I just bought a 1198sp so I enjoy your videos, thanks for taking the time. My last three motorcycles were TZ250’s so this is quite a bit different-still a v-twin though. Ever get up to Mooresville NC?
Not that it’s a particularly hard job, it’s great just to confirm a few things and refresh the old memory bank around the bits and pieces. Good to know about the oil, wish I rewatched this video before deliberating and reading tons of forums about what oil to put in this machine. Ended up ordering motul v300 15w-50. It’s pretty hot all year round where I live. Thanks for the video
Oil topics on the interwebs are insane. Other than clutch slipping from using the wrong synthetic oil, I have never seen a regularly maintained engine have an oil related failure. Most engine failures are problems with the wheelie bearings starving for oil. But those owners will always point blame at something else. Not abuse of the machine.
It is OK for a Ducati with a dry clutch. Do not put car oil in a bike with a wet clutch unless you like the disks to slip. If you watch the video, I am using High Mileage car oil. The additives it has will not allow the wet clutches to slip.
Removing my screen for the first time at 8k, 3rd oil change 1098S. I had 1 smallll piece of metal, grain of sand, nothing on the drain plug. Im guessing that could be normal. There was some gasket material but that's all. Oil as expected was very clean but that's how i treat all my bikes. 1500 mile oil changes
I have seen others recommended you replace the crush washer on the oil drain plug. Do you think that’s necessary? I didn’t notice you replacing it in this video. Thanks!
If you are not just tightening the plug or actually using a torque wrench on the plug, you can get many uses out of a crush washer. IF you are ham fisted and tighten down the plug as tight as humanly possible, you might be replacing it more often. I get more than five oil changes before I have to cut the crush washer off of the plug.
I don't. It is a fairly easy process. How do you know your plugs are bad? I replaced mine at 48K miles and they looked perfect and could have probably gone to 100K. I will do a video on the next superbike I get.
Liked the smack talk during the video...torque specs...oil filter brand...but then he puts that oil in 🤣🤣😂 what if the guy before him put oem ducati oil in but put a non ducati filter on it 🧐🤔😆 nun the less good video! haha
I beleive in using OEM parts on most machines. As for oil, I started using Mobil 1 10w-40 "High Mileage" about 20 years ago in every bike I have owned. I am sure that is well over 200,000 miles of mountain twisty road riding with an oil change every 3K miles. The 2009 1198 in this video is still fine with about 40K miles on it but remember, 1198 has a dry clutch, so any oil is fine. My 2008 848 has 70K miles and has had Mibile 1 High Mileage since 3K miles. It pulls as hard today as it did in 2008. Whatever additive Mobil 1 puts in the "High Mileage" oil does not affect the clutch disk like regular synthetic car oils do. But you do you. If you like paying up for motorcycle specific oil, do it. It is your bike and your money. Just use an OEM oil filter. Bike Master sucks and K&N can leak if installed improperly.
I know this isn't completely related but what air filter do you use for a Ducati 848 evo. I am told not to use k&n filter or similar ones that has to be oiled. I am also told that u need to replace oem one for one like the k&n that has rubber washers on the sides to keep out debris. So what should I use since everything I have found needs oil? Should I just stick to oem?
I too would not use K&N. I personally use the OEM Race/Performance filter. I found a good deal on a bunch of them many years ago. I have been using them for 56K miles so far.
Hello, I know the manual doesn't not say anything about the oil cooler but looking at it, it seems to catch old oil based on the high position of its drain, do you think it should also be drained at each oil change?
I’ve noticed that gas will leak from the cap when I go fill it up. I’m not over filling it at all, but I do notice that it will leak from the cap when I accelerate fast just after filling up. I’ve heard deleting the EVAP canister because of it becoming clogged can solve this issue, you ever encounter this problem? Thanks for the help!
Make sure the drain hole in the tank under the gas cap is clear. Shoot compressed air in the hole. There is a hose which comes out of the bottom of the tank which gas should be flowing from. Make sure the rubber breather on the cap is clean.
14mm deep well socket. To protect the threads, Reinstall with a piece of fuel line pushed over the top of the plug, then finish tightening it down with a 14mm deep well socket. Enchufe de pozo profundo de 14mm. Para proteger los hilos, vuelva a instalar con un trozo de línea de combustible empujado sobre la parte superior del tapón, luego termine de apretarlo con un receptáculo de pozo de 14 mm de profundidad.
Yeah I made the mistake one time of only having the rear stand on so it wasn't level and then I over filled it. I surprised at how much it raised in the sight glass when I dropped it back down.....live and learn.
What mileage did your 848 have when you started using the Mobile 1 High Mileage? Also what kind of suction tool is that you are using when doing the Brake fluid change?
dear misters. I saw your videos and really help me for the manitenance of my ducati 848 evo. but I have two questions:1.- do you have a procedure or sugestion to erase the"service" message in the lcd display? 2.- do you know if this message has a repercution in the motorcycle performance?... Thanks a lot... Uriel mexico city.
My drain plug is leaking on my 848 evo corse, my guess is because i used the same crush washer. Is that particular crush washer something I can get from am auto parts store or do i need to order from ducati?
Try taking it off and flipping it over, then torque it down. I find the ones from Ducati work the best. They are .39 at Jacksonville Ducati website but the shipping is 10.00 If you were close to Murphy, NC - I would hook you up. I bought enough to get the cost down to .60. But I change the oil on a lot of Ducati's. So having extra parts around is just convenient. You should expect to pay 3.00 at your local Ducati dealer. ALUMINIUM GASKET TH.1,5 Part Number: 852.5.026.1A
No. I was a mechanic and now I help out my friends to keep them out of the stealerships. Unfortunately, that hurts dealerships, but I don't buy new bikes so I have no use for their overpricing of everything.
Not at all. You are not racing the bike, so more oil might prove to be better for the bike. Better lubrication if anything. I always fill my bikes right to the top and have never had an issue.
@@RideWNC Solid advice to follow in the future, but what done is done. It's real easy to scrape this plate at speed bumps... no one else experience this?
@@bubupianisimo If you lowered the bike maybe. If those screws are scraped and you are hitting speed bumps, then we can only image what your lower fairings must look like. Maybe sell it and buy a Multistrada to get over the speed bumps on your way to Starbucks.
@@pipo655scu7 Yep. Light coat of Permatex gasket maker on the edge of the cover then bolt it back on. This is a good time to replace the screws. If the OEM screws don't round out this time, they will the next. Best to replace them with steel.
Why would you insist that a DIYer should fork out for a OEM filter but not bother using the factory torque settings? plenty of good quality and better aftermarket filters out there. I totally agree with not using the really cheap ones though, disaster waiting to happen.
Torque values are important, but not always necessary. For anyone working on their own bike you can tighten bolts without destroying them. There is not need to tighten a bolt as tight as you can possibly get it was my point. If torquing bolts is important to you, by all means break out the wrench. My videos are just a handy guide to allow DIYers see that working on their bike is not that difficult. As for filters... This argument could go on like choice of oil. I surprised you didn't make a negative comment about the oil I used.
MikeE RideWNC I just find getting those kind of bolts torqued correctly is important as you could dump your whole quantity of engine oil over your rear wheel if you were off by enough. Your point about the oil is correct, dry clutch bikes don't usually need the same oil with slip modifiers to keep the clutch plates happy. My BMW rt is the same story, clutch and engine are separate so no need to buy into the bike only oil marketing as long as it's a good oil that meets the specs.
@@HarryLyster ---> Torquing bolts serves two purposes... One, so that you don't overtighten and bugger up the threads. Two, so that all bolts are at equal torque to provide equal pressure on the part at all points... With an oil plug, we are not attaching another part that needs to be at equal torque all the way round. It's 'just' a plug. Snugging up is all it needs. An oil plug can be quite loose and not fall out.
love the 100 torque spec on the drain plug lol! this is the exact reason im watching your video is 2021 because the drain plug was about 100 ft-lbs.
Thank you for a clear video, and very informative advice!
Nice work and video, very explicatory!!!!
I just bought a 1198sp so I enjoy your videos, thanks for taking the time. My last three motorcycles were TZ250’s so this is quite a bit different-still a v-twin though. Ever get up to Mooresville NC?
Not that it’s a particularly hard job, it’s great just to confirm a few things and refresh the old memory bank around the bits and pieces.
Good to know about the oil, wish I rewatched this video before deliberating and reading tons of forums about what oil to put in this machine. Ended up ordering motul v300 15w-50. It’s pretty hot all year round where I live.
Thanks for the video
Oil topics on the interwebs are insane. Other than clutch slipping from using the wrong synthetic oil, I have never seen a regularly maintained engine have an oil related failure. Most engine failures are problems with the wheelie bearings starving for oil. But those owners will always point blame at something else. Not abuse of the machine.
great video man
Ive always thought the car oil thing was a myth. Thanks for the video!
It is OK for a Ducati with a dry clutch. Do not put car oil in a bike with a wet clutch unless you like the disks to slip.
If you watch the video, I am using High Mileage car oil. The additives it has will not allow the wet clutches to slip.
Awesome. Thanks for the feedback!
Great video thank you
You tell em!! You’re on Duca now
Removing my screen for the first time at 8k, 3rd oil change 1098S. I had 1 smallll piece of metal, grain of sand, nothing on the drain plug. Im guessing that could be normal. There was some gasket material but that's all. Oil as expected was very clean but that's how i treat all my bikes. 1500 mile oil changes
0:54 Right-on bratha... 👍
Thanks for making these informative videos 👍🏻
I have seen others recommended you replace the crush washer on the oil drain plug. Do you think that’s necessary? I didn’t notice you replacing it in this video. Thanks!
If you are not just tightening the plug or actually using a torque wrench on the plug, you can get many uses out of a crush washer. IF you are ham fisted and tighten down the plug as tight as humanly possible, you might be replacing it more often. I get more than five oil changes before I have to cut the crush washer off of the plug.
Hi Mike, I enjoy your video's mate. very easy to watch and helpful. Do you have a video for a spark plug change for a Ducati 848?
I don't. It is a fairly easy process. How do you know your plugs are bad? I replaced mine at 48K miles and they looked perfect and could have probably gone to 100K. I will do a video on the next superbike I get.
Liked the smack talk during the video...torque specs...oil filter brand...but then he puts that oil in 🤣🤣😂 what if the guy before him put oem ducati oil in but put a non ducati filter on it 🧐🤔😆 nun the less good video! haha
I beleive in using OEM parts on most machines. As for oil, I started using Mobil 1 10w-40 "High Mileage" about 20 years ago in every bike I have owned. I am sure that is well over 200,000 miles of mountain twisty road riding with an oil change every 3K miles. The 2009 1198 in this video is still fine with about 40K miles on it but remember, 1198 has a dry clutch, so any oil is fine. My 2008 848 has 70K miles and has had Mibile 1 High Mileage since 3K miles. It pulls as hard today as it did in 2008. Whatever additive Mobil 1 puts in the "High Mileage" oil does not affect the clutch disk like regular synthetic car oils do. But you do you. If you like paying up for motorcycle specific oil, do it. It is your bike and your money. Just use an OEM oil filter. Bike Master sucks and K&N can leak if installed improperly.
I know this isn't completely related but what air filter do you use for a Ducati 848 evo. I am told not to use k&n filter or similar ones that has to be oiled. I am also told that u need to replace oem one for one like the k&n that has rubber washers on the sides to keep out debris. So what should I use since everything I have found needs oil? Should I just stick to oem?
I too would not use K&N.
I personally use the OEM Race/Performance filter. I found a good deal on a bunch of them many years ago.
I have been using them for 56K miles so far.
nice job with that rtv...ahem
Thanks... I barely remember doing this 1198.
Hello,
I know the manual doesn't not say anything about the oil cooler but looking at it, it seems to catch old oil based on the high position of its drain, do you think it should also be drained at each oil change?
Nope. Not enough oil in there to bother with.
I’ve noticed that gas will leak from the cap when I go fill it up. I’m not over filling it at all, but I do notice that it will leak from the cap when I accelerate fast just after filling up. I’ve heard deleting the EVAP canister because of it becoming clogged can solve this issue, you ever encounter this problem? Thanks for the help!
Make sure the drain hole in the tank under the gas cap is clear. Shoot compressed air in the hole. There is a hose which comes out of the bottom of the tank which gas should be flowing from. Make sure the rubber breather on the cap is clean.
Hola, ayuda porfavor. Que tipo de dado utilizas para quitar las bujias?
14mm deep well socket. To protect the threads, Reinstall with a piece of fuel line pushed over the top of the plug, then finish tightening it down with a 14mm deep well socket.
Enchufe de pozo profundo de 14mm. Para proteger los hilos, vuelva a instalar con un trozo de línea de combustible empujado sobre la parte superior del tapón, luego termine de apretarlo con un receptáculo de pozo de 14 mm de profundidad.
Did you have the front tire on a stand as well so the bike was level, or just the Pit Bull on the rear?
Yeah. Pitbull front and rear. I think I have more Pitbull stands than motorcycles.
Yeah I made the mistake one time of only having the rear stand on so it wasn't level and then I over filled it. I surprised at how much it raised in the sight glass when I dropped it back down.....live and learn.
What mileage did your 848 have when you started using the Mobile 1 High Mileage? Also what kind of suction tool is that you are using when doing the Brake fluid change?
3K miles. 63K miles now.
dear misters.
I saw your videos and really help me for the manitenance of my ducati 848 evo. but I have two questions:1.- do you have a procedure or sugestion to erase the"service" message in the lcd display? 2.- do you know if this message has a repercution in the motorcycle performance?... Thanks a lot... Uriel
mexico city.
Unfortunately - The easiest way is take it to the dealer. With that said, mine has been there for the last 25K miles.
It is not a big deal.
MikeE RideWNC did you get a valve job done?
How do you dispose of your paper towels with chemicals on them? Why not shop rags?
I throw them in the trash and they go to the land fill.
My drain plug is leaking on my 848 evo corse, my guess is because i used the same crush washer. Is that particular crush washer something I can get from am auto parts store or do i need to order from ducati?
Try taking it off and flipping it over, then torque it down.
I find the ones from Ducati work the best. They are .39 at Jacksonville Ducati website but the shipping is 10.00
If you were close to Murphy, NC - I would hook you up. I bought enough to get the cost down to .60. But I change the oil on a lot of Ducati's. So having extra parts around is just convenient.
You should expect to pay 3.00 at your local Ducati dealer.
ALUMINIUM GASKET TH.1,5 Part Number: 852.5.026.1A
go to a ducati dealer they will just give you one or charge a dollar
Do you run a shop for DUCs? If so where at?
No. I was a mechanic and now I help out my friends to keep them out of the stealerships. Unfortunately, that hurts dealerships, but I don't buy new bikes so I have no use for their overpricing of everything.
Hey Mike!
I have the oil right at the hight mark on a 2016 multi, is that bad?
Not at all. You are not racing the bike, so more oil might prove to be better for the bike. Better lubrication if anything. I always fill my bikes right to the top and have never had an issue.
@@RideWNC thanks sir!!!
Is this the same for a ducati streetfighter 848? Tks
Yep... Pretty much.
@@RideWNC thanks brother. Awesome videos
note: recently I make the oil and oil filter change.
anyone else bolt heads scraped against the ground and can't get them off? What can I do?
Stop Crashing?
@@RideWNC Solid advice to follow in the future, but what done is done. It's real easy to scrape this plate at speed bumps... no one else experience this?
@@bubupianisimo If you lowered the bike maybe. If those screws are scraped and you are hitting speed bumps, then we can only image what your lower fairings must look like. Maybe sell it and buy a Multistrada to get over the speed bumps on your way to Starbucks.
Hello there where I can buy the gauze filter for my 2016 Multistrada pikes peak? Thanks!
Every Ducati dealership. Why? That thing should last forever. Just clean it and put it back in.
@@RideWNC oh I thought I needed to replace it. Great, just pull clean and install back?
@@pipo655scu7 Yep. Light coat of Permatex gasket maker on the edge of the cover then bolt it back on. This is a good time to replace the screws. If the OEM screws don't round out this time, they will the next. Best to replace them with steel.
@@RideWNC Thank you so much for the advice! I'll have you now on speed dial 🤣😎
@@RideWNC The Permatex, any particular kind, there are few?
What the hell does it do the Guase filter
Catches the metal chunks. Twnety years ago with the flaking rockers the filter would be full.
Hyosung lol
Why would you insist that a DIYer should fork out for a OEM filter but not bother using the factory torque settings? plenty of good quality and better aftermarket filters out there. I totally agree with not using the really cheap ones though, disaster waiting to happen.
Torque values are important, but not always necessary. For anyone working on their own bike you can tighten bolts without destroying them. There is not need to tighten a bolt as tight as you can possibly get it was my point. If torquing bolts is important to you, by all means break out the wrench.
My videos are just a handy guide to allow DIYers see that working on their bike is not that difficult.
As for filters... This argument could go on like choice of oil. I surprised you didn't make a negative comment about the oil I used.
MikeE RideWNC I just find getting those kind of bolts torqued correctly is important as you could dump your whole quantity of engine oil over your rear wheel if you were off by enough. Your point about the oil is correct, dry clutch bikes don't usually need the same oil with slip modifiers to keep the clutch plates happy.
My BMW rt is the same story, clutch and engine are separate so no need to buy into the bike only oil marketing as long as it's a good oil that meets the specs.
@@HarryLyster ---> Torquing bolts serves two purposes... One, so that you don't overtighten and bugger up the threads. Two, so that all bolts are at equal torque to provide equal pressure on the part at all points...
With an oil plug, we are not attaching another part that needs to be at equal torque all the way round. It's 'just' a plug. Snugging up is all it needs. An oil plug can be quite loose and not fall out.
K/N oil filters are perfectly fine haha...