving, but I personally don't like how they handle overall. (The old expert I learned from also raced circle track & those racers would bring their cars in after hours so we could play with what they were trying to solve). Nice to hear this talk, it's been near 35 years since I turned wrenches and kinda missing it lately. ;)
Excellent video. I have always dreaded having to take my car to an alignment shop. I've found once a shop breaks the seal on a factory setup, my cars have always worn tires prematurely. After having completed a rotisserie restoration on my 66 Mustang I decided I would try to learn to do it myself. I picked up a Longacre Caster/Camber gauge and toe plates. It took me a little bit to figure out what was going on but eventually I had it down pat. It's a great skill to have. I'm Subscribed.
I always thought that too but now I’m pretty sure once you get it all reset something is wearing again which makes you have to get alinement sooner than first time. I’ll bet you if you replaced ALL your suspension parts and do an alignment it would last just as long as first time.
My father taught me how to do a alignment 1984.. We didn't have all of this fancy equipment back then.. After your done, chalk the tread and drive.. Glad I listened that day... Everyone is convinced that you have to go to a shop and laser them today...
Im a retired licensed mechanic. My specialty throughout the years was steering and suspension. Like yourself, I did a lot of modified vehicles from 1/4 mile drag cars to off road trucks. I've hand built countless different suspension systems. My true love is off road, mainly rock crawlers. Any thing with massive amounts of articulation. Your explination of alignment angles was spot on. I couldn't of explained it any better myself.
Thank you for taking the time to present this subject in terms we all can understand! From the planning, to the filming and editing...I'm sure these videos eat up a bunch of time and effort, but I have found no other channel that so clearly relates subjects to the audience. Most of us have, at one time or another, questioned our chosen profession, but you sir were born to teach. It's not glamorous or lucrative (my wife is a teacher) but when you have the gift, there are few professions more important, or satisfying. Thank you for your dedication, and don't ever retire-those kids need you!
You are absolutely great at this teachings regarding wheel alignment, Your explanation helped me a lot to understand Caster which has been like rocket science to me. I like to do my own wheel alignment at home and I’m learning more because of videos like yours.
I’ve been out of high school for over 40 years now, but your video put me right back in it. Your exuberance and excellent visual explanations made this a lot of fun. Thanks for posting, looking forward to seeing more.
The castor camber gage you took out of the plastic case is what made it able for me to setup my dirtcar (9C1) to be able to win 73 feature wins.kk Very good explanation of front alignment. I used 4 degrees of camber and 3 degrees caster that transferred 90 lbs to the left rear when countersteering on dirt.. If you don't understand the front alignment you are not going to win 73 features.
@@GregWellwood You best person to ask, can I ask you something? Change tires to profile 40 mm or about 1.5" higher than recommended by manufacturer, to have more damping. Would you recommend to increase toe in front? I can adjust toe and camber on both front and rear.
A taller tire is going to change the Scrub Radius - the distance between an imaginary line through the steering axis, and a vertical centerline of the wheel, as viewed from the front. Depending on the geometry, if it shortens this distance (what I would expect it to do), you will have lighter steering and need less toe. How much less? Testing. I'd set it at spec and err on the tighter side of things.
@@GregWellwood Thanks. It was lightly positive, went to car to make it closer to zero toe, and now steering wheel turns even easier, you were right. I need to buy that caster/camber tool you have, looks very useful. Thanks for advice.
Thank you so very much for doing this video. I’ve watched don’t know how many and want through forums and some literature but all too technical, too lengthy and difficult to grasp everything. You made it simple, interesting, funny and super easy to understand and remember. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge and experience
People can talk trash about a tape measure alignment all they want, but I have fixed messes from when my wife would drop her car off at the local alignment shop, they'd not even free everything, mess it up further (with the steering wheel off center, driving her nuts). Some time on my back with a light, some wrenches, a torch, a tape, and some greased sheet metal plates, and it was good for years, just measuring tread to opposite tread - i.e., no fancy angle plates - which I think I should take a minute and fab up. Thanks for that!
I’m changing out the front steering and suspension components on my truck, your video explanation of steering geometry is second to none in terms of making it fun AND interesting. Thank you ! Edit: subscribed
wow, im so glad i clicke onto someone that knows camber ! i built a drag beetle back in the day, i lowered the suspension to about an inch off the road, the camber of the wheels was about 3 inch negative, but it handled fantastic ! On the road it was like a nuclear go cart on wheels ! At the lights it wheelied in first and second gears ;) A lot of fun to drive !
Hey shop guy, I came across your channel, I learned auto mechanic's in '95. The wheel alignment was the most difficult part for me to grasp mentally(I just couldn't figure it out!) In watching your video explanation and the great visuals to go with it!, I now don't feel comfortable with touching ANY part of auto repair. I've taken the ASE exams every 6 months-studied for those tests, and, failed by 1 answer and never attained my ASE certification. After 10 years of beating my head against the wall trying to achieve my goal of ASE certified mechanic(with a 98+%ile in mechanical reasoning). I had to walk away from my life-long dream of having my own shop. I've not even gotten to work as an automotive technician. After 27 years of my heart getting broke, your video has told me why I failed, thank-you for the video presentation and helping me to "get" why I bombed. Doug😵
Wow what a teacher as myself a woodwork Metalwork electronics physics and chemistry teacher I have learnt a great deal about wheel alignment the concepts you showed are basic and very useful two steering geometry thank you for your knowledge
Old school VW/Porsche factory trained tech, race car/aerospace fabricator, crew chief for several winning SCCA club level GT/Production class cars so I understand and appreciate your in depth explanation shown here. Especially enjoyed explanation of importance of caster, how it will 'rise and fall' when rotated/turning. Would have been interesting to show the weight transfer from front to rear corners of the car. Example: Hard left turn angle, the caster cause the left front to rise. Conversely the right rear lowers, with a cross weight transfer. Try this with a race kart chassis, it's obviously apparent. The left front will rise approx. 1 inch, the right rear will drop approx. 3/4 an inch. fun to play with and a very graphic example for students. The toe plates are a quick n' ez way to measure toe, but surprised you didn't mention the old 'string' method. A PITA to set up but very accurate. More than once I've returned from a tire shop install of new tires with alignment and car drove funny and steering wheel off center. With the string setup find the front toe way outta' whack. Set it back to about 1/16th toe, car drives fine...again.
Thank you very much. You're really a great teacher. One of a kind. I'm average Joe out there and had seen several other TH-cam videos, trying to explain the whole thing without much luck. You did it. You made it very easy to understand and also make it fun to listen and follow you. Again I really appreciate your thoughtful presentation.
Thank you for putting in the time and effort to produce this video. Using real life experience you boil down some very complicated math into bite size chunks with understandable analogies and usable applications.
Thank you for making this video, hands down the best explanation of wheel alignment, it’s so much easier to understand something when a reason is given, with an example. You do this really, really well 👍🏻
great explanation. I have build a couple of early 30 hotrods and did the alignment myself with a simular bubbletool from Speedway and a toe-tool copied from a Model A one. Last project was a 49 Pontiac Streamliner with LS1, Jag Front and 4 link 8.8 Ford rear. Alignment was spot on, but the car was a bit nervous over 65 miles. I put some frontrims on that looked cool,but I forgot to check the srubradius, after putting the right rims on, man what a difference!
Hey I’m very impressed by ur explanation abt wheel alignment I’m an alignment technician here in 🇯🇲Jamaica and I’d love to get more information on alignment especially on race cars, I’m actually a self taught technician I just found out a lot on my own after years of work never did any schooling on this profession just loved it so I know a lot of wat u’ve said is spot on some I couldn’t have explained like u did but I just knew....I’d love to get to know more frm u if ur interested in teaching 😁 I’ve subscribed so keep the videos coming on alignment ok...I’ll be checking to hear back frm u I’m hungry to learn more thnx💯💯💯
Love this video! I've got an old saab 900. It pulls to the left and I always just assumed it needed an alignment. I went and checked the toe alignment of the front and it was perfect, read exactly as saab specifies which is actually a little bit of toe in. That worried me, so I took both wheels off and can now visibly see a difference in castor. I think someone must have hit something like in your nissan. These cars have adjustable castor because the top control arm which is an A frame, is set up with shims underneath the bolts. You can remove these shims or add them for caster and camber. So I need to replace the control arm because its way out. But it turns out you gotta pull the engine to remove it. Crazy design. Im gonna try and mess with the shims to get something close to straight. Not the best option but at least i know now what im messing with now that I've seen this crash course haha
To increase caster, you could take one shim out of the back and put it in the front. Since the total number of shims didn't change, the camber might not change much. If you just pull a shim (or insert a shim), you will likely change camber as well. It is not good practice to run more than five shims in one spot (they are more likely to be spit out).
Back in the day when i first started working for Walmart, we had one of those 3 bubble caster levels. It worked great for years! Then they quit doing alignments. We also had a laser liner to check the toe. No computers here. If you were competent enough, you could do a fantastic job. It did take a little effort and mental strategy. But no hill for a stepper.
Great video. This is a must to know if you are spending thousands to go fast. I have built so many race cars and drag cars the biggest overlooked part of most builds. The tire tracking. Caster camber and Toe are the keys to winning. Thanks for bringing this point up. My 2020 HELLCUDA will handle like a Ferrari when I’m ready to align. Thanks Teach. 👍
Holy smokes, this is the closest I've ever come to actually understanding all these alignment concepts. No wonder you were under such demand for doing alignments. Thanks so much.
Excellent explanation. I just changed a whole bunch of front parts on my truck. It is scheduled for a CanTire laser alignment tomorrow. On trucks I have used string back to front to set track and toe. I have not yet fingered out simple home garage method to measure caster and camber to be able to adjust those myself.
I'm 65 yrs old and fix everything from electronics to mechanics but have never really understood what caster meant...thank you for teaching an old dog a new trick even if it's now just for curiosities sake
I think I finally understand now after watching your video why my Kenworth T800 Dump truck pulls to the right. Its left front wheel is leaned out at the top 6 degrees while the right front is strait up. With the little bit of castor that it has the left wheel don't relax going down the road until its pointed right a degree or two which I have to fight against all day long. Even with the wheels aligned strait using a similar method to yours I use to 4 ft levels to get a very accurate alignment measurement. The problem is the camber is built into the axle and from what I hear you have to have the axle bent to adjust the camber. Very few people will do that these days though and some axles have stamped in them do not bend. This truck has actually been turned over on its left side and I'll never know if that's what caused the camber to be like that or not but it hasn't always pulled hard right like it does now.
This was so incredibly informative! I lifted my truck about 2 inches with an aftermarket strut and was trying to figure out how to get it back to stock alignment. Turns out, that ain't happening! I used the law of cosines on the side measures of the triangle formed with the frame, control arms and strut and figured out the amount of caster I would need would put the adjuster off the frame of the truck. I can move at least half of the way there by kicking it out to max, but aftermarket control arms would be required to kick it out any further. At least now I know what my next investment should be.
After seeing the 1965 C10, I almost wished the alignment specs were discussed here as well. Using the Go-Fast car is practical as the steering is outside and easy to follow. I have a 67 C10 which uses upper shims. W/Disc & P/S, I would ask an alignment shop to use 72 specs for caster as this will help return-ability after turns. These trucks are hot and parts of every kind are made, but shop will not like them as you said. The lower control arm shaft is located by pin/hole system. Re-drilling the hole will allow for more caster (As you noted 3/4”) but this allows room for the rack & modifications needed to fit. I don’t if I could move mine that much (Perhaps less) to keep the tie rods straight reducing “Bump Steer” as it is not lowered! I like the OEM stance & height & wheel house room, but running sensible tires, only 16” w/6 lug. Comments? Hope so. I did enjoy the video even though machines take the task at hand (Alignment) out of the techs hand. Then, after learn that machine, they change it. Dam the engineers making new stuff. LoL. ASE Master Tech since 1978, Retired. Thanks!
Excellent presentation of steering dynamics and how the adjustments affect steering. I'll be passing this link on to others so they can learn from you.👍
Very interesting while being informative. I was glad to hear you connect the dots about caster and how it affects the effective camber when steering into a corner. Many moons ago I found my '80 Civic had fairly radical toe-in on the rear, but more on one side than the other. No wonder it dog-tracked and it's turning radius was dismal. I went about equalizing both of the tracking rods and measuring them. Then I lengthened them both a little to remove the toe. Drove so much better. When I spoke with an alignment tech about changing my toe with those links, He said, "Those adjustable links on the back of that model are purely for setting your tracking. You cannot adjust toe with them". Ha, ha, well... Whatever...;) While watching you work your magic, I was wondering what slick pad you used under the tires to allow them to pivot on your garage floor without the natural resistance to the changes in geometry that would give you a false reading on your measurements when turning right/left while parked? When working on my own car, I noticed that when I rolled it forward a bit the camber changed, then when I rolled it backward it changed again. I realized that due to it's toe and grip on the ground the camber would change as a result of opposing force from the surface trying to pinch the contact patches or pull them apart, depending on what toe was set or which way the tires were rolling. I did not have that 2-way lazy susan type wheel pad that allows them to not be influenced by the parking/test surface grip while turning them right/left and/or rolling. Since most of my driving is forward, to set it up for that, so I rolled it a few feet, set the toe, rolled it back twice as far and then rolled it back up to the forward mark. Same measurement. Good enough for me.
When I care enough, I have a pair of 24x24" vinyl floor tiles stacked under each front wheel with either salt (easy to clean up), or grease (messy) between them to let the front "settle" and reduce rotating friction.
Toe out on the front. Zero today's alignment. They had toe out for torque steer problems. Today everything is pretty close to zero with a little toe in. Especially on the rear wheels.😊
Thank you, I am almost finished lowering my BRZ for lower center of gravity (yes I fixed the roll center) and this helped me understand how the wheel geometry all works together. I will be doing a string alignment and all this info will help me dial in everything. I installed all new poly bushings, some solid bushings and spherical bearings in my suspension. Sadly, I will have to use the drop string method and some trig to get the camber I want. Lot's of great info...
I've measured camber that way before - I set up a spreadsheet on a laptop so I just have to enter the distance to the string at the top and it tells me what the camber is. Takes too long though (grin).
@@GregWellwood to find caster, using a digital angle finder or a smart phone level, what is the math? Rotate your tire 20 ° in then check the camber angle, then 20° out, then check the camber angle. You subtract the lower number from the higher number, then multiply it by 1.43 or 1.5?
This is one of the only teachers I had in highschool that could make me pay attention and enjoy class. 18 years later and I randomly find this page looking for camber settings for my truck. I have parts on that car!
I am a 62 yes old lady. Just out of college in 1982 I got hired at Sears Automotive Shop. I moved up to doing alignments I loved it. So I love to hear you talk and explain alignments. Thank you.
What Sears did you work at? I was a Hunter rep and serviced many Sears locations.
The absolute best explanation of alignment specs that I have ever come across!!! And I consider myself to have a black belt in TH-cam/Google searching ;) Thanks for your time and knowledge 🙏
Thank you kindly.
Tŷ
Thank you I love the simple explanation and the the simple way to do a good job.There is no reason to take something that can be done simple and make it complicated .
I totally agree.
If you have a black belt,then I should take this guys advice
Moved to Australia 17 years ago from BC. Seeing this video makes me want to move back and get an alignment done... This is how to teach.
Your students must love your class. Your an amazing teacher. Best "how to" car video I've ever watched!
I agree. Nice, Professor
@@onerbfromtn4320he can't be a professor. He isn't wearing a lab coat. Thems the rules
Best self do it alighment video I've seen yet!! I'm 67 and I was the Hunter rep for several years in RI and SE Mass, I ran the alignment shop in a seven franchise high end dealership( Mercedes, Porsche/Audi, Honda...) then I owned a front-end shop for many more years. Because of my engineering background, I was known for the ability to make my own adjustment on cars that had none like BMW (elongate holes), I did the alignments for 75% of the body shops in NE Rhode Island and several PDs. This is a great video, but you forgot two things, checking for posible run-out and SAI, stearing axis inclination. You have steel rims, I'm sure you know how to illustrate checking for run-out. SAI determines the projection of the weight of the vehicle in reference to the center of the tire surface. This is more criticle with cars with wide tires to know. Caster is easier explained using the straight ahead stability of a "chopper". Now we have radial tires, camber doesn't mean as much for offsetting road crown, I always added about 1/2 degree more caster to the right. I autocrossed my "83 Saab turbo, I cut/welded to size the rear sway bar from a Crown Vic police rear end, she cornered better than a 944, lol. A body shop owner brought me his wife's BMW 3 series after she put it in the woods spinning out taking a corner in the rain. Come to find out her rear end was toing out (I had a Hunter A-111 that I had the specs set up on inches, not degrees) -3/4 inch! I elongated the holes on the left rear lower control arm bolt holes to get rid off the dog tracking as well. I always set rear toe at .03" toe in for stability. Put stress on the tires to check for centering after any adjustments. I set front toe to .09-.12" toe in. SAI will determine if a car with front wheel drive will toe out or toe in under power.
after few years sniffing TH-cam for wheel alignment tutorial never seen anyone better than this guy
thank you for the information .
anyone lives in a remote place this is very important and helpful.
This guy know how to teach while entertaining you. Very knowledgeable in many automotive subjects. Had a teacher like him in college, a mechanical engineering course . Kept me coming back. I sure miss having him around.
Jeff Jefferies good ol' boy. Wonder if he's still alive? I'll just have to look him up.
This video is well worth the time to watch. I'm saving it and will probably watch it again.
I work for a Kenworth dealership and have performed many wheel alignments on heavy duty line haul trucks & enjoy the concepts of alignments too, there is no better feeling than receiving great feedback from customers of how great their vehicle handles & drives down the road. All I can say is WOW this is such a great video to watch for someone wanting to learning wheel alignments & it’s concepts. I even learned some new things watching this video. Thanks a lot for this great video, big thumbs up 👍 I definitely will be following a lot more videos on your channel!
"Wheel alignment in a nutshell". What a great nutshell! 23 minutes PACKED with the absolutely best explanation I ever listen for the three angles. Great job. Walking encyclopedia. Bless you. Be well.
Glad it was helpful!
As a long time Auto Tech teacher, I commend you on your excellent and humorous video. Clear explanations of complex concepts are hallmarks of a great teacher. Good job!
Shop teachers always have been the best teachers.
I hope your students appreciate you, they're very lucky to have such a knowledgeable, enthusiastic, hands-on teacher! Hopefully you get a couple of them off their phones.
This guy sit different between professor mechanic and everyday mechanic doing a you tube video explain.
Excellent explained to the point with prop ten sardine can without shouting !
Hands down the best video I've seen on alignment that has both theory and how to make adjustments combined. I've been trying to wrap my brain around this for a while. A few years ago, I took my wife's suburban to a "reputable" tire/alignment company to get front end updated. They basically had a blank check to replace everything, and get it all installed/adjusted properly. Everything was fine for about 2 weeks, and all of the sudden the alignment went crazy. I looked into it, and found out that the passenger's side upper control arm rear adjustment bolt had been welded to the control arm to prevent movement. Since then, I've sworn to learn alignment. It's the only aspect of a vehicle that I haven't done myself. Your video puts me a lot closer to being there.
Love the empty tuna tin on a piece of welding rod, best teaching aid ever! Thanks...
Sir you have the most dynamic instructing style I have ever witnessed. Your knowledge of the physics and application of tire alignment in a 3 dimensional platform in perspective to the other tires desired position is PhD caliber. Thank you for
sharing your blessed gifts.
Been around cars and shops my whole life. How you explain things makes all the difference. Great work!
Pure rocket science! But I finally started to demystify it and grasp it.
The best video on wheel alignment I've seen so far.
Wow. I love your video. I used to help a guy do alignments at trade school. They taught me "how" to do it but not the reasons or the relationship. I have worked as a mechanic since i was 13 yo. I am building an old (1927) truck now at 66 yo . Thanks for the explanation.
Made me want to go back to high school to take your shop class. Great presentation and insights, thank you!
There's nothing like knowledge shared by an experienced enthusiast. Thank you.
I have been messing around trying to align my 4wd Jeep Grand Cherokee 2004 for what seems like a never ending frustrating job. I'm going to try again today with confidence because I feel like I understand so much more! Thank you for teaching this noob in a clear, fun and professional, do it for dummies kind of way. THANK YOU
What sort of problem are you having.
If it's a solid front axle like a Dana 30 or 44 camber should be 0 from the factory. Caster is probably about 4-5 degrees and your toe should be about .06 total that's a 1/16 of an inch. She should go right down the road.
If it doesn't t check this
Ball joints on that is tight will make that jeep wander constant steering wheel corrections.
Toe rods loose or tight
Do you have a steering stabilizer. Looks like shook absorber
Do you have big or wide tires on it. Or a lift kit. Make sure your pitman arm is level with the tie rod it's connecting to.
They make a drop pitman arm.
Check your brake calipers. One dragging will cause funky driving . Sometimes it'll drag then it pops off and it steers perfectly. Then it hits that sticking point in the piston and drags again.
Alignment is not hard but the components that make the vehicle go down the correctly can really play havoc on driving. Good luck.
I was a brake/frontend expert first half my life and one of the very first 4-wheel computerized alignment shops in my state. I gotta run, but found this interesting and pretty much like I LEARNED 50 years ago. Comments.. I adjusted nearly all rear wheel drive cars 1/2+ camber driver side and 0 passenger side; caster was usually 1 and 1.5 degrees.. keeps straight on sloped roads for rain in my state, plus the positive caster is what keeps the car going straight, think bicycle. I just wanted to comment so many cars these days have negative caster and is why they SUCK at handling. It can be like an overtight pickup steering gear, where there's no center & constantly going left or right.. get over 1+ caster and you can drive without hands on the freeway. Another thing this guy realizes is you can fine tune individual cars due to driving habits, etc... just run your hand across the tread going in & out and if you feel sharp edges?.. that's how you can "fine tune" toe-in. (you're WRONG using camber for road crown since you're increasing tire wear to do it... CASTER is the angle to compensate road crown, NOT camber!) Anyway, negative caster turns easily incity driving, but I personally don't like how they handle overall. (The old expert I learned from also raced circle track & those racers would bring their cars in after hours so we could play with what they were trying to solve). Nice to hear this talk, it's been near 35 years since I turned wrenches and kinda missing it lately. ;)
This man has more "clue" than most! WoW, what a teacher.
That was fantastic. Everybody needs a shop teacher like this guy. Well done.
Excellent video. I have always dreaded having to take my car to an alignment shop. I've found once a shop breaks the seal on a factory setup, my cars have always worn tires prematurely. After having completed a rotisserie restoration on my 66 Mustang I decided I would try to learn to do it myself. I picked up a Longacre Caster/Camber gauge and toe plates. It took me a little bit to figure out what was going on but eventually I had it down pat. It's a great skill to have. I'm Subscribed.
I always thought that too but now I’m pretty sure once you get it all reset something is wearing again which makes you have to get alinement sooner than first time. I’ll bet you if you replaced ALL your suspension parts and do an alignment it would last just as long as first time.
My father taught me how to do a alignment 1984.. We didn't have all of this fancy equipment back then.. After your done, chalk the tread and drive.. Glad I listened that day... Everyone is convinced that you have to go to a shop and laser them today...
Im a retired licensed mechanic. My specialty throughout the years was steering and suspension. Like yourself, I did a lot of modified vehicles from 1/4 mile drag cars to off road trucks. I've hand built countless different suspension systems. My true love is off road, mainly rock crawlers. Any thing with massive amounts of articulation. Your explination of alignment angles was spot on. I couldn't of explained it any better myself.
Thank you for taking the time to present this subject in terms we all can understand! From the planning, to the filming and editing...I'm sure these videos eat up a bunch of time and effort, but I have found no other channel that so clearly relates subjects to the audience. Most of us have, at one time or another, questioned our chosen profession, but you sir were born to teach. It's not glamorous or lucrative (my wife is a teacher) but when you have the gift, there are few professions more important, or satisfying. Thank you for your dedication, and don't ever retire-those kids need you!
You are absolutely great at this teachings regarding wheel alignment, Your explanation helped me a lot to understand Caster which has been like rocket science to me. I like to do my own wheel alignment at home and I’m learning more because of videos like yours.
Glad it was helpful!
The best video on caster, camber and toe I've seen yet. And I've watched a lot of them.
The most specific and intelligent explanation regarding toe, caster and camber. Now need to check all my cars wheel alignments.
I’ve been out of high school for over 40 years now, but your video put me right back in it. Your exuberance and excellent visual explanations made this a lot of fun. Thanks for posting, looking forward to seeing more.
Done the old school way and still works today 👍 thanks for sharing
The castor camber gage you took out of the plastic case is what made it able for me to setup my dirtcar (9C1) to be able to win 73 feature wins.kk Very good explanation of front alignment. I used 4 degrees of camber and 3 degrees caster that transferred 90 lbs to the left rear when countersteering on dirt.. If you don't understand the front alignment you are not going to win 73 features.
Best explained ever, this is pure understanding of any topic - being able to explain hard to understand topic in words understandable by anyone.
Thanks! This is the part of teaching that I love.
@@GregWellwood You best person to ask, can I ask you something? Change tires to profile 40 mm or about 1.5" higher than recommended by manufacturer, to have more damping. Would you recommend to increase toe in front? I can adjust toe and camber on both front and rear.
A taller tire is going to change the Scrub Radius - the distance between an imaginary line through the steering axis, and a vertical centerline of the wheel, as viewed from the front. Depending on the geometry, if it shortens this distance (what I would expect it to do), you will have lighter steering and need less toe. How much less? Testing. I'd set it at spec and err on the tighter side of things.
@@GregWellwood Thanks. It was lightly positive, went to car to make it closer to zero toe, and now steering wheel turns even easier, you were right. I need to buy that caster/camber tool you have, looks very useful. Thanks for advice.
Thank you so very much for doing this video. I’ve watched don’t know how many and want through forums and some literature but all too technical, too lengthy and difficult to grasp everything. You made it simple, interesting, funny and super easy to understand and remember. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge and experience
Amazing teacher !!! You held my attention the whole time . I learned a lot . THANK YOU SIR .
People can talk trash about a tape measure alignment all they want, but I have fixed messes from when my wife would drop her car off at the local alignment shop, they'd not even free everything, mess it up further (with the steering wheel off center, driving her nuts). Some time on my back with a light, some wrenches, a torch, a tape, and some greased sheet metal plates, and it was good for years, just measuring tread to opposite tread - i.e., no fancy angle plates - which I think I should take a minute and fab up. Thanks for that!
I wish my shop teacher had enthusiasm like him
What you said all makes sense now and I have been around cars since 1970. Thank you for explaining they way you did. It was very interesting.
I’m changing out the front steering and suspension components on my truck, your video explanation of steering geometry is second to none in terms of making it fun AND interesting. Thank you !
Edit: subscribed
I would have to give this video a 100 out of 10 ratings as 10 out of 10 wouldn't give it justice, it's that good
This is one, if not the most enjoyable learning video I saw about alignment. Good job sir!
I could not ever understand how caster was measured, but you made it crystal clear, thanks!!
By far the best teaching I have come across on TH-cam. First class
wow, im so glad i clicke onto someone that knows camber !
i built a drag beetle back in the day, i lowered the suspension to about an inch off the road, the camber of the wheels was about 3 inch negative, but it handled fantastic !
On the road it was like a nuclear go cart on wheels !
At the lights it wheelied in first and second gears ;)
A lot of fun to drive !
Great information!! Even if someone would never mess with alignment, knowing that could save money at the garage. Good stuff!!
If you have replaced many of the suspension components on a restoration this is great to know to get in the ball park until you can get to a shop.
Very nice job!!! I would have enjoyed your classes. Just the right amount of practical purpose discussion, technical, and application.
Best scientific description and what the different adjustments do to the tires handling.
Hey shop guy, I came across your channel, I learned auto mechanic's in '95. The wheel alignment was the most difficult part for me to grasp mentally(I just couldn't figure it out!) In watching your video explanation and the great visuals to go with it!, I now don't feel comfortable with touching ANY part of auto repair. I've taken the ASE exams every 6 months-studied for those tests, and, failed by 1 answer and never attained my ASE certification. After 10 years of beating my head against the wall trying to achieve my goal of ASE certified mechanic(with a 98+%ile in mechanical reasoning). I had to walk away from my life-long dream of having my own shop. I've not even gotten to work as an automotive technician. After 27 years of my heart getting broke, your video has told me why I failed, thank-you for the video presentation and helping me to "get" why I bombed. Doug😵
My weakest area has always been HVAC. I wrote all eight ASE exams back in '96. Maybe we sat beside each other?!
You sound like a fun and great teacher that’s easily understood.
This is the best kind of shop teacher
Wow what a teacher as myself a woodwork Metalwork electronics physics and chemistry teacher I have learnt a great deal about wheel alignment the concepts you showed are basic and very useful two steering geometry thank you for your knowledge
Amazing video! I appreciate all the knowledge you're imparting. It's done with grace, humor, and style. Thank you for sharing, please keep going!
Old school VW/Porsche factory trained tech, race car/aerospace fabricator, crew chief for several winning SCCA club level GT/Production class cars so I understand and appreciate your in depth explanation shown here.
Especially enjoyed explanation of importance of caster, how it will 'rise and fall' when rotated/turning. Would have been interesting to show the weight transfer from front to rear corners of the car. Example: Hard left turn angle, the caster cause the left front to rise. Conversely the right rear lowers, with a cross weight transfer.
Try this with a race kart chassis, it's obviously apparent. The left front will rise approx. 1 inch, the right rear will drop approx. 3/4 an inch. fun to play with and a very graphic example for students.
The toe plates are a quick n' ez way to measure toe, but surprised you didn't mention the old 'string' method. A PITA to set up but very accurate. More than once I've returned from a tire shop install of new tires with alignment and car drove funny and steering wheel off center. With the string setup find the front toe way outta' whack. Set it back to about 1/16th toe, car drives fine...again.
That was THE best explanation, I have ever seen. 👍👍👍
instaBlaster.
Thank you very much. You're really a great teacher. One of a kind. I'm average Joe out there and had seen several other TH-cam videos, trying to explain the whole thing without much luck. You did it. You made it very easy to understand and also make it fun to listen and follow you. Again I really appreciate your thoughtful presentation.
Thank you for putting in the time and effort to produce this video. Using real life experience you boil down some very complicated math into bite size chunks with understandable analogies and usable applications.
Thank you for making this video, hands down the best explanation of wheel alignment, it’s so much easier to understand something when a reason is given, with an example. You do this really, really well 👍🏻
great explanation. I have build a couple of early 30 hotrods and did the alignment myself with a simular bubbletool from Speedway and a toe-tool copied from a Model A one. Last project was a 49 Pontiac Streamliner with LS1, Jag Front and 4 link 8.8 Ford rear. Alignment was spot on, but the car was a bit nervous over 65 miles. I put some frontrims on that looked cool,but I forgot to check the srubradius, after putting the right rims on, man what a difference!
Hey I’m very impressed by ur explanation abt wheel alignment I’m an alignment technician here in 🇯🇲Jamaica and I’d love to get more information on alignment especially on race cars, I’m actually a self taught technician I just found out a lot on my own after years of work never did any schooling on this profession just loved it so I know a lot of wat u’ve said is spot on some I couldn’t have explained like u did but I just knew....I’d love to get to know more frm u if ur interested in teaching 😁 I’ve subscribed so keep the videos coming on alignment ok...I’ll be checking to hear back frm u I’m hungry to learn more thnx💯💯💯
Best video I’ve found to date about alignment.
Thanks!
Wow, most fantastic explanation I've ever heard. You nailed it.
Thanks!
By far and away the best vid on the subject that I have found. Thank you.
Love this video! I've got an old saab 900. It pulls to the left and I always just assumed it needed an alignment. I went and checked the toe alignment of the front and it was perfect, read exactly as saab specifies which is actually a little bit of toe in. That worried me, so I took both wheels off and can now visibly see a difference in castor. I think someone must have hit something like in your nissan. These cars have adjustable castor because the top control arm which is an A frame, is set up with shims underneath the bolts. You can remove these shims or add them for caster and camber. So I need to replace the control arm because its way out. But it turns out you gotta pull the engine to remove it. Crazy design. Im gonna try and mess with the shims to get something close to straight. Not the best option but at least i know now what im messing with now that I've seen this crash course haha
To increase caster, you could take one shim out of the back and put it in the front. Since the total number of shims didn't change, the camber might not change much. If you just pull a shim (or insert a shim), you will likely change camber as well. It is not good practice to run more than five shims in one spot (they are more likely to be spit out).
Excellent video, I have to watch it many times since I new to the wheel alignment, but excellent explanation
Best video on explaining vehicle alignment yet!
Been doing manual alignment for my car like 5 years now, thanks for the tips n tricks
Back in the day when i first started working for Walmart, we had one of those 3 bubble caster levels. It worked great for years! Then they quit doing alignments. We also had a laser liner to check the toe. No computers here. If you were competent enough, you could do a fantastic job. It did take a little effort and mental strategy. But no hill for a stepper.
I watch this nearly once a day. Very helpful.
I did all this in my head. Built a 64 nova 8 years still had no tread loss. I ripped it all over. 11.70 at the strip. Never be able to do it again.
Best alignment intro video I've seen.
Great video. This is a must to know if you are spending thousands to go fast. I have built so many race cars and drag cars the biggest overlooked part of most builds. The tire tracking. Caster camber and Toe are the keys to winning. Thanks for bringing this point up. My 2020 HELLCUDA will handle like a Ferrari when I’m ready to align. Thanks Teach. 👍
Outstanding presentation, concise and easy to understand for those already familiar with such things. Thanks for sharing
Holy smokes, this is the closest I've ever come to actually understanding all these alignment concepts. No wonder you were under such demand for doing alignments. Thanks so much.
I missed going ti school for automotive. You gave me a refresher and did it in a way my favorite teachers did so. Thank you so much. 💜
The camber explanation for turning was amazing
That was superbly concise educationally as well as engaging , keep it up!
This Guy Definitely knows how to Teach we would have been Lucky to be students of his in this Subject and probably in any Subject’s
Excellent explanation. I just changed a whole bunch of front parts on my truck. It is scheduled for a CanTire laser alignment tomorrow.
On trucks I have used string back to front to set track and toe. I have not yet fingered out simple home garage method to measure caster and camber to be able to adjust those myself.
Simple and precise you are a Master! Thanks for your full lecture video.
I'm 65 yrs old and fix everything from electronics to mechanics but have never really understood what caster meant...thank you for teaching an old dog a new trick even if it's now just for curiosities sake
I think I finally understand now after watching your video why my Kenworth T800 Dump truck pulls to the right. Its left front wheel is leaned out at the top 6 degrees while the right front is strait up.
With the little bit of castor that it has the left wheel don't relax going down the road until its pointed right a degree or two which I have to fight against all day long.
Even with the wheels aligned strait using a similar method to yours I use to 4 ft levels to get a very accurate alignment measurement.
The problem is the camber is built into the axle and from what I hear you have to have the axle bent to adjust the camber.
Very few people will do that these days though and some axles have stamped in them do not bend.
This truck has actually been turned over on its left side and I'll never know if that's what caused the camber to be like that or not but it hasn't always pulled hard right like it does now.
I’m glad this video popped up on my feed. We’ll have to go back and watch it. Will be changing My tire rod ends soon.
This was so incredibly informative!
I lifted my truck about 2 inches with an aftermarket strut and was trying to figure out how to get it back to stock alignment.
Turns out, that ain't happening!
I used the law of cosines on the side measures of the triangle formed with the frame, control arms and strut and figured out the amount of caster I would need would put the adjuster off the frame of the truck.
I can move at least half of the way there by kicking it out to max, but aftermarket control arms would be required to kick it out any further.
At least now I know what my next investment should be.
After seeing the 1965 C10, I almost wished the alignment specs were discussed here as well. Using the Go-Fast car is practical as the steering is outside and easy to follow. I have a 67 C10 which uses upper shims. W/Disc & P/S, I would ask an alignment shop to use 72 specs for caster as this will help return-ability after turns. These trucks are hot and parts of every kind are made, but shop will not like them as you said. The lower control arm shaft is located by pin/hole system. Re-drilling the hole will allow for more caster (As you noted 3/4”) but this allows room for the rack & modifications needed to fit. I don’t if I could move mine that much (Perhaps less) to keep the tie rods straight reducing “Bump Steer” as it is not lowered! I like the OEM stance & height & wheel house room, but running sensible tires, only 16” w/6 lug. Comments? Hope so. I did enjoy the video even though machines take the task at hand (Alignment) out of the techs hand. Then, after learn that machine, they change it. Dam the engineers making new stuff. LoL. ASE Master Tech since 1978, Retired. Thanks!
Excellent! I already knew what toe, caster, and camber were...but your explanation was brilliant. That demo you used for caster was perfect.
Best shop teacher quote ever. ' Some call it twitchy, I call it responsive " lol
Excellent presentation of steering dynamics and how the adjustments affect steering. I'll be passing this link on to others so they can learn from you.👍
I was trained to base my wheel alignment on thrust , and begin from there,15 years , wheel alignment technician,, was always honest with customer
Good man. That's where the alignment starts. Especially on front wheel drive cars. That's what I taught all my guys when put a new aligner in
Wow! That’s the best explanation I’ve ever heard, and humor too. Thanks a bunch😜
Perfect combination of explanation and humor. Loved it. Keep it up!!
Very interesting while being informative. I was glad to hear you connect the dots about caster and how it affects the effective camber when steering into a corner.
Many moons ago I found my '80 Civic had fairly radical toe-in on the rear, but more on one side than the other. No wonder it dog-tracked and it's turning radius was dismal. I went about equalizing both of the tracking rods and measuring them. Then I lengthened them both a little to remove the toe. Drove so much better. When I spoke with an alignment tech about changing my toe with those links, He said, "Those adjustable links on the back of that model are purely for setting your tracking. You cannot adjust toe with them". Ha, ha, well... Whatever...;)
While watching you work your magic, I was wondering what slick pad you used under the tires to allow them to pivot on your garage floor without the natural resistance to the changes in geometry that would give you a false reading on your measurements when turning right/left while parked? When working on my own car, I noticed that when I rolled it forward a bit the camber changed, then when I rolled it backward it changed again. I realized that due to it's toe and grip on the ground the camber would change as a result of opposing force from the surface trying to pinch the contact patches or pull them apart, depending on what toe was set or which way the tires were rolling. I did not have that 2-way lazy susan type wheel pad that allows them to not be influenced by the parking/test surface grip while turning them right/left and/or rolling. Since most of my driving is forward, to set it up for that, so I rolled it a few feet, set the toe, rolled it back twice as far and then rolled it back up to the forward mark. Same measurement. Good enough for me.
When I care enough, I have a pair of 24x24" vinyl floor tiles stacked under each front wheel with either salt (easy to clean up), or grease (messy) between them to let the front "settle" and reduce rotating friction.
Rear wheel drive = toe in, front wheel drive = toe out. Great explanation. Now I understand why.
Toe out on the front. Zero today's alignment. They had toe out for torque steer problems. Today everything is pretty close to zero with a little toe in. Especially on the rear wheels.😊
You deserve an award in explanation
Thank you, I am almost finished lowering my BRZ for lower center of gravity (yes I fixed the roll center) and this helped me understand how the wheel geometry all works together. I will be doing a string alignment and all this info will help me dial in everything. I installed all new poly bushings, some solid bushings and spherical bearings in my suspension. Sadly, I will have to use the drop string method and some trig to get the camber I want. Lot's of great info...
I've measured camber that way before - I set up a spreadsheet on a laptop so I just have to enter the distance to the string at the top and it tells me what the camber is. Takes too long though (grin).
@@GregWellwood to find caster, using a digital angle finder or a smart phone level, what is the math? Rotate your tire 20 ° in then check the camber angle, then 20° out, then check the camber angle. You subtract the lower number from the higher number, then multiply it by 1.43 or 1.5?
My caster camber tool is literally my favourite hand tool. There is something elegant about it