I had a 96 Chevy 1500 truck 4x4 5.7 V-8... crank no start it would kind of shudder or slightly start but not run smooth then just crank but would not start. Replaced the cap and rotor along with ignition coil pack and it started right up and runs great now. I didn't just throw parts at it though i did about 2 hours of checking fuel pump, fuel relay, pressure at fuel rail and it all checked out. Next tested spark it was there but faint or weak not much flash in my tool tester. Pulled the cap and rotor and had a burn hole in the rotor so I knew I was on the right track. Replaced ignition coil and cap and rotor and its fixed. Hope this helps someone with my symptoms!!
Yes, it does help your comments; sounds that this problem is kind of common. I am ordering the coil, cap, rotor, and the crankshaft sensor to see what happen. Like you everything else is checking ok.
Jose Burgos good I'm glad it helps. I would do the cap, rotor and coil pack first and see if it starts before doing the crank sensor. That way if it starts you know what it was and if it doesn't start then change the sensor out and try to start it again unless you want to just change the sensor too but if not it will save you time and you can return the sensor as long as you don't install it. And yeah definitely is common with age and miles just because those are parts that are constantly under use the entire time its running unlike a starter etc.. I decided once I found the burn mark on the rotor to change the coil pack too incase it was malfunctioning and caused it to burn up and also so I know that my ignition and spark parts are all new at the same time. I have to say after I replaced those parts its been great! So good luck and let me know if you need any help or have a question and I'll try to get back to you ASAP.
Just wanted to leave a feedback so others can benefit as I did. I have a 99' Suburban with a 5.7L engine on it. I had a crank no-start due to the crankshaft sensor. To make it easy for all, I did check for battery voltage and compared the measurement on the battery touching ground at the engine and other areas, then checked for spark on my #1, I had my 60 PSI on the fuel, good compression, it was not the alarm system. Then I said to myself, if is not the crankshaft sensor ($28 in Rock Auto vs. $70 plus in AutoZone then it would be the distributor shaft broken. Lucky me, I installed the sensor and that was it. My theory is that when you leave a car without starting it for a long time, those sensor oxide in the inside even though you might think that there is no way to get humidity but it does. I did not check the resistance to compare it but I will. Hopefully this comment help others as well.
Hmm....i could use some advice.. i have that same pickup in the vid ...97 (even the same color). it died on me in the middle of the road.....i changed the cap and rotor...still crank no start.,. i checked fuel pressure....64-65 psi at key on... i checked the injectors by using a snapon computer and pulsing each injector individually......each injector pulsed and sounded fine...(still no start). i used my timing light and checked for spark to each cyl....all good to the plug...plugs new(still no start) i disconnected the MAF sensor to send it into "limp home mode" in case it was the MAF......no change... now if it were the crank sensor it would not spark right?......i do have spark sooo.... i dont get it...im running out of ideas and money to throw at it....and im in deep trouble without it as it gets close to bad weather seasons.....any advice would help greatly...
Thank you! This helped me fix my stranded 99 surburban.. it had intermittently had no start on these rainy heavy humidity days twice before.. but started after sitting.. Same rainy day.. no spark/no start.. You saved hour/hours of troubleshooting & repair!! Thank you!!
240xxx miles. Aint that cute. I have a 1997 5.7 tahoe with a million 250xxx all original. Nothing but fluid changes breaks and 2 fuel pumps and i pull a 30ft camper full time with her. Keep up the good maintenance my friend. It pays off.
soon as you said how the truck died while driving and that you had tried starter fluid to get it started and it didn't start, first thing that came to mind was the coil and sure enough that's what it was. didn't help that the distributor cap and rotor were so bad. I went to school to be a mechanic and did an engine swap on a car and it ran okay when it left the shop but after it had been driven by it's owner for a couple of hours it did the exact same thing and I wound up going over to where they were and diagnosing the problem and fixing it. it turned out to be the coil also. a very frustrating thing to go through especially since it was raining while I was trying to work on the car
Same thing happened to my 1500 5.0, I just changed the wires, cap and rotor, but it turned out that the Ignition module attached to the coil itself was the root of the issue. I had an extra module hanging around from a 1996 Impala SS, and just transferred the new one over to the known bad one. Runs like a top now!
Thanks for the video. Watched it because I was having the same issues with my 97' Suburban and when I removed the distributor cap and rotor it was identical to yours. Replaced the parts and it started right up.
Thanks pal!! Love my 98 4x4...! I take it to work and it sits for a month at a time.Last few times she would start, but run rough, backfiring and stumble, etc.Thought maybe condensation in my fuel.Replaced fuel filter and put in new fuel...still, it quit and wouldnt start.Finally got it home and im replacing coil, cap, rotor, module, etc.Im positive its ignition.Somewhere in there! HA! Pulled the cap and it was corroded and worn....heres to hoping! Thanks again!
More over guys when a truck hits that big 100K mark replace the ignition module in the Dist. In some cases it smooths out bad idling and other rough run issues. The 5.7 are prone to Air Idle switch issues at times on the Express vans along with the rough issues as well.
I was having the same problem, thanks to your video I was able to diagnose my ignition coil was bad and able to save $400+ I didn't have to pay for a tow and repair... Thank you, thank you, thank you... Keep up the great videos!
I had these symptoms over the weekend and fixed my 1998 Chevy Tahoe. I would say that you should test the ignition coil for a spark first before you undo those bolts. I took it out before testing it and had to put it back in to test it and it had a nice spark so I knew it was probably the cap and rotor. I replaced those and if fired right up. Cap and rotor wasn't too bad.
Did yiu have a check engine light on? I have a p1351. It does start but it's a hard to start specially when it's super cold outside. Gotta crank it twice or more to start. I had the ignition module tested and it came back as bad so I installed a new one along with a new coil. I'm gonna have to check the cap and rotor. I might have to also test the starter. It might be starting to fail.
Also when replacing the coil pack it has two pins pressed in to hold it to the bracket instead of drilling I used two good punches and was able to punch the pins right out in one or two minutes instead of drilling it out. I spray it with PB Blaster or WD-40 and then start the punch and give it another quick spray half way through and the pins will just start to fall apart and it'll come right out of the bracket. I did have a drill ready if I needed it but the punch and a hammer did the trick. Just a tip to anyone looking for ways to get those "rivet pins" out. Good Luck.
My 99 Sub is acting like this. Why didn't I think of just sticking the coil in to check it? Sheesh. Well done! My rotor and cap had fuzz growing in it. Thanks for this man. I appreciate it.
I had spark, compression, and good fuel pressure. Still wouldn’t start. It was moisture in the distributor cap. I shot it with my heat gun for about 15 minutes and it fired right up.
When the Ford driver pulls up Driver - hey need some help Me - sure you got some tools Driver - na but I can tow u to a close spot Me - no thanks I don't want my Chevy to catch the Ford
@@lesliebowling5889 lol ford don't need tools cluttering the inside of the vehicle or outside carry along because you never know when it will shut down on you like this chevy
On a Chevy Astro, if the car won't start on rainy days, run a ground wire from the coil body to a cast iron metal part or battery ground cable as ground. Put sealer under the distributor cap to seal it. Replace the cap and rotor and coil and module. Change the plug wires. Lift the distributor with the cap removed to check the distributor gear play.
I have a 98 z71 extra cab with 194000, parked it when I got off work, the next morning it wouldn't start at all just would crank, took the box off tittle body sprayed some starter fluid and it started and cut back off, but I didn't hook the box back up when doing that so not having the maf sensor on could be why it cut back off, I know last week, 1 morning I was driving and my truck started to misfire bad, ima try and do a tune up when i get off today, I just replaced the fuel pump last year and I can hear it turn on and off so I'm ruling that out, my truck usually never has problems but she is 20 years old, I'll let you know if I have any luck..
Excellent video; thank you much for your time to put this together for those of us DIY. For sure this will help me find my 1999 Suburban problem that haven't find out as of yet...
I have the same problem, same truck... Mines just won't start when moisture is in the air.... I think maybe it's the coil also...I need to check rotor cap/rotor button. Could be a hairline crack I can't see... I spray Wire Dry on wires & components at times.... Good video !
My 99 Suburban just did the same only I was trying to park in a parking spot an the truck just died an I just did plugs wires cap an roter it ran fine then just died out so I'm hoping it's the same issue
and last! I have 3 of these and they are coming up on 20 years old. They still run like sewing machines and the exterior and interiors have worn very well I might add. If parts are still available, maybe they will run another 20 years?
Yes, it did. That goes all the way back to 1975 with V8 Chevy and GMC. The high resistance causes and big arch and eventually the cap gets a hole blown through it and the truck shuts off. Often the hole is much smaller and harder to detect. But that is/was the root cause. Good eye!!
I HAVE A 1998 GMC sierra SLT 1500. NEW FUEL PUMP .PROBLEM THATS HAPPING IS SHE START UP NICE IF IT'S COLD OR WARM OUT.AFTER DRIVING HER TO THE STORE AND SHE SIT FOR ABOUT 30MIN. SHE WILL NOT START WITH THE KEY,I ALWAYS HAVE TOO PUT MY FOOT ON THE PEDAL, FOR HER TOO START.130,000 MILES ,I replaced WIRE & PLUGS ONLY.AND FUEL PUMP. ALSO PUT A NEW STARTER IN HER.I REALLY LOST MY MIND ON THIS.can you give me some tips???
Ispent so much money on replacing all sensors under te hood on my 97 tahoe.Even replaced my fuel pump at a walmrt lot.But still wont start!So i guess im gonna have to give my rotor and cap,maybe shaft a look
Did this problem stay resolved??? I have a 98 chevy 1500 that refuses to start after rain. I have replaced all the plugs and wires, rotor and cap. Runs like a champ but has problems starting in the rain. Any help or advice is appreciated its becoming a serious issue.
It might be the purple wire on the neutral safety switch on the transmission mine is doing the same thing I just found it ordered both new plugs for 19.00 on Amazon it starts right up at the moment I'll put the new plugs on when they come Tuesday
My truck just did this same shit. 96 Chevy. Same exact problems. Ran perfect went to go home boom wouldn't start. Before it had a sluggish start hit the gas then it'd run good
So about how often do you have to do the coil replacement? Mine has 211,000 and I know I have to do the cap/rotor on my 98 K1500, and I wonder if it would be worth just throwing a new coil on her. I may do a full Spark Plug/Wire job as well on the next tuneup (last done at 186,000 when I bought her). Also, did you end up getting a code about the spark advance out of spec? I can't remember the code off hand, but the last time I fiddled around with the cap/rotor, it threw that code and I had to play around with the placement of the rotor to put it back in spec to turn the check engine light off. I was curious to see if your truck threw that same one shortly after.
I never got a spark advance code, these caps and rotors are pretty stationary unless you mess with the base. As far as the cap, rotor, and coil on yours, I would just replace it all. $100 in preventative maintenance could save you from a breakdown in the middle of nowhere, I would say it's worth it.
Yo as a mechanic replacing wires and plugs out of replace the distributor cap and rotor and coil at 250,000 miles it would have been a done deal and I would have never had that problem but you might want to look at you fuel pump
Mine did the same exact thing at the dollar general and there was a I had went through 2 different coils because O’Reillys gave me bad one I finally just went to advanced auto and got a working one.
my 98 gmc k1500 had a miss....total tuneup , coil, plugs, wires cap and rotor, maf, fuel filter , alternator etc.....helped but still a small miss then was driving 55 and it quit , crank no start ....it was the GROUND STRAP WIRE .....runs from back of engine block ( hard to get to ) held on by a nut , down thru a tube to the passenger side frame , it had broken into ...so I'm thinking when it was still attached but corroded that was causing my miss then it broke and fuel cut off
Same problem, I had people telling me it was the fuel pump but you could hear it when key was on aux churning, and cycle back when shut off ignition. Thanks! I'm no mechanic, but anyone can fix something if they 1. Know how it goes together, and most importantly what it's functions are, and 2. If they aren't fucking idiots and use the right tools for the job.
Listen to the video again. He didn't say he touched the plugs or wires. He said he already replaced them before the truck quit running. Hence he knew he didn't need to look at them.
I know this is an old video but I have the same truck and was just curious on things (big or little) you’d recommend just checking over and replacing I’m at 163,xxx miles
I have a 98 Chevy k1500 truck 4+4 5.7l v-8 and if I take the air intake off the vortech intake off it won’t run right would that mean I have a air leak somewhere ?? I’m confused because you took it off and it runs good if I take mine off and start it it will pop and run relly rough then die
Brings back memories of my step dad tuining up the lifters... its strange he started the truck and torqued the lifters one at a time.... Im glad vehicles are all electric now
yes but I hate the way the old stuff has to be done over and over just to get one job finished.. With electronic stuff you just swap it out reprogram and make your money
My 1997 is cranking but not starting, I replaced the cap and the rotor and replaced my spark plugs and spark wires, I’m not sure what’s stopping it from starting.
My 96 silverado starts for 1-2 secs then shuts off any Idea what could cause it to turn off? I already changed the Ignition coil, spark plugs and wires, distributor cap & rotor, crankshaft sensor, and fuel pump all AC Delco.
hi Daniel, i own a 1998 Chevy Cheyenne c1500 v8 5.0 and my symptoms are these and only these. my truck doesn't always start on the first key pull but will more often start on the 2nd key pull and almost always start on the 3rd key pull. what do you think it could be anyone have a guess please do let me know. thanks in advance!!!
I have a 97 vortec and here lately it has lost its power and acceleration and missing and it's hard to start also once I get it running and drive it for a little and shut it off and try to start it it just turns over and I drove it home from work and next day went to go start it It will just turn over it will fire a couple times then die could it be distributor cap and rotor bad or possibly fuel pump or even both any help is appreciated
sometimes you can diagnose these pretty easily if it so happens that the coil pack is loose inside the square metal surround and or mounting bracket chances are its been vibrating for so long that internally it has failed , vibrations and electronics don't mix well and the little solder connections are brittle to begin with even if it has the resin coating on it still.
I wish you had checked for spark first. I have a 99 denali that has spark but wont start. The spark seems a little weak. I don't want to buy a new coil if I don't need it. It has 60 lbs fuel pressure. any ideas?
Jim Gordon Get a Actron CP9690 code tester. It checks live, record, emissions test, oxygen sensor test, record, and MORE! It works from 1983-2013 and is updatable. EBAY has it.
I'm having the same problem with my 95 chevy z71. Timing chain is good, replaced distributor cap, rotor, and ignition control module, still turns but no start. Did you have any spark from the plugs before changing the coil? The mechanic says he got spark from a plug wire, but can the coil still be bad, Even with a spark? Need help plz.
I need help my truck quit running couple days ago I was driving and without warning my truck just shut off, I replaced the crank sensor and new timing chain. When I aligned the timing marks on the crank and cam gears my distributor was pointing toward the back fire wall. I have no idea how this could have happened. If anyone can think of something please let me know. Thank you
my 96 silverado had a bad no start condition where you would crank and crank and crank and it would occasionally pop after cranking, like "crank, stop......pop.......pop.......pop. " what could that be?
To set your distributor back in take motor top dead center on piston number one and make sure your timing point is on zero put distributor in some times it is easier with two people someone pushing on distributor someone taps the key and distributor will fall into place but make sure the tab on bug is facing number one cylinder
305 V 8 eng. Cranks real slow don't spins to slow to fire hot spark hi compressing 120 pressing new starter new wires took spark plug out to see if cranks faster but did not? Why is there something wrong in side of eng. HELP!
Hmm....i could use some advice.. i have that same pickup (even the same color). it died on me in the middle of the road.....i changed the cap and rotor...still crank no start.,. i checked fuel pressure....64-65 psi at key on... i checked the injectors by using a snapon computer and pulsing each injector individually......each injector pulsed and sounded fine...(still no start). i used my timing light and checked for spark to each cyl....all good to the plug...plugs new(still no start) i disconnected the MAF sensor to send it into "limp home mode" in case it was the MAF......no change... i dont get it...im running out of ideas and money to throw at it....and im in deep trouble without it as it gets close to bad weather seasons.....any advice would help greatly...
@@gilligan106 i hope you get it all figured out... let me know if it solves your issue also.... it stumped me and my mechanic for a bit untill i figured that out.
@@discoveryman It was my distributor. The gear on the bottom had worn out, and would intermittently work. Now that I've changed it out. It starts, but I need to time it, and its raining on my day off. 🤯
I'm 42 years old and I got tired of buying cars really fast I went back to buying these old trucks they really reliable Motors and the parts are very cheap at any Auto Parts if you go to these TH-cam videos you'll find out that all the parts and all the problems are mostly the same try putting on new parts on these cars every now and then and these motors will run great...
I had a 96 Chevy 1500 truck 4x4 5.7 V-8... crank no start it would kind of shudder or slightly start but not run smooth then just crank but would not start. Replaced the cap and rotor along with ignition coil pack and it started right up and runs great now. I didn't just throw parts at it though i did about 2 hours of checking fuel pump, fuel relay, pressure at fuel rail and it all checked out. Next tested spark it was there but faint or weak not much flash in my tool tester. Pulled the cap and rotor and had a burn hole in the rotor so I knew I was on the right track. Replaced ignition coil and cap and rotor and its fixed. Hope this helps someone with my symptoms!!
Yes, it does help your comments; sounds that this problem is kind of common. I am ordering the coil, cap, rotor, and the crankshaft sensor to see what happen. Like you everything else is checking ok.
Jose Burgos good I'm glad it helps. I would do the cap, rotor and coil pack first and see if it starts before doing the crank sensor. That way if it starts you know what it was and if it doesn't start then change the sensor out and try to start it again unless you want to just change the sensor too but if not it will save you time and you can return the sensor as long as you don't install it. And yeah definitely is common with age and miles just because those are parts that are constantly under use the entire time its running unlike a starter etc.. I decided once I found the burn mark on the rotor to change the coil pack too incase it was malfunctioning and caused it to burn up and also so I know that my ignition and spark parts are all new at the same time. I have to say after I replaced those parts its been great! So good luck and let me know if you need any help or have a question and I'll try to get back to you ASAP.
Thanks Chris, I got the parts and we will see what happen tomorrow. Will update with the discoveries.
Jose Burgos Good Luck to you, I'm sure you'll get it back on the road!
Crankshaft sensor ($28); see comments above. Thanks Chris
Just wanted to leave a feedback so others can benefit as I did. I have a 99' Suburban with a 5.7L engine on it. I had a crank no-start due to the crankshaft sensor. To make it easy for all, I did check for battery voltage and compared the measurement on the battery touching ground at the engine and other areas, then checked for spark on my #1, I had my 60 PSI on the fuel, good compression, it was not the alarm system. Then I said to myself, if is not the crankshaft sensor ($28 in Rock Auto vs. $70 plus in AutoZone then it would be the distributor shaft broken. Lucky me, I installed the sensor and that was it. My theory is that when you leave a car without starting it for a long time, those sensor oxide in the inside even though you might think that there is no way to get humidity but it does. I did not check the resistance to compare it but I will. Hopefully this comment help others as well.
I have a n 88 Landcruiser with the 350 Vortec in it, left it for 3 weeks...wouldnt start. now it does but runs like a bag of shit. Not even driveable.
Was your security light ever on though
Hmm....i could use some advice..
i have that same pickup in the vid ...97 (even the same color).
it died on me in the middle of the road.....i changed the cap and rotor...still crank no start.,.
i checked fuel pressure....64-65 psi at key on...
i checked the injectors by using a snapon computer and pulsing each injector individually......each injector pulsed and sounded fine...(still no start).
i used my timing light and checked for spark to each cyl....all good to the plug...plugs new(still no start)
i disconnected the MAF sensor to send it into "limp home mode" in case it was the MAF......no change...
now if it were the crank sensor it would not spark right?......i do have spark sooo....
i dont get it...im running out of ideas and money to throw at it....and im in deep trouble without it as it gets close to bad weather seasons.....any advice would help greatly...
discoveryman
Any luck?
@@discoveryman did you figure anything out mines doing the same...
Thank you! This helped me fix my stranded 99 surburban.. it had intermittently had no start on these rainy heavy humidity days twice before.. but started after sitting..
Same rainy day.. no spark/no start..
You saved hour/hours of troubleshooting & repair!!
Thank you!!
240xxx miles. Aint that cute. I have a 1997 5.7 tahoe with a million 250xxx all original. Nothing but fluid changes breaks and 2 fuel pumps and i pull a 30ft camper full time with her. Keep up the good maintenance my friend. It pays off.
soon as you said how the truck died while driving and that you had tried starter fluid to get it started and it didn't start, first thing that came to mind was the coil and sure enough that's what it was. didn't help that the distributor cap and rotor were so bad. I went to school to be a mechanic and did an engine swap on a car and it ran okay when it left the shop but after it had been driven by it's owner for a couple of hours it did the exact same thing and I wound up going over to where they were and diagnosing the problem and fixing it. it turned out to be the coil also. a very frustrating thing to go through especially since it was raining while I was trying to work on the car
Same thing happened to my 1500 5.0, I just changed the wires, cap and rotor, but it turned out that the Ignition module attached to the coil itself was the root of the issue. I had an extra module hanging around from a 1996 Impala SS, and just transferred the new one over to the known bad one. Runs like a top now!
Thanks for the video. Watched it because I was having the same issues with my 97' Suburban and when I removed the distributor cap and rotor it was identical to yours. Replaced the parts and it started right up.
Thanks pal!! Love my 98 4x4...! I take it to work and it sits for a month at a time.Last few times she would start, but run rough, backfiring and stumble, etc.Thought maybe condensation in my fuel.Replaced fuel filter and put in new fuel...still, it quit and wouldnt start.Finally got it home and im replacing coil, cap, rotor, module, etc.Im positive its ignition.Somewhere in there! HA! Pulled the cap and it was corroded and worn....heres to hoping! Thanks again!
Can't bitch bout a coil going out on truck with those kind of miles. Love my 98 Silverado! Well done!
More over guys when a truck hits that big 100K mark replace the ignition module in the Dist. In some cases it smooths out bad idling and other rough run issues. The 5.7 are prone to Air Idle switch issues at times on the Express vans along with the rough issues as well.
Are you referring to the Cam Shaft sensor in the distributor or the Ignition control module mounted on the plate with the ignition coil?
Great Video!! I just wished I would of seen this video 2 months ago when my truck left me stranded and I hadn’t replaced everything else.
I was having the same problem, thanks to your video I was able to diagnose my ignition coil was bad and able to save $400+ I didn't have to pay for a tow and repair... Thank you, thank you, thank you... Keep up the great videos!
I love how long an engine can run if it had proper oil changes its whole life.
1992 Silverado 258,000 miles running strong 💪 just tuned mine up
300k like new
A shop would have taken you to the cleaners to fix this, this is an extremely helpful video, thanx
I had these symptoms over the weekend and fixed my 1998 Chevy Tahoe. I would say that you should test the ignition coil for a spark first before you undo those bolts. I took it out before testing it and had to put it back in to test it and it had a nice spark so I knew it was probably the cap and rotor. I replaced those and if fired right up. Cap and rotor wasn't too bad.
Did yiu have a check engine light on? I have a p1351. It does start but it's a hard to start specially when it's super cold outside. Gotta crank it twice or more to start. I had the ignition module tested and it came back as bad so I installed a new one along with a new coil. I'm gonna have to check the cap and rotor. I might have to also test the starter. It might be starting to fail.
Also when replacing the coil pack it has two pins pressed in to hold it to the bracket instead of drilling I used two good punches and was able to punch the pins right out in one or two minutes instead of drilling it out. I spray it with PB Blaster or WD-40 and then start the punch and give it another quick spray half way through and the pins will just start to fall apart and it'll come right out of the bracket. I did have a drill ready if I needed it but the punch and a hammer did the trick. Just a tip to anyone looking for ways to get those "rivet pins" out. Good Luck.
My 99 Sub is acting like this. Why didn't I think of just sticking the coil in to check it? Sheesh. Well done! My rotor and cap had fuzz growing in it. Thanks for this man. I appreciate it.
Just a quick substitution on the suburban proved the coil had failed. Now I can fix it without wasting time. Thanks again, man!
I had spark, compression, and good fuel pressure. Still wouldn’t start. It was moisture in the distributor cap. I shot it with my heat gun for about 15 minutes and it fired right up.
😞 nothing worse than getting your Chevy drug home by a Ford.
When the Ford driver pulls up
Driver - hey need some help
Me - sure you got some tools
Driver - na but I can tow u to a close spot
Me - no thanks I don't want my Chevy to catch the Ford
@@lesliebowling5889 lol ford don't need tools cluttering the inside of the vehicle or outside carry along because you never know when it will shut down on you like this chevy
@@luisr3721 lol ahhhhhh the good old days when we could all pick on our vehicles and noone gets ass hurt now days to many crybabys
Ford is better then Chevy, y its bn the #1 seller for years...
Cancer chevy
Even good trucks will need these kinds of wear parts replaced as they get used, thankfully the worst part is when it dies on you or won't start.
On a Chevy Astro, if the car won't start on rainy days, run a ground wire from the coil body to a cast iron metal part or battery ground cable as ground. Put sealer under the distributor cap to seal it. Replace the cap and rotor and coil and module. Change the plug wires. Lift the distributor with the cap removed to check the distributor gear play.
Humidity is still the issue! I put a billet distributor and nothing but problems! Went back to oem and no problem!
dude thanks for the video i just did plugs and wires today and still the same I'm going to buy a coil tomorrow!
Did a new coil fix your problem? Did it throe any codes?
did the new coil work?
I have a 98 z71 extra cab with 194000, parked it when I got off work, the next morning it wouldn't start at all just would crank, took the box off tittle body sprayed some starter fluid and it started and cut back off, but I didn't hook the box back up when doing that so not having the maf sensor on could be why it cut back off, I know last week, 1 morning I was driving and my truck started to misfire bad, ima try and do a tune up when i get off today, I just replaced the fuel pump last year and I can hear it turn on and off so I'm ruling that out, my truck usually never has problems but she is 20 years old, I'll let you know if I have any luck..
Excellent video; thank you much for your time to put this together for those of us DIY. For sure this will help me find my 1999 Suburban problem that haven't find out as of yet...
I have the same problem, same truck... Mines just won't start when moisture is in the air.... I think maybe it's the coil also...I need to check rotor cap/rotor button. Could be a hairline crack I can't see... I spray Wire Dry on wires & components at times.... Good video !
My 99 Suburban just did the same only I was trying to park in a parking spot an the truck just died an I just did plugs wires cap an roter it ran fine then just died out so I'm hoping it's the same issue
In a time when GM built stuff that would last.
and last! I have 3 of these and they are coming up on 20 years old. They still run like sewing machines and the exterior and interiors have worn very well I might add. If parts are still available, maybe they will run another 20 years?
Taking good care of anything helps also.
wysetech2000 my 97 chevy 1500 have over 300k and runs so smooth
Yeah, they were good trucks.
i have 485880 on mine
Who manny cable do the positive line has and how many cable the native line to the battery ?
Looked like the rotor had a hole in the centre contact! Thought I saw light as you moved it around. Sure a new one didn’t hurt either!
Yes, it did. That goes all the way back to 1975 with V8 Chevy and GMC. The high resistance causes and big arch and eventually the cap gets a hole blown through it and the truck shuts off. Often the hole is much smaller and harder to detect. But that is/was the root cause. Good eye!!
I HAVE A 1998 GMC sierra SLT 1500. NEW FUEL PUMP .PROBLEM THATS HAPPING IS SHE START UP NICE IF IT'S COLD OR WARM OUT.AFTER DRIVING HER TO THE STORE AND SHE SIT FOR ABOUT 30MIN. SHE WILL NOT START WITH THE KEY,I ALWAYS HAVE TOO PUT MY FOOT ON THE PEDAL, FOR HER TOO START.130,000 MILES ,I replaced WIRE & PLUGS ONLY.AND FUEL PUMP. ALSO PUT A NEW STARTER IN HER.I REALLY LOST MY MIND ON THIS.can you give me some tips???
Ispent so much money on replacing all sensors under te hood on my 97 tahoe.Even replaced my fuel pump at a walmrt lot.But still wont start!So i guess im gonna have to give my rotor and cap,maybe shaft a look
Excellent video! Led me straight to my problem. Thanks!
Justin yes I did cap n rotor also did new wires n spark plugs .
Did this problem stay resolved??? I have a 98 chevy 1500 that refuses to start after rain. I have replaced all the plugs and wires, rotor and cap. Runs like a champ but has problems starting in the rain. Any help or advice is appreciated its becoming a serious issue.
It might be the purple wire on the neutral safety switch on the transmission mine is doing the same thing I just found it ordered both new plugs for 19.00 on Amazon it starts right up at the moment I'll put the new plugs on when they come Tuesday
Why wasn't the ignition control module changed in some cases its attached to the coil
My 98 will crank and start up with starter spray and run like a champ. It just won't crank over without the fluid. Thoughts?
Hi: What different about a 1997 Sierra HD 3500 7.4 if it does turnover at all?
Having ignition module tested also couldn't hurt. :-)
Wheres that on my 98 ?
@@clayholliman3724 on tbi’s its behind the injectors. Dont know with vortecs
My truck just did this same shit. 96 Chevy. Same exact problems. Ran perfect went to go home boom wouldn't start. Before it had a sluggish start hit the gas then it'd run good
i drive a 1997 Chevy Silverado miles gauge unfortunately has gone out on then that has a spirit that won't die
Is it Normal that the cap gets a smoky/wear film on the pins?? Could be an issue with the distributor it self??
My truck is all Original but makes a loud bang out the exhaust only on cold start, struggles to turn on then once it’s on it’s fine any ideas ?
So about how often do you have to do the coil replacement? Mine has 211,000 and I know I have to do the cap/rotor on my 98 K1500, and I wonder if it would be worth just throwing a new coil on her. I may do a full Spark Plug/Wire job as well on the next tuneup (last done at 186,000 when I bought her).
Also, did you end up getting a code about the spark advance out of spec? I can't remember the code off hand, but the last time I fiddled around with the cap/rotor, it threw that code and I had to play around with the placement of the rotor to put it back in spec to turn the check engine light off. I was curious to see if your truck threw that same one shortly after.
I never got a spark advance code, these caps and rotors are pretty stationary unless you mess with the base. As far as the cap, rotor, and coil on yours, I would just replace it all. $100 in preventative maintenance could save you from a breakdown in the middle of nowhere, I would say it's worth it.
Yo as a mechanic replacing wires and plugs out of replace the distributor cap and rotor and coil at 250,000 miles it would have been a done deal and I would have never had that problem but you might want to look at you fuel pump
Mine did the same exact thing at the dollar general and there was a I had went through 2 different coils because O’Reillys gave me bad one I finally just went to advanced auto and got a working one.
Thanks. I fixed mine with help for your video, except my was easier as I just took one off a parts truck and didnt have to mess with the rivets.
The basics.. Fuel, Fire, Air
Have you ever had a problem with moisture accumulating in the distributor cap / rotor?
Mine is doing the same thing. I might try the coil
my 98 gmc k1500 had a miss....total tuneup , coil, plugs, wires cap and rotor, maf, fuel filter , alternator etc.....helped but still a small miss then was driving 55 and it quit , crank no start ....it was the GROUND STRAP WIRE .....runs from back of engine block ( hard to get to ) held on by a nut , down thru a tube to the passenger side frame , it had broken into ...so I'm thinking when it was still attached but corroded that was causing my miss then it broke and fuel cut off
Same problem, I had people telling me it was the fuel pump but you could hear it when key was on aux churning, and cycle back when shut off ignition. Thanks! I'm no mechanic, but anyone can fix something if they 1. Know how it goes together, and most importantly what it's functions are, and 2. If they aren't fucking idiots and use the right tools for the job.
That's such a common failure idk why you would touch wired or plugs and not the cap or rotor 1st .... Again Gm and their fine designs
Listen to the video again. He didn't say he touched the plugs or wires. He said he already replaced them before the truck quit running. Hence he knew he didn't need to look at them.
I know this is an old video but I have the same truck and was just curious on things (big or little) you’d recommend just checking over and replacing I’m at 163,xxx miles
I have a 98 Chevy k1500 truck 4+4 5.7l v-8 and if I take the air intake off the vortech intake off it won’t run right would that mean I have a air leak somewhere ?? I’m confused because you took it off and it runs good if I take mine off and start it it will pop and run relly rough then die
It needs the intake because that has the mass air flow meter in it
SCUZZ CARTER alright thanks
My Chevy just crank no start it jus died on me the other day after I went round the block could u help me
How much did that coil run you. My truck is doing thr same thing.. replaced rotor and fuel pump and still nothing. Thinking i need a cap and coil
Did you get this truck in 1998?
Did it have spark??
Brings back memories of my step dad tuining up the lifters...
its strange he started the truck and torqued the lifters one at a time....
Im glad vehicles are all electric now
I hate vehicles having electronic controlled crap its hard for me to learn it sometimes.
yes but I hate the way the old stuff has to be done over and over just to get one job finished..
With electronic stuff you just swap it out reprogram and make your money
My 1997 is cranking but not starting, I replaced the cap and the rotor and replaced my spark plugs and spark wires, I’m not sure what’s stopping it from starting.
My 96 silverado starts for 1-2 secs then shuts off any Idea what could cause it to turn off? I already changed the Ignition coil, spark plugs and wires, distributor cap & rotor, crankshaft sensor, and fuel pump all AC Delco.
Did you replace the ICM too?
98 chevy Silverado security light stays on could that also be the case it just died and won't start
hi Daniel, i own a 1998 Chevy Cheyenne c1500 v8 5.0 and my symptoms are these and only these. my truck doesn't always start on the first key pull but will more often start on the 2nd key pull and almost always start on the 3rd key pull. what do you think it could be anyone have a guess please do let me know.
thanks in advance!!!
Ignition switch
What are the rotor, distributor cap and coil? What are their function
Why did you not check fuel relay or fuel pump pressure??
I have a 97 vortec and here lately it has lost its power and acceleration and missing and it's hard to start also once I get it running and drive it for a little and shut it off and try to start it it just turns over and I drove it home from work and next day went to go start it It will just turn over it will fire a couple times then die could it be distributor cap and rotor bad or possibly fuel pump or even both any help is appreciated
sometimes you can diagnose these pretty easily if it so happens that the coil pack is loose inside the square metal surround and or mounting bracket chances are its been vibrating for so long that internally it has failed , vibrations and electronics don't mix well and the little solder connections are brittle to begin with even if it has the resin coating on it still.
Easier to work on a 350 than the 454 nice to have the extra room
What would be the problem if I already changed all that, but the truck still won't start. Would it be the fuel pressure regulator?
A. Tboy did you ever find the problem. I replaced all and won't start
Seriously just fixed my distributor about 8 months ago and it just messed up again this morning.
what are your symptoms ?
I wish you had checked for spark first. I have a 99 denali that has spark but wont start. The spark seems a little weak. I don't want to buy a new coil if I don't need it. It has 60 lbs fuel pressure. any ideas?
Jim Gordon Get a Actron CP9690 code tester. It checks live, record, emissions test, oxygen sensor test, record, and MORE! It works from 1983-2013 and is updatable. EBAY has it.
please get back with me i changed my ignition coil my cap and rotor plugs and still no start any info
I just did a engine swap on my 95 sierra with a dealer 5.7 350 it cranks but doesnt start. Any suggestions
what cause a coil not to fire I bought a brand new coil still not fire. the check control module it good
Chesapeake lattice to small block not a big block they're a pain to work on because it's all sandwiched between the back of the intake in the firewall
I'm having the same problem with my 95 chevy z71. Timing chain is good, replaced distributor cap, rotor, and ignition control module, still turns but no start. Did you have any spark from the plugs before changing the coil? The mechanic says he got spark from a plug wire, but can the coil still be bad, Even with a spark? Need help plz.
Did u fix it
i’m having the same problems but when i put gas in the intake it’ll start and run fine could this be my problem
Lorenzo Rodriguez sounds like a fuel pump man
If it was the coils it wouldn’t start at all
right! Hallelujah 🤗💪🏾🙏🏾
I paid. 35.00 on Ebay....for my iginition coil....my vehicle wont start....can i get your help here...
I need help my truck quit running couple days ago I was driving and without warning my truck just shut off, I replaced the crank sensor and new timing chain. When I aligned the timing marks on the crank and cam gears my distributor was pointing toward the back fire wall. I have no idea how this could have happened. If anyone can think of something please let me know. Thank you
Once the chain wears a little it can jump timing because the chain stretched.
Fyi 98 1500 z71 silverado 4x4
210k miles same family since new. 3rd owner
Could it be the alternator if battery light on?
Yes. Normally it's the alternator when the battery light is on. At least in my experience it's been alternator. Always get it tested first.
Check your vortec dispenser for carbon build up
How can it start with all that air going inside carburetor wouldnt it bad it's called lean
rrrrrrrrrrrrrrust!
Still a good looking truck though!
I replaced my iginition coil and my chevy. Suburban wont start....WHY....
Awesome video thanks
ignition module.....
Ignition Module......IGNITION MODULE!!!!....oh...coil. :-• :-D
my 96 silverado had a bad no start condition where you would crank and crank and crank and it would occasionally pop after cranking, like "crank, stop......pop.......pop.......pop. " what could that be?
Sounds like a new hit single. "CRANK, STOP........ POP POP POP!!"
Did you ever find the problem because my truck is doing the samething
my 00 escalade cranks but wont start n has no spark i try the ignition coil n does the same with new one can it be the icm sensor? or any guess ?
Same problem did u get it fixed
how to set distributor back in a 1997 gmc 1500 i dont mark before i taken it out
To set your distributor back in take motor top dead center on piston number one and make sure your timing point is on zero put distributor in some times it is easier with two people someone pushing on distributor someone taps the key and distributor will fall into place but make sure the tab on bug is facing number one cylinder
305 V 8 eng. Cranks real slow don't spins to slow to fire hot spark hi compressing 120 pressing new starter new wires took spark plug out to see if cranks faster but did not? Why is there something wrong in side of eng. HELP!
Hmm....i could use some advice..
i have that same pickup (even the same color).
it died on me in the middle of the road.....i changed the cap and rotor...still crank no start.,.
i checked fuel pressure....64-65 psi at key on...
i checked the injectors by using a snapon computer and pulsing each injector individually......each injector pulsed and sounded fine...(still no start).
i used my timing light and checked for spark to each cyl....all good to the plug...plugs new(still no start)
i disconnected the MAF sensor to send it into "limp home mode" in case it was the MAF......no change...
i dont get it...im running out of ideas and money to throw at it....and im in deep trouble without it as it gets close to bad weather seasons.....any advice would help greatly...
Timing chain?
@@gilligan106 i just figured it out.....it was a weird fuel pump issue...had pressure but no volume.....
@@discoveryman I wonder if that could be my problem also. Thanks for letting me know.
@@gilligan106 i hope you get it all figured out...
let me know if it solves your issue also....
it stumped me and my mechanic for a bit untill i figured that out.
@@discoveryman It was my distributor. The gear on the bottom had worn out, and would intermittently work. Now that I've changed it out. It starts, but I need to time it, and its raining on my day off. 🤯
I'm 42 years old and I got tired of buying cars really fast I went back to buying these old trucks they really reliable Motors and the parts are very cheap at any Auto Parts if you go to these TH-cam videos you'll find out that all the parts and all the problems are mostly the same try putting on new parts on these cars every now and then and these motors will run great...
Oil change often
Parts cannon.
its like a rock seriously!
Great video
It did help me fixe mine