Thanks for the video. I just removed the carb. from a Troy-Built with a BS 17.5HP 5002VV family engine. As I was sitting there in the pole barn think I should be video taping what I am doing so I could put it back with out a cup of screws left over! So Thank You very much for the insurance video.
Good video for those still using gasoline for fuel. I had my 17.5 hp Briggs Intek engine professionally converted over to propane. Best thing I ever did for my mower which is an eleven year old Yard Machine 42 inch cut. I have about 68 hours on the engine running on propane and the engine looks like new because propane leaves no residue of any kind on the motor or any other place. Starts and runs very well. No more gas for me!!
I used an outfit called Carb-Turbo in Minnesota and with the propane regulator, hoses and the adapterfor the inlet for the propane it was around $150.00. Then I had to mount the 20 lb propane tank on the back of mower. So they just happened to have a heavy duty bracket that fits the 20 or 30 lb tanks and is awesome and cost an additional $80.00 and worth every penny. Easy to adapt to the mower using a couple of angle iron sections. My mower had the holes already stamped in the frame between the rear wheels. If you google Carb-Turbo you will find it easily. These guys really know their stuff about conversions of all types and sizes of engines. Propane regulators for engines are rated by horse power. I used a Garretson T-60 rated for up to 40 horse power and seems to be a good choice.If you decide to convert to propane you will ask yourself, like I did, what took me so long. It is a no brainer as far as I am concerned.I had a mobile mower repair man come out to the house to replace all three belts that were 10 years old and starting to slip a lot. So after he got the belts on he had to test drive the mower. When I heard the mower running I went out to look. When he shut the mower off he said that was the coolest thing ever; his first propane powered mower he had worked on. He gave it a thumbs up.
Thanks - That little choke lever I think is my prob but I can see how it goes now - Thanks, excellent vid well explained. Love the Rooster (but then I don't live next door haha)
Very nice video, thanks a lot. This seems to be the same Carb that's on my John Deere D100. It's been running rough, and I'm not a Carburetor guy, so this video was exactly what I was needing. Much appreciated.
Excellent! Thank You. I just bought a used Craftsman and need to do this repair I believe. I feel confident to try the repair myself. Again, Thank You. I will look for spark plug and other repairs.
@ 7:28 I have that same B&S tool, but it's not very strong; I've bent it on the first use trying to remove an emulsification tube. Best find or make a special screwdriver that barely fits this bore, but will be stronger. I also have a #2 flat blade screwdriver bit, a long one, that i use with a 1/4" nutdriver, that works well. You just don't want to scrape away at the sides of the bore if you can avoid it. Keep the B&S tool for lighter work or reassembly torque.
P.S. Thanks for the video I've done most of my own mechanic work since I was 14 but certain things I'm not real comfortable doing but with the newest social situations I realize I need to tackle those problems as well
@@JeffsLittleEngineService Worked like a charm, mine wouldn't start at all. Once cleaned it fired up & runs. I'm not sure if i have to adjust the little screws or not as it runs a little juddery sometimes. But getting it started is a great achievement, thankyou :-)
Thank you very much for sharing the information with us. I have problem with my ride mower but I did not where to seek for help. Sears they now closed. No where I can find help. You di help and I really appreciate. Again, thank you.
This video is very clear instructions & l appreciate the effort you put into making it! Do you have a video that is as clear for taking apart & putting back together the fuel lines? TKS Judie
Hi Jeff from Belgium, nice video, thank you a lot! I've also this carb mounted on a briggs 20hp. Any idea for the replacing parts references? I'm looking for the bowl gasket ref and the jet reference, but i don't find them... :-/ Thank you in advance for your help 🙂
@ 10:13 Jeff, what's your feeling on checking the float height on these plastic floats? I know they're supposedly "non-adjustable", but I have heard of people heating them up at the tang and bending it to adjust the float height. I'm guessing if you've decided to change a float, then you've nothing to lose by trying...
Hi Jeff I have a 17.5 Briggs and Stratton engine on Ariens rider. It will sputter and smoke for about 2 or 3 minutes then dies out. I have changed the air filter, gas and gas filter. That piece on the solenoid that you were pushing on does not move a freely on mines. Would that cause my rider to act like that or the carburetor.
I've also found running a little bit of seafoam in every 2nd or 3rd tank of gas in any of my 2 cycle and 4 cycle Engines keeps them running right with a lot less cleaning of Carburetors And the entire fuel Systems
I’m working on the same setup. But my problem is I’m working on trying to get the nozzle out. The the top of the nozzle I can’t turn it Out because who ever worked on it chewed the end where you stick the screw driver in , chewed up. What can I do to turn it out? Great video by the way!
i noticed at the end of the video that you left the pcv hose off the carburetor? im having trouble keeping my briggs engine running. (it starts, but dies quickly). i havent tried leaving off that hose. will that make a difference? also i must note that my briggs does not have a fuel pump. (16.5 hp) i have a coil on the way.. but im not sure that is the problem because i bench tested it and it passed.. soo?? im at a standstill. I have already cleaned the carburetor thoroughly. and I have already spark tested with the old coil and there was a orange-ish colored spark..which made me think it is a weak ignition coil? is that possible? anyone who can give me some tips, I appreciate.
Hello,Jeff How are you? Are Briggs & Stratton Intek Engines Commercial Duty which is the Better Engine the Older Inteks or the New Intek Engines? Mine has the Cast Iron Sleeve Model # 311777 Type 0143-E1 Code 000613ZD.
@@JeffsLittleEngineService That's understandable Jeff Yes the Briggs & Stratton Engineers are Very Good About Updating Engine Problems with New Updated Versions of Engines. I Just Lost my Briggs & Stratton Opposed Twin Engine 16 Horsepower the Tractor was my Dad's the Starter was Bad & I Couldn't find the Parts to Rebuild the 42" Mower Deck so I got rid of the MTD Lawn Tractor. I Traded it for a John Deere Sabre Lawn Tractor With Single Cylinder Briggs Intek Engine. 19 Years Old Approximately the MTD Tractor was a 600 Series 23 Years Old from HQ Home Quarters Warehouse. My Current Tractor came from Weingartz.
You removed the 2 back bolts in the back on the red cover, but its already off the 2 posts in the front. How did you pop it off those 2 posts? I can't get it to budge off them.
can the solenoid cause it by chance just to cut off while in use 18.5 intek ohv briggs and stratton it runs fine carb has been cleaned and all runs great no surging at idle or anything it just cuts off at times like its run out of fuel but its over a half a tank , on restart it fires bk up but takes a minute before i can idle it up using the throttle lever it want just take the fuel it will cut off when I idle it up
Jeff, I have a john deere L108 with a 18.5 hp Briggs and Stratton Intek. It runs till it gets hot and now shuts off, it will restart without a problem but will only run for a minute and shut off again. Have to let it cool before being able to stay running. Probably needs carb rebuilt but could it also be the fuel shut off valve or even the ignition coil?
I have always wondered about heating the whole to expand the metal. Doesn't that technically make the hole smaller. You're expanding the metal smaller hole. Seems to work but I've always wondered about the physics of it. I don't think we're making the hole larger with heat. I think softening the metal is what's happening. Because physically cheat would make the hole smaller
The hole expands because heating it makes the walls 'longer' as the atoms 'move against' each other and 'push'. Same principle as a wagon wheel rim, or heating the ring gear on an auto. As it cools it 'shrinks' and forms a tight mechanical bond.
I bought a brand new carburetor but a lot gas flows into the carburetor. When the lawn mower turns off a lot of gas is sitting the carburetor where the cover sits. What could be the problem?
I do not have gas flowing into the carburetor. I added a fuel shut-off, fuel filter and line but the carburetor is dry with no gas. Any suggestions?? Thanks
Ethanol eats BRASS and Cast metal. Rots plastics. New fuel is crap. The best tip I ever got with using new fuels is to Run 2 Stroke fuel/oil before you store it away. In the old days you just ran the engine out of fuel and you were good to go. Not anymore. Fumes will eat brass.
My mower is like the one your working on here. Mine will only start if I pour a little gas in the carburetor but dies again in just a few seconds . what's your thoughts
I just got one of these mowers used for like ~$200, it is a 17.5 HP but needs a lot of work, I hooked a battery to it (checket to make sure they were connected right) and tried to start it, nothing worked (or it could be the jumper cables I used)
Jeff, I have a 2005 troy bilt pony with a 17.5 Briggs engine. Last time I mowed, as I was finishing up, the engine started running wide open hard. The only way I could slow it down was to choke it down. Do you know what is causing this and a video that may help me fix this. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
@Jeff's Little Engine Service - would like to start by re juvenate of old vid with a bump up. Next, I focus on this vid because of engine. Which you know and is exact engine I have on a rider. Although my issue differs alot. I have spent years on my issue in looking and got no place. I have posted to YT and many groups and oddly I get nothing. I am here to ask for input and thoughts on all please. This is a bit long and that is due to respect to all that see. Vs saying my mower is this issue and nothing else to go by. Mower info is- Yard Machines 2008. # 13RN772GO29. Not PTO electric. Engine- Briggs I/C 17.5hp. Issue- stalls and attempts to die with blades ON *AFTER* clutch/brake pressed. That is ONLY when I touch or press pedal down. Keep pedal down and it will kill in few sec. Attempts to kill and at time in doing it backfires etc and bog power down till kill unless release pedal. History of mower- Brought used few years ago. New carb from Briggs direct. New gas line, spark plug, filters and tires. New blades, bearings and so on deck wise. All new MTD orig belts. 91 oct- no eth gas is all I use. Mower looks new enough and taken care of now. Haul done by me on parts etc. All wires look new and not hacked up in black tube etc. Motor pretty much shines and not beat to hell. Connects cleaned with DeoxIT and prongs look new. Mods done- I removed the wire to switch for reverse when blades on. I did this at day one when got mower. No issue there on that subject. Here is what took place when I brought after my haul. I ran mower for two years and not one issue. Ran smooth and great while mowing. Other summer I was mowing and the issue started. Now is a new year and mowed twice with same issue. Looking like ass to everyone as my mower stalls in forward or rev when mowing. So last week I thought maybe the brake/clutch switch under pedal. I ordered a Rotary and replaced. Same issue after and not solved. Any input where to look? Also would a coil cause any of the stuff I said? Even when mower runs smooth cutting long as pedal is not touched... Thanks for the look as I cont to mow looking like ass lol. ISSUE- mower wants to stall and kill when brake/clutch is touched or pressed. ONLY with blades on. Blades OFF and runs great when use of pedal. Switch replaced with new Rotary under pedal. Issue still same. Side note- Oddly I inspected and see no wires or the like to ground anything out. Least to my view. I have not been under engine hood though since day one to clean wheel and coil.
It Seems since methanol was added to gasoline the White residue attacks every type of Carburetor On lawn and garden equipment and it keeps me busy cleaning Main jets, fuel bowls, floats and the fuel needle and seats. On 2 cycle Engines like Weedeaters And blowers the diaphragms are always crystalizing Because of methanol drying out the rubber o-ring and other parts... Now I find it much less aggravating to buy a complete Carburetor off Ebay or Amazon and put them on whatever lawn and garden equipment that's having Carburetor Issues Because they are so many different sellers having endless Amounts of them available and with free shipping makes it easier to deal with and get back to working with the Machines
Hi, could someone please tell me what the adjustment would be on the jet on this exact kind of carburetor ? how many turns counterclockwise would I have to set it at ? only difference is my engine is a 15.5 HP ohv instead of a 16.5 like in the video. Any help much appreciated !
My float valve is stuck tight closed and I can't remove the FLOAT. How can I get the float valve needle to come off it's seat without destroying the float. Ran great last year. Yes I did remove the float axle. CMV
Jeff, i have the same Engine. It starts up great it idols Low great. when i bump up the throttle it starts to loop. almost dies and comes back up and back down up and back down! I changed the Fuel filter I changed the fuel pump. i puled the Solenoid down it seems to work fine I am thinking i need a rebuild or a cleaning which do you suggest?
Mi CRAFTSMAN RIDEMOWER WAS IN THE GARAGE FOR 2 YEARS BECAUSE BROKEN LEFT FRONT IN SUSPENCIÓN I REPLACED AND WHEN PUT GASOLINE IN THE DEPOSIT FOR GAS START LEAK GAS FROM SOLENOID.
Not really then because you still have to take the carb apart when it's off the engine. That's 4 separate times that you don't have to twist extra bolts on or off. So by taking it apart on the engine saves energy and probably time. Depending on the person.
I love that u give the sockets sizes. I was done in 10 minutes. Usually for me, finding the right tools takes longer then the repair.
💯
Purrs like a kitten. I love working on old cars and small engines that don't have computer systems to figure out. It's very calming. Nice job.
Thanks.. I couldnt see the flat spot on the solenoid but I saw how you did it and got the job done. Tractor runs great now after sitting for 4 years.
Thanks for the video. I just removed the carb. from a Troy-Built with a BS 17.5HP 5002VV family engine. As I was sitting there in the pole barn think I should be video taping what I am doing so I could put it back with out a cup of screws left over! So Thank You very much for the insurance video.
Good video for those still using gasoline for fuel. I had my 17.5 hp Briggs Intek engine professionally converted over to propane. Best thing I ever did for my mower which is an eleven year old Yard Machine 42 inch cut. I have about 68 hours on the engine running on propane and the engine looks like new because propane leaves no residue of any kind on the motor or any other place. Starts and runs very well. No more gas for me!!
Cool!! I will have to look into how to do that,. What was the cost to do that? Thanks for the comment.
I used an outfit called Carb-Turbo in Minnesota and with the propane regulator, hoses and the adapterfor the inlet for the propane it was around $150.00. Then I had to mount the 20 lb propane tank on the back of mower. So they just happened to have a heavy duty bracket that fits the 20 or 30 lb tanks and is awesome and cost an additional $80.00 and worth every penny. Easy to adapt to the mower using a couple of angle iron sections. My mower had the holes already stamped in the frame between the rear wheels. If you google Carb-Turbo you will find it easily. These guys really know their stuff about conversions of all types and sizes of engines. Propane regulators for engines are rated by horse power. I used a Garretson T-60 rated for up to 40 horse power and seems to be a good choice.If you decide to convert to propane you will ask yourself, like I did, what took me so long. It is a no brainer as far as I am concerned.I had a mobile mower repair man come out to the house to replace all three belts that were 10 years old and starting to slip a lot. So after he got the belts on he had to test drive the mower. When I heard the mower running I went out to look. When he shut the mower off he said that was the coolest thing ever; his first propane powered mower he had worked on. He gave it a thumbs up.
The only video I could find that was same kind I've got thank you
Thanks - That little choke lever I think is my prob but I can see how it goes now - Thanks, excellent vid well explained. Love the Rooster (but then I don't live next door haha)
Glad it helped
Great video, thanks for taking the time to make it!
i am new to doing my own repairs and this video was perfect, thank you.
Very nice video, thanks a lot. This seems to be the same Carb that's on my John Deere D100. It's been running rough, and I'm not a Carburetor guy, so this video was exactly what I was needing. Much appreciated.
EXCELLENT camera and lighting !!
one of the best explanations of how to repair, a carburetor ...Thank you
Excellent! Thank You. I just bought a used Craftsman and need to do this repair I believe. I feel confident to try the repair myself. Again, Thank You. I will look for spark plug and other repairs.
Thanks for the tip on the fuel inlet fitting I have to replace 2 of those.
No problem 👍
Super terrific tutorial ! Thank you for taking time to post it !
Good video! Have two of these engines and only knew about half of what you showed. Thanks!
@ 7:28
I have that same B&S tool, but it's not very strong; I've bent it on the first use trying to remove an emulsification tube. Best find or make a special screwdriver that barely fits this bore, but will be stronger. I also have a #2 flat blade screwdriver bit, a long one, that i use with a 1/4" nutdriver, that works well. You just don't want to scrape away at the sides of the bore if you can avoid it.
Keep the B&S tool for lighter work or reassembly torque.
You could use a torch tip cleaning tool for cleaning of the small holes, as the torch tip tool has different diameter rods that are file like .
P.S. Thanks for the video I've done most of my own mechanic work since I was 14 but certain things I'm not real comfortable doing but with the newest social situations I realize I need to tackle those problems as well
Great video, i have exactly the same job to do tomorrow & thanks to you it will be a lot easier for me :-)
You can do it!
@@JeffsLittleEngineService Worked like a charm, mine wouldn't start at all. Once cleaned it fired up & runs. I'm not sure if i have to adjust the little screws or not as it runs a little juddery sometimes. But getting it started is a great achievement, thankyou :-)
Thank you very much for sharing the information with us. I have problem with my ride mower but I did not where to seek for help. Sears they now closed. No where I can find help. You di help and I really appreciate. Again, thank you.
Glad to help, thanks for watching
It's called an Anti-Backfire valve. The white powder on the float is reside from Ethanol in the fuel. Great video !
thanks. this just happens to be my exact engine and mine has carb. problems. thanks for posting!!
mopar penetrateing fluid is the best thing for letting carb parts , jets etc .. to soak in , it will blow yer mind how it cleans everything .
great tip! I will try it
So they make a Walbro carb to fit the intek. I have the cheap junky Nikki and its shot. Where can I find a Walbro replacement carburetor?
Great video...easy step by step video...
thank you!
Thank You for the great video and information. Again Thank You.
thanks friend
O
That tube you cleaned is called an emulsion tube, the brass one with all the little holes in it
This video is very clear instructions & l appreciate the effort you put into making it! Do you have a video that is as clear for taking apart & putting back together the fuel lines? TKS Judie
Thank you for the video and explanation.
your are welcome! thanks for watching
What bore are the jets? I'm wanting to put more bored out jets in mine.
Sorry I do not know.
Hi Jeff from Belgium, nice video, thank you a lot! I've also this carb mounted on a briggs 20hp. Any idea for the replacing parts references? I'm looking for the bowl gasket ref and the jet reference, but i don't find them... :-/ Thank you in advance for your help 🙂
beautiful and helpful video!! thanks.
Thanks!
What's the part# for the carburetor and overhaul kit?
Thanks
Chuck
Great, I going to make my carburator repair. Thanks a lot.
is that thingy on the bottom of the fuel bowl an injector ? @ 3:48
No it is an anti backfire solenoid. It shuts off fuel delivery immediately when key is turned off.
Hey Jeff, is this necessary to have connected for this engine?
Need to know about the air intake hose,replacing and part number
Very nice video.
Thank you for watching
What it that torch you are using to heat the carb body?
@ 10:13
Jeff, what's your feeling on checking the float height on these plastic floats? I know they're supposedly "non-adjustable", but I have heard of people heating them up at the tang and bending it to adjust the float height. I'm guessing if you've decided to change a float, then you've nothing to lose by trying...
If the float has a metal tang on it it can be adjusted.
I didn't see you put a new gasket on the carburetor?
sometimes I can reuse the gasket
Great video
What is the part number for the bowl gasket?
Thanks for all the detailed info! Perfect video, Subscribed!!
The tool u was using for removing the solenoid was 1/2'. Did u make that???
yes
Thank you can I by pass the electric fuel pump on my 13.5
yes, as long as the fuel tank is higher than the carburetor.
Hi Jeff I have a 17.5 Briggs and Stratton engine on Ariens rider. It will sputter and smoke for about 2 or 3 minutes then dies out. I have changed the air filter, gas and gas filter. That piece on the solenoid that you were pushing on does not move a freely on mines. Would that cause my rider to act like that or the carburetor.
yes
I have always had problems removing the carburetors because of the linkages and then the governor don't run right and I am very easy on it
What size bolts fit the studs for where you attach the air intake to the carb?
I've also found running a little bit of seafoam in every 2nd or 3rd tank of gas in any of my 2 cycle and 4 cycle Engines keeps them running right with a lot less cleaning of Carburetors And the entire fuel Systems
I use premium fuel, no ethanol, then there are no issues with corrosion.
@@bobsoft where I live we don't have any non-ethanol fuel, they like those extra taxes too much
That looks like a nice little torch to use on small parts. What is it I might want to get one.
Thanks my question is this. What brings the gas to the carb. Is it gravity fed or some kind of fuel pump I am not seeing.
gravity fed on this one.
I’m working on the same setup. But my problem is I’m working on trying to get the nozzle out. The the top of the nozzle I can’t turn it Out because who ever worked on it chewed the end where you stick the screw driver in , chewed up. What can I do to turn it out? Great video by the way!
I redid mine, but now it only runs on high idle only. It dies if I take the choke off.
carb is still plugged and it sounds like the carburetor slow speed/pilot jets/passages
Does this use a separate fuel pump apart from vacuum from the carburetor?
some do some dont it depends on where fuel tank is mounted. This one does not have one.
i noticed at the end of the video that you left the pcv hose off the carburetor? im having trouble keeping my briggs engine running. (it starts, but dies quickly). i havent tried leaving off that hose. will that make a difference? also i must note that my briggs does not have a fuel pump. (16.5 hp) i have a coil on the way.. but im not sure that is the problem because i bench tested it and it passed.. soo?? im at a standstill. I have already cleaned the carburetor thoroughly. and I have already spark tested with the old coil and there was a orange-ish colored spark..which made me think it is a weak ignition coil? is that possible? anyone who can give me some tips, I appreciate.
No the breather line attatchment will not make a difference. It kinda sounds like a fuel delivery problem...seems that you have spark ok.
I’m looking for another 18 hp B&S motor . Mine blew. 02 lt1000. You have a spare 1
sorry no
Jeff's Little Engine Service do you know who or where I could call ?
Jeff, I have same engine 18.5 B&S. I replaced the carborator and engine valve gasket and it is still smoking really bad. What should I try next?
Jeff, Great video. What was the part number on the Briggs and Stratton jet screwdriver tool? Amazon has two 19061 and 19062. Is there a difference?
Sorry, I cannot remember for certain but the 19061 looks like the one
Thank you
I know I'm 6 years late in asking this, but what was the issue with the carb in the first place? Thanks!
I cannot remember, probably was not starting or not running correctly or needed the choke on to run.
Hello,Jeff How are you? Are Briggs & Stratton Intek Engines Commercial Duty which is the Better Engine the Older Inteks or the New Intek Engines? Mine has the Cast Iron Sleeve Model # 311777 Type 0143-E1 Code 000613ZD.
Not sure but probably the updated newer version. The Briggs and Stratton engineers are very good at updating common problems on their engines.
@@JeffsLittleEngineService That's understandable Jeff Yes the Briggs & Stratton Engineers are Very Good About Updating Engine Problems with New Updated Versions of Engines. I Just Lost my Briggs & Stratton Opposed Twin Engine 16 Horsepower the Tractor was my Dad's the Starter was Bad & I Couldn't find the Parts to Rebuild the 42" Mower Deck so I got rid of the MTD Lawn Tractor. I Traded it for a John Deere Sabre Lawn Tractor With Single Cylinder Briggs Intek Engine. 19 Years Old Approximately the MTD Tractor was a 600 Series 23 Years Old from HQ Home Quarters Warehouse. My Current Tractor came from Weingartz.
You removed the 2 back bolts in the back on the red cover, but its already off the 2 posts in the front. How did you pop it off those 2 posts? I can't get it to budge off them.
take out the bolts the cover will lift right off
Sweet. Tyvm
can the solenoid cause it by chance just to cut off while in use 18.5 intek ohv briggs and stratton it runs fine carb has been cleaned and all runs great no surging at idle or anything it just cuts off at times like its run out of fuel but its over a half a tank , on restart it fires bk up but takes a minute before i can idle it up using the throttle lever it want just take the fuel it will cut off when I idle it up
Do you know the part number for this I need the fuel filter replaced also ?
I'm having the same issue with my B&S 15.5 hp engine. What was the site you used to get the specs. The video didn't pan up all of the way. Thanks
Jeff, I have a john deere L108 with a 18.5 hp Briggs and Stratton Intek. It runs till it gets hot and now shuts off, it will restart without a problem but will only run for a minute and shut off again. Have to let it cool before being able to stay running. Probably needs carb rebuilt but could it also be the fuel shut off valve or even the ignition coil?
most likely the fuel system needs cleaning. sounds like the carb is getting plugged up.
is that a walbro carb or a nikki six
never mind
funny he did this on an MTD wizard with a 16.5 briggs... THAT'S EXACTLY WHAT I'M WORKING ON!!! LOL! it's a little older though
Snapper e1 11.5 briggs
I have always wondered about heating the whole to expand the metal.
Doesn't that technically make the hole smaller. You're expanding the metal smaller hole. Seems to work but I've always wondered about the physics of it. I don't think we're making the hole larger with heat. I think softening the metal is what's happening. Because physically cheat would make the hole smaller
The hole expands because heating it makes the walls 'longer' as the atoms 'move against' each other and 'push'. Same principle as a wagon wheel rim, or heating the ring gear on an auto. As it cools it 'shrinks' and forms a tight mechanical bond.
I am having a throttle problem. The governor arm is doing nothing when I try to go slower/faster. Can you help me with this?
I bought a brand new carburetor but a lot gas flows into the carburetor. When the lawn mower turns off a lot of gas is sitting the carburetor where the cover sits. What could be the problem?
it sounds like the carburetor is flooding. It is a good idea to clean the gas tank to make sure no sediment can get into the carburetor.
Thank you! I changed the old and filter and adjusted the oxygen and gas needle valve thanks!! Subscribed already!!
I do not have gas flowing into the carburetor. I added a fuel shut-off, fuel filter and line but the carburetor is dry with no gas. Any suggestions?? Thanks
Does it have that solenoid at the bottom? That may not be opening to allow fuel to flow. You can test with a 9 volt battery.
Ethanol eats BRASS and Cast metal. Rots plastics. New fuel is crap.
The best tip I ever got with using new fuels is to Run 2 Stroke fuel/oil before you store it away.
In the old days you just ran the engine out of fuel and you were good to go. Not anymore. Fumes will eat brass.
hea great vid.where in hell did you find a rebuild kit thx bud
My mower is like the one your working on here. Mine will only start if I pour a little gas in the carburetor but dies again in just a few seconds . what's your thoughts
it needs the carburetor and fuel system cleaned
Do you have a video that shows how to do both
I just got one of these mowers used for like ~$200, it is a 17.5 HP but needs a lot of work, I hooked a battery to it (checket to make sure they were connected right) and tried to start it, nothing worked (or it could be the jumper cables I used)
does anyone know the part # to that breather hose or where to get a new one? i'm having a hard time finding one let alone making one
Jeff, I have a 2005 troy bilt pony with a 17.5 Briggs engine. Last time I mowed, as I was finishing up, the engine started running wide open hard. The only way I could slow it down was to choke it down. Do you know what is causing this and a video that may help me fix this. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
not sure check throttle linkage. otherwise it may be the internal govenor mechanism
Hey Jeff why not just replace the carburetor? They only cost $18.00 to $20.00 on e-bay and they are new, not rebuilt! But great video!
@Jeff's Little Engine Service - would like to start by re juvenate of old vid with a bump up. Next, I focus on this vid because of engine. Which you know and is exact engine I have on a rider. Although my issue differs alot. I have spent years on my issue in looking and got no place. I have posted to YT and many groups and oddly I get nothing. I am here to ask for input and thoughts on all please. This is a bit long and that is due to respect to all that see. Vs saying my mower is this issue and nothing else to go by. Mower info is- Yard Machines 2008. # 13RN772GO29. Not PTO electric. Engine- Briggs I/C 17.5hp. Issue- stalls and attempts to die with blades ON *AFTER* clutch/brake pressed. That is ONLY when I touch or press pedal down. Keep pedal down and it will kill in few sec. Attempts to kill and at time in doing it backfires etc and bog power down till kill unless release pedal. History of mower- Brought used few years ago. New carb from Briggs direct. New gas line, spark plug, filters and tires. New blades, bearings and so on deck wise. All new MTD orig belts. 91 oct- no eth gas is all I use. Mower looks new enough and taken care of now. Haul done by me on parts etc. All wires look new and not hacked up in black tube etc. Motor pretty much shines and not beat to hell. Connects cleaned with DeoxIT and prongs look new. Mods done- I removed the wire to switch for reverse when blades on. I did this at day one when got mower. No issue there on that subject. Here is what took place when I brought after my haul. I ran mower for two years and not one issue. Ran smooth and great while mowing. Other summer I was mowing and the issue started. Now is a new year and mowed twice with same issue. Looking like ass to everyone as my mower stalls in forward or rev when mowing. So last week I thought maybe the brake/clutch switch under pedal. I ordered a Rotary and replaced. Same issue after and not solved. Any input where to look? Also would a coil cause any of the stuff I said? Even when mower runs smooth cutting long as pedal is not touched... Thanks for the look as I cont to mow looking like ass lol. ISSUE- mower wants to stall and kill when brake/clutch is touched or pressed. ONLY with blades on. Blades OFF and runs great when use of pedal. Switch replaced with new Rotary under pedal. Issue still same. Side note- Oddly I inspected and see no wires or the like to ground anything out. Least to my view. I have not been under engine hood though since day one to clean wheel and coil.
BTW folks. 8mm & 5/16" sockets are pretty close to interchangeable.
I have the same engine and the flywheel is stripped but it still starts could that make it off balance when it’s running?
yes, If you mean the flywheel key is broken
Ok thanks
good job
Someone tell me ,what is a float valve.
the little rocket looking component that attaches to the float
It Seems since methanol was added to gasoline the White residue attacks every type of Carburetor On lawn and garden equipment and it keeps me busy cleaning Main jets, fuel bowls, floats and the fuel needle and seats. On 2 cycle Engines like Weedeaters And blowers the diaphragms are always crystalizing Because of methanol drying out the rubber o-ring and other parts... Now I find it much less aggravating to buy a complete Carburetor off Ebay or Amazon and put them on whatever lawn and garden equipment that's having Carburetor Issues Because they are so many different sellers having endless Amounts of them available and with free shipping makes it easier to deal with and get back to working with the Machines
Awesome thanks
can you give us the part# for the carburetor and overhaul kit? thanks
Hi, could someone please tell me what the adjustment would be on the jet on this exact kind of carburetor ? how many turns counterclockwise would I have to set it at ? only difference is my engine is a 15.5 HP ohv instead of a 16.5 like in the video. Any help much appreciated !
preliminary adjustment is 1 1/2 turns out after finger tightening it.
My float valve is stuck tight closed and I can't remove the FLOAT. How can I get the float valve needle to come off it's seat without destroying the float. Ran great last year. Yes I did remove the float axle.
CMV
It's stuck so the needle valve is most likely ruined. A new float is fairly inexpensive, maybe spray some carb. cleaner in there to try and loosen it.
I have an 18 h.p.. How do I set the RPM to 3600.?
Right now it's running wide open at 4200 RPM, and lost lever control function.
Is this the Nikki or Walbro?
walbro
Thanks for the info and I know how it feels to have chickens attack you while you work 😂
haha!
I have that same engine and need a carb but have no numbers on my Engine anyone know what model this is need the help
Why didnt you clean the rest or the carbuetor. You left a lot of passages untouched
didn't need it and I am lazy
Jeff, i have the same Engine. It starts up great it idols Low great. when i bump up the throttle it starts to loop. almost dies and comes back up and back down up and back down! I changed the Fuel filter I changed the fuel pump. i puled the Solenoid down it seems to work fine I am thinking i need a rebuild or a cleaning which do you suggest?
sounds like and obstruction inside the carburetor. Check that the main jet and all tiny nozzle holes are clear
Спасибо!!!
Good Video
thanks KB!
Mi CRAFTSMAN RIDEMOWER WAS IN THE GARAGE FOR 2 YEARS BECAUSE BROKEN LEFT FRONT IN SUSPENCIÓN I REPLACED AND WHEN PUT GASOLINE IN THE DEPOSIT FOR GAS START LEAK GAS FROM SOLENOID.
sounds like the carburetor is flooding
It’s easier to just remove the two screws at the intake where it connected to the engine
Not really then because you still have to take the carb apart when it's off the engine. That's 4 separate times that you don't have to twist extra bolts on or off. So by taking it apart on the engine saves energy and probably time. Depending on the person.
Where do you buy the fuel bowl gasket? Thanks
You replaced the needle on the float but not the seat.... Both wear. And you didn't check the float level..... C+ video...
yes replacing the brass seat is necessary sometimes. It is a non adjustable float. Thank you for the passing grade. :)