How To Wire AC Line Power to a 3D Printer Kit Power Supply
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ก.ย. 2024
- Chuck shows you how to properly wire AC power to the your 3D printer kit power supply so it's safe and follows the proper wiring code. He details the steps and explains what the color coded wires mean. He also introduces a 3D print to cover the power supply case and protect it further.
Power Supply Cover to Consider:
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Another design to consider:
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Good Electrical Safety video Chuck... well done.
Nice cover. Some more vent holes along the bottom outside edges would help air flow as well. I designed and printed my own that way and it works great no heat issues.
Thanks for sharing. Electronics safety is super important!
The cord with a green and two black is probably actually fine, assuming it's a flat-moulded cable. One of the conductors will have smooth insulation while the other will be ribbed (for the electrons' pleasure). The ribbed conductor will be neutral, and the smooth will be hot. This is defined by NEC 400.22 for the US.
That said, the best bet is to get a C14 inlet module with a switch and fuse, and use a standard computer power supply cable. Costs less than $5 delivered to your door from Amazon, and is well worth the peace of mind.
Great video Chuck, 3 years changed a lot on the 'set'
Fantastic video, Chuck. Planning on replacing the PSU on my 3d printer and this is incredibly helpful!
Great tips. My Parents house, built in 1947, had the old two prong outlets. Even better was the first electric drills were all metal cased with two prong cords. If the case shocked you, you flipped the around! If we were outside on wet ground, it was even better! Ouch! So at least we learned young. Keep the video's coming!
Great breakdown of the electrical system Chuck. Thanks!
Great video. Safety today or sorrow tomorrow.
My printer came with a three-wire cord with euro plug but only two-wire US (with euro color coded wires). Now, finding which wire is which is easy, but the gauge was ridiculous, like 24 gauge (.5mm)! Nevermind the ground. I replaced it with a nice 16gauge 3-prong appliance/tool cord from the hw store.
Great work, sir! I sincerely appreciate this video. When I get home, I will be checking wiring on my delta kit and most likely changing the wiring up. Thank you for this.
Great video Chuck, I was going to assemble my own 3d printer build and had no idea about the PSU. This is extremely important information that novice users getting into the hobby need to know. Thanks!
I think that grounding the output of the supply and the metal frame of the printer are both pretty important things. Yes, if you get the wires wrong it's a really bad thing. That's not a lot different than getting the wires crossed at the exposed case of the power supply. I would also strongly suggest that a device that will check continuity is dirt cheap compared to the price of a printer. Using one to check your work is a valuable thing if you don't do a lot of wiring (or even if you do ...)
Old video but still great! I'm working my way up to building a Hypercube from scratch, and learning safety from you is the best.
Nice! I always looked at those 'Live' and 'Neutral' markings, and didn't really understand why they were there. Reason being, here in this part of Europe the power plugs and wall sockets are reversible, not keyed, even the earthed ones, so you don't really know in advance whether blue or brown is connected to Live when plugging in. So I didn't really care about what colour was connected to what at either end, as it would not make any difference. I did of course take care to always use the green for earth, though, when it was present. Will try to be more careful about the colour standard from now on! :-)
I think of all the EU, only Switzerland and UK have fully unambiguous L and N. The German plug used across most of Europe goes in either way around, and while French plug also used in Poland doesn't, they couldn't standardize the L and N locations until just a couple years ago, so you can bet on house wiring being randomized.
Not that i have a major gripe with that, because L and N go straight into rectifier, or on old passive supplies into a transformer, so the power supply cannot distinguish them anyway. Protective earth is super important though.
Sockets still have both L and N.
It's that CE certification requries ALL wall socket compatible devices to be AC polarity agnostic.
Fantastic Chuck. I'm so happy you made this video, electrical safety is serious stuff and people need to know. Also I learned a few things about the American wiring code. Thanks 😊
Is the tevo safe with out these upgrades?
Great video Chuck! Safety with 3D printers is overlooked far too often.
just because the power supply is properly enclosed with plastic case the other metal parts on the printer like the slider rods, stepper motor bodies and the metal body of the usb connector if the printer has usb can still be live.
also the use of the cheater plugs are much better than cutting the 3rd prong and there are some cheater plugs that have the ground connected to the neutral prong so you are protected even if you connect to a lamp cord.
the best thing is to have 3 prong cords and outlets
Just Subscribed, This video should be included in every kit GREAT Tutorial, very important indeed.
I bought a Tarantula, it came with a skinny 3-prong cable with the wrong coloured wiring, there was even orange! I threw that cable in the bin and bought a new thicker power cable with the proper blue/brown/green pattern from the electronics store. I even tested that cable to make sure the wiring was correct.
However, it was disappointing to see you implicitly supporting just screwing the bare wires into the screw terminals. They should be done with fork or ring terminals crimped onto the wires.
Great video Chuck, very important points. I'm not sure about that power supply case, at least with standard PLA/ABS materials, but that's just me. My day job kinda keeps me hyper sensitive about those things.
Helpful, thanks!
Can you make a video on cable chains please
Hi Chuck! Great video. Have you finished the STL file for your modified Tarantula power supply case? If so, I'd like to d/l it. Thanks!
I recently bought an Anet A8 printer kit and received a plug with blue, brown and yellow/green wires. Upon continuity testing the cable, I found that BLUE was the HOT wire. BROWN was the NEUTRAL and YELLOW/GREEN was Ground. Which is totally OPPOSITE of what the instructions (and every wiring code that uses those colors would) indicate. If the cord was wires as per the instructions, the PSU might short out or it could lead to a dangerous situation where someone could get a nasty, possibly fatal, shock.
This is awesome content Chuck. Way to spread around some extremely useful and important knowledge!
Very knowledgeable, thanks for the video!
Thank you for this very informative video.
Two of my main concerns are the power supply wiring and the heatbed current. People seem not to care about them.
Thanks for the great job!
And can you put amazon links for the tevo wire and ac switch and fuse I bought a tevo
Great video. Very informative.
Add a voltmeter to the case you printed so you know its always working correctly. Thanks by the way. I have the MAKERFRONT printer.
You're fantastic. Thank you
Worth reccomended!
Hi, I'm using a pc power supply,
I have connected the green and black but after I try to test the motor the power supply fan stop working.
How to solve it?
Thanks
good timing, just got my new 3d printer kit, and its got one of those type of power supply. Thanks for the useful info. :)
My Tarantula came with a 3 prong plug with fork terminals on the end of it. If your cord does not come with terminals (aka just exposed wire) make sure that you crimp a terminal on to prevent heat buildup if the wires were to become a higher gauge and not be correctly rated for the current flowing through them.
I was just looking for information on whether it is a good idea to put on 'fork terminals' as my Tronxy UK plug did not come with any. I did not know about the possible heat buildup without them. Thanks.
Fork terminals are probably the best option, but I believe your next best option would be to wrap the mains wires around the screws and tighten them to secure the wires like you would on a lightswitch or power outlet. Watch a "how to install a lightswitch" video to see how they do it. Good luck, and stay safe. If in doubt, wait. Mains voltages and 12v at 25A are not to be messed with.
Thanks for your help. Important information!
I would add a note to not assume a black/white/green wired cable is actually connected properly to the prongs. Use a continuity checker to verify. I haven't seen one wired wrong but it takes very little time to be sure and mains shocks are not very fun.
Great information. Five dislikes at the time, I guess they don't like being safe.
On some supplies, the ground screw terminal does not even connect to the case.
Thank you so much very helpful
Well done!
My power supply burned out the first time I connected it. The switch on the PS is set correctly to 110V but I heard a small pop when i connected it on for the first time. Can I use an external 12V 30amp power supply and connect it directly the the printer leads?
what about a battery charger that is 12v 30 amps?
Popular books : Out of Print--Limited Availability.
Will there be any issue if I connect the live wire to the neutral terminal in the PSU & neutral wire to the live terminal?
I am wanting to wire up a switchboard so I have my ender 3, raspberry pi, and led light switches on a side mount panel for my desk but how would I wire that up so it's safe?
Plug it all into a power strip with circuit breaker protection.
Hi Chuck, I purchased a brand new A13 printer from ebay (25 Nov 2019) that was supposed to be all wired up and just needed assembly, but when it arrived the cover on the base was was hanging off and the internal wires were disconnected and loose. There was no micro sd card or reader included.
Can you please help, I don't know which is the 240 volt input terminals in the power supply box as there are only black and red wires plus a yellow wire. I live in the UK and the line (is BROWN) and neutral (is BLUE). The power supply box has (COM) markings stamped on the aluminium case and also (v+) there's three of each. The red wire connecting the heated bed was not attached to any supply and there was no spade connection on it it was just hanging loose.
I'm confused and in a pickle Chuck and would very much like your help if possible. Appreciate any help, thanks.
How you been chuck
The wires aren't different colors because it doesn't make a difference. The two terminals go to a transformer and the wiring on each terminal is identical. The designation on the power supply "L" and "N" is arbitrary. In some, they are more accurately labeled "L1" and "L2" as the circuit doesn't have a Neutral. This would confuse Americans so they stick with the L and N designation.
Adding a ground to the case only adds an insifigany amount of safety. The AC does not go far into the case and only to a couple of components. It'd be near impossible for there to be a failure that would cause the AC to come into contact with the case and damage that severe would almost certainly destroy the unit so it would blow the breaker.
Adding a plastic case to a power supply that reduces its cooling is much more likely to cause harm or damage than that presented by some string of improbable failures leading to an electrical shock from the case.
Can the tevo catch on fire ??
I came here to see how to adjust voltage is 12v is enough or 13v better, and he talk about safety bffff!
I love you old man!
That's good Chuck, but we all know you can save time by screwing all the three wires together.
ON an unrelated note, I must have a bad breaker, because it keeps tripping for no reason!
I have two 3d printer one a custom CR10S and the other is ender3 V2
Okay, I am puzzled? On the first diagram...Hospital Grade Electrical Plug it shows Neutral on the right. The next diagram that pops up shows the neutral on the left. HMmm?
www.dummies.com/programming/electronics/components/alternating-current-in-electronics-hot-neutral-and-ground-wires/
This diagram from dummies.com shows the neutral on the left.
One is from the back of the plug and one is from the front of the plug.
I got my ender 5 plus, it came with the Meanwell RSP-500 but it has charge over its whole chassis and i have a 2 point wire connected to it? Should i get one with 3 points, will that solve the case?
Yes. 3 pin grounded cable should correct that.
@@FilamentFriday okay thank you. I will try that.
I know white is white and black is black, what i need is the wiring to the printer
The white wire is not for static dissipation, it is the return wire, It gives a path for the electrical flow. Making a complete circuit. The ground may provide static dissipation. The ground and neutral is normally connected together at the circuit breaker box. This ensures zero electrical potential between the two wires. And as far as the two prong adapter goes that ground ring only provides ground if the ground wire is present. And if the ground wire is present, it is normally a three-pronged outlet. Do not trust it.
Hi Chuck, Why don't you use ferrules+crimp on your conductors? Doesn't cost that much and tremendously reduces risk of fraying and shorts. See for example www.aliexpress.com/item/HSC8-6-6-MINI-TYPE-SELF-ADJUSTABLE-CRIMPING-PLIER-0-25-6mm2-terminals-crimping-tools-multi/32637591682.html
Furthermore - won't that enclosure hinder circulation and pose a fire-hazard should the contents choose to misbehave?
The crimper is 10% the cost of the entire printer lol. Agree 100% about the enclosure.
5% :p and it lasts more than a single printer ;)
It's US $18.60 with shipping. Cheap kits are $160~$200 so ~$180. = ~ 10% :-)
What about Europe? All EU wall sockets are polarity agnostic.
US line voltage is120v and 240v
The line voltage is ~120. The voltage between two lines is ~240.
Hi Chuck. This is a great subject for a video. I built a cheap Chinese delta printer a while ago and I was horrified by the lack of safety in their bare naked power supply. I too printed a full cover for the PSU here www.thingiverse.com/thing:1158973 that has separate ends to make construction (and printing) easier and has a break-away cut-out for a voltage meter if you want one.
Cool. Thanks Chuck.
I always wondered what the american wiring coding was!
Awful plugs though :D
MiggyManMike the UK plugs are far more deadly however in a foot on plug situation. :)
Worse than bloody Lego.
True, but id rather 2/3 minutes or profuse swearing than a trip in an ambulance :p
I have yellow blue red
Warning : This solution is NOT safe! Using 3D printed parts on a power supply is a fire hazard. Same thing as using 3D printed parts on the extruder (like a hotend mount) or the heatbed (like for cable management) or the mainboard (like a case for the board and/or mosfets and/or raspberry pi). Using custom parts printed with common standard filaments like PLA or ABS (like 99% of hobbyists are using) is not recommended because potentially very dangerous. Any plastic parts surrounding high amperage components should be at the very least printed with flame-retardant filament. Although the safest and smartest solution is to use metal or aluminum parts or plastic parts with a UL94 flammability rating.
dont see how thats any safer covering up the power supply its better to fit the power supply to a metal part on the printer like the frame then it can be earthed as well so if your control board pulls too many amps trying to heat a bed it has no hope of heating at least you are safe from shocks as we all should know it only takes 1/4 of an amp to kill the cheapest PCB heat beds can pull 15+ amps
First