Ducati Diavel Oil Change Complete
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 มี.ค. 2012
- This is a basic run-down of what is involved when changing the oil on the new Ducati Diavel. The process is pretty much identical to the 848, 1098, 1198, and Streetfighter engines, but for those who haven't done an oil change on any Ducatis, this will get you going.
Tools needed;
-5mm & 4mm allen drive sockets
-Ratchet
-Torque wrench
-Oil filter socket or other filter tool, 17mm wrench for K&N KN-153.
-Flat head screwdriver and rubber mallet (in case the oil filter is stuck)
-needle nose pliers
-Ducati ThreeBond 1215 (or other high temp liquid gasket)
-funnel (when refilling)
-oil pan
-shop light (optional)
-OIL!
-Bucket or other container for old oil.
Full Synthetic 4T 10w40, 15w50, or any other weight for your local ambient temperatures listed in the manual. I prefer Mobil 1 4T Racing Full Synthetic, Motul 4T Racing Full Synthetic, or Repsol 4T Racing Full Synthetic.
Oil filter is Ducati part # 444.4.003.5A or a K&N KN-153.
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Nice Job! Clear well photographed and easy to understand. No stupid music! thank you, it worked well for my Multistrada.
Bang on mate! Great video with the correct amount of instruction. 1st class
Nicely done very detailed patient step by step ,thank you I can confidently be able to do that ,ime no stranger to wrenching an oil changes on trucks an cars but when it’s your finely tuned Ducati engine it’s nice to watch it done ,thanks dude Will from the UK
just what I was looking for...great job thanks
so perfect educational video for beginner of Diavel !! thx so much
I've been looking for lots of videos this video is the BEST one, great 👏 steps by steps!... with Gratitude.
Just bought a 2012 Diavel Carbon, thank you for this guide!
thank you so much for doing this video - it was super helpful - especially the sump cover portion!!
Great good clear and made it look easy,as is when you have all the gear 👍
Great video. It was extremely helpful. Thank you very much for this.
Thanks a lot man! My 2018 Diavel’s warranty is about to run out, and I figure when it does, I’ll do my own maintenance on it in the same way I do to both of our vehicles. Your video was very informative! Thanks again!!!
As a side note: I appreciate the down to earth straight to the point information! No cursing, swearing, or theatrics! Just plain doing! Kudos to you my man!
I've cursed here and there in various videos, but I try not to make it a normal part of my speech. Insults and curses lose impact when every other word out of a person's mouth is foul.
Regular maintenance is no big deal on the Diavel if you have the time and space. It's just more tedious due to the stuff you have to pull off to access the top of the engine. Thankfully, it's rare to have to do that. Maybe a plug change every 15k or so. Oil, coolant, etc are pretty easy. Hoping to get more time in the garage as the weather warms up to get back into videos.
Happy to help. The weather out here in Maryland is warming up finally, so I'll be doing more videos soon.
Perfect video! Thank you!
Thx man for be as clear as that and give us the torq. required for evrything , no one have been clear as that at the dealershop!! i got a hypermotard but him pretty sur its the same thing cause its the same base for the motor! thx again bro , high five for you!
+sy d Best to verify on ducati.ms or the biggest hyper forum. Some of the specs for the Diavel are very different than the superbikes, like the fork pinch bolts are like 60% lower values than the 1199. If you go to the higher spec the bolts stretch and snap. The sump and filter should be the same across the board, but the drain plug sizes vary and might have different torque values.
We have the full Diavel specs on the Diavel-Forum in PDF format.
Great video. Saved me a lot of time!
Thanks for the feedback. That was my goal.
We’ll done. I’ll be following your excellent instructions.
Thank you very much for this amazing video.
Good job dude!
Excellent video, it reminds me of working with my Uncle he was a world class restoration man, he sounded very much like you, he was a great guy, he should have worn gloves , the solvents back then were strong and he got CLL he thought from years of solvents and oil , gas etc, great video !
Yeah, I'm bad about wearing gloves, but it's rare that I'm working with solvents or getting gas on my skin. Oil and grease hopefully won't kill me anytime soon. Planning to eventually redo all of my how-to's for the Diavel and do a bunch more now that I've got a garage with excellent lighting.
Watching for a 1260 diavel very useful info thanks.
Thank you. Really clear and good work.
When you fill the oil filter with fresh oil, why not lubricate the seal with the clean oil instead of using the dirty oil from the drain tank?
You could use the correct wrench to remove the old filter too. Sorry to pick faults in what is a very useful video.
Love the vid man! I had it serviced last October with an oil change. Took my bike out today and it stalled with oil light coming on. When I looked at the site glass, I see no oil. No leaks in or around my driveway and definitely rear tire is clean. I’m hoping Ducati mechanics didn’t forget to add oil last October
Did you set the bike upright or on the side stand when checking the oil? The bike has to be upright to show the proper level on the sight glass. I'd have to assume the level is indeed low if the light came on though. Let me know what it turns out to be. I've never had that happen. The lack of signs of leakage is especially bizarre. This kind of thing is why I dread dropping my bike off at dealerships unless I know them personally.
I've got the Innovate kit. Might play around with it after I move.
Just being extremely thorough. When I get done with my coming move, I'll have access to a huge garage, lifts, lights, and will be doing a bunch of much better-lit how-to's.
Kudos! All your videos are spot on. I'm a good wrench, been on Beemer GS's for years. This is my first Duc and boy did I pic the right one. I did the TuneBoy with a CW, amazing difference from stock then to a bypass then the TB. So what are your thoughts on dumping the charcoal canister? Keep the vids coming! Thanks for all your help.
Thank you very much
oh i very love it
Could u make more Tutorial Videos like this :D
Hey there, Thanks for the upload. it is really helpful. btw, I just going to ask if you have any ideas of changing the exhaust?
Thank you!
Happy to help.
To get the best performance from your bike you'd want to do an ECU flash using a Tuneboy kit. I ran my bike without any remapping without major issues. The Tuneboy kit makes a night and day difference, though. My bike runs soooo smooth after flashing and loading up one of the included trim tables. A little dyno tuning and it'll be perfect. See my vlog about the Tuneboy and check out the Diavel Forum for a growing list of testimonials. Best of all it'll flash a stock ECU. No need for a Termi ECU.
thanks
thank you
Until Tuneboy finally gets around to releasing a kit, I have to take the bike to the dealership to get the 'idiot light' reset.
Ok.... now we need the procedure for the XDiavel too!! Regards!
Should be similar for virtually any modern Ducati. If I get an X, I'll do another video. They need a more touring-friendly version before I'd consider trading in. No bags and a tiny pillion are a no-go for me at this point.
Dude, Thanks for this great video, but at the end how much oil did you put to get the perfect level? Thanks again for this I dont want to wait till 7500 miles to do my 2nd oil change...
wow the removal of the exhaust surprised me
superbly helpful video, well done!
Do you have any others such as Changing Clutch fluid and radiator flush?
Planning to do those this year now that the weather is finally warming up outside.
The new K&N filters have a nut at the bottom of the filter for easy removal. I replaced my filter with one of these to avoid the pain in the ass of taking off and putting on the exhaust pipes. The Termignoni full exhaust does not come off or on easily as the stock exhaust or the Competition Werks slip on.
Do yourself a favor and get the K&N filter. You can get it at Amazon. If you can't have it shipped by Amazon, one of their third party vendors can ship it to you for the same price. And very nice video by the way kuhlka. Thanks!
mruniv5 That's what I used in the video. I use a torque wrench to put 8ft lbs on it at @23:25. Assuming the sheet metal 'nut' doesn't get rounded off more than it already is, it works great most of the time. I've had plenty on cars that get stuck and then completely round off because they don't use a real solid nut. At that point you pull out the vice grips. At least there's something to grab onto with tools. I've found filter sockets frequently don't fit the rounded knurls of many filters very well and just slip. You'd think companies would put a wee bit more thought into guaranteeing an easy on/off considering this is THE most frequently changed item on vehicles.
If you have a filter without the nut on it should be easy enough to remove with the correct cup type fluted tool. I’ve had some filers so tight that they twist up and deform when trying to remove them. Using a screwdriver as a punch would not work in that scenario. It’s a real nightmare.
You don't have to remove it. I just did it to make the view easier for the video. I usually leave it on.
I can't believe they make it so hard to change the oil. I'm about to go pick up my '15 Diavel now... Around $350+ for the oil change. I might buy these tools and do it myself next year.
It's actually really easy. I just went into a ridiculous amount of detail for this video for people with no DIY experience. If you've got the tools, it's usually under $75 for 10w40 or 15w50 4T full synthetic and filter. There are kits you can buy for the sump cover that use an O-ring instead of the threebond goop. That's what I have on my 1098. Repsol, Motul, and Mobil1 are my favorite oils. K&N for filters.
The sump filter only really needs to be checked every other oil change just to see if there are any bits of metal or gasket material. I check it during my first two or three oil changes during break-in to be sure everything is clean and ready to rip.
TY
If you do the custom aluminum tank, I'm in if you invite. The small stock tank is a little frustrating. Especially since I'm never south of 5 grand fuel is scarce. The notch looks like a good place for the Innovate LC-1 wide band O2 sensors, then we have autotune. 😏
Did he give a reason why? I've never had an issue with either of my Ducatis doing oil changes this way. 1098 has almost 20,000 miles on it. About the same or more on my Speed Triple. The only thing I can think of is that it maybe isn't necessary, but doesn't hurt anything. Saves a little time when topping off because you can just fill up to the sight glass without worrying about how much the filter is going to hold.
Excellent video, real useful when my oil service light just came on and COVID means dealership is closed... Would you happen to know how to reset the warning light once this is complete? Thanks so much for an awesome tuto ;)
You'll need to purchase a Tuneboy kit or take it to a dealer. www.tuneboy.com.au/ducati_mitsubishi/
It lets you completely remap the ECU, add cruise control, and a bunch of other nice features.
its actually a oil staner some motorccle gives staner or oil filter or else both... this i think oil stanner...😀 but ur work is far better then those pro mechanice as they says u yourself can take better care of ur things then others.😀
Hi Sir, question after change oil, do we need to program the system of the Ducati Diavel? im planning to do it on my own.. Thanks
Well, a shop decided to throw away my charcoal canister without asking me, and didn't bother to install longer hoses, so there's that. Won't be going back to that shop. I removed the canister from my 1098 and Speed Triple because it was a big waste of space. Since there is a huge notch specifically for the canister on the Diavel, it's not really worthwhile to eliminate it unless you're going to build a custom tank or have a euro tank coming. My long-term goal is to make a custom aluminum tank...
i want to install a werkes in my diavel. do i need to reset ECU after that? can i do myself or just the dealer?
Great video! I'm getting the same slip on exhaust pipe as you, can you tell me if I need to do anything to the bike in order to use it? Like reprogram the ECU for fuel mapping... Or does it work fine right out of the box?
The bike will feel less corked-up, but a Tuneboy flash with their Termi map makes a world of difference. I can putt down to 2500rpm smoothly after some Tuneboy tuning.
Hi Dan do you know who makes that slip on exhaust shown in the video?
Thank you for the very informative video, although I do have one question regarding my own 2013 Carbon Diavel which I just inherited. The bike is a 2013 but only has 1,900 miles on it; I know it got its first service after the 600 mile break in period but over the past 6 years it hasn't gotten much action, other than starting it up and letting it run about once a month to make sure the battery doesn't die. Recently as I've been riding it, I noticed the oil was looking a bit dark, and was curious if I should change it? How many years can synthetic motorcycle oils last? Thanks.
If it's been sitting for more than a year unchanged I'd change the oil before you ride it. Oils and especially brake fluid can get acidic over time. Keep it on a Battery Tender or other trickle charger to keep the battery topped off. I'm happy with my Battery Tender Lithium battery.
How did you reset the service light?
OMG, your video clocked in at just under 30 mins. Is this what I have to look forward to if I buy one of these? I'm going to look at a Diavel Strada tomorrow, looks like a lot of work to do for an oil change?
Hi. Excuse me. How much torque it needs?
How much of the 4th quart did u use ?
No fault of this video ( I do appreciate your videos) but my 2013 Diavel oil change took 4.5 hours and that's not including the sump work which I had to omit. Apparently the 2013 sump screws are not Hex heads but torx heads so after gurbering-up the first screw with a hex head socket I abandon the sump portion and left it to the Ducati shop to worry about when I get to the 7500 mile service. It seems that the Ducati shop maxed out on tightening the oil filter after I brought it back to the shop for leaking oil after the 600 mile service. I wish I could show a picture of the filter. It looks like a beer can that went thru the garbage disposal after numerous attempts to turn it with a crew driver and hammer . I quit the project three times and was ready to swallow my pride and have it towed to the shop. Success was realized after employing a wood chisel to hammer out a pocket at the silver ring at the very top of the filter that would fit a flat head screw driver and hitting it with a 5 lbs hammer. In summary go with the K&N filter no matter what the Ducati shop tells you ( they strongly recommend against the K&N filter and said it was OK for a filter only in emergency) and check the type of screw used on the sump (hex or torx). BTW you should take off the exhaust pipe and ducati filter wrench is $168.
Gah, condolences for your ordeal. I stripped the head of one of my 1098's sump bolts when I did the first oil change. They were waaaaay over-torqued from the factory and many owners had similar complaints. Had a filter over-tightened by a quickie lube place on an old Honda and went through a similar headache trying to get it off.
Definitely lube the seal on the filter and don't go crazy when tightening down. Makes me groan when dealers tell people aftermarket filters are a bad idea. All of the tear-down comparisons I've seen have proven the K&N premium line filters are as good or better than the rest. All it takes to check is a cut-off wheel and pliers.
How much mileage is this service for?I have been told that the oil sump filter needs removing every 15000 miles by Ducati dealership is that right?Oh the only thing you missed was the exhaust cable connected to a sensor spring which is a bit of a job so i left mine on.
I did my first oil service at 500 miles and another at 1k, checking the sump both times to make sure there weren't any appreciable metal bits in the oil or filter during break-in. After that, I usually change my oil every 3,000 miles because of how hard I ride. If you mostly cruise at low RPMs you could go a lot longer depending on the oil you use. I like full synthetic Mobil 1 and Motul 4T racing oil. Repsol and Amsoil is also good stuff.
I don't remove my exhaust unless the filter is stuck and needs to be removed the hard way. The I check the sump every other oil change just to be safee. It's easy to do and only adds a few minutes. There are aftermarket sump covers that come with an o-ring built-in so you don't have to mess with Threebond.
Hello again, I've done the oil change the exact same way you've done it in the video and it's been flawless up until the part where I remove the Ducati factory oil filter. At 20:50 you can see on your bike that where the oil filter was, in the middle there's a bolt sticking out, sort of like a nipple. The problem is, for me, when I took the filter off, that middle bolt 'nipple' came off with the filter, and now I can't screw the KN filter back on, as there is no bolt for it to screw into. Any ideas? I can't pull the bolt out of the old filter, as it is glued in there pretty good. What do you propose?
Never mind, I took it to a nearby bike shop and they got the nipple out, aka 'bolt union'. Bike is all good now and full of clean oil. Thank you again for the video, until next time!
Arsenic You’ll have to get that removed from the filter and put it back into the bike. I think it has a hex on it to use a wrench. You can hold the filter with a filter wrench or vice. Hope that helps.
Yes definitley reset ECU but it doesnt have to be done immediately.
Great vídeo, which oil did You use ? Mobil 1 full synthetic?
Polin Ese Mobil 1 Racing 4T. 10w-40. 15w-50 if I’m going to be riding for extended periods in areas over 100F. Death Valley was 118F at 10pm when I did an overnight run to Vegas and some parts of SoCal regularly got that hot during the day on the freeway as well. Now that I’m in the Midwest I stick with 10w-40.
@@MotoErgoSum full synthetic
Just a side note. I noticed the "o" ring that you pulled out of the sump filter was note replaced when you put the filter back in. Did you experience any issues due to it missing?
The green o ring on the top of the sump filter was still there. That should only need to be replaced if it’s damaged.
If you’re referring to the black gasket material I took off the filter, that’s from the engine cases being pressed together. It was probably some excess liquid gasket that fell off and got caught by the filter. That’s why it’s important to check it when you change the oil.
My Manual recommends I use 15w-50 can I use 10w-40?
I have a XDIAVEL as well.
It depends on your local climate. 10w40 is generally what the 4T Racing oils come in and it has a lower viscocity for cold starts. 15w50 isn't intended for freezing temperatures because it has high viscocity at low temps. If you live in the desert where it's hot most of the year go with 15w50. If you live somewhere that sees freezing temperatures, stick with 10w40 and maybe switch to 15w50 for the summer if you're doing road trips to really hot areas.
The first number is the cold start viscocity rating, so you could conceivably go with a 10w50 and just make sure to let the bike warm up before taking off.
I have a flyby video of the pipes, but no walk-arounds. Keep in mind the sound of the exhaust changes as you make several changes.
-Stock to CW (sounds tinny and restricted)
-Mid pipe with flapper vs without (sounds choked up with it in)
-Stock fuel map vs fully tuned on a dyno (louder and even more evil after tuning)
The Competition Werkes pipe has a really bassy free-flowing sound. I actually like it more than the Termis.
Hey, I'm looking at buying a ducabike clear clutch cover for my diavel. I can't find any video on how to remove the old one and how to replace the pressure plate. I was wondering if you had any advice or tips I should know before jumping elbow deep into it
+Nick Holland The Ducati Threebond liquid gasket hardens like a rock, so it'll take a lot of tapping with a rubber mallet to get it loose. Try fishing line to saw your way through it. That's the hardest part of the swap. I'd like to pick one up, but haven't budgeted for it. +downshift83 installed one on his bike. Said about the same.
Pressure plate is easy once you get the cover off. You just remove the bolts and swap it out. Just make sure to use the right torque values. The Diavel Forum has a tech section with the PDF that lists out all of the torque values for the bike. Very handy.
+MotoErgoSum the three bond is like the stuff you used in this video right? And Ya that's what I got from him too. But I'll have to look up that pdf, it'd be a handy tool to have for sure! It is expensive though. Hoping maybe by the end of the summer I might be able to pick one up. But all and all I'd have to drain the oil and disassemble the cover "beat off the seal" then reassemble is what I've gathered. Nothing to intense, other then getting the right torque specs. Ya?
Nick Holland
Sounds about right. Use a nylon or plastic scraper to take off any remaining threebond. Something like a bicycle tire lever. Razor blades also work, but they can scratch stuff up if you're not meticulous. Either way, just take your time, make sure all of the bolts are out of the cover before whacking, and think positive.
+MotoErgoSum awesome! I'll take all those steps, I really appreciate the advice thank you! If/when I get a chance to install it I'll try to let you know how it goes. Also, all your mechanic based videos are awesome and extremely helpful keep up the good work!
Do not remove the oil filter with a screw drive as shown, but a Swivel Oil Filter Wrench for like $12.00, yes it's real easy with the Swivel Oil Filter Wrench...
que aceite usa y la marca
Hi I did my oil change on my Diavel and I think I over filled it, Do I check the level with the bike cold? Because if so Oil is filling the glass completely... Or do I check it after I run it for 20 secs?
Bike should be on flat level ground and balanced upright off the side stand. Hot or cold shouldn't matter. It should be between the lines around the middle of the sight glass. If it's over-filled it'll puke out of the breather into the airbox and drip down the back of your engine. I did that once because the ground wasn't level and I didn't realize it.
You can use a MityVac or a piece of hose to suck oil out. I have a cheap MityVac I use exclusively for this purpose in case I (or a friend) over-fills any of their vehicle's fluids.
hello just a question is KN-153 is reusable oil filter??
No. It's sealed and should be replaced when you change the oil.
MotoErgoSum ok thanks
Hi. What amount of oil you put on the bike. I'm asking you why I changed the oil and the metal filter to my Ducati X-Diavel 2016, and entered 3.1 liters. The manual says 4.2 What I did not get out was the other filter, that one I did not touch. Is that oil capacity correct, only 3.1 liters ???.-
The X-Diavel is a totally different engine than my bike. Depending on whether your changed your oil hot, how long you waited for it to drain, making sure to always check the oil level with the bike upright, etc your fill may vary. All that matters is you're checking the level correctly on flat level ground and it's between the high and low marks on the sight glass.
Change the oil in hot, after having done 20 kilometers to the motorcycle, and let it drain all night. What surprises me is that they entered 3.1 liters when the manual says 4.2. It's almost a liter of difference. There will be oil left to go out, will it have remained in the oil radiator, the clutch will carry another oil ??? Only 3.1 liters for a 1262 mc3 engine seems to me a small amount of oil.
Usually they include the capacity of the oil filter as part of the total. 4.2 may be total capacity filled to the brim. If the bike is on level ground and you filled it according to the service manual's procedure and verified oil level after running the bike for ten seconds or so, that's probably correct. I don't have the X so I'm guessing here.
Perfect. Thank you very much for your help. I appreciate it.
@@MotoErgoSum hi, who makes that beautiful exhaust silencer? Where can I buy one? Thank you.
Heck just use a pliers type filter removal wrench.....Walmart for 6-7 bucks
There's maybe a few mm of clearance between the sump and oil filter. Not much fits behind there.
love your vids dude but you need more light. also a bike lift. makes it waaaaaaaay easyer.
+knee dragger (anonyms) I'll get there. Working on getting a house with a 2-car garage first. SoCal home prices are obscene...
Once I get a better location and space I plan to redo all of my how-to's and do a bunch more. Hoping to have a place sorted by the end of the year.
The Speed Triple restoration I'll be working on this winter will be on a lift back in Ohio at my dad's place. He's got an amazing garage. Need to tidy it up, though.
all rigth but whats hapen with oil reminder ligth? how to reset?
tank you.
+Alvaro Ramon Tuneboyyeeeeeeeeeeee. But seriously. Tuneboy lets you do that.
were is tuneboy?? dontknow
Alvaro Ramon
tuneboy.com.au/
It's a PC program with a data cable that lets you completely reflash and tune the stock ECU. I have a short how-to video on my channel for flashing tunes. th-cam.com/video/0ERnBJXiCJA/w-d-xo.html
Alvaro Ramon
You can also add electronic cruise control and map switching with Tuneboy.
Removing the stock exhaust isnt as easy as he shows here but you can access the oil filter even with the exhaust on.
What's hard about two springs and a bolt? You don't need to disconnect the muffler from the Y-pipe.
kuhlka On my 2013 Diavel Cromo there is several things to disconnect. I don't know the correct terms but there is a metal hose like thing that connects to the bottom part of the exhaust and the top part of the exhaust has another hose like pipe was well (maybe a sensor ). It just seems like it would be a headache to remove so I just got some oil filter pliers ($5 from Harbor Frieght) to loosen the oil filter. It was on there pretty tight but it finally came off. I really don't see a reason to remove the exhaust especially if you have a rear wheel stand to give you some extra space.
D Tay I removed it for the video mostly for a better view of the process. I forgot about the stupid flapper valve in the y-pipe. That was one of the first things I removed with the duc.ee. Tuneboy also eliminates the need for it.
My friend at the dealership who is a Master Ducati mechanic trained in Italy says never fill up the filter with oil during changing. Cars yes Ducatis no. Great video though could use more lighting but good indeed!
Have you dug as deep as fork fluid replacement and timing chains on these bikes?
Haven’t messed with the timing chain. Cracked a case on. 1098 and the case cover alone cost like $800 so I don’t screw with the engine anymore. Far cheaper to hand it off to a dealership, IMO.
Fork fluid hasn’t needed to be changed yet. I have the tools when the time comes.
Yes i great video indeed. Though i wish someone would come up with a procedure to turn of that pesky service light. It can only be turned of by a ducati dealer. Who will charge you. Its a form of ducati tax :-(
I recorded a quick Tuneboy flash video last weekend. Need to re-do it with better lighting for the laptop screen. I think one of the more recently Tuneboy updates added an option to reset oil and service indicators. If so I'll post up a video. I'm getting close to the ~15k service.
Ducati sell a oil filter socket to fit a standard ratchet!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Remove only filter , sump plug & oil - dont forget to replace(optional) copper washer on sump plug.
THATS IT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
By all means, if you want to spend the money on specialty tools and Ducati branded filters, have at it. The vast majority of people who work on their own bikes aren't going to do that for a simple oil change.
That socket is up around $80 and doesn't fit less expensive (but equal quality) aftermarket filters that aren't exactly the same size as stock. I have filter sockets. They rarely work on my bikes and cars because the knurling on the filters is often too rounded to get a good grip.
When I do an oil change without the camera, it takes me about five minutes and I don't remove the exhaust. I try to make my how-to's for people who may have never attempted what I'm demonstrating, so they tend to go into a lot more detail than necessary. That's why a 5-minute job turns into a half hour video.
I was thinking about buying the Ducati filter socket when I got the bike. They wanted almost $100 for it at the dealership. K&N filters are as good or better if you tear them apart.
Thanks for the tips, but I know all of that. If I wanted to make an hour long oil change video covering every anal-retentive detail (like draining oil hot vs cold) people would just complain that I'm being too verbose. I already got that complaint about the 'full' oil change video that was almost a half hour long.
The only time removing the sump filter makes any sense if every couple oil changes to see if there are any particulates. It was worthwhile for my first and second oil change because there were a few bits of liquid gasket and a few tiny metal shavings (and I wanted to show how to do it for the video). Otherwise, I almost never bother taking it out. In the 20k miles I've had my 1098 it's almost always been totally clean.
I don't use stands when doing oil changes, and it's best to use a level to make sure the floor is flat when you're checking oil level. If the floor is angled forward or backward a tiny bit the oil level can change by a few mm or more. With a stand it could be at the right level but look a quart low.
I'll grant you, anyone who isn't confident in what they're doing should probably just hire a mechanic.
Btw, you can reuse crush washers a few times if you anneal them with a torch. Just use a carburizing flame (mostly acetylene) to cover one side of the washer in soot, then slowly heat it up with a neutral flame until the soot disappears. Let it cool off and the metal will be soft and pliable again.
Euro cycle of Reno just quoted me 500 bucks for this....
For an oil change?!
Does the quote include expensive cigars as part of the 'shop materials' and an extra 3 hours labor for smoke breaks?
@@MotoErgoSum It also comes with gold flakes in the oil and a weekend getaway for suckers to Cancun....
Cancun Ohio.....