Big Tree Tech SKR 2 - Install - Marlin Configuration - Chris's Basement
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 พ.ค. 2024
- We're back.......
We're back with Big Tree Tech's SKR 2 mainboard. Today we discuss some of the problems BTT had with the SKR 2, do a deep dive into past boards along with a step by step install and configuration.
00:00 Introduction
02:05 Good Board / Bad Board
03:51 SKR Comparison
08:06 SKR 2 Features
10:28 Driver Install
14:16 Board Install
19:49 Marlin Configuration
44:02 Test Print
45:03 Conclusion
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docs.google.com/document/d/1s...
Helpful Videos:
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VS Code setup:
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All Things Z:
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Linear Advance:
• Linear Advance - Marli...
Marlin Filament Sensor:
• Filament Runout Sensor...
My Marlin config:
drive.google.com/drive/folder...
PID tuning:
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Auto level and babystepping:
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Link to reworked case:
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Welcome back Chris, looking forward to this season.
Me too, thanks for watching!
Glad to see you back at your desk for more useful videos. I was missing your clear and didactic explanations...and your basement. Welcome back Chris.
Thank you!
Thanks so much for this video Chris! Waiting for my board to arrive and this will definitely help take some of the guesswork out of setting it up. I wish I had had a video like this when first doing my setup of Marlin for the board I'm coming off.
Great, thanks for watching!
Great to have you back, hope you enjoyed your time off!
Thanks!
Thnak you, Chris. This is very helpful. I will be doing a SKR 2 Rev B, soon. Your attention to detail is much appreciated.
I'm happy to help!
Seriously awesome. Been looking for months for a good tutorial. Thank you!
Glad you liked it!
Very nice video Chris, glad to see you back!
Hey, thanks!
I was waiting for you to do a video with SKR 2 and Marlin 2.0.9.1. You make look very easy and have answer a lot of my questions.
Glad I could help
This is an awesome tutorial. I really appreciate your attention to detail. This helped me pair my SKR2 with my Ender 3. Had a few kinks to work out, but its 90% working, now.
That's great. I'm happy to help
Great to see you back Chris, it's been bloody boring without you.
Thank you!
Thank you so much for sharing knowledge with this video. I was waiting for a good and complete video about skr2.
I hope it helps!
Massive thank you from me for this video. My SKR V2 is imminent as I blew up my 1.4T which I cant get now. Very good timing!
Great!
Welcome back Chris, another great video!
Thank you!
Thanks Chris, nice to see you back, Learned so much from watching your channle over the years.
I appreciate that!
I installed mine 5 days ago on my E3 Max, and I love it, better, smoother, quiter movements. Best investment ever
Great, I'm glad it's working out.
Thanks again for all you do for us!
So nice of you!
Good to see another video. I would love to see reprap and or klipper coverage for this board. Your previous rrf coverage was really good!
Thanks! WIll do!
Welcome back Chris 😁
TH-cam isn't the same without you 🤟
Thanks!
Welcome back, just in time too, putting my SKR2 in soon.
I hope this helps!
Glad to see you back at it! I went through 2 SKR 2 rev B boards before going back to the SKR 1.4 Turbo. Luckily Microcenter has been able to keep the 1.4 in stock. But I do like the 1.3 as well. The SKR 2 felt like it had been rushed out.
Thanks, it's good to be back!
Excellent as always!
Thank you!
Hi Chris, thanks for the tutorial. Just wondering if we need to add u8glib for the graphical display or if that's only needed in arduino/marlin 1.9?
That is only needed for the Arduino IDE, VScode takes care of that for you.
Welcome back Chris. I’m definitely keeping this video in my important youtube folder since my winter project is to rip my ender 3 apart and go dual z on seperate drivers on the skr 2 with the tft50, the biqu h2, bl touch, filament runout sensor…. You just covered most of what i’ll have to figure out. Thanks.
Thanks for watching!
Good tutorial! Just what I needed 😌
Glad it helped!
Welcome back man! As always very useful videos. Maybe you can try the Robin motherboard series. Thanks for all the time you out into your explanations.
Thanks for the idea!
Welcome back my firend!
Thank you!
Can't say "welcome back" as this is my first time watching your videos. I will say "wow, how informative!" I am very glad I found this video, as I certainly needed this tutorial. Thank you!
As an update 4 months later... I don't think BIGTREETECH puts both QC stickers on anymore. I confirmed my board has the new mosfet, but only 1 green QC sticker.
Thanks for watching. I'm glad I could help!
same here only 1 sticker but confirmed it's revision b
same here only 1 sticker on rev b
Welcome back!
Thank you!
Awesome! Been waiting for this one 😁
Thanks, I hope it helps!
Great to see you
Thanks, it's good to be back!
We missed you!
Thanks, I'm glad to be back!
Welcome Back Chris! Can't await for this season, good time off?
Very Good, I got a lot done.
astazi te-am cautat toata ziua si filmu asta mi-a rezolvat toate problemele! esti tare,mc!
Mă bucur că am putut ajuta. Vă mulțumim pentru vizionarea videoclipurilor noastre.
Hello Chris Thanks for the interesting information.
Thanks for watching!
I have a 1.4 Turbo. While this video is for a V2, it was extremely helpful. Especially in regards to the 1.3 and 1.4 versions. Also, a lot of this video seems to apply even to the 1.4! Thanks a bunch for posting this.
Glad it helped! Thanks
Hi Chris, i am going to update my Delta (Kossel LP). Do i still need to cut out the DIAG pin on TMC2209 to use mechanical end stops like sugested in tutorials for 1.3 or 1.4 boards (Lucas Pomykal) .. or are there jumper options on SKR2 Rev2 for that?
No need, SKR2 has a jumper for that.
Yeah! Chris is back!
Good to be back!
Cool beans...Hey, Chris!!
"Cool beans!" I haven't heard that in a while! 😁
Welcome back
Thank you
I got SKR 2 on my christmas wishlist 😀👍
Woo Hoo! 🤞
Thank you! I learned a lot!
Great, thanks for watching!
Thanks a lot ! Complete tutorial !!!
Glad you liked it! Thanks
Welcome back! I was thinking about a reprap install on this board. Wondering if you would be doing a run through of a reprap setup on this at all?
Thanks, I'll look into it!
Thanks for the video!
Thanks for watching!
Great tutorial, thank you :) Just a small tip - you can navigate to the firmware.bin file (open the containing folder in Explorer/Finder) simply by clicking on the "Built "firmware.bin" at..." link displayed on the ABM panel (see 42:19). It is a bit easier than going back to the explorer in VS, .pio folder, etc.
Thanks for the info!
Very nice. For the CR-10 V2 (and it's relatives, I assume), I had to turn the display connectors upside down. I had to cut the polarity "key" off the connector to make that happen.
Yes, I have had a few I had to do that too as well.
Hi Chris! Any advise for mounting this board on a mk3s+? There's some parameters reference on line to get the right config?
Marlin has a config for it. I would just use this and change up the board settings. github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations/tree/import-2.0.x/config/examples/Prusa/MK3
Good video and lots of information. Will you have a tour of the basement make over?
That's the plan!
Thank you so much for the video. After completing the installation and configuration, I came with an issue : only half of the steps are executed...!! Sounds like this is a known issue with the TMC2209. I tried couple of fixes suggested, none worked for me and I finally got rid of the problem by swapping to TMC2208 drivers. Any idea what the cause is, what boards and/or drivers are impacted, any suggestion to fix the issue ?
Thank you.
My guess is that the 2209 board isn't configured for stand alone mode correctly. I have looked around before and it's very hard to find a 2209 that states it is for step/dir mode like you can on a 2208. For the life of me, I don't know why that is.
Inca nu e gata dar cred ca o sa mearga. Multumesc,am inteles cel mai bine de la tine.
Multumesc pentru comentariu.
Hey welcome back!
Interesting, BTT Octopus is currently for the same price, and it seems to be more feature rich.
I'll have to check it out.
Thanks Chris 🙏
Thank you
Hi Chris, love your videos. Any chance you ever did any review and/or upgrades on a Qidi Printer, Xmax in particular or the Tenlog TL-D3 Pro there's a lots of us out here that would love to see how you can upgrade it./them
Thanks! I have never had a Qidi, but I would be will to take a look at one.
Welcome Back my idol... 😍😍
Thanks!
EXCELLENT video! I just picked one up to revive an old printer and your video really nailed the key points!
One issue I do have is getting the onboard SDCARD to work with M20/etc... Any tips for setting up the onboard SD??
Thank you! Glad it helped, check out these settings in Marlin, configuration_adv.h they might help.
/**
* Set this option to one of the following (or the board's defaults apply):
*
* LCD - Use the SD drive in the external LCD controller.
* ONBOARD - Use the SD drive on the control board.
* CUSTOM_CABLE - Use a custom cable to access the SD (as defined in a pins file).
*
* :[ 'LCD', 'ONBOARD', 'CUSTOM_CABLE' ]
*/
//#define SDCARD_CONNECTION LCD
// Enable if SD detect is rendered useless (e.g., by using an SD extender)
//#define NO_SD_DETECT
@@ChrisRiley Thanks for the input! It is truly awesome how you reach out to help everyone here! I had played with those but gave them another look. As it turns out, #define USB_FLASH_DRIVE_SUPPORT was enabled and preventing marlin from reading the SD card. May play with //#define MULTI_VOLUME to see if that will allow both SDcard and USB Flash drive to work together.
Cheers!
LitterBug
Thanks for the video, Chris, it's very clear and helpful. I ran into an issue. I've followed the video instruction to setup marlin and after flashing the board i get a "tmc connection error". Do i need to do something to the drivers? I've seen some people talking about the soldering on the underside of the stepper for uart mode. Any ideas? /edit: Turns out, as i was flashing it on the bench, i hadn't checked it hooked up to a power supply yet. (just flashing on the bench powered by usb).
Glad you got it going!
Greetings Chris! This video was great to help me install this board. I have one issue, when I followed the same procedure my 2nd Z stepper was not working plugged into the E1 driver. Where do you assign E1 to the 2nd Z stepper?
Make sure you have this line in configuration_adv.h uncommented. #define NUM_Z_STEPPER_DRIVERS 1 set it to 2.
Hi Chris, Excellent Piece as Always. One Gotcha with the SKR2.0 that maybe apply as well to the previous generations, I replaced 3 months ago a Makerbase MKS Gen L board on a JG Aurora A5 with a 30cm 24V Bed. I assumed that as fare as the bed was concerned I would have no PB driving the bed with the SKR2. I had a quick look at the main specs and found nothing about it and assumed all OK. In fact if you scroll at the end of the Doc there is a Red warning not to Exceed 10A. My Bed draw 12A and worked without problem for a few prints until the board started smoking. I caught it in time and had to add a Heat bed controller. The mini Fuse on the board is rated at 20A and would have never blown, but it was just a question of time for my board to fail. I did not get around to it yet, but would recommend replacing the fuse to something more appropriate, like maybe 15A, would not have solved my problem but would have definitely blow before the board in case of a short. Keep up the good work !!!
You bring up great points, I think this would be a worthwhile test to show others that this might be dangerous.
@@ChrisRiley I have not seen all your videos and a quick look did not show a video where you add a heat bed controller, that might be an other video idea to explore for you. If you are interested I am using a Hiletgo Heat Bed controller. It works, although the amazon listing market it as 30A, but the unit mention a max of 25A. I did not buy it because it was the best or cheapest but at the time I needed a fast solution and I could buy it with Express delivery. On the positive it is rated 12 to 50V, in theory this could push out past 1000W to a heat bed or enclosure, if you can find anything that can match that power rating without going in main voltage territory which might be a bit too risky, maybe big volume printers ?
I still have to look up the fuses, don't know what model to look for yet. Take care.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C7RQ4C6/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@ChrisRiley Tx Chris, I had a quick look at your video catalog and did not see anything about using a Heat Bed controller board, maybe this can be a video for you to develop. I used a board by HiLetgo, not because of features or price, I needed a quick fix and this could be ordered express. It is indicated as a 30A board on Amazon, but in fact the rating Max 25A from 12 to 50V. Plenty enough for me and so fare running cool as a cucumber. I think this could be an alternative to Main Power heater beds as on 48V (Are there 48V Beds???) it could push out over 1000W.
Other than that still need to figure where I can order this mini Fuses, next thing on my list. Thanks again.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C7RQ4C6/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hi Chris and thanks for your straight forward, info filled tutorials. I've been upgrading my Creatbot DX with the skr2 and tft35v3 and followed your vids here. I found the cable for my tft was built the opposite of yours (V+, gnd,etc) re the markings and to enable it on the board had to use "serial 1". "0" and "-1" both wouldn't work with "0" bringing the error that it wasn't even an option! All good so far, now need to figure out how to implement the thermocouples it is built with...... Best regards from NZ, mate!
Maybe it's opposite because you're in the southern hemisphere. ;) I'm glad you got it worked out! Good luck
@@ChrisRiley to update. I changed the TFT35v3 fw from the Unified theme to the Round Miracle and got all the Hotends & fans showing on screen. The Unified would only show this in Marlin mode. Nothing on YT (or BTT) re the menu system and how it works. eg: "HOME" instantly sets the current position of the head as HOME..... bit of a trap. Cheers once more :)
An update and query - have everything working pretty much tho not got to the filament run-out yet of PWR out/restart.
Am stuck on getting the E0 & E1 Temps working. Am using the original Thermocouples with AD597a boards. Have selected "-1" for the "AD595" option but only get inflated readings; changed the options re Gain & Offset which gets a believable number but stays locked until heated then doesn't give a true reading. Is there a Temp Table to be implemented as well? Nothing in Marlin hints at needing one yet nothing acting normally. Any suggestions please?
@@ianofawai2797 I wonder if those are going to require and amplifier to work correctly?
Hi, they have AD597a amps. I'm thinking they may be configured as 'pass thru' amps and therefore can be set as a regular thermistor. Maybe using a PT100 table......
I'll be trying this next. Cheers
From one Chris to another, awesome tutorial dude - very helpful!
Right now, I'm trying to "Frankenstein Monster" a SKR 2.0 + Ender 3v2 + Jyer's Marlin machine. How do you think I should go about this?
Thank you! That one I don't know about. I know my buddy Bryan Vines here on TH-cam has done it. He has the BV3D channel.
@@ChrisRiley Update, it seems pretty straightforward, but the only issue remaining is that the SKR 2.0 board seems to be incompatible with the stock Ender 3v2 LCD screen
I managed to get the stock Ender 3 v2 DWIN LCD screen to work with my SKR 2.0 board with the help of Atilla from the TH-cam channel "Solutions Hungary One"~
Chris, is there anything we need to add to get the constant 12/24v pins along the top of the board live? It seems many others running Marlin have had no luck in getting the non PWM fan connectors to go hot on these SKR2 boards.
There shouldn't be anything else you would need to do.
@@ChrisRiley thanks for the reply. Shortly after sending that I realized I had a bad board... While ts I let out some magic smoke and the constant headers started working...... But now nothing else does. Great walkthrough though. Should take the plunge and show us normies how to get klipper up and running!
great video.
Thanks!
Hi I have a skr1.4 Turbo board with 2209 driver and set up as corexy for a laser and therefore use only the x and y axis.
Since I have not been able to make sensorless homing work I have cut a few pieces and put endswitch on, but get the same error and just can not see what is wrong, I can home x and y who separately and it works but when i set it to home y and then x, it run as it should until x is done and then i have to restart, do you have any ideas for what might be wrong! have tried different versions of marlin and it gives the same result
Check this setting. //#define CODEPENDENT_XY_HOMING //#define HOME_Y_BEFORE_X Are either one enabled?
@@ChrisRiley sorry for the slightly late feedback, but thanks for the answers and the great videos you make
Allan
Hi Chris, Thanks for the great videos. My skr 2 is working perfectly. no issues. any updates on skr 3? is it worth it?
We will see very soon! :)
Awesome! Have any plans on a BTT Octopus / Octopus Pro video?
There's been some requests. I'll check it out!
quick question .....so i have the single green sticker, but with the good HY1904 mosfet. am i technically ok?
Yep, you should be all set
@@ChrisRiley i wish you could do a "how to" to compile marlin for a maker base v3.1 with 2209s. a few of us are having a tough time compiling for it. the makerbase eagle to be exact, but its all integrated. identical to BTT E3 Turbo with dual extruder option.
Thanks for the video, My SKR 2 just came in! Now I noticed that it didn't have the 2nd QC sticker but its MOSFET is a HY1904 (the newer one you spoke of) so should it be good?
Yep, the newer ones don't have both, you should be good.
@@ChrisRiley thank you!
Looking up boards and I see SKR 3 is now the next new board... Hopefully close to what you have been covering.
Yes, they are going to be pretty close to the same setup. We will be doing some SKR3 stuff soon.
ok so what are the external pinouts for the 2208 uart steppers? this entire unwanted upgrade was jumping into the deep end before I was ready.
Which 2208 driver boards do you have?
Hey there thank you for this video!! I just purchased the skr2 board. Mine has the green sticker and no chrome sticker but it has the H1904 on it so maybe it's a good board. Anyways I need advice /help. I have a anycubic kossel linear plus and the board went out on it and thays why I got the skr2. I'm going to try and put the skr2 board on my kossel and I'm kind of worried it won't work but I'm not am expert by no means when it comes to this so if you have any helpful tips or suggestions then send them my way I'd much appreciate it. I've always loved watching your vids. Very informative and they've helped me alot in the past and it's good to see you back !!!!
Yes, your board should be all good. The delta config is a challenge, this board will work great for it, it's just going to take a lot of config changes to get it working just right. I would start with the kossel example config that Marlin offers then start changing things from there.
@@ChrisRiley thank you for the input and I got everything hooked up and labeled now. I unhooked everything so I could build a cooling board cover for it and when thats done then the fun begins 😆 . I love your vids! They have helped me out alot in this journey of 3d printing and I'm sure they will continue to help in the future.
very useful thanks.
Thank you!
Thank you for the great Video! Any chance to do a tutorial how to install Klipper on SKR2 ?
I'll look into it
@@ChrisRiley Thank you! I have converted my printer into Voron SW but still running Marlin because I didn't know how to setup the TMC2130 sensorless Homing. I'd really appreciate if you can guide me
Thanks to this video my printer is bavk online. Thanks
Is everything working now?
@@ChrisRiley I am going to put this here so that everyone knows why you are the absolute King. I read the email, and after double checking everything, I looked back at the pinout and you know the 5 bare pins next to the TFT socket, well I can tell you they aren't for the TFT serial connection. after moving them to the TFT socket what do you know it works. Thanks again for tolerating my stupid human tricks.
My Makerbase Nano Robin V3 was having problems. I had a spare BTT SKR 2 revision B on hand. I am too fearful to use it because of what happened with the original. Prices for new boards have skyrocketed for some strange reason lately.
I hear you, just be careful to check everything before you plug it in.
I have a ender3 400 x 400 extender kit with a skr mini 3 v2 and a tft 35 monitor. After updating my firmware when looking at the leveling corner it's not check the whole bed like it should. Seems like the is still at 230x230. When I check the mesh it works, checks the 400x400. Can you help me solve my problem.
Bed X and Y size is really all that controls this. If you can move to the 400x400 size, leveling should do the same unless they are manually set in configuration_adv.h.
@@ChrisRiley I had to change the TFT build size as well in the config.ini
Hello Chris, thanks for your great videos! I need your help: I have a SKR 2 and run it with 2 Z-Drivers. But in the current Marlin firmware 2.0.9.5 or 2.1 the entry #define NUM_Z_STEPPER_DRIVERS 2 is no longer available. It was still there in 2.0.9.3. Do you have a hint for me? Best regards from Germany ;-)
Thanks for watching! That option would be on by default in the newer version if you enable the Z2 driver. //#define Z2_DRIVER_TYPE A4988
25:38 I think you made a mistake here. PA10 is part of the 5 pin TFT connector, which is just above the 2 connectors for a BLtouch. The probe pin appears to be PE4, though I haven't tested that just yet.
i second that, as I'm literally installing this board as I type, also PE5 is the servo not PA9....Im not using the Z endstop...im using probe and servo...knowing this i just uncomment define Z to use probe correct? And comment the use z endstop.
I'll know in a min when i fllash the board lmao
Yes i was correct in the define z to use probe if you use the bltouch row of pins and not the z end stop pins, only thing i got wrong was part cooling somehow
I could have, sorry about that, I probably read the pins file wrong.
@@ChrisRiley All good man, thank you for making this guide!
Also agree on this one, I couldnt figure out why it wasn't working until I double checked the pinout.
Hi Chris, what do you thinks about the BTT octopus v1v1? (I building a printer from scratch.)
It looks cool, I am going to start testing it soon.
Do you have a video that outlines what is necessary to get the SKR2 Rev B to allow USB - Serial Uploads of bin files? (Arduino bootloader?) For instance, do we need to use an STLINK in between via the SWD? Or is there another method?
I think STLINK would be the only option, I would have to investigate how to set that up.
Great video ! It is really usefull. Is there any chance you know how to sort out a Error: Could not find one of 'package.json' manifest files in the package error during compile?
That usually means there is something not right with the file set. OneDrive can cause these issues. Close VScode, reopen and then run a CLEAN this should help.
Hi Chris. I was wondering how you keep your filament dry even though you have them hanging in the ambience. I have mine and it prints like crap. I had to throw away a bulk stock of filament i bought because of moisture and brittle filament that broke inside the nozzle causing clogs. Is there filament i can buy that does not absorb moisture or goes brittle from long storage durations? Cheers Chris.
Hey, it really depends on how the filament is made. Some just falls apart over time. It's very hit and miss.
Hi Sir, I have some issue with SKR 2 REV B - It's shows TMC connection error. I am using TMC2209
Double check your jumper and reseat the drivers. Good luck
I don't have the second sticker on mine but I do have the HY1904 chip. scared me for a min but looks like I'm good lol
Yes, that was just for the first couple of runs, you should be good now a days.
I missed the part fan configuration. where is that done? I got the e0 fan, but looking back i didn't see you set the Part cooling fan.
Part cooling goes on fan0 (PB7) closes to the power plug, hotend fan on fan1. th-cam.com/video/1PPBHn-jU0k/w-d-xo.html
Hey, thanks for the reply and so quick. I eventually just plugged it in and figured it out. It seems that the PB7 is the default part fan and the other can be used for other fans I guess. Since i haven't seen any docs that call this out i have to guess that all of the fans 5-7 can be managed by the board for power and through marlin you can set them to do different things. I'm guessing that if you don't change marlin that maybe that ALL act as parts fans unless specifically called out? Not sure. I have it set the way you do for now and all seems good. My big issue is the FTF35 that not connecting. I found that the 5V TFT pin is only reading 1.3V and the RX pin is shorted to ground..so maybe a bad board. Thanks again!! @@ChrisRiley
Hi, THX for Your great videos. I have seen in older videos maybe also here, that some commands are red underlined for an error. Mostly the "Enabled" "ANY" an so on. I have the same errors, so its not easy to see if defined or not. Is there a way to get off of this red underlines. LG Stangl from Bavaria
Hey, I have noticed that same thing. I have been looking for some sort of extension to make this better, but haven't found anything helpful yet. It appears to be some sort of bug with how VScode handles the C language.
I was wondering, i still have my two prusa mk2,5s printers but they need a board upgrade desperately. Would i be able to follow this video (particullary im thinking about the configuration of the firmware part and the fact that they are 12v systems). Great video as always Chris :)
Yes, this config would be pretty close to what you needed to do for your MK2's.
@@ChrisRiley thanks for the reply Chris. From my understanding the skr board will work with 12v input voltage aswell. (I wouldn't mind replacing the psu to a 24v version although replacing the bed would be a bit more costly and I'd rather not do that).
Could you explain how can I use a PT100 with SKR 1.4 turbo?
The easiest way is to buy a module to add on to your board. www.amazon.com/BIGTREETECH-Temperature-Accessories-Control-Printer/dp/B08PC22D6F/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=bigtreetech+pt100&qid=1634999990&qsid=130-3509954-3210169&sr=8-2&sres=B08PC22D6F%2CB0978ZNDPJ%2CB09713SRVP%2CB07D9LSKWK%2CB0943WVM5B%2CB08NV8XL4G%2CB089CQ3DHB%2CB07FFTHMMN%2CB08BRVBQ5R%2CB07VWGFKLZ%2CB07QJ4MZVN%2CB08B3CJBRN%2CB07D5JXDBQ%2CB082QYYFVX%2CB07ZTM9CSQ%2CB07JGJKPT9
@@ChrisRiley yes, but how is it used?
Just wanted to do a quick comment. I got an SKR 2 board and it does not have the second QC sticker, but it does have the HY1904 on it so I think they are not all having that second sticker anymore. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for the info!
Can you use the MMU2S with this board? I would love to changeout out my MK2.5S with MMU2S and use this board with silent drivers.
You can, but it's tricky to get setup and you will lose all the nice Prusa firmware add ons. You have to run Marlin.
I just received an SKR 2 today, it's the revision B board with the HY1904, there's only one QC sticker now. So I'm guessing that the 2 stickers were only for boards that they had to fix.
Ah, good to know.
Great video 😍 , but I ran into an issue which is there is no power at all!! I checked the jumper and they are correctly fitted, and power supply jumper is fine but no power at all, any idea about this issue ?
Thanks! Wow, the only things I can think of is to check that jumper, make sure the input voltage is on the correct terminal and check the fuse. You can swap the 2 micro fuses as a test, but I wouldn't run it that way.
@@ChrisRiley I will try and see what happens, thanks 🙏🏻
@@ChrisRiley The power supply is giving 24 V no issue with it at all, I changed the jumper to new one put, and I switched the micro fuse but the same issue. The board not working at all !!
I have an Anet ET5X that seems to have died. Could you recommend a replacement board?
Just about any board would work, but make sure it uses standard JST style connectors before you buy one, some of these printers have specialized plugs on them. Also, with the touch screen, you might not be able to get it working on a 3rd party board. All that said, if you want to go with a lower cost board, I like the BigTreeTech SKR 2.
@@ChrisRiley ok thx.
What are the connectors you have on the heated bed wires and the power in wires?
Those are ferrule geni.us/XsSxK
When you order the SKR 2, also order a set micro-fuses on Ali, there easy to get there and cheap.
I just Blown the 20A fuse on my SKR 1.3 after upgrading my PSU unit to 600W. Turns out my heatbed draws way over 20A when not restricted. (Old Tevo Tarantula 20x28cm bed wired for 24V)
Marlin setting MAX_BED_POWER was my Saviour! Setting it to 170 gives a max of 20A when heating. (from 18C to 100C in 2 minutes now)
So yes, make sure you have spare fuses 😎
Thanks for the tip!
@@ChrisRiley You're welcome, love your channel!
How'd you get the colors? All of my text is white, makes it confusing
Hi, I'm not sure what your referring to.
@@ChrisRiley In the Visual Studio program.
I am curious how this handles a MK3S+ which uses two power feeds from the PSU and the parts fan is a 3 pin.
It would probably work out well. You would have to run non-prusa firmware of some kind, the yellow wire on the fan would be the tacho that the prusa firmware uses, but you wouldn't need it in other firmware types.
Hey Chris. I have a cr10 v3 that I am building a completely new control box using the skr 2 and one of the btt tft touch screens, new psu and everything. I'm putting it in a heated enclosure. This is a great video. I'm wondering where you get your info from. I'm comfortable compiling new firmware for the printer and the new hotend type and all that. A data sheet I guess I am looking for. I'd really appreciate it if you just gave me a quick answer. I plan to reuse these parts for when I build a voron 2.4 but I want practice with the hardware and software. I want the ability to print abs for the voron parts. Also I'll have a bunch of the electronics for the voron. I'm going to use klipper with a pi after I get the new control box working. The cr10 v3 has no info anywhere. I am comfortable with coding and the wiring.
The info is actually pretty hard to find. Usually, I will consult the Marlin example configs that people have already made. These prove to be pretty accurate most of the time.
@@ChrisRiley awesome Chris thanks. You are a fellow metalhead I see. Proper thing.
Hi Chris. Great guide. I have just replaced my burned out SKR 1.4 Turbo with an SKR 2 on my Prusa I3 MK2 clone. After following your guide, the only issue I have is that the two z-axis steppers seem to have a different number of steps per unit. I have mimicked you config by plugging one in to the E1 connector. I get a warning of #warning "Auto-assigned Z2 STEP/DIR/ENABLE_PINs to unused En_STEP/DIR/ENABLE_PINs.", which I would expect? Where should I be looking to solve this?
I have tried going back to parallel connected Z axes. My LCD shows the TCM CONNECTION ERROR. The Z Axis moves twice as far as it should. I am using the same settings as I had on my SKR 1.4 Turbo. Does anybody have any idea what is wrong?
SENDING:M122
Testing X connection... OK
Testing Y connection... OK
Testing Z connection... Error: All LOW
Testing E connection... OK
Ok. I solved my problem. Maybe this will help others. I had decided my board was faulty, disconnected everything and taken the bird out of its case. I took out the TMC2209s and then realised the jumper was in the wrong position for the z driver! I smacked my forehead with my palm, reassembled and all was well.
Hey Tony, just now getting around to reading through this. Glad you found the issue and kept us updated.
I was watching your skr 1.4 turbo and My printer says no printer attached, how do i fix that?
There should be no Marlin changes as far as the screen goes. You just need to hook up the 5 TFT wires to the TFT pins on the board. In Marlin you just have to make sure the baud rate on the screen and Marlin match for all the serial ports. Try setting serial 1 to -1 and serial 2 to 2.
I have a revision A board and my chip there blew up when I plugged in my driver, the Correct way... So ... I donno if they will swap it out or not
They have had a lot of issues with these, so it's worth a try for sure.