Thanks for this video. I bought that same switch and power supply for a printer I'm building from scratch, but couldn't find anywhere that said exactly how to wire these parts up until I found this video. It's a life saver!
I saw the cloths pin on your Y end stop on your MakerFront. I had that same problem on my MakerFront. I designed a flat piece of plastic that I could put two screw through the end stop and bolt to the frame in the back. I 3D printed it. It has been working for about three months of continuous printing with no problems.
Also that filament holder you use does create some drag. I found a universal filament holder that uses bearings on Thingiverse that has almost no drag and fits every filament spool I have ever used!
I was going to add another hole so the end stop could have two nuts and bolts to hold it better, but got to busy with projects. Currently working on a Root2CNC machine which is by sailorpete on Thingiverse.
Another great vid, Chuck. With so many Prusa clones and other cheap Chinese printers available, these are really helpful tips for people that want to improve their printers safely the right way.
In Conrad catalogue for us Europeans, the product number for the simple integrated unit is 501637 and for the neon lit version it's 501638, availability in brick and mortar stores is good for either.
I left the 5A polyfuse alone and pulled the 11A one and jumpered it across. I then replaced it with a car fuse in to those terminals at 10A. 24V 10A and I have never had it blow. Now a word of warning is I had a resetable 10A breaker in there before and it got so hot it would burn me. When the board died from a stray arc I pulled it apart and found that the Mosfet to the bed was getting so hot it melted the wiring connector over the span of about 18 months which is not good. I bought a new ramps 1.4 and first thing I did was replace that fet with a better mosfet (IRF something I forget now but the specs were 60A etc...) and that baby doesn't even get warm to the touch. That mosfet is a horrible mosfet as is being over driven for years (a miracle more fires haven't happened).
***** No room on a Ramps for the Mosfets to get a proper heatsink and because of the lousy ones used it would require a huge heatsink. This irf I used has no heatsink and never gets warm.
Thanks for the info I just got an Anet printer and it came with a funny looking plug and I have to change to a us style plug and was not sure how I would do that but thanks to you I now know how thanks again.
Good day! How many glass fuse should I put? There's 2 glass fuse at the other iec socket switch that I have. Should I really put 2 or that other 1 is just a reserved?
Would a full cover not be okay because you're screwing through to the case and so it will be connected to the 3d printer frame? My electrical knowledge is limited but i'm curious.
Not necessarily. Current often goes down or stays the same in a higher voltage system. Just has more voltage to produce the current so it can speed things up.
got the same switch although the rocker switch is upside down so the plastic tab in between the to prongs is at the top and in the above shot in your video its at the bottom so would i plug it in the same way or the wiring on the rocker switch be inverted i hope that makes sense
At 8.25 you mention half a Hole.I Have been trying for 70 years to make or find half a hole . they always end up a full Hole.PLESE caould you tell be how to make one .thank's
4:10 HaHa.. Boy... Chuck that is one noisy pencil.... Yeah relying on the Mounting screws to hold the two halves together would not have been my first choice. BTW.. I understood that you wanted to protect the PCB on-board poly fuses by going just under their combined rating. I also under stood that at the 110vac input of the PS that worked out to about a 2 Amp Fuse. By putting a 6 Amp fuse on the 110vac input you are no longer protecting the poly fuses and have increased the DC input to the poly fuses by 3 times or 45 Amps. You've essentially removed any protection to the PCB using a 6Amp fuse on the PS input and are only relying on the poly fuses to protect the PCB.
So it is able to fit a standard 3 Amp to 13 Amp fuse, I could never do this with the 19mm hole size on the one I bought elsewhere. The hole was 19mm and too much risk to make it bigger.
European have turn able plugs, so both have live and neutral. So usually you want to break both. And the new colors for earth is yellow/green and not white. (exceptions for some local legislation, use Wikipedia as a source).
Thanks for showing the wiring of the switch. Just had my printer fail a print mid way because I used crimp connectors. I did everything correctly but i guess the neutral part got loose and it melted destroying the switch. I was thinking of using crimp connectors just take off the plastic and use heatshrink(like i do when wiring up a car), I think ill be soldering the wires to the power supply. Is 14ga wire okay?
Not sure covering up the whole PSU case is a good idea . In most ive repaired the power regulating FETs are bolted to the case which acts as a heat sink!
You seem to have more knowledge of the technical side of this hobby than most, I hope you dont mind my question: On an Anet A6 which is almost identical to Anet A8 and other similar machines...How important is an upgrade to a 30a power supply over stock, which I believe is 15a?
I literally just did my switch wiring from my switch to a highly recommended 30a PSU from Amazon. Basically there's only 2 benefits. Faster warm up times on the bed, & the one everyone recommends from Amazon has a built in fan. I've heard it makes for better/faster ABS prints but I guess we'll see about that later. You could always rig a switch & an old PC face to the stock PSU I suppose. Either way, get a switch & MOSFET just for safety's sake.
stock is 20amps - 30amp is better to meet the switch on surge and apart from dealing with teh hotbed better - allows "some spare" amps. A mosfet is an additional helper for the hotbed and alothough some say nozzle does not need one - for $5 each - I use two and in the UK this is known as "Belts and Braces" - yer never know if one will fail! Also some folks who buy a 30amp - use it for hotbed and motherboard - and use thw 20amp as a separate supply to the Nozzle - the 30amp PSU is OK for all and keep the 20amp for you LEDS etc,. I also suggest that ALL uses of hotbeds using the Anet plate and cable - buy some Bondic or ist cheapo clone - "5 second fix" off ebay and others - and use it across the pins to lock in the male and female sides... it stops them moving around - which is mainly why the burn out!
Thank you for your answer. Yea, but they exceed my budget. My budget is about $200 so I searched internet, I found the most populars Anet a8 and Tarantula i3 for that price. If you can suggest in that price level what would be? Or if you prefer just one of two(a8 and tarantula), which would be? Thanks again.
Why not size the fuse off of the power supply data sheet? I like your methodology if I were trying to size a power supply. But your method is leading folks to size fuses based on infered data instead of going right to the source. Say your power supply has an in rush of 6As. Now every to you turn on your power supply you are working down the life of your fuse which could lead it to spurious trip when nothing is wrong.
Thanks for this video. I bought that same switch and power supply for a printer I'm building from scratch, but couldn't find anywhere that said exactly how to wire these parts up until I found this video. It's a life saver!
I saw the cloths pin on your Y end stop on your MakerFront. I had that same problem on my MakerFront. I designed a flat piece of plastic that I could put two screw through the end stop and bolt to the frame in the back. I 3D printed it. It has been working for about three months of continuous printing with no problems.
Also that filament holder you use does create some drag. I found a universal filament holder that uses bearings on Thingiverse that has almost no drag and fits every filament spool I have ever used!
I just now uploaded it. Feel free to use it however. I am sure it could be made better.www.thingiverse.com/thing:2106401
I was going to add another hole so the end stop could have two nuts and bolts to hold it better, but got to busy with projects. Currently working on a Root2CNC machine which is by sailorpete on Thingiverse.
Another great vid, Chuck.
With so many Prusa clones and other cheap Chinese printers available, these are really helpful tips for people that want to improve their printers safely the right way.
I find stuff like this fascinating, probably because I've never done it. Thanks for another great video!
In Conrad catalogue for us Europeans, the product number for the simple integrated unit is 501637 and for the neon lit version it's 501638, availability in brick and mortar stores is good for either.
I left the 5A polyfuse alone and pulled the 11A one and jumpered it across. I then replaced it with a car fuse in to those terminals at 10A. 24V 10A and I have never had it blow. Now a word of warning is I had a resetable 10A breaker in there before and it got so hot it would burn me. When the board died from a stray arc I pulled it apart and found that the Mosfet to the bed was getting so hot it melted the wiring connector over the span of about 18 months which is not good. I bought a new ramps 1.4 and first thing I did was replace that fet with a better mosfet (IRF something I forget now but the specs were 60A etc...) and that baby doesn't even get warm to the touch. That mosfet is a horrible mosfet as is being over driven for years (a miracle more fires haven't happened).
*****
No room on a Ramps for the Mosfets to get a proper heatsink and because of the lousy ones used it would require a huge heatsink. This irf I used has no heatsink and never gets warm.
Thanks for the info I just got an Anet printer and it came with a funny looking plug and I have to change to a us style plug and was not sure how I would do that but thanks to you I now know how thanks again.
I'm curious--Why not just install a 3a (or maybe 4a) slow blow fuse to allow for the startup surges?
Very nice looks very clean
Good day! How many glass fuse should I put? There's 2 glass fuse at the other iec socket switch that I have. Should I really put 2 or that other 1 is just a reserved?
Hi, i know its an old video, but it would be beneficial for viewers if you also mentioned the gauge of the wires
What size cutout for the inlet plug? I know they're 30mm x 50mm but i don't know the cutout dimensions and my switch is still in the mail
Would a full cover not be okay because you're screwing through to the case and so it will be connected to the 3d printer frame? My electrical knowledge is limited but i'm curious.
How about my power supply is 30A.?
Hey I did it! Thank you for the guide. Made one for my Ender 2 and added a switch.
Would we just double the amper amount for the fuse if we wanted to add a fuse to a 24V system? Thanks! Keep the content coming!
Not necessarily. Current often goes down or stays the same in a higher voltage system. Just has more voltage to produce the current so it can speed things up.
got the same switch although the rocker switch is upside down so the plastic tab in between the to prongs is at the top and in the above shot in your video its at the bottom so would i plug it in the same way or the wiring on the rocker switch be inverted i hope that makes sense
At 8.25 you mention half a Hole.I Have been trying for 70 years to make or find half a hole . they always end up a full Hole.PLESE caould you tell be how to make one .thank's
What are spades 2 and 1 - seen on the left... - used for?
4:10 HaHa.. Boy... Chuck that is one noisy pencil....
Yeah relying on the Mounting screws to hold the two halves together would not have been my first choice.
BTW.. I understood that you wanted to protect the PCB on-board poly fuses by going just under their combined rating. I also under stood that at the 110vac input of the PS that worked out to about a 2 Amp Fuse.
By putting a 6 Amp fuse on the 110vac input you are no longer protecting the poly fuses and have increased the DC input to the poly fuses by 3 times or 45 Amps.
You've essentially removed any protection to the PCB using a 6Amp fuse on the PS input and are only relying on the poly fuses to protect the PCB.
Nice extra bit of protection. I will assume there is no primary side protection built into the PSU?
Hey chuck I'm thinking getting A new matter 3d printer is that a good one two by what do you think
Hi Chep
Love your videos.
What is the reason for you to just break the live and not both Neutrual and Live?
chuck, i just happened to look up the makerfront i3 and it has a 400 w power supply not 225.
I want to fuse my tevo tarantula I am a complete stranger to it can you make a list of what I need?
One I bought some time ago had an odd size fuse that could not be purchased.
What is the physical fuse size of the one you use in millimeters please
Looks like a standard 20mm X 5mm fuse.
Thanks :)
If I remember the one I bought some time ago had a 19mm x 5 mm gap for a 20mm x 5mm fuse.... Cheapo rubbish
So it is able to fit a standard 3 Amp to 13 Amp fuse, I could never do this with the 19mm hole size on the one I bought elsewhere. The hole was 19mm and too much risk to make it bigger.
Thanks 2000%
European have turn able plugs, so both have live and neutral. So usually you want to break both.
And the new colors for earth is yellow/green and not white. (exceptions for some local legislation, use Wikipedia as a source).
Thanks for showing the wiring of the switch. Just had my printer fail a print mid way because I used crimp connectors. I did everything correctly but i guess the neutral part got loose and it melted destroying the switch. I was thinking of using crimp connectors just take off the plastic and use heatshrink(like i do when wiring up a car), I think ill be soldering the wires to the power supply.
Is 14ga wire okay?
Not sure covering up the whole PSU case is a good idea . In most ive repaired the power regulating FETs are bolted to the case which acts as a heat sink!
Thank you,,,
You seem to have more knowledge of the technical side of this hobby than most, I hope you dont mind my question: On an Anet A6 which is almost identical to Anet A8 and other similar machines...How important is an upgrade to a 30a power supply over stock, which I believe is 15a?
Pedro Zurita The power supply will last longer and perform cooler because of the reduced load.
I literally just did my switch wiring from my switch to a highly recommended 30a PSU from Amazon. Basically there's only 2 benefits. Faster warm up times on the bed, & the one everyone recommends from Amazon has a built in fan. I've heard it makes for better/faster ABS prints but I guess we'll see about that later. You could always rig a switch & an old PC face to the stock PSU I suppose. Either way, get a switch & MOSFET just for safety's sake.
stock is 20amps - 30amp is better to meet the switch on surge and apart from dealing with teh hotbed better - allows "some spare" amps. A mosfet is an additional helper for the hotbed and alothough some say nozzle does not need one - for $5 each - I use two and in the UK this is known as "Belts and Braces" - yer never know if one will fail! Also some folks who buy a 30amp - use it for hotbed and motherboard - and use thw 20amp as a separate supply to the Nozzle - the 30amp PSU is OK for all and keep the 20amp for you LEDS etc,. I also suggest that ALL uses of hotbeds using the Anet plate and cable - buy some Bondic or ist cheapo clone - "5 second fix" off ebay and others - and use it across the pins to lock in the male and female sides... it stops them moving around - which is mainly why the burn out!
Notice that using a bigger power supply than needed will make the power supply a bit less efficient.
Is it a fuse of how much ampere you have set?
???????
sorry i am french and i understand not very well, tell me directly would be nice
muy bueno
good video chuck!
Which 3d printer is this?
Thank you. Do you suggest Tevo Tarantula i3 or Anet a8 for beginners? Great tutorial btw. Keep it on.
Thank you for your answer. Yea, but they exceed my budget. My budget is about $200 so I searched internet, I found the most populars Anet a8 and Tarantula i3 for that price. If you can suggest in that price level what would be? Or if you prefer just one of two(a8 and tarantula), which would be? Thanks again.
can you try a challenge
Why not size the fuse off of the power supply data sheet? I like your methodology if I were trying to size a power supply. But your method is leading folks to size fuses based on infered data instead of going right to the source. Say your power supply has an in rush of 6As. Now every to you turn on your power supply you are working down the life of your fuse which could lead it to spurious trip when nothing is wrong.
Man I must be stupid, because I have NO idea what I am doing.