Thanks for watching Brett👍 I’ve found that a large number of people who enjoy these videos don’t have printers yet. I don’t want to come across like a commercial but I do enjoy sharing my experiments.
Another awesome video James, I love Andrey Bezrodny files and print a lot of his cars, he's 1 of the best on the internet if you ask me, superb job, I've been printing for a year now and still learning, as theres lots 😂 but its fun, failed prints end up in the wrecking yard, or for crashed car Dioramas or cut up for parts, enjoy your weekend Cheers 🍻 KC 🇦🇺🦘🪃🏔🤝🇺🇸🗽
I totally agree, Andrey has the largest amount of my hard drive filled up. I have found a few other guys making great files. Stay tuned, I’ll showcase them to you all. Take care Aussie bud👍
Hi James, happy you posted this. I do follow Andrey on Cults but not lately, turns out he has a 4 dr sedan for this 66 which i've been dying to get my hands on (my Dad had one) so thanks a lot. Also looking forward to the podcasts in January.
Thanks for your viewership of both the channel and podcast. I love Andrey’s stuff and promoting his stuff is my pleasure. I’m looking forward to the guests we have lined up for next year. A few big suprises coming…
I've purchased a few of his designs and overall very happy with them. I typically use the shell, interior and engine bay and adapt them to fit on a suitable scale 4WD scale RC chassis, usually works out to a 1:9 scale based on the track width of the chassis. I did the 1962 International C120 step side this summer and it turned out great. Great designs to use and currently working on the 1959 Chevy Suburban and Nissan Sunny Hakotora.
@thanks! I break the large components into sections that are assembled post print using alignment holes inserted during the slicing operation. Short lengths of styrene rod are then inserted into the holes and serve as alignment locators for the mating parts. I run a Bambu P1S for the fdm prints and a Saturn 3 Ultra for things like the grille, dashboard, lenses, etc. The windows are typically cut out of clear sheet with a small cnc and the curved glass is vacuum formed. It’s so great having tools available to us at an obtainable cost, what a time to be alive lol
The print turned out good from what we can see on camera. Looking forward to seeing the progress yo u make as you move along on this build, love your channel!
@@2shoestoo thanks so much for your support. I have projects ahead of this one. I really wanted to print something from Andrey. His files are the best!
Andrey Bezrodny files from CG Trader are the BEST!!! They have printable clear glass files, wheels, tires, etc. I've printed and built his 67 Plymouth Valiant since I had an extra slant six to put in something. Working on his 69 Buick Sport Wagon, and just printed his 71 Ford Ranchero- also includes printable 351-390 engine!!! but my printer started acting up before I got the frame done. His 33 Willys is so clean printing I cant wait to start on it!
@@ScaleModelExperiment How is Elegoo? I'm running AnyCubic and have had good luck except for my own fault in destroying a lead screw motor and one cooling fan. I left it operating in the same shop running a sand blaster. Found out real fast- glass bead dust in the surrounding air will take out a motor in no time.
@@ScaleModelExperiment I will check them out. Have you tried 3D scanning? I want to get a scan, and print in 1:25, my first ever full size car owned. my Creality ferret has a rough time with the only small matchbox size representation I can find of the car. Maybe it's my outdated PC?
Great video, I have afew models from Andrey, I waited for the 66 station wagon which he now released. Printing cars is much harder than figures. I angel my prints 60-70% for the best results.
Hi David, yes I printed at .025 with 8k Elegoo resin and used angles to get the best print quality I could. It won’t take much sanding to have a paint ready surface.
That looks really great James! I had mentioned to Andrey (we follow each other on FB) that he created the nicest 1965-‘66 GM B body two door hardtop I’ve seen. While Revell’s isn’t bad, something about the ones they did never seemed quite right to me, especially at the roofline. AMT’s annuals also suffer from misshapen body lines. Andrey IMO got that EXACTLY correct. In regards to supports…..yes…..I find that anchoring the model on the corners with heavy supports, and also at the leading and trailing edges of the wheel wells keeps print shifting at a minimum. One thing that does drive me crazy with Chitubox’s slicer is that it’s not smart enough to put in supports on the inside when you have the body tilted on the opposing plane. A number of times I’ve seen big voids where supports could go, but Chitubox didn’t put anything there. Like you did I put them in manually, and the print came out ok……the ‘65 Barracuda I made recently I had this issue with the slicer. I see that Andrey now has the ‘66 Chevy wagon…….i think I’ll go and grab that file as it’s also VERY well done. 👍🏾
It’s great to see you back Bill! I absolutely agree with your assessment of the files. Spot on in my eye. I’m learning more and more with every print about angles and supports. Someday I’ll get a perfect print 😂
Wow. Those parts came out fantastic. I came upon your video in my search for a 66 caprice model. I’m attempting to build “ the cars of my youth” and this is first car I remember my father driving. (Building my mom’s 68 charger now. Built my bro’s first car; 71 T-bird. And recently found resin conversion kit to turn 77 Monte Carlo in my 73, my1st car) I found A. Bedrozney program for sale but I don’t have 3D printer. I saw places that will print for you but they need the program the do a quote. And I don’t want to buy want to buy program only to find the printing will cost 100s. Any clue what I’m looking at? And/or recommend a printer co.? Thanks and again, that’s awesome kit.
Look up Andy Lesiak on Facebook. He prints a lot of Andrey’s files for around $100. The cost of big printers are now less than $300 these days. I recommend the Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra. I’ll be reviewing one very soon.
My local library has a short training video that must be taken first, you then set yourself up with an ID and password to receive the file you want, go into a 3D printing website, access the file you want, then re-send the file to one of many 3D printers they have in the library. It's really not hard, although you may have to make file changes for printing in the scale you want. You'll need a simple calculator to do that. The printers and resin is free at my library. Don't know how long this will be the case, it got more popular I think than they expected it to be. I have to wait in line hours before my job prints.
@@ScaleModelExperiment it's great, the only drawback is the queue gets stacked up on printers. Sometimes I have had to return the next day to pick up what I printed. Also, if you wish to print in a particular color, sometimes you have no choice because they've run out of that color in their supplies.
Nice model! I print with Saturn 3 and the same water washable 8k and have problems with warping plane objects. I use extra "bars" and "logs" to strengthen the plane, but it's not that easy to sand them away. Some say it's all about way of exposing after wash. With or without supports. And how long you dry the model after washing. Some wash and and expose. Maybe there was a tutorial at this channel how to deal with warping?
Hi PseudoNo, the only way I know of to eliminate warping is to print flat to the build plate which causes the other issue print lines. Pick your poison… I’ll take warped parts myself over sanding for hours. I’ll make a video soon about straightening warped resin parts. It’s not difficult just work slowly and don’t over flex.
@ This really is a simplified kit, the level of detail is high for the parts that are there though. I guess it depends on what you’re looking for. I like a clean shelf model myself.
I’ve been scolded for not being 100% safe while handling uncured resin so I don’t show a lot. I’ll make a safer video soon showing post print processing.
That’s how I started. I had some files and didn’t have a printer or anyone to print them for me. I bought a 4k printer and watched a lot of videos on printing and figured it out.
Great video, James! What are the better qualities of this printed kit over the revelle 66 impala kit? Or the trumpeter kit? The printed engine looks amazing!
Hi Tim, there are positives and negatives for each. The printed one makes for a nice shelf model, not many pieces and pretty easy to just slam together. The Revell would be more for adding details to.
Hey James, Awesome video! Loving these 3D videos as I'm still new to doing these prints. I have not printed one of his files yet. I have several of his files I want to print. He has been offering them for $10 bucks from time to time so I grab them for some day projects... Lol Are you going to print the clear parts? Thanks again! LLAP 🖖
Hi Bruce. Thanks so much for watching and supporting the channel. I do enjoy making these resin printing videos. They seem to get more attention than any others on my channel. What are you waiting for! Print some Andrey stuff! As for the clear parts, I’ll make a batch of clear parts for a bunch of kits all at the same time.
@@ScaleModelExperiment I bought another vat and clear resin last month and have been so covered I just have not had the time to do any printing. I'm waiting for his 69 GrandPrix to go in special then I will get excited... 🤣 Could you pleas go over how you setup to print the clear stuff? Take care my friend! LLAP 🖖
@Bruces-Eclectic-World it’s funny, I did start a clear parts video but couldn’t find the right exposure setting. I think that 2.4 exposure Is the ideal despite they recommend 8 seconds.
Hey James, how are you liking the water wash resin? I have been printing Andrey's files for over two years found the interior tub is always a little tall when adding the chassis to it.
After looking at several different printers and their differences I've just recently purchased the Saturn 4 as you have along with wash and cure stations. I'm really liking it and surprisingly easier getting started than I first thought. Is it the ABS like resin that you used on that kit? I've only tried the water washable so far but thinking I may want something a little less brittle for the bigger or more delicate parts.
@@BrianF.1969 Hi Brian, congrats on your purchase. I love my printer, it’s so much better than the one I started with. I use water wash almost exclusively. This one was Elegoo water wash 8k space grey. Their ABS is really good as well as I printed some figures with it. Cleanup was easy with their detergent as well. Let me know if you have any questions about my experiences with Elegoo resins.
@@ScaleModelExperiment Great and thank you. I really like that all I need is water for the water washable. I do ad a little bit of all purpose cleaner in the pre and main wash also.
Chitubox 2.2 doesn’t have an antialiasing feature. I think it does a decent job of hiding layer lines. I started with a 4k machine so everything with my 12k machine is no big deal to sand.
@@ScaleModelExperiment Resolution is not that important, pixel size matters in these cases, i know sanding fixes the issues, but if you get some bad layer lines in hard places to reach AA might be better. Try using Lychee
@MilvusModels after washing and letting the parts air dry for a couple hours I like to cure my pieces for 6-8 mins in the cure station then I flip the over for another 4-5 mins.
On a side note, just before watching, I used canopy glue to mount a 3D printed carb on a popsicle stick to paint it. Hoo, boy! Was it a pain to get off!
I do like the vanilla resin color better because you can paint lighter colors easier. I had an extra bottle of the space grey so I decided to use it instead. Plus the grey shows defects better.
So after watching this video, I have to ask ..... Is this the future for AMT, Revell, etc. ? (No more need for factories in China to make their kits, the model companies create digital files and customers buy a license to print files from them or at a local hobby shop)
Hi Ray, I’ve had this conversation with others. I don’t think so. Reason being: AMT can’t guarantee the results you’ll get when you print their files. Plus it’s a pretty lucrative business to be in. Model kit sales on a large scale is a cash cow.
@@ScaleModelExperiment well the workaround for that would be the license is not just one and done, they would give it an expiration date so you can re-print until you get one that's acceptable. No reason to me this would be any less lucrative, they could charge the same price that they do today, without paying for a factory in China. I'm seeing potential for an advantage on the production side for hot new kits. Today, they generally run batch production in the factory, and that would no longer have to be delayed and managed until after other batches of kits get produced.
@@rayrussell6258The problem with that is Revell and AMT have a notorious record of not getting physical models correct. One too many times I’ve seen body shapes that were way off, details missing, and certain things not quite right. That means the file itself would have to be corrected, and that’s a hassle because the modeler may have already printed the model, only to see that some things aren’t right, and they’d have to print the model again. If it’s a printed model from the company, the file would then have to be changed by the original designer, rerun, and in a business such as the kit manufacturers that can be cost prohibitive. Let’s not forget also that 3D printing is not a plug and play operation. Let’s say that the model companies issued files only…..no kits. That would mean modelers would have to learn an entirely new skill set, and many I’ve bumped into just aren’t able (or willing) to take that step. While model kits I don’t ever see completely going away, I do believe 3D printing is here to stay, just like I predicted it would 7-8 years ago when I built my first printed engine, and realized that this was the next big thing to hit the hobby.
@@plastiksurgeon9129 I think most modelers would not even notice what you say by "not getting models correct". That would not be much of a drawback, if you ask me. It would be no different than the kits we buy in a box, when you boil it all down. Yes, the license would have to have expiration date extended if the Company modified the digital file to correct errors, but the way things are going, they could do that over the air, just like auto companies are now doing to modify software on cars and trucks via satellite. I really see no downside for the model companies who switch to files, they will no longer have to manage batch scheduling of kits at China factories to keep the pipeline of hotter kits in line with demand, in fact they would no longer be paying anything to factories in China. Tooling is also extremely expensive to make, and that expense would go away if software can replace it in a more cost effective way. Would I personally be joyful if things went to digital files? No But that is the direction things are heading, and I'm too old to stop it from happening! lol
Its a whole another hobby Leon and a huge time eating rabbit hole... Lol It is a blast to see it all work after hours of getting it on the build plate to a printed item. I have spent 3-4 hours getting a set of tires and rims set and supported just right, Then fitting right after making adjustments. After that you have a working print forever. People never tell you the hours it takes to get a good print. The first one is always a failed print as James showed. With that all said, YES you do need to get one, I recommend it... LLAP 🖖
Cool James! I can't wait to start trying to print! Thanks🧑🎄🎄😎👍
You’re gonna love it Intake👍
Great overview of that model
Thanks so much for watching. I appreciate your support👍
Absolutely loving your 3d resin videos James, very interesting keen to get myself a printer..
Thanks for watching Brett👍 I’ve found that a large number of people who enjoy these videos don’t have printers yet. I don’t want to come across like a commercial but I do enjoy sharing my experiments.
Wow 3d printing has came so far in such a short time, the detail is incredible! Its a great time to be in the hobby
That’s for sure, as if I didn’t already have too much to build! Now I have tons of printed stuff too.👍
Well done James, that's such a beautiful print right there. Nice details all round and looking forward to see the new Ferrari print too.
Thanks Karl! The Ferrari came out amazing, I’ll post the video in a few days.
Another awesome video James, I love Andrey Bezrodny files and print a lot of his cars, he's 1 of the best on the internet if you ask me, superb job, I've been printing for a year now and still learning, as theres lots 😂 but its fun, failed prints end up in the wrecking yard, or for crashed car Dioramas or cut up for parts, enjoy your weekend Cheers 🍻 KC 🇦🇺🦘🪃🏔🤝🇺🇸🗽
I totally agree, Andrey has the largest amount of my hard drive filled up. I have found a few other guys making great files. Stay tuned, I’ll showcase them to you all. Take care Aussie bud👍
@ScaleModelExperiment ha ha 😂 same here, same, Sim3D has nice files, 👍 enjoy your weekend James 🍻 🇦🇺 🦘
Hi James, happy you posted this. I do follow Andrey on Cults but not lately, turns out he has a 4 dr sedan for this 66 which i've been dying to get my hands on (my Dad had one) so thanks a lot. Also looking forward to the podcasts in January.
Thanks for your viewership of both the channel and podcast. I love Andrey’s stuff and promoting his stuff is my pleasure. I’m looking forward to the guests we have lined up for next year. A few big suprises coming…
Nice video. It was pretty neat to see how 3D printing works. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching Michael. I’ll do more like this video in the future.
Thanks for sharing your great print Mr.James!!!
Thanks for watching Willy👍
I've purchased a few of his designs and overall very happy with them. I typically use the shell, interior and engine bay and adapt them to fit on a suitable scale 4WD scale RC chassis, usually works out to a 1:9 scale based on the track width of the chassis. I did the 1962 International C120 step side this summer and it turned out great. Great designs to use and currently working on the 1959 Chevy Suburban and Nissan Sunny Hakotora.
That’s a huge print! What size printer do you use?
@thanks! I break the large components into sections that are assembled post print using alignment holes inserted during the slicing operation. Short lengths of styrene rod are then inserted into the holes and serve as alignment locators for the mating parts. I run a Bambu P1S for the fdm prints and a Saturn 3 Ultra for things like the grille, dashboard, lenses, etc. The windows are typically cut out of clear sheet with a small cnc and the curved glass is vacuum formed. It’s so great having tools available to us at an obtainable cost, what a time to be alive lol
@@nuge74 I’ll say! You do have it all figured out!
@@ScaleModelExperiment lol I’ve had my share of head scratching moments and failures😁 Lots of fun though and a great hobby. All the best!
@nuge74 that’s the right attitude. Figure it out! I’m actually glad I started with the 4k machine. I wouldn’t have appreciated the 12k machine.
Amazing results, very nice printer.
Thanks for watching Andrew👍
That is awesome. Thanks for sharing. Have a great one
Thanks for watching Roy! I appreciate your support 👍
The print turned out good from what we can see on camera. Looking forward to seeing the progress yo u make as you move along on this build, love your channel!
@@2shoestoo thanks so much for your support. I have projects ahead of this one. I really wanted to print something from Andrey. His files are the best!
Very nice. It reminds me of my 1:1 Impala that I owned for six years.
Cool Bob, I like the shape of that era Impala’s.
Andrey Bezrodny files from CG Trader are the BEST!!! They have printable clear glass files, wheels, tires, etc. I've printed and built his 67 Plymouth Valiant since I had an extra slant six to put in something. Working on his 69 Buick Sport Wagon, and just printed his 71 Ford Ranchero- also includes printable 351-390 engine!!! but my printer started acting up before I got the frame done. His 33 Willys is so clean printing I cant wait to start on it!
I absolutely agree, his is the best stuff on CG model kit wise!
@@ScaleModelExperiment How is Elegoo? I'm running AnyCubic and have had good luck except for my own fault in destroying a lead screw motor and one cooling fan. I left it operating in the same shop running a sand blaster. Found out real fast- glass bead dust in the surrounding air will take out a motor in no time.
@TheDeletedMedia my first machine was Anycubic mono x2 4k machine. I learned a lot and just recently switched to the 12k Elegoo. I love the Elegoo.
@@ScaleModelExperiment I will check them out. Have you tried 3D scanning? I want to get a scan, and print in 1:25, my first ever full size car owned. my Creality ferret has a rough time with the only small matchbox size representation I can find of the car. Maybe it's my outdated PC?
@TheDeletedMedia I have not scanned anything. I have enough on my plate with work, YT and building for promotion 😂
Very cool my friend!!
Thanks so much Marcos👍
Beautiful print James. Supports are part science, part art, part dark magic.
@@JHartModelworks that’s for sure, I’m learning every print
I'm voting Voodoo magic JD... Lol 🖖
Great video, I have afew models from Andrey, I waited for the 66 station wagon which he now released. Printing cars is much harder than figures. I angel my prints 60-70% for the best results.
@@PaulBertrand-rd8tt wow, I try to stay under 15% to keep it from being too tall causing z shift problems.
Nice 66 components, hope the surface is nice and smooth.😊
Hi David, yes I printed at .025 with 8k Elegoo resin and used angles to get the best print quality I could. It won’t take much sanding to have a paint ready surface.
That looks really great James! I had mentioned to Andrey (we follow each other on FB) that he created the nicest 1965-‘66 GM B body two door hardtop I’ve seen.
While Revell’s isn’t bad, something about the ones they did never seemed quite right to me, especially at the roofline. AMT’s annuals also suffer from misshapen body lines. Andrey IMO got that EXACTLY correct.
In regards to supports…..yes…..I find that anchoring the model on the corners with heavy supports, and also at the leading and trailing edges of the wheel wells keeps print shifting at a minimum.
One thing that does drive me crazy with Chitubox’s slicer is that it’s not smart enough to put in supports on the inside when you have the body tilted on the opposing plane.
A number of times I’ve seen big voids where supports could go, but Chitubox didn’t put anything there. Like you did I put them in manually, and the print came out ok……the ‘65 Barracuda I made recently I had this issue with the slicer.
I see that Andrey now has the ‘66 Chevy wagon…….i think I’ll go and grab that file as it’s also VERY well done. 👍🏾
It’s great to see you back Bill! I absolutely agree with your assessment of the files. Spot on in my eye. I’m learning more and more with every print about angles and supports. Someday I’ll get a perfect print 😂
That Sagaris kit is totally Awesome wouldn’t mind building it
Thanks for watching Woody, I’ll throw your name in👍
Awesome Goodluck building it
Thanks Travis, I can always count on your support.
Wow. Those parts came out fantastic. I came upon your video in my search for a 66 caprice model. I’m attempting to build “ the cars of my youth” and this is first car I remember my father driving. (Building my mom’s 68 charger now. Built my bro’s first car; 71 T-bird. And recently found resin conversion kit to turn 77 Monte Carlo in my 73, my1st car) I found A. Bedrozney program for sale but I don’t have 3D printer. I saw places that will print for you but they need the program the do a quote. And I don’t want to buy want to buy program only to find the printing will cost 100s. Any clue what I’m looking at? And/or recommend a printer co.? Thanks and again, that’s awesome kit.
Look up Andy Lesiak on Facebook. He prints a lot of Andrey’s files for around $100. The cost of big printers are now less than $300 these days. I recommend the Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra. I’ll be reviewing one very soon.
@ Thank you so much!! Just reached out and placed the order. 😁😁👍🏻👍🏻
@mightyjjk1298 glad to help!
little tweek here and there .........looks good
Hi Nelson, you’re right! It won’t take much prep work for this car to be primer ready.
Looks cool.
Thanks for watching GFIP👍
Pretty cool I wish I knew how to 3d print great job
Thanks for watching John. If you can get a printer, I think you’ll really like it.
My local library has a short training video that must be taken first, you then set yourself up with an ID and password to receive the file you want, go into a 3D printing website, access the file you want, then re-send the file to one of many 3D printers they have in the library. It's really not hard, although you may have to make file changes for printing in the scale you want. You'll need a simple calculator to do that. The printers and resin is free at my library. Don't know how long this will be the case, it got more popular I think than they expected it to be. I have to wait in line hours before my job prints.
@@rayrussell6258 that sounds like. Deal to get your stuff printed for you. Awesome!
@@ScaleModelExperiment it's great, the only drawback is the queue gets stacked up on printers. Sometimes I have had to return the next day to pick up what I printed.
Also, if you wish to print in a particular color, sometimes you have no choice because they've run out of that color in their supplies.
@rayrussell6258 you must be talking about FDM printing. Way different resolution wise.
Nice model! I print with Saturn 3 and the same water washable 8k and have problems with warping plane objects. I use extra "bars" and "logs" to strengthen the plane, but it's not that easy to sand them away. Some say it's all about way of exposing after wash. With or without supports. And how long you dry the model after washing. Some wash and and expose. Maybe there was a tutorial at this channel how to deal with warping?
Hi PseudoNo, the only way I know of to eliminate warping is to print flat to the build plate which causes the other issue print lines. Pick your poison… I’ll take warped parts myself over sanding for hours. I’ll make a video soon about straightening warped resin parts. It’s not difficult just work slowly and don’t over flex.
Looks good aside from the little warpage. The details are amazing.
Thanks Onix, I credit the resin and printer. I wasn’t printing this well a year ago.
I’m curious how this would compare to the amt kit.
@ This really is a simplified kit, the level of detail is high for the parts that are there though. I guess it depends on what you’re looking for. I like a clean shelf model myself.
Thanks for sharing James! This looks like so much fun! Did you already share your cleaning process? Your prints seem very clean
I’ve been scolded for not being 100% safe while handling uncured resin so I don’t show a lot. I’ll make a safer video soon showing post print processing.
@ScaleModelExperiment oh I hear ya, was just curious what your process was but no biggie if it's too much of a hassle
@scalemodelfrenzy no hassle at all. I forget that I am considered an influencer so I have to show good practices😁
@@ScaleModelExperiment awesome thanks!
James great car project. But I’m surprised you 3D printed the tires. I mean with all the nice vinyl or rubber tires available out there.
Honestly, I was suprised when I painted the Hoonicorn tires. They look just as nice as vinyl or rubber tires.
I’m a little jelly…looking forward to watching along on this. I have the 77 T-Bird files, just need to get a printer, or find someone to print for me.
That’s how I started. I had some files and didn’t have a printer or anyone to print them for me. I bought a 4k printer and watched a lot of videos on printing and figured it out.
@ I have the Saturn 3 in my cart….
@ the Saturn 3 is the same printer as what I use without the auto leveling feature. Very very good quality.
Great video, James! What are the better qualities of this printed kit over the revelle 66 impala kit? Or the trumpeter kit? The printed engine looks amazing!
Hi Tim, there are positives and negatives for each. The printed one makes for a nice shelf model, not many pieces and pretty easy to just slam together. The Revell would be more for adding details to.
Hey James, Awesome video! Loving these 3D videos as I'm still new to doing these prints. I have not printed one of his files yet. I have several of his files I want to print. He has been offering them for $10 bucks from time to time so I grab them for some day projects... Lol
Are you going to print the clear parts?
Thanks again!
LLAP 🖖
Hi Bruce. Thanks so much for watching and supporting the channel. I do enjoy making these resin printing videos. They seem to get more attention than any others on my channel. What are you waiting for! Print some Andrey stuff! As for the clear parts, I’ll make a batch of clear parts for a bunch of kits all at the same time.
@@ScaleModelExperiment I bought another vat and clear resin last month and have been so covered I just have not had the time to do any printing. I'm waiting for his 69 GrandPrix to go in special then I will get excited... 🤣 Could you pleas go over how you setup to print the clear stuff? Take care my friend!
LLAP 🖖
@Bruces-Eclectic-World it’s funny, I did start a clear parts video but couldn’t find the right exposure setting. I think that 2.4 exposure Is the ideal despite they recommend 8 seconds.
@@ScaleModelExperiment Ok, thanks James that is a place to start. Angled, flat, lots of small supports? Thanks 🖖
There’s is a injected molded 66’ Impala fastback out there already but in 1/25
You're correct. Revell made that model. I built the 65 years ago and it was a great kit.
Hey James, how are you liking the water wash resin? I have been printing Andrey's files for over two years found the interior tub is always a little tall when adding the chassis to it.
I do like the water wash resin. Easier cleanup👍 in some instances I will change the scale of a seat or interior to make for a better fit.
After looking at several different printers and their differences I've just recently purchased the Saturn 4 as you have along with wash and cure stations. I'm really liking it and surprisingly easier getting started than I first thought. Is it the ABS like resin that you used on that kit? I've only tried the water washable so far but thinking I may want something a little less brittle for the bigger or more delicate parts.
@@BrianF.1969 Hi Brian, congrats on your purchase. I love my printer, it’s so much better than the one I started with. I use water wash almost exclusively. This one was Elegoo water wash 8k space grey. Their ABS is really good as well as I printed some figures with it. Cleanup was easy with their detergent as well. Let me know if you have any questions about my experiences with Elegoo resins.
@@ScaleModelExperiment Great and thank you. I really like that all I need is water for the water washable. I do ad a little bit of all purpose cleaner in the pre and main wash also.
@ I do as well, I get LA Awesome at the dollar store and add some to the water to cut the grease.
@@ScaleModelExperiment Yeah I've remembered you mention it before and that's were I got the idea from. Thanks.
try using AntiAliasing to hide layer lines, and see if it affects details
Chitubox 2.2 doesn’t have an antialiasing feature. I think it does a decent job of hiding layer lines. I started with a 4k machine so everything with my 12k machine is no big deal to sand.
@@ScaleModelExperiment Resolution is not that important, pixel size matters in these cases, i know sanding fixes the issues, but if you get some bad layer lines in hard places to reach AA might be better. Try using Lychee
That first print must have been slated for a vinyl top. Fisher body and GM excellence!🤣
@@timkustom haha, it could be fixed but not in less time to print another😂
Hi, congratulations for your videos. 😉👍
Do you wash the printed pieces only with water or also with IPA?
I only use water for the water wash resin. When I used Elegoo’s ABS like resin I used Elegoo’s resin detergent. It works very quickly and well.
@ScaleModelExperiment 👍
How long does it take to UV cure the pieces? Thank you.
P. S. Sorry for my bad english 😊
@MilvusModels after washing and letting the parts air dry for a couple hours I like to cure my pieces for 6-8 mins in the cure station then I flip the over for another 4-5 mins.
@MilvusModels Your English is fine, thanks for commenting👍
@@ScaleModelExperiment thx
after going thru this myself imho you need the majority to be medium and heavy supports
Hi Jim, I was able to get a very good print using the lights with a few heavy with minimal damage from supports.
What do you use to heat up the parts? I watch a guy who uses a heat gun on plastic action figures.
@@JDsHouseofHobbies Hey JD, sometimes I use hot tap water sometimes a hair dryer. It doesn’t take much to be able to bend it just a little.
@@ScaleModelExperiment Thanks I was wondering the same thing James. Thanks for asking JD... 🖖
On a side note, just before watching, I used canopy glue to mount a 3D printed carb on a popsicle stick to paint it. Hoo, boy! Was it a pain to get off!
@ I learned the hard way too. I think because it’s porous like wood it really bonds things together
From what I can see is the body line on the front fenders should drop downward 65 Impala is straight I scratch built a 66 in 1/12th scale 4 years back
Hmmm, interesting observation. I’m not a Chevy guy so I didn’t notice that.
Why did you do in 8k vanilla water resin
I do like the vanilla resin color better because you can paint lighter colors easier. I had an extra bottle of the space grey so I decided to use it instead. Plus the grey shows defects better.
So after watching this video, I have to ask ..... Is this the future for AMT, Revell, etc. ?
(No more need for factories in China to make their kits, the model companies create digital files and customers buy a license to print files from them or at a local hobby shop)
Hi Ray, I’ve had this conversation with others. I don’t think so. Reason being: AMT can’t guarantee the results you’ll get when you print their files. Plus it’s a pretty lucrative business to be in. Model kit sales on a large scale is a cash cow.
@@ScaleModelExperiment well the workaround for that would be the license is not just one and done, they would give it an expiration date so you can re-print until you get one that's acceptable.
No reason to me this would be any less lucrative, they could charge the same price that they do today, without paying for a factory in China.
I'm seeing potential for an advantage on the production side for hot new kits. Today, they generally run batch production in the factory, and that would no longer have to be delayed and managed until after other batches of kits get produced.
@ gotcha, I can see your point.
@@rayrussell6258The problem with that is Revell and AMT have a notorious record of not getting physical models correct. One too many times I’ve seen body shapes that were way off, details missing, and certain things not quite right.
That means the file itself would have to be corrected, and that’s a hassle because the modeler may have already printed the model, only to see that some things aren’t right, and they’d have to print the model again.
If it’s a printed model from the company, the file would then have to be changed by the original designer, rerun, and in a business such as the kit manufacturers that can be cost prohibitive.
Let’s not forget also that 3D printing is not a plug and play operation. Let’s say that the model companies issued files only…..no kits. That would mean modelers would have to learn an entirely new skill set, and many I’ve bumped into just aren’t able (or willing) to take that step.
While model kits I don’t ever see completely going away, I do believe 3D printing is here to stay, just like I predicted it would 7-8 years ago when I built my first printed engine, and realized that this was the next big thing to hit the hobby.
@@plastiksurgeon9129 I think most modelers would not even notice what you say by "not getting models correct". That would not be much of a drawback, if you ask me. It would be no different than the kits we buy in a box, when you boil it all down.
Yes, the license would have to have expiration date extended if the Company modified the digital file to correct errors, but the way things are going, they could do that over the air, just like auto companies are now doing to modify software on cars and trucks via satellite.
I really see no downside for the model companies who switch to files, they will no longer have to manage batch scheduling of kits at China factories to keep the pipeline of hotter kits in line with demand, in fact they would no longer be paying anything to factories in China. Tooling is also extremely expensive to make, and that expense would go away if software can replace it in a more cost effective way.
Would I personally be joyful if things went to digital files? No
But that is the direction things are heading, and I'm too old to stop it from happening! lol
I got to get me a 3D printer 🖨️
Yes sir, if you can I recommend you do.
Its a whole another hobby Leon and a huge time eating rabbit hole... Lol It is a blast to see it all work after hours of getting it on the build plate to a printed item. I have spent 3-4 hours getting a set of tires and rims set and supported just right, Then fitting right after making adjustments. After that you have a working print forever. People never tell you the hours it takes to get a good print. The first one is always a failed print as James showed. With that all said, YES you do need to get one, I recommend it... LLAP 🖖